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Electric Trolling Motor Maintenance Tips- You Need to Know

The electric trolling motor is among the best parts of technology in game fishing now.  Although comparatively low-maintenance in layout, these motors do need attention to make sure they're working correctly.  Should you fail to carry out normal checks, then you can end up temporarily without a engine, and coughing up money for repairs or even a new version.

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Exterior Cleaning:

Maintaining your engine free of weeds and dirt can allow it to run smoothly. When cleansing your automobile, make sure it's properly fastened to your ship or if it is off the ship, to a workbench to stop it from falling out.  At this moment, tighten any loose bolts and screws onto a bow-mount motor.

Remove any dirt trapped round the device's moving parts. When the device is dry, then inspect the shaft for signs of damage or wear.  Most engine shafts are flexible, sliding up and down to restrain propeller thickness.  As time passes, the rotating shaft can adhere.  To cure this, then apply a mild amount of Armour all into the composite shaft using a rag to restore smooth functioning.

You will want to analyze the advantages of your prop to guarantee they're not ruined.   Hard surfaces may harm props.  For small nicks and scrapes, use fine grained sandpaper to smooth rough edges to minimize disturbance on prop operation.

Joe Brown, brand director of Minn Kota Motors, clarifies,"Prop wearchips and dings can considerably influence the functioning of the trolling motor"

For important prop harm, you will probably have to replace the propeller.  Common sense will stop major prop damage.  Brown counsels,"The engine thickness ought to be corrected for the requirements to prevent impact with the ground, and attention ought to be taken to prevent submerged obstacles."

"In acute, heavy duty environments, we urge inspection after every use.  The prop nut ought to be assessed before each use to be certain that it's secure.   In extreme instances, a pocket or other cutting tool may be employed with caution"

Eliminate weeds and fishing line tangled on the engine's drive hammer and shaft to reduce damage to the engine's internal parts.

Begin with eliminating your prop, after the design of your owner's guide and carefully keep all loose components, like the washer, prop nut and push pin, for simple reassembly. Inspect the drive shaft and then remove any weeds or fishing line which might have tangled round the device.  You ought to do this test a few times every season. Unattended to these dangers will wear , and finally split, the seals of your engine causing substantial damage to the inner components.  Eliminate the tangles as far as you possibly can with your palms.  A flat head screwdriver or tweezers may be used to operate weeds or line free, but you should be careful to not split the rubber seal enclosing the drive pin.

As soon as you've cleaned your apparatus and mended any prop harm, then reassemble the device after the schematic in your owner's guide.  Be careful when trimming the prop nut and don't over tighten it because this may cause your automobile to malfunction.  Minn Quota's manual indicates a quarter-turn past cozy.

Electrical Part Cleaning:

It is also a fantastic idea to routinely inspect the electric wiring and battery to your trolling motor vehicle.  Replace worn or frayed wiring in addition to unraveling tape.  Additionally, inspect all connections, making certain they're clean from corrosion and correctly fastened before every use.  Brown urges that the engine be disconnected from the power supply when not being used.  Make sure that all of the wiring is hidden and protected on your ship.  Vibrations due to the boat's outboard and water conditions could lead to links to loosen; confirm all crucial straps, nuts and screws are snug.

Failing to maintain your battery charged will restrict its capacity to maintain a complete charge and decrease its total lifespan.  Inspect your terminals and wash them using a battery cable brush accessible at marinas or hardware shops.  

Maintaining them in proper functioning order requires minimum effort, but dismissing basic maintenance may result in harm and repair or replacement expenditures.  Adhere to the aforementioned maintenance strategies for worry-free trolling engine performance.  Specific question on maintenance of Minn Iota Motors could be instructed to its technical support division at 800-227-6433.

More Topic: Tips and Tactics for Trolling in Wind and Waves

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How to Wire a Trolling Motor - Tips and Tricks from a Pro

Editor's Note: Erik Jon describes how to cable a trolling motor in this thorough review of the procedure that he used to correct a electrical issue on his ship.

 The fantastic thing is that more often than not the fault is not with the pricey trolling engine , but with the cheap wiring that attracts it electricity.

I ran to only that scenario a month when my automobile stopped functioning.  

After looking everything over I discovered quite a lot of rust on the plug in power coming in contact with the marine environment, and so I chose to start from scratch and then replace everything.  I started out by creating some fresh battery wires.

Because I altered the normal battery wires in the ship using a heavier gauge I needed to find an adapter which would take the larger wires to the plug.  

To reduce water intrusion to the plug and adapter assembly, I packaged everything packed with Marine Electronics Grease.  This dirt is non-conductive so don't hesitate to use it generously.

I'd planned to take some pictures of the way I pulled the cables throughout the ship but it was a complete nightmare and that I my palms have been bleeding too profusely to function on the camera.  I'm kind of kidding but it was hard.  If you are ever replacing cables, I suggest testing to determine whether they pull more readily from 1 side or another.  As soon as you discover the course of least resistance, tape the older wires and wires together using duct tape, then use a good deal but try to not let it build up too thick.  Then spray down the tape with WD-40 or anything you have handy and find a buddy to push the cables though you pull lightly from the opposite end.

When the cables were I attached them into the plug.  To spare yourself from doing this twice (I speak from experience) be certain the locking nut which retains the plug is put over the wires until you push them through the hole on your deck.On the opposite end, the negative cable goes into the battery and the power cable attaches into some 60-amp breaker.

While this breaker is there to trip when there is a problem with your electricity or engine, in addition, it functions as a on/off switch to your power.One of those motives I'd rust issues was since my plug at the bow was obtaining electricity even when I was not using my trolling motor.   Moving forward, I'll continue to keep the breaker closed off unless I'm actively using the trolling motor.

Which should prolong the life span of my cables significantly and can stop a flame hazard.Regarding power, you are likely to have to ensure your motor has the necessary voltage.  Trolling motors operate on 12, 24 or 36 volts and also to receive 24 or 36 you are likely to have to conduct your batteries in series.  This diagram demonstrates how a 36 volt trolling motor could be put up. To get a 24 volt such as mine, you would only remove one of those batteries and to get a 12 volt system you would remove two.  It is really pretty straightforward.

You are going to want a way to keep those batteries charged, which means you will want to put in a charger it is possible to plug in once the ship isn't being used.  I've a Pro Sport 20 that is a 3 bank charger which lets me control both trolling motor batteries along with my home battery.  To set this up you simply attach the negative and positive cables to each of these batteries that you would like to bill. Though the trolling motor batteries are wired together they all want their own charger lead.The last measure is rigging the man end of the plug into a trolling motor.

These plugs include space for 3 wires, and therefore are numbered, so you would like to be certain if you utilized holes 1 and two in the female end, you utilize holes 1 and two on the man end too.  The plug is at a really moist part of my ship, so I filled up on the electric grease and coated everything metal prior to sliding the cover above it.wire a trolling motorIf you're receiving corrosion because of power and water, these plugs is going to be the first obvious signs.  If some of these begin to appear green, you have got a problem.wire-trolling-motorPower could be assessed at the plug in using a volt meter.

If you are obtaining a negative amount, simply swap the black and red probes.  If everything is functioning correctly and your batteries are charged, you need to find a reading marginally over the voltage rating.  Any reduced and there's a issue.  Among the most frequent issues is that a connection on a battery powered terminal, so check that first.

More Topic: Tips and Tactics for Trolling in Wind and Waves 

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Tips and Tactics for Trolling in Wind and Waves

Dealing with powerful winds and massive waves while trolling is an inevitable truth of fishing, particularly when fishing around the Great Lakes, enormous reservoirs, or large inland lakes.  It may be frustrating to even the most enthusiastic angler when fishing through these less-than-desirable states as bobbing in waves hastens boat management, and lure appropriate presentation is challenging to realize.

Unless you've got the ideal equipment and go with the stream, that's.

 First, as I discuss trolling in waves and wind, please realize I'm not speaking about sticking it out when storms abruptly brew, or trying to fish in waters that are dangerous, which in case anglers shouldn't be about the water.  

Tips and Tactics:

shadow :             

The writer keeps his hands on the hands of his Mercury kicker in any way times when trolling in amongst big waves.  From here he sees the display of his Lowrance sonar and GPS mounted on the dashboard of the Lund.  David A. Rose photographs

With this stated, I have needed to fish some fairly rough waters throughout my 20-plus years as an expert championship anger.  All throughout the USA, by the giant reservoirs of the West, to people from the southeast, to each of the Great Lakes and Lake St. Clare and enormous Canadian waterways, I've gathered and gathered amongst heavy waves in all.

During championships, grabbing walleye was crucial.  Regardless of where on earth I had been fishing, the lessons learned were exactly the same: Boat controller, such as exactly following breaklines along with other construction, and keeping accurate trolling rate are of extreme importance. Utilizing the ideal lures on the proper equipment is equally as essential.

When trolling in massive waves, getting the very best boat controller boils down to 2 things: Consistently troll with the end, also, utilize accessories to select the surge from the ship.

Trolling using all the end is the most essential.  You can keep your rate better when motoring downwind than in case you're bucking waves go on.  Additionally, when heading to the wind, gusts of wind will catch the nose of your ship, while it's fiberglass or aluminum, and twist you off course.

A when trying to troll in the end, you're constantly fighting to remain on a specific route instead of paying attention to the small details which are so important to fish. Your catch speed will endure.

When I am trolling in blustery conditions, I will reel in all of my lines and shake up my 250-hp Mercury Verado in the conclusion of my semi automatic pass, and engine my Lund boat up wind to where I wish to start trolling and begin all over again.   Not compared to enduring a trolling pass to the end, all of the while trolling with improper ship control and in varying rates.

I will correct the engine till I reach the appropriate rate, then deploy my baits and Church Tackle in-line planer boards to another move.

However a ship surging--which is, slowing going up a wave and browsing high-speed down another side--plays havoc on bait activity.  Whenever some surge is fine (only enough to bring a little speeding up and slowing from this bait ), hefty surge which produces the bait come to a full halt then tear forward isn't.

To decrease boat spike, I will tie off two little drift socks close to the bow of my Lund, one each side, connected to the forward/side cleats, ensuring that the socks hit back to around mid boat.  In tiny boats, one big drift sock tied off in the bow and permitted to deploy directly beneath the ship, near the stern, only before the outboard's prop, will have precisely the identical effect.  Maintaining trolling speed is simpler with stray socks set up, too.

Together with my sticks in rod holders, I will continue to keep my hands on the throttle of this Mercury kicker in any way times so that I can make instant adjustments to steering and speed.

From that vantage pointI will see the display of my Lowrance all time sonar/GPS, mounted on the dashboard so I can keep an eye on my thickness, rate, and plotter at a glance.

Using a Navionics mapping app showing at the backdrop of my Lowrance GPS, I know right where I'm constantly and am in a position to follow along with breaklines with precision.  In addition, I know well beforehand how the breakline lays before me and that way I will need to flip to follow along.

The two crankbaits and spinners (crawler harnesses) are great options when trolling in massive waves. However, I put more thought into picking lures for trolling in windy conditions than simply rummaging about in my Plano tackle bags for any ol' lure.

When trolling crankbaits in windy conditions, I will select ones with large bodies and big diving lips because these have more immunity in the water and also spike significantly less than smaller ones having small lips.  

Additionally, I use spinners with bigger deep-cupped blades as such, also, have more immunity in the sport.

Utilizing the ideal line, also, will create trolling in wind simpler.  1 land of monofilament, for example Berkley XT (Extra Tough), as an instance, makes it to have tons of stretch (also a tough exterior that resists abrasions) and also the line moves and contracts and functions as a shock absorber between the pole tip and lure.

Clip-on weights, for example Church Tackle's Flex Clip Weights, may be attached to lineup about the center of yet much line you have out, along with the elevator and drop of this weight as the ship rushes forwards and back will cut the quantity of spike in the lure.

Lead core line is successful for reducing explosion, also.   Lead core dose not elongate, but bows as the ship goes and stops, thus the bait slows and speeds up but maybe not having an irregular stop and go movement.

Sufix includes a fresh lead center line, in 10 colour arrangement for allowing you to know how much line is outside, in 12- during 36-pound test.  Generally, I propose using lead heart no milder that 18-pound evaluation, since this evaluation (and thicker ) gets the maximum quantity of lead inside sinks in the best rate.

If trolling in powerful winds and big tide has frazzled you at the past, only don't forget the aforementioned strategies and hints: Consistently troll with the end and utilize drift socks to get improved ship control and speed direction.  And use bigger lures with a great deal of water resistance, use gear which can take up the slack since the ship surges, and you're going to catch more fish.

More Topic: Electric Trolling Motor Maintenance Tips- You Need to Know