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THE HOBBIT'S LAIR
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1052 | tamarillo and eucalyptus jelly with frozen peach sphere [ 2004 ]
1306 | tomato in syrup with egg yolk spherical-I, frozen rhubarb cream, pistachio maltomigas and pistachulines tous [ 2006 ]
1085 | two-tone carrot and beetroot snaps [ 2004 ]
1451 | fizzy candy paper [ 2007 ]
999 | Campari seeds, mandarin concentrate and candy floss paper with basil leaves [ 2004 ]
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565 | venus brownshells with cherries and seaweed sorbet [ 1999 ]
666 | young pine nut ravioli and yellow chanterelle purée in pine oil [ 2000 ]
TAPAS
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Gorgonzola Globe
Caviar Cream w Hazelnut Caviar
Pond - a crystal-clear layer of mint flavored ice with match tea and brown sugar atop. This was perhaps the most creative course of the night. Its concept was both functional, and cool. Our waitress instructed us to break the ice, and hold the dish with our two hands close to our face while eating it. My girlfriend thought this was glass and double-checked if it was ok: that's how clear the ice layer was. This was a beautiful concept, cool and fresh. Really not that sweet, the flavors were intense and true. Holding it near my face felt like a cool gust of arctic air. It really felt refreshing.
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[Gazpacho] This plate combines a number of features of El Bulli’s style in the Nineties. The tomato water ice is the first example of frozen savoury cuisine and there is a new symbiosis between sweet and savoury, overcoming the boundaries previously found between mains and puddings. It is also an example of cocina enmoldada: the preparation is served in a container similar to a champagne glass, which supports its light texture.
Due to its subjective character, minimalism is perhaps the most difficult style to define. According to El Bulli, it could be said that a minimalist dish is one that creates the most magic with the least ingredients. The best example of this is the minimalismo de bocado, where all the magic is conveyed in a single mouthful. The huevo de codorniz caramelizado consists of a poached quail’s egg caramelised through a special technique developed in 1996, which creates a crunchy bite with a liquid centre.
New parameters were added with the introduction of the ‘sixth sense’ in El Bulli‘s cuisine. It wasn’t only about pleasure of the senses, but also intellectual appreciation of the dish. Two important parts of the sixth sense are playfulness and irony, both found in the plato de las especias. A green apple jelly serves as ‘support’ for twelve spices and aromatic herbs. The names of these are revealed to the diner, but not their order: this is how the idea of play made its entrance into El Bulli’s cuisine.
Another parameter of the sixth sense is provocation. In 1997, when the debate about foams was at its height, El Bulli served a snack that was specially created to provoke a reaction in the diner. The espuma de humo is a small glass filled with smoked water foam and served with oil, salt and croutons. The idea was for the diner to ‘eat smoke’.
From 2003, El Bulli created a number of dishes inspired by nature, such as tierra (earth), nieve (snow) and deshielo (thaw). It was soon recognised that they formed part of a new style, which was subsequently called natura (nature). Deshielo was inspired by a photo of the ice melting in spring with the first shoots sprouting out of the frozen blanket.
(https://www.theworlds50best.com/stories/News/12-iconic-dishes-el-bulli-ferran-adria.html)
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forbidden city
In the Pavilion of the Purification Ceremony, there is a twisting water channel measuring twenty-seven metres long. It was designed in accordance with the verse of "a twisting water channel for floating wine cup and enjoying the drinking festival" in The Preface for the Orchid Pavilion Gathering written by Wang Xizhi of the Jin dynasty(265-420). Modelling himself on Wang Xizhi, the Emperor and his ministers often sat along the channel composing poems and drinking.
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A sushi odyssey: Old-fashioned and bulky conveyer belts are being replaced by a more compact single-track systems and touchscreens at kaiten (conveyer belt) sushi restaurants in Tokyo. | COURTESY OF SUSHI NOVA
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Inside the creative world of conveyor-belt restaurants
On a recent visit to San Francisco, I stopped for lunch in Japantown. Online reviews had called the place I picked a “sushi train” restaurant, but when I entered, there were no tiny locomotives towing nigiri in sight. Perhaps, I thought, as I ordered off a touchscreen, because of the pandemic.... Then a whirring sound made me jump, and a sleek, tiny bullet train swept by at eye-level, carrying a plate of sushi to the customers seated to my right.
These automated systems are a feature of what are usually called conveyor-belt restaurants. They arose as both a way for restaurateurs to save on labor costs and for busy city workers to order quickly without too much human interaction. But the idea of replacing waiters with tiny transportation systems has a long history, and has spread around the world.
This week, we visit China, Japan, and the USA to explore each nation’s dominant genre of “food that moves,” as well as why the concept is so appealing to restaurant owners. Here’s a hint: You might be seeing a lot more of these restaurants, especially as COVID concerns and hiring shortages linger.
China’s Lazy Rivers of Wine and Tea
In the Forbidden City’s Pavilion of Floating Cups, visitors will spot a large stone tablet. This artifact once had water running through the winding, snake-like loop carved into its surface. Similar setups exist in mansions and pavilions across China, all inspired by a series of poems from the 4th century. Literati set cups of wine to float through tiny artificial rivers, often as a drinking game. Players had to compose complete poems before a cup of wine made a complete circuit.
Japan’s Spinning Sushi
Japan is the undisputed leader of conveyor-belt restaurants. Restaurateur Yoshiaki Shiraishi is credited for developing the classic kaiten-zushi conveyor-belt system, inspired by a lack of staff for his small business. Shiraishi spent five years developing his sushi carousel before opening Mawaru Genroku Sushi in 1958, which eventually grew to nearly 250 outlets. There are less than a dozen left, but the original is still open, in Osaka Prefecture. Customers sit at a counter or table next to the moving belt, and grab plates of sushi rolls off the line. The plate’s color indicates its contents’ price, and waiters come around to tally the final bill.
America’s Train Restaurants
Since the 1950s and 1960s, American waitstaff have been hitching plates of burgers and fries up to model train sets built into their dining rooms. At Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant in Kansas City, railroads weren’t originally in the name or the mind of Fritz Knopf, who opened his diner in 1954. Labor shortages in the early 1970s spurred him to try something new. A tinkerer and inventor, Knopf assembled a food-delivery system in the family basement before installing his “Skat Kat” conveyor belt in the 1970s. People kept calling his invention a train. So he gave in, changed the name, and added train-themed decor. Many other restaurateurs across the U.S. were similarly inventive. Along with Fritz’s, here are two other restaurants where food comes via a miniature rail system.
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