trick-tuck

[trick-tuck]

Mumei Part 1- shirt/top

Hello everyone!

This is going to be an extensive process tutorial so it will be split up into parts.  Each part will pertain to a certain piece as I make them.  

**Now, I must warn you that I’m no where near perfect and I make mistakes.  I learn as I go and I wing a lot of stuff I make but that is half the fun of cosplay!  Making something your own and being creative!  So with that in mind I’ll do my best to explain the things I do and if you have any questions, please drop me a line!

Now lets get started!

So I used these reference photos for Mumei:

I started with the shirt.  Using this pattern set:

Specifically the pattern for garment C.  It is sleeveless and has the criss cross of fabric in the front.

And I used this pattern set for the back:

Specifically the pattern for garment A,C cuz again it criss crosses.

From the first pattern set, the kimono one, I took the top piece and modified it to create my own because I wan’t using the back portion of the original top pattern piece.

*WARNING! I DOUBLED UP EVERY WHITE FABRIC PIECE BECAUSE IT WAS VERY SEE THROUGH WITH JUST ONE LAYER* I used a cotton blend broadcloth from Kona.

I put the same markings as the original pattern to know where to put the dart and where to place it on the fabric when cutting it.

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I also used the pattern piece for the band at the bottom.  Here you can see I pinned it to the two top pieces.

 I made the same band for the back and attached it to one side, shown here.

Back view.

I put Velcro on the other side of the band to connect the two, this is how I will get in and out of the top.

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Now we start on the straps, this is where that second pattern set comes in, the warrior woman one.  The original pattern pieces for the criss cross harness are way too long so I had to cut it almost in half and crop off the point.  Shown here.

Then you attach the straps to the top portion on the top shoulder end.

Back view of the straps not attached to bottom band.

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Now you’ll need to attach the bottom of the criss cross pieces.  I did this by myself and had to keep putting the top on and then taking it off.  It would be sooooo much faster and easier if you had a second person so they can pin it to where it is comfortable while you are wearing it.  After a couple of tries I finally got it right!

I had to make a few adjustments to the fit on the side, I added a dart to each side. Shown below.  You may or may not have to do this depending on your breast size.  I won’t be wearing a bra so I wanted the top to be as tight fitting as possible.

And I also sewed along the front center criss cross to close the gap between the two so my boobs wouldn’t come slipping out 😆

And the top is all done! 😊 I’m really happy with how it turned out! Please let me know if you have any questions or comments.  The skirt will be the next part of this tutorial.

[trick-tuck]

Undertaker from Black Butler

Hi everyone!  This is my first blog entry! Yay! I figured I’d start with my Undertaker cosplay that I did for Anime Expo 2018.

I used this pattern from Butterick for his long coat.  More specifically the design on the left, design A.  Now this is a men’s pattern so make sure to buy the smaller size if you’re body measurements are in the petite range.

The start of the pattern is fairly simple, here is a progress shot of the front.

It gets a little more complicated when you start the back.  There are several darts so please TAKE YOUR TIME while doing these.  They look really nice once they are all done.

I had to majorly take in the sides since this was originally a men’s coat.  Sorry this photo is so blurry but I put the coat on my dress form and then pinned it down the sides to take it in.  I know this isn’t the “correct” way of doing this but I know my body size fairly well in order to just eye ball the fit.  Just keep in mind that if you use this method, it will alter the sleeve hole size so you’ll need to adjust the sleeves when you add those.

I used a fusible interfacing behind the buttons and button holes for more stability.  I believe the pattern calls for something different but I liked this method better.

The inside bottom edges came out pretty rough because I don’t have a serger so I added hem tape to make them pretty since the bottom inside of the coat would be visible as I walked.  

Finished edges with hem tape.  Make sure to buy the wider hem tape because the skinner one is harder to sew, I learned the hard way -_-

Now I know his buttons are all black but I had a neat set of ombre buttons that I decided to use instead.

I bought a pack of fake pearls in varies sizes and a few cameo brooches for the embellishments to the front of the coat.

The finished outfit looked like this!  I was really happy how it came out!  I bought a top hat from a local costume shop and then used a yard of black tulle to tie around the hat so it would fall along my back.  

I wore a long sleeved, high neck leotard under a high waisted body con black skirt with black tights.  I already had lace up knee length black boots, I didn’t make the belts with buckles for the boots mainly because I didn’t have time before AX.  I used varies shades of brown eye shadow for the scar but you can also use eye liner.  I had green contacts in but they weren’t bright enough to see with my dark eyes.  So if you have very dark brown eyes like me, make sure you buy opaque colored contacts in order for them to show up.

Everyone who recognized me loved my cosplay so I’ll definitely wear this one again! :)  If you have any questions or comments please feel free to message me and I’d be happy to help! Happy sewing!

   -Sampai