#foxtailcider

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Road Cider: You Can Feel Good, Good About Hood (River Cider)

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

Two weeks ago at the end of September I hit the road for Hood River, Oregon.  In addition to some great breweries, the ‘Wind Surfing Capital of the World” also has something cider fans can appreciate: nearby Hood River Valley annually produces nearly 3,700 tons of Newtown Pippins.

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

The Newtown, also known as the Abermarle Pippin, is an American original.  Its origins date back to colonial times, and its heirloom quality makes for some fine ciders (think Reverend Nat’s Revelation Newtown Pippin (Amen!) or Original Sin’s Newtown Pippin Single Heirloom Varietal (Wicked good)).

Naturally I couldn’t resist picking some up for my own for an attempt at a Newtown Pippin single varietal cider to be made later.  But I digress…

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

The Hood River Valley is home to Fox Tail Cider, a relatively new cidery established by Bob Fox and Justin Cardwell (the head Cider Maker). While Fox Tail opened in 2013, the roots of its orchards go back to the late 1800s when German immigrant August Paasch originally planted apple trees for export back to Europe (and apparently made his own hard cider to the delight of locals).

Image copyright: Fox Tail Cider 

The cidery is located along the Valley’s Fruit Loop, next to Smiley’s Red Barn (where one can score the aforementioned Pippins), and there are up to 10 ciders to taste in Fox Tail’s taproom. But since I had a hike up to Angel’s Rest Trail planned afterwards, I decided to stick to five.

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

The Ginger Haven was the first up, and my favorite (but then, what redhead wouldn’t like a cider named ‘Ginger Haven’?) It clocked in at a 6.2% ABV, and had a very nice ginger bite, nice blonde color, a balanced dryness, and floral notes that were peachy (literally). I liked it enough to fill a growler with this seasonal offering, which sadly, like summer, is gone for now. My Untapped Rating: 3.5

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

Sir Issac, one of Fox Tail’s flagship ciders, was next. It’s a pleasing gold color with a green apple tartness that lingers like a late summer afternoon. Like Ginger Haven, it’s got a 6.2% ABV rate. My tasting notes have it rated decent, as in, ‘it won’t knock your socks off,’ but it’s definitely quaffable.  My Untapped Rating: 3.0

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

I got quite stuck --in a good way--on Brierberry for the third sample. This semi-dry cider has a 6.3% ABV and leaves you with no doubt that tart, jammy ciders done well can be just what the doctor ordered for summer afternoons. Brierberry has a great rose blush color that’s balanced with apple blossom notes. It was my second favorite, and one I would bring to a summer cookout for cider novitiates. My Untapped Rating: 3.25

 Docklands was next. At 6.9% ABV, it was kicking up the kick a notch. Fox Tail calls Docklands an ‘Irish style cider, and double-ferments it. The result is a respectable drink that to me had definite grassy notes and a farmhouse, scrumpy-style flavor. My only (mild) complaint about Docklands is that, unlike Ginger Haven and Brierberry, it had an abrupt finish. Kind of like my command of the lyrics to “Danny Boy.” My Untapped Rating: 3.0

Image Credit: Sean Connolly

I wrapped up my tasting with the IHC, or Imperial Hopped Cider. Like Docklands it’s 6.9% ABV. A dash of hop flavor and aroma was easy to get in every sip, but IHC left me wanting more apple notes and finish for balance. I think with a little more apple, over time, IHC could muscle into the list of must-taste dry-hopped ciders. My Untapped Rating: 3.0

The take-away: I like Fox Tail’s eclecticism and the fact that they’ve established what I hope will be one of several flagship Gorge cidery destinations. Fox Tail embodies the New American Cider Movement (you heard that catch-phrase here first, folks) that honors old world taste while showcasing American innovation by as pairing apple blends and single varietals with interesting fruits and veggies (think boysenberries, raspberries, plums, rhubarb).  I still haven’t tried their full lineup, and based on Justin Cardwell’s constantly changing array of seasonals, more trips to the tasting room might be in order. Taproom host Paige Munyan is friendly and helpful, too; don’t be afraid to ask questions. And the Taproom has seating both inside and out, for those Oregon days when sitting surrounded by orchards seems just the thing. 

Image Credit: Outside Patio of Fox Tail (lysmekah, Aug 2014)

 I’m looking forward to seeing their ciders further evolve in complexity and become more widely available (for the moment outside the taproom they’re mainly available in Western Washington and Central/North Central Oregon).

But until then, Fox Tail is a great excuse to take a road trip and visit Hood River. As if you needed one anyway, right?

Image Credit: Sean Connolly