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[travels-with-chris]

Saint Petersburg

Tuesday 21st May - Day 5

After a mammoth day of walking before, a late night and generally feeling exhausted, not the greatest way to wake up on your birthday, let alone a special birthday (most certainly feeling the age today). We woke up in the hotel for the last time, went down for the usual bread selection, and omelette. After a leisurely breakfast we headed back to the room to pack up all our things and Chris had the opportunity to open his birthday cards. It was a shame to actually be flying home on his birthday, but with all the adventures of the previous days, we were not up for doing too much. So after going to the shops to try and buy a couple of bottles, 10am in the morning is too early to buy vodka, who would have known that in Russia? We collected our bag from the hotel and headed on the metro to the bus stop where we could catch the train to the airport. With a quick pit stop on route, to finally collect two bottles of vodka at a very reasonable price (they were literally giving it away) we caught the very packed, hot sweaty bus to the airport. Feeling a little apprehensive about the whole exit process, we thought best to head straight through and get arrested, how wrong where we, the whole process was very smooth and pretty quick. It appears you should not listen to everything people say. The flight home was again very pleasant with food and drink supplies, being a birthday flight we made the most of the free wine. Arriving back in the UK our plan was to head to Hayling Island where we were to continue the birthday celebrations with the family. Having a quick freshen up, we headed to the local pub for a very nice carvery, washed down with a few glasses ok a bottle or two of wine and of course a big helping of birthday cake. Who would have though over the last few years how many amazing and different places we would have visited and Russia was always a place Chris wanted to see, so a great way to spend this birthday. It was lovely to look back on where lifes adventures have taken us, would not swap any of it for the world.

[travels-with-chris]

Saint Petersburg

Monday 20th May - Day 4

Our action packed day began with an unusual breakfast consisting of a savoury rice pudding and an omelette with ham and cheese. Set for the day with several coffees and orange juices we headed to the metro.

First stop Triumphal Arch of Moscow, built between 1829-1834 to commemorate Russia’s victory over Napoleon on the site of a precious wooden structure. Accessed via a subway and in between several lanes of traffic, we walked under the arch to get a good picture from both sides, then scampered back to the metro.

A short walk from the station is The Church of the Resurrection, otherwise known as Church on Spilled Blood. Built in the memory of Alexander the second who was assassinated in 1881, it stands in the same place where a bomb was thrown into his carriage. It can be seen from afar and sits besides a channel of water. It is very ornately decorated and well wort a visit. Close by is the fan zone used in the 2018 football World Cup.

It was time for a quick refreshment and we stumbled across a canteen style restaurant. We opted for two coffees and cakes, whilst most people had lunch. Entertainment was provided by a row between a tourist and the barista, it was nice not to be involved for once.

One church is never enough so we nipped into Kazan Cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady of Kazan, one of the most venerated icons in Russia. Despite it being very dark and packed with tourists it had many sculptures and icons to see.

It was a short walk to Palace Square, which presented daylight pictures of Winter Palace and Building of the General Staff. You can take a carriage ride from here but we had a challenge to undertake.

Around the corner is the golden dome of St Isaacs Cathedral, which you can enter or choose to climb the 262 steps to the colonnade, which we did. There are great views to be had across the city, though it was mainly Richard who was brave brought to take pictures. We passed a giant bell then returned via a spiral staircase, part metal, part stone back to the bottom. Across from here is a park and we sat on a bench to get our breath back then walked along the river, to an outdoor kiosk with seating, for a cheeky pint and to share some crisps.

Crossing the river we carried on waking until we reached St Peter and St Paul Fortress, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. It is free to visit the island, known as Hare Island, but you have to pay to enter the attractions. We counted our Roubles, bought a water and entered the complex, firstly Peter and Paul Cathedral. Inside are the graves of nearly all Romanov rulers from Saint Peter the Great to the murdered Royal Family killed in 1918 and reburied here in 1998. With an exhibition documenting the history of the building and those buried within it, it made for an interesting afternoon. A bizarre spectacle was two buses, labelled ladies and gentlemen, which had been converted into toilets. Well we had to pop in and pay the driver, before using the urinals next to several cubicles.

What should have been an easy metro ride to and from the football stadium turned into a massive mission. Once off the train we walked to Maritime Victory Park. Located here are restaurants and bars, an amusement park and pretty gardens, with nice benches to relax on. It was quite a walk to the stadium, opened in 2017 ready for the 2018 football World Cup. Designed to look like a spaceship, we tried to do our usual lap around the perimeter but due to segregated fencing could not do so. What followed can only be described as an agonising walking marathon, to try to circle the stadium, reach a nearer metro station (not open), before having to give up and walk back through the park to the metro we arrived at.

Once back at the hotel, there was time for a few snacks before dinner at our new favourite canteen restaurant over the road. Choosing a random food selection again and all accompanied by vodka and orange, we started to relax from the long walking day.

More walking followed, but this time to catch the evening boat trip at 23.30 to see the famous bridge openings. Twenty two bridges are drawn to let ships pass in and out of the Baltic Sea into the Volga-Baltic waterway system. It was a packed boat and for the most part the travel was at a serene pace, passing so many of the landmarks we had seen earlier in the day. As we doubled back on ourselves, the bridges and drawbridges began to open, to the delight of crowds on the banks. We sped from ridge to bridge before returning back to where we had boarded. It was to be a late night, as by now public transport had stopped, so another walk back to the hotel followed, boy were we ready for bed!

[travels-with-chris]

Saint Petersburg

Sunday 19th May - Day 3

After what was quite a pleasant sleep onboard the train, we woke up feeling refreshed and ready for our breakfast, which was brought to us in our private carriage at 7.30. We started with a traditional Russian omelette, which was covered in caviar, well when in first class darling, what else would you expect? This was finished off with a pastry selection washed down with a choice of tea and coffee. We were offered a courtesy taxi ride from the train station to the hotel, but with it only being short walk away and arriving well before check in, we decided to walk the short distance. Unfortunately the hotel was completely full from the night before so there was no chance of having an early check in. So dropping the bags off, we decided to go out and explore the sights of St Petersburg.

Still not quite woken up fully and feeling very tired from the full day yesterday, we decided to take the metro system, buying a 72 hour travel card, which we were determined to make full use of it. Our first point of call was to be another World Cup football ground. With a short walk in the heat it was not so bad, but was a little disappointing when we realised the ground was actually the old one and not the new one. So heading back we saw Zayachy Island and in the back drop the impressive buildings of St Petersburg across the water. Zayachy Island is the home to St Peters and St Paul cathedral and the fort, but for us today at least it was a place for us to stop and relax and even take in the local sport called Gorodki, where the aim of the game is the person stands one end and has to knock out a group of skittles arranged on various patterns, by throwing what can be described as a log at them. We presume you receive more points if you managed to clear the arrangement in the least amount of throws, as they were being thrown with much gusto. Getting nearly time to check in, we headed back on the tram, then the metro to the hotel, where luckily the room was ready and we were in need of a relax and rest. After a brief break we headed to the nearby shop to buy some Russian vodka and snacks, well when in Russia do as the Russians do, and drink. The vodka although very cheap was surprisingly very drinkable. With the evening getting a little cooler, not much, I might add, we headed out for a stroll to find somewhere to eat, and by luck we did not have to stroll far, to find a canteen style restaurant, with plenty of traditional Russian cuisine to temp us. With our varied selection we sat down and enjoyed the meal of course with a beverage or two of Russian beer and even a Russian cranberry liquor. After feeling completely stuffed we thought a good walk down the main street Nevsky Prospekt was in order, with all the many historical buildings, shops, bars, and street performers it was a very pleasant and surprisingly long walk from one end to the other. At the other end was the Royal Summer palace, we took a few snaps and then decided to take the metro back to the hotel, okay after stopping for another quick nightcap, before arriving at the hotel feeling very contented and ready for bed and a good nights sleep.

[travels-with-chris]

Moscow

Saturday 18th May - Day 2

Having had a good night sleep, it was time to leave our room and head out. Luckily we could leave the heavy bags behind so on a warm day we had the freedom to get in as much as we could! Our first stop was for breakfast, as the night before we had spotted a little coffee shop with outside seating a few roads away from the hotel. Ordering coffees and a strange sausage and cooked egg, but now chilled, tomato and rusti combo, we sat a few seats away from a very amorous couple who had not mace it home from the night before, but had managed to get more beer! We enjoyed our breakfast but were disappointed to see the advertised price may have been for Russians (our tourist price differed somewhat).

An unusual sight and one we had not experienced before awaited, with us walking to Red Square to visit Lenin’s tomb. There was quite a queue already and with free entry it drew both Russians and tourists alike. Having passed security to the outer edge of The Kremlin, we entered the mausoleum where Lenin has been since 1924. With no photos allowed, we passed single file around the roped off area where his body is encased and then took the exit back to the sunlight. It was quite an experience and also presented an opportunity to take some great photos of Red Square.

Literally a minute away is Saint Basils Cathedral, which is now a museum. We queued for the gates to open to individuals, as the group tours were in first, then rushed to the ticket booth then inside to beat the throngs. Built between 1551 to 1561 on the orders of Ivan the Terrible to commemorate the captured of Kazan and Astrakhan. It is very beautiful but it was also full of artists with easels out sketching and painting, making navigating its corridors and steps tricky to say the least.

Once outside and onto the streets we headed to Zaradye Park to make use of the free facilities, for a sit down and to plan our next steps. Unsurprisingly this involved food, as a recommendation was to try Soviet ice cream in GUM, a shopping centre close by. This indeed was a sight, upmarket shops, ornately decorated and all views seemed better with a cooling ice cream each, which was very nice!

Time for a mammoth walk, back past and around Kremlin walls and towards the infamous statue of Peter the Great. Along the way we saw many immaculately kept parks and statues, before crossing the Moskva river with spectacular views back across the city. We were tired, hot and thirsty and took on water before finding a bench shaped like a deckchair upon which we could lay down. Behind us the eighth tallest statue in the world, unveiled in 1997 to coincide with the 300th anniversary of the Russian navy, which Peter the Great founded. Unloved by the locals as Peter favoured St Petersburg over Moscow, it has been voted in a list of ugliest statues, but we liked it.

We sat for some time in Muzeon Park relaxing but then headed to the metro. On our way was Fallen Monument Park with Soviet era statues and monuments. With yet more water taken on board we travelled to the Olympic stadium complex by metro. The Luzhniki stadium was the main arena for the 1980 Olympics and 2018 football World Cup final. It was time for the obligatory lap around the outside and to pose with a statue of the World Cup mascot, a wolf called Zabivaka, or one who scores. With lots of smaller sporting arenas dotted around the complex there was lots to see and do, however, we were dehydrated and needed refreshment, cue a nearby bar! Two beers each and some crisps to refresh us before we set off again.

Next, to the nearby metro as to make full use of our travel cards we wanted to see the well decorated underground stations. To be honest they are all special in their own way but we had a guide of the top five and made our way around each one. From stained glass windows, to people in various trades, parts of the former USSR they were all special. Our photo is of Novoslobodskaya, featured in the BBC coverage of the World Cup.

Emerging from our underground adventures, we arrived on the outskirts of Red Square, where a market had been set up to feature all aspects of the sea, there was music and dancing and many food stalls. We tried sardines cooked in flour, which were ok, so high praise indeed!

It was getting late so we headed back to the hotel to collect our bags then walked to the metro arriving at Leningradskiy station ready for our overnight train journey to Saint Petersburg. With the station teeming with Chinese tourists and no seats in sight, we sat outside for a bit, then found a supermarket for all the essentials, vodka, orange juice, crisps and chocolate! As the train did not depart until midnight there was time to kill, luckily Burger King filled that void and our stomachs. At eleven PM the station was much quieter, our train came in at 1130, however, the doors did not unlock until fifteen minutes to departure. Our tickets were checked and along with another unknown couple we entered the first class carriage. Thanks to Richard we had our own room, with complimentary fruit, chocolate, a tv and our own shower and toilet. The train manager served us orange juice and asked for an English coin as a souvenir. I’m sure he regretted us foisting 1p, 2p, 20p and £1 on him! As the train slowly pulled away we opened the small bottle of vodka, made use of the orange juice and watched the Russian countryside pass us by.

[travels-with-chris]

Moscow

Friday 17th May - Day 1

Having arrived at our bijou room, small but tastefully decorated, we had a a quick shower and freshen up and made our way out for the evening. Walking down the streets now without a bag, we were able to take in the splendour of this mysterious capital city and our first impressions were very good and people with lots of money. All the bars and restaurants as we walked from the hotel, seemed like you needed a VIP pass to enter, well the Russians are a very classy nation. We continued to walk down the streets following the downloaded map on Richards phone, which had a mind of its own and took you more of a scenic route rather than direct, but then we would have missed seeing all the grand buildings. Arriving at the corner of the street, no we did not stop to try and earn money, Richard was attracted like a magpie to shiny things, to all the fairy lights that were hanging up down the main pedestrian walkway and the busiest tourist street in Moscow. It really was a picture and with the many people playing various music, it was a surreal experience and one you could never have imagined that a cold ex soviet country would be like, very pleasantly surprised.

Now what happened next was a first for both Chris and I, we stopped to look at a menu and instead of looking around many places and walking for miles, we threw caution to the wind and just went straight in and no it was not McDonald’s. Our eatery for the night actually turned out to be a Georgian restaurant, only us!! We sat down and were assisted by a very nice enthusiastic lady who explained everything to us. We noticed on the menu they had borsch, so we asked to try that and of course when in Russia do as the Russians do and drink vodka. The lady had other plans in mind and in the end we just decided to let her choose. Starting off with a Georgian soup, which can only be described as a spicy meat noodle soup. Instead of a 40% Russian vodka Chris was given a 70% Georgian Chacha which actually turned out to be a brandy, to definitely put hairs on your chest. Richard was given a home brewed glass of Georgian wine very much like port. For main she had chosen a Georgian pizza to share which was like any other pizza except instead of tomato sauce and topping, it was just cheese and lots of it. Having finished Chris went to order a glass of wine, but the lady refused as she said with the wine on top of the Chacha he might end up out for the count, so we paid and headed out for a further explore.

Walking towards the end of the street, we found ourselves right on the edge of Red Square, here you will find the very guarded and protected Kremlin and to the other corner in my opinion one of the most impressive cathedrals in the world, St Basils Catherdral, with its coloured domes and very grand stature it was a real tourist hotspot and it was even said that when Ivan the terrible first saw this, he was so overcome by its beauty, that he had the eyes of the architects gauged out so that they could never produce something so magnificent again. After taking about 100 photos and looking around to make sure we were not being followed, we carried on our stroll taking in the warm nights air in this very cosmopolitan city. One thing that was lovely is they have many lit up walks around the buildings and parks and like the many people around us we sat and people watched for a while soaking it all in. Getting late or in fact very early in the morning we decided to stroll back to the hotel for some sleep as the next day was going to be a big exploration.

[travels-with-chris]

RUSSIA

On my (Chris) wanted list for a long time and with a big birthday coming up, it seemed a perfect time to visit this big beast of a country. With the plan of dividing our time between Moscow and St Petersburg the aim was to see as much as possible.

There was a lot of planning into making this happen. Firstly, a complicated online visa application, followed by a visit to London so our fingerprints could be scanned, passports retained for visas to be added before being couriered back to us. Feeling like seasoned travellers now, even we were surprised by the cost of over £300 just to get visas for both of us!

To acclimatise for our trip to what some may see as an oppressive regime, we travelled back to Croydon, mainly to leave the car as the flight was from Heathrow but back to Gatwick. Nearby we stayed in a hotel for the night and caught the early morning express X26 bus to Heathrow. The longest bus journey in London I’ll have you know! Once at the airport we collected our Roubles, cleared security and went for a ... coffee! No, not like us to pass up on an early morning airport drink, but we sensed much vodka ahead. Boarding our Aeroflot flight to Sheremetyevo airport, the scene of a fatal air accident a few weeks before, there was some intrepidation, however, the flight was carefree, bar a little turbulence, so with a half full plane, nice lunch and our first Russian produced wine to try, time passed without incident.

Once on the ground and time wise two hours ahead of the UK, we passed through security with ease and walked to where a bus would take us to the metro station. Despite some concerns over whether to pay the fare before boarding, after a 30 minute wait, we paid the driver and set off. Aware Moscow traffic is bad, we were surprised just how congested the roads are. Eventually we reached the metro station and after some assistance from a nice lady who worked there bought a ticket to the nearest metro to our hotel. With a brisk fifteen minute walk we were inside but tired, not helped by the fact that despite there being a lift, we walked up to the fourth floor.

[travels-with-chris]

Jaipur / Delhi

Friday 22nd March - Day 6

Our last full day in India was to be another action packed day, starting with cases out, breakfast and then onto the coach.

It was a short distance to town where we took in the impressive town hall again before parking and walking to the Royal Observatory or Jantar Mantar. Here a collection of nineteen astronomical instruments including the worlds largest stone sundial are situated. Built by the Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh the second and completed in 1734, it remains a peaceful spacious site, with the occasional noise from the busy city outside intruding in. We had a new guide who showed us around, before going to see our astrological birth signs orientated to the constellation it measures, being greedy Chris had two as he was born on the cusp. After a five minute rest, we met AJ, our original guide and headed to the market area.

Allowed to walk freely through the market, ensured that there was plenty to see but not the pyjamas we were looking to take home! After about thirty minutes, in pairs we climbed aboard a bicycle tuk tuk, braving the traffic, including cows and chaos to head to a factory that embroidered cloth, carpets, bedding, clothes, well you name it. Firstly, we saw block printing and bought two of the blocks in the shape of an elephant and Lord Ganesha. We then saw carpet weaving, burning, washing and the clipping of excess fibres. Next everyone was offered rum and coke, shown a carpet demonstration and asked to part with their cash for the goods. Several did in the group, but we slunk away to the shop to buy a bed sheet, though again not the elusive pyjamas.

Back on the bus and we set off for the five hour journey to Delhi. All the usual sights and more passes by the window, before we made a pit stop at a cafe and shop off of the motorway. It was at this point after some serious haggling that we bought the elusive pyjamas. Indian pyjamas really are very comfortable!

As the light faded we arrived at the hotel, which was exceptional. The trouble yet again was that there was no real time to enjoy it. Having been shown to the room we were very surprised to see it decorated with balloons, banners and a birthday cake. Not as surprised, it would seem as the poor staff who must have seen our shocked and confused faces. After the cases arrived, it was decided we would go for a quick dip in the pool, leading to a swim, quick lay down in a sun lounger in the dark. With time running out we returned to the room, changed and headed out for a pre dinner drink, a buffet dinner with our most expensive bottle of wine so far, followed by one last drink at the bar.

[travels-with-chris]

Jaipur

Thursday 21st March - Day 5

This morning you could feel a real sense of excitement and festivity in the air, for it was the day of Holi celebrations, the first day of spring. Everyone was in high spirits, all the hotel staff greeted you with a ‘Happy Holi’. We arrived down to breakfast with everyone eager to start the days celebrations. With a hearty breakfast and our pristine white Kurta collected from our tour guide we had a quick change, then headed outside to the coach where ready and waiting was the tour guide and the coach staff with coloured powder ready to start the Holi celebrations in the hotel entrance. Unlike the tame gentle throwing that us English were doing to each other, our tour guide showed us how it was actually done, by grabbing massive handfuls of different coloured powder, then rubbing it hard and deep into the hair and face. It really was a sight to see and we certainly no longer looked so pristine and white.

Now suitably covered in powder we boarded our coach, though again this was a rather surreal experience, sat in the coach looking like a paint bomb had exploded. Luckily not having to travel far, we arrived at our host families house. We were greeted by the son of the family and the mother and father who were all very hospitable and very welcoming. The son explained how the events would unfold and asked us if we would like to do it the reserved way or the traditional Indian way, barely finishing the sentence to say the India way, we were ambushed with various powders, water guns and even a hose pipe at one point. Needless to say there were a few casualties and many people ended up temporarily blinded with the powder in their eyes. Luckily a good wash off and you were as right as rain. This was a real experience and we have never seen so many people smiling and laughing as much as at that point right there. It was a free for all, tour group against tour group, host family against tourist and even loved one against loved one, even the poor families dog had no escape. Luckily for us the host family declared a break for refreshments and snacks, so we headed to their courtyard deluged in paint and water. We had gone from looking like an Andy Warhol painting to a vision of monsoon devastation. Although the families homemade gin and very tasty India treats helped get over the shock, perhaps a little bit too much gin was used for medicinal purposes. At this point the son gave us a talk on his family, which was very informative but was slightly scarred by the fact that the dog took a liking to the small boy and in front of everyone decided to, ..... well will keep that to your imagination. We were then served I’m guessing you know what, yep a buffet lunch of various curried dishes. Albeit very tasty so can’t complain too much. After letting the food settle and getting over the laughter of us all sat down drenched we headed back out to the front lawn for more Holi celebration games. The first was a game of skill where you had to grab a rag from the middle of the lawn and run back to your side to safety before the opposing team caught you. The loser would get a cooling off with a massive bucket of water. Pleased to report that Richard succeeded and avoided a further drenching as I think he had already swallowed enough tap water from the hose drenching earlier. Really must learn to scream with my mouth closed. Unfortunately Chris did not get the chance as the son seemed to want to keep having a go. Up next was a game of tug of war. With the group in place, we were looking optimistic but as the strain took place the rope could not cope and everyone came crashing to the ground, causing more injuries, all that was needed was Kate Ade and it could have been declared a war zone. The festivities were coming to an end and after a bit of India dancing it was time to board our coach, now the inside covered in newspapers, to avoid the staining. It really was a great experience and on the journey back to the hotel to get freshened up you could see many, many people had been enjoying their own festivities and they too were covered in colour.

First things first it was time to strip off and get in the shower to wash the paint out, well that was the plan. Now we know why the hotel left us little bottles of coconut oil. If you put this on before hand then the colours will not stain your skin and hair, whoops, several washes later and still looking like a packet of smarties we headed out for the afternoon sightseeing. I would like to point out that at the time of writing this, several weeks later, many of the ladies in the group still bare the colours in their hair so a word of warning to you.

Our afternoon excursion was to the Amber Fort a short drive away and we even had a ride for the last part in a 4x4 to take us up the widing street rather than walk the long journey. Other tourists were taking the other method which was by elephant but it just seems somewhat cruel to do such a thing, but the sight of a dozen elephants arriving was very impressive. As well as the sight of the monkey tree, no not monkey nuts but monkeys a whole troop of them covering the tree like leaves. With all the excitement from the morning and still very much the whole place in Holi celebration mode, it was hard to take in what was being told by the tour guide. The fort however did not need words as the view from afar and close up spoke a thousand words and it was hard to believe that something so magnificent could have started its construction in 1592. With steep steps and a searing heat, it was a bit too much for some, so a rest in the shade was much needed. For us, we continued on our tour of the many courtyards and halls of public audience, which was covered floor to ceiling in intricate mirrors. We also had a tour of the private quarters for the many wives of the Emperor. All I can say is, he must have been a busy man! This place is a must see if coming to Jaipur. Our 4x4 awaited us and returned us down the bumpy cobbled streets back to our coach ready for the return journey back to the hotel. The view out of the window was mesmerising with people waving and smiling, it was hard not to laugh and smile back at them. Back to the hotel we had enough time for another scrub trying to get more colour off before we headed down to the hotel bar for a drink, this time not a buffet in sight but instead we had the choice of pizza, burgers and toasted sandwiches, could this day get any better? Feeling very content we headed off to bed after another quick shower, still no joy and with the towels looking like a murder scene from Tagart it was time to call it a night.

[travels-with-chris]

Agra / Jaipur

Wednesday 20th March - Day 4

You may think after such a busy day the day before, that there might be less of a packed schedule, but no the pace continued as we woke early, packed and left the cases outside, had breakfast and boarded the coach.

The first stop was Fatehpur Sikri, a walled city with well preserved imperial palace, once the capital of the Mughal Empire, about 24 miles from Agra. Founded in 1569 but abandoned 16 years later due to a lack of water. Today there was certainly some water as some young men ask for money before diving into a deep well. With no time to watch, as our guide wanted to conduct most of his talks in the baking sun, we toured the buildings, taking in the architecture and pleasant gardens. There is even a ring which an elephant was tethered to in its role as an executioner by crushing skulls underneath his foot. Having travelled up by a minibus with potentially the closest rows of seats ever assembled, a decision was made to walk back down the hill to our tour bus and a short drive to lunch.

In fact the drive was very short by our usual standards and soon we entered the gates of Laxmi Vilas Palace, now a boutique hotel but once a former royal residence. As the first to enter the dining room we could only guess at what lay beneath the serving trays, though strangely our first guess of curry was right! To be fair there was a great selection of vegetables, rice and meats, with a Kingfisher beer to help wash it down. The highlight was the lemon sorbet to finish, which cleansed the pallet nicely. With no time to peruse the gift shop for long as our guide herded us back onto the coach ready for five more hours of fun on the roads.

The tour group believed we were going to a bird sanctuary on the way, however, the guide meant we were driving past one, cue disappointment as we had a long drive ahead, with just one pit stop along the way. Eventually we arrived into Jaipur, though rather than go straight to the hotel we did a brief drive by, seeing the bonfires built for the Holi Festival, before parking up for a quick walking tour of the City Palace.

Jaipur is the capital city in the state of Rajasthan and there has been a palace in the city as long as the city has been around. In fact up until 1949 it was the ceremonial and administrative seat of the Maharajah of Jaipur. Whilst the Jaipur Royal Family still live here, it is now the architecture, from the impressive entrance gates, to the museum known as the Maharajah Sawai Man Singh the second, which is the main attraction. Our guide showed us around here and Sabha Niwas, known as hall of audience, in all its splendour, with a grand chandelier. We ended our tour in the Sarvato Bhadra, a single storey square, open hall with enclosed rooms in all four corners, also contains two large silver urns. It was time to get back on the coach to the hotel, but not before some of the group opted for henna tattoos, though neither of us were that daring.

Minutes later we reached the hotel and were presented with a garland of flowers, bindi (red spot on the forehead) and refreshing soft drink. With no time to rest, it was a quick change, once the bags arrived, down to the bar and into dinner. No guesses for what the buffet had in store for us!

[travels-with-chris]

Agra

Tuesday 19th March - Day 3

Today was not just going to be a special day, as not every day you get to see one of the seven wonders of the world, but to actually see it on your 40th birthday makes it even more special. I should point out that Richard was 40 and not Chris as he would point out he is much younger (turning 40 in May) oh such a cradle snatcher. The morning started bright and early, luckily it was not a hotel transfer day so we did not have the bags to worry about. Chris woke me with a burst of happy birthday followed by opening my birthday cards. Then it was a knock on the door by Richards sister Katie, whose birthday was also today, yes you read that right both 40 and in fact there are actually four of, making us quads, celebrating that milestone birthday. Going down to a birthday breakfast, well actually the usual buffet breakfast, but with people wishing you happy birthday. We had an early start so could not hang around for long. This morning there was definitely a buzz about the group and something I think we had all been looking forward to and one of the main reasons we came to India. The highlight of the tour Taj Mahal. Being picked up by our our coach it was not long before we arrived at the drop off area, where we were greeted by large golf buggies that took us the several hundred meters to the entrance of the tourist attraction. We had arrived by 9 so the queues were not long, after a quick frisk we were walking in towards the main arch of the outer building. From here you had a very impressive view of the Taj Mahal albeit from a distance. Here we were greeted by an official group photographer where he took many pictures of people posing in many poses. The main purpose of the Taj Mahal is the magnificent ivory-white marble mausoleum, which was commissioned by Mughal emperor Shan Jahan in 1632 to house the tomb of his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. The other main tourist attraction is the Diana bench, which had big queues of people wanting a picture where one of the most famous princesses in the world sat, I wonder if Mumtaz would be annoyed in her tomb thinking of this other princess taking the limelight. The whole experience was great and w even managed to see a few close ups of the little chipmunks running around the gardens. A quirky fact for you is that all the towers around the tomb are built leaning out so if they where to fall, they would fall outwards rather than inwards.

Boarding our coach with the sanitising man feeling very generous with a soaking of hand gel rather than a quick squirt we were on our way to a blanket trip experience, a tour of a marble factory. Unfortunately the actual factory was closed for Holi celebrations, wink wink, but we did see two men, one was carving out the marble for the previous gems to be inlayed into the design. After it was a cause of run the gauntlet to see if you could get out of the shop without being drawn into buying an item, Richard fell short at the last hurdle and was sucked into buying a marble tile of the Taj Mahal, worth the money as it captured a very special moment in our life together.

Now it was time for a lunch stop, where we were greeted by a small boy banging a drum singing songs, he seemed to be enjoying himself. After a few days of curry we were hoping for a toastie, but it was not to be, more curried dishes on offer, although still tasty.

From here we travelled to the Agra Fort a historical fort which used to be the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until the capital of India moved from Agra to Delhi in 1683. To be honest the temperature was starting to get very warm and the tour guides information slightly less interesting, so we found ourselves switching off from what he was saying and tried spending as much time in the shade, avoiding the searing 35c sun. Although we did take in the fact that Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son here in the octagonal tower for eight years. There is also a very impressive view of the Taj Mahal from the balcony of the fort too.

Back on the coach but not for long, we were then at our next stop the Moti Bagh also known and the baby Taj or the jewel box which actually held a tomb. Here we also got to see the natives carrying flowers and fruits in the traditional way, but of course this was all for show and as soon as you have taken the picture they were holding out their hand for money. Luckily the monkeys playing around with a bit of tarpaulin, which was very entertaining, had not caught on to the charging thing, otherwise we would have had to pay a lot with all the pictures and videos that where taken. By now the heat was starting to get a bit too much and it was becoming a rather long day so by the time we reached our last stop for the day, Mehtab Bagh, a park which overlooked the Taj Mahal where most people gathered in the evening to watch the sun set, to see the silhouette of the pristine marble of the Taj Mahal. The group were all tired and wanted to go back to the hotel for a rest. As we walked back to the coach we were quickly halted by our tour guide as in front of us was a funeral precession was walking past carrying the body of their relative to the crematorium which involved them walking through the river to the other side. The Indian culture has many rituals when it comes to deaths and from the crematorium they then have so many days before they have to scatter the ashes in the Ganges.

Of course as always it was not a long rest and not even enough time to take in the birthday decorations that had been put up celebrating Richards birthday as a surprise. We were down with the tour group enjoying another buffet style dinner. The hotel did have another surprise up their sleeve and after dinner had finished they gathered all the hotel staff together to sing happy birthday to Richard and his sister in both English and Hindi, it was a great way to finish off this fantastic but tiring day. Just a quick nightcap at the hotel bar before heading off to bed. Getting older is tiring.

[travels-with-chris]

Delhi

Monday 18th March - Day 2

Having had a good sleep we packed, left the bags outside the room and went to our buffet breakfast. The usual cereals and breads were there as well as various Indian dishes which we tried on a warm but not overbearing morning. Soon it was time to leave and head into the chaos, seeing small bikes, lorries and tuk tuks all overflowing with goods being transported around the city.

First stop was to be Raj Ghat, a gardens containing a black marble platform where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated in 1948. The small coach dropped us off outside and we entered with other tourists and school parties. We took a slope up so you could look down and see the eternal flame, then walked down, removed our shoes and walked up to the platform. After reflection, we left taking in the small chipmunks in the trees and boarded the coach to our next stop.

Parking in a side street we walked past the outdoor barbers at work, as well as the numerous hotel towels and bedding being washed and hung in the streets. Arriving at Agrasen ki Baoli, a 60 metre long and 15 metre wide step well. This protected monument has 108 steps which we managed going down and back up again!

Back on the coach it was time to do a drive by of Delhi including the government buildings including Parliament House. It was not possible to stop after the terrorist attacks of 2005 and 2008, however, we did get some good pictures from the bus. Next we passed India Gate which is a war memorial to 70,000 soldiers from the British Indian Army in the First World War.

Our final stop in Delhi was for lunch. We again walked the streets taking in the sights and visited a quirky restaurant for a selection of Indian starters and a curry with a beer. As we continued walking the streets we saw lemons and chillis tied to the doors of buildings as a symbol of protection to ward off the evil eye.

Back on the bus for the long drive to Agra, lasting some five hours, saw us head out of the city, taking in the vast agricultural lands, with cows freely wandering the roads, a bus stoping to change a tyre in the fast lane and general organised chaos. With a quick toilet stop out of the way, we continued and reached our hotel, which was a relief to all. Once inside we were greeted with a cold drink and a Bindi applied, a red spot to the forehead. It is considered the point at which creation begins. Led to our rooms, we awaited the suitcase, taking in envious glances of the pool we would never visit, due to time constraints. Once the bags arrived, we changed and headed to pre dinner drinks, where a puppet show and astrologer awaited. After a buffet dinner of various curries we had post diner drinks and retired for the evening ad a big day lay in wait!

[travels-with-chris]

Delhi

Sunday 17th March 2019 - Day 1

After checking in to the hotel, where for once we did not have to lift a finger, not even being required to check in, we were just asked to sit and given a welcome drink of hot chocolate. There was a short wait before we were shown to our room. It was a massive size with it own dressing room area, a little bit different from what we are used to, but we could get used to this. With a meeting time for the tour guide at 2pm we had time to have a freshen up and relax for a couple of hours, which was just what we needed after the long flight.

At 2pm we were all ready to meet our tour guide and our group for the next few days, a friendly bunch, a little bit older but just as fun. The meeting did not get off to a great start, where we were told due to a delay in a couple of people’s flights we were not going to do the planned itinerary. It was all very confusing and not the best way to start the holiday. In the end after a slight delay and a bit of moaning it was decided to carry on as originally planned. So boarding our coach for the week, which was like an old bus from an Indiana Jones film, we belted up and were ready to take on the sights of Delhi. Who would have thought behind the tranquil white wall of the hotel was mayhem and madness. For us it was a feast for the eyes, with something to look at everywhere. Thousands of cars, bikes, tuk tuks, people running across the road and cows resting in the middle of the traffic lanes. I certainly was glad not to be in the driving seat, especially when we collided with a bike injuring an elderly lady who was sat sideways on. We had to stop for a bit so the driver could talk to the police, but thankfully she was not badly hurt and we carried on our way.

Our first stop was the Jama Masjid Mosque, being the largest mosque in India with a capacity of 25000 people fitting in the courtyard, though I don’t think you could get away with chanting ‘my garden shed, is bigger than this.’ It is an impressive site, although for the locals I think our tour group was more appealing than the mosque itself, I think it might have been the white hotel slippers that gave us away. Whilst our guide was telling us about the history we started to get quite a crowd around us, all wanting to take selfies and of course asking for money. You are told not to even acknowledge them, but when you have a six year old on your leg, it’s very hard not to talk. We survived and got to take in this impressive site that was commissioned by the same person as the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort, namely Shan Jahan the Mughal Emperor. From here the guide took us on a walkabout down a couple of street, where again you had something to see everywhere you looked, street sellers, again lots of traffic and even monkeys. It was nice to be in the thick of it and immersed in the mayhem. From here we took a drive past the Red Fort not stopping, it looked pretty impressive from the outside though. We headed back to the hotel, to the calm and tranquility. That evening we had a welcome dinner with the group, with a glass of wine or beer and the menu being a buffet style, you can guess curried items featured quite heavily and this is where Chris started to get a liking for cheese curry.

Still feeling a little exhausted from the flight and the time delay, after a night cap in the hotel bar it was time to head off to bed and reflect upon all the sights from the day.

[travels-with-chris]

INDIA

Our trips seem to be getting more and more exotic as we travel further afield from Europe. After taking in Turkey we set out to celebrate a big birthday milestone for Richard and share it with his mum, dad and sister by taking in a week long tour of the Golden Triangle in India.

Leaving on Saturday 16th March 2019 from London Heathrow, despite our best efforts we remained in economy for our British Airways flight to Delhi. With Pakistani airspace shut the flight took ten hours and so we were relieved to land.

Once in the ground we caught up with the three other members of the travelling party who had been in premium economy and joined the queue at immigration. Having paid about £75 in advance for a visa, we were photographed, had our fingerprints taken and answered some questions, before continuing onwards to show security our details again, then on to get our luggage. Once in the terminal we were met by two men and taken outside to a minibus which transported us through the busy Delhi streets, about thirty minutes away to our hotel, ready to start our Indian adventure.

[travels-with-chris]

Antalya

10th November - Day 8

It was our last full day and we were going to make the most of it. After our usual breakfast of trying to eat as much food as possible and store it like a camel, it was time to head to the pool. We decided on the way to hire a mask and snorkel, something that Richard was able to master in the water, far easier than me! After looking at the fish beneath us, we returned to poolside seats to rest and relax. After a light lunch it was time for drinks by the pool, staying until the sun set. As it was the final night we headed to town to complete our souvenir shopping, getting a Turkish coffee set, some Turkish tea cups and the obligatory magnet. The hour seemed to resemble supermarket sweep but at least it was mission accomplished. One final meal awaited us before a last drink at the bar before retiring to bed, ready to return home.

On a final note, we woke and casually left the hotel the next morning, in no particular hurry walking to catch a tram to the airport. After a while we arrived and disembarked and went to the check in desk, to be told the flight was ready to leave. We were rushed through security, straight onto the plane in less than twenty minutes, surely a record? Up in the air we soon arrived in Istanbul before leaving a few hours later for London Gatwick, collecting the car and heading home.

[travels-with-chris]

Antalya

9th November 2019 - Day 7

With all the relaxing and winding down we had been doing, it seemed to be disagreeing with Chris as he came down with a stinking cold. It of course did not stop us going down as usual for our several courses of breakfast, which as always was plentiful. A quick change in the room and it was a morning by the pool side, relaxing a bit more and Chris recuperating. We could get use to the life of leisure! Even the local kittens were very relaxed today, not moving much and basking in the shade.

After a light lunch we decide to spend the afternoon looking around the old harbour, the view on the way down was just as pretty as the previous nights walk, including an old fort. This time though, taking in a few more shops in search of souvenirs to take home. One of the local store keepers was very persuasive at getting you to come into his store and even more persuasive at getting you to buy his products. Unfortunately for Chris the store keeper had taken quite a shine to him, and I reckon I could have sold him for a couple of camels, or at best a rug. Needless to say when he started to be a bit hands on, Chris was relieved to be out although it did cost a ransom of a box of apple and pomegranate tea. Carrying on down the streets we could hear the sound of music, being a national day to remember the anniversary of the death of Ataturk. It was quite a sight seeing the men in national dress, playing their instruments with much gusto. Even a local dog was enjoying the music, sat right in the middle of the band and even followed them around as they marched to the music. It was very comical. Later on we passed a house Ataturk had stayed in as we walked back to the hotel.

On arrival it was time for a late afternoon swim and a cheeky wine as we watched another sun set on what was becoming a bit of paradise. As always we headed down for the evening buffet, this time a little later then normal. You had to be quick on the late shift, because as soon as the time was up for serving dinner, teams of restaurant staff would collect up all the food hastily and it became a bit of a challenge to see who could get to the dish first. It was now time to hit the hay and catch up on some more sleep.

[travels-with-chris]

Antalya

8th November 2018 - Day 6

We slept well and with the room being well insulated did not hear the call to prayer at all. After showering we headed down to the buffet breakfast, where for us, only three courses was an option! The choices included a range of fresh and dried fruits and nuts, yogurts, cereals, pastries, breads, cooked foods, with teas, juices, in fact you name it, even a whole honeycomb. It was time to head to the pool again and try this thing called relaxing, which is actually much harder than you think! Taking the late lunch option we tried to reign it in a bit, before retiring back to the pool for a cheeky wine.

Time to get our steps in so we braved the outside world and walked around the coast towards the harbour. Passing a Roman tower, then stopping at Kecili Park to take in the harbour views by night, we walked through the pedestrian back streets and descended to the harbour. Deciding to return by daylight we took a lift back to the top to save our legs, before carrying on through town. With time to stop at a stray cat hotel, which basically contained lots of little individual shelters for cats on scrubland. We made a contribution and were given a magnet. It only took a few minutes to return to the hotel and just in time for dinner! Yet again we managed to sample the delights before an after dinner drink in the bar area before bed.

[travels-with-chris]

Istanbul/Antalya

7th November 2018 - Day 5

With a flight at 9.35 from Istanbul airport and an hour commute from the hotel we had to be up early and out before we even had the chance to wipe the sleep from our eyes or in our case, how much we can eat when breakfast opens at 7:30am and leave at 7:40 to start the journey. Feeling stuffed we headed for the tram which then connected with the metro to take us to the airport, having to top up our Istanbul card to cover the last part of the journey. Arriving at the airport with plenty of time, it did not take long to get through security and wait in the small domestic terminal for the flight to be called. Flying with Atlas Global was as pleasurable experience as flying with Turkish Airlines, seats were good and on the hour flight over they still managed to serve a beverage and a snack to eat, either a muffin or sandwich. Arriving at Antalya the sun was shining and the temperature was about 25 Celsius, this time slightly over dressed in our jeans and tops we made our way to the metro stop where we could get a ride into town for a 10th of the cost than a taxi. Arriving into Antalya it seemed a very bustling tourist city, with many many bars, shops, and restaurants it seemed ideal. With a ten minute walk to the hotel passing the very impressive Hadrian’s Gate on the way. We arrived into 5 star heaven, we both had to pinch ourselves to make sure we were not dreaming. As we were slightly early and they had issued us with our all inclusive wristbands we thought whilst we wait we may as well have a cocktail to welcome us into paradise for the next few days. Having checked into the room it was now time for afternoon snacks, which when you have a buffet offering, you really are spoilt for choice. The pool area outside with the views of the mountains and lukewarm, water this was getting better. So planting ourselves on a lounger and relaxing in the sun was on the cards for pretty much the rest of the day and the days to follow.