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Day 3: Palas de Rei to Melide

The days have gone by so fast. We're on Day 3 of 6 and just about half way there.

On our way out of Palas de Rei, we met a Portuguese priest who coincedentally had lived and served in the Philippines for 15 years. He gave us his blessing and his promise to return to the Philippines before we went on with our day.

With only 14KMs to trek, our path to Melide was a lot shorter. It was a much more relaxing walk with a lot of pauses for coffee, tea, and ice cream. The terrain was also fairly easy when compared with the first two days. The light walk and the small talk with people we've met the past couple of days made for an interesting walk.

We've met people from everywhere: South Africa, USA, Germany, Croatia, Peru and Belarus. All with the same goal of getting to thr next town.

We arrived in Melide around 4PM--early for our standards. As we entered the main Rúa, a man selling Pulpo Gallego calls us to his shop (A Garnacha) to try his fresh octopus. I'm not kidding when I tell you that it's the freshest pulpo I've ever had.

If pulpo that size awaited at every stop, I'd hustle too.

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Day 2: Portomarin to Palas de Rei*

We started our walk a tadbit late due to some mishap with the Correos who we’ve contracted to transport our luggage to Palas de Rei. We had roughly 26KMs to walk and any delay would mean risking walking the trail in the dark (never advisable, by the way).

Fog filled the first couple of kilometers of our walk out of Portomarin to Mount San Antonio. The trail reminded me a lot of the hike up to Mount Pulag - cold and lined with pine trees. The ascent was also gradual, steep, and painful and so was the descent. Afterwards, the trail took us to some of the major roads of Galicia, passing through a fertilizer factory that gave off one of the most disgusting smells ever. 

The trail took us back to the plains and hills passing through a number of tiny towns. At some point we had to go up another steep ascent that gave a lovely view of the province of Lugo at the peak. The technique to tackling tough elevations is put on some music. When your legs hurt like hell, it helps to sing your favourite song. 

In theory, the road to Palas de Rei is easy as it offers mostly flat lands and gave a lot of opportunities to rest. In most of the towns that you will traverse, there are albergues, cafe, and bars offering meals and refreshments. The choices are limited but everything tastes amazing when you know you have had to to walk kilometers for what might be your only meal for the day. 

But, despite the many opportunities to rest, Day 2 was much harder than Day 1 for me. At this point we have walked a little over 50KMs already - that’s more or less halfway to Santiago - and my legs were really starting to feel the burn. The last 7 minutes (seriously, 7 minutes) to our posada was torture. The bottle of Albarino at the end of the road made all of it worth it.  

*This is not a guide

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Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin*

We walked 25.6 kilometers from Sarria to Portomarin. We're only 1/5 of the road were set to walk but already my muscles ache. Along the empty plains and forrests of Spain, the thought of calling a taxi has crossed the minds of some of us. The periodic heavy rain wasn't helpful too.

But when you don't know where you are, it's pretty much futile to call a cab. I think the roads were purposely made that way to make giving up impossible.

One source of motivation for me to carry on would be the fact that we're only walking 100KMs. Some people we've met on the road have been walking since Pamplona -- others France. "Jesus didn't start in Sarria," said a lone stranger who decided to vandalize the the camino marker.

As for me, it's the lovely countryside that motivates me. How lucky are we to have been greeted by a perfect rainbow as we were just about to enter Portomarin? If take a taxi I would miss out on the lovely scenery below.

And so we walked and walked until we reached the town of Portomarín. The sight of the hillside town or village emitted a glow similar to a lighthouse at sea. We were close and the thought of arriving gave an unbelievable feeling of comfort. 

We were exhausted but even that is an understatement. I remember arriving in Portomarín hungry and tired. So hungry and tired that we found ourselves arguing about the littlest things like how to get to the hotel or where to eat. In the end, we opted for rest over a trek to the nearest restaurant that was open 500 meters away.

But day one is done, and tomorrow is another day.

*This is not a guide

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Why I Walk

After six hours on a train, we’ve finally arrived in Sarria to begin our 7-day walk to Santiago de Compostela. After years of hoping, months of planning, and weeks of preparing, I am finally on my way there.

The intention of walking to Santiago first came to my mind in 2010. It was the year I quit my entry-level job as a merchandising assistant to live abroad. I had no concrete plan. All I had was a strong desire to move to  Spain. I said to myself that if I ever do end up living in Spain, I would walk the road to Santiago as a form of gratitude for achieving something I never thought possible. 

While tomorrow I begin my 100KM walk to complete that promise, I also walk with a plan to learn.

There is a quote from Paolo Coelho that I stumbled upon a couple of days ago that says: “Look back and be grateful, look ahead and be hopeful, look around and be helpful.” The first thing I thought about was the camino. Inspired once again  by the words of the author whose book influenced this journey, I walk the road to Santiago with the intention of learning how to be grateful, hopeful, and helpful. 

May the road to Santiago teach me to be grateful for what was and what will be.  May the road teach me to be generous -  not just of material wealth but of my time - and to stop keeping score. May the road fill me with hope and teach me to trust that somehow after years of fumbling He will unveil his perfect plan.

That said, I am excited for the next couple of days. I look forward to everything  I will learn along the old road to Santiago. 

[abywashere]

“How Long Will Love You?”

As long as the stars are above you.

As long as stars are above you

And longer, if I can.

(Madrid, Spain, 2016)

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“Before the Rain”

This was taken just before the rain cloud that covered whole of Europe for an entire week had arrived. Bright and sunny and in broad daylight, Chinchon looked like a completely different world. 

(Madrid, Spain, 2016)

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“Chinchon”

Over the summer, I had the opportunity to head to the tiny town of Chinchon for a wedding. We spent two nights in town and had a fantastic time despite the rain that poured throughout the weekend. 

I was completely amazed at how picturesque it was.  The draw of the town is its circular Plaza Mayor that doubles as a bullfighting ring. What I loved about it is how It reminded me so much of old western flicks. I’m perplex at how I never bothered visiting when it’s so close to Madrid. 

See, that’s the thing about Spain. You never completely run out of places to see. Just when you thought you’ve seen it all, you end up in Chinchon.

(Chinchon, Spain, 2016)

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“Valadares”

At the antiquated train station of Valadares in Vila Nova de Gaia, waiting for my train to arrive.

We hitchhiked to the other side of the Douro that day. We’ve been told that one of the best bacalhaus in Portugal could be found in a small family restaurant in Vila Nova de Gaia. 

So we went.

(Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal, 2015)

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Life measured in Plaza Mayors.

(Segovia, Spain, 2015)

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“Niche”

Niches held statues of important figures and usually of pagan symbols. This one used to hold the statue of Neptune who was believed to be the founder of the city. Today, it holds the image of The Virgen de la Fuencisla, the Patroness of Segovia.

(Segovia, Spain, 2015)

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"Acueducto"

After 10 years, I had the chance to visit Segovia again. It was equally as enchanting and I must say, the acueducto never ceases to amaze.

(Segovia, Spain, 2015)

[abywashere]

Let’s Do This All Over Again

Hi,

Let me introduce myself.

My name is Aby. In case you’ve forgotten all about me, I used to write stories and share photos about my travels on this page.

I started this blog in 2010 just when I was about to quit my merchandising job. At the time I was unhappy and I wanted to to see the world. I was young and thought leaving work meant freedom and unlimited travel--until I realized I had no money. 

This space became my outlet. I wrote about where I wanted to go, what I wanted to do, and who I wanted to meet until I finally had the chance to do them. The odd thing about everything is when I finally did, my appetite to write also disappeared. Maybe because life got in the way too.

What I am trying to say is, I would really like to write again. I would love to do this all over again. Maybe I have better stories to tell this time and maybe my writing has improved too. My only hope is you’re still here reading, following, and reblogging (is that still a thing?).

Sincerely, 

Aby

[abywashere]

"View from Top"

Oslo's shopping district as seen from the Royal Palace.

I was once told that Oslo only gets 20 days of summer a year. It explains why everybody was out on the streets and was eager to dine al fresco. The funny thing is even on that exceptionally sunny day, I was freezing and not even a hot cup of coffee could warm me up.

(Oslo, Norway, 2015)

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"Mi Casa Es Su Casa"

The expression goes.

It reminds be a little bit of Vienna's Schönbrunn Palace, only a lot less grand. Just like any other palace, the Royal Residence is used mainly for official functions.

(Oslo, Norway, 2015)

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"Oslo From My Window"

It was my first time in Oslo. We arrived to a lot of rain. That didn't stop the city from making a wonderful impression, nonetheless.

(Oslo, Norway, 2015)

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"On Lisbon"

A little bit of Lisbon in my life (while en route to Oslo). I can't quit you.

(Lisbon, Portugal, 2015)

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"So It Goes"

This is us making sure we return because legend says so. Ri and I are lucky to be here together for a second time. Cheers to what began as a completely random plan to visit Spain five years ago.

As Anais Nin said, 'throw your dreams into space like a kite, and you do not know what it will bring back, a new life, a new friend, a new love, a new country.'

(Madrid, Spain, 2015)