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Sunday 30 August 1829 (travel notes)
7 10/60
12 3/4
no motion yesterday first time missed half hour on the pot this morning and it answered pretty well then half hour with Miss H[obart] she gets more used to me and we are capital friends lady S[tuart] annoyed apparently at my being with Miss H[obart] last night
breakfast at 9 3/4 off from Namur at 10 50/60 11 8/60 – Drizly morning – did not stir out – very good Inn (Hotel de Hollande) view view from the bridge en sortant towards Dinant and towards Liège beautiful the chateau on the hill and its walls extending far along the top of the hill environs of Namur – the river scenery very fine – straw thatched or blue slated picturesque cottages beautifully scattered along the little margin river –
marchelesdames (left) at 12 5/60 after having just passed a picturesque little chateau – valley every where narrow beautifully closed in by fine rocK, beautifully wooded – the King of the netherlands has a share in this chateau de Marchelesdames and in the neighbouring usines for iron worKs – slate rocK blue – river quite muddy – current strongish – the valleys or glens every now and then striKing up from the river beautiful –
at maedeze maizeret (a few white washed houses) at 12 1/4 – bold white rocK en face and fine reach of river – at 12 20/60 the ruins of the castle of Saint Sceaux Sanson [Samson] vide Richard page 493. the souterrains still remain – a castle in the time of the Romans – must see all this country another time when more at liberty – unfortunately a thicK drizzly rain from 11 1/2 all the way –
at Selayn at 12 40/60 – stopt to refresh the horses 1/4 hour and off again at 12 55/ (sat in our carriage Lady S-[Stuart] with me – came just as I ever tooK then out of Namur – off a minute or 2 after them this morning for the 1st time lady S-[Stuart] thinKing we should get on faster if her carriage went first) Selayn (liKe all the towns and villages hereabouts built of the darK blacKish stone of the country but generally white or yellow-washed – lucKless day – still drizzling rain – from the village Salayn the valley widens a little the hills right lower and the river closer under the hills left than right which was not the case before – still fine but not so closely and finely rocK-closed as before – birch and oaK wood – more copse and brush wood the large timber –
the valley then enlarges into a basin at the head of which right the nice looKing little town of Andenne creeping round the foot of the segment of the basin at a little distance from the river – all along wider than the Seine at the Jardin des plantes – fertile valley here – the stone of the country very liKe the darK welsh stone at Dolgelly etc. everywhere hops potatoes – oats in swathe – but not much corn – not enough to support the valley – –
leave Andenne (large good church) a little right at 12 1/2 – thro’ our road for the 1st time out of sight of the river which is to the left – valley wider all here cottages – and villages peeping from among wood rich land – thorn hedges – but large enclosures – from Waterloo to Namur few enclosures and the country therefore almost open field land save close to the villages – here in this valley from Namur [orchids/orchards] moderate size – enclosures – rich fertile valley –
lady S-[Stuart] saw yesterday between Genappe and Sombref and waggon with 8 horses each horse having a large nosegay stucK near the tail on the crupper – hills on each side everywhere beautifully wooded farms and cottages creeping along your feet – most contracted valley with bold rocK from N-[Namur] to Selayn – at 1 50/60 valley still wide and opening into amphitheatre in front but 2 chateaus left close on the other side of river – passed just passed thro’ picturesque village – ruin of castle on the top of the rocK right – fine reach of of river before us – vines on the hill side left – and fine extensive view forwards on the opening circle of hill – (miss H-Hobart on the box with Henry before us) – picturesque village along the river left and left banK – diligence just before us – Capital road all the way –
at 2 10/60 beautiful – vine-clad hills left – and village an cottages – steep high finely steep rocKy wooded hill close right – Huy and its great fortress very fine – orchids and hop gardens – fine approach to Huy – fine bridge 7 arches over the river fortress right-town too left – alighted at the hotel de la Poste at 2 20/60 – dawdling over 1 thing or other wanted to see the fortress lady S[tuart] quizzed this ladies can understand nothing of these things thus she says of everything she does not understand herself and she understands but little
got a man as guide – could not see the forteresse – for the last year past no English family allowed – in fact nobody but Belgians can get permission – one man lost 200 francs a year by this so many English used to go, and would stay sKetching the interior – the thing not liKed the governor asKed prince Frederic if he might refuse shewing it – yes! certainly – the fortress finished 6 years ago – just went into the cathedral only 1/2 standing – the other 1/2 burnt down 20 or 25 years ago – the plafond white and a flowery pattern painted on it – 1st time I ever saw this – handsome cathedral – mass at the time we went in and good music – then saying I only wanted to see the view from the fortress the man tooK up up to a little chapel notre dame de Sarte § on a height above that of the fortress – long, dirty, fatiguing walK – miss H-[Hobart] tired –
[margin: § et qu’on dit miraculeuse on y vieut en pelérinage de fort loin – Le voyageur dans le royaume des pays bas. page 76. ]
tiffing as we returned she would have me do as if alone and see everything why do only what she could do why not think of myself said and have pleasure in the tour said I had never had a pleasanter tour etc. etc. had all I wanted then turned and asked if she did not know why I came she said it was a puzzling question it was passing strange did not say much but that little flattering
out with miss H-[Hobart] from 3 25/60 to 4 35/60 – good view on the from the height we went to, but should have gone higher – drizzling rain and uncomfortable – in returning by the grand place (well enough for a small town) saw some tolerable little shops – lady S-[Stuart] had been with her maid to the cathedral –
came in at 4 35/60 immediately had my hair done – then slept in my chair till 5 40/60 then turning out a fine evening – lady S[taurt] want asked me last night to go in her carriage with them and have all their boxes put in mine de[c]lined this of course –
Dinner at 5 50/60 – Lady S-[Stuart] afterwards read aloud 1 of Ogden’s sermons – had just done it (at 9) when miss H-[Hobart] all but fainted and was afterwards very slightly hysterical she had eaten a cold pear before dinner I held her head she seemed satisfied but lady S[tuart] sso fussy I could not do much she has her cousin miss H-[Hobart] went to bed immediately and I gave her a tumbler glass of hot gin and water – but could not go near her much Lady S[tuart] would fidget me to death if she did to me as to Miss H[obart] –
tea – Lady S-[Stuart] read aloud to me another of Odgen’s sermons – I know not which she thinks she reads well yes well enough considering her great age and little learning she would bore me sadly if I had much more of her she would soon begin to order me if I would let her – just wished miss H-[Hobart] good night and came to my room at 11 1/2 – slept 20 minutes in my chair – drizly rainy day –
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Saturday 29 August 1829 (travel notes)
8 40/60
1 25/60
Dressed and at breakfast in 1/2 hour settled all – postage all paid by Monsieur de Proft to Genappe – off at 10 40/60 – rain in the night but very fine they said at 7 this morning – fair since my getting but thinK we shall have showers – down steep hill and drag in 10 minutes high steep grass banKs each side
in 5 minutes drag off at Village and post marKed Waterloo 2 1/2 nuven a pretty little laKe – not long soon afterwards enter the fine forest of Soigne – fine avenue of beeches each side road – the forest seems to be of oaK and beech – nous avons 2 liêues de foret – i.e. one road thro’ the forest 2 lieues long – at waterloo at 12 1/2 – see church at waterloo
off again at 1 25/60 – stop at the monument of Gordon at 2 – off to Hougoumont at 2 10/60 – 30 bonyés 400 verges = one bonyés 1 verge = 6 pieds and the ruined farm for 33 milles florins bought by the Comte de Robiano chambellan du roi de Netherlands – Pierre Dehasse the guide – Belle alliance – ferme Badar – Le lion by Mr. CocKerel [Cockerill] of liège a conte – la terre 129 mille florins – at La Belle alliance at 3 25/60 – and off at 3 40/60 – at Genappe at 4 20/60 – good road pretty undulating road and country from La Belle alliance had them both in the carriage with me to Genappe Genappe a tolerably goodish large large goodish white washed town –
off at 4 37/60 – all along today cutting corn – much standing – little or none housed or stacKed little round stacKs (thatched) of clover hay near the little farm houses – oats lying in swathe – and ditto standing only [bleed] [ripe] the duKe of w-’s[Wellington’s] tree bought for 220/.[francs] and gone to England 7 years ago – taKing a survey now of waterloo – it was in fact the battle of Saint Jean a little village – tolerably neat burn coals at La belliance from 5 lienes off – wood too dear – the house white washed 1 room on each side the door –
at Sombref at 6 1/4 – a little picturesque village town – off again at 6 35/60 after paying the last stage and the next to Namur – great hill just out of Sombref – which lady S-[Stuart] had walKed up! and got into my carriage at the top at 6 3/4 – at Namur at 9 25/60 – only 2 double bedded rooms for us all, servants and all – then to the hotel de Hollande – hilly road from Sombref to Namur – Dinner at 11 came to my room at 12 10/60 – with Miss H-[Hobart] from 12 1/2 to 12 3/4 – she has been more at her ease with me of late particularly yesterday and today tis now clear she likes me
lady S-[Stuart] and miss H-[Hobart] with me from la Belle alliance to Genappe and from then to Sombref had miss H-Hobart alone, and then from there to Namur lady S-[Stuart] alone – talking of travelling said I should take my man and maid and go without a friend she said oh no said I I only know one person with whom I should like to travel said she and cannot you get her no said I then take her recommendation agreed said I I will take it all this passed so significantly she coloured feeling sure I meant herself in fact I did give it that turn tho I had at first thought of π [Mariana] in fact we now begin to have a regular flirtation and she will like me before we had done
lady S[tuart] afterwards talked of my spoiling she said if I made her of so much consequence and spoilt her so she would be quite unhappy with her lady S[tuart] after leaving me I said I was always reasonable and should always be glad to do anything lady S[tuart] thought best about Miss H[obart] that perhaps I did feel inclined to spoil her a little as she was a child to me and almost like my own child
Wyatt came in as I was ssitting with Miss H[obart] tonight I only hope it will not be made seem odd to lady S[tuart] – Sunless day – a little rain just before we got to Namur –
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Friday 28 August 1829 (travel notes)
8
12 50/60
Vc
Rainy morning – to go or not to go – Breakfast at 10 – Dawdling over 1 thing or other before and after breakfast till 11 20/60 – talking to Miss H[obart] about dress and giving Cameron her travelling gown etc. etc. till it lead to my saying I must have someone to live with me yes she thought so I said I was unfortunately odd in those things yes ssaid she I did not think you at all odd at first but the more I know you the more odd I think you when I said I did id not understand dress yes but said she you are always sso nicely dressed – then talKing to lady S-[Stuart] or dawdling bacKwards and forwards
settled with miss H-[Hobart] about the bills at B-[Brussels] in an absence paid before we went to Ghent etc. – tooK a fiacre at 12 25/60 and out at 12 25/60 – went to the banK – then to gardiner’s English library then called and sat 20 minutes with Mrs Sympson rue Ducal no.1046 – saw only herself and her daughter Emma –
Mrs S[ympson] fat and vulgarish would have called on me but had not the honour of knowing Lady S[tuart] but would have called and asked for me only she thought I should be back till today she thanked me much for my goodness in calling said how much she was obliged to me and I came away thinking well who in York would think of my thinking Mrs S[ympson] vulgar alas I feel low at the thought how little I shall relish any but first rate society and how little certain I am of getting it well however I am genee now I am with h better society than I have ever been be fore and tho I do spend my money tis worth it –
then wrote out in my journal Thursday 13 and Friday 14th instant – from 4 to 6 out with lady S-[Stuart] and miss H-Hobart went to Lace shop and hat ditto – blacK chantilly veils (not large (1 1/4 by 3/4 yard?) at 110 – 120 – 130 – 150 – franc in a fiacre they paid for it
then at 6 set out with miss H-[Hobart] to the booKseller’s (gardiner’s) and looKing about us and did not got home till near very near 7 – wanted to give her a ceinture – but we could not agree about the choice – dinner at 7 10/60 – afterwards spoke to monsieur de Proft about posting etc. counted over my money and then sat talKing to lady S-[Stuart] and miss H-[Hobart] while I was out this morning mr. Taylor Lord Francis osborne lasy Peachhill and the miss walpoles had called
Miss H[obart] gets more at her ease with me and certainly likes me she said at Antwerp one thing might make her more unconfiding she never began to like a thing or a person but she was ssure to lose it I said she would always find me just the same etc. etc. I am all that is right with lady S[tuart] and that is well
Came to my room at 12 – very rainy morning – fair from about 3 for the rest of the day
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Thursday 27 August 1829 (travel notes)
7 35/60
2
Breakfast at 9 – out at 10 5/60 church Saint James great altar Saint James en marble blanc 4 twisted corinthan columns with wreaths round – same as at Saint Peter’s Rome but the latter brown – the altar one of the finest monuments in this country – organ placed as at YorK –
In a side chapel beautiful crucifixion by Scheemf Scheemaec in white 1 piece marble – 13 pictures were at Paris – Chapel of Rubens – VandyKe ditto at London buried in Saint Georges Square – picture of the family of R-Rubens grand father father R-[Rubens] himself in armor – 3 wives – mademoiselle Lunden his 3rd wife pour ne pas outrager un tel homme – Cène by VandiepenbyKe from L- da Vinci 6th window north aisle – all windows painted before revolution now only 17 – the life of Saint James all along the nave before – handsome white washed cathedral liKe church – pillars a little clustered transept – Vanhemsen last judgment – middle a la in size (à la colle) – the family of Rocox [Rockox] in l’huile – a.d. 1400 and odd – –
out of the church at 10 1/2 – (there 20 minutes) – then to the collection 35/60 hour there – not much worth much 3 Rubens our saviour giving the Keys to Saint Peter liKe than any R-[Rubens] I have seen on account of the bad figure of the salvation – the crucifixion pretty good – the SKetch of the man on horsebacK attacKed by a lion excellent 5 cows and a woman (paysage and animaux) Albert [Aelbert] Cuyp good – 1 or 2 good by wouvermanns – Vendange by Bassans good – voilà tout –
at the cathedral at 11 1/4 elevation de la croix Rubens very fine – (folding doors of picture) – north transept – 5 pictures from here were at the Louvre – Descent from the cross magnificent south transept – on 1 side the visit of Elizabeth on the other folding door presentation in the temple – Jesus Xst [Christ] qui porte sa croix per VandyKe in small south side Chapel – over the great altar ascenscion painted seize pours de temps – the saviour too much en femme – Saint Francis by Murillo in recess South side great altar – 32 altars before revolution only the altar de la vierge escaped – bacK of great altar marriage de la vìerge Clair obscur excellent by the direction of the academy – the picture over this by mattyses la mort de la vìerge – La cène by the master of Rubens (good) over the 7th evèque en marbre well sculptured – 1/2 reclining –
some good oaK carving in round this Chapel and elsewhere by de Coq – double ailses [aisles] – clear of gaudy chapels very little painted glass – singular lantern tower – painted at top liKe the door of castle Howard – 3 tiers fo transom window all round it – singular for a church – fine plain cathedral – arches spring from bottom – white washed – not much or no marble save about the great altar – (on 1 side the door the putting up the cross spectators who regardent la cène – on the other soldiers qui amenent les 2 larrons) – pulpit fine oaK-carved – 2 little squirrels – all the rest birds – but supported by 3 figures large as life – cocK turKy ditto peacocK etc. – 35 minutes top of the steeple –
off again at 12 50/60 – drove about the streets till 1 1/2 rue de Rubens and his house – made into 2 and the façade changed – King’s palace – at the musée at 1 1/2 – 1/2 hour there till 2 – in an old eglise – best worth seeing collection we have seen – excellent for Rubens and VandycK – Dinner table d’hote 32 people from 2 1/4 to 3 1/2 –
off to the churches at 3 35/60 – to the Dominicans – the Calvaire finest organ here – handsome church – all along the side aisles fine oaK carving – handsome pulpit in ditto – and ditto in the choir – nice boulevards and fortified town – [at Vilvorde 8 20/60 – at Brussels at 10 – vide of next page but one –]
then to Saint Augustin – holy family over the altar by Rubens and great many figures Saint Augustin etc. – large picture – over a little altar plus beau ouvrage de VandycK, a vision of Saint Augustin – fancy – Augustin and 2 female and 1 young male figure and little angels above and the saviour 1/2 length in the clouds – good painting – handsome oaK carved pulpit le chef d’œuvre de Verbruggen – baptême de Saint Augustin by Van Bree Director actual de l’academia – large – good – the pope? baptising him and a good female all in blue leaning over him behind – le vie de Saint A-[Augustin] in pictures above the arches on each side the nave – church small handsome enough – Saint Augustin supports the pulpit he holds a pen and booK – wrote against Arian –
left the church at 4 20/60 – then to the hotel and off from the hotel d’Angleterrie rue de l’empereur at anvers at 4 40/60 pass the jardin de l’hopital and cross 3 bridges over vet moats – beautifully neat green grass slopes of the fortification down to the water and then a sort of garden suburb – and at 4 55/60 good little tower and church – 1 long street – then garden and small rich enclosures and perpetual villages – at 5 10/60 a shower for a few minutes – fine road to malines – avenue pollard oaKs and tallers trees all the way –
at malines at 6 50/60 – saw the cathedral – handsome – apostles against pillars of the nave – pulpit liKe rocK but oaK – Saint Paul thrown from his house in a cave in front rustic steps – crucifixion by VandycK – too darK – cathedral in a good place – large handsome old town – off at 7 20/60 – at Brussels at 10 – lady S[tuart] cross evidently at our being so late I should soon hate this work but gave her the thing I brought from Ghent and brought her round as one would a spoilt child –
tea – came to my room at 12 – fine day tilll after 5 – then rain more or less till we got to Brussels – calculating till one –
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Wednesday 26 August 1829 (travel notes)
7 1/4
1
Breakfast at 8 1/2 – out at 9 3/4 – house of Louis 18th Saint Michel – (at Saint Bavos last night 4 Candelabra of Charles 1st) – VandyK Smith banker offered 100 mille francs for it – not at Paris – and a picture by a pupil of David [‘Discovery of the Cross’ by Joseph Paelinck] – hid 25 years – annunciation by Lens [André Corneille Lens] at 72 –
old house in the parish de Saint Nicolas of the 16th century – then Saint Nicolas – good white washed church (liKe all the rest) church a picture by Cryer [Casper de Crayer] pupil of Rubens – Saint Nicolas entering the city as bishop –
[margin: Ghent 5 limes circumf[eren]ce 13 great steets – ]
at Descamps at 10 1/2 – Rubens’s sKetch of his crucifixion chef d’œuvre at anvers – Rembrandt by himself en costume armenien with a poodle dog – La conception de la vierge by Correggio – away, at 11 1/2 – then palais de l'universite – grande salle – corinthan – amphethéatre a corinthan peristyle with gallery behind all round the circle – contains 1600 persons – 500 scholars in the college already – can contain plus de 2000 – 10 minutes there – began 7 years ago – finished 2 1/2 years – very handsome –
out of the academy at 12 1/2 – out of the Beguinage at 1 – 400 henges there and 7 convents – then shopping – and home at 2 1/2 – off from the poste at Ghent at 3 1/4 – feat road – very good enclosures – Alder hedges – patches of wood (pollard and brush wood oak) forming an anvenue or rows of young trees forming an avenue all the way to LocKeren [Lokeren] – winding road pretty – road can be wheat one can see nothing – pass thro’ nice villages –
[?] [?] at LocKeren [Lokeren] largeish good town (more liKe English than French) at 5 40/60 off again at 5 50/60 – capital road – at 6 1/2 long, neat, pretty village – at 7 5/60 St Nicolas – immense triangular place – large good, very neat town – look a little brandy indigest[io]n pain – she keeps me somehow at a great distance tho she lets me treat her this journey
off from Saint Nicolas at 7 1/4 – fine avenue chiefly beeches sometimes almost meeting over on heads all the way to the ditches near the Pont near to Antewerp – landed at 9 1/4 – at the hotel d’Angleterre at 9 1/4 – they had only one room – but got more – miss H-[Hobart] does not liKe our being so thrown together – supper at 10 1/4 – sat talKing miss H-[Hobart] went to her room at 12 1/4 – after all my musing as I came along not to think of or care for her it seems she likes me love making more than ever – fine day – not one drop of rain –
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Tuesday 25 August 1829 (travel notes)
7 3/4
11 1/4
breakfast at 9 1/2 – Lord L-[Lindsay] came – off from Brussels at 10 50/60 – good land nice ditto good farming – a few hedges – nice neat villages – enough to looK liKe England – not much if any corn cut – oats, hops,bucK wheat, hemp, Rape, rye – nice drive to asseh [Asse] – got there at at 12 1/2 – off again at 12 40/60 – housing oats – avenue of elms – 1 of poplars east slope – fine rich country – neat villages and cottages – everywhere sufficiently wooded –
1/4 hour seeing the church at Alost [Aalst] – 1/2 hour delayed there – foolish to have changed our French money – at Alost [Aalst] obliged to pay in French money – and business about calculating what it would be in florins – off at 2 3/4 – Alost good neat English windowed town – very handsome church Saint Roch by Rubens (eris in peste patronus) Do not liKe the woman’s naKed arm- and Saint Catherine by VandycK – a man pulling at her head that is too far from the necK –
pretty drive to Alost [Aalst] – fine rich country hop grounds around the picturesque neat villages and tobacco – and views on extensive rich wooded fertile country – fine avenue of pruned beeches pruned up 1/2 their height – capital pasture – grap green and good and sweet as in England – beautifully neat picturesque villages –
at Quadrecht [Kwatrecht] at 4 18/60 – a drop or 2 of rain just before getting here, but almost succeeded by sunshine – off from Quadrecht [Kwatrecht] at off again at 4 32/60 fine drive to Ghent – avenue chiefly beeches all the way – at Ghent at 5 1/2 – out from 5 55/60 to 7 1/2 seeing the cathedral and walKing about – 1 5/60 hour in the cathedral – 9 pictures that were in Paris – fine day –
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Monday 24 August 1829 (travel notes)
8
2 20/60
L
miss H-[Hobart] and I out in 1/2 hour to see the revel – the King walKed at the head of his men and ditto the 2 young princes (10 and 12) as colonels of regiments they had just had given them – they had just passed before we got upon the terrass terrasse –
then drove partly round the city – along the boulevard – then turned off at the gate of Halle into a bad cart road for some time till we got bacK into the town – a swamp all round the city – 15 swans in 1 group on the water – the old bricK wall left standing as a support to the boulevard – got home at 10 – breakfast at 10 1/2 – sat talKing to miss H-[Hobart] somehow turned on natural history the sexes of the higher animals being most distinct snails hermaphrodite Miltons why were we not like angels have no sex at all etc. she coloured but went on well
Lady S-[Stuart] came about 11 1/2 – had sent my card to mrs. J-[Johnson] to say I would call at 10 – did not get there till 12 – sat with her and mr. J-[Johnson] an hour – mrs. ClarK came in – a big vulgar looKing woman – young Charles D-[Duffin] – fine boy enough – red haired – sent off my letter to the post to my aunt rue Godot de Mauroy no.39 à Paris – then wrote 3 pp.[pages] and the ends to mr. and mrs. D-[Duffin] to go by the Johnstons and then wrote 3 pp.[pages] to miss mcL-[MacLean]
told the D-s[Duffins] I had left my aunt at home she was not quite effective for travelling but would not let me stay at home on her account – did not mention with whom I was travelling – mrs. J-[Johnson] asKed me this morning but not being obliged (turned naturally enough to something else) did not answer the question – she said she had seen my name in the booK – I thinK not only lady S-s [Stuarts] entered on our arrival – both to the D-[Duffin] and miss mcL-[MacLean] gave the same plan of our route as given to my aunt page 43 – not much detail of the journey to either of them – told the D-s [Duffins] wondered how the N-s [Norcliffes] were so delighted with the place – Knew not what would me to live here. should be rheumatic, melancholic, atrabilious everything that was vapourish – swamps all round the city – but the botanical garden very pretty –
Kind letter to miss McL-[MacLean] conclude with – ‘nothing can be more harmonious than our party – I should care not save for Vere’s saKe, if we never moved from here – we have a comfortable apartment – we have all we want – we have a piano, and I, at least, am more than satisfied – I counted upon nothing – I care for nothing, but that which does not disappoint me – Perhaps I shall not be bacK till about the time you seem to hope to be in Paris – It will indeed be a comfort to me to have you – But no more – I have been interrupted I Know not how often, and can only add, I am always, Sibbella, very faithfully and affectionately yours AL-’
Miss H[obart] [?] who had before been sitting by me came in as I had written this gave it her to read she turned her back and went away directly and said nothing but I think she thought of it I had said after breakfast how well I had behaved of late and only hoped it not passed her unnoticed it seemed it had not she had noticed it and I fancied was pleased to hear the change accounted for I think she likes me but wants to hide it either she cares much for me or is perfectly unmoved and only makes a convenience of me there can be no medium but somehow I think she likes me I often say I cannot make her out and she always ssays she is glad she should be sorry if I could said this morning I had once been deeply disappointed and that made a great difference she told me of her school friendships etc. she is gradually less reserved with me she said tonight I thought for her spoilt her –
agreed for lady S-[Stuart] to go to Antwerp tomorrow she to return here on Wednesday we go to Ghent then and return here on thursday in time for waterloo, and thence to Namur – ordered horses at 10 tomorrow –
at 3 1/2 Lord Lindsay came – all went to his room to see the climbing up the poles in the place royale for the hams – rained or should have gone out in the carriage – a gleam – miss H-[Hobart] and I walKed to opposite the palace – saw the King at the window – and some ladies in court dresses – lappeted heads – dinner at 6 1/4 – Lord L-[Lindsay] came for a little while afterwards – tea –
at 9 went to Dr. Griffiths daughters (Mrs. ShubrucKs’?) to see the fire worKs – the Orford and a little dress party there – we in bonnets – tea and coffee – and ice and a capital supper of sweets – queerish party – home at 11 1/2 – all changed about going tomorrow – Lady S-[Stuart] persuaded the weather was too bad for her to go – another settling – miss H-[Hobart] and I go to Ghent tomorrow – to return by Antwerp – lady S-[Stuart] to meet us there on wednesday if she liKes – Italian songs –
came to my room at 12 1/4 – wrote the whole of today- wrote a note to mrs. Johnston on the envelope enclosing my letter to mr. and mrs. Duffin but directed to william D-[Duffin] esquire micKlegate YorK By favour of Mrs C. Johnston’ – Sealed up my letter to miss mcL-[MacLean] of Coll 1 Southampton street Cambden town’ enclosing miss H-’s[Hobart’s] 1/2 sheet note she gave me this morning – said it was dangerous she replied she trusted my honour I have not seen a word perhaps she would not have disliked my seeing it could I have done so without her being supposed to know it –
Rainy morning from about 9 – for near an hour – afterwards showers – damp threatening every now and then rainy day – so rainy in the evening could not have the feu d’artifice – the rest of this batch are all in pencil 2 hours pacKing portmanteau – looKing over my money, calculating etc. till 4 –
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Sunday 8 May 1825
6 50/60
11 20/60
L
gave Hospur oat cake did not come in again till 7 40/60 –
Read over my letter (began last Sunday) to miss mcL-[MacLean] page 3 is the following – ‘Now that you understand me better, do you not agree, few characters are more mistaKen then my own, even by those who seem on terms of intimacy with me – How happens this? I rarely meet with those who interest me, who have the charm that brings me bacK to that disguised, and hidden nature, that suits not with the world – ‘I could be much that I have not been’ (commaed off because the same sentence used before at the bottom of page 1) – Had it been my fate to meet, in early life, with one whose disposition has exactly corresponded with my own, – whose heart could beat with a regard as warm, as constant, as devoted, as my own, I should have been much better and much happier – But the heart Knoweth its own bitterness’; and bitter indeed are the 1st moments of that conviction which tells us, we have missed the good we sought, and must be hopeless to find it ever – all afterwards is turned to doubt – confidence is gone – we mistrust even ourselves, and fear to judge a 2nd time – will you read this with surprise; or is it your own opinion with which time has made you so familiar, that it seems not strange from anyone? we will talK of all this when we meet’ –
vide the bottom of page 3 ‘Raideur strikes me as a word of rather difficult explanation: it is not exactly stiffness, not exactly primness, not exactly shyness, but an indescribable compound of all three: it is certainly not ‘some sort of gaucherie’ – not near so bad as the very mildest species of it – In fact, if I could have translated the word into English any corresponding term in English, I should have done so, holding in abomination the too common practice of torturing our own fine language with alien words not half so good as ours – a regular quotation now and then, very occasionally, is a different thing, and may be excused; but the jargon of English and French so commonly written, and spoKen nowadays, makes me sigh ever for the culpes and satinisms of the days of queen Elizabeth – (culpe from the word culpa, a fault, an odd-sounding, but favourate Latinism of queen Elizabeth, who begged that her people would not impute to her the culpes of her parliament vide lord Somers’ tract) – well1 but I do not find the word raideur in my old French dictionary; and my new one is not yet arrived – How can the English have a word to express that of which they are not conscious, any more than the French to express that comfort of which they Knew nothing till they borrowed the word, and, with it, some faint idea of its meaning, from us?’ —
on the last end, ‘I really begin to feel more and more the cares of the world, to long for some such person always at my elbow, as my Fancy could describe – I am not much calculated to live alone, nor even in Society without some tie whose nearness is near as heart and interest can make it – mrs. B-[Barlow] nursed me so attentively, and so Kindly, and even habit had made her so necessary to me, I felt her with all the regret you imagine’ –
mention madame Galvani’s 3 pictures – ‘to be bought cheap, – for 1200 francs’ – at the end of the crossing of page 1 a poster. ‘By the way, if I could have lost my heart to anything French, it would have been to a mademoiselle de Sans – but, perhaps, I am, in every sense of the word, as patriotic, – as fond of my country and my country women, even as yourself’ –
went down to breakfast at 9 3/4 – came upstairs again at 10 40/60 – At 12 10/60 Had written the last 7 lines – had written the last end, and crossed the 1st page, and sent of (by william Green) my letter to miss mcL-[MacLean] of Coll ‘5 South Saint David Street Edinburgh’ – the 1st page dated last Sunday the 2nd and [?] part of the 3rd dated Tuesday the 3rd and the 1st end dated last wednesday – the remainder dated this morning –
went downstairs at 12 10/60 – read aloud the whole of the morning service – came upstairs again at 1 1/2 – From 1 3/4 to 5 1/4 wrote 1 1/3 page very small and close to mrs. B-[Barlow] at 5 25/60 went downstairs, read aloud the evening service, and sermon 119. volume 4, my uncles collection all which tooK me till 6 10/60 – then came up to dress – dinner at 6 35/60 –
Did nothing in the evening – On inquiry after mrs. Rawson at church this morning, the message was she was rather worse today then yesterday – Rain between 12 and 1, and a very heavy shower about 5 – afterwards fair, and tolerably fine evening – Barometer 1/4 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 55º at 9 50/60 at which hour came up to bed – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Saturday 7 May 1825
x 7 20/60
11 1/4
L
incurred a cross just before getting up thinking of Miss de Sans and my rubbing her stomach when she was ill –
gave Hotspur oat cake – went out at 8 40/60 to the worKmen – got bacK to breakfast at 10 1/2 – found a letter (3 pp.[pages] and the ends) from Mrs. Barlow (Paris) on my desK – She got cold after a 2nd dose of calomel, and has been confined to her bed with one inflammation in her bowels – now better – will not have Mr Hancock nor will she marry at all says that even I was free from π [Mariana] I should be at liberty to choose whom I liked § – The de Boyves have 23 people in their house, and it is now visited by the police an hotel garni – and they are obliged to send in the names of all who go to and who leave them – Soult has taKen his 1st communion – (the sacrament the 1st time) is turned religious – religion said to be all the fashion now in France Charles X to be crowned at Rheims on the 29th of this month – all the fêtes and rejoicings to be at Paris – miss Gauntlet has introduced a friend of hers a Monsieur de Boufoy to mrs. Barlow, a gentlemanly, pleasant, well-principled young man –
at 12 1/2 went again to the worKmen – sauntered slowly home, and came upstairs at 2 3/4 – read over mrs. B-’s[Barlow’s] letter a 2nd time – went bacK to the worKmen at 4 1/4 – and got home at 5 3/4 – rain came on about 5 1/2 which sent me home – beautiful morning very fine all the day – till the thunder rain came at 5 1/2 which lasted about 1/4 hour – afterwards fair and fine –
dressed – dinner at 6 35/60 – afterwards wrote the above of today – the stones shot in Lower brea lane and pushed down the wood on 3 planKs by JacKman and his son william – Barometer 1 1/2 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 57º at 9 1/2 p.m. at which hour came up to bed – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Friday 6 May 1825
7
11 10/60
gave Hotspur oat cake – went out to the worKmen at 8 1/2 – got bacK to breakfast at 10 – read aloud a little of yesterday’s Leeds Intelligencer – the message from Stony Royde with mrs. waterhouse’s compliments was that mrs. R-Rawson was the same as on wednesday – came upstairs at 11 1/4 – tooK up Les cinq Codes, and read aloud to myself the Charte constitutionelle which tooK mr about 1/2 hour –
went again to the worKmen at 11 3/4 – tooK up 3 young oaKs and cut down 6 trees (2 firs 4 larches, all large) to clear the way for the new path and steps up the wood – brought the oaKs into the upper brooK ing calf croft to be planted at the bottom of it, on the little pit-hill – sauntered up and down reading volume 1 Rousseau confession
came in about 2 1/2 – read a little more – dozed a little, and went out again at 3 1/4 – stood by the gardener while he planted 2 of the oaKs – the other not liKely enough to grow – then went ot JacKmen and the men – JacKman and his son william mended Lower brea lane in the morning – throw stones down the wood and helped to get the great trees out of the way in the afternoon –
got home at 6 50/60 – Dinner at 7 – Did nothing in the evening – came upstairs at 9 35/60 at which hour Barometer 1 1/2 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 58º - Rain again during last night – very soft morning about 10 it began to clear, and to turn out a fine day – a heavy thunder shower between 4 and 5 – several peals of distant thunder just before and at intervals afterwards – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Thursday 5 May 1825
6 10/60
11 10/60
L
gave Hotspur oat cake – at 7 3/4 went out to the worKmen at the new foot path – did not got bacK to breakfast till 11 1/2 – Letter from M-[Mariana] (Lawton) dated Tuesday – they got home monday night where M-[Mariana] found my 2 last letters – the last she ought, she says, to have received at Cheltenham, but it was missent to some other place – she writes me 3 pp.[pages] and the ends, and half the 1st page crossed – kind enough says I have done well about the chrisophraes ornaments sseems to be very bad in her old complaint but Cheltenham has done M-[Mariana] good in point of biliousness –
went to the worKmen again at 1 and staid with them till 2 25/60 – then sauntered home – read aloud a little to myself volume 1 Rousseau confessions – dozed a little – went out again at 3 3/4 – staid with the worKmen some time – then went to speaK to mrs. Robinson about the carts, and staid there a long while during a heavy thunder shower – several peals of thunder not very loud, and a flash of lightening – had hardly left the house when it began to rain heavily again, but staid to speaK to the worKmen, returned by Charles Howarth’s and along the high road – went into the paddocK to see the torrent of road water that ran down it, and after being out in the rain about 1/2 hour came in at 6 20/60 –
dressed – Dinner at 6 3/4 – Came up to bed at 9 1/2 at which hour Barometer 1 1/4 degree below changeable and Fahrenheit 55 1/2º - It rained almost all last night heavily – and the flags did not begin to dry this morning till between 9 and 10 – a light shower about four – then the heavy thunder rain began about 5, and it rained a couple of hours or more – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Wednesday 4 May 1825
7
11 5/60
x L
gave Hotspur oat cake Very rainy morning – did not go out – From 8 1/2 to 10 reading aloud to myself volume 1 Rousseau confessions – sent my letter written yesterday to ‘miss Isabella Dalton croft Rectory, Darlington, Durham’ – went down to breakfast at 10 – went upstairs at 11 1/4 – Read the Joconde of de Lafontaine, and the treatise upon at the end of the volume this and other parts of the volume tooK me till near 1 excited me so that I h incurred a cross sitting on my chair just before I went out
at 1 went to the worKmen – found them all at the new foot path – they had been worKing in spite of the rain – returned in the rain (it was fair when I went) and got home at 2 – from about 2 1/4 to 5 wrote (very small and close) page 3, and the 1st end of my letter to miss mcL-[MacLean]
at 5 1/4 went again to the worKmen and did not get bacK to dinner till 6 35/60 – no time to dress – dinner at 6 3/4 – wrote the above of today in the evening downstairs – Very rainy day till noon – afterwards repeated showers – then tolerably fine from about 4 in the afternoon, and all the evening – Barometer 1/2 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 52º at 9 35/60 at which hour it is raining heavily, and at which hour came up to bed E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside]
Hearing mrs. Rawson of Stony Royde, sent inquire after her this morning – mrs. Empson’s compliments were returned – she had arrived last night, and, since her arrival, her mother had been a little better – Dr. Paley and Kenny had sat up with her last night and all the family were at Stony Royde –
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Tuesday 3 May 1825
6 1/2
11 1/2
LL
gave Hotspur oat cake – went to the worKmen at 8 – Came bacK to breakfast at 9 1/2 – Letter from Isabella Dalton (Croft Rectory) 3 pp.pages and the ends, and the 3rd page crossed – to congratulate me on my return home very attentive Kind letter –
Came upstairs at 10 1/2 – from then to 12, wrote (pretty close) the latter 3/4 page 2, page 3 and the ends, and under the seal, and read over and sent off my letter began yesterday to mrs. norcliffe (Langton hall) – chit chat – quoted the passage from M-’s[Mariana’s] letter of the 29th November last, about, and in favour of mrs. middleton – Told mrs. N-[Norcliffe] mrs. middleton was ‘the picture of good heart, good spirits, good nature and good nature temper but good judgement was a different sort of thing for which I could less easily give her credit’ – asKed if mrs. N-[Norcliffe] Knew anything of Mrs. M-’s[Middleton’s] niece miss Grace who had been living in her house and to dislodge whom mrs. m-[Middleton] had been obliged to return to England late last year –
after sending off my letter to mrs. N-[Norcliffe] wrote 3 pp.pages and the ends and under the seal to Isabella Dalton to go tomorrow – combatted the probability of the thing and and denied altogether my having had ‘the singular good fortune to get into the best society in Paris’ – ‘Singular indeed it would have been, had it been true..... .... my faith would sooner remove mountains, than persuade me that any person, situated exactly as I was in Paris, could possibly be received in the best society on equal terms’ – etc. etc. then mentioned mademoiselle de Sans, the daughter of the marquis de S-[Sans] of one of the best famous in France related to the de Polignacs etc. and ‘rather distinguée – but, poor girl! she is in delicate health – she will marry, if she lives, long before I can bring her here into yorKshire, or you should see her – she plays on the piano, I had almost said divinely’...... they will all think her a flame of mine – said I had seen marquisses, counts, viscounts, barons, etc. wives of banKers, and of Monsieur de this and de that ‘but such is not the society Paris’ – the ladies of high [?] haut ton peculiarly difficult of access – but hinted I did not despair of getting into this society should I ‘return to Paris, by and by, with a good fortune, and 1 or 2 other little advantages, probably within my reach’ –
after finishing this letter wrote page 2 of my letter began on Sunday (very small and close) to miss McL-[MacLean] then at 5 1/4 went to the worKmen and staid with them till they gave up at 6 20/60 – sauntered home slowly, and came in at 6 1/2 – Dinner at 6 40/60 – Did nothing in the evening – came upstairs at 9 40/60, and wrote all the above of today which tooK mr till 10 5/60 – several showers in the morning fine afternoon rain between 7 and 8 – Barometer 2 1/4 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 51º at 9 40/60 p.m. – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Monday 2 May 1825
5 55/60
10 35/60
LL
gave Hotspur oat cake – George Robinson sent to say Lower brea lane was so bad, no more stones could be led along at – at 7 1/2 went to Lower brea – spoke to George R-[Robinson] ordered the lane to be mended and his man Matthew did it up a little – staid with the men so long, it was 10 1/2 when I got home to breakfast –
Had left my letter to miss PicKford, 11 Gloucester row, Clifton, Bristol, for the post-office before I went out –on returning, found a letter from mrs. Belcombe (Petergate yorK) 3 pp.[pages] and the ends – a very Kind letter – very good account of Dr. Belcombe – mrs. B-[Belcombe] thinKs Mr. C. B. L- [Charles Bourne Lawton] out of his wits to have let M-[Mariana] visit at BerKeley castle – asks if it was the I who saw the treadmill some say it was I not ^Mrs B[elcombe] says yes^ they are dying to know mrs. B-[Belcombe] hopes I shall write, and tell her some of my French adventures –
staid talKing to my uncle and aunt till 12 1/2, then went again to the worKmen and staid with them till 2 – then wrote 1 1/4 page to mrs. Norcliffe – then called downstairs Mr. wilKinson of upper brea here to speaK to my uncle about the ground wanted from Benjamin Bottomley’s field for the Northowram road – very civil – says he will represent to the trustees that my uncle does not wish to throw any unnecessary impediment in their way – only wants to have some agreement for his land – what he is to have for it, etc. etc. at 5 1/4 left mr. wilKinson here, and went to the worKmen – it began raining as I went and rained pretty smartly –
got home at 5 55/60 just before the rain came on still more heavily – Dressed – dinner at 6 1/2 – Tired and sleepy (did not sleep so early as usual last night) and came up to bed at 9 and wrote the above of today – Very fine day – 2 or 3 little showers during the day – heavy rain from about 5 1/4 for near a couple of hours – Barometer 3 1/4 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 50 1/2º at 9 p.m. – E [2 dots inside] O [1 dot inside] –
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Sunday 1 May 1825
8 40/60
11 20/60
Did not give Hotspur oat cake – went down to breakfast at 10 20/60 – staid downstairs talKing – read aloud the whole morning service – Came upstairs at 1 – wrote 2 pp.[pages] to miss PicKford to thanK for the purse she sent my aunt, and her little letter to myself – In answer to should I be at home the this summer say, ‘I have, at present, no idea of the possibility of being able to visit my Scotch friend in the Highlands, during the months of July and August, according to a more than half promise of long standing’ –
then wrote one page to miss McL-[MacLean] (pretty small and close) and went downstairs at 5 – read aloud the psalms and chapters and sermon 118 volume 4 my uncles collection archbishop Tillotson – we are strangers and pilgrims on earth – Dressed and came down to dinner at 6 35/60 –
In the evening read my uncle and aunt my letter to miss P-[Pickford] came upstairs at 9 40/60 at which hour Barometer 2 3/4 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 49º rainy morning – perpetual and heavy showers during the whole day – rainy evening, and little liKelihood of fine weather tomorrow – no ob[s]ervation made on my going to the highlands but doubtless my aunt will think of it – E [2 dots inside] O – added 2 or 3 lines to my letter to miss PicKford mentioning madame Galvani’s 3 pictures, as belonging to an Italian countess and to be bought I thought for 1200 francs –
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Saturday 30 April 1825
7
11
gave Hotspur oat cake sent william Green the 1st thing for stones, and George to the marKet – went to my aunt’s room to tell her this at 8 5/60 – talKed to her a few minutes then went ot the worKmen at the new foot path –
came bacK to breakfast at 10 1/2, having waited a minute or 2 in Charles Howarth’s barn on account of a very heavy shower – went bacK to the men at 11 3/4 – should not been long before it began to rain – went to Lower brea – sat there perhaps near 1/2 hour till the shower was nearly over – then went again to the men – staid with them till 2, when they all went to dinner – 1/4 hour in sauntering home – calculating the different contents of differently inclined slopes, to see what stuff it would take to bacK up the walls of the new raised way across the Tilly sown holm – then wrote the above of today, and went again to the worKmen at 3 3/4 –
Did not got home again till 6 5/60 – dressed and went down to dinner at 6 1/2 – marK Hepworth came to speaK to my uncle and sign his lease (from year to year) of yew trees – read aloud the lease to him, then witnessed his having made his marK a cross, wrote his name for him, and signed my own at full – Dinner at 6 40/60 –
Did nothing in the evening – rain in the morning – vide lines 4 and 5 – the rain heavy while I was at Lower brea with thunder – fine afternoon and evening Barometer 1 2/3 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 50 1/2º at 9 1/4 p.m. at which hour came up to bed – E [2 dots inside] O – two very little drops of discharge –
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Friday 29 April 1825
6
11 1/2
L
gave Hotspur oat cake went to the new foot path at 7 25/60 – staid with the worKmen till very near 10 – then breakfast at 10 – staid talKing to my uncle and aunt till 11 50/60 – then went again to the worKmen and staid with them till 2 – then along the fields by Charles Howarth’s and Godley to the Northowram road – sauntered along the new road they are maKing there – found they had begun cutting my uncles ground- spoke to the men – they began on monday afternoon – got home at 3 – told my uncle – he was annoyed they had done it without agreement – without telling how, when, and what he was to be paid per yard – copied him a letter to Mr Fox their engineer of Horton lane Bradford which my uncle wrote while I was out again –
my father and marian called and brought a small parcel from miss PicKford (11 Gloucester row, Clifton) – a purse she had netted for my aunt (really very neat) and a little scrap of note or letter for me, enclos enclosed in an envelope with a quotation from Dr. E. ClarKe’s letters to mr. Otter in 1801 against Bryant in favour of Troy – at 4 returned to the worKmen and staid with them tilll 6 1/2 a few minutes after they had given up their worK – got home to dinner at 6 40/60 – mr. Sunderland came to see my aunt a little before 8, and staid till 10 1/4 –
detained a little while on account of the heavy rain which came on about between 9 and 10, with every prospect of a rainy night – It has been a very fine day – Barometer 3 1/4 degree below changeable Fahrenheit 50º at 10 20/60 p.m. at which hour came upstairs to bed, and wrote all the above of today – E [1 dot inside] used one syringe of plain cold water just before getting into bed
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