365sessions

[365sessions]

October 25th 2020

Makaha 4 to 5 feet w/ Radin

Went to Makaha with Radin today. Was a good sesh. We first checked out Tracks but the water was really really brown. Kept going and Makaha was clean. Waves had some good size. The AC guy was working today so I couldn’t grab my board I borrowed Radin’s fish and Kana’s shortboard after a while. Caught some good size waves I really like Makaha good vibes people riding waves on all kinds of crafts from the OG longboarders one guy with a red and yellow board in particular was amazing. To young shortboarders, spongers, body surfers and people with inflatables they had it all out there.

More power to the wave but it always feels safe well the right feels safe. The left goes over some shallow reef. I caught a good Amount of waves. Lots of rights. I wish I had my board cause I was just feeling around on the borrowed board. It’s a fun break. Had a left that felt like I was tube riding but I wasn’t. That feeling was sick. That was on Radin’s shortboard about a 5’10 x 19.5 x 2.5 a lot smaller than anything I’ve ridden before, guess I can ride a short board now.

Not was nice being in some good size overhead waves having that power if I had my board I could have been really carving it up.

[365sessions]

October 1st 2020, Marineland

Mellow day today. The swell over the past week has died down. Took out the longboard with Jon today. It was small but cleaner than yesterday. A couple interesting things that made me feel good happened. The first is a guy who was teaching a couple of his friends how to surf on the inside asked me if I used to ride a soft top. It was a kind of acknowledgement of my progress. That felt nice sometimes when people make a comment in the water or give you a look it’s a kind of compliment.

Second thing is I was paddling back out and caught one of the older guys trying my gentleman’s stance. I was like wow he’s copying me. Super interesting to see and that shit looks swaggy af.

The sunset was beautiful as always.

[365sessions]

September 30th,

Aloha,

Today was an interesting day surfing I took the longboard out. The White Flower, longboarding gives a different feel for me. It’s funny because Jon and I have been having this great debate on long boarding vs what I do he keeps thinking I’m some kind of jock it’s funny but not what I’m trying to get at. I sent him some videos of Rastovich today that captured better what I’m going for. Anyways I was in the longboard and I pressure myself out less when I’m doing that. I’m just having fun not trying to “progress” which makes it so much more playful and less pesssure.

So today when we were paddling out it was super glassy on the inside then it got super choppy on the outside. At first I thought it was a cross wind but it seemed to be a swell coming across from the west that was making the waves all bumpy. It was really really frustrating until I got in tune. It took awhile the first hour or so I was getting my longboard footing back and getting reaqauntaied with my board and the conditions. Once I got my feet under me and my tuned into what was going on it was super fun. The chop made riding the wave super interesting cause you need to move around with how the wave was breaking. It added this new level and it was fun. Had the leash on today so shit was just all play no consequence. It was really fun trying to conform to what the wave was doing.. maybe a life lesson in there?

[365sessions]

September 21st 2020

Woke up thinking about yesterday. The Renicks guys were clowning me yesterday well I’m not totally sure but I think they were an that pisses me off. I was trying to project off the lip. Anyways that shit makes me mad. Makes me want to surf better than all of them. They say that the best surfer is the one having the most fun in the water and getting clowned isn’t fun. Even tho those guy are irrelevant fuck them man. I’m on one. They aren’t that good anyways better than me but not at some unattainable level. I want to be good.

Thinking about DJ he was a good example of the kind of surfer I aspire to be. He was fucking good man. Loved the boards and the art. I’m gonna get better but what does that mean what does that look like?

Am I already there? Fluidity and flow. Feeling the waves and water. Power and fluidity. W/ some swaggy mixed in.

Power Fluidity Swaggy

Mill have to work on it but my soul will he expresses through my surfing

[365sessions]

September 20th 2020 Rock Piles, Renicks

Two sessions today morning rockpiles, sunset at Renicks. I took out the NPJ today and connected with it this time. I was able to paddle in this time and caught some good waves. The wave at Rockpiles and in betweens was fun different a lot faster. It’s funny this guy was in good position to catch a wave and let a guy with priority take it. He ate shit in an extremely kooky way. I looked at dude and said man.. he replied adding that to my mental ledger.. I answered never again. It was a good sesh finally unlocked the potential of the new board. It’s fast and the rail just locks in. It’s a swooping kind of board. Waves were big enough to have some kick to them which was nice. Rockpiles just had all these barrels. I’ll need to to keep going there.

Renicks was pivotal. When paddling in I met a guy named DJ he commented on my board and asked it it was an morning of the earth. He said he’s starting to learn to shape and we kinda just started clicking. He taught me about my board the quartet and how it works. Trim with the rail in the face the lean back on it to make a heavy turn. I think I got it. The board and the wave was really clicking for me. That swooping action had a couple floaters which really were my first two. Hit the lip once. Got put in a barrel kinda but chewed up. DJ is a really good surfer just seeing him take off and pump at the top of the wave was pretty amazing. One he locked in and was flying down the line I was just mesmerized he bailed as he was flying towards me I was in a fucking trance watching the guy. His IG for his company was astraldaze

Here is a fall equinox/ Jon b day photo of the crew

[365sessions]

September 19th 2020 Flys

Radin wanted to hit up flys today so we went. It was a very very pretty setting. Waves were pretty mellow we could see kewalos down to beach park going off but still. It was very very beautiful. Don’t think the swell direction was hitting right but it was nice to be away from all the crowds almost just as good but you know we need some waves. The peace and beauty was almost enough. The water was really clear the sunset was beautiful with the slimmest of crescent moons above the clouds in the sunset which is weird because usually the moon is above leahi. That place had a special energy to it. I really dig the vibe. I will be back. For sure.

[365sessions]

On one of those past lawless days last week Luis came out. That man had style on the longboard. Style.

[365sessions]

September 15th 2020 Marineland

Missed Sunday, was hungover and needed to rest. Last few days I took out the longboard and the mid. Small day but a good day. It’s funny riding the different boards makes me better at the others. Like yesterday I took out the gold flower and I was able to pump and cutback so much better. Today I took out the takayama and I was able to surf top to bottom really well. It’s like in the past month or so I’ve really embraced surfing top to bottom. Also on the mid I was able to do a few cheater 5s a long board move. It’s really interesting. I was taking all the waves again. Think I need to take less I saw the salt and pepper OG intentionally giving up the good waves. Overall a solid effort. Last wave sticks out in my mind as i did a deep cutback and got around a section got back up to the top cake back down right behind a long boarder I was trying to speed around the guy and he popped out the back. I had another wave where I got around a section and SPOG had dropped in down the line and gave the wave back to me. Very good lines today good connecting top to bottom surfing, cut backs, and trimming on some pretty soft waves. The twin fins on the Takayama are a game changer makes the board more playful and my lines more fluid. Now it’s more better body positioning on the board as I do my turns so I don’t stall out or dig in a rail. Overall good effort and prolly my best day connecting different styles into one wave.

[365sessions]

September 11 2020

Hi. Today was wild another super crowded lawless day. I caught my waves tho. Ended up at renicks caught a few good ones. Oriana’s first time with the crew. Good to have a surfer better than me out tyeee for sure. We need more of that.

I want to talk a little about teaching beginners cause yesterday I had two people ask me to teach them and I’ve taught a few people. I want to be good at it if I’m gonna teach. Have people have some fun right. I learned from bodyboarding obviously so I think teaching people prone first might be a good way to do it. Teaching them the levers. The balance sweet spot. Emphasizing paddling and turning before even popping up.

I think I can be a good teacher.

[365sessions]

Post for my father

My father passed away in the 8th I think one of my unsaid goals was to surf with him...

After a few days I was able to get out into the water at Honalii. He always talked about that spot. It was a really really special session. Honalii is different it’s all these round rocks so when the waves hit the shore it’s the sound of rocks rolling around. The beginning of the session was super kooky. Just not catching waves but I found my spot infrint of the coconut tree and found my groove. I was using his orchid land board. It was a special moment for me and my dad. I surfed well. I’ll add more soon. Almost hit a turtle just like the lifeguard said. A special special sesh... thank you...

[365sessions]

September 10th 20202 straight outs

Aloha!

It’s been a while since I wrote here but I assure you I’ve been surfing everyday. Janis mentioned I no longer write here so here I am writing here haha. It was a really good surf day today two waves stand out in particular. The first was a late drop food sized wave just grabbed the rail, made the drop, a couple turns at the end. Radin and Kana saw it and commented on it. While I was on the wave it felt good. Just a nice rush into the drop. Second wave was a nice drop and I had a long wall line where I was surfing top to bottom making some really nice turns. Radin was on the wave too didn’t know while I was riding it. But that one felt good. I was pumping using the whole face of the wave. Might have done a cut back. Man it felt good. I feel like I’ve broken into a new level the last few days. Yesterday I got a new pair of fins for the takayama. Traded in the K2s on the fish for these green captain fin co. Twins. The takayama is so much more playful with those fins on. Really really fun. Then I was playing around on Radin’s fish for a bit. Taking some late drops.. it’s hard to stay out the whitewater with it but the few waves I did I nailed it. Oh I had a good right today as well when I asked the girl which way she was going and she was like “lefto” so I went right. Just an all around good day mayne. I had a random dude who looked pretty experienced compliment me and that lady who dropped in on me and messed up the HIC board asked for me to reach her friend how to surf. I was talking to Jon today after the sesh and he said I was good I was surprised he said that/ he also said I need to work on my style. Fair enough. I mean I still have to work on so many things with my surfing and get better consistentcy.

A lot to work on to close the year out. Surfing rail to rail, cutbacks, bottom turns, generating speed, nose riding. If we can keep getting swells I think I can improve on all these. The backside top turn is still the one I look up to. That sweeping motion. I have a ways to go on my journey but I’m no longer a kook. Oh I need to learn how to kick out hahaha.

[365sessions]

July 12th 2020

Morning sesh with Naomi today. checked the surf report and it said that it was wind swell at makapuu so I suggested we go baby Maks. it was flat.. we ended up going to diamondhead near where the shortboarders hang out. It was mercenary. Lawless waves coming from the deep ocean waves coming at an angle from the side and even another swell i have no idea what it was. things breaking all over the place. Shit was wild. every time I go diamondhead I always have this kind of impression when I finish.. It's a weird break. it would be interesting to go on a clean day... I maybe one day! took out the long board just all around a funky day...

[365sessions]

[365sessions]

July 10th and 11th

Been taking out the Pang as a twin plus one the past few days. Yesterday was a dawn patrol with naomi and radin. was a good time good to start the day. I'm getting the feel for the board for sure now. it takes stronger legs than a normal board. My legs buckle from time to time. something I didn't experience with my other boards.

Today was a good one again smaller sunset sesh. with the girls. again making progress on my turns and accidentally did the bouncing pump and it works. I know it isn't proper form but I felt what it does, and I speeds me up. So I know the feeling of acceleration. need to do it with proper form. But yeah it's just feeling better under my legs.

Big news today. Janis got out the water by herself! huge huge news. She's been getting better catching more waves and now getting out of the water by herself. aww she's growing up.

So. I. got a glimpse of the deeper practice of surfing. Naomi invented me to a talk that ended up being out in waianae. it was a little before sunset and unexpectedly it was at a house. we parked and went up the the back gate. we were greeted by a pit bull but a nice one and it turns out purple Manu is was the one who received the invite. when we got into the house it was like we were transported to a (k) new world. The front lawn area was transformed into a presentation place with a projector beaming onto the side of the main house. there was a traditional tattoo area in and enclosed lanai and you could see inside they were drinking Kāwā. there was this tall ulu tree in the middle of the lawn of was beautiful. it's leaves huge. they checked out temp and told us that the presentation would start when the sun goes down.

it was a potluck so I put down my ola and helped serve the food. it felt safe. so much good food. good food I was serving dimsum mostly. there was a station with buckets to rinse our dishes after.

On to the manalouge by Pūlama Collier. After and intro and oli she stated the manalouge. A sharing of an idea. this one was on women and surfing in ancient Hawaii. It was really interesting. especially how during the aikapu women were allowed to surf because surfing was stared by female demigods. It was so good. they were Moʻo. and women and they were the deities of surfing. There was a lot of koana and it was great to here hawaiian being spoken just normally. so good. It was like I was transported to a new land. She shared moʻolelo of a woman who loved to surf and could call the waves. she takes about people talking to the waves and the waves talking back. it was interesting. it was right.

There was this woman. hawaiian but light skinned with these eyes. I wonder who she was.

The next day I went to Pūlamas talk at wai wai. also fucking crazy brain changer. it was so interesting. That needs its space to be talked about as well. I knew there was a deeper level to surfing.

surfing may be my practice.

[365sessions]

July 9th 2020

Solid little session at Kewalos proper. Can't complain. really starting to get a hang of the Pang more and more. popping up is no problem. Tried angling my take off more. I tend to go. too deep into the flats on my take off. I saw a young dude popping up and triming at the point same time and it seemed to work well. Also I can see why pumping is so important in a shortboard. gonna have to practice more on the surf skate for sure.

[365sessions]

July 7th & 8th

I haven't been going as consistently as I would like lately. Work kinda crept up and took over its gonna take a conscious effort to keep surfing daily and that is my intention. I was so close to making double sessions a part of my routine untill I cut open my foot. The foot is healed and it's time to renew my commitment to surfing 365 sessions this year. The year is just about half way through. My year surf anniversary is coming up in a month or so. It's crazy to think that it's only been a year. Or less really. It was the last two swells of summer last year that we just started. Those busted up wavestorm days at publics where my leash got caught and i felt I might drown and I'm still charging. Went from the fucked up wavestorm and on my birthday I got the Takayama, that's when I really started taking surfing seriously. That's when I really started to improve. Then at the beginning of the year I made the commitment to surf 365 sessions and I really started to improve. I went from the fucked up wavestorm. To the big blue board, I was to the takayama, To the fish, to the ghost flower, and and now the pang 35 performance fish. I feel that 35 ltrs is a good size for me. The 74 fish SAS a little boat like and he I know what triming the volume feels like I'm in. with this board I can truly go anywhere on the wave is just different. responsive. I really really like it. it actually paddles into waves good too.

Today felt like a breakthrough again. It's like the Pang just clicked. Pop ups were not a problem at all. shifting my weight up and down the board started to really make sense. The ability to make turns just started to come together. It's like I got my legs under me finally. I did a backside tail grab naturally like on my T or a long board. It was good. I like seeing the groms surfing the point. it's inspiring seeing how good they are at a young age. I still want to be a good surfer. idk if I'll ever surf cloud break on a big day or pipe for that matter but I just might. and I'll definitely be one of the best in the line up at Kewalos on a normal day with flow and wave choice wired.

[365sessions]

June 26th 2020

Got back in the water after a couple days of staying out to let a cut on my foot heal. yes another one. I always get cut when helping someone else out of the water. Rarely when I'm getting out. I need to figure out why this is and stop this shit. But I stayed out the water and it healed way quicker than I thought it would which is great.

Today I took the longboard out. Janis and Kana came. Spencer came for the first time. he did a clean cutback.. into some dude but I have a feeling he's pretty good. better than me at least. radin was out there as well. Waves were decent for long boarding. I'm slowly getting better at longboarding. need to keep getting back to the power zone of the wave better but it's fine. it's a longboard. I was tripping out over kāna a bit but what else is new.

getting out while helping Janis I got cut again.. fak.