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The Letter J

The Letter J is an independently owned mens apparel, retail store.  I love supporting independently owned businesses rather than chains so making a trip to Letter J was right up mu alley.  Jason, the founder of Letter J, has created his business model on the concept of apparel for men that can be dressed up or down.  The first thing that will catch your eye when walking in is how well manicured the store is, the display units the visuals, over design and aesthetics.  There is much to look at in this small retail space so you will have to take your time, but Jason and Fletcher are there to guide you through the merchandise and suggest anything that may seem appropriate for you.  

I have always taken a personal liking to people who start their own businesses.  My parents opened their first store front when i was a month old.  Since then i have watched them grow that one business into three store fronts and a lot of responsibility to follow.  I have so much respect for those who take all of the burden and responsibility, and of course reward.  Most people from the outside, only look at the benefits of a business.  Make your own hours, your in charge, you may make more money, etc.  But what many dont realize or forget is that when the business is fresh and that could be for the first 5-6 years, you may work 16 hours a day, everyday and have no choice.  you may not be able to pay yourself much for the first few years, barely getting by to manage to pay employees and bills until you eventually become profitable.  My parents business was not always smooth sailing, it took close to fifteen years to really groom it and make it what is in now.  looking at what Letter J has done with his retail space and the merchandise that he has to offer, it is clear that he has a unique and successful business.  

Something that really caught my attention when we were listening to jason and Fletcher speak was when both of them stated that they do everything, including cleaning the toilet and organizing the stock room, the less exciting tasks.  That really hit home with me because my first job was working for my parents business.  I would be dropped off from school at the store and spend close to 7 days a week at the store, when i was 8 or 9 years old i started stocking shelves and cleaning the store to help out, my parents paid me $7.50 an hour.  i was ecstatic!  As i got older i ran the cash register and listened to my mother help clients, I started learning from listening and watching her and soon i followed suit and was personally helping customers.  My dad was sure to teach me at a young age that “no job is better than me”, and that when you are in charge and the “boss” you should never ask someone to do something that you havent already or wont do yourself.  I use to clean toilets, and clean out grease traps every single day.  Not very fun jobs, and certainly not a sexy task but i never minded all that much, because i was never to good for that job. That is where the base of my work ethic came from.  I think there is something to be said about small independently owned businesses and the lessons they teach. Jason and Fletcher are experiences it everyday and I am so glad that I got to experience it as well.  

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Giovanni Stasi

Prior to this appointment i believe that i had a misconception of thriving businesses in New York City and what it took to run a successful business.  We for the large part had been visiting more established companies with decades of experience under their belt and a laundry list of clients that they serve and are in constant communication with. Giovanni on the other hand has been in business and doing very well for years but not for the extent of time that other companies have been.   Our speaker mentioned that they have 30 clients in total.  To me that was surprising, at first 30 clients did not seem like a large amount of companies.  As we continued with our visit and listening to the speaker talk about how Giovanni is run and how they establish themselves with designers and fashion companies was fascinating.  Giovanni is still growing but has become a very successful company and a company that designers confidently turn to when they need the job done right.  Giovanni offers an abundance of fabrics styles and types, unique finishes that many of us didnt even realize exists.  Things like finishes for a handbag that are made of rock, wood, ways of achieving metallic and fabrics that give a different look in the sun rather than in artificial light.  The leathers were endless, the different types of leathers, soft, hard, dry, oily, thin , thick, it went on and on with any color and texture that you could imagine.  As our speaker spoke about the different leathers and what their clientele typically wants it was amazing to look at the beginnings of wear our handbags and shoes come from.  The sketches to the prototypes that are perfectly drawn to scale, including every nut and bolt and how it interlocks with the next piece of hardware.   Moving onto handles of the bags and hardware accents for the handbags such as studs and grommets.  The dozens of styles of chains and different finishes and weights of each chain, the different styles of buttons and the purposes that they serve, the book of studs and hardware design for the handbags was endless.  

After we talked about hardware, chains, clasps, studs and so on we moved to the rack of feathers they had to offer.  Using most of the feathers as accent pieces to handbagas and shoes.  The most common type of feather used for shrugs and lightweight jackets is ostrich and sure enough was one of the main components to Giovanni’s collection of feather outerwear.  

I really enjoyed this visit and what this company has to offer.  established and working with many high end designers Giovanni also offers workshops for students or those that are interested in working with the company and learning the craft of what it takes to make a handbag or shoe from scratch.  The process of each job and skill from start to finish.  

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Marie Claire

Visiting Marie Claire headquarters was by far my favorite visit thus far. I have been following various magazines for years now, every month when they land in my mailbox i spend hours ready and ripping out pages in magazines like Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle, Harpers Bazzar, etc. Anne Fulenwider, the editor and chief on Marie Claire was a student at Harvard and majored in English Literature.  As she quickly navigated her way through the magazine industry and eventually landing her the well deserved editor and chief position at Marie Claire. Anne Fulenwider states one of my all time favorite quotes, “You have to be willing to sweep the floors and still pay attention.”  I love this quote, speaking to Anne’s dogged work ethic and the early days in her career when sweeping the floor and paying attention to her surroundings and one of the reasons why she has accomplished so many things.  Marie Claire as a magazine, tries to really focus on the empowered woman.  Picking independent and groundbreaking woman in the industry to present them and use for campaigns or front page.  The latest edition being Mila Kunis.  Marie Claire is kind of that friend in the group thats a true “girls, girl.”  

While in the meeting with Marie Claire staff and some of their management team, I loved listening to their daily routine, how they eventually found themselves in this position and where they see themselves eventually going.  Working in a magazine is something i have always been drawn to and now after currently working for a magazine on the editorial side of things, I am even more fascinated and in love with this little niche of the industry.  Many of the girls mentioned how they fell in to these roles out of surprise, never thinking they would be in sales or in the business side of the magazine but yet loving the experience and wanting to continue to grow.  The consensus was to continue to take every opportunity in front of you and be open to different positions where you may be needed.  Alice one of the team members who now works closely as one of their more technical graphic designers for layouts for advertisements with companies or fold outs from the magazine.  Alice explained how she actually originally started with Marie Claire on the editorial side of things and eventually moved her way to this area and truly enjoys it.  This industry has so much to offer and even within one magazine they’re so many fields of interest to be tapped into.  Im looking forward to also finding my way with the magazine industry. 

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Personal NYC Exploration

Today i explored Soho on my own. I visit soho often due to my job and obsessive need to shop!  When i first moved to New York City about three years ago, Soho was the first place i ever visited, a friend took me to a couple of her favorite restaurants and of course the shopping was unforgettable.  I think what i love most about Soho is the vibe i get when just walking down the street.  It is somewhat of a touristy area, for the simple fact that this part of manhattan is known for its designer shopping and great restaurants just a block away. As soon as you enter soho you will notice that the buildings and aesthetics change a little.  All of the architecture looks very similar and the windows and doors of all shopping retailers look alike as well.  i personally love this touch to Soho, the look of the buildings and street is certainly older and has a bit more charm to it.  In some areas of Soho the streets can actually seem quite quaint, between the cobble stone streets and much less traffic, you can have yourself a cute little walk down the street and window shop!  Right about Greene st and Prince is a very cute area.  Not a ton of people, streets are less congested, the road is much narrower than the other roads your use to, and the cobble stone is a nice touch to the already older style buildings that hold New Yorks most coveted designers.  Sometimes Soho is the place i go when i just want to take a walk, a week day around 1 or 2pm is a great time to go window shopping and make a list of all the things you want in life! 

The name SOHO actually came from the reference of being “South of Houston  street”.  The typical crowd that gathers in soho is not always consistent.  Due to its tourist attraction but still a regular spot for true New Yorkers, you tend to get every demographic.  Most of the time i see young girls shopping in groups, many couples between the ages of 25-50 and many woman by themselves for the day.  The shops tend to be lumped into categories together.  The main stretch on Broadway is shops like Forever21, Zara, H&M, (recently Bershka), Lacoste, Aldo, Steve madden, etc.  As you venture off onto the side streets where things get a little quiter you can find more designer stores such as Alexander wang, prada, theory, marissa web, gucci, moschino, etc.  These stores always amaze me with their interior.  The designer stores in soho are nothing short of amazing.  Between their excess amount of space inside, to the almost art museum feel they have to them, it is quite the experience to walk into one of these designer spaces.  The prada location in particular is amazing! 

Many of the same trends continue to pop up for both designer stores and the Zaras of the world, belt bags, cabby hats, and a flare to the outfit that feels a bit paris.  

Zara  has an aesthetic that tends to be clean and modern inside the store, they let the manikins and the front windows do the talking for style and vibe.  The visual merchandising is always categorized into sections for the overal style of that collection, similar to a forever21. The costumer is primarily a woman or male from the age of 15-35.  

Restoration hardware has an ultra modern, chic, simplistic look to its store utilizing all of the home decor and furniture they sell. the merchandising is absolutely impeccable with their mock room set ups, very clean feel to the store.  The customer is typically 35-60 

Theory has a very small and personal vibe to their store, I love shopping here for this very reason.  very simple indoor aesthetics similar to zara, they let the clothes do the talking. The merchandising is simple with few manikins.  The customer is typically 30-55

Steve madden has a store that is jam packed with products and things to catch your eye in every direction.  When you walk in the store has a dark interior with a edgier vibe.  The merchandising is simple shoes in categories placed on shelves or on center table.  All boots together, sneakers together, thigh highs and loafers all placed in the same area.  The customer here is about 16-35 

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WGSN

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American Eagle

When researching American Eagle and visiting their website I read about their supply chain and how they work with factories for their code of conduct.  American has set in place strict rules and regulations for managing a healthy work environment and safety in all factories that they are associated with and or own themselves.  When American Eagle starts a business relationship with any partner or factory they have taken a strong stance on transparency.  Requesting that during their partnership, every issue in the supply chain is expressed to them and never brushed under the rug.  American Eagle believes that this helps to ensure that they are staying true to themselves and maintaining a safe and healthy business.  

I loved listening to the speakers, their thoughts and experiences with American Eagle were undoubtably positive.  I always had this notion that corporate american was not for me and that the environment was not necessarily and area that i would thrive in.  I am so glad that I got the chance to view their place of work and take a more personal look into what corporate america can be.   When the speakers started to touch base and talk about the difference between culture and corporate that really hit home with me.  Being able to understand what their job entails, what environment they work in, the co workers they have, their relationship with their co workers and last but not least, their relationship with the president of the company.  I’ve learned that everything trickles downward, it starts from the top.  When the president or the “top” sets a specific standard or attitude, the rest will fall into place.  And it truly looks like that is what American Eagle believes as well. 

The article is very honest, much like the new American Eagle with their marketing and celebrities advertising for the brand.  This article talks about one thing that seems to be the most important reason why American Eagle is doing so well today, “They knew they were doing something wrong”.  The fact that American Eagle could admit that, and take the first step towards success again with a new plan and goal in place.  In 2014 they focussed mainly on the quality of their product, the material, the wear, the look of their new pieces.  After they felt they had this area under control they started to look at the retail market in general and started making changes within their corporation based on what they saw in the market.  Understanding their new teenager, “the millennial” was a huge success for them, they nailed it on the head.  Using a campaign that was black and white, and major millennial influencers to start a message and be “real” with their clothing and company.  Just like any major turn around it took a few years to see this major chain and have it reflect in their sales, but reflect it did.  American Eagle states that they have had a sales growth for the last 8 consecutive quarters.  Clearly what American Eagle is doing is working, its amazing what just recognizing that there is a problem can do. 

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World Textile Sourcing

World textile Sourcing is a company that handles the production of mostly t-shirts and knit wear.  Six out of the ten t-shirts you pick up and look at in a marshals or tjmaxx will most likley be from World Textile Sourcing.  The company just like any great success story, started with virtually no clientele and had to build their legacy from scratch.  Now they are dominating the market and work with some of the biggest retail names such as Barneys and Rag n Bone.  World Textile uses mostly fibers that are derived from Peru.  As Alexis talked in detail about the different types of fibers and their quality compared to other fibers it was clear that World Textile uses the highest quality fibers they can get their hands on and still keep the product at a manageable price point for some of their clients. Alexis talked about how she negotiates with her clients, if they need a certain fiber that may be more expensive and a higher quality fiber, she can only bring the price down considerably if this client orders a large quantity of units, otherwise it becomes increasingly difficult to keep the client happy. 

After listening to Alexis talk and explain her background in her career and her overall journey to get to this point, It seems as though the individuals who have at least dabbled in many different aspects of the industry tend to go very far.  Alexis has an extensive background in the fashion industry and truly has “done it all”, the role that she has now with World Textile Sourcing was probably landed by the vast experience she shows on her resume.  I loved listening to Alexis discuss the different types of fibers and how she was quickly able to simply close her eyes and feel each garment and know which garment needed more of a certain type of fiber.  All of these things added up to make Alexis invaluable to her position. 

As Alexis talked about her education with Kent State University and her opinion on how it helped her career, I agreed with everything she had to say.  I am currently a junior at Kent State, and while I think that this is a wonderful university and it offers a great education, most of the truly valuable information i have learned has come directly from my internships.  I made sure to take part in many internships and not just one for college credit, I have done 5 internships all together and every internship was in a completely different part of the industry.  From retail to PR, styling for a magazine, social media, and buying.  What i have learned from simply doing, and just being in the industry will serve me well later in my career.  I loved her point of view on it.  

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Create a Marker NYC

Create a Marker NYC is a company run by Paul Cavazza in the heart of the fashion industry, the garment district.  Paul started his company many years ago, after growing up in the industry and practically working for his family in a marking and grading company as well, there was no better person to take on the industry himself than Paul.  What separated him from the rest was when the turn of the century happened, when everything turned to technology.  Many business that were stuck in their old fashioned ways were reluctant to conform but Paul knew that it was necessary to turn to technology to stay relevant and to produce product more efficiently.  Thats exactly what he did.  But do not mistake, Paul doesn't always rely 100% on technology and machines only, as he states in an interview with the HuffPost, “I still believe in the human touch”.  Needless to say, even Paul still loves the old fashion way of grading and marking.  Paul has quickly grown his business to be one of the largest and most sought after grading and marking companies in the country, despite the many hardships of the industry changing and ups and downs in the economy as well.  

As Paul was walking us through the factory and explaining the process from start to finish of grading and marking a specific garment, it was clear to me that his job took a very specific person to acquire such skills and to be so undeniably good at those skills.   The attention to detail that he and his employees have put into each size run of each garment is amazing.  Yes using many of the machines that they have is extremely helpful and much faster, Paul still has his personal touch on every garment.  Paul went on to explain how things can get tricky when you are grading a garment with a pattern, how that pattern has to line up perfectly from size to size and still not waste an abundance of fabric in achieving this.  This is what makes Paul so good. On the computer screens was the pieces of each garment laid out in a puzzle, trying to make each piece fit in the most efficient and cost effective way. 

The difference between marking and grading?

Marking is setting your fabric on a table and marking the different points of the piece that are essential. Such as, the pockets, the seams, buttons, where a dart will be and so on.  This allows you to visually see the garment on the table with all the intricate parts on it. 

Grading, is when a garment is graded down or up in the size scale.  Meaning you start with a size 6 sample of a garment and now you need to grade that garment to sizes 0-16. 

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Aerin

Last week I visited one of the most beautiful company headquarters I have ever seen, and probably ever will see.  Aerin.  The office was filled with warm floral scents, picturesque views of madison ave, walls painted in the most perfect milky, egg shell color, and subtle touches of color through sofas and throw pillows.  Aerin, is a luxury home decor company sold in varies high end department stores.  Aerin pulls her inspiration from her lifestyle, with her constant traveling and experiencing different luxurious parts of the world.  When something catches her attention, wether is be a plant or a material its most likely that this specific piece of inspiration will some how end up in a new upcoming collection for the new season. Every collection no matter the difference in theme or inspiration, will always be classic and elegant with a twist of modern.  

When speaking with some of the higher up employees of Aerin headquarters and listening to their experience with the company, they seemed relaxed and at ease with where they are in the company, their role, and where they will eventually end up.  When working in headquarters, many companies can seem overwhelming and demanding, while Aerin still has deadlines and specific number that need to be met, each employee seemed relaxed with this idea.  I learned quickly that the timeline for production is a little drawn out with home decor compared to fast fashion per say.  Aerin employees say that their timeline is typically 11 months start to finish for a new collection, while fast fashion like H&M can be 3-4 months. 

While i don’t think that i will be in the homedecor industry for a career, I did really enjoy speaking with everyone and learning about the company and industry in depth. 

Between both employees that we spoke to, they both had similar stories in terms of their background.  They were both caught in situations where they weren't exactly on the career path that they wanted to be on at one point or another, but eventually things fell in place.  When you are in your early twenties and still figuring things out, at times you can wonder if the direction your going is something you want to do forever or what is the “end goal”.  You may have to take a windy road to get there but eventually, you will get there. 

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The NYC Garment District Adventure

Before the tour of the garment district i always viewed the area as small privately owned garment houses, small coffee shops and not a ton of chain businesses for shopping or restaurants.  From the first week of walking to and from classes in the garment district, I only saw but a few streets with the same view for the most part, fabrics, and more fabrics.  

After taking the tour through the garment district, just from walking a couple streets over, I was able to see beautiful landmarks that are historic to New York City.  In all honesty, prior to the tour I hadn’t yet saw the beauty in the garment district, after the tour I was able to see some extremely aesthetically pleasing sites.  The Lennox library being one of the most beautiful buildings in New York City, just a couple blocks away from our studio.  Lord and Taylor being one of the most iconic department stores with nothing short of 10 floors and aisle after aisle of the newest trends.  

Something that i don’t think i would have ever noticed or been aware of without this tour was the button with 5 holes in it.  The button is of course in representation of the garment district and the sewing and production of fashion, the five holes in the button is to form the letter “F” in the middle of the button.  Such an interesting little thing to know. 

The “Mood” fabric store we went to was absolutely amazing. I had prior visited this store because of it famously being on Project Runway, but i could visit a hundred times over again.  The variety of different fabrics, colors, finishes, embroidery, buttons, furs that were available in one space is enough to get anyones creative juices flowing. 

The Lord and Taylor location in the garment district is nothing short of amazing, I had never visited this particular location so that was a great surprise for it to be on the tour.  Walking through the aisles of the department store, you could get lost in the concept of shopping for the entire day if you wanted. Definitely memorable