2014: A Norwegian Odyssey, day four: moats and goats
We packed up our wet tent, forgot our towel hanging on a tree and headed south to Drobak, a town so apparently obscure that Edie had never heard of it. It took us a while, but we finally made our way there, to hit the first of our post-Oslo attractions, the Oscarsborg Fortress. Now that link shows something very vital, something that was not mentioned in the Wikivoyage article I had read.
Oscarbsborg is on a fucking island.
We just followed the signs to a parking area. Any helpful ferry info (or the fact that you needed to take a ferry) had been ripped away from the sign. The parking prices, however, were posted clearly. There was a small path heading away from the parking lot, so we climbed the hill away from the parking area and saw something concrete jutting out of the hillside.
Hey, what's that across the water?
Son. Of. A. Bitch.
We had already paid for two hours of parking and spent half of it climbing this fucking hill to look at some hoboriffic abandoned fortifications.
Fuck this town.
Next, we drove further south to Fredrikstad and had some pizza (and paid again for needless parking, as the pizza place had its own free parking.)
Next, we got to do a bit of my favorite kind of exploring.
Unsupervised.
We could see Kongsten fort from the campground parking lot, so after we paid for a spot, we headed headed back there.
It was a small fort, but the walls were high and sheer.
Many of the windows were open, but they were on a short chain. It was dark inside, and I couldn't really see, so I just stuck my hand in and took photos with my phone.
Something about Nazis.
The inner fort.
Piia, sticking her head into a dark hole in the wall.
A map of the whole thing.
And a few more pics.
Me sitting on the edge of a bastion, maybe 40 feet off the ground. Just as Piia was about to take the picture, I covered up my crack with my army bag. You're welcome.
We headed out of the fort via the back entrance.
And that's when we found the doorway into darkness. Hey, nothing bad could ever happen in a place like that, right?
Mostly it was just crumbling bricks and earth.
Oh, and spiders. DOZENS OF THEM. And they were big, too. Two inches across at least.
Piia was all like, "Run away!" and she fled. I checked out the place a little while longer and then let the spiders get back to their business of consuming unwary hobbitses.
That pizza wasn't sitting too well with the missus, so we set up her tent, and I wandered (read: drove) down to Old Fredrikstad alone, which was a fortified city. Here's a map.
That bit down in the lower right hand corner is the Kongsten fort we had just walked through.
The Old City, like most of southern Norway it seemed, was on winter hours already, even though guys, I'm totally wearing a t-shirt and shorts over here. The museum was closed, but I had a nice quiet walk through the inside and around the walls.
From atop the ramparts, I could see another fortress across the river, but Edie had no idea what I was talking about, and I couldn't find directions to get there. Someday, mysterious, round fortress. Someday.
One of the neater things about Old Fredrikstad is the placement of dozens of cannons in strategic positions all over the city.
There's some nice architecture around the Old Town.
A bronzed king.
I headed outside the fortified hill, just to see what was out there.
And that's when I saw that Fredrikstad is surrounded by a freakin' moat. I had previously thought it was just a river.
The goats you've all been wondering about.
S'more cannons.
When Piia was feeling better, we headed back into the Old City for a picnic dinner, where traffic (read: us) was interrupted by marching soldiers. And man, the guy at the lead gave us the stinkeye.
Next time, we visit other cities with Ø in their names, travel to the World's End, and find a nice surprise along the way.
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Moskenesværingen som senket Blücher.
«Enten blir jeg stilt for krigsrett, eller så blir jeg krigshelt. Fyr!»
Slik ga Birger Eriksen ordre om å skyte mot «Blücher» den 9. april 1940, litt etter klokken 4 om morgenen. Birger Eriksen var kommandant på Oscarsborg Festning, midt i skipsleia inn til hovedstaden. Avgjørelsen om å skyte var vanskelig å ta, siden verken Norge eller Tyskland offisielt hadde erklært krig mot hverandre da krigsskipene kom opp Oslofjorden. Eriksen hadde heller ikke mulighet til å konferere med noen andre om hva han skulle gjøre i denne situasjonen.
Skuddene ble rettet mot det første skipet som nærmet seg. «Blücher» fikk så store skader av dette angrepet at den sank. Flere hundre mennesker omkom. De fiendtlige skipene valgte å avbryte ferden mot Oslo inntil Birger Eriksen oppga Oscarsborg 10. april klokken 09.00.
Det tyske angrepet på hovedstaden var blitt 30 timer. Dette skal være en viktig årsak til at det ble mulig for kongen, regjeringen og stortinget å forlate hovedstaden.
Birger Eriksen er en av de mest kjente nordlendingene fra krigshistorien.
En bit av hans historie finnes hos Arkiv i Nordland.
English version:
"Either I will be decorated, or I will be court-martialed. Fire!"
Those were the words Birger Eriksen spoke as he gave to order to open fire against the German heavy cruiser "Blücher" in the morning og april 9th 1940. Birger Eriksen was the commander at Oscarsborg Fortress and had to take the desicion wether to shoot or not all by himself. At that time neither Norway nor Germany had declared war against the other and he
"Blücher" sank, killing hundreds, but also delayed the attack on the norwegian capital by 30 hours. The delay gave the Norwegian royal family, government and parliament time to escape the invading forces.
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Back to Bakke - første etappe
Back to Bakke – første etappe
Helt siden jeg startet rehabilteringsoppholdet mitt på Bakke utenfor Halden i mai i år, har jeg lekt med tanken på å ta båten min til Bakke den siste uka av oppholdet slik at jeg kunne ta båten hjem igjen etter endt opphold. Det hsr ikke gått helt som planlagt, men nå er jeg endelig på vei til Bakke via sjøveien! (more…)
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