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thepancakelady · 28 days ago

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Fashion in Shine

Let's get out of the way my lack of qualifications to talk about this, I simply enjoy the topic and have half a decent eye for details, but that's basically it. No fashion or design degree, nor history and definitely not the 2 combined, I just Like things and I felt like spending the week reading up on stuff and collecting references, that's it. I hope you enjoy reading this.

Shine: Accurate? Anacronistic?

Bit of both, really.

The silhouettes are very correct and accurate and that's usually what makes a piece of period media feel right and not costumy, but Shine gives a slightly idealised view of Late Sixties Fashion in which no loud print is clashing with the next person's own loud print, in which hip party people all dress in harmonious cool tones and where make up sparkles under the club's lights.

...Where's the Brown?

Honestly, the past is always browner than we remember, the Sixties were no expeption, but this is the same thing they did with the 80s in Stranger Things and all the 90s Fashion Moodboards that we see around so i'm not faulting the show, I can see that, for most scenes, they kept it to cool tones and brown would clash immensely.

The anacronisms mostly come from the cinematography's colour palette and given the gorgeous results, you simply can't fault it.

And Moira needs her glitter, you will not get a single negative comment on her from me, not even under torture.

Let's start with the direct comparisons that i spent the last few days making, PLEASE.

Party Outfits:

Mod dresses, plastic dresses, blue tux jackets with black silk lapels, Big Hair, ruffled shirts, embroidery.

And Moira.

She's in a spacey costume and I love every detail, from the actual dress that looks like a late 40s Dior strapless gown, to the added structured corset (that she sheds in the scene when Krailert is at the piano, together with her head-piece), the jewels, the hair, the make up (YES SHE CAN HAVE GLITTER, SHE'S ALLOWED).

Which brings me to

See what i meant about colours? If that gent in red was standing next to Cunty Ringo at the moonlanding party we'd have had Christmas in July. Anyway, look at the sparkly dress Punpun Sutatta is wearing and tell me it's not trying to be a Rabanne. It's also Thee Perfect Dress for the moonlanding, so i'm expecting her character to be a fashion girlie with impeccable taste in the next episodes.

But look at Cunty Ringo. Look at those biiiig lapels! Look at the ruffles! (AND THE POSE!)

I'll talk about business suits later, but trendy formal wear in the Late Sixties was, for a lack of better words, "shapey". Together with brightly coloured tuxedos, big, wide peaked lapels and ruffled shirts were a common combination. The overall silhouette of a suit was way trimmer than in the precendent decade, even double breasted jackets, which tend to look a little more boxy, still were cut to give more of a triangular shape to the torso, rather than a rectangular one.

Apo's suit is a very similar cut to Cunty Ringo's.

BUT! There's character work in this Outfit! So much of it!!! It's a solid black, which is both screaming "square" and the exact opposite! The suit is a modern cut, but apart from the shirt and pin it's styled extremely traditionally, HE'S WEARING OPERA PUMPS AND SILK CALF-HEIGHT STOCKINGS FFS (Apo you fucking nerd, I know this is all you, look at me in the eye. I KNOW.). The shirt is black which is uncommon, it speaks of being fashion concious. Proper, prepared to follow the rules, but with a definite eye on modernity.

CHARACTER STUDY OUTFIT!!!!

Now a piece that was a highlight for me

Hair and Make Up:

MOD JACKET!! Male mod fashion was sleek and essential, while still being working class. These jackets became very popular even outsite mod circles thanks to them being often worn by artists like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who (pleeeease go watch Quadrophenia for mod fashion. And because it's a goddam good film).

Khom's jacket is Perfect. Black velvet collar, 3 buttons, that specific shade of grey. Oh yes please.

*I added a Mr Steed (from the 60s Avengers TV show) as a bonus, because he's wearing a similar one, albeit way closer to the edwardian garment that inspired the mod jacket. I just wanted to include this dapper dapper man because I love him. And 1960s Diana Rigg was a smokeshow.

(I'm only showing women examples, traditional mens haircuts were rather, how shall i say, standard? I wanna have fun here XD)

A few dared the Pixie Cut, made famous by Twiggy, along with her iconic black cut-crease makeup, most women kept their hair long and teased it into gravity-defying oblivion. Or simply wore the 1960s version of a Bumpit. Beehives were big, both in popularity and dimensions.

Regarding make up, the winged eyeliner, popular ever since the 40s became bolder and bolder and more graphic. The red lip lost popularity, mostly replaced by nude colours, which brought more attention to the eye. Pastel, chalky eyeshadows were in fashion, with bright jewel tones as a slightly less popular, but still "in" choice, especially for people with deeper skintones. The eyelashes mostly followed the More Is More trend, even getting painted on (especially the lower ones).

And for the younger and more fashion-forward women, there were several bodypaint sets available, to paint flowers on their faces and bodies. Biba made an incredibly popular one. (I will not start nerding out about how cool Biba was, but please read up on it, Barbara Hulanicki is a fucking boss and a visionary).

The show went with winged liners and poofed up hair, mostly, i guess, out of scene colour palette and how dressed up/down is a character.

It's maybe a slightly idealised 60s makeup, seen through a contemporary lense, but i think it's working well.

I wish I knew more about southeast asian beauty products of the period, and by more i mean anything. I'll keep looking, but so far I didn't find much at all.

Btw, again, Moria. I see you in another Dior.

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/70931762873312585/

(or like, ya know, something that looks like one on purpose)

Business Suits

Business suits in the 1960s were mostly pretty essential, with a sleeker cut than previously, they were mostly rid of the big shoulder pads and abundance of fabric, the trousers waistbands dropped to below the belly button and the legs were less roomy. To me they manage to both look boring AND stylish? There's nothing that jumps to the eye, but they look "efficient"? Gone are the remnants of the Zoot Suit that still echoed in the high trousers and the ties as wide as a bib of the 50s, we're streamlined now, no faff, kinda bland, kinda cool. Which is it? Yes. And the ties are skinny now. Sometimes knitted, sometimes square tipped, but mostly silk/polyesther pointy, slim ties.

Conservative suits today are not That different from the 60s.

I included some casual shirts, mostly because I couldn't fit them anywhere else and we saw a few in the show (Khom and Khun Director of PR Dept. aka The Soggy Man). Vertical prints were popular, as were Cuban or Cuban-style shirts. Plain colours but textured fabrics were also common.

Regular shirts usually all had a breast pocket. The collars were smaller than the in 1950s

So, apparently it's blue???? Do i need to check my screen? I saw it as grey, with a slight blue tinge. Or are the official photos edited so heavily that the colour is just different? AAAAAH.

Anyway. Another character study outfit, another chance to call Apo a nerd.

See what i mean about boring but cool? It's just A Good Suit. It's modern, but nothing stands out! Not a stitch, not a hair, not a single crease. This bitch is UPTIGHT.

And yet.

Chelsea boots, aka The Beatle Boots. That particular model (ok he could have gone bolder with a cuban heel, but we're still caring about what people think here!). They're a piece of Youth Culture!

I'm glad the camera panned down on them. I know it was because he was taking them off and shaking his feeties as he put them on the ground and it was funny, but EXTREMELY CORRECT CHELSEA BOOTS! They did that for me!

Also that Four in Hand knot on the tie. That's just Apo being a fashion nerd again, but as a very skinny knot, it pairs up really well with the cut of suit and it compliments the colour of the tie, so Trin is a fashion nerd too, someone who cares about looks beyond how he's judged by his peers and elders. Character Study Outfit N2!

Tanwa & The Beatniks:

Let me start with one shirt, then I'll do the rest all together.

Look at him looking. There's a reason I dubbed him Horny Gremlin.

There was this whole Minstrel Folk fashion thing going around, sometimes called Medieval Revival, or Renaissance Revival and this type of shirt was extremely popular, possibly because it was easy to pair up with clothes that weren't strictly in the same style.

If you're curious about Medieval Revival Fashion, i have a video essay by Kaz Rowe here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EVWQGzxEwU

Now for "Mile Living His Best Life".

I feel like he went to production with a moodboard, did a big smile and then reminded them who the money is because...

Yes i formatted this differently because I wanted to be funny. This is what Mile went to the Costume Dept with. He made it through me, I was just a channel.

It's Jimmy and Jimi. That is all. He's even wearing white jeans in the promo pics, instead of the blue denim of the actual scene.

Now someone come here and convince me that Mile Guitar Nerd Phakphum didn't specifically want to look like Jimmy Paige (Led Zeppelin) and Jimi Hendrix. I don't think you can, but I'd be funny if someone tried.

4th image courtesy of @blue-grama, thanks for letting me copy your homework

Do I really need to say more?

Actually yes i do.

Time to call everyone involved a coward, because if they had any courage they'd put him in something like this

Just one Zeppelin to the left. It's period accurate.

Sure, maybe Mile wouldn't be living his best live anymore with a denim seam bisecting his scrotum, BUT I WOULD BE.

And to be clear, this is because i find gooch cutters funny. This looks incredibly uncomfortable.

But also? Amazingly slutty, and if you know me you know how much I appreciate a Tarty Man.

(damn, i started this post almost seriously, what is happening. Oh no, right, there was Cunty Ringo at the beginning, yeah this was doomed from the start)

Now, the last thing I have enough steam to talk about

Another rather idealised group costuming. It's accurate, but extremely cohesive. The ensemble scenes are beautiful to look at, because the colours are curated to look good next to each other and honestly, fair enough!

We're seeing a lot more textured fabrics, brocades and prints. And hairstyles that looks like they were left to grow and flow freely, maybe then adorned with beads and fabric strips.

This scene was definitely on a warm colour palette, with blues contrasting the reds and (finally!) browns and golden yellows, all surrounded by the rich green of plants.

Basically, nothing looks wrong in here, I was actually rather pleased with the costuming in this scene, and honestly too busy laughing at Trin.

I think I wish people just looked a little more unkempt? But all in all solid. Maybe some of the bathing suits weren't perfect, still the scene was a joy to watch and I'm pretty sure the "hippy" kids were meant to be mostly Good Looking People From Good Families anyway, so, it was possibly even more accurate than what i'm giving it credit for.

Little not-worth-a-whole-paragraph note:

Apo in Paris. Him and Claire both in black turtlenecks because we needed to see that they're late 60s intellectuals in France. I bet they whispered sweet Camuses to each other.

Conclusions:

Fairly accurate recreation of Period Fashion, the VibesTM were correct, i can tell that the costume department (of which I'm pretty sure Apo is part of, either officially or unofficially. I mean he's gonna give his opinions anyway, might as well, right?) really cared and did their homeworks. A few things were "smoothed out" to look more palatable to a contemporary audience and others were dependent on the Photography. All in all I found it satisfactory from an accuracy viewpoint and beautiful to look at from an "ah! pretty!" viewpoint.

I'm really curious to see more regular people in everyday clothes in the next episodes, because since those stand out less, they're easier to get wrong.

...I'm not gonna do another one of these though (maaaaaybe a short post here and there if there's anything that stands out. Or if Moira.)

Alright. I'm done. Sourcing images when you first have to Find Sources is tiring. Writing the post was a breeze, but i don't wanna perceive Images for at least a week XD.

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/what-men-wore-1960s/#fashion-fads-of-the-1960s

Links to some of the sources I used for male fashion:

https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-mens-suits-sport-coats-history/

Thanks to @pharawee for writing a post about the show's costuming and making me think "oh! i actually wanna do that too!" and to @blue-grama for letting me use a screenshot of theirs right when i was in the middle of going apeshit as i opened my downloaded copy of the episode for like the 4th time that day. You couldn't know, but I was full on Oliver Twist asking for food under that post XD.

and why not, i'm also tagging who i tag for my liveblogs

@kayatoasted, @italianpersonwithashippersheart, @mushiemadarame, @doublel27, @vickyawesome99

#shine the series #queue

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