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Bosch 10-Inch Dual-Bevel Glide Miter Saw CM10GD Review

Hi, I'm Andy glass of workshop adhikam. Today we're going to take a look at the bosch 10 inch. Dual bevel axial glide miter, saw model number C m10 GD will cruise around the saw I'll show you some features we'll go over some specs and then we'll talk about my impressions and what I think of the saw using it the past couple months, we'll start on The top of the unit with the handle the handle is located in a horizontal orientation with ambidextrous safety locks for the trigger on both the left and right side of the handle and the full width power switch, makes long uses a breeze where you're able to get Four fingers on it, so it's very comfortable to use the power switch turns on the 15 amp motor that delivers 4800 rpm. That'S no-load rpms the entire handle unit is very comfortable and easy to use. Next, we'll take a look at the blade guard. The blade guard has a couple rollers on the bottom that contact the base of the saw and your material making for a nice smooth transition and action, and the blade guard itself returns closed very quickly. Due to the design and engineering which is nice with a clear blade, guard, you're able to see through it and then also has some air holes that you're able to line up your materials to your cut, I move down to the fences of the unit. These fences are four and a half inches tall, and I saw - and if you loosen the red knob on the back of the fence, you can slide them out of the way for bevel cuts or get better support for a particular cut. This saw ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_saw ) is five and a half inch vertical cut capacity, which is plenty of room for crown and taller base, molding and six inches of crown capacity when you nest it against the fence using the 45 degrees spring angle. It should be noted that if you want to do a full bevel cut, you do need to move the fences out of the way moving down in the miter mechanism. We'Ve tested this out of the box and the blade was perfectly Square to the fence. And if there's an issue during shipment or during the life of the saw, maybe on a job site or transportation and saw gets bumped out of 9 degrees or the detents get pushed they're, clearly marked calibration holes and screws that you can adjust that and bring it Back nice and tight, where you need it, there are detents both left and right side of the saw at 0, 15, two-and-a-half, 31.6 and 45 degrees to the left side. You have a max range of 52 degrees and to the right side, you have a max range of 60 degrees. If you want to transport the saw you'll move it to the right hand, side due to the higher angle of 60 degrees. It makes us all. I have a smaller footprint to activate or use the miter mechanism. You will first loosen the knob on the front and you will pull the trigger the red trigger with your index finger up towards you and you can move the saw left or right. If you would like to bypass the detent, you can pull the trigger push down on the square, let go of the trigger, and now that will bypass the detent and whether you use the detent or not to set the saw at the angle. You would like you simply then tighten down the knob on the front. Moving on to the bevel mechanism on the saw, all controls are upfront, with the exception of the stop pin in the back, the saw has a 47 degree bevel range both to the left and right side of the saw, and it has positive stops at zero, 33.9 And 45 degrees again both to the left and right side of the saw to utilize the bevel mechanism. You loosen the lever on the left-hand side of the front arm here and then you're able to tilt the saw left or right at 45 degrees. If you want to go past 45 degrees, there's a little knob here on the right hand, side that you will switch to the left and you can now go to the max 47 degrees again, both left and to the right. I should note that if you want to swing to the right, you need to move the dial to the right and then allow you to swing to the right. If you want to utilize the stop and the detents that are set on the bevel, there is a red knob that you simply pull and turn in the back here at the base of the saw and that will again register those detents on the saw saw has A chopped crown lock both for base and crown molding if you'd like to use it, simply pull up on the red lever and then position the saw using the axial glide mechanism and align the pin. That'S in the glide mechanism to the holes in the chopped crown law once that's locked in position, you are ready to do your chopping both for crown and base. This saw has noteworthy dust collection. It is definitely one of the top three dust collecting miter saws that I've ever used. It comes with a dust collection bag that has a nice locking mechanism on where you push it on twist it, and then it can't come off unless you twist it and move back on the detent. That'S nice. The bag also has a zipper to empty it. In my opinion, if you do not have a shot back or a dust extractor connected to the saw, the dust bag is a must the dust bag or port on for the dust bag swivels. If you have a hose there or you'd like to move the dust bag in a particular location. Lastly, let's discuss the main importance of this: saw the axial glide mechanism, it's extremely smooth, it's a non bar styled system with to predict two perpendicular hinges, which provides a lot of rigidity and a very smooth action. It has a resistance adjustment screw to tune how you would like to saw to be right out of the box. This saw was way too smooth for us, so we had to increase the resistant and get a little bit more friction something that we're a little bit more used to with the axial glide mechanism and having no bars protruding in the back. The saw provides a lot of great space-saving solutions, especially for someone that's in a permanent location or permanent workshop, like myself, they're able to dedicate a miter saw station and utilize all the space that saves by not having those rear bars going out. The back with the axial glide mechanism, it allows the saw a 12 inch, horizontal cut capacity, so plenty of crosscut capacity to get the job done. The axial glide mechanism does have a lock. It is a black lever in the back of the saw on the left-hand side that has a little red overmolding on it, simply pull up on the red, with the acts of wide mechanism, push back all the way and a bar will slide into a little slot. Locking the unit into a chop saw mode, it also has a trenching capability on the right hand, if you'd like to use the trenching capability, you pull on the black little lever that pulls a bar in front of the clearance hole and then you're able to use The red knob to screw in and out that threaded rod to set your trenching depth. It also has a transportation pin. So once your saw is pushed all the way down. You push the pin in with the little red button and the saw will be locked in transportation mode. A big downfall for this miter saw is the hold down that is included. Now me, I am a woodworker in a dedicated woodworking shop and mill shop, so it hold downs, get used a lot in our shop not only for holding down material and increasing our quality of cut, but also utilizing them for shorter, stop locks and shorter cuts, and Things like that, this is a very strong design. It holds down material very well, but it is very timely to operate this screw mechanism with the threaded rod. You are able to utilize the neural link, that's on the base of the rod that goes into the of the base of the saw, but it just seems like it's a little too short if it would allow to go a little bit deeper or that rod is A little bit longer that mechanism would work a little bit better if they can incorporate some sort of cam system or quick action. That would be a big big time-saver for us in a woodworking shop. Well, I hope you guys enjoyed that quick tour around the saw itself. Now, let's talk a little bit about my thoughts and first impressions right at first, I was not a fan of the saw. It was different to me than what I've used in the past. It just had a different feeling: I've used this saw consistently and regularly in my shop for the last two months, and I've really come to enjoy this on the axial glide. The different features, and things like that are just really really nice, smooth high-quality. It'S a very well-built unit, there's a couple of drawbacks that I'm a little bit disappointed disappointed in, but we'll get to that in a little bit starting out the axial glide fantastic awesome, smooth an incredible space saver for someone here in the dedicated woodworking shop. If you're someone that's a contractor on the go and you're set up in smaller spaces, that is definitely something that you will enjoy as well. Moving onto the handle, like I said earlier, the handle is very comfortable. The dual safeties is really nice. If you're someone that's left or right-handed, I'm left-handed, but I use the saw the handle with my right hand, just because that's how I've always done it and then also all the saws are kind of oriented. In that way, a big drawback for me is the hold down, and then this laser this saw does not come with a laser. For me, someone in the dedicated woodworking shop, we use lasers a ton, something at this price range. I think we should have a adjustable laser. Maybe you can add a aftermarket one, but I a firm believer in lasers on high quality, miter saws, someone that's a contractor in the field. They may not use them, especially someone. That'S outside is they're hard to see, but I would think a laser on a jobsite indoors, especially, would be something that would be desirable. Let me know in the comments what you guys think about the saw not having laser and if you will use them or what you guys think this saw is a little bit larger. It'S 78 pounds it's 20 and a half inches tall and 32 inches long. It'S a little bit larger saw, but with that being said, it's built very very well. If you're someone that's on the jobsite going up and down from stairs, that might be a definite consideration right now we have it on Bosch's anti gravity stand. This thing is fantastic, got very easy wheels. The mechanism is very smooth to go in a mobile orientation to a stand. Orientation and the outriggers, or you know, supports for your material are very well-built easy to adjust whether you have a Bosch saw or not. We would highly recommend the Bosch anti-gravity stand that we have it on here now. This saw has 15 amps of power. We found that we were going through some eight quarter, hard maple, and it would bog down a little bit when weird gold full-depth. We typically go that type of material in two or three depths of cut to avoid kickback, and at that point time this saw had no issues at all. The factory blade in the saw is actually pretty good. We found it nice do not try anything with a aftermarket blade. We would only assume that that would increase the quality of cut and performance of the saw. Let us know below what you guys think of the 10 inch axial glide miter stop by Bosch. Let us know below what you guys think what you like dislike: I'd love to provide some feedback. We strongly encourage you to follow us on social media, as we do to review updates, project updates and exclusive social media giveaways. I'M Andy glass with workshop attic thanks for watching and I'll see you next time.

[uglyirishboss]

Amazing DIY Mobile Mitre Saw stand (with dust extraction)

hey guys, welcome back, I'm Jeff. Today'S video on stuff I made is about my miter saw station. So I'll go through the features of it and specifically the dust extraction. That'S centered at the back of the miter, saw it's very efficient. So I would like to share that with you, because my workshop is so compact and so small that it has to be mobile and the wings of it had to be fold up and fold out again so that on the occasion I need to cut long boards. I have that flexibility and in order to preach we made well, I needed really steady casters and I went for some nylon classes. Each one, I think, is rated to 250 kilos as well as being swivel is a locking caster as well. So I can lock it all four corners, which makes it very sturdy here. You can see the fence being folded up and the support swung out the hinge. Does the back run at the front, which is what you see on a lot of designs with a micro adjust there just to set the level, and you can see a space where you can easily fit your hand in to help close it now? My fence swings up also with a little clasp there and clips and allows you to swing it out to extend the link. This happens on both sides and this little crafts just pulled it in to 90 degrees, so 180 degrees, it's dead straight. I'Ve just folded up the other one there quickly, but it does have the double fold out on both sides. It uses the crank it with the stops. The two different types of stop once the swing up and then once the fixed stop, the fix. Stop can only be used when the full extension arm is open because it's it needs the space of the back of it. So I didn't produce a build video, but I do have some images from the process. So I'll show you those now just before we get on to dust extraction, so this is a simple pocket, hole, screws, construction and the top of the bottom overlaps body. This is to give a little bit of extra stability at the base so that the wheels can be as far out as possible, so the drawers a very basic construction about joints and screws, and then the handles are from scraps of oak. So I lit some reinforcement to the top of the main unit so that when I attach the wings I can slightly longer screws just to give it a little bit more strength. So here you can see it the Assembly of the wings of a loose drive. It originally, when the wind folded out, I was going to use a slide out piece to support the the second wing where I changed halfway through to use the clasp and the extended support underneath, and I found out to be enough. So attaching the wings was a look at the challenge I use these supports. Shimmed up the miter saw station and use a straight edge, clamp to the two wings to get everything aligned before making the final adjustments and screwing it all down. Okay. So, let's take a look at the dust extraction, so it has two points of dust extraction. One is the inbuilt saw, the six traction, which is just at the back of the blade there and then this second unit is just below the blade at the back there. I'M just showing you how easy is to unclamp and remove so if I needed to go into a 45 degree cut or a miter, miter angle compound cut, it's easy to remove and you forsake the dust extraction apart from the one at the back of the saw And this is how easy is to touch just align it to the blade and there's some hesitation there, because I want to give you a good view of this as good review as I can from the camera. So I'm filling in. But this is quite a quick process to just clamp it down, so it doesn't move when you're doing a cut and we'll just take a look at the other side. Okay, so repeat: a test cut without the second point of dust extraction attached and you can see how much dust it kicks up. I do this at full speed. First of all, and then I do it in slow motion, yelling mission trips, everything backing out without the piece of the bio, just chuck it up everywhere. I'Ll just show you this in slow motion. Now you can just see it going over there. So I'll show you this again on a wider board. Dust extraction is now all connected up. They shooting, through the group so I'll, cutting from back to front, because that groove in enhances how it fires into the dust extraction. You see how little kicked up then I'll show you again in slow motion and just watch the front of the cut. Now, as I move the blade back a few pieces of bouncing around and curling back in to the extraction. But you watch that shooting out that groove by doing a back to front cut, I'm literally catching 19-8 99 % of the dust on those type of cuts, and it's exactly the same that a thinner piece of wood like I'd just cut. Also, the Best Miter Saw station like this, gives you a load of additional storage, which is an added benefit. I won't show you all the drawers, because that the tool imperil and the rest are a mess. Okay, so that's my miter saw station. Hopefully you enjoyed that. If you did give me a thumbs up, also leave some comments if you've got questions and but most of all subscribe, so you don't miss my next video, alright guys thanks a lot and here's just a panorama workshop. I'M only doing this because I've just tidied it up. So it's a good opportunity to show you a little view of what that looks like

[uglyirishboss]

Advanced miter saw techniques (Easiest way to cut angles)

Welcome to sawdust in wood, this is Chris. Today, I'm going to teach you advanced, miter saw techniques, so I've got previous videos where I show you formulas to to figure out angles. You use angle finder and it's normally 180 minus the angle divided by 2, and it shows you where to sit. You might have saw 2 today, I'm going to show you a really easy way to take any angle divided by 2 and cut it. There'S no more math than that. It'S just divided by 2, or you can just say. I need a 30 degree angle and just come on the sole and put it on 30 and make your cut. But to do that, you need to understand that zero on your saw is actually 90. It'S actually a 90 degree cut. It'S a right angle and I'm going to show you a chart. That'S really gon na help, you understand it and then we're gon na. Do two examples? Ok, so this is how you need to start reading. Your miter saw - and I put some tape on here. Some people would just scratch out over these numbers and write these numbers because they don't even want to reference these anymore once they learn this trick. So if 90 is actually 0, 5 is 85 on down the line and 45 and 45 are true and anyone who's ever cut to 45 in me to 90 know what I'm talking about, because you go down further and say: ok! Well, I need an 80 degree angle and then you cut to 40s thinking that 240 degree angles are gon na give you a 80 degree cut, but it's really not. It gives you a hundred degree angle too. Cuz, it's really 50, so you want to make it a hundred degree cut when you thought you were making a 80 degree cut. Here'S the first pre-built angle, for example: number one y'all know how I like to do. I like to cut angles: put them together with two by fours: show you the angle and show you how to cut it on the saw. So here we go. Let'S see what the angle finder is showing 120 degree angle. Alright, all you got to do with this way is 120. Divided by 2 is 60 okay, we're over to the miter saw now, so we need a sixty to sixty degree angles to make 120. So we know zero is actually 90. We know 10 is actually 80/20. Is 70 and 30 is 60 and that's our cut so we're gon na move. The miter saw over 230 right on the money, clamp it down, and that is going to be a 60 degree angle. We'Re gon na cut two angles right here all right, so I got two pieces of wood. I'M gon na put a 60 degree angle on this side. A 60 degree angle on this side and it's gon na make a 120 degree angle. It'S a nod to saengil. I'M a first 60 degree cutter switch over to 30. Let'S go back to the angle we have built and see how it matches up all right, we're back to a 120 degree angle right here. I'M gon na put the trim on the inside because I got a screw right here when I school singing together. Scott end the week put our first piece in football second piece in my fits perfect. All I did was take 120 degrees divided by 2 and I got 260 degree cuts. Let'S move on to our next example. 50 degree angle, you knew I was gon na throw in a hard angle to cut a lot of people, have messaged me lately and are trying to cut stars for Christmas, and they are really struggling with making these cuts. So I'm gon na show you how to do that so 50. Degree angle: you need a 25 degree cut here and a 25 degree cut here just a vibe 50 into two. Let'S get to it all right, so we're back on the salt and we need to make 225 degree cuts to make that 50 degree angle. So, let's count backwards. 90. Remember the zero is 90. Everything goes backwards. We count down as we go backwards. 90. 80. 70. 60. 50. 40. I can't get to 25 degrees. On my saw. The sharpest angle I can cut is a 40 degree on this side and a 30 degree on this side. Cuz, this side goes to 60 and I need a 25 degree cut. Alright, so we established, we need a 50 degree. Angle divided by 2 is 25. We need 225 degree angles to make the 50 degree angle. When we counted back 490 starting at 0. We could not get to 25, so this song cannot cut a 25 degree angle as it is. I'M gon na teach you how to make a jig on your saw to cut acute angles. It'S really easy, so you come over to your song and I have this board clamped tightly against the fence down. That'S gon na be my jig. I'M gon na come to 45 on my saw block it make this alright and when I move this saw back to 0 or 90. Should I see - and this is back at 90 - I'm actually cutting a 45 degree cut I'll. Give you a quick example we're at 0, which is 90. This is a 45 degree cut. If I put a piece of wood right here, lining up on my jig and cut it's gon na cut 45 degrees so to get to 25 degrees. All I had to do now with this jig 0 is gon na be 45 and I'm a cow backwards, so I get to 25 45. 35 25, so 20 degrees is gon. Na give me a 25 degree cut with my jig in place. Saw is locked down now, I'm gon na put the camera up and make these cuts alright. So we got our jig in place with the jig. 0 is 45. We counted backwards to 20 45. Minus 20 gives you 25 and we need to 25 degrees cuts. So I'm gon na cut that right here, just right, 125 degree cut 225 degree cuts. This should be a perfect 50 degree angle. Let'S go check it all right here. Here is our instructional piece, it's a 50 degree angle and here the two pieces we just cut we'll put that on hold it down. I'M holding the camera too, but I hold it. That'S perfect. 50 degree angle cut with the jig when you saw 50 minus 2. Is 25 degrees you make 225 degree cuts. You can cut it with no problem thanks for watching today. I hope I showed you a new way how to cut angles. There'S links in the description below to all my previous videos, where I show other ways to cut all these angles, using the miter saws numbers as they appear. This is my personal favorite way to do it, because I can just divide whatever angle I have into to, and it gives me my cut. It'S really easy just to count backwards start at zero on your saw, call that 90 and then count backwards, and if you get in a cute angle, you just make this quick and easy jig and you can cut angles really easy thanks for watching. Please subscribe like and have a Merry Christmas [ Music ]

[uglyirishboss]

Adjusting A Miter Saw For Accurate Cuts

Okay, I want to get this fence lined up the first step that I do is I loosen this side of the fence over here. This fence is not one piece like a lot of the smaller size, it's two pieces and they move independently. So I'm going to just loosen this one up, I can figure out how the ratchet works and not worry about it right now, I'll be working on the other fence over there I'll push this one back. As far as you can go and just finger, tighten the bolts down again, mainly because it'll be just in the way I'm going to undo this little rotating fence here from the main fence. Next thing I take my ratchet again and loosen the bolts on this fence. Now that I've got that fence loosened up, I'm going to return, the saw janani make sure it's locked in tight and I'm going to tighten the handle too just for good measure, I'm going to bring the blade down, but I want to lift this guard up. So I'm just going to stuff this paper towel up inside there to hold it up now, just going to bring the saw down and lock it in position with the pin over here. The first thing I want to check before I go any further is how square the blade is to the bed, and I've got my combination square here to check that I'll slide it in against the side of the blade and look for any gap. That might be there. This looks pretty good. Your combination square doesn't have to be perfect, but I've got this one tuned up pretty. Well. If you want to see a video on how I did that made this one square, then it came from the factory. There'S a link in the description you do have to make sure that when you do this, that the square is not up against one of the carbide teeth and you want to make sure that there is no heavy gum buildup on the side of the blade. I recently changed this one, so it's still fairly clean and so I'm happy with the way that looks for now. I can do further adjustments later when I do an actual cut, with a saw and check that, but for now it's good will. Allow me to get this fence line up. It'S basically the same thing I take my combination square put it up against the blade, make sure not touching any teeth slide it back until it contacts the fence and then I'm going to push the fence until it lines up with the blade of the square. What I'm really only trying to do here is get this close. Now that I've got the fence closed, I'm going to tighten this furthermost bolt, the fence will still be able to move. It will be able to pivot back and forth at that point by tapping it forward or back as I need to okay for this next part, I've cut a strip of plywood a little bit wider than four inches wide wider, the better actually, but you really want To make it so that it's no wider than the saw can cut through without sliding it back and forth. This is a sliding saw, so it can obviously cut a wider piece, but you really want to concentrate on what it does just by swinging down without the slide right now. The first thing I want to do here is make sure that the edge of my plywood is clean. Tie it up against the fence, hold it tight up against the kind of slide it up to where I can make a cut just to check the see. How squared is at this point now I'm going to take that and have a look at it with my square to see exactly how square the cut is. According to this, like I say, we're trying to get it close here, not exactly perfect just yet, but this is looking very good. It'S a little bit open on this end, but not very much with the cut open on the front here. That means that the fence has to come further out, so I'm just going to make that adjustment by tapping it with a piece of wood. But first I want to make a mark. I'Ve got a block of wood here with up tight against the fence, and then I've got a very sharp pencil and I'm going to make a mark right on the bed of the saw to indicate where the fence is right. Now that way, I'll be able to move it out, a very small amount just to cover that pencil mark. Now that I've moved the fence, I can make another cut off the edge and try it again. Okay, that's a lot closer! That'S nearly perfect! Actually, what I'm going to do now is I'm going to move the fence again, very slightly recut it again. What I'm looking for is for it to be perfect on the square here before I go to the next step. Well, I made a couple more cuts and a couple more adjustments, but I think I'm as close as I can be with the square right now. The next thing I'm going to do is make a cut clean through I'm going to leave about four or five inches on the other side. Go all the way through one swipe. The key to using a miter saw effectively - and you know accurately, is to not wrench it from side to side. As you make the cut you want to hold it not loosely, but not overly tightly either just make a smooth, even cut right down through the wood. Without moving it around, it's the moving in a round part that you know kills the cut. Now you hear people talk about the in accuracy of these saws because they have a lot of play. But if you look at a handsaw, how much play this? It'S free in your hand, after all you're making the cut so same principle here you have to have a little bit of experience and skill when you're using a saw to get absolutely perfect cuts. Okay, what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take that block that I just cut off and I'm going to flip it over 180 degrees and then supply my other piece longer piece down against the fence and I'm going to take this piece and slide It in against it, assuming of course, that the fence is perfectly straight, which this one is. I checked it already. This will give you an idea of how close your cut is too perfect. Okay, that looks really good to me. That'S as far as I'm going to take it, you can go further with the five cut method. You do it exactly the same way as you do it on the table. Saw you make one cut turn the board rotate. The board 90 degrees make another cut and then 90 degrees, again another cut and so on and so forth. I'Ll leave a link to the five cut method in the description for those that are interested in this. But for me this is going to be fine. As far as the other settings on the saw they should be accurate, it depends upon the quality of the saw that you're buying. This is a very well-made saw and the other detent locations for the other angles like 22 and a half 45 degrees they're very accurately set. So I don't have to mess with anything after making it 90 degrees. So I'm just going to take my ratchet and tighten up that bolt so that this is the position it gets locked in and then I'm going to test it again, because when you tighten the bolt, the fence can move a very small amount and it's always a Good idea to test it again, I'm going to make these bolts as tight as I possibly can without stripping them. I don't want this to move well with this side of the fence done. I can line up the other one here. I'Ve got a level that is as close to a straight edge as I have so I'm just going to hold that tight up against this fence, move this one over. So it's flat up against it and then tighten the bolts watch and make sure that it stays lined up. Okay, you probably thought we were done, but not quite now that the fence is lined up both sides and I'm happy with that. I want to double check the squareness to the bed, the blade as it comes down, so I've taken the same piece of wood. I had before I've got it held down tight against the bed of the saw held up tight against the fence and I'm going to make a cut and I'm going to check that with the square and basically I'll be doing exactly the same thing as I did On the flat, but vertically and I'll be adjusting the stop. The positive stop for the saw as it swings over that's something you can do on every saw, there's always some kind of a bolt or something that you can loosen up so that when the soft swings back up to 90 degrees, that's if it's a compound tilt! One that is it'll, stop against that and that'll be perfectly 90 degrees to the bed. So, as it turns out, the vertical is still in perfect alignment. I didn't have to do anything with it made the cuts there to check it double-check. This is a good thing to do. Everyone slow off right out of the box. This saw was set up perfectly actually for 90 degrees to the bed like that, I didn't have to do anything with it, and I've owned this soft for more than six years. I think about it in 2008. I do believe - maybe 2009, so had it for a long time. Okay, now that it's all set up, I'm going to do one more thing, and I really don't like doing this because it wastes plywood that I have here, which I could probably use for something else. But I'm going to make a series of 45-degree cuts into kind of a picture frame and then put it together and see how well it fits to get the parts of the same length thing is just going to make a mark on the bed to line them Up with okay, well, that looks pretty good to me. These miners are pretty long to five and a half inches. I use the sliding function on the saw to make them so not bad for a tool. That'S not supposed to be very accurate anyway, having a problem holding it up anyway. I hope you enjoyed it and I'll see you next time.

[uglyirishboss]

Disappearing Miter Saw Stand: The Video

This is the pivoting top miter stand that I designed a long time ago. I mean it's based off some of the ideas that I saw in small workshop solutions, which is put out by Woodsmith magazine and the same concept. They have one where they put a planer on one side and I believe, a drum sander on the other or something like that. In my case, I want to work surface because I really don't use the miter saw that often so it's on the underside here. But what I did is I created this larger box and the reason why is it's offset this side here comes up considerably higher than where the miter saw will come up and I'll show you that after I rotate it? The reason being is, I wanted this to be the same height as my other work bench here. So when I span material across it, it acts as just an extension which is really useful when I'm cutting things on the offcut side of the MFT. That this is the same idea, so the way it locks into place is, I just have to Cotter less pins here, so you just pull this out a little bit till it disengages and the side here, as you can see, it flows pretty easily grab the handle. The miter saw, and as I pull it up, just push the pins back, in which I can never do with my left hand, pivot there we go, don't find it, so it goes pretty quick. The way that this thing here is designed is the reason why there's that offset is what, if I get junk items here out of the way the deck is at the same height and suspension out too. So when I lay out some long wood that I want to cut some moldings or even some rough wood that I want to bring down the sides, I can put it out on this bench here and it's all flat and level that works out very, very well. For me, so the design of this top I mean, like I said it's just a simple, just a simple box. I made it so I could get access inside here. It turns out that that's actually, where I put the power key for the miter, saw it's tucked in in the back, since that's where it plugs in is in the wall back there, but also it makes it that on this other surface, I don't have any holes Board in it yet, but when I get I'm getting another bench top drilled, I've been saying this now for over a year, but when I get that one drilled the offcut of will be put in here, so I have basically dog holes just like I have on The MFT, but on this surface here, which will be really useful for clamping down items on this table, so that's the reason I wanted to be able to have access to the inside. So the way the stand is set. I mean this is just a frame here. I reached this MDF is recessed into it. The reason why is I put some shim boards in there on the inside. I made a little shelf for this board to sit on top of, and that way there I could adjust it to get it to the right amount of height off of here. Knowing the height of this table, picking an arbitrary height, I mean it's adjustable because this driveways on a slope I picked the height. That was, you know, keeping this table level. I made it so that now, when I flip it this top surface and this surface here are both the same height when they go through the rotation. So it's really easy to build. I mean the rest of this is just a three sided box, a full frame and panel on this side. Here there's a panel that goes along the back and I'll bring the camera in to show that to you and then I just mounted it on some tool wheels so mobile, wheels that I lock into place, but once you have it in place, all you do is Just take a clamp and clamp it here and drill a hole for the Cotter, less pin and push it in. So the way this pin works. The reason why it will hold it so still is that there is a bearing in the end that you know it's spring-loaded, so it'll push back in so yeah the first time you push that in you got to push really hard and now that I pulled it Out I got a gon na, get it in the same place so that it'll stick just as well. There we go, but that's the reason why it holds so well, it's pretty stable. I mean this wiggle side to side because there isn't as much of a border here, but I was actually thinking of. If that becomes an issue. There is a tea track here. On the side of this table, I was going to use it to lock it to this table, just to add some stability, and then you could actually do stock blocks on this table, but I haven't found a useful enough need for it. Yet so it's not like there's a heck of a lot to see down here, but you're going to see it there's just a simple back panel that goes in the back. You could have made it a little bit higher, but it turns out that you have to account for the swing of this large panel. So basically, I just had these two sides on and then I mounted this on its pivot point and then I swung it down to figure out the highest point that I could put that. Third, almost more like a vanity panel back there so and then there's a piece that goes across and then there's a floor which actually is useful for putting a few things. Although not much because you have to leave room for the swing, you can stack stuff on the side go and but that also adds a lot more to the stability. So if I were to have you look inside, you can see that there's just some simple tea. Nuts that are holding the miter saw to the MDF. ( https://sawwiz.com/best-miter-saw-reviews/ )You can also see the boards that I put in place. Those are just a bunch of scrap boards. I put in place to create the the ledge to get it at the appropriate height, and then I put some batten boards across the MDF, knowing it wasn't going to be all that strong with a miter saw hanging on it upside down. It'S been there now for well over a year and that thing is still flat. So I'm happy with that part. So if I show you more of the pivot point, all it is, is it's a quarter? Twenty bolt going through there, I put a washer on it and then there's a awesome neoprene there to keep it. So it doesn't quite scratch up all the wood and dig its way in the portion here in between. There is a nylon washer that the you know acts as a friction point between these two, so it slides easily. Then, on the inside back there you can see the other end of the screw comes in. I just put some just a simple nut on there and and then a neoprene washer, so it doesn't get any simpler than that. That'S it!

[uglyirishboss]

20-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion 7-1/4 in. Cordless Miter Saw - DCS361M1

Today, I'm so is an action. You guys we're going over something long awaited. What is it Eric very long? Wait. It'S a new drill, yeah, it's a pretty cool job as a hammer yeah. It wants to be know. You guys today we're going over their new cordless aw. It'S been rumored, it's been around they've been in Europe. Other brands make them. You know they're all in there, but for actually two watt, which is one of the king of miter, saw in my opinion, you got. The DWS 780 grid saw a great saw. Great. All around construction site saw, you know, true, solid, build, you know and a lot of construction guys like that saw, and they want to stick with that brand and a lot of construction guys have 20 volt mm-hmm. So they come out with this 20 boys and seven and a quarter yep seven and a quarter 20 volts on now. First thing, you're saying and a lot of people that I talk to forget that that's right, yeah we're going to the default the wall to vent. It'S not useless. I'M gon na tell you right now. This is gon na handle 90 % of all your cuts. Yes, especially because other way for the two, it's six yeah. Well, that's your framer! You know, if you're doing a frame of your frame of the house that you're doing six by sixes it'll cut a six by six yeah, but you got Turner earning, but that and portability guys even for the regular homeowner. Just to have this, you don't have to unwrap it power I mean weighs like 30-something pounds. What does it weigh? Ah, let me look that up there, for you 31 pounds so, and they really put two handles in the side, so you can carry it like this. I know when I did a flooring job recently at Paul's house and we took the DWS 780. Third, oh my god, that's insane! It was just hard heavy big and we just didn't need that big capacity saw no, that would've been perfect for us yeah. All we were doing was cutting flooring and a little bit of trim. Now I know what other people are saying: oh the battery's not gon na last. You guys you're gon na get up to over a hundred and 275 cuts through three and a quarter pine baseboard. 183 cuts by regular pine 2x4. So you know you could always have a battery on charger. You always have an extra few batteries. Ajanta thing already three cuts out of just two by fours I mean that's, that's good yeah! It'S pretty good! It'S about five volt battery! Um, I don't you know what Eric I don't know won't spoil it down. I want to say it came to the fore. I was a little bit shocked. I wanted to say, came with a four oh reader way. It doesn't just says 20 volt back DC. Look up DC b2 or it's okay, yeah! That'S, alright! We'Re good either way. You know, you're gon na need more than one battery for this most likely, but it does come with a battery and it does come with a charge. Doesn'T it you can get mad as a bear or you can get them with the battery charger? So you can get the kit, which is the m1 or you can get the bear tool? Gotcha. Okay, um! You guys just shoot a form with dEWALT's big bad D. Degree or 780 even has the expirience laser system on it. Um laser system, it's not as good as the XPS. I don't think yeah, which is weird cuz they're, both a light they're both got that nice line right when you pull it down to the wood. You see it I mean yeah. Obviously, though, if you're a bright light, it's I don't care I've, never seen a laser, don't yeah bright way, didn't work right, but the reason I I'm not like saying wow, it's awesome, because the XPS is awesome because you don't have to adjust it. It'S just a shadow where that shadow is, is your exact cut? It'S just. You can't really see it till you're, almost right on the work yeah, you know and, like Eric said, daylight conditions. You know you probably want to use it inside what else we got on this thing. Eric it's got me. It'S got your to everything that you'd see in a regular saw. It'S got the bevel card. It'S got all my me, giggles bevel single yeah, that's true! So it's got that it's got the miter cuts with the details so who tighten this oh come on. I didn't tighten that yeah. You did on tighten it right there. So there you got your Bible, you guys! You got your slide as far as the slide goes. I would say, and what is it look like it's 49 degrees for the bevel? 45? No clothes, hair 11:45. No, it doesn't here's what those it's 45 and the slide feels pretty quality quality. It'S got a nice wide. It feels good, you know, comes with your standard dust collection bag, but you can go ahead and plug it into a dust management system personally these bags suck, but you do need them because if we were cutting right now be shooting all over this TV. So you do need something I think the Bell was like 49 or something now it's 45, it's centered on it. 45. I don't know you're right Eric's right, I'm sorry! It is 49. You are right. Yeah! I cannot see. Oh no show up. I did screw up. Well, you better go to tool guide, um! You guys right here, you got your positive detents. You know fine they're, common ones, twenty-two and a half, and all that yep twenty-two and a half 25 45, and it goes a little more than 449 okay. So I don't know man I I like, because you know what I don't, especially if you're just gon na cut a piece here there too I mean yes, you can do a lot of cuts that go same with the pine and all that. Well, there's a lot of times where it's just sitting over there. We want oh quick cut. You can just pop it right on the back of your truck pop it on the ground sawhorse, but you're gon na move around yeah. But here's what I tell everybody - everybody man, you know small cut - think of when you're using your 73 cartridge. So how many times you've been like man. I wish this thing had a miter. I wish I could make straight cuts or perfect angles with this. Without you know, jigging something up here, it is mm-hmm. You know thank you for the 7 3/4, like you said, 7, 3/4. Yes, seven and a quarter. Oh they say free quarters. Yeah. I just flip flip flip man. We should well. Don'T worry, you guys will edit and redo all that, so we come off as professionals. You know know if you want professionals go elsewhere, but professionals do you love us? Why? Because we're a couple of crazy ass guys stay alive. What'S that woody? What is love? Those guys are come: oh yeah, oh geez overnight that bad now, crazy, guys, uh Barbara Bach right on the front, got your tool here to change your blade. You know, I can't really say enough, you guys do your warranty and I know everybody thinks I'm with the Walt fan. I am a dwarf and I do like to walk and I really think this is a good stop. I love this thing. I did you know what the price suit is 399 euros. It is it 399 or 48. I seen him at Home Depot, I want to say they might even be $ 2.99. What are they at Home Depot check it out? I was checking Amazon well, no Home Depot's got better prices in Amazon for big black yeah, but they got free shipping on let's 390 nice free shipping, but you guys can get it at home people they have stacks of them if you're looking for any minor. This is the one to get. I mean yeah, 12-inch, minors are nice. You can cut a lot more bigger material with a cam but they're heavier they're bulkier I mean yeah. You don't need them that much unless you're building a house or something huge you know. So definitely you guys take a look at this thing. Let us know what you think, I'm gon na go out on a limb. I mean I'm not going out on a limb. I'M just telling you this is, if I only had to have one miter saw forever it'd be this I'd borrow 12 from Erik or someone else yeah I mean it is a lot of the stuff you cut in our 2x4 or 2x6 is stuff like that. I, for the most part you know, yeah I mean my under starts: take up space dude, okay, especially with stands where it understands yeah. I mean look at storing this thing, yeah compared to just storing your own and that one folds up nicely, but still I mean, even if you have it on your bench, it takes up a lot of room yeah. This is nice because you know what you can do. You can throw this right underneath your bench when you're not using it. It'S not, and you know once it's on top of your bed. Jug add I want it sort of 12-inch, take it down and up so yeah. I mean I really like this stuff. The wall is not sponsor of ours. Well, you know not yet not yet, but if you like our view, though we're getting, I mean, like I said you guys, I love it. I think it's cool. So how do you feel about it? It'S alright! No! I really like that. Guy'S cool, that's cool. I was a little skeptical when we first kind of saw and heard about it, but actually got a lot of use out of it here doing different things and it's I got ta say it's nice and for the capacity it's powerful enough, whatever you can fit in It it's gon na cut, you know you can just grab it by the handle. Go walking around granted, don't bang it into the side of your truck yeah. It may cause a scratch. Why you guys? Don'T forget click on the bottom. We got patreon. We need your guy's help, so you keep these tour of yours going and not depend on the big corporation. So much and then we want to thank you. Oh we'll take your sponsors yeah, but if you guys are become comp, why can't the top? If you guys are a big corporation and you want to throw a few million at us, you know we're more than happy to take yeah. You know. What'S so rubber dog crap from China, yeah no kidding yeah, you guys were just in a mood today, but some people do think that. But we give our honest opinions here. I'M told an actually, but we do have our favorite brands. They may not be good opinions but their opinion, so they don't get opinions yeah two guys who like tools like mess around stuff and consumers, we're consumers just like you and that's about the crew, the crews about all of us. So thank you. Guys! Click up! Subscribe! Click like tell us what you feel down below what you think of this or other saws we're just like hearing your feedback engage across the tools in Action Network cuz. You are part of the crew, my partner, I did a part of me again. Oh, does he do that yeah member Barnaby he's all with his daughter who was an action remember for more exciting tool. Action brought a tools in action; dot-com

[uglyirishboss]

$20 DeWALT Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Just saw craigslist posting, I was number two on the list. The first guy didn't show I'm getting a 12 inch sliding compound miter saw for 20 bucks. The guy says that it needs new bearings or something. So I don't know if I'm going to be able to fix it, I'm going to take a look at it $ 20 and that's not bad. If anything, I've got like a whole carcass. Maybe I can put together the compound for the miter saw. I have now with this lighting one I don't know, let's go check it out. I'M excited [ Music ], you [ Applause ], all right there. It is, gets loaded it up. [, Music, ], take it home. What'S that, and why is that hanging? This was to be in there and up up and let's pin it now yeah. This is some ball bearings all right. I think it's time to go to Amazon, see if we can find some Viking buy parts for 50 bucks. That'S a $ 70 song I'll be cool. With that. Oh look, look, look, look, look, look, look, look! Look there! We go. Maybe all I need to buy use this little part right here. Sorry, alright! So I'm excited to see. Of course, I'm excited when I got this, I just started taking apart. I didn't look at any videos or anything like that, so I ordered this part on Amazon and I think it was right directly from Dewalt on Amazon. There'S a link in the description below that'll. Take you right to it. I just got it in I'm hoping it's the right part, we'll open it up and find out. There were two of them for $ 20, and that includes shipping, because on mine, amazon, prime, where I live sure not man, those look like they're the right size, so parrot here, good old casing or a business baby. So this is the tricky part to get this off, and this is probably going to be even trickier. A lot of the guys are using like a pulley system. I don't even know what they call it a bearing puller or something, but I watched a guy heat. This with the heat gun to kind of expand it, and then you pop it right off and that's what I'm going to try. [ Applause ]. Look at that! Let'S see, there's a groove right there. You want to try to just walk this up little by little. So you get it out of the groove one: what's there where we come, why why not? I went down to my local car auto shop. They had one of the eve, a ran into one of my son's friends father's and he said taking home, give it a try. So here we are, I picked it up and it's not under the pulley, it's in the groove of the pulley. We try to do it. I'M not touching that plastic. I'M going to try it with the rubber doesn't seem to be working that way. It'S probably a dumb idea. Let it work now you just figure out how to get that want to hear it damn it. I even record it I did it, I put it. I wised it got on it seated my plan for reassemble aluminum. That'S why, along the grooves up moves here, [ Applause ] without a little screw right there, it's a tension screw and when you push that in it pushes against that and pulls it back. And that's where you get this tension, get your brushes out of the way. Just pull back these springs here and that allows your brushes to move out of the way put the pressures back in all right. So I just put everything back together without giving it a test drive, but I'm going to plug it in right. Now we're going to find out if my simple 20 Allah fix is really the problem whew. That'S a nice brand new, pretty little thing that in there slides goes down, let's plug her in give it a shot, got a nice piece of two by eight right here. Give her a try: a $ 20 $ 20, really woodworker out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miter_saw

[uglyirishboss]

10 Inch Miter Saw Comparison

You guys have been asking us to do: a miter saw head-to-head today's a day we're in the shop with seven different brands, we're looking at we're looking at major features like dust collection, speed, power, mobility and, of course, price. Let'S get started, our goal is to provide insights from seasoned pros, arming you with all the information you need to invest in a miter saw. You know it's important to find the right saw to fit your needs at your price and we've dug deep into these saws and the individual features and specifications. We also put it through some pretty rigorous testing. We looked at seven brands. We looked at Bosch craftsman, Dewalt, Festool, Hitachi, vaquita and Ryobi, and we looked at some pretty important categories that we felt you were important to you. It looked at dust collection, power, mobility, value and well, as categorized best jobsite saw shop, saw and innovative saw. Let'S talk about Bosch, Bosch is known for its axial glide system, and this SAR this. The system reduces the footprint of a traditional rail slide. So you could push this thing up against a wall and the axial glide system provides a much stiffer mechanism up top for precise cuts. The the torsional strength is just so much stiffer and you just get about standing accuracy. Unfortunately, this saw weighs 63 pounds. It was 10 pounds heavier than the next saw, so you might want to leave in the shop. It was so heavy while extremely accurate. It performed poorly in our dust collection test. Don'T fret, though, overall we all felt that the Bosch axial glide saw was all about accuracy. Precision all with that compact footprint sells for around $ 5.99 craftsman has a 39 % smaller footprint, and it has a couple of top-of-the-line features that a lot of people would like. It has an innovative rail design. So it's compact an adjustable laser guide and it comes with a 60 tooth factory blade. The side did very well in our power testing and exceptionally well in our dust collection. It won our value award and it comes in just on the 300 bucks. The wall Dewalt miter saw is our jobsite legends, the DeWalt, our is a no frills highly capable saw that delivers power accuracy. The DeWalt saw exhibited good das collection, solid power and was really convenient to carry and sells for $ 469. When you think of precision, consistency and speed, what do you think of well most carpenters will say: Festool capex, Festool capex saw was designed to be integrated in dust collection systems and ensure surgically precise cuts from the simplicity of the integrated cord wrap on the back to The super effective dust collection system that collected 24 percent more dust than the competitor saws we looked at just blew him away. This saw has dual lasers unique features and one-of-a-kind capabilities that really make it stand out and at $ 1,400 a price stands out too. It'S one of those saws that people say you get what you pay for Hitachi. The Hitachi R is one of the usual suspects on the job site. It'S known for being lightweight large cutting capacity, has durable durability and pretty much. What you would expect in a pro grade saw. This saw, has no frills, no surprises, it's heavy duty and it has exceptional accuracy and power. We especially like the ambidextrous handle and the fact that it is such a straightforward and intuitive saw to use itachi one our mobility testing, because it was so lightweight and easy to carry it also performed exceptionally well. In dust collection sells for $ 4.99 Makeda, the makita miter saw was a crew favorite during our testing. It really caught our eye with its innovative dual rail forward facing slide mechanism and the new rail slide mechanism really reduces, though the rear footprint of the saw, and it delivers some really smooth results, Makita one hour power test, and it was easy to use and super Accurate, the Sun did not do well in our dust collection, but it pretty much wanted us across the board on everything else. Makita sauce is going to come in just under $ 500. Lastly, we looked at Ryobi Ryobi is geared towards the homeowner in DI wire and it falls short for pros pretty much in its miter bevel ranges and overall performance, but we wanted to look at it. It'S a super-lightweight saw ( https://sawwiz.com/best-miter-saw-reviews/ ) It has some high-end features like a solid cut capacity, above-average dust collection, and it's priced super competitively at just about $ 200. It was the most affordable saw. We looked at so which star is the best song. That'S like saying what is the best pick-up line when you're in a bar? Well, it's the one that works for you of course, right I'm kidding, but I'm serious. It'S all three editors, pretty much disagreed on what was the best song each one, citing different reasons and applications fill Benavidez felt that the best job site saw was Makita and Phil stated that having a saw like Makita that was super accurate, mobile and powerful enough to Cut engineered, loving a lumber and pressure treated wood super important according to Todd Fraxel, the best shops are was bashed and and Todd cited. Upfront controls, excellent power accuracy, the innovative design of that axial glide system, torsional, greater strength and stability. Todd feels that Bosch was the perfect saw when you consider overall, considered price options and performance. What about me well, in my line of work, precision cuts matter. The Festool was an incredibly precise saw. It was it's a well-designed saw, and it's just it's way ahead of its time compared to the other saws, it was the most advanced and innovative sliding compound saw that I tested so I awarded at the Innovation Award we're hoping that all of this information that we've Given you folks will help guide you through the myriad of our information on the market, there's a lot of stuff to consider. You should be considering stuff like dust collection, power, mobility and, of course, price. All of those things matter to you as a consumer, I'm Rob Roblin, we'll see you at the next head-to-head test on toolbox, buzz, calm, take care,

[uglyirishboss]

10 Best Miter Saws 2018

Wicked, on easybib.com such easy, it wiki before you decide easy to present that endless mitre sauce. Let'S get started with the list, starting of our list at the lieutenant designed for everyday use and the DIY arcs at Delta home craft age, 26. 260. L is a handy tool that weighs just 25 pounds. I need to be easily carried from one one station to the next. Without overexertion, the damage bait can be locked for easy replacement, should include the battery powered laser and was with almost all fans over it's not as dirty as other options at number. Nine, the Metabo kg/s 305 cross cuts material up to twelve and a half inches wide and an impressive four and three-quarter inches thick. Its uses that market attenders ideal for repetitive jobs and a unique duct collection system efficiently removes debris through the base of the unit, resulting in an easy cleanup. It comes with a three year warranty and slip, stop controls for depth, but it doesn't come with a laser guide coming in at the mic, a journalist to when 7:07 one sec. Sliding compound allows you to bevel anywhere from 0 to 45 degrees, to the left and my director 52 degrees in both directions offering most of the versatility. You need it's a great option for the whole obvious, looking for a basis all purpose or backed by a one-year warranty and design freedom. Portable, however, is not as accurate as other models to see. All of our choices go to wiki done, easybib.com and search for microsoft or click beneath this video number seven suggests JMS wanting AMS utilizes, a patented exact, a laser that can be used about your movements and helping to avoid mistakes and corrections. Battle is ergonomically designed and hangs over the unit, giving you maximum control over your work. It offers a dual bevel capability and easy access controls for safety, but the lasers could be positioned, better moving apalis to number six for home projects, unlike commercial jobs, with the ryobi 10 inch 15 MV. The unit features an integrated laser allows for more precise showings as well as classical capability and then extended range for making a variety of strokes. It features a carbide, tipped blade and the dual view puzzle scale for easier use, however, and is not included after our list. At number, five with a large table and extended flip fence, the best selling guitars EC 10 s ce2 is made for both the professional and recreational carpenter. The 0 to 52 degree market angle range offers increased flexibility, while the soft vibration reducing handle, provides true comfort. It'S available with or without a laser and is the lightest unit in its class. It'S a good value for the price at number 4, with a 15 amp motor that makes easy work out of hard lumber. The Milwaukee 695 5-20 is a good option for the school's work worker. It'S built with integrated life that fully illuminate your project so as well suited for working in darker settings. You can adjust angle to a tenth of a degree and it features a digital readout for extreme accuracy. However, it is too heavy to carry around during the top of our list at number. Three. The first tool, compacts and 120 features a litany of professional quality functions, making it capable of handling even the most demanding of jobs. It'S compacted economic design, safe space, while I'm offering increased, precision and effectiveness it's made in Germany and offers a dual alignment. I left alright cut and a locking hand for improved safety, see all of our choices, got a wiki, easybib.com and search for my cursor or click beneath this video number. 2. Easy 15 Abi's winning feature is an electric brake that can stop the blade in seconds and preventing unintended counts. Its sturdy base handles a variety of stocks and its massive 15 inch blade could tackle almost any material. You need chopped with a simple pass. The closed a sturdy extension that prevents warble and wide support rails, it's tall enough for vertical mouldings and in the sunspot analyst at the world. Dw s 780 features a rugged design and a powerful motor making this a durable option. That'S built along the brand experience alignment system enables precise cutting without constant recalibration. I leave to get the job done quicker and with less hassle, so solid workhorse with great reviews and includes a new handle designed for portability and an optional rolling stand to see. All of our choices go to wiki, easybib.com and search for best sliding miter saw or click beneath this video. No

[uglyirishboss]

5 Quick Mitre Saw Hacks - Woodworking Tips and Tricks

You know what we haven't done, yet we haven't done any miter saw hacks and that's exactly what we're going to do today, hello, everyone, I'm calling Canet before we go over to the saw. I want to do a quick reminder. If you haven't already subscribed, I invite you to do that. I click that little notification bell and let's get over to the miter saw so this is a sliding miter saw and the reason it's a sliding miter is because it slides it can slide into the wood. If this were a top saw, it would only go up and down and what I'm going to show. You are some systems that you can use on either. One of these saws now, when you're using a chop, saw very often you're doing repetitive cuts, and what that means is that if you use something called a stop block - and this is what a stop block looks like now - this is a stop block. Now you can use any old piece of wood. I don't do that because I like to have a little cutaway down here and the purpose of that is. You will always get sawdust on the face of this and when you get sawdust in the corner, it's very hard to get out. Unless you do this little kind of way. Let me show you so there's that stop block. There'S the sharp side. There'S the side with the cutaway. Now, when I put that on there and when I put a little bit of sawdust in there watch what happens it that when you try and move that block up, there see there's a gap in there. So then, when you try and move that sawdust away and I'm just flicking it away with my finger, what happens? Is it still doesn't but properly, but look what happens when you use the cutaway, even when you put sawdust in there? If I can get enough in there and even when you, but it look at how much sawdust I've got in there and it's still even there - it's still almost biting up there. But look at it's so much easier to get that away. And even if there is sawdust left look at that it still butts up nice and clean. So it's just a much quicker, better way. Cutting that little notch out and having this handy will make sure that your wood is always going to be able to get butted up so that you get proper lengths cut and so the way you attach these. Basically, you just clamp them to the fence of your saw and if you've got bar clamps, I've got a hole in it. In case I want to use one of these bar clamps, but you know what I'm finding. I prefer my little clamps and remember. We talked about cutting your clamps and putting your own little knob on the top of it and here's another perfect example of where that works so nicely. You don't have to worry about the bars getting in the way. It'S quick and easy, and now you've got a perfect way of clamping wood to get replicated good results from time to time when I'm cutting wood. Sometimes I cut it a little bit long on purpose, and sometimes I accidentally cut it just a little bit long. Just a hair - and I like to get a nice tight fit and the way you can do that, rather than trying to cut a tiny bit of wood off by slicing down like that, the other thing you can do is bring your saw blade all the way Down take your wood and butt it up. To that then turn your miter saw reviews on and slowly let the saw the carbide in the blade will just graze the end of that wood, and let me show you exactly what it does. [ Applause ] see that and that just took that pencil off of there and it just glazed the end of it just to shave a very, very small amount off, so that if you were making up needed to make a perfect cut, that's one of the ways To do that very often when you're cutting dowels on a sliding miter, what will happen is when the blade touches the DAO it'll, often spin, and for most people it startles them. I know it always startles me because I'm I'm not always expecting it, but what I've learned is that if you make a little V block and all that's all this is it's just a scrap piece of wood with a V cut in and now I should tell You this is not a 45-degree angle, and here what I found that is, if you make that a little bit less. I think this is about a sixty degree angle. In here it it actually tends to grab the dowling better so that when you do want to make a cut, it doesn't roll on you and you can make nice crisp cuts. One of the things I get asked a lot is, after you've made a cut. Why do you wait for the blade to stop before you? Let the the mechanism come back up and there's a few reasons. First of all, it's just a safety habit that I learned a long long time ago, and it's just stuck with me, but very often I'm making rep rep repetitive cuts, and I, for example, I may have a stop block here and I'm running up to it and When you cut that, if you don't let the blade stop, if it's still spinning, when the blade is spinning - and it comes back up very often - it can throw out this piece of wood - that's in here. Sometimes it will actually move your stop block and you might not realize it and when it throws this piece of wood out, sometimes it will gouge it at the same time, and you know you're doing really fine cuts, banding and things like that or any kind of A fine cut, you don't want your wood to be gouged, doing that it only takes a second t