vickikowalewski

[vickikowalewski]

Day 23 - June 14, 2023: Interlaken to Zurich

I started my day fairly early to pack-up and check-out of my place in Interlaken. I got a migraine last night so I was awake for a couple of hours before my migraine medication kicked in. That migraine medication takes a while to work but is a complete game changer for me. I wish I had started taking it sooner.

After I checked out, I decided to take a nice ferry cruise along Lake Brienz this morning. The weather was absolutely gorgeous so I wanted to be outside for a bit before I headed to Zurich. The lake was absolutely gorgeous and blue today. There was also a waterfall at one of the towns but I didn’t get a picture of it because everyone was crowding on the other side of the boat trying to get a picture.

I then got back to my place to grab my bag and head over to the train station. The weather was gorgeous today. Not too hot and not too cold. Warm, sunny, and just right. Wearing my backpack wasn’t bad at all for the 15-20 minute walk. I’ve been carrying it around for 2 weeks so I am used to it at this point. The train ride back to Zurich was quite pleasant. I did sleep a portion of the trip though. The ride was easy, it went directly from Interlaken to the Zurich airport train station.

My hotel is actually inside the airport. It’s a capsule hotel, which I’m pretty excited to try. So far the place seems really nice. My bed is one of 12 beds in a little pod area. There is a spa attached to the bathroom and showers but it is shut-down based on some new Swiss laws regulating energy conservation. Bummer, I was looking forward to trying it out. Only thing I wish I had was a little more room to spread out when I re-pack my bag. I need to fit my hiking boots back into my suitcase so it’s going to be a tight suitcase coming back. I didn’t have room for many souvenirs so I don’t think the few I did purchase will affect me too much.

When I decided to go out on the town, I chose to stop at a place for a drink at a place called Frau Gerolds Garten, which was recommended to me by the Swiss Canadians I met in Lugano. It was very eclectic, and also very crowded. I wasn’t in the mood to stay for the food there. Basically, bar food you would see at any beer garden. I didn’t get any other pictures because there were so many people. You know how the Swiss are with their privacy. It was definitely all locals though.

I ended my night with an Italian food place that was one of my only disappointing meals this trip. It was a white truffle pasta dish that completely lacked flavor. I did manage to have a nice affogato though. I suppose that’s what I get for ordering Italian food in Switzerland. On my way back to my hotel, I stopped at a supermarket and purchased a few Swiss chocolate bars. I haven’t purchased any chocolate out of fear of the chocolate melting. I have no idea which ones are good but I picked a few that were slim and could fit into a backpack easily. I also don’t think the ones I picked are chocolates I could find in the USA.

There are a variety of trams and trains I could have caught to get back to my hotel. One was the IC-8 train. The train is quicker than the tram so I thought why not. Both IC-8 trains were at platforms 31 and 32 leaving at almost exactly the same time. I needed to get on 32 and I accidentally got on 31 instead. Silly me got on the IC-8 going the wrong direction. There usually is another stop 30 minutes later but this one was one of the only direct ones. I had to ride an hour to Bern then rush off and run to the correct train leaving 3 minutes later from 4 platforms away. Thankfully, I made it. I arrived back to the airport around 11:15pm. My 15 minute train ride suddenly turned into over 2 hours, oyyyyy.

I got back, showered, and packed up my bag. It took a little work but I got my bag to pack completely with my winter coat and hiking boots. Woot woot!! This capsule hotel is really quite nice. It’s not your classic dorm or hostel. It feels posh even though I’m sleeping in a capsule. Temperature control is good too. Although there’s a check-in and check-out time, I notice there’s only a virtual check-in and the people in my room appear to be like myself, just trying to get sleep before a morning flight or between layovers. You can hear a pin drop in here. Everything is keyless so you either have the code or hold your phone up to the keypad to get into the dorm and into your room.

Today is my last day in Europe and I’m not ready to leave. My flight doesn’t take-off until 12:05pm so I’ll have time to sleep in and maybe get a coffee if I’m feeling brave enough to take the buses or trains tomorrow after this experience. Maybe, maybe not. Alas, another backpacking trip has come to an end. I am incredibly lucky to have the life that I do. I need to keep reminding myself that when I go back to reality.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 22 - June 13, 2023: Interlaken

I slept in a bit today because I was out fairly late last night but I made sure I didn’t sleep in too much. I only have 2 days left so I wanted to make the most of it.

I started my morning with a trip up the funicular to Harder Kulm, which gave me a great view of both Lake Brienz and Lake Thun. I wondered around the top for a little bit before having some coffee and food at a restaurant up top. I decided to try a rösti for the first time. It ended up being a bit of an alternative version but it was filled with cheese and quite tasty.

I then went down the mountain and decided to take a ferry ride since it was free with my Swiss travel pass. I chose Lake Thun because it was supposed to be a bit more scenic even though it’s a bit larger. I just missed the ferry when I got down so I meandered around town for a bit and then accidentally ended up missing the next ferry. I then decided to sit my butt down at the ferry terminal and wait for the next one, which I did catch. The ferry is actually an old time steamboat which is pretty cool.

The weather was pretty overcast but the ride was nice. I got some pictures of castles along the way. It was a nice way to kill a couple of hours. The ferry ended in Thun so I took a little time to walk around the town. It was very beautiful. I didn’t want to take the ferry back because it was a 2 hour ride so I chose to catch a train back to Interlaken instead, which only took 30 minutes.

I was hungry when I got back into town so I enjoyed a nice dinner at a Swiss restaurant. I am pretty addicted to the Swiss lake fish and this meal did not disappoint. It was so good I took a few bites before I remembered to take a photo. I’m going to go to bed early because I want to visit Lake Brienz in the morning before I go back to Zurich tomorrow. Goodnight!

[vickikowalewski]

Day 21 - June 12, 2023: Interlaken

I woke up fairly early this morning to make it to the train station because I wanted to see quite a bit today.

I first started in Grindelwald and I wanted to do a a Toboggan. Mountain coasters and toboggans are a big thing in Switzerland so I felt like it was a must do. I took a funicular up a hill with a Toboggan run. It was actually quite cheap, 6 CHF. You aren’t supposed to carry any items with on the toboggan that can get lost so I put everything in a locker. Come to find out many people didn’t listen. Ride at your own risk, I suppose. The seat was a bit too big for me and had a brake lever in-between the legs. The ride was nice but not incredibly fast and quite short, which is probably why it’s kid-friendly. I did see scratch marks from some people going fast. I’m not really sure how because I had the break off almost the entire ride and I wasn’t going fast at all. I added a picture where you can see a bit of the track going down the cliff, it’s behind the hiking trail. There’s a lift that takes you back to the top so no walking required.

Afterwards, I went back down the mountain and I took a stroll around the town on my way to the Jungfraujoch. It was quite scenic. The gondola station was a little difficult to find but I eventually found it. The price for the trip was steep, 160 CHF with a Swiss Travel Pass to go up the Gondola and Eiger Express from Grindelwald, and then take the train back down to Klein Scheidegg and Lauterbrunnen.

The views going up were great in the Gondola. It was hard getting a photo though because my Gondola was so crowded. I met an American on the ride and we had a little small talk. The Eiger Express up the mountain was mostly in a tunnel. There was a point in time the train stopped where you could get off for photos but you only had 5 minutes which seemed really stressful so I stayed on the train.

The top was really, really nice but I am a little biased to say that I liked Glacier Paradise better. It was also so bright and sunny, and quite warm too. I was glad I had sunglasses. There was quite a bit to do, including a 45 minute walk in the snow to huts engraved into the mountain. I realized the walk was 1.5 hour round-trip though. A possible a stop at the restaurant wouldn’t be conducive for me because the place closed at 5pm and it was already 2pm. I ended up not doing it. I wore my hiking shoes and the shoes did work okay in the slushy snow but they weren’t great. I saw someone hiking in campons so I think I needed some ice spikes if I wanted to truly wanted to go walking in the snow. I saw a lot of people slipping in tennis shoes so I’m glad I didn’t have those. There was also an ice palace and the floor was made of ice. Again, I’m glad I wore my hiking shoes. The shoe’s definitely helped.

My trip down the mountain ended up being both interesting and eventful. On the Eiger Express, I met a couple who had the cutest dog named Sara. I chatted with them a bit because I was surprised they took her up to the Jungfraujoch. Apparently, they take her everywhere. They said she’s like their kid. Her ticket to ride cost 40 CHF. The ride ended with a Swiss chocolate.

The train station I had to switch at was a bit hectic and confusing. You basically had to get off the Eiger Express and either get on a train to Grindelwald or to Lauterbrunnen. The Grindelwald train was easy to just get on but the Lauterbrunnen one was confusing and a random line started to form but the sign said for tour groups only. I didn’t know how to board the train. As I was walking around trying to figure out what to do, this man very aggressively ran into me and and rubbed up against my pant leg. It seemed a bit unnecessary. It was crowded but not packed. Maybe 10 minutes later after I talked to a train official to get help and the train was about to board, I realized the zipper on my hiking pants was unzipped and my ticket was missing. I could not believe it, I was pickpocketed!! The thief took my train ticket!!! I spoke extensively to the conductor about the issue and I showed him my receipt but alas, I had no ticket so I ended up having to pay an additional 22 CHF for the train ride down the mountain. I was so frustrated. The Swiss took my complaint very seriously and tried to find the culprit, but no such luck. I still had my phone, my wallet, and my passport so that was what was most important. But I was shook. I couldn’t believe what happened to me, especially in Switzerland. I am always so careful. I never guessed putting my train ticket in a zippered pocket for easy access would be my demise. The worst part was I had my Toboggan ticket in the other zippered pant pocket. If they just took that one, I would have been fine. I suppose this is why you prepare for pickpocketing. I learned from this experience that pickpocketing happens everywhere and is inevitable if you travel enough. You just have to hope it’s not a valuable because you can’t always stop it from happening no matter how careful you are. I’m very lucky. It could have been much worse. Below is the last known photo of my stolen ticket with my Swiss chocolate.

I was in a terrible mood on the train but I did manage to get some beautiful photos. I planned to stay and get a cocktail in Lauterbrunnen but I was not in the mood after that experience so I took a train directly back to Interlaken. I just wanted to be done with the transit system for the day.

I decided to have dinner at a nice Swiss restaurant because I needed to treat myself after my fiasco. I have seen Cordon Bleu on the menu for the entire trip and I decided to finally get it for dinner. It was excellent. Ironically, I was sitting at a back corner of the outdoor restaurant by the sidewalk and the American I met on the gondola recognized me as I was finishing dinner. We talked for a good 2 hours and we went out to a bar for a bit afterwards. Not too long though because the Swiss close everything early. He’s close to my age and he’s a nice guy. He’s heading to Zermatt so I gave him some tips for his visit. We parted ways and I walked the dark, sleepy neighborhood back to my place. I was surprised to see a few people out and about so late.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 20 - June 11, 2023: Zermatt to Interlaken

I woke up early in the morning to an absolutely gorgeous day in Zermatt. Not a cloud in the sky. I wanted to do one last load of laundry for the trip and I wanted to get the clothes in at 7am when the washers opened before anyone else. The entire hostel is sharing one washer and dryer so it’s nearly impossible to get the machine, especially with so many families staying.

I threw my clothes in the washer and went down the the scenic viewpoint to catch some completely clear views of the Matterhorn. Not a cloud in the sky to obstruct it. Only problem was the sun wasn’t high enough in the sky to light up the valley yet for a good photo. It was still beautiful though.

I made an executive decision that I needed to do Matterhorn Glacier Paradise before I left. I considered trying to squeeze in a trip to Randa for the suspension bridge but I figured it would be too much. I ended up being completely right. I had breakfast, finished my laundry, packed up, and checked out. Luggage storage was limited but the lady at the front desk let me store my luggage in a locker in the ski room, which was just fine. Everything is unlocked for the most part in Switzerland so that’s very helpful with limited reception. It’s a very safe place and you need money to stay in Zermatt so people generally don’t care to steal anyways. I still lock up my items to be safe though.

By the time I made it out of the hostel at 10am, the light clouds were coming so I had to hurry. You never know when the weather will change. There was construction going on at the ticket booth area so it was a bit confusing trying to get a ticket. There’s also a lot of stops, such as in Furi. I eventually figured it out with the ticket office and off I went! There’s 3 stops and switches on the way up. The first is in Furi for general hiking, the second is moving towards the top of the mountain, the third is at the top of Glacier Paradise. The views were spectacular! I even had a rare sighting of mountain goats on the mountain. I tried to get a video but I don’t think they can be seen. One of the best gondola rides I’ve ever done. It was unbelievable.

Glacier Paradise was truly incredible. I honestly thought it was more impressive than the top of the Gornergrat. You’re basically at the top of a glacier that you can walk around and can even ski or snowboard. I also watched an excursion of people climbing Breithorn. There’s also an ice palace dug into the glacier with ice sculptures and a slide. It was really incredible.

I eventually made it back down to my hostel after stopping at the top for lunch. The altitude was over 12,000 feet and I was feeling it. I’ve learned from this trip that some food and hydration typically help. Soup with bread and alcohol-free beer worked tremendously well. I’m becoming a big fan of the alcohol-free beer when I’m dehydrated or dealing with altitude sickness. It works much better than mineral or vitamin water in my opinion. I caught a train around 2pm and slowly made my way to Interlaken.

Interlaken is another confusing place, there’s two stations for the city and I had to get off at West, not the main station of Ost. I’m staying in a private room at the hostel and the hostel a bit off the beaten path. I’ve heard it’s extremely difficult to find affordable housing in Interlaken because there’s so few hotels and Airbnb places to stay so the prices are generally outrageous and very limited. I really felt like I lucked out. I have a single bed, a sink in my room, and even an air conditioner. However, Europe, especially Switzerland, has cracked down on air conditioners and you can’t control the temperature setting. It’s stays around 73 degrees at all times.

I had dinner and walked around the town a bit. I went to an Italian restaurant that was unbelievably beautiful inside. The weather was nice though so I chose to sit outside instead. Google Sapori and you’ll be amazed by the inside of the place. Stunning. The town is overall quite nice but I was expecting both lakes to be closer in sight for some reason. I eventually got back and couldn’t get my blog to work so I chose to go to bed instead.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 19 - June 10, 2023: Zermatt

I slept in a little bit woke up to a ton of rain and low clouds. You couldn’t see anything. I was highly disappointed. I wanted to do the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise and/or go hiking to the Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge. I was told to not even bother going up to the peaks with heavy cloud coverage because you can’t see anything. I verified that with the webcam at the top. I also knew from experience the previous day that the rocks in Zermatt become quite slippery even with a small bit of rain. I looked online and the hike was not recommended in poor weather conditions due to the risk for slipping. Painfully, I decided to bag both Glacier Paradise and the hike to the suspension bridge.

I chose to do a more simple hike instead. I hiked along the Gorner Gorge. It was really stunning. I could barely hear myself think the water was rushing so loud. I only have one good picture but it went very beautiful and went quite a long way.

I ended up leaving the Gorge on the other side of the river and hiking along the river, eventually crossing into the town of Blatton. It was not a difficult hike but it was very beautiful. I also saw another highly rated restaurant that I assume hikers frequent. I chose not to stop though because I wasn’t hungry at the time. The trail went through the town and then passed some sheep and cows. Eventually, I made my way back into Zermatt.

I wanted to stop off at my hostel but my room was getting cleaned. I had to make alternative plans. I tried to go to the Matterhorn museum because it was still raining quite a bit. Unfortunately, I learned it’s only open from 3-6pm. What!? Only in Switzerland does everything close early and barely stay open. I ended up finding a French Restaurant that began serving lunch and I couldn’t help but stop when I saw the menu. I ordered escargot followed by veal tartare. It was divine. A bit of a splurge but well worth it. I also used the time spent at the restaurant to catch up on my blog.

I had 30 minutes before the Matterhorn Museum opened so I ended up walking around some of the shops. I met a really interesting Swiss guy working at one of the outrageously priced outdoors shops and we had a great chat. He mentioned to me that double the amount of people have died on the Matterhorn compared to Mount Everest, 600 people on the Matterhorn compared to 300 people on Everest. He explained it’s usually during the descent because the rocks are loose at the top and people can slip if they aren’t careful. Crazy! Around 3pm, I made my way to the Matterhorn Museum. The Matterhorn Museum was quite interesting and a good way to kill an hour. I didn’t realize the Matterhorn became famous from 4 climbers dying just as they were about to reach the summit because the rope broke. The remains of the rope were still intact and present in the museum. The rope was very questionable if you ask me. One girl looked at me and goes, “Thats an awful thin rope to trust your life with.” I agree and that’s probably why it failed.

I was feeling very tired after the museum and decided to take a nap before hitting the town again. The weather finally cleared up and I managed to get a great photo with the Matterhorn. Have patience, make multiple plans, and expect unpredictable weather are the main things I’ve learned about Zermatt. Joys of mountain life.

I ended the night at a pub watching the Champions League Final. I met a Scottish man whose daughter attended West Liberty and played soccer. I also met an Australian living in Bologna. It was a good night. Man City won as expected. The Norwegian girl checked out early to go to France but then couldn’t find a place to stay, which seemed dumb to me but whatever floats your boat. There was no one else in the room with me last night. It was amazing. I had a 4-bed en-suite all to myself. I’m beginning to think that the Norwegian girl booked the additional 2 beds because she wanted the room mostly to herself. Each bed was around $40. You could book all 4 beds and stay for $120. That’s not a bad deal in Zermatt. That’s probably why there were so many families staying in the 4 bed en-suite rooms.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 18- June 9, 2023: Zermatt

I woke up early to take advantage of the good weather but even when this happens, I still feel like the day slips away from me. The breakfast at my hostel was outstanding. It was like a hotel buffet.

I decided to try the famous 5 lakes walk, which took about 4 hours. Not all of the cable cars and gondolas are open because snow is still very present on the mountains so you can’t do all the traditional hikes mentioned online. I had to get off the gondola at Sunegga. The hike was lots of ups and downs. I honestly wish I had hiking poles because some of the downhill portions were quite terrifying. If you slid wrong, you could fall off the cliff. The views were beyond worth it though. I was recommended to do the hike counter clockwise and that was a good call. Only downside was the clouds came in the last hour or two of the hike so I didn’t get great photos of the most famous lake. For the best photos, it’s recommended to go at 7am or at dusk anyways. I decided not to overdo it this time and get myself sick so I stopped for lunch at the top of the mountain. I had hiked 7 miles and burned over 1,000 calories (probably more at altitude). I got alcohol-free beer and goulash with bread. I didn’t think I would like alcohol free beer but it’s actually the absolute best after a long hike. My body was craving the carbs without the dehydrating effects of alcohol. I now know understand why many professional soccer players drink alcohol free beer after games. It’s a game-changer after strenuous activity. You don’t even care that it tastes like watered down beer when your body needs carbs and hydration.

The clouds were coming in but I decided to take the Gornergrat train before the visibility got too severe. I heard you shouldn’t take any cable car, gondola, or train if you can’t see anything so I decided it was now to never. I planned on doing more hiking from Gornergrat to Riffelsee Lake but was shocked when I eventually reached the top. The place was absolutely covered in snow. There are still giant glaciers at the top. I saw people hiking in the snow but I said forget it and went back down on the cable car. I actually talked to people who got stuck in chest deep snow off the trail and the lake was almost completely frozen so I was glad I bagged it. The train ride and 360 views at the top were stunning though. Seeing snowy peaks was a different experience but worth it. Apparently, most of the snow won’t melt until mid-July.

I ended up coming back down the mountain and met up with my Norwegian friend who met a physician out hiking. All 3 of us healthcare workers went out to a restaurant for Fondue at the same restaurant I went to the previous day, which I wasn’t super excited about, but it turned out to be a great night. Both of them wanted traditional Swiss food so I gave in. I had the same waitress from the night previously and she was so nice. I tipped her yesterday a couple of CHF and I tipped her again tonight. She was great. We got a truffle fondue and a chocolate fondue for desert which both were extra delicious. Truffle definitely belongs in cheesy fondue. We were out late having a good night so I went home and crashed hard after a long day.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 17 - June 8, 2023: Zermatt

I checked out of my Airbnb in Lucerne. It was a very nice stay but I was excited for Zermatt. I had two choices of trains but I decided to take the slightly longer train that didn’t switch platforms in Bern. Sometimes smaller stations are just easier to switch platforms and my check-in wasn’t until 4pm so I had time. I forgot it was a national holiday so I saw my train had food service, but I realized it was closed when I got on the train. Ugh, I needed my coffee. I ended up having a 20 minute layover at a smaller station and amazingly, there was a Dunkin’ and it was open! I laughed talking to the worker at the Dunkin who looked very young (traditional Dunkin worker), the American company doesn’t follow traditional Swiss holidays. It’s always open! I ordered a coffee crème donut which was to die for. Tastes nothing like Dunkin’ in the USA. A million times better.

I finally arrived around 2:15pm. The train from Visp was more chaotic than I expected and this is the low season. I managed to get luggage storage and a seat but there was nowhere to sit or put luggage for many people. The conductor was yelling at everyone to take a seat and store the luggage somewhere safe. Lots of non-English speakers who had no idea what was going on. Also, all the toilets except one was broken. I waited over 15 minutes for a very questionable toilet. It was a mess.

Eventually I arrived to Zermatt. Wow, what a place! I didn’t realize it is a car free town. Only cars you’ll see going by are small electric taxis and hotel shuttles. Some of the hotels are on hills so I understand it would be conducive to have a shuttle for heavy packers.

I had some time so I took some pictures because the weather was nice and the Matterhorn was peaking his head, which I’ve heard seeing the Matterhorn in Zermatt is very hit-or-miss. You enjoy the views and weather when you can because the weather is completely unpredictable.

I had tons of recommendations from the Canadians living in Switzerland so I decided to consider trying those places out. I was planning on heading to a recommended pub when I saw a Creperie place called Stefanie’s Creperie that was highly recommended to me. I was told it’s supposed to be open daily but she’s Swiss, so she opens and closes whenever the hell she feels like. Sometimes she’s even closed for days or weeks at a time if she doesn’t feel like working. It’s a tiny place you go to the window and it’s cash-only. Below and behold, she was open! I went ahead and got a crepe for her because I didn’t know when she’ll be open again. There was also no line, which I was told there’s always a long line. I felt like I hit the jackpot even though I heard Stefanie is can be super rude, which I can confirm she is rude. I got a salmon crepe and it was divine. I ended up washing it down with a beer from the Brown Cow Pub, another recommendation to me, to kill time until check-in.

I wasn’t 100% sure what to do after check-in because everything closes so early in Switzerland. I decided to use another recommendation from the Canadians to hike up to Edelweiss restaurant at the top of a mountain before it closed at 6pm. It was a challenging 45 minute uphill hike but the really amazing views at the top made it well worth it. I was surprised to learn that it was a hotel too and people have to hike uphill with luggage to stay there. The owner was so kind and gracious. Really, really nice guy. How can you be stressed when you live with those views and peacefulness? It started to drizzle at the top so I went inside to enjoy some famous homemade apple pie and homemade iced tea.

I eventually got back to my hostel and freshened up, then went out for a light dinner but ended up ordering meat fondue. I knew the weather would be nice tomorrow and I would be hiking a lot so I felt okay with my decision. When I got back to my hostel, I met a Polish Norwegian who was a nurse and we had a great chat. Even better, there were two open beds for some reason so we basically had a 4 bed room to ourselves. It was great. I was exhausted so I passed out fairly early knowing I needed to wake up early to go hiking.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 16 - June 7, 2023: Lucerne

I woke up very early today because I had to start my laundry at 7am. There’s scheduled times for laundry so I had to reserve my spot in line. I completed the washing cycle and moved my items to the dryer when my Airbnb host came down to help. She ended up telling me the weather was too nice to wait for 2 hours and told me she’d text my neighbor to take care of the clothes that I would leave in the dryer. How kind! I was not thrilled about waiting around for an additional 2 hours so I felt like I hit the jackpot.

I wanted to see Mount Pilatus today so I decided to take the Golden Roundtrip, which consists of going up the gondola and down the cable car, then taking the ferry back. The bus to the gondola was quick and painless. I met some ladies in their 80s on my gondola doing some light hiking. One had a knee replacement 6 months ago. Holy cow, that’s dedication.

I got off on the second stop for some photos and it was just beautiful outside. The paragliding, bobsled, and ropes courses just opened too so it was fun to watch people try their luck. I then took the gondola up the rest of the route to the top of Mount Pilatus. It required some stairs but the views were beyond worth it. There was another section to explore but I decided to get a beer at the restaurant at the top instead. The crowds were starting to come and I eventually wanted a spot at the restaurant. I ended up sitting with some Americans from Atlanta and we ended up talking for 2 hours. It was a great conversation.

I then decided to go down the mountain via cable car. The views were amazing and the car stopped at a section with cows and cowbells. Very scenic and traditional Swiss culture.

I had about an hour until the next ferry so I used the time to grab some lunch. I was extremely excited that they had currywurst! I have not seen that on the menu since I was in Berlin. I just had to order it, and it was so tasty. The ferry ride was beautiful on the way back. I had a hard time getting pictures though because so many tourists were doing the same as me.

I came back to my apartment to fold my laundry. Then I took a brief nap before dinner. I completely forgot tomorrow was a national holiday. I stupidly didn’t make any reservations and went at 7pm, which is prime dinner time for the Swiss. I had to walk around for over 30 minutes trying to find a place to eat. I finally found a place and sat my butt down. I got some traditional Swiss dishes such as rohschinken and raclette. Overall, the food was okay but I was eating a mediocre touristy restaurant. I was grateful because it was the only place with an open table. All the highly rated restaurants were booked solid. I went home, showered, and passed out early. I was completely exhausted.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 15 - June 6, 2023: Lucerne

My morning started out rough. I woke up at 7:30am this morning to a jackhammer outside my window. Thank you construction. My Airbnb host apologized but it was just all very frustrating. I wanted to sleep in desperately. I then missed the bus by 30 seconds. I was walking to get on the back door of the bus and the bus drove off. Then that caused me to wait for the next bus, which was a few minutes late (very unusual in Switzerland). Then I missed the 11am train I wanted to catch by 1 minute. Literally, I ran up on the platform as it was pulling away from the station. It was all very frustrating. I ended up finding another train to catch through Bellinzona but I thought it was the Gotthard Panorama Express. For that train, you have to book a 1st class seat and I was afraid I was going to get into trouble so I did for a leg of the trip. After I booked my ticket, I later learned the train I rode just went over the same tracks but was not the Gotthard Panorama Express. So I booked a first class seat for nothing. Ugh!

First class was quite nice though. I treated myself to a black coffee and some chocolate biscuits. I thought they were cookies but they were actually biscuits with chocolate on top. Interesting flavor, overall okay. The chocolate was the best part. The ride was quite scenic but did have some tunnels. I was told by the Canadians ladies I need to take bus 110 from Andermatt for the Gotthard Pass next time. I heard it’s not for the faint of heart but the views are much better than the train.

I arrived in Lucerne 2 hours later than I wanted to because I missed the train but it was okay. I survived. Lucerne is fantastic. It’s an absolutely gorgeous town and it was a gorgeous day. I stopped for a late lunch at a restaurant by the water. I got some lake fish that was very lightly breaded and minimally fried, tasted nothing like the lake fish in Wisconsin. It was really good. I was so hungry though I didn’t even take a photo. Maybe I was also dying from the prices. I paid $36 CHF basically for some very elaborate fish and chips.

The day was getting late so I decided to end it with a lake tour, which was free with my Swiss Rail Pass. My Swiss Rail Pass has been pretty awesome at getting me free and heavily discounted activities, especially since I’m spending an exorbitant amount of money on food. It’s really the commuter ferry but you see the same thing as a tour you would pay money for. The ferries are a bit confusing so I ended up having to talk to the ferry captain who directed me to a ferry stop that had another ferry coming back to Lucerne 10 minutes later. The trip was about 1.5 hours. The skyline was gorgeous and everyone was out and about enjoying the weather. It was really nice. I would take pictures of the water activities but I learned it’s illegal to take photos of Swiss people without their permission. You just have to believe me.

I ended the day with a glass of wine and a small garden salad at a little restaurant with an outdoor German opera going on down the street. The music and singing was quite nice. It was a good way to end the night. I had to reserve the washer and dryer downstairs for 7am tomorrow so I can make it to Mount Pilatus in a timely manner. Ugh. I better get to bed. I don’t think I’m every going to have a chance to sleep in for a while. I’ve just given up on it.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 14 - June 5, 2023: Lugano

Well, I was woken up bright and early by a construction worker banging on my window at 8am demanding me in Italian to close it. I was pretty irritated to say nonetheless. I would have liked to have been given some advance notice from my Airbnb host. It was very startling.

Today was a bit of a lazy day. I started the morning off with some coffee and then took a bus to an “olive grove trail” and walked for about an hour along the trail to the fishing city Gandria. The walk didn’t appear to be through an olive grove but I saw lots of cute, soggy dogs who jumped in the lake for a swim. I have come to learn the Swiss love their dogs. You will see dogs anywhere and everywhere. The city was very small and very hilly. I had an espresso by the water and decided to take the ferry back to Lugano. I heard the ferry was slow but scenic. That would be an accurate statement. Once back in Lugano, I had a very nice lunch of octopus salad before grabbing the ferry to Morcote, another scenic fishing town. It was also very hilly but a tad bigger and more scenic for panoramic photos.

I then decided to take the bus back towards town because the bus is much faster. I ended up impulsively stopping in Paradiso so I could catch the funicular to Mounte San Salvador. It was a very empty funicular because the weather was a bit chilly today and it closed at 6pm but I actually liked the view better than Mounte Bré. I only stayed about 20 minutes for photos before heading back down because it looked like it was going to rain.

I ended my night at a tiny restaurant that was difficult to find but very tasty. I had perch with risotto, it tasted nothing like Lake Michigan perch. Exceptionally good. I sat next to some Canadians living in Switzerland and we made quite a night of it. I also got some great local tips. Off to bed, I am certain I will be woken up early from the construction.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 13 - June 4, 2023: Lugano

I checked out of my hostel in La Spezia today. The weather was beautiful while I was visiting and it was supposed to rain today, so I’m glad I got out when I did. I had 8 euro in cash left over that I gave to the professional dancer in my room. I could have spent it or saved it for another trip, but sometimes it’s nice to give to a Backpacker with the hope that she’ll pay it forward to someone else one day. I know I appreciated the generosity of others when I was younger.

The journey to Lugano was pretty smooth, aside from almost getting on the wrong train in Milan. The train was supposed to arrive on platform 12 but there was a change in platforms as I was walking to the train. I suddenly realized I was going to Venice and managed to get off the train just in time. I eventually found the train I was supposed to be on that moved to platform 6. I met a nice Italian couple on the train who I ran into later on the street. I didn’t understand their English very well but they were quite friendly.

I am staying with an Airbnb host this time and I took the scenic bus route recommended to me from the train station when I arrived. It was short but quite nice. Because the bus ride was short, I arrived 15-20min early. I felt a bit bad that I arrived early, she was still cleaning and seemed a bit frantic that I arrived before I said I would. Her daughter is named Victoria too, who is a teenager and seemed less than enthusiastic to meet me. I don’t think I’d like sharing my space either with random strangers, especially if I was a teenager.

I was starving when I got in but it’s a ghost town in Switzerland on a Sunday so I walked to the only place open which was the tourist district, and sat down at a nice restaurant for a Caesar salad. I momentarily forgot prices are steep in Switzerland so 20 USD for a salad hurt my heart quite a bit. It tasted quite good though and was not over-dressed.

The weather was surprisingly nice and not much was open so I decided to do some light outdoor activities today. I was pleasantly surprised to see how quiet the tourist area was. I’ve been dealing with chaos for the past week so it was a nice reprieve. I walked along the gardens by the Lake and went up to the top of Mount Bre on the funicular. I met quite a few people on the funicular going up to Mount Bre. We had some good conversation and one steered me towards some possible activities for the next day. Mount Bre was scenic but smelled a lot like cow. There were also lots of cows roaming around at the top.

I ended the night with some pasta at one of the only restaurants open in the tourist district which tasted okay. I would say mildly forgettable, but I’m just glad some places were open on a Sunday so I really shouldn’t complain. I have been going and going touring over the past week so I passed out early in the evening.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 12 - June 3, 2023: Cinque Terre

The day started fairly late for me. The street cleaner woke me up at 6am but I eventually fell back to sleep. I woke up again around 9am and decided to head to Monterosso since I didn’t see much of it the first day. Given it was a holiday weekend and the weather was nice, everyone was at the train station. It was extremely hard to find a spot to stand on the platform, but I did find one at the end of the platform. Unfortunately, the train went past my end of the platform and it was me and 200 of my closest friends trying to get on the back car of the train. I just gave up and went to the another platform to wait 20min for the next train. There was no point in pushing and fighting for a spot. I ended up getting a seat on the very crowded train so I was happy.

The town of Monterosso was quite nice, lots of people having a beach day. I felt it was a tad too cold for the beach, mid-70s with water temps in the upper 60s. Yuck, no thanks. Obviously, many others would disagree with me. I walked around and stopped to have a cappuccino to pass the time.

I wanted to take a ferry to see Cinque Terre from the sea so I ended up taking a ferry from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. The boat was a bit far from the shoreline but it was overall nice and way less crowded and chaotic than the train. Only town I didn’t get a good view of from the water was Vernazza, which at this point I would say was my favorite.

Riomaggiore was nice. I tried to get a reservation at a restaurant to watch the sunset by the harbor but that was a complete joke. There’s really only 2-3 places for a sunset view based on the layout of the town and they were booked a long time ago. I stopped and enjoyed some Cinque Terre wine before going back to Manarola.

I wanted to be back in Manarola to try Nessun Dorma, a very famous restaurant overlooking Manarola. You have to book your seat in a virtual wait using their app, which I’m so glad I learned in advance. The restaurant opened at 4pm and you can book your spot at exactly 3:30pm. I booked right at 3:30pm and I was 40th(!!) in line. Apparently everyone had the same idea I did. The restaurant was very chaotic too with many people not understanding the process. It was fine once you got in the restaurant though. Someone next to me booked a spot in line when the restaurant opened at 4pm and they were 223 on the wait list. Once the restaurant opened, it wasn’t a very long wait for me. Maybe 30 minutes. My big mistake was reapplying sunscreen before I went into the restaurant. I ended up getting sunscreen in my eye and it created a whole mess in which I scratched my eye trying to get the sunscreen out. Everyone thought I was crying at the restaurant when in fact I couldn’t get the sunscreen out of my eye after 2 bouts of splashing water on my face and rinsing my eye repeatedly. The food was delicious though and the staff were very kind and showed a lot of patience with my debacle. The restaurant also had menu items for 2+ people and they made me a special one person plate, which was still a lot of food. I didn’t get the scenic seated I wanted but it was okay because I couldn’t even see out of one eye to take a decent picture. I would have looked like I had pink eye if I took the photo I wanted. I did manage to get a really good photo prior to my debacle though.

I ended up having to skip my sunset view to go back to my hostel to shower and get the sunscreen off my face. I also stopped at the pharmacy to pick up eye drops. A shower and some eye drops worked wonders. I felt like a whole new woman after a shower and eye drops. My eye cleared up over the next few hours.

I ended up meeting a British dancer in my hostel room and a couple from the USA staying in my room came by as well. We ended up all going out together and having a great time with charcuterie and 2 bottles of wine. I didn’t see the sunset I wanted in Riomaggiore but I had a great night.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 11 - June 2, 2023: Cinque Terre

Today started later than I wanted to. I didn’t wake up until 8am. I must be tired and needing to catch up on some sleep. It took a little bit to get going because I needed to eat, get ready, and pack my bag. This hostel has fresh made granola for breakfast (I watched and smelled them making it the night prior) and it was super delicious. The hostel worker also taught me how to use an Italian coffee maker. It’s really not that difficult even though it looks intimidating.

I ended up booking my Cinque Terre card online and man, was I glad I did that. The train station was complete chaos and the line for assistance for tickets went outside of the train station. The train was also absolutely packed. Pure madness.

I got off the train in Monterosso and the fun began. Monterosso is the only town with a beach so it’s quite scenic but rocky. I’ve heard the better beaches with sand are further away. That didn’t stop many people from laying out. I was surprised. It was warm but not that warm. Maybe mid-to-low 70s.

My goal today was to hike the trail between cities, or what I could. The trail between Monterosso and Vernazza started steep but leveled out. Lots of foot traffic and it was technically supposed to be a one way only but that didn’t work out due to the large number of people. I stopped in Vernazza and got some delicious street food and a Fanta that actually was from a restaurant. It was so good but so rich. There were a few bites I couldn’t quite finish.

The hike between Vernazza and Corniglia was surprisingly not too bad. I thought that was going to be the hardest part of the trail but it wasn’t at all. I celebrated with gelato in Corniglia. I decided to try something different and I got lemon and basil gelato. It was quite good and very refreshing.

I was feeling good so I decided to do the difficult hiking route next from Corniglia to Manarola. I think I should have waited for the next day because I really didn’t know what I was getting myself into. It was fabulous but quite strenuous getting up and coming down. You basically walk at the top of a mountain overlooking the sea and through a lot of vineyards. I wanted to stop for a glass of wine at a little wine bar in the vineyards but it was closed for the holiday. Bummer. I was okay until the very end coming down the hill. That last half mile just felt like it would never end. Then I got to Monarola and the entire town is sloped downhill. I could have died. My legs were jello. Looking at my phone, I just realized I was so exhausted that I didn’t even take a photo in Manarola other than beer. I was feeling really, really bad so I decided to stop for the day. I got a large beer, a focaccia, and a liter of water. It took a while but I eventually came back to life after some food. Finding the train home was also confusing and I was displeased to be walking so much at that point but I did eventually find it.

I decided I needed a shower before dinner because I was disgusting and sweaty. It was a good opportunity for resting my legs as well. I even sat while blow drying my hair. Dinner tonight was difficult to find because today is a national holiday. Everything was booked solid. I did find a decent place though and tried a new pasta, trofie. It’s like a longer version of a spatzle but similar texture. It wasn’t my absolute favorite but it was pretty good. I ended the night at the beer garden by the sea for a cocktail.

I am beyond exhausted but glad I checked this off my bucket list! Time for bed, goodnight!

[vickikowalewski]

Day 10 - June 1, 2023: La Spezia

I woke up fairly early this morning because I needed to catch my train at 11am. I had my laundry folded but not packed so I needed a little extra time to get ready. I did forget to give my extra bus tickets to a 22 year old Aussie girl in my hostel room. I accidentally got an extra round trip ticket on the bus due to a language barrier issue. Cinque Terre is a major highlight of my trip that I’ve waited 10 years to do so I was certain to be on time for my train. I didn’t want to miss my train. It’s actually a beautiful day in Lake Como so I was a little disappointed to be leaving. Many people in the hostel were going to the beach today.

Well, I was really tired. I changed trains in Milan and then slept half of the rest of the ride. I didn’t realize I was so tired. When I arrived in La Spezia, I immediately checked into my hostel and got some nice tips on things to do. One of the items was to visit Porto Venere. Another item was a drag show at a beer garden across the street from my hostel. Although the drag show sounded hilarious, I chose the quaint town. The bus sounded so easy but then I somehow got on the wrong bus. I didn’t even realize for a good 15 minutes. Ugh! Basically, I had to wait about 40 minutes for the next bus to pass through and then my 30 minute trip turned into a 45 minute additional trip. I didn’t arrive until around 6:30pm. I was extremely hungry so my plans to get a snack and walk around the town were thwarted.

The town was very picturesque though. I sat by the sea, which got a little chilly as the sun began to set, and watched the rich people park their yachts. I also watched some locals use their pontoon boat to cross the bay between the yachts to pick-up a pizza and some wine to take it home. Tomorrow is a holiday so the town was bustling with locals. I decided to head home before it got dark because the roads are pretty scary and I don’t want to be on a bus in the dark, even though I’m certain the locals are responsible. The ride home was very picturesque. Many of the subsequent towns along the route look quite similar.

Tonight I met a USA couple traveling Europe together post-college graduation who are staying in my room with me. There’s also a super old guy who looks like he’s doing some serious hiking. He’s old but he’s really fit. My plan is to do Cinque Terre tomorrow so goodnight!

[vickikowalewski]

Day 9 - May 31, 2023: Lake Como

It was pouring rain so I started my day very slowly. I considering trying to wake up early to get the hydroferry to Verenna to see a few sites I didn’t get to but I did not feel like standing out in the pouring, cold rain. I went back to sleep until 9am. I was the only female in a room full of 5 males the night prior so I was thrilled to have a female in the room with me. The bathroom was absolutely disgusting with 5 guys. More females came later in the day as well because the group of guys left for Switzerland.

I spent today walking around Como, which has plenty to see in of itself. It was chilling in the morning so I started with the Churches, then moved onward to Villa Olmo. Everything was free to my surprise! I also stopped at Museum Volta with no idea what it was about. It was a very small building and 5 euro to get inside, but had no one it inside. I found out it was because the museum had not been translated into English yet. The man running the ticket booth ended up giving me a mini translation and it was extremely interesting. It was about the man who I invented the first volt battery and ran experiments with it. The museum included some artifacts of his first experiments with science.

I stopped back at my hostel briefly and ran into someone who told me laundry was available upstairs on the third floor. I was in desperate need to do laundry and planned on doing it the next day. The machine was open so I seized the moment and took a tourism break to do my laundry. I went to the store and bought some lunch and enjoyed it with a beer.

I decided to end my day with taking the funicular to the top of the mountain overlooking Como. There is a panoramic lighthouse that was a fairly steep uphill walk to get to. Overall, it was worth it and quite nice. Getting up the mountain was quick but getting back down the mountain took a little while. There was a 45 minute line.

I hadn’t had pizza since I had been in Italy so I enjoyed a pizza for dinner at a restaurant recommended by my hostel. It was really delicious but it made me extremely full. When I got back to my hostel, I saw the La Liga final was starting at 9pm so I took a shower quickly and hurried to find a spot to watch the game.

I ended up chatting with an American for a while who I found to be quite.. meh. I could not believe this guy. He flunked out of college and he still managed to get a job in IT with no degree. No one has ever checked that he actually has a college education. He did mention he was taking one class at a time though and working towards actually earning a degree in case anyone eventually checks. He was supposed to be working but was drinking heavily and ignoring work calls. He told me it was his busy season and he got an Airbnb to work hard for the next 3 days, but seemed unconvinced if he could actually work hard for 3 days straight. Seemed like a really irresponsible guy. I wonder how long he’s employed with his employer or if he has to hop job-to-job on a yearly or bi-yearly basis. He also was asking about everything regarding the game and then was stating that one Italian player looked like a USA player, which was not true and annoyed the Italians watching the game. He was just a bit obnoxious. I really wanted to tell him to stop talking and embarrassing himself. Sevilla won the game on penalty kicks to the Italians dismay. It was a mum atmosphere going to bed.

[vickikowalewski]

Day 8 - May 30, 2023: Lake Como

Well the guy who is sleeping above me woke me up twice last night. Currently, I am the only female with all males in my dorm. I’m less than thrilled. They look like 20 year olds finishing up studying abroad and they act the 20 year olds. The bathroom was trashed when I got back today. I really want to say something to the guy sleeping above me but I’ll try to refrain.

I purchased a ticket to visit the Villa del Balbianello gardens. I was too late booking to do the mansion tour and today was then only day I could even book the garden tour. So today was the day. Bus C10 left from a different terminal but I made it to where I needed to go. I’m glad I left early because apparently there was an accident that caused my 45 minute trip to be 90 minutes. The gardens were insanely gorgeous. I understand why it was selling out.

Afterwards, I had an all day pass for the bus C10 so I decided to see Menaggio. The western side is much quieter and less touristy. Menaggio was beautiful but nothing like Bellagio or Varenna, it was much smaller too with less to do. I ended up looking at a few Churches and had some lunch by the lake.

On my way back down, I had some time so I stopped at Villa Carlotta. Holy cow, this place is probably my favorite spot in Lake Como. It was gorgeous and had a wide variety of botanicals from flowers, to olive trees, to vines, to bamboos, etc. Every section was like jumping into a new world. The mansion in the middle was very impressive too. It’s situated in the town of Tremezzina, which is small but quaint. The Western side of the lake seems much calmer and quieter. I very much prefer it to Bellagio or Varenna.

I wanted to catch the 5pm bus so the last 5-10min I scurried at the end to make sure I caught the bus. There’s only 2 buses left after that one for the night and I was afraid of being stranded like what I saw happening to people yesterday. I got a seat but it got extremely full. Lots of tourists at the smaller cities along the Western Cost getting on and off for accommodations and dinner. This bus driver was driving so crazy and way too fast. It actually made me a bit sick. But I made it in one piece.

I ended the evening with a beer at my hostel. I received a complimentary beer that I hadn’t used yet. I decided to use it to kill time before my dinner reservation at 7pm. Dinner was in a botanical restaurant attached to a flower shop. You actually had to go into the flower shop to use the restroom, which also strangely enough has the kitchen in it. The gnocchi with a Sardinian white wine was recommended to me. It was amazing. I met a couple from NYC and chatted with them for a while too. Overall, good night!

[vickikowalewski]

Day 7 - May 29, 2023: Lake Como

I take back my comments about this hostel being a party place. Surprisingly, I’ve seen quite a few families and people my age. The earplugs and eye mask worked like a charm too. I slept through everything.

Well jeez, today was a good but overall confusing day. I’ve now come to learn everything at Lake Como is pure chaos. There’s 3 bus stations and 2 train stations. The ferries, forget about it. Everyone is trying to get the hydroplane fast ferry. There’s only a a few daily and you can’t even book a round-trip ticket. Apparently, it also fills up quickly and can even be overbooked. You cannot reserve it in advance. You must stand in line in the morning you want to catch the fast ferry and hope you can get it. This may involve standing in line for an hour with no such luck, you get the slow ferry 3 hours later (as I heard happened to some people). I decided to go with the buses based on the recommendation from the hostel. But the buses are no less confusing. Bus C30 is supposed to leave from one station but there was a landslide that blocked a road over the past month, so now it’s leaving from another station. Mind you, there’s no signage anywhere about this. You just have to ask around with the locals who speak English and know to go to a different bus station a 20 minute walk away and stand in the line that looks wrong.

As you can tell, I was very turned around and missed the 9am bus so I had to wait for the 10am bus instead to Bellagio. I met a nice digital nomad couple living in Portugal on the bus that I finally got on. They were quite enjoyable to pass the hour with.

I forgot to mention the morning was hellish pure cold rain and 60 degrees. I ended up having to rework my outfit because I would have been freezing in a pair of shorts. Thankfully, luck was on my side. No rain the rest of the day with sun and warmth. Only downside was I didn’t prepare for that much sun.

Well, although the transportation is awful… Lake Como lives up to the hype. It is unbelievably gorgeous. I spent the late morning and early afternoon walking around Bellagio and visiting the Melzi Gardens. Absolutely stunning.

I then decided to catch a ferry to Varrena. That process was also a hot mess. The man at the ticket station was quite rude. There’s also a boat ticket and a ferry ticket. The boat is for pedestrians only and the ferry is for cars and people. Both stations are different in Bellagio so you have to pay attention and the preference should be the boat. Well I came to learn trying to catch the boat, the rules can change on a dime. Don’t even bother with the schedule. My boat direct to Varenna turned into Menaggio and then Varenna. My boat back to Bellagio to catch the bus pushed me into the ferry to Bellagio and the other ferry randomly turned into Menaggio and Como. The lines fill very quickly too and people get left off the boat, and this is the “off season.” I can’t even begin to imagine what happens during the on-season.

It was almost 3pm when I arrived at Varenna and I was quite hungry. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize there’s a siesta hour after 3pm in this region of Italy. One of the only places without a massive line was quite expensive, although the view of the water was quite stunning. I got an Aperol spritz and a Caesar salad. Both were excellent.

By the time I was done, I noticed I was getting sunburn and my phone was dying, but I forgot my iPhone power cord for my power bank. I managed to get some spray on sunscreen SPF and the pharmacist hinted that an iPhone charger was for sale at a tobacco shop. With some mild difficulty because European English isn’t exactly 100% correct, I eventually found it and bought an iPhone power cord for 8 euro.

I started my day late so I didn’t get to see everything in Varenna that I wanted, but I did manage to see Villa Monastero, which was also quite beautiful.

The bus back to Como was chaotic, a bottle of champagne was popped, and a young girl got motion sickness and projectile vomited all over another person’s back shoulder which stunk up the whole bus. Thank goodness there were windows. The smell was rancid. I got a seat but a lot of people got left behind for the next bus in an hour. Apparently, the high speed ferry overbooked so a lot more people than normal were left stranded. We were literally driving past people at other stops because the bus was full.

I ended my night with a late dinner at 9pm in Como. It was absolutely delicious. Pasta with little neck clams and tiramisu. Mind you, this meal was cheaper than my snack in Varenna. I’m off to bed. Goodnight!