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Widanastri Nawastika, Pattern Making Journal - FD2A2, Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts
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Answer #2
What is the different between Roll Collar and Shirt Collar? Roll Collar, the stand collar and the collar itself are combined together; sew roll collar to neckline. Shirt Collar, has 2 measurement (collar stand and shirt collar); need 2 times to sew: shirt collar -> collar stand -> neckline.
What is roll line? Roll line is a line, when you fold it, it will folded on the roll line.
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Photo
Left photo:
Top part: Roll Collar with:
Collar edge
Roll line
Neckline edge
Left side: if you slash and spread too much, it will become a frilled collar.
Bottom left: another design for Roll collar.
Middle bottom: marking for your slash and spread.
Bottom right: Spreading the collar ->frilled collar.
Right photo:
Show you how to make a Semi roll collar or Eton with different neckline measurement.
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Sailor collar (step by step):
Trace the front and back torso block just like the Peter Pan collar but without overlapping.
Decide your back length for this collar, then measure it on CB and draw straight line to side. From here make another straight line to CF, and become a sharp edge.
DO NOT MAKE THE COLLAR GO OVER THE ARM HOLE LINE
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Peter Pan collar (step by step):
Trace the front torso block and back torso block where the shoulder seams are connected. don't forget to pivot the dart. give mark to the connected edge between front and back. then, blend the neckline.
Now, we need to decide the collar width (start from 5 cm and more, but don't go over the arm hole), in this demonstration Mr. CHL use 5 cm, raise front and back. Make another curved connected CB and CF.
On the CF give a nice curve as shown in the middle photos; because of the too rounded curved we need to fold a little bit, but the neckline measurement remain the same. VOILA!
The other way to make Peter Pan collar:
when connected the shoulder over lap 1 - 5 cm, in this demonstration Mr. CHL use 2.5 cm. Then, you can do the exactly the same steps : 2 and 3.
The bottom right picture show the different between overlapped and non-overlapped shoulder seam.
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Photo
What is semi roll collar or eton?
Eton is a shorter version of roll collar.
There are two ways to make a semi roll collar:
Using the same roll collar, trace it onto another piece of paper; divide into 4 parts, slash and spread 0.5 - 1 cm each. if we spread more then 1 cm, it will become a frilled collar.
Draw L-shape and same measurement with neckline, raise 2 cm from the CB; then, draw curve to the CF and from 2 cm CB raise 2 cm for roll line and 3 cm for the width of the semi roll. give 90 degrees at CF and draw another curve (see right photo).
The bottom picture show the different between Roll collar and Semi roll collar.
Roll collar change by the fullness or rounder or flatter of the collar. Semi roll : the roll collar stand more also curve less.
The straighter roll line = higher stand
The rounder roll line = shorter stand
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Photo
Roll Collar (step by step):
Every time you want to draft a collar always start from L-shape, then from CB to CF same measurement from here. [from here i know, if the neckline measurement change -> measurement for collar also change.]
From the CF raise 1.25 cm and draw a curve to the shoulder mark. Then, at the CF give a 90 degrees and go straight up.
Now you can decide the collar width. Give a mark 4 cm at the CB and raise 5 cm from the 4 cm mark. From 4 cm mark draw a shadow line to the 90 degrees corner. [at this point i know a new line, called roll line which is the folded part of this collar. when you fold it,it will become the stand collar but one piece with the collar itself.]
From 5 cm mark we can draw a straight line until the shoulder, then you can design the appearance of this roll collar. DONE!
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Photo
First, we need to trace the front torso block and back torso block.
The first thing we need to before drafting a neckline give away 0.5 cm (minimum measurement) to make it looser.
Truing the front and back on the shoulder. Then, measure neckline and write down the measurement.
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Roll Collar and Flat Collar
On 22th January 2013 we learnt how to make Roll Collar :
Roll collar
Semi roll (Eton)
We also learnt how to make Flat Collar :
Peter Pan collar
Sailor collar
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Reflection week 2
After i learnt how to make different type of Stand collar,i understand that we need to do a curved line from shoulder to CF, because our neck is round shape and not flat.
I also learnt that collar stand and shirt collar their length measurement is the same, because they will sew together.
I learnt how to make a unique design by changing the front part of the shirt collar, by expanding the measurement or any other shape.
I now know that make a bow collar or tie collar is very easy, basically it's a rectangle shape.
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Answer #1
Why collar stand can't go through the 90 degrees mark? Because we're going to sew it with the shirt collar, which the curve part is in the same measurement.
What is the different between Collar stand and Stand collar? Collar stand is attached to a Shirt collar, which make the two-piece shirt collar. Stand collar is a collar that standing stiff.
Why Shirt collar is wider than Collar stand? Because when we fold the Shirt collar, we won't see the collar stand.
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Stand Collar
On 15th January 2013 we learnt how to make Stand Collar :
Stand Collar
Mandarin collar
Tie Collar or Bow Collar
Two-piece shirt collar
Every lesson need to bring Torso Block.
A collar is differentiated from other necklines, by being made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment. -cr:wiki
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Photo
After the demonstration, we tried to do all the three kind of Stand Collar.
The top photo, all the stand collar; from top: two-piece shirt collar, stand collar, and mandarin collar.
Closer look of (top-bottom) stand collar and mandarin collar.
Closer look of two-piece shirt collar.
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