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The Curious Case of De Nga

The Curious Case of De Nga

View from the ridge above Longdo Nye (Panch Pokhri) lakes

Explorations on the watershed between Lachen chu and Ringi chu, North Sikkim

Text: Anindya Mukherjee Photos: Aloke Kumar Das

It was the third week of November,2015 and Kolkata was showing no signs of cooling down. Autumn was clearly gone and winter was still hesitating to enter into our space. Being gangetic, we understand this. Winter and Bay of Bengal are eternally engaged in a ‘cold’ war. Just like us Bengalis, they do not agree with each other- ever. But I could see and sense from experience that the weather pattern in the eastern part of the Himalaya was moving towards a clearer, stable state. News of new snow on the ridges of Singalila was bringing promises. I was getting restless. Long time, no mountain! And suddenly a plan was in the air.  

As soon as the plan did surface, I met Aloke Das, my companion on Nanda Devi East  in 2013[1]. I knew, Aloke, a senior mountaineer of Bengal belonged to a very different school and was new to this style I was about to propose. Preposterous, exploratory climbing is not blitzkrieg! Perhaps that will be his remark, I thought, but secretly hoped that he would be game. I said, 8 days and that is all we got in order to crack this thing and come back. We shall have to force our way through dense forest and rhododendron thickets right from the river bed, climb steep slopes covering nearly 1000m a day while sleeping under overhang rocks. There will be fewer leeches at this time of the year but be sure to expect plenty of deer ticks. But the good thing is the threat of ticks will be for the first 2 days only and then on the 3rd day we should be able go above the tree line and get near this 5000m mountain. And finally, if we do get there and if the weather gods are kind, we will try and climb this thing. I paused and looked at him. My old pal was smiling and I knew what that meant. Reassured, I resumed.

We shall have only one day at our disposal to climb. No rest days, no bad weather allowances. Since we will be starting our hike from a very low altitude of 700m approximately we should not worry too much about acclimatization I guess. But since time is of the essence and the approach march cannot be shortened really; we get only one shot at it. By the way, did I mention that I do not know what this mountain looks like? To be a little more specific I do not even know if this is a peak or a pass? Aloke seemed lost now. Lost but not surprised. There is not a single report or images published in any journal as presumably no mountaineer or trekker has been here. But in Kekoo Naoroji’s book ‘Himalayan Vignettes’ I saw a map[2]that referred to it as De Nga (5060m). ‘De Nga’ is definitely a Bhotia sounding name and must have had its influence from the inhabitants of Lachen valley lying to its immediate east rather than the Lepcha sanctuary of Dzongu that stretches to its south. In this map, it is shown on the watershed of Ringi Chu in Upper Dzongu and Lachen Chu. If you know where Lama Anden is then perhaps it will be a bit easier to imagine. It is on the ridge serpenting down south from Lama Anden (5868m).

Map with 'De Nga' peak marked

Toyoshima’s map shows this ridge in detail, but no peak named as ‘De Nga’ is marked here. What it shows instead in the same position are two passes with identical names-Thepa la. The northerly one is of 4575m and the other of 5064m[3]. Interestingly enough, this higher Thepa la is approximately in the same position and altitude as De Nga in Kekoo’s book. So, in short, the objective of this trip will be to locate De Nga and Thepa la and end this confusion of entity and title between peaks and passes. Pack your ice climbing gears nevertheless as we honestly do not know what to expect- a scramble or a climb. The meeting was over. I realized both of our smiles were turning into grins now. The glorious uncertainties of exploratory climbing in Sikkim have always been the ultimate lodestone for me. Now my old friend is about to get a taste of it. The spirit is contagious. If the medium is right it can pervade and permeate without much effort.  

Map with Thepa La (two of them) marked

The very next week after this meeting took place, a drive of around 5 hours brought us to Passingdong, a tiny village in the lower reaches of Talung chu valley. Parties that trek to Kishong lake via Tholung gompa has to drive past this village and proceed a bit further to the west till the unpaved road ends at Be. From Be, they more or less have to hike up north following the Ringi chu keeping the Lama Anden- De Nga ridge to their east. Coming back to our trip, while driving up from Siliguri; we had a short stop at Mangan and bought food and fuel for the trip from the local market. Neither the overnight sleeper train from Kolkata, nor the drive from Siliguri was bad. It took fewer hours on the bumpy road than we had imagined. At this time of the year the roads of Sikkim had less traffic as Durga Puja and Diwali vacations were over and the towns were quieter again till Christmas. No sooner than we had lugged our bags down from the car my friend Mingdup Lepcha appeared and lent us a helping hand to carry them into his house. Mingdup has been a close friend since we had forced our way up the Talung gorge back in 2011[4]. That evening we poured over copies of maps and its contours. I tried to explain to Mingdup the curious case of De Nga and Thepa la. It turned out that Mingdup had never heard of De Nga, but the name Thepa la rang a bell. Soon after close inspection of his description we understood that Mingdup had crossed the northerly Thepa la (4575m) before. But never went up its higher namesake.

Mingdup also mentioned that further down south on the ridge there are several lakes. Lepchas call them ‘Longdho Nye’, which means ‘pond upon a rock’. This reminded me that Lepchas call themselves ‘Mutanchi Rong Kup Rum Kup’, meaning ‘beloved children of mother nature and God’ and they are the original indigenous race of the region. Lepchas have language, literature and script of their own. In fact, before the Tibetan rule in Sikkim and British rule in Darjeeling, the language of the whole region was the Lepcha. Even during the early period of the British rule all administrative works of the acquired land were carried out in Lepcha[5]. There is also another name for the lakes in Nepalese however these days and that is ‘Panch Pokhri’. There is a faint trail up to Panch Pokhri. This was good news as this meant we do not have to hack our way up all the way from Passingdong. 

At the end of the discussion, with a deep and mysterious voice, Mingdup said to me, I knew you were up to something strange again. We all laughed. Mingdup’s remark however reminded me of Hercule Poirot’s statement in his last case Curtain. ‘Where you see a vulture hovering there will be a carcass. If you see beaters walking up a moor, there will be a shoot. If you see a man stop suddenly, tear off his coat and plunge into the sea, it means that there, there will be a rescue from drowning...and finally if you smell a succulent smell and observe several people walking along a corridor in the same direction you may safely assume that a meal was about to be served’.  And soon we were all walking along the wooden stairs of Mingdup’s house down to the kitchen ourselves. A delicious meal was on the table. I felt thankful for all the wonderful friends these mountains have given me. The blessing of friendship is all I have.

Next morning Mingdup bid us good bye and wished us luck. He could not join us as a close relative’s wedding was up around the corner of his calendar. We wished him a grand time and healthy ‘chhang’ drinking advices were exchanged. We crossed Talung chu and the started hiking up. After an hour we passed a deserted looking small village called ‘Leekh’. Another couple of hours of steady uphill hike brought us in the realm of Sikkim’s dense forests. The foliage and flora resembled strikingly with central African rain forests. We toiled up for another couple of hours and as soon as we found a little clearing and narrow stream nearby, we decided to camp. Across the valley we saw the village of Lingthem. Interestingly, this was the same village where Geoffrey Gorer had spent three months in 1937. Gorer’s observations and comments are an invaluable contribution to our knowledge of the Lepcha community even today[6]. 

At night Mangan’s lights flickered in a distance below and across the Teesta. Next morning we were up early and after a quick breakfast we were back on the forest trail. In places it became hard to find our way as the undergrowth had everything covered. Not a lot of trekkers hike up to Panch Pokhri, we thought. After a gruesome 6 hours climb we reached the top of a ridge. Crossing the ridge we traversed up north for another hour and then next to a beautiful waterfall and below an overhanging rock we made our second night’s shelter. Firewood was collected, water from the stream was as clear as it could be; and soon we had a fire going. A quick meal followed a few rounds of tea and soon we all found our private sleeping spaces below the rock and prepared for the long night ahead.

Morning of Day 3 began to show a lot of cirrus cloud accumulation high up in the sky across to the west. Climbing through the scree of a dry stream we could see the NE flanks of Pandim (6691m) and its ridge extending towards Tinchinkhang (6010m), Jopuno (5936m) and Narsing (5825m) in the distance.  At the end of the scree we reached the top of a sharp ridge. We figured, in Toyoshima’s map this point is marked as an unnamed pass of 3700m. We realized then that we were now on the ridge itself. On the same ridge further up north lies the higher Thepa la. We tried to see if we could spot a pass or saddle like feature from where we were standing. But our view was guarded by 3 rocky peaks. Further consultation of the maps revealed the these three peaks were respectively 4334m, 4593m and 4292m. They were obstructing the higher Thepa la (5064m) from us. To our immediate east was the deep valley of Rahi Chu. Looking alarmingly at the steady progression of the cirrus gathering we kept climbing north. Another good three hours of steep climb brought us higher up on the same but closer to the Panch Pokhri and we decided to pitch our tents. We were now just above 4000m. The evening transformed into a magical scene as the clouds decided to settle down in a low level stratus formation down the valley. The full moon appeared from somewhere over and above the mountain ranges of Tangkar la (4895m) and Dopendikang (5359m) to the east and south east. We knew just beyond that ridge was Chumbi valley. To our west were of course the great Kangchenjunga with all its majestic neighbour peaks. All the peaks in the map appeared before us. The peaks of the Singalila ridge starting from Talung (7349m) to the Kabrus (7338m and 7317m) lay to the furthest horizon. Proximal to that, were the peaks from Pandim (6691m) to Narsing (5825m). Then came the great east ridge of Kangchenjunga itself. We could make out distinctly the Zemu peak (7730m), the Simvu twins (6811m and 6812m), Siniolchu (6887m) and its Rock Needles (5712m). To add a sort of sense of completion to this map reading delight, the twin summits of Lama Anden (5868m) appeared further up north. We realized what a grand panoramic view point this was.

Next morning was a total anti climax to this. It seemed the valley clouds had an overnight change of mind and now they were determined to make life a little less rosy for us. It started snowing and within a couple of hours it was 4 inches deep. We knew we were pressed for time. We pushed further up north, along the ridge and as we got near peak 4334m, we dropped down to the east from the ridge and moving a bit further up north we decided to camp. We understood we were probably located a bit south of peak 4593m and hoped that this weather would change the next morning and if that happens we would climb peak 4593 and have a look at the higher Thepa la and the confusion of De Nga once and for all. The scheme seemed fine but the weather gods decidedly had other plans for us. It started snowing heavier that evening and continued all night. Morning brought no promises but 6 more inches of soft new powder. The intensity of snowfall lessened, but by then we knew that we were out of time. We packed our bags and wet tents and with a shrug of our shoulders headed back down. The curious case of De Nga remained unsolved. Well, until next time[7].

Observation: Approaching the problem of De Nga or Thepa La would be much easier from Lachen as the slopes are of easier gradient and almost devoid of the dense forest cover that one encounters while approaching from Dzongu. We also learnt ( and saw evidences) that the residents of Lachen do come in the vicinity of ‘Longdho Nye’ (Panch Pokhri) and the upper reaches of the Rahi Chu valley to gather Yarsa Gomba[8], not to mention the occasional poaching trips for Musk Deers and Himalayan Tahrs. This proved our presumption on the ease of access to this ridge from Lachen but increased our concern for the well being of the nature and wildlife nevertheless. We sincerely hope that the authorities of Kangchenjunga Biosphere Reserve will be a bit stricter in their regulations in near future as this area now falls under ‘Tholung-Kishong Conservation Zone’ as per a notification in the Sikkim Government Gazette Extraordinary dated 15 December 2006.

Postscript: Aloke seemed happy and satisfied with what we achieved as well. Well I will never know that for sure of course. As may be, deep down in his heart he is still screaming, didn’t I tell you so? Exploration climbing is not blitzkrieg after all!

[1] HJ 69 p.212

[2]See map 1, source: ‘Himalayan Vignettes- Kekoo Naoroji’, Page 232

[3]See map 2, source: ‘Sikkim Himalaya’ by Tadashi Toyoshima, 1977

[4] HJ 67, page 30

[5]‘Lepchas: Past and Present’- Dr. D.C.Roy, page viii

[6]‘Himalayan Village- An account of the Lepchas in Sikkim’-Geoffrey Gorer, First published 1938

[7]See map 3 for route described in this report

[8] Caterpillar Fungus, Ophiocordyceps sinensis, Chinese name: Dōng chóng xià cǎo, meaning ‘winter worm, summer grass’

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Friendship Expedition to Peak Lenin 7134m

An alpine style attempt on Peak Lenin 7134m

Text and Photos: Athol Jake Preston and Anindya Mukherjee

Summary: In August 2016, two friends, Athol Jake Preston (Australia) and Anindya Mukherjee (India) decided to rope up and climb the 7134m high Pik/Peak Lenin[1]by its north-west ridge (Razdelnaya route) in the Pamir Mountains of Central Asia in carry-camp and climb style, unsupported by porters or guides. They had to turn back from their summit camp (6148m) due to a heavy snow storm.

Peak Lenin from Base Camp Achik Tash 

“All big mountains are potentially dangerous; like fast cars they must be treated with respect. Yet if one uses common sense they can be traversed and enjoyed with impunity. The two popular ranges ...the Caucasus and the Pamir, are high and subject to violent storms. Also being marooned in a vast land mass they can be grippingly cold.”-Hamish Macinnes

 “In 1974 the objectives were ambitious-nothing less than an alpine-style climb up the East Face of Peak Lenin (23400ft/7134m) seemed satisfactory, with all the seriousness and difficulty of commitment at high altitude”. –Paul Nunn[2]

“Let the storm rage louder!”- V.I.Lenin[3]

Courtesy: wikipedia

A Stormy Background

Yes there was a storm on Peak Lenin in 1974 and it was quite deadly. Elvira Shateava, along with seven other women, climbed the mountain in the hopes of completing a traverse – up the Lipkin Ridge to the 7134m summit, and then down the Razdelny. The idea of the expedition was to prove that women could do this without the help of men. And they did prove their point. On 5thAugust, 1974, eight of them did reach the summit. And then came the storm that engulfed the team near the summit. They radioed Base Camp for approval to sleep up there. Vitalie Abalakov, the base camp in charge ordered the ladies to start descending. But they stuck rigidly and bravely to their planned traverse in the teeth of ferocious weather. Today it seems, perhaps they were a bit too rigid. 

 Eventually they did start to descend after their tents were destroyed by the winds and they had no shovels to dig a snow cave. For 22hrs, while attempting to descend in a horrible storm, one climber after another perished from exposure, until they had all died. Paul Nunn, member of the British Pamir Expedition that joined the international meet of mountaineers[4]on Peak[5]Lenin; had to leave their base camp along with other climbers in an attempt to reach and rescue the doomed team of eight women climbers. Paul Nunn later wrote, “In the late afternoon the final slopes to the ice cave at 17500ft were swept by a cold but relatively innocuous Lenin wind. In its depths, still several thousand feet below the plateau, the report of events above was received. Everyone was now in retreat, with Americans coming back by the Lipkin, Siberians far on the descent of that route, and the beleaguered camp 2 on the Razdelny relieved by John Evans and others from the American party. There was not a lot more to be done by us-in death it became a domestic tragedy.”

Years later, on the 13th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Razdelnaya route. 43 climbers out of the 45 present there, perished. This accident still stands out ominously to be the worst accident in mountaineering history[6].

However the recent history of disasters on Peak Lenin did not quite dampen our spirits and we decided to have a go at the mountain ‘unsupported’, ‘lightweight’ and in ‘alpine style’. Today, there are 16 established routes on Peak Lenin. Nine of them are on the southern side and seven on its northern slopes. The peak is quite popular with climbers due to its easy access and some uncomplicated routes. Considering the existing infrastructure and established BC/ABC locations, there are three most attractive routes from the North (i.e. the Kyrgyzstan side): Lipkin's rocks route and NE Ridge; the classic North Face route; the route via Razdelnaya Peak and the NW Ridge. In August 2016, for us two friends climbing the north-west ridge (standard route via Razdelnaya top) of Peak Lenin, unsupported and in alpine-style seemed like a satisfactory enough objective. After all, we both agree on one philosophy. Climbing is for enjoyment and not for death-dicing thrills. We however had one more special goal in this trip- meeting people and making friends.

Approaching the Mountain: Bishkek (800m) to Base Camp (3600m)

Base Camp

Inside the 'United Nations', the dining tent of Ak Sai Travels

After a short flight from Bishkek to Osh, we boarded our connection mini-bus. Fresh baked golden wheels of “lepyoshka” flat bread were bought and the hot, slightly salty tandoor cooked flavours were very welcome. Leaving Osh, the scenery was that monotonous Central Asian steppe. Apart from the ubiquitous poplars by the waterways, it was a treeless landscape dotted only with farm houses and yurts. Luncheon at one such location was a welcome stop, for stomachs and bladders. Deep-fried “boorsok” mini-breads, yoghurt and a light salad of tomato and cucumber were had. In the midst of swirling mists and much chilled temperatures we stopped at a mountain pass of 3,000m or so and caught fleeting glimpses of the snow-clad giants about us. Hours later our Latvian companion Oleg announced “Here road ends”, as the bus veered left and down a rugged bouncy track, under a faded arch of rusting metal which proclaimed the entrance to Pik Lenin National Park, and over a rumbling bridge. For the next few hours we jolted, bounced and swayed across the rolling grassed moraines until an encampment of canary yellow tents blurted out from the otherwise muted watercolours and leaden sky. It was without a doubt, the biggest and most well appointed base camp (or camp of any type) that we had ever seen. Every tent even had electricity! The gigantic marquee that was the dining/ kitchen tent we dubbed “the U.N.” in view of its multinational occupants. Beer was on tap, and there was even an espresso machine. It was surreal. 

The sudden jump in height from Bishkek (800m) to BC (at 3,600m) gave us mild taste of AMS. We ate little, but drawing on past experiences, drank much, stayed upright and rested. A short walk after dinner ended back in front of the UN with an impromptu game of cricket courtesy of Andy & Pete. These chaps were a father/ son double act from Britain. As darkness fell, so did a final wicket and the game ended and with it ended our AMS.

During the whole expedition, this base camp remained a funny place. There was a peculiarly artificial prelude and eternally changing flow of “ins” and “outs”. It had a general sense of “bonhomie” but also an edge of tension and isolation. A creeping and insidious sense of unreality. The young stern faced ‘Russian/ Kyrgyz’ waitresses scurrying about in stereotypical ‘peasant’ scarves and the craggy, wild-haired climbers, all unshaved and in the most motley attire, the vermillion iron-rich scars on the green horse pasture and pinned up samples of souvenirs. We were as odd as any. Yet, being guideless and self-supporting we were oddities apart. Somewhat like North Korea at the real UN, we were accepted in, but seated apart and initially dissuaded from socializing with the other ‘full fee paying’ folk. Doing our best to accept this incongruity, we took the next day as a complete rest day. After our waited table breakfast, we ambled up the valley to reconnoiter our route to Camp 1, and to just develop a sense of belonging and connection.

Herds of horses, golden marmots, asters, wild garlic chives, and various other flora and fauna were in abundance. By the gorge entrance we met 2 young lads lolling in the warm sun and grass by their ponies. Perhaps hoping to earn some extra cash they offered us rides. In our best mix of gesticulations, the odd word of Russian, Kyrgyz and Arabic we conveyed the unfortunate fact that we had with us not a penny. Not to be put off, they parted Raja from his beloved Ireland Mountaineering Club buff, in return for “photographik” atop the ponies. Much laughter and smiles later we were back at the UN.

Base Camp (3600m) to Camp 1 (4400m)

Our ramblings around Base Camp were ever rewarding

25kgs is a fair load to carry anytime. Going up from 3,600m to 4,400m along dry, treeless tracks in full sun, it is fair graft. The soft grassy meadows with the myriad cheeky marmots gave way to a series of steep, loose, muddy zig-zags that were scoured into the red clay wall. Having crossed the saddle (the pilgrims’ pass), we descended loose scree slopes to the well worn track that hugged the right hand wall. Here and there a small slip of fine shale cascaded over the track to the dirty glacier below. Our earlier vim evaporated with the moisture in the dry alpine air and strong UV light. At a small river crossing we met Oleg and the Latvians who rose at our approach and cheerily showed us the best place to jump across from wobbly rock to wobbly rock. Not as easy as it looked with our tired legs and bulging packs…but dry we arrived on the other side. “20 minutes, 20 minutes!” assured a thoroughly scurrilous Oleg. 50 minutes later, we saw him again, and it was a cheeky “10 minutes more”. Eventually, like an oasis we stumbled into Camp 1. It was 2.30pm. We had walked for 8 hours and were halfway done for the day. Met by “Vlad” the Camp manager we were whisked into a “mini UN” dining tent and fed like kings. Oleg was waiting for us with a huge smile and piping hot tea. Energy flowed back with speed. Satiated, we turned to the task of returning to BC. As we set off, the weather changed and pellets of graupel pinged off our jackets. Unburdened and fed we raced back down. We continued down to BC and by 7.30pm were sat before a table. Perhaps now, our day return trip had somehow “proven” us. For the unsmiling waitresses and guides now in fact smiled and greeted us. We ate and went to sleep a little more tired, but a little less alien.

Camp I

 On 4th August, 2016, after a day of rest at base, we were off with about 15-17kg each. The hike was uneventful and we arrived at C1 by 2.30pm. The next morning, watched a crazy ‘human centipede’ slowly crawl up the slopes towards the bergschrund and crevasses before the ‘Frying Pan’ area above that leads to C2. Between the two of us, we had never seen so many climbers on a route. Raja was feeling a bit of a cough/ cold so we happily took another rest day. Acclimatization is such a crucial thing, and rushing it never pays off IMHO. Our push to meet every single person in the climbing world now ensnared the Catalan team from Barcelona, lead by the wild, always laughing and living big ‘Xavi’. These guys were such a burst of pure immature happiness and joy. We walked over to the start of the climb …surprisingly further away then it looked! We dubbed the bergschrund crossing point, “the dental filling” and wandered back to watch the French Team’s leader “Daniel” play French blues guitar.

Ready for the summit: to Camp 2 (5200m) and Camp 3 (6148m)

A half buried tent in Camp II

From Camp I to Camp II

On 6th August, we stored our extra kit, cleaned out the C1 tent and bade our farewells. The snow and rock crunched oddly under our semi-frozen boots as we strolled off in search of flags and cairns in the 4.30am gloom. A longer walk than expected again with heavy packs. At bottom of slope, we roped up for safety and headed up over “the dental filling” (about 10.30am!). It was a snowy & cloudy day all the time, and as the slope eased off a bit, into a series of deceptive false crests. Sun broke through a bit and finally as we trudged into sight of the C2 tents nestled protectively against the rocky buttress. We crawled into C2 at 3pm and got the tent set-up. Next morning we were back down at Camp 1 and thus hoped to improve acclimatization.

 Down at Camp 1 we re-planned our schedule and summit day attempt. Sorted lighter loads with less food and gas. In the afternoon, snow and sleet came and wind picked up. On 10thAugust, by 8.30am we were across “the dental filling”, then we were ‘absolutely cooked, steamed, roasted and grilled’ by the sun in the ‘frypan’…again! We bumbled into C2 to unbury our tent just as a storm/ whiteout hit. Melted snow for dinner and stayed out till 8pm radio call. Camp 2 is at about 5,200m. We melt snow and restore ourselves with endless cups of tea (black and basil), and greeting the steady slow stream of arrivals. Our tent being on the outer edge (symbolic of our place in the guided climbing sphere of life, we are not allowed to pitch our tent with the guided folk higher up), we are the “first and last” guardians of C2. The sun is burning hot, but inside the tent is an oven. We rest and sort our loads for the coming move up to C3. At about 8pm, a team of 3 70 odd year old Russians from Leningrad (not Saint Petersburg! J) arrive and set up their camp next to us. In broken gesticulations they ask if it is OK to camp next to us. Gents! Welcome all! Their kit was archaic in the extreme. Canvas rucksacks; with no hip belts; leather strapped crampons, tracksuit pants and a full size pressure cooker! But the speed and adroitness at which they attended to their tasks, and got fully set up and dinner cooked, was amazing. They were hard, experienced mountain men.

Jake and our cosy tent (courtesy Jason Cordier)

Jake looking down towards the Lenin glacier

12th August, we packed everything, and greeted the neighbours. So roped up, we set off up through the exclusive suburb of upper C2 towards the col above us. Then we swung left along a flatter section to the bottom of the steep slopes up to C3. We met Lukas coming down triumphantly from a 22 hour summit return. A new long time record for Pik Lenin! The final snow slopes up to C3 are steep (45-50 degrees) and taxingly deep in snow. Clouds and wind really pick up as we near the top. C3 is literally on the lip of the slope too, and as we popped over and into it, we were greeted by a half buried gaggle of orange and red and green domes. We found a slight depression amidst the city where a tent had once been, and set about excavating a site. We threw up the tent in a satisfactory way and decided to melt more snow and eat salami and chocolate. A disappointing weather forecast. 3 or 4 days of high wind and snow were on the cards.  Nonetheless, we felt strong and positive. We set the alarm for midnight and hoped for the best.

But of course it’s the storm again

It was 13thAugust and the alarm woke us to a tent that was all but collapsing in on us. We were hallways buried and more snow was falling. Hoar frost covered everything and the headlamps revealed dancing ice crystals in the dark cold air about us. We both had headaches and by 6am, it was clear that there would be no summit attempt that day. Damp, cold and with half our kit buried somewhere under 1-1.5m of new snow (tent and us included). We did the only sensible thing, and cancelled the summit attempt. Out in the waning morning light, teams were digging out their tents like little moles. Flurries of snow were heaved skyward in gentle arcs that glittered in ephemeral rainbows, and then fell back from whence they came. All in all, only one team set out for summit from C3 (we heard later that it was a short lived and unsuccessful foray). By 8am radio call, we learnt the nasty truth. Similar snowfall and winds were expected for the next 3-4 days. That was it then. Down we must go. 

At Camp III, on the morning after the storm. Jake with our team flag "Stop Killing Start Climbing"

State of affairs in Camp III

 Breaking camp is a laborious and cold business. Yet leaving is not altogether unwelcome. The clouds cleared momentarily, and we were treated to gorgeous views down the valley. With still heavy packs we headed down the deep, soft steep slopes towards C2. The descent was hard. It was steep, the snow up to our thighs or knees and we were going down without having had a real throw of the dice at the summit. Mother Nature and the fickle fortunes of mountain weather play no favourites and do as they will. There were very few others going up, but many down. Just above the col, we met the Leningrad blokes. They had camped atop the col overnight, and were just beginning on the steep slopes up. Hard men, and huge smiles and shrugs as to the weather. After the wind and snow of C3, C2 is a broiling, simmering, soul-sapping hot mess. We pick up our cached kit in C2 and take 15-20mins rest. We had eaten naught but a little chocolate all day, and now had packs of about 30kgs each. We walked straight into the “Frypan” and aimed for the dental-filling. To be fair, the snow condition here was terrible. Crampons were balling badly at every step. It seemed that the descent was taking forever, and that the glacier after the slopes endless. Finally we emerged up the rocky moraine wall to an agency’s camp and the first thing that the manager said to us was, “Beer? Fanta? Cola?” – No “Hi!” No “Salam-alaikum!” No “Khandai?”…Just an offer to take our money. Our welcome back to ‘civilization’ was not exactly inspiring or consoling. We were reduced instantly to nothing more than walking wallets. Such an irony under a mountain named after Lenin, but so is almost everything in life!

A couple of days later we were down at base camp and waited for our bus back to Osh. The bus comes late, we stow bags and fill it. The slow rocking, bumpy ride into the sunset commences. It was a magnificent sunset too, with streaked rays of orange gold and burnt clouds, casting the rolling moraine flats and yurt villages in a cloak of serene warmth. Ghostly villages, blacked out and lifeless, floats by the dirty window. Chatter faded away to zero inside the mini-bus. It was after midnight, I suppose, that we disembarked at the hotel in Osh, and wearily hauled our loads to our rooms. Sleep came fast after a glorious hot shower – the first in weeks.

As for Peak Lenin, it was about to experience a few days of storm and snow. Like it was supposed to happen. As for us two, we got what we came for. Two friends got together to climb a mountain, in good style and on their way home they had made many friends. Like it was supposed to happen.  

Raja and Jake in front of their tent in Camp II

 Acknowledgement: We are grateful to Uttarbanga Sambad for their kind grant in this Friendship Expedition of ours. This is where our #StopKillingStartClimbing movement started. :) :) We are also tremendously happy with the Base Camp support provide by Ak Sai Travels. We can certainly recommend their services. 

   References:

[1] The peak was discovered in 1871 and originally named Mount Kaufmann after Konstantin Kaufman, the first Governor-General of Turkestan. In 1928 the mountain was renamed Lenin Peak after the Russian revolutionary and first leader of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Lenin. In Tajikistan, the peak was renamed again in July 2006, and today it is officially called in Tajik Qullai Abuali ibni Sino (қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино, Ibn Sina Peak or, alternatively, Avicenna Peak) after Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicenna). In Kyrgyzstan, the peak is still officially called Lenin Chokusu (Ленин Чокусу, Lenin Peak).-Wikipedia

[2]Storm on Peak Lenin, Paul Nunn, The Mammoth Book of Mountain Disasters, Editor: Hamish Macinnes

[3]Before the Storm, V.I.Lenin, Proletary no. 1, August, 1906, Lenin, Collected Works (1965)

[4] In the 1970s, organized climbing camps ran in both the Caucasus and the Pamir and thus climbers from all over the world had the opportunity to climb in the mountains of the Soviet Union. In 1974, the Federation of Sport and the Soviet Mountaineering Federation of the USSR had made a huge effort of organisation in inviting climbers from many nations in a meet in the Achik Tash valley. Under the great domes of Peak Lenin and her neighbours they built a tented village for more than 150 foreign climbers and many more from the Soviet Mountaineering Federation. – Storm on Peak Lenin, Paul Nunn, p-300, The Mammoth Book of Mountain Disasters

[5]Peak Lenin, also spelled ‘Pik’, is a border mountain between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, but ascents from the Tajik side are very uncommon. Easier access and easier routes are the main practical reasons why a vast majority choose the Kyrgyz side. The fact that Tajikistan had one of history's most brutal civil wars some years back and still has a very bad reputation of being a dangerous place is another factor. Pik Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union -Summitpost

[6] http://www.nytimes.com/1990/07/18/world/avalanche-kills-40-climbers-in-soviet-central-asia.html 

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A Happy Ascent of Satopanth in 2016- A report

A Happy Ascent of Satopanth 7075m

Summary: In September 2016, a small group of climbers from India and Germany climbed Satopanth (7075m) and an unnamed 6008m peak by the traditional routes in semi alpine style and without using any fixed rope on its famous north-east ridge-north face route. 

Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee

Satopanth from Sundar Bamak, photo: Anindya Mukherjee

~~~~~~~~

The happy climber, like the aged Ulysses, is one who has “drunk delight of battle with his peers”, and this delight is only attainable by assaulting cliffs which tax to their utmost limits of the powers of the mountaineers engaged. This struggle involves the same risk, whether early climbers attacked what we now call easy rock, or whether we moderns attack formidable rock, or whether the ideal climber of the future assaults cliffs which we now regard as hopelessly inaccessible. -A.F.Mummery[1]

~~~~~~~~

Snow coated the mountain range and one mountain in particular.

All of the other mountains stood nearby.

Calling it fortunate, calling it lucky.

The mountain was proud; its peers have noticed him for the very first time.

-Peter Mariutto, Observation & Perception

The Mountain and its Peers

It was end of July, 1947. The Swiss Garwal expedition, after the miraculous survival of their Sherpa Sirdar Wangdi Norbu[2]and after successfully climbing Kedarnath; moved up east towards Chaturangi glacier with the intention to climb Bhagirathi I. But as they got closer to their objective they were not so sure anymore. Andre Roch writes,  

We established a camp at about 16,000 feet at Chaturangi and on 29th July we started off up the Sundar glacier. It turned to the right and we could not quite see to the head, but such as was visible was hardly encouraging. The valley was closed by a granite wall topped with blue ice which broke off continually, starting avalanches that swept right over the glacier. I hesitated, for if the entire approach was threatened by falling seracs Bhagirathi would be out of the question.

My friends thought the approach to Satopanth seemed better, so we changed our plans, and, not wishing to waste the rest of the day, we decided to establish a camp at its foot. It was pouring with rain, but we climbed to about 18,000 feet and pitched our tents on the moraine of the side glacier which flows from Satopanth itself.[3]

In the summit party of Satopanth, theirs was a team of 3 Swiss alpinists (Rene Dittert, Alexander Graven, Andre Roch) and 5 sherpas. Andre Roch writes about the summit day, 

'Next morning Tenzing[4]started the primus at 2.30 and an hour and a half later we left the camp on two ropes, Sutter and Graven, followed by Dittert and me. It was still dark, but the sun rose as we climbed the first slope.... On the last rocks, 500 feet below the summit ridge, we paused. Here the slope became much steeper, the top was overhung with cornices, and the avalanche danger seemed greater than ever. We hesitated, wondering what to do. My friends tied themselves to a rock and I climbed 70 yards, the length of the two ropes knotted end to end. Then I dug a hole in the snow from where I could make a decision. A slightly crusted layer of snow about 2 feet thick rested on the ice without sticking to it, and a small granulous layer separated the snow from the ice. This was perfect for avalanches, but I thought that, had the situation really been as dangerous as it appeared, an avalanche would already have swept down, or at least there would be signs of cracks on the north face. There were neither, and I estimated that the weight of four men on the layer of snow should not be enough to start an avalanche. Besides, it would have been a shame to have given up so near the summit. Unroped I climbed the slope alone to see if it would go. The snow held, and I reached the ridge in about twenty minutes, crossed it and sat down on my sack to rest and look at the incomparable view. My friends soon joined me.

                                              Andre Roch                         Rene Dittert                               Alexander Graven 

Thus, Satopanth became an ‘unexpected conquest’ for the team and the mountain was climbed for the very first time. Apart from this expedition climbing Satopanth (and few more mountains in the same trip), it was special as this was the first post war foreign expedition to climb in India[5].  But this was not the first time the mountain had seen its seekers. Satopanth was first attempted by an Austrian team (R. Schwarzgruber) in 1938, from both the northeast and northwest ridges, but without success. The second ascent of Satopanth came only in 1981, again from the northeast ridge, (M. Gardzielewski and L. Lehrer). Then in the following year (1982), a Japanese team (K. Toya) made the third ascent of the mountain. The west summit of Satopanth was climbed first by a Japanese team (M. Omiya) from the northwest ridge in 1984. The south face (from the Swachand Bamak) was first attempted by Polish climbers in 1983, by Hungarians and the Japanese in 1984. This face was first climbed by a Polish team (R. Kolakowski and T. Kopys) in 1986[6].

The first Indian attempts on the mountain were done by a Kolkata based club ‘Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee’ (G.G.E.C) in 1968 and 1974 consecutively. Biren Sarkar the leader of the 1974 expedition wrote: “After its failure to climb Satopanth (23123’) in 1968, Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee took it as a prime objective to make another attempt on the same peak...without employing any sherpas or instructors from any mountaineering institute. With this end in view, team consisting of 14 members pushed onto Sundar Bamak and set up a main base at 17400’...Members reconnoitred the upper region of Sundar Bamak, fixed up rope on the dangerous and difficult north ridge at 19000’. Unfortunately, series of avalanches roared down from the crest of the north ridge at 19000’ and this has in fact prevented us from setting up a camp...from where the summit attempt was anticipated to be made. ...Sujal Mukherjee, one of our climbing members, had also developed lung trouble with fever and breathing difficulty. Considering the seriousness of the situation we had to abandon the expedition and rush to the lower region for safety. It was therefore our second defeat.”[7]

Sujal Mukherjee, the climber who developed pneumonia in the 1974 Satopanth climb, happens to be my uncle. Much later, I learnt from my interactions with Sujal, how deeply he felt about ‘almost’ climbing Satopanth back in 1974. Over the years, after going through similar experiences myself, I can relate with Sujal’s feelings totally. But what I admire more than anything else is the fact they were climbing Satopanth without any Sherpa or high altitude porter support.  Back in those days such bold and purist style of mountaineering was unthinkable in the Indian climbing scene and neither has the scene changed much today.  

Although in 1974, the G.G.E.C gang were lucky enough to escape any fatalities, another Indian team in May 1986 was not so lucky. They met with a sad and disastrous end as an avalanche took away four lives and among them was Dr Minoo Mehta[8]. While writing an obituary of Dr. Mehta, Brigadier Gyan Singh wrote,

...he was not too enamoured of the imported mountaineering culture. They are too competitive and commercial, he felt. He thought Indians could evolve their own mountaineering ethos in keeping with their culture and heritage. [9]

We did see perhaps a hint of the ‘mountaineering ethos’ Dr. Minoo Mehta was talked about in his post Everest (1984) ventures.  In 1985, he led a two-man expedition to Matri and then in 1986 another very lightweight expedition to Satopanth, which in an unforgiving manner took away the entire team of climbers.

Satopanth today is one of the most well-known and popular mountains (after Nun possibly) of the Indian Himalaya. It is difficult to get a booking with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation in a desirable period as agents tend to pre-book the mountain for their ‘clients’. Western climbers, especially Germans, seem to have developed a fascination for Satopanth (while the French have for Nun). This is possibly due to its impressive altitude and the variety of technical permutations and combinations of varying difficulty, which the massif has to offer. Many large Indian expeditions regularly climb Satopanth as part of their Pre-Everest exercise and leave the mountain scathed and littered in the process[10].  

But, to me and my comrades however, it is its peers such as Dr Mehta and Sujal, make the mountain more interesting and worthy of a climb and that too in a style and ethos that these climbers stood for.  Satopanth killed Dr. Mehta in 1986 and cancer took away Sujal Mukherjee in 1994. But their legacy lives on to keep inspiring us.  

Approach

Our team united in Delhi on August 28, 2016. After the routine briefing session at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation we took an overnight train to Dehradun.  Early morning hours saw us driving past the Dehradun roads and soon we were on a relatively quiet road to Uttarkashi. We spent an additional day at Uttarkashi. On that day, part of our team got busy in running around with copies of permits that we had already obtained from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and The Chief Wildlife Warden’s office of Uttarakhand, to deliver at the offices of the Forest department, Police department, District administration and the list goes on. Rest of the team however could engage in more productive work of shopping of food and grocery and packing. On the first day of September, we drove to Gangotri. The air was finally clean and the heat almost lovable. Our spirits rose to the thought of the weeks ahead of us. 

Our team having lunch together in Gangotri

On September 2, 2016, after more paperwork at the entrance of the Gangotri National Park we were finally away to the mountains. In three days, with camps at Bhujbas and Nandanvan we reached Vasuki Tal (4680m) and established our Base Camp. From the very next morning, i.e. September 5, we started carrying loads to a suitable Advance Bace Camp site. After 3 days, the ABC was all supplied and we acclimatised a bit more. The ABC was at an altitude of 5200m on the lateral moraine of Sundar Bamak. While approaching the ABC I was reminded of the incident of the missing trekkers of Kalindi (2010) and showed my friends exactly where and how I found (July 2011) the dead bodies of the 8 missing (3 trekkers from West Bengal and 5 from Uttarkashi). It was a silent reminder of how insignificant we are against the fury of nature and death among other affairs is one of the easiest things to happen.

The view of Satopanth massif from Sundar glacier is one of the most breathtaking views I have ever had in the Indian Himalaya. The scale and grandeur of Satopanth simply dominates the canvas here. Once one takes the turn from Chaturangi glacier and drops down to Sundar Bamak, one enters the royal court of the mighty Satopanth. No human being then will have the power to take his eye off his majesty or even bat an eyelid when the day is clear and the mountain is in full view.  The description of the massif however has been given in a more matter of fact manner by Brig. Ashok Abbey (then Major),

When viewed from the head of the Sundar valley, Satopanth has a trapezium shaped near horizontal summit, with a prominent rock band on its north face. The east summit of the massif is 7075 m while the west summit is 7045 m. The ridge joining both the summits is almost 500 to 700 m long and runs from west to east, before finally taking a southeast direction, from a slight kink on the summit ridge. The north face of the mountain has two prominent ridges, the northeast ridge and the northwest ridge. The northeast ridge of the mountain, starting from Pt 7075 m is about 6 km long and peters out at pt 5801 m, which is the northern most point of the ridge. The ridge separates Suralaya Bamak from the Sundar Bamak. The northwest ridge is about 2 km long. Emanating from the west summit, the ridge drops to a col and then rises to a rocky pinnacle (Pt 6010 m), before joining the Sundar Bamak. The south face of the mountain has the southeast and the southwest ridges. The south face is bounded by the Swachand Bamak. The Suralaya Bamak lies to the east of the massif.[11]

Satopanth and its NE ridge, Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

The Climb

We had finally shifted to ABC from Vasuki Tal on the 9thof September and in the next 2 days we now established another camp, bringing us a bit closer to the beginning of the actual climb of the north-east Ridge. This camp was approximately 5350m and was located on the true right lateral moraines of the East Sundar glacier. We found remnants of old camps here. On 12thSeptember, myself and Mahinder started working on gaining the north–east ridge.  Keeping the East Sundar glacier’s icefall to our west, and after negotiating the yawning ‘randkluft’ we started climbing the loose rock step.

ABC in Sundar Bamak, Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

The end of the rock step and beginning of the crevassed fields to the col, Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

From the base of the rock step we fixed 4 coils of static rope and returned to our intermediate camp at 5350m with the news of route to the col (5920m) was now open. Next morning, Chandra and I, volunteered to bring further food and fuel from BC; while Lakpa and Christian did a ferry to the col. On 15th September, Christian and Lakpa moved up to the col on the north-east ridge and set up camp. The very morning of 16thSeptember, saw Christian and Lakpa tackle the north-east ridge.

Col Camp, photo: Christian Ranke

The famous ridge walk, photo: Christian Ranke

They went pitch by pitch, belaying each other in places. They moved fast and light and by mid day of 16th September they reached the summit of Satopanth (7075m). The heavily corniced summit ridge of Satopanth (7075m) and Satopanth West was long and the undulations gave false sense of height to the climbers. So they ended up traversing a few humps until they were satisfied of reaching the highest of them all. It took them 7 hours from the col camp to get to the top and another 5 hours to get back to the safety of their tent on the col.

Lakpa reaching the summit, Photo: Christian Ranke

The summit of Satopanth with its undualted ridge, photo: Christian Ranke

Lakpa being lowered from the summit ridge through the broken cornice, photo Christian Ranke

Lakpa down climbing from the summit ridge. The cornice above was broken by Christian and Lakpa on their way to the top, Photo: Christian Ranke

On 17thSeptember, Aloke, Mahinder and Anindya moved up to the col and camped a little below to avoid high wind. The next morning, 18th September, the three climbed to the col (5920m) and climbed the unnamed ice pinnacle (6008m) due north of the col and came back to the intermediate camp the same day.

convenient camp for the second summit team. Satopanth on the right and 6008m on left, photo: Anindya Mukherjee

The whole team was now united and merry. We had managed to climb a mighty mountain extremely lightweight and by using minimal support. We fixed rope only on the rock step. In total 800mts of static rope was fixed. The formidable north-east ridge was climbed alpine style. In addition to Satopanth, unnamed peak 6008m was also climbed. Within a span of 10 days (Base to Base) two summits were climbed. What more can an alpinist want in order to be happy? Mummery’s comments were now making more sense than ever before.

video clip from the top of 6008m peak

Team

Christian Ranke (Germany), Reinhard Friesinger (Germany), Rajeev Ranjan, Aloke Kumar Das, Lakpa Sherpa, Sayantan Datta (Liaison Officer), Anindya Mukherjee , Ratna Bhadaur, Mahinder Adhikari

 References: 

[1] My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus-A.F.Mummery

[2]‘Wangdi had cut his throat with his knife which, covered with blood, was stuck in the snow at his side. He told us later that he had seen three men coming to fetch him, but that, seeing them turn back, he had thought himself abandoned. He also heard his wife's voice and thought he was dying of thirst. He decided to end his life as quickly as possible so tried to pierce his heart. Being unsuccessful he tried to cut his throat. His neck and chest were covered with dried blood when we found him, but fortunately he had missed the artery and had only succeeded in making a large gash like a second gaping mouth in the middle of his throat.’- The Swiss Garwal Expedition, Andre Roch, HJ, Vol-15

[3]The Swiss Garwal Expedition, Andre Roch, HJ, Vol-15

[4]Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. The other four sherpas were namely, Ajeeba, Ang Dawa, Ang Norbu, and Penooree

[5]The first post-war foreign expedition to the Himalaya in 1947 was Swiss, led by Andre Roch. I was invited to join the party of five, and it was a revelation to see the abundance and quality of their equipment and food after the austerity of the long war years. During the two months I spent with them, our first base was on the Gangotri glacier when the main summit of Kedarnath peak was climbed, after which the base was moved to Nandanban on the Chaturangi glacier for the ascent of Satopanth. We had the entire region to ourselves. –The Early Years, Trevor Braham, HJ, Vol-64

[6]Satopanth-the Mountain of Good Faith, Major Ashok Abbey, HJ, Vol-54

[7]Satopanth Expedition-1974, Biren Sarkar, Himalayan Mountaineering Journal, Vol-IX, P-128

[8]Dr. Minoo Mehta, Bharat Manghre, Nandu Page and Nar Bahadur died while attempting the mountain by its northwest ridge route

[9]Indian Mountaineer, Spring’87, Number-19,p-174

[10]The author has direct experience and photographic evidence to prove this point

[11]Satopanth-The Mountain of Good Faith- Major Ashok Abbey, HJ, vol-54

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Adventure Mania Expedition in Spiti 2017: Inviting Climbers

Two Peaks, Two Passes in Two Weeks

Fluted Peak 6139. A 1994 photo by Arun Samant. Image Courtesy: The Himalayan Journal

Summary: In July 2017, a team of experienced mountaineers and expedition guides of Adventure Mania invites aspiring climbers to participate and climb with them in the Losar valley where over 14 peaks are over 5900m. In this trip however, we plan to climb two major mountains, namely Larimo (5995m) and Fluted Peak (6139m) and also climb two passes in the process: Gyundi Pass (5700m) and Losar Pass (5715m). The itinerary is built in a way so that the climber can acclimatise well and enjoy the expedition thoroughly and yet the trip ends within a comfortable time frame of just 2 weeks ex Manali. 

The Mountains: Fluted Peak 6139m and Larimo 5995m

Location: North West Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, Losar Valley, Catchments of the Suvita Nala

Difficulty: The climbs are from Basic snow & ice to mixed rock and ice climb. Fairly interesting and challenging due to altitude

Time: July 2017

Tentative date of departure from Manali: July 8, 2017

Style of climb: Guided ascent using fixed rope where necessary 

Requirements

We at Adventure Mania believe that climbing mountains is a serious business irrespective of the height. Since the route may offer technical ice sections, participants are expected to have appropriate climbing skills. The high altitude alone requires a high degree of fitness and endurance. In addition, participants should already have some experience in high-altitude climbing. Adventure Mania Sherpa and Guide team will fix rope, help ferry loads and set up camps, take you to the summit, and even cook for you all along the route/trip.

For more information on costs and booking procedure send email to : anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

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Having a nice time on rocks of Susunia

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2016: A Good Year

It took me more than a year to realize that I have not posted anything in my blog since Jan 2, 2016! Really? No posts, no updates, no reports whatsoever. It was such an active year! An year full of climbs, explorations and adventure. Yet, what was I thinking? Facebook of course. I was busy posting almost daily updates on that monstrous social network and getting sucked up in the process. Now, finally I have been able to ( at least I would like to think that I have) distance myself from Facebook a bit. It is now time for me to write down in brief about the things that happened in my life in 2016 ( as if that matters to someone). The first big adventure of 2016 for me was climbing the north face of Batian (Mt Kenya). Together with my good friend Martin Boner we gave big Batian a try. Here is a photo of the North face of Batian from near Shipton's Camp. We followed the standard route. Chris, our Kenyan friend also joined us in the climb at the last moment. Thus it was a party of 3 attempting the big wall.

But no, we could not reach the summit of Batian. We had to turn back due to poor visibility ( a few more complications). It was my first ever Big Wall climb and I must say I learned a lot and have become determined more than ever to go back and finish what we started. Here is a video clip taken from our turn around point. Here you see Martin starting to abseil. We abseiled till 9pm that day and only then could reach the safety of the valley.

In April 2016, the first thing I attempted in the Indian Himalaya was a solo climb in Garwal. I had my eyes set on a particular mountain (which I do not want to disclose now) and after walking two days from the road head I got to the base camp. After a couple of days of acclimatization and recce, as I was getting all set for the final push, it started snowing. And it snowed, and it snowed. By the time it stopped the slope was ripe for slab avalanches and I decided to quit this project.There will be a next time, I told myself and headed down. May 2016, did not turn out to be great either. I was fortunate enough to be a part of an Indo-Scotish expedition aiming to explore and do first ascents in alpine style. I was stoked but I got sick. The whole trip was foiled due to my illness and it felt really depressing. It was a small team of two. Susan Jensen and myself. Here is Susan's report (to the Alpine Club, London) of that trip:  http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/ac2/documents/expeditions/reports/MEF_16_30.pdf Thankfully enough my lung did heal (over the next 4 weeks of rest and medication) and the next big adventure was an attempt on the 7134m high Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan. Once again we were a two men team. In July-August, 2016, Athol Jake Preston and myself had decided to climb the mountain unsupported and keeping it as pure as possible. We named our little expedition 'Friendship Expedition'. Two friends set out to climb a mountain in Central Asia, meeting people and making friends in the process. What could be more exciting and rewarding than that! After making 3 camps on the mountain we were stopped by a snowstorm ( and almost buried) that continued for 3 days. We had to turn back from 6134m (Razdelnaya) Camp 3. No we did not get to the summit, but we did give it a solid try and that too entirely by ourselves. No porters, no guides, no set up camps etc. The Base Camp and ABC facilities of our agent Ak-Sai was amazing though and if we come back (of which there is a high chance) it will definitely be with Ak-Sai. Here is a photo of my dearest buddy Jake in Camp 3 holding our team flag (and message: Stop Killing Start Climbing):

Right after our adventure on Peak Lenin it was time for me to head back to Garwal Himalaya to climb Satopanth (7075m). I was part of a Indo-German team that climbed Satopanth and another 6000m peak. No ropes were fixed beyond the col and Satopanth was climbed by Lakpa and Chris, while the 6000m was climbed by Aloke, and myself. Here is a view of Satopanth from the summit of the unnamed 6000er.

After spending 4 weeks on Satopanth I got a few weeks of rest with my family. It was nice as this was the time for festivities, Durga Puja and Diwali. A nice time to be with your near and dear ones. After Diwali, it was time for me to head back to mountains once again. This time to an exploratory expedition to North Sikkim with my old ( and new) Irish friends. During this expedition we explored Zumthul Phuk glacier and a few unnamed glaciers due north of it. We were rewarded with a few first ascents of peaks and passes and with that the active. Here is a photo from that trip:

And this sort of encapsulates the year 2016 for me. Some day soon a more detailed report of all of the above trips will be written and published. We live in hope. Till then have a great 2017 folks!

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The 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Oration- A brief report

The 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture was held in Rotary Sadan, Kolkata on 19th December, 2015. Those of you who attended the programme may have noticed that we had already started to call this event an 'oration' and not a 'lecture'. Both 'lecture' and 'oration' being synonymous, some of us preferred the latter better. Here is hoping we will stick to 'oration' for the future events and not give in to further caprice. We were delighted and honoured to have the Himalayan Club (https://www.himalayanclub.org/) as our associates for this evening. Surely Sujal Mukherjee's spirit of the outdoors united us and it was a lovely resonance in the end. We sincerely hope that this association would continue in the years to come. We were also happy to have Dream Wanderlust (http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/) as our Web Media Partner for the event. It was a new experience for us, and I must say that all of us who get together to organize this event welcomed their involvement. Their involvement assures that we have been able to archive all the proceedings digitally and thus make it available to a wider audience. On 19th December, 2015, Dr. Kallol Das delivered the welcome address for the 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Oration. Dr. Das pointed out why we started this oration series in the first place and shared his hopes on continuing this effort in the future.

Dr. Kallol Das delivering the welcome address

Shortly after this a brief video based on the interviews of Sujal's friends and contemporaries was played. Here is the youtube link to that video:

After this video screening, our Guest of Honour, Sri Harish Kapadia took to the podium and delivered a hilarious yet insightful illustrated talk titled "Games Mountaineers Play- a humorous look at mountains and mountaineers, both in mountains and otherwise". It is needless to mention that the audience simply loved it.

Guest of Honour Sri Harish Kapadia delivers his delightful presentation

Sri Banabhshan Nayak felicitates Sri Harish Kapadia

After Sri Kapadia's talk, it was Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya's turn to come on the podium and introduce Prof. George W Rodway, the Guest Speaker of the 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Oration. In a very well researched manner and by means of a powerpoint presentation Dr. Bhattacharya introduced both Prof. Rodway and the theme of his talk for the evening.

Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya introduces Guest Speaker Prof. George W Rodway

 Finally it was Prof. George W Rodway on the podium and it was time for his much awaited oration titled :" A Little History of Some Big Peaks: the saga of medical science associated with the struggle for heights" . The audience was engrossed in Prof. Rodway's talk and were taken on a mesmerizing journey starting from 300 BC to the present day of human knowledge regarding the understanding of the high altitude and its realities.

Prof. George W Rodway delivering the 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Oration

Sujal's brother Sri Nishith Ranjan Mukherjee felicitating Prof. Rodway

At the end of Prof Rodway's oration it was our dear friend from the Himalayan Club Rajesh Gadgil's turn to deliver the closing note and vote of thanks to the audience and everyone who made the evening a grand success.

Rajesh Gadgil delivering the closing note

Thus another wonderful evening reached its completion. We certainly hope to see you again for the 4th session of the Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Oration.

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Satopanth Expedition 2016

We are going to organize an expedition to Mount Satopanth (7075m), Garhwal Himalaya,India in 2016. Duration: 28 August, 2016 to 27 September, 2016. This will be our second expedition to Mount Satopanth after 2011. We have led and climbed other major peaks in the Gangotri glacier complex with safety and success in the recent past. They include Shivling, Janhukot, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Thelu, Koteswar. It will not be entirely out of context if I mention that, we have been on other peaks of Indian Himalaya, such as Kamet, Trisul, and Nanda Devi East as well; just to  make a point that we know what we are doing. See link for a brief report on our success on Nanda Devi East: https://www.himalayanclub.org/news/nanda-devi-east-expedition-2014/ In Satopanth 2016, we offer base camp support only services. Full climbing support can be extended on request and terms and conditions will apply. Drop us an email for costs, info and joining instructions. Email to: adventuremania@yahoo.co.in

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A Little History of Some Big Peaks: the 3rd Sujal Memorial Lecture

It gives us immense pleasure to announce that the 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture will be held in Kolkata on 19th December, 2015. We are pleased to be able to continue our effort on bringing in an academic environment to the widely popular field of Himalayan mountaineering and trekking in Kolkata, West Bengal. We want to encourage our fellow mountain travelers to approach the high Himalaya not only with courage, but also with knowledge and humility.The Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture series is therefore an instrument through which we want to achieve this goal.

Dr. George W Rodway during one of his expeditions of Mt. Everest

We are indeed honored to have Dr. George W Rodway as our guest speaker for the 3rd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture. The title of his talk is : " A Little History of Some Big Peaks: The Saga of Medical Science associated with the Struggle for the Heights "

George W. Rodway, PhD, b. 3 March 1959, represents a combination of scientific researcher, mountaineer, science writer and speaker. An Associate Clinical Professor at the University of California, Davis (USA), his academic work focuses on the cardiopulmonary response to hypoxia, and it has on occasion presented him with the opportunity to climb mountains with scientific intent. Field investigations carried out with colleagues at the University College London on Cho Oyu in 2005 and Everest in 2007 are good examples of this. Climbing the mountain was one of the objectives of these research trips, but the primary intent was to perform a series of novel, yet practical physiological and medical studies that threw new light on how people adapt, and at times fail to adapt, to extreme terrestrial altitudes. 

Prof. Dr. George W Rodway

 An active mountaineer since the late 1970s, his scientific interest in high altitude began with the seasons he spent working as a medic on high altitude ranger patrols for the US National Park Service on Denali (Mt. McKinley, 6194m) in Alaska. Other than many climbs of Denali, he has decades of mountain experiences throughout Canada, Mexico, Europe, and the contiguous 48 states of the US. He started climbing in the Himalaya in 1987 and has become a regular visitor to the Himalayan countries. Although slowing down a bit due to the passage of the years, his interest in the high Himalaya continues unabated with an ascent of the north ridge of Everest in 2011 and co-leader of the successful Indian-American climb of Nanda Devi East in 2014. 

His interest in the history of science, especially as it concerns high altitude mountaineering, has given rise to many books and articles, including the soon-to-appear textbook he has edited, Mountain Medicine and Technical Rescue. He is the mountain medicine section editor for the journal Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, and is Co-Director of the USA Diploma of Mountain Medicine. He serves international organizations as well, as an Executive Board member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine and, additionally, as Vice President of the Medical Commission of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA).

Last but not least, he is a Life Member of the Himalayan Club, and a member of both the (UK) Alpine Club and American Alpine Club.

We will post further details of the event on this page with latest updates in October 2015. Till then, please be kind, do spread the word and try to attend the lecture with your friends if you are in Kolkata on 18th December, 2015.

CampII with Peak Jongsong as the backdrop. Kellas Peak Exploratory Expedition 2009

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Mountaineering Expeditions Across the Indian Himalaya

Welcome to Adventure Mania.

Climber stops to look at the highest unclimbed peak on the Vishnugarh Dhar during the first ascent of Shanti Peak. Panpatia Glacier, May, 2008 Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

Led by Anindya Mukherjee, we are a very small, local outfit that works mostly in the Indian Himalaya. We are a passionate group of climbers and explorers. We have climbed together for over a decade now and have led and organized over 35 Himalayan Expeditions to notable and major peaks. Our motto has been Safety first, Summit second. But that is not all we do. We organize treks of different grades too.

Adventure Mania team on top of Kuari Pass, October 2010 Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

Over the years, we have climbed in the ranges of Ladakh, Zanskar, Lahoul, Spiti, Garhwal, Kumaun and Sikkim. We have been to many famous mountains such as Shivling, Kamet, Satopanth, Bhagirathi, Trisul, Nanda Ghunti, Nanda Devi East and Manirang.

Bhagirathi group of peaks while approaching Bhujbas. File shot from Satopanth Expedition 2011. Photo: Martin Mucke

It would not be entirely out of place if we mention our recent success on Nanda Devi East (7434m). One can read about two successive trips to Nanda Devi East in the following links: http://nanda-devi-east.blogspot.in/ and http://nandadevi2014.blogspot.in/2014/07/brief-outline-report-of-indo-american.html

High on the south ridge of Nanda Devi East. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

But our real strength ( and passion) lies in exploratory climbing. We have led and organized many exploratory expeditions in the past years. Some of them are Kellas Peak expedition (2009) in remote North Sikkim, Panpatia Glacier Expedition (2008) in Garhwal, Singekang Expedition (2010) in Spiti, Tongshyong glacier Expedition (2014), Rock Needles Expedition (2014) in Sikkim, resulting in many first ascents and rewarding observations. Read one of our recent explorations here: https://www.himalayanclub.org/blog/the-exploration-of-zumthul-phuk/

Our Camp 2 and Jongsong Peak's North East flanks. Kellas Peak Expedition 2009. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

When we are not taking small groups to our mountains, we spend time in exploring and reconnoitering the complex ranges of Indian Himalaya ourselves. And in the process we have been able to discover and make first ascents of Deotoli Col (September 2011) on the outer rim of the fabled Nanda Devi sanctuary, made first ascent of the Zemu Gap (December 2011), made first ever footsteps on the South Simvu glacier (May 2014). re discovered Zumthul Phuk glacier (November 2014).

Looking at Changabang, Kalanka and the Rhamani glacier from Deotoli Col, September 201. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

At Adventure Mania, we approach the high Himalaya with knowledge, courage and experience. We like to work with small groups to leave minimal environmental and debris in the mountains. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have a mountain in your mind that you would like to climb with us. Leave a comment. We will get back to you.

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Inspire yourself: Book a talk with Anindya Mukherjee

Anindya Mukherjee 'Raja' has been exploring, climbing, mountaineering, pioneering across the Indian Himalaya for more than a decade now. He has led and organized more than 30 Himalayan expeditions so far. His passion lies in exploring little or unknown valleys and glaciers of the Himalaya. He is the first recipient of the prestigious 'Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering' from the Himalayan Club for his ascent of Zemu Gap. You can read about Anindya here: http://raja-anindyamukherjee.blogspot.in/ Anindya is known for his sense of humour, knowledge and an in depth analytic approach towards his subject. He has delivered talks and slide shows in events organized by Globetrotters Club London, Mountaineering Ireland, University of Michigan, Himalayan Club Mumbai, Himalayan Club Kolkata, Indian Institute of Social and Business Management, National Institute of Biomedical Genomics, and Indian Mountaineering Foundation. He can be booked for the following Illustrated Talks which are based on his adventures and experiences. All the following talks have an average duration of 60 minutes. They are power point presentations. For more information on the talks and on how you can book a talk email Anindya Mukherjee directly: anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

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The 2nd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture-A Short Report

It was the evening of 21st November, 2014, and the Swami Vivekananda Auditorium of the State Youth Centre in Kolkata, was full. Mountain lovers of Kolkata had gathered once again for the Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture. This lecture, the second in its series, proved once again that the real spirit of mountaineering and the love of the great outdoors; rise beyond the barriers and boundaries of clubs, associations at ease. It is in such rare occasions, people get-together spontaneously, and celebrates the ‘freedom of the hills’.  It is during such rare meets we are reassured of the fact that the spirit of mountaineer Sujal Mukherjee (1932-1994) has not yet been completely washed away by the recent tsunami waves of ‘High Altitude Package Tourism’ and its glorious celebration in the popular media !

Dr. Kallol Das, welcomed all to the evening and said a few words about Sujal Mukherjee, his beloved teacher 'SujalDa' and as he saw him.

After the welcome address, Anindya Mukherjee introduced and invited Ursula McPherson, the current President of Mountaineering Ireland, to come on stage and address the audience.

Ursula McPherson, a seasoned mountaineer and an all-round adventurist, spoke about her experience in the Himalaya and mentioned especially of the warmth and welcoming nature of the people she came across.

Rajesh Gadgil, Hony. Editor of the Himalayan Journal felicitated Ursula McPherson. 

Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya spoke of the current sad trends of 'tourist mountaineering' and 'ego ascents' in West Bengal and reminded the audience of the relevance and importance of Sujal Mukherjee's spirit today. Dr. Bhattacharya then introduced our guest speaker Alan Tees and invited him on stage.

We were extremely lucky to have Alan Tees as the guest speaker this evening. Alan Tees, former President of Mountaineering Ireland, is a keen rock and ice climber. A complete mountaineer and an adventure lover in true sense.

The title of Alan’s talk this evening was ‘Ireland and Irish Mountaineers’.  In his talk Alan Tees covered the history of Irish Mountaineering and their contribution to the sport.  While at the same time, he pointed out the various climbing opportunities and mountaineering related activities available to a climber based in Ireland today. He took the audience on a fascinating journey from Scottish winter climbs to the cliffs of Norway; from the sea stacks of Northern Ireland to the Himalaya. It was truly an inspiring lecture!

Hon'ble Justice Sri Biswanath Somadder of the High Court of Kolkata felicitated Alan Tees after the 2nd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture.

As a real surprise gift to this evening, Rajesh Gadgil, Hony. Editor of The Himalayan Journal, did an audio-visual presentation on their recent exploratory expedition in Rassa Glacier region in the Eastern Karakoram. It was truly a great culmination point for an inspiring evening. 

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Second Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture

Encouraged by an excellent welcoming response from the mountain lovers of Kolkata during the Inaugural Lecture, the students of Sujal are happy to announce the date and Guest Speaker of the second Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture. It will be held in Kolkata on 21st November, 2014. 

Alan Tees Climbing Photo: Gareth McCormack

We are honored to have distinguished Irish mountaineer, rock and ice climber Alan Tees as our guest speaker this time. The title of his talk is " Ireland and Irish Mountaineers". The summary of Alan's talk is quoted below:

"In the Golden Age of mountaineering, only the wealthy had the time and resources to visit the Alps or Greater Ranges. Nowadays, with the advent of cheap flights and more leisure time, the ordinary mountaineer based in Ireland can take advantage of a host of opportunities, including winter climbing in Scotland/Norway, summer in the Alps, occasional big trips to the Himalaya, and of course there is always stuff to do at home!"

We are confident that like the inaugural event, this evening of the 2nd Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture, is going to be full of visual splendor and inspiring tales.

Here is link to the Inaugural Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture: 

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.in/2014/03/the-inaugural-sujal-mukherjee-memorial_14.html

Entry is free and will be open to all. 

Venue: 

Swami Vivekananda Auditorium, State Youth Centre, Moulali, 142/3, A.J.C. Bose Road, Kolkata- 14

Time: 5.30 pm

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South Simvu: Kanchenjunga’s last kept Secret

South Simvu: Kanchenjunga’s last kept Secret

Text & Photographs: Anindya Mukherjee

“Maps, if caviare[1] to the general, are, as Louis Stevenson has insisted, very suggestive to persons with proper imagination.” - Douglas Freshfield, Round Kangchenjunga, p-20

Story of maps and an invisible glacier

For the last few years I have been trying to explore the valleys and glaciers of the south-eastern flanks of Kangchenjunga. To be a bit more specific, my explorations were focused on the little or completely unknown glaciers like Talung, Tongshyong ,South Simvu glaciers and the valley system created by their rivers ( Rukel-Rongyoung or Talung Chu) emanating from them. 

From the south summit of Kangchenjunga (8476m) a high ridge extends east separating the Zemu glacier valley on the north from South Simvu, Tongshyong and Talung glaciers to the south. These three glaciers form the head of the Talung Basin. Although both Tongshyong and Talung glaciers have been visited by explorers (Talung, for the first time in 1890 by J. Claude White and Tongshyong in 1920 by Harold Raeburn) before; one glacier remained completely unknown- the South Simvu Glacier.

Figure 1 John Claude White's map of Sikkim and Bhutan (published by RGS 1910) shows Talung, Tongshyong and Passanram glaciers

How come a whole glacier in the close vicinity of the mighty Kangchenjunga stood unnoticed this long is a fascinating story! I can accept and fully understand its oversight by the explorers of early 1900s. The lack of a detailed map is always a major hindrance for the exploring kind. But in this curious case of South Simvu glacier, it was simply not there!  Col. Waugh’s map of 1848 and Sir Joseph Hooker’s map of 1849 (and subsequently of 1854) naturally did not have any detail of the Talung valley as no one had ventured there yet. John Claude White’s crossing of the Guicha la and subsequent journey down the Talung Chu gorge in 1890 resulted in another map (The Geographical Journal 1910. Figure- 1). This map brought a new light. Talung and Tongshyong glaciers got noticed here for the very first time. But the most significant work of cartography happened with Douglas Freshfield’s ‘high level tour’ of the Kangchenjunga in 1899. Freshfield was accompanied by cartographer Prof. E.J. Garwood. Professor Garwood’s map was very close to being perfect in reference to the other glaciers in the same valley, namely Talung, Tongshyong, and even Passanram glaciers. But there was no sign of South Simvu. The cause of the invisibility of the glacier in Garwood’s map is self explanatory today, when one reads Prof. Garwood’s comments on how he had drawn this particular section in his map, “ ...in the case of heads of the glens under Si-imvovonchum and Siniolchum, from sketches made by Mr. Freshfield from above Gantok.”[2]It is quite obvious that any map of a jagged terrain of Himalayan scale, drawn with inputs from observations made from as far as (and as low) Gangtok surely cannot be without errors.

Figure 2 Prof E. J. Garwood's map shows Talung, Tongshyong and Passanram glaciers but no South Simvu

Interestingly, this glacier did not appear in the knowledge base until the recent mappings done by the Swiss (Sikkim Himalaya map of 1951). This was later incorporated by the American Army Corps of Engineers map of 1955.  However, a very clear depiction of Upper Talung region, especially of South Simvu that drew my attention most is Tadashi Toyoshima’s map of 1977. In all my expeditions in Sikkim Himalaya so far, I have used Toyoshima’s map for preliminary planning and found it to be very accurate despite this map not being a topographical one.

The Protagonists

J. Claude White’s journey through the Talung gorge and Freshfield’s epic tour around Kangchenjunga opened doors for exploring mountaineers. Starting from Harold Raeburn (1920) to H.W.Tilman (1938), the visitors of upper Talung valley had a few distinct, yet limited objective- climbing. Mount Pandim (6691m), the Zemu Gap (5861m) and the Kangchenjunga remained their centre of attraction. Everything else around was overshadowed. Once they were done with their efforts and attempts, they did not have enough time or energy to stay back and look around in this inhospitable part of remote Sikkim. The only significant exploratory trip in the Raeburn-Tilman era (1920-1938) was taken by a small team of Paul Bauer’s party (1937). They crossed the great East Ridge from north (Zemu Glacier) and entered the middle Talung Valley via a col located at the head of Passanram glacier. While doing their crossing in October 1937, they in all probability could not have noticed the existence of South Simvu glacier as ‘their’ col never gave them the optimal and strategic elevation to have a sneak peek on what lay immediately south of the Simvu twins.

This era was followed by a complete absence of exploratory action in this valley till 1975 and the second phase of exploratory action began. But this second phase concentrated on what their predecessors left unfinished and a series of onslaught on Zemu Gap started. Thus, in spite of being visible from the 1950s, South Simvu remained unnoticed till our visit in May 2014[3]. As a mountain explorer from heart myself, I looked at this blank in the map as a loadstone sending out strong vibrations of invitation.

Figure 3 Tadashi Toyoshima's map of 1977

Exploration of South Simvu

In April-May 2014, I was part of an expedition (Alberto Peruffo) that aimed to explore the Tongshyong glacier and Talung glaciers further. While my colleagues were busy and happy looking at the possibilities of countless new routes all around, I decided to head off in the direction of the last unexplored glacier of the Talung Valley; the South Simvu. Our base camp was near the confluence of Talung and Tongshyong streams, almost in the same camping ground as our Zemu Gap expedition of December 2011.

Figure 4 the junction of Talung and Tonshyong Chu. Base camp tents are visible. Pandim's north face in the background

From the observations made during my previous three expeditions in 2011, I had formed a fair idea on how to approach the South Simvu glacier, which like Tongshyong lay completely out of sight from the Talung gorge. Signs, such as old, settled moraine ridges and a powerful stream coming from the direction of Mount Simvu, suggested strongly of a glacial existence. But, it was not visible. We assumed it has withdrawn its reaches higher up to a shelf and has become a hanging glacier. Old terminal and lateral moraines, braided outwash stream; all suggested the classic case of a cirque glacier in our disposal here. Signs were abound to argue in favour of its retreat from a previously greater extension. How and when did South Simvu retreat? Well, this can only be diagnosed by a glaciologist but, my thought was that, as a climbing problem, a cirque or hanging glacier often offers a more severe challenge than that of a valley glacier? What will this one throw at us?

On 3 May, 2014, along with Thendup Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, I left base camp and kept following the steep right lateral moraine coming down from the direction of South Simvu. After a continuous climb of 5 hours we reached a big, slightly overhanging rock cliff. Interestingly, during the entire days of April-May 2014, the whole of upper Talung valley engulfed itself in thick fog latest by 9 in the morning. This pattern of early white-out lasted for nearly 4 weeks of our stay inside the gorge. The same thing happened on that day as well, allowing us no chance for a better visibility. Later in the day, we took shelter below that overhang cliff.

For the next two days we did reconnaissance trips further up the valley hoping for a clearer day. Finally one morning, before the clouds came up rushing, we saw the outline of an icefall that announced South Simvu’s presence. To the delight of our exploratory mind, we saw the twin summits of Simvu rising above the icefall. This re-affirmed our motivation and on 6 May, 2014, myself and Thendup Sherpa left our overhang shelter hoping to cross the first ice fall obstacle and set up a high camp. An easy snow gully to the true right of the icefall gave us access to the upper plateau of the glacier. Due to poor visibility and bad snow conditions it took us nearly 7 hours to reach the neve of the glacier. We pushed on and camped at around 5300m.

An attempt on peak 6350m

From the Swiss contour map I had in my disposal, I was aware of the existence of two unnamed 6000m peaks close to me somewhere. Peak 6350m and Peak 6130m are located on the ridge running south east, dividing Tongshyong and South Simvu glaciers. Now that we have actually entered the South Simvu, my immediate attention was drawn towards those unclimbed 6000m peaks. But, due to poor visibility, we got no bearings on our position that entire day (6 May, 2014) and waited patiently for the early hours of the next morning, when we thought, would be able to orient ourselves.

Figure 5 view of Siniolchu over the 5215m unnamed col. the rock needles on the watershed between Passanram and Jumthul Phuk glaciers also visible on immediate right of col. Photo taken from our high point on peak 6350m

7 May, 2014. We woke up to great expectations! Today, we will see and document a glacier that was never seen before! We felt fortunate and a bit proud to be the first! Thankfully, we were not disappointed with the view that morning. To our north Simvu twins (6812m-West and 6811m-East) looked gigantesque and dominated the skyline. To our NNE, after a stretch of a snow field full of crecentric crevasses, we could clearly see a col (5215m) a bit lower than our campsite sharply dropping to the Passanram (also referred to as Umaram Kang glacier in some maps) side. Above and beyond that 5215m col rose Siniolchu (6887m) in all its grandeur.  To our east, right across the glacier (to the south of 5215m col) rock peaks 5666m and Lhokamburichi ( 5495m) formed the boundary wall between South Simvu and Passanram glaciers. Looking at the unmistakable thumb like feature of Lhokamburichi, I realised that this is the ridge that one can see from lower Talung valley while looking at Simvu. This is the ridge that completely hides South Simvu glacier from its east and south east. This is the reason it never came out in the sketches made by Freshfield from above Gangtok!

Figure 6  Kangchenjunga in the background. Zemu Peak in the centre. The ridge in centre foreground is the lhokamburichi ridge that guards South Simvu glacier.

Figure 7 Lhokamburichi as seen from South Simvu glacier

To our South we could see Narsing (5825m); Jopuno (5936m) group of peaks, Pandim (6691m) and to our immediate NW stood the two unnamed peaks 6350m and 6130m respectively.  Without wasting much time Thendup and I roped up and started towards the nearest objective from our campsite, peak 6350m.

Figure 8  the false summit of peak 6130m on the left and Simvu west on the right

Within next 4 hours we climbed through a narrow gully to the east of peak 6130m and reached the base of the false summit rock pyramid of peak 6130m. We were just a roped up party of two and it did not take us long to decide that we were not bagging any peaks that day. To climb the rock pyramid would need protection, which none of us were carrying in our lightweight push. When we left base camp, the highest we were hoping to achieve was to find and reach the right glacier. And when we reached the glacier, we took our ambition a level higher, to climb an unclimbed 6000m! Such is the human nature.

We were close to 6000m and our high point worked as a perfect vantage point for exploratory photo documentation and so I told myself to be happy with what achieved and retreat. From our high point we could photograph some extra ordinary views of the head of South Simvu glacier, Simvu twins, Siniolchu and even its rock needles over the Passanram valley. It was nearly midday, and snow conditions got worse than ever. Thendup and I have been climbing together nearly a decade now and hence trusted in each other’s belay. We reached camp in complete whiteout. Packed up heavy next morning and happily started down towards base camp.

South Simvu glacier is not invisible anymore.

Figure 9 view of Siniolchu from our high camp in the South Simvu glacier

Team: Anindya Mukherjee, Thendup Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa

Time: May 2014

Summary: Exploration of South Simvu glacier in Sikkim Himalaya

Post script: Following our visit, my Italian expedition partners went into South Simvu glacier in a more prepared manner. The Italian group led by Alberto Peruffo reached the col 5215m and climbed peak 5666m. They also climbed the ridge between Simvu and Peak 6350m, new col of 6036m, crossing the glacier in all directions,  For more details of the Italian Exploratory Expedition visit the following links:http://altitudini.it/stiamo-tornando-cantando-ultimo-dispaccio-dal-kanchenzonga/ http://www.k2014.it/

[1]Spelling unchanged

[2]  Freshfield, Round Kangchenjunga, page-304

[3]  Refer to HJ Vol. 68, page-37 for a list of exploratory activity in the Talung Valley

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Nanda Devi East Expedition 2014: Brief Outline Report

A very brief outline report on our expedition to Nanda Devi East (7434m), 2014 has been published in a separate blog:  http://nandadevi2014.blogspot.in/2014/07/brief-outline-report-of-indo-american.html?spref=tw News of our climb has been published in the Polish Mountaineering Association website. Link below: http://www.pza.org.pl/news.acs?id=2650885

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The Inaugural Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture 2014

Sujal Mukherjee (1932-1994) belonged to the first generation mountaineers of West Bengal. He started to trek in the Garwal and Kumaun Himalaya in 1961 and undertook his Basic and Advance Mountaineering Courses in HMI in the years 1964 and 1965. Since his introduction to the Indian Himalaya he remained an active alpinist and a keen rock climber. In the 1980’s, Sujal played a pivotal role in the camping and nature study movement of West Bengal. 

Sujal Mukherjee 1932-1994

Inspired by Sujal’s humble, yet dedicated and academic approach to the outdoors and to carry on his legacy; some of his students of rock climbing got together to organize an annual lecture in his memory. Thus, ‘The Inaugural Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture’ was born. The theme of this year’s lecture series was ‘Exploring the Indian Himalaya’ and was held on 8thMarch, 2014, at Rotary Sadan, Kolkata.

a section of audience engrossed in the inspiring talks

The distinguished guests to present their talks this evening were Sri Harish Kapadia, Sri Rajesh Gadgil and Sri Divyesh Muni. Every last seat of the auditorium at the Rotary Sadan, Kolkata, was occupied with great enthusiasm and interest. The audience was a curious mix of veteran climbers to would be alpinists and they were not disappointed. Dr. Kallol Das, one of Sujal's beloved student, delivered the welcome address.

Dr. Kallol Das addressing the audience with a warm welcome

The first speaker to address the audience was Sri Harish Kapadia. The title of Sri Kapadia’s talk was “Arunachal Forever". In his talk Sri Kapadia covered Arunachal Pradesh’s turbulent history of the war with China, McMahon Line saga, people and ancient pilgrim trails, historical explorations, high unclimbed peaks, trails to Burma via Chaukan Pass and Pangsu pass, flying the Burma Hump and Lake of No Return, Second World War in Burma and Arunachal Pradesh, and the Journey and exploration of the Brahmaputra river. This talk was based on Sri Kapadia’s nine trips to inner Arunachal Pradesh.

Sri Harish Kapadia delivers his talk "Arunachal Forever"

Sri Rajesh Gadgil was the second speaker this evening. Sri Gadgil’s talk was titled ‘Wanderings on the Unbroken Trails’. “Wanderings on the Unbroken Trails” included some of Sri Rajesh Gadgil’s climbs and explorations in the Himalaya with particular references to his expeditions to Zanskar, Garhwal, Kumaon, Spiti, Ladakh and the Eastern Karakoram.

Anindya Mukherjee introducing Sri Rajesh Gadgil for his talk

Sri Rajesh Gadgil delivering his talk "Wanderings on the Unbroken Trails"

Sri Divyesh MuniSrimati“First Ascent of Chamsen (7017m)”.  It is a spectacular, thrilling and inspiring documentary movie shot during Sri Divyesh Muni and his team’s ascent of Chamsen 7017m.

Apart from the talks, the organizers felicitated Sri Thendup Sherpa for his outstanding contribution to Himalayan expeditions in recent years.

Sri Divyesh and Vineeta Muni on stage before presenting their expedition movie "First Ascent of Chamsen 7017m

Anindya Mukherjee, co- host of the Inaugural Sujal Mukherjee Memorial Lecture presented vote of thanks.  The organizers are grateful to the group of friends and followers of Sujal for supporting this event and extending their valuable help. But a special mention must go to Hon'ble Justice Biswanath Somadder, Sri Arindam Mukherjee, Dr. Rupak Bhattacharya. Without their support this event would not have been this successful. 

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Adventure Mania 2013

The year 2013, for us at Adventure Mania were very special. Like every year for the past 12 years we spent many months in the mountains of the Indian Himalaya. 

Our journey this year started with a lightweight, semi-alpine style attempt on the forbidding Nanda Devi East (7434m). The report of our trip to NDE can be found here: http://nanda-devi-east.blogspot.in/

our Advance Base Camp on Nanda Devi East Expedition

Alok Das on the south ridge of Nanda Devi East, May 2013

After Nanda Devi, Adventure Mania team drove to Joshimath in June to provide a professionally serviced expedition to Trisul West face. Unfortunately, we were trapped in our camp II on the Ronti glacier as the infamous cloudburst and subsequent flooding of Uttarakhand happened. Our gear and food were all buried under fresh powder and our proposed route went totally beyond safe conditions. Reluctantly, we had to abandon this attempt. Gear-less and out of food,the two Adventure Mania guides, Thendup Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee, made an ascent of south summit (6014m) of Ronti (6063m) in a one day dash.

You can read a media report here:

 http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2013-06-24/others/40165831_1_mount-trishul-expedition-indian-mountaineer

stuck for 6 days on the medial moraine of Ronti glacier, June 2013

the last obstacles of Ronti's south summit, June 2013

Next month, right after our Trisul ordeal, we traveled all the way from Garwal to Zanskar Himalaya. Our team worked in close collaboration with an international expedition to climb Hagshu-I (6515m). The team did a fantastic job by nearly climbing Hagshu-I and making two first ascents. Read about their expedition here: http://theadventureblog.blogspot.in/2013/09/dedicated-everyman-puts-up-two-first.html

Hagshu massif July 2013

In August- September, Adventure Mania team started working with a big team from the King's College London, in the Karcha Nala, Lahoul Himalaya. The goal of this trip was conducting research on various aspects of Acute Mountain Sickness. 

KCL wilderness medicine society team resting high up the Karcha Valley, August, 2013

Then in October, we were back in West Sikkim. This time with a group from Italian Alpine Club in collaboration with my friend Alberto Peruffo. The aim of this trek was to do a survey of the Talung and Tongshyong glaciers with an eye to future expedition potential.

a sunny breakfast in Dzongri, October 2013

team approaching Thangsing valley with Tinchinkhang and Jopuno peaks as backdrop, October 2013

Now, with 2013, nearing its end, we look forward to 2014 for more adventures and mountains.