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Speed Camera Behaviours: Mechanism or Myth

You’re sitting in your car, driving along. A flash goes off. You instantly know what it means as you quickly glance down to the speedometer. You know an automatic letter is winging its way out to you in the post. Could be a fine, points on your license. Or worse a court date.

Speed cameras are put in place to ensure drivers stick to the required speed limit. Drivers that go too fast are dangerous, as reaction times are reduced. However, there are many misconceptions about how these cameras work. So what is fact and what is firmly fantasy?

The Myths

These are some of the common stories you may have heard, concerning the behaviour of speed cameras, and in some instances, how they react to your driving. Are they mechanism of the camera, or simply urban myths? 

A speed camera is always on…

According to freedom of information disclosures in the UK, there is a fair proportion of speed cameras that are actually turned off at any time. However, this doesn’t mean that there’s any way you can tell which ones are active – meaning that even a powerless speed camera should act as a deterrent.

Only yellow speed cameras are legal

Unfortunately this one is false. Grey cameras are equally entitled to snap you and send out a fine as a yellow camera. Even though the government has made noises about painting all the cameras yellow.

Average speed cameras don’t actually work

In fact quite the opposite. Average speed cameras have proven to be more effective than standard speed cameras, as they track and monitor individual vehicles. Drivers are prevented from slowing down simply for the camera and speeding back up again immediately afterward.

There must be a flash…

Yes, the most common speed camera (often called the Gatso from Gatsometer BV camera) does like to flash when you’ve been caught speeding. This is not true of all cameras. But if you have been flashed, you are probably dealing with a Gatso, and there’s a good chance a letter is on it’s way to your registered

Speed cameras are a ‘nice little earner’

Some motorists claim that speed cameras are part of some kind of administrative war on drivers. There are even claims that local councils use cameras as a cash generator. However, the facts speaks for themselves. Speed is a contributing factor in over 25% of crashes. Travel faster and you’re not only more likely to crash, but your impact is more likely to prove fatal to your or other drivers.

Only from one side of the road

OK this one is a little bit trickier. Fixed speed cameras may only be pointed at one side of the road. This is not guaranteed however and should not be taken for granted. Mobile speed testing units are another matter entirely and radar guns are going to get you – no matter which direction you’re travelling in.

Only speed… Not smartphones

It used to be true that speed cameras were only focused on your speed. Older versions could not tell if you were misbehaving behind the wheel. 2019 changed all that with the introduction of yellow vulture cameras that are able to spot smoking, eating and smartphone use – as well as even telling whether you’re using a seatbelt. They work at night and hopefully will cut down smartphone use behind the wheel.

10% and then some…

There’s a story that speed cameras only clock you if you’re travelling in excess of your speed plus 10% of your speed, plus 2 mph. There have been noises from the police that they will only seek prosecutions from drivers travelling faster than this buffer. It doesn’t however mean that you can legally break the speed limit, and prosecuting such crimes is down to the police and the CPS. Don’t take it for granted.

Beat the shutter speed

You have to be a little on the wild side to believe this one. You may have heard the theory that if you travel fast enough the camera won’t be able to clock you and you can get through scot-free. Don’t try this yourself as you’ll be looking at not only a fine, but perhaps even a ban for exceeding the upper safe limits according the area you’re in.

Horses and bikes are exempt

It’s true. Current camera technology is unable to track horses and bikes. Which may be a little disappointing to some readers who have to deal with a few Lycra louts behaving as they see fit on the road.

Time to ticket

You may have heard that if you’re caught by a camera, you must receive a ticket within a reasonable notice window for it to be valid. This is absolutely true. The ticket issuing authority must send you a notice of prosecution (NIP) within 14 days for it to be considered valid.

Speed courses

Are not a right. You may be allowed to take one if you are caught speeding by a camera, but don’t take it as a given. It’s down to the prosecuting authorities. And entirely at their discretion.

You can retake speed courses

Yes you can. As long as it’s been more than 3 years since you last took one. And again, it’s at the discretion of the local police authority. Don’t count on it and don’t use it as a get out of jail for half price card.

Insurance declarations

There is a myth that you don’t have to declare that you’ve been on a speed awareness course to your insurer. Well, of course you don’t. If you want your premium to be declared invalid when the insurer does find out (like when you’re claiming for an accident and you need to be paid out).

And Finally

Now that you’ve sped through this article, it’s important to remember that speed is not a game of cat and mouse with the authorities and their cameras. Remember that speed really does kill. Hitting someone at 40 miles an hour is likely to be fatal. The same collision at 20mph is not only less likely to occur in the first place, but also less likely to injure.

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Parking on Double Yellows – Without Breaking the Law…

Sometimes you need to park on double yellow lines. Think this is always illegal? Think again. Most of the time you’ll find a ticket slapped on your car by a parking warden, giving you an automatic fine. However, there are some instances where parking on double yellows is actually allowed. Knowing your rights, can help you find a parking space when it’s difficult – or in an emergency – or even prevent you from having to pay a fine. So what is the actual law?

Penalties for Double Yellow Parking

Park on a double yellow line without a good reason, and you can expect to get a fine. Because parking is under the jurisdiction of local authorities, there is no UK national standard for fines. However, most adhere to the same policies. Infringe on the parking rules, and you’ll be looking at a standard £70 fine, which will be reduced by 50% if you pay it in under 14 days.

Legal Speak – What do Different Lines Mean?

You’ll find several different types of lines next the pavement. Each one gives drivers different information appertaining to the parking regulations for the road. These are as follows:

Double white lines – no parking. However, cars may stop briefly to drop off or pick up passengers for the vehicle.

Single yellow lines – check the signposted times. You’re only prohibited from parking on single yellows during set intervals – outside of these times, it’s perfectly legal to park on these street markings.

Double red lines – normally only found in larger cities, such as on London’s north circular. The meaning is simple. No parking at any time.

Single red lines – are similar to single yellow lines. Check signage to find the parking rules.

Double yellow lines – no parking at any times. Expect for special circumstances, which we’ll go on to explore…

Why do we have Yellow Lines?

We have Ernest Marples, Minister of Transport from 1959 to 1964, to thank for the implementation of the double yellow lines that are now familiar to all motorists. This legislation was introduced under the Road Traffic Act in 1960, which also introduced MOT tests and traffic wardens. These road markings were created to quickly and effectively show motorists where they could and couldn’t park at a glance.

And When is it OK to Park on Double Yellows?

As we’ve mentioned, there are certain cases when the no parking side of the double yellow lines simply doesn’t apply as you’d expect. These are those situations:

At Fixed Times

Check the signage nearby. If there are zonal or seasonal restrictions, it may be the case that you can park when these do not apply. Look for time plates or zone entry signs that should give you all the details you need to know. Of course, if you cannot see any of these signs, then you need to assume that the zone is a 24/7 restricted parking zone, and you’ll be looking at a fine if you contravene these regulations.

Brief Pick Ups and Unloading

There are strict rules concerning dropping off goods from transport vehicles. Light loads are allowed to stop on the double yellows for a maximum of 20 minutes – a window that’s extended to 40 minutes for heavy goods vehicles. If you do decide to take advantage of this law, then be prepared to prove to an overzealous warden that you couldn’t park nearby, and carry the goods manually. And do remember, that you must also adhere to any specific zonal regulations or kerb dashes.

Blue Badge Holders

If you have a blue badge, then you’re permitted under the standard UK law to park for a maximum of 3 hours on double yellow lines. However, you must have the badge displayed, alongside the time you arrived, or you could be fined as a normal driver. Additionally, there are certain areas and zones, where even blue badge holders cannot park on double yellows or obstruct other thoroughfares – so make sure you do the appropriate checks.

Passenger Collection and Dropping Off

You can’t wait at the kerb, nor can you dawdle around whilst your passengers find their belongings, but under UK road law, you are allowed to drop someone off, or pick them up on double yellow lines. Make sure you’re fast though, as contravening this law or pushing the legislation to its limit could be interpreted as parking, which will end up getting you slapped with a ticket.

Obstruction of Information

This one is quite tenuous and we wouldn’t recommend relying on it – but if the lines are obscured, for instance by flood waters or heavy snow, and the signage is missing, then you may have a case to claim that you couldn’t tell that you were parking in a double yellow restricted zone. Be prepared to put up a fight, and expect some resistance if you are fined.

Sundays and Bank Holiday Exceptions

There are those that claim you can park on double yellows on those long, slow bank holiday weekends. Others will tell you Sundays are another time when you are free to do as you please. However, truth of the matter is that both statements are false.  There may have been a time when wardens were so thin on the ground that you could get away with it – but we wouldn’t bank on it now.

Rules for Urban Clearways

Urban clearways are sections of road – usually on busy roads, without markings other than at the entry and exit points – where it is actually illegal to park, unless there’s an emergency. There will normally be information regarding the operational times of the clearway on the entrance signs. You are however allowed a small amount of grace time to pick up and drop off passengers as with standard yellow lines.

And Finally

Many parking dilemmas can be avoided by planning ahead, booking and arriving early. If you know you’re going to have to make a trip somewhere, check out the parking, find availability and if the area is congested – remember with the internet has an answer with rented parking spaces. Yes, there will always be costs involved, but it’s often easier to pay a bit more to avoid the hassle of a fine.

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7 Signs that Your Car has Ignition Coil Problems

Have you been finding that your car won’t start in the mornings? Or perhaps when you’re out on the open road, you don’t seem to have the same levels of grunt and power as usual? One potential culprit could be your ignition coil, which helps turn the low voltage output of your battery into the little blue-white sparks that’re used to ignite the air fuel mixture in the engine.

What are the tell-tale signs that can give you an indication that the ignition coil is failing – giving you a chance to get to a mechanics, and avoid a breakdown on the open road?  

How does the Ignition Coil Work?

The ignition coil functions as part of your ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Like a kind of reverse system to the adaptor units that you might use in the home (transforming high voltages into low voltages), the coil boosts the 12V charge from your battery into a whopping 20KV to 40KV charge to ignite the petrol.

Open up the ignition coil, and you’ll find two windings around an iron core, often immersed in oil to keep the part cool. When the coil is powered up, the outer coil is flushed with charge, creating a magnetic field. This is then shut off, collapsing the field, and sending the charge to the more tightly wound inner coil, which subsequently transforms the charge into the super high voltages needed to create the sparks necessary to ignite the fuel in the pistons.

Ignition Coil Problem Signs

Be aware of the following issues. Each one could give you an indication that you’re having issues with your ignition coil. And if multiple problems occur at the same time, then whilst this will help you narrow down the cause, it’s also an indicator that you need to get the professionals in, pronto.

Stalling and Misfiring  

When the ignition coil is failing or experiencing problems, it often leads to pistons misfiring or simply not firing at all, as the charge is not delivered to ignite the petrol. If you’re noticing strange noises, accompanied by a poor response from the engine leading to jerks or vibration when idling, these can be tell-tale signs that the ignition coil is on its way out. In the worst case scenario this can lead to the car shutting down altogether, and stalling when you put your foot down on the gas.

Can’t Start the Car

If your car has only one ignition coil, then it may prevent the car from starting. If the battery is properly charged and all you seem to get when you try to turn the key or hit the button is a clicking sound, then you could be looking at a problematic ignition coil. If the spark plugs are not receiving the charge they need �� then the engine will fail to fire up properly.

Less Miles to the Gallon

If your engine is not burning fuel properly, the engine will need more fuel to do the same amount of work, leading to decreased fuel efficiency. Additionally, when your ignition coil malfunctions, it can also create disparities in the oxygen sensor, sending the engine more fuel than is actually required. Be aware that putting this unspent fuel through your engine is also incredibly bad for the associated systems, and can cause damage to the catalytic convertor, which is often a very expensive part to replace.

Check Engine Light Illuminated on the Dash

Although the check engine light can alert you to a number of different problem situations – one of these could be a faulty or broken ignition coil. In such a situation, you have a couple of choices. Either get down to a mechanic who can perform an OBD-II check, or get a scanner so that you can check the codes yourself. Codes P0300 to P0312 indicate a misfiring, which could be the result of an ignition coil problem, whilst codes P0350 to P0362 are reserved on all systems to indicate ignition coil issues.

Backfiring

As we mentioned with the fuel economy problem, a faulty ignition coil will often lead to unspent fuel entering into the exhaust system. When this fuel comes into contact with the hot metal of the exhaust or catalytic convertor, it can instantly ignite and explode, creating a back-fire – a loud noise that booms out of the back of the car. Whether or not this is caused by an ignition coil problem, you should always get the issue investigated.

Oil Leak

The huge amounts of current and charge being transformed inside the ignition coil lead to heat dissipation. When the part is functioning normally, the oil usually helps get rid of this thermal energy. If the coil is broken however, this can lead to overheating, which will eventually crack the housing and the oil will start to leak out of the part

Bad Spark Plugs

If you find that your spark plugs are faulty or worn out, then they can often draw more charge than is normally expected from the engine. This can often put too much strain on the ignition coil, damaging it over time. If you find you have spark plug problems, it’s definitely worth checking the ignition coil at the same time.

How to Avoid a Faulty Coil

Take the following precautions to keep your coil working properly and effectively:

Regular spark plugs check – as we mentioned, faulty spark plugs can cause excessive drain on the coil, which will lead to it prematurely degrading. Keep the plugs in good order to prevent this from happening.

Inspect the coil casing – to make sure there are no oil leaks and pay particular attention to the wires connecting the coil to the electrical system. These can often give an early sign of problems as they will appear toasted if there has been a current drain problem.

Regular service checks – pay attention to the manufacturer’s instructions, getting regular maintenance to ensure that your car is in good working order. 

And Finally

Like all parts in your car, the ignition coil will degrade eventually. The huge amounts of charge and current that are constantly stored and discharged through the part take their toll and replacement becomes an inevitability. With a modicum of mechanical knowledge you can change the part yourself – or get down to a professional garage.

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Don’t Ignore these 5 Symptoms of Water Pump Problems

Combustion and friction generate a tremendous amount of heat in your car’s engine. To help all that thermal energy dissipate, you need to have a continuous flow of coolant, which is powered by the water pump. When the pump suffers from a fault or failure, this can lead to overheating, poor running of the vehicle, and even put a stop to your travels on the road. And because keeping the engine cool is so important – any issues that are left unchecked can lead to total engine failure.

What does the Water Pump Do?

Originally, cars were cooled down with air running through the engine, to help conduct away the heat. As engine performance increased, this was no longer effective, leading engineers to construct the water cooling tech nearly all cars use today. It is equally as important as the oil lubrication system when it comes to protecting your engine, and uses energy from the drive belt to power the pump.

What are the Consequences of a Failed Water Pump?

If the pump fails, then this can lead to issues with the engine overheating, including damage to the central workings of the engine. You could be looking at some real problems, such as cracked cylinder heads, pushed head gaskets or even burnt pistons, as the temperature quickly skyrockets in the engine. Worst situation? Your engine could actually catch fire on the road, putting your life, and the lives of other road users in real danger.

How to tell there are Problems with Your Pump…

These following symptoms will give you an idea of the health of your pump. For the best results, act quickly on any problems as we’ve mentioned – the structural integrity and lifespan of your engine is dependent on it.

Coolant Leaks and Puddles Coming from the Front of the Car

Have you noticed coolant leaking from the water pump around the front of the car?

Cause: several rubber gaskets are used in the construction of your pump to ensure that there is a tight seal between the different components. Over time, these rubber seals can dry out, crack and deteriorate, leading to drips and leaks.

Solution: keep one eye out for tell-tale red (or brightly coloured) coolant drips and puddles at the front of the car. If you act quickly, then the leak can be repaired, and the pump unit can be saved.

Corrosion to the Pump from Rust, Debris and Air Pockets

Small leaks over time can cause deposits such as calcium in the water to build up around the pump.

Cause: contaminated coolant mixtures or even the wrong coolant can cause particle build ups or a defective pressure cap can let in excess air.

Solution: check for signs of wear on the pump, and inspect the part for small holes in the metal or cavities in the mounting surface that have resulted from the impact of air bubbles in the coolant mixture. If you discover any of these signs, then it’s time to get the part checked out by a professional.

Overheating Engine and Warped Components

Too much heat in the engine can cause problems with the coolant system.

Cause: if the pump isn’t functioning correctly, then it will fail to effectively dissipate the heat that’s coming from the engine moving and the combustion process. You will also notice irregular rising engine temperatures through your dashboard gauge. 

Solution: warped, melted, fused or just plain broken parts in the engine that are suffering from damage before the normal service intervals is a good giveaway. Normally you’re looking at problems with the internal impeller, requiring you to replace the water pump.

High Pitched, Harmonic Whining Noises

Issues with the pulley placement often manifest as a high pitched sound coming from the front of the car.

Cause: a loose pulley can create a buzzing or whining sound that’s quite high pitched as it’s pulled around by the pump. It’s usually caused by incorrect placement of the pulley, or problems with the bearings inside the pump.

 Solution: unfortunately, once the bearings in the pump are worn out, this is the end of the road for the part, and you’ll need to shop around for a replacement.

Steam Escaping from the Car’s Radiator

Steam is a sure sign that the coolant system is not effectively channelling the heat out of the engine.

Cause: as we mentioned, coolant is essential to stop the engine overheating, circulating water to the radiator, which finally loses the heat to the ambient environment. Steam coming from the engine, whilst you’re out on the open road or coming to a stop, means that the coolant is overheating to the point it is evaporating.

Solution: bring your car to a halt immediately the moment you see steam. It will help preserve the engine and prevent problems. Get on the phone to the nearest emergency mechanic, and explain all the symptoms. Because of the potential damage that overheating can cause to the engine – due to the failed pump – you’ll probably be looking at a tow to the nearest service centre.  

Prolonging the Lifespan of your Pump

Of course, if you don’t want to have to deal with failure and replacement – then taking better care of your pump is a good place to start. The following tips can help extend the part’s lifespan:

Coolant – always replace the coolant at the required service intervals, as dirt and debris can build up in the fluid, eventually damaging your pump and other parts.

Correct tension – on the belt that connects the pump to the drive system is essential. Ensure you have the recommended tension, and the belt aligns with all the connected pulleys. Any problems with tension can lead to the pump shaft, bearing and seal becoming damaged.

Overheating – get any excessive temperature problems resolved immediately. Failure to do so could result in damage to the pump’s internal workings and seals.

Buy high quality – a good pump will keep your system working for longer. Cheaper pumps may present immediate savings, but are much more likely to require earlier attention.

Replace the timing belt – at the same time you replace the pump. Problems with the old pump could have led to coolant coming into contact with the belt, and damaging the integrity of the rubber.

Replacing a Water Pump

Want to replace your own water pump? Be prepared for a tough job that’s ultimately best left to the mechanic due to the position of the part. Ideally, you’re looking at getting the pump replaced every 60K to 90K miles, and it can often be changed out at the same time as the timing belt, as accessing both parts requires the removal of the timing cover.

Of course – we’re happy to help out if you decide to complete the work yourself. Read more and arm yourself with all the facts you need to replace your water pump.

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What’s Causing those Steering Wheel Shakes?

When you’re out driving, a shaking steering wheel can be irritating. However, it can also be a great way to get an early heads up on problems with your car. Some of the most common causes are likely to be warped discs, causing shakes under breaking, or poorly balanced tyres resulting in shaking under high speed.

There are of course more serious issues with your car that can be revealed by shakes through the steering system. Which signs need a little attention, and how can you spot the serious red flags that mean you need a little hand investigating further?

Shaking When You’re Driving

Does the wheel start to vibrate when you’re out on the open road? Different situations can help you identify the causes of the shakes:

Unbalanced Tyres

Symptom: the shakes start when you reach speeds over 50mph, and become most notable around 60mph.

The cause: replaced your tyres recently? They might not have been balanced properly. Or knocks and bumps – you’ll probably remember them – have thrown the wheels out of alignment. Weights are used to balance your wheels, and shocks tend to throw them out of place or even fall off.

The remedy: inspect your wheels for missing weights, tread disparities and bent rims to confirm your suspicions.  Make sure your tyres have been balanced properly. As a rule of thumb you should be getting an alignment check every time you change your oil, or around 3k-6k miles.

Misaligned Tyres

Symptom: Car starts to pull to one side when your driving in a straight line. You might also notice that there is uneven wear to the tyre tread on either side of the car.

The cause: hitting pot holes and flying over speed bumps. Anything that’s put undue pressure or stress on the front wheels can shock them out of place. If you have recently had the car’s suspension altered, and not had an alignment check, then this could be the cause of the issue.

The remedy: an alignment check should sort things out – as with unbalanced tyres. However if this doesn’t resolve the issue, it’s worth getting your suspension inspected too.

Low Tyre Pressure

Symptom: you might notice that your car is not only experiencing steering wheel shakes, but there’s you’re also having to stop and refill the car more frequently, and your miles per gallon seems to have dropped.

The cause: low tyre pressure means that you’re tyres are no longer addressing the road in the optimal manner, costing you fuel efficiency.

The remedy: check your owner’s manual to find out the correct tyre pressure, then take your car to your local filling station where they should have a digital pump. This allows you to check the pressure and refill the tyres with compressed air, if they’re suffering from low levels.

Brake Calipers

Symptom: the shaking gets worse at high speed. You can also smell a certain kind of burning smell on the road, and the cars handling under acceleration seems diminished.

The cause: sticking calipers can be rubbing against the brake discs – although this is quite rare. It’s more likely that debris or material has been caught around the discs or pads.

The remedy: any foreign material should be easily cleared. If this doesn’t solve the issue, then take your vehicle into the garage for a check-up.

Shakes when Turning

If your vehicle is fine when addressing the straight road, but starts to vibrate and shake when you come into a bend, this could be your issue:

The symptom: you’ll notice that the shakes start when you slow down and corner. This is the least likely shaking situation you’ll experience. Noises coming from the wheel that increase in volume when accelerating, together with loose steering, may also accompany this issue.

The cause: loose wheel bearings will set off vibrations in the wheel when you’re turning the car. Over time these bearings need replacement, much like your brake pads, and must have sufficient lubrication to work properly.

The remedy: raise the vehicle and grab the tyre at the top and bottom and push it in a rocking motion. Any grinding sounds or excessive movement are signs that the bearing is damaged. Take the car to a mechanics as damaged bearings can often seize out on the open road, which could result in a dangerous situation as your front wheels lock.

Shakes when Driving Slowly

Some systems in your vehicle show issues at slower speeds – indicating problems with the suspension.

The symptom: you may only notice the steering wheel shaking when the car starts, or is only moving under very slow speeds. This could be accompanied by problems with the vehicle’s stability and a certain amount of looseness and play in the steering.

The cause: over time suspension components simply wear out and fail to cushion you from bumps and bangs.

The remedy: a simple visual inspection of the upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings should reveal whether there are any issues. You can also try the push test on the front of the car. Depress the bonnet and it should bounce back to its stationary position in roughly 1.5 bounces.

Shakes under Acceleration

In very rare situations you could find that shakes occur when you put the pedal to the metal.

The symptom: you’ll notice the steering wheel shaking any time you put your foot down – and it may get worse to the point where the whole vehicle is shaking.

The cause: issues with the engine running from air induction, fuel delivery or even inconsistent spark plug timings can cause the car to stop running smoothly, resulting in a distinct vibration coming from the engine compartment.

The remedy: if you suspect any issue with the engine, get to the mechanics immediately as this is a major red flag.

Shakes when Braking

You’ll notice these shakes when you start to apply the brakes, in order to cut your vehicle’s speed.

The symptom: you’ll notice the steering wheel shakes as soon as the brake pedal is applied, which can be worse when engaging the brakes at higher speeds. Alternatively, you could find that the shakes are occurring from the moment you start the car – which could be due to problems with the handbrake.

The cause: most vibrations will be caused by a problem with the brake disc. It could be that the disc has become warped through use and overheating, that there’s a thickness issue, or that the disc has simply run out and it’s time for a replacement.

The remedy: the last thing you want when you’re out on the open road is a brake failure. As soon as you become aware of any issue with the brakes, give them a quick inspection – this should tell you if you need new discs. And if the problem is still happening, then you can go down to the garage, to get them checked out by the pros.

And Finally As with all car issues, don’t ignore them if they start to become a regular occurrence. All cars have shakes and minor trembles now and then, but remember that early identification of a problem can often stop knock on issues. For the best results, as soon as you’re aware that something’s up – then get down to the mechanics.

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What’s that Smell? Identifying Car Problems by Odour

Many people will tell you knocking sounds are indicative of the big end going. Other screeches and scrapes can tell you about the state of your brakes or the transmission. However, smells are often an underrated method of homing in on car problems that can allow you to suss out the fact your car has a problem, before it becomes a serious issue.

Interestingly enough the mind has no olfactory memory. We can recreate sounds, tastes and even visions in our brains. But not smells. This means that smell can be a powerful, unmissable indicator of problems, and there’s usually no arguing with a whiff in the air. Especially if other passengers can detect it too. So what are the odours you need to be aware of – and more importantly, what do they mean?

Maple Syrup

You’re likely to detect this odour when the car is running or has been recently turned off.

Cause: The most likely culprit is glycol in the coolant system. This could indicate that you have a leaky radiator or radiator hose, problems with the cylinder head, intake manifold gasket, or a leak within the vehicle’s heating system. Is the smell strongest within the interior of the car? If so, then an issue with the heater core could be the origins of the smell.

If the coolant system is failing, then this is a serious issue that could lead to knock on effects in the engine from overheating. It could even be the case that water vapour mixed with antifreeze is invading your car’s interior as steam, meaning you’re breathing in glycol, which can lead to liver damage.

What to do: get your car towed to the nearest mechanic or service centre. If you are experiencing problems with the coolant system, then using the engine could result in more damage.

Rotten eggs (sulphur)

You’re most likely to smell this odour inside the vehicle’s cabin

Cause: Usually down to a malfunction in the catalytic converter, fuel filters or fuel pressure sensors, leading to a sulphur gas leak into your car’s interior due to an imbalance in the car’s air to fuel ratio. Also old transmission fluid is known to evolve this gas. Sulphur is toxic to humans, so if you can detect this smell, then get the car looked at immediately.

What to do: if you’re able to replace the transmission fluid then this may solve the problem. If the problem persists, then it’s time to get the vehicle to the mechanic.

Burnt Paper

You’ll notice this smell when behind the wheel, with the odour becoming more prominent when you change gears.

Cause: this could be a sign that the clutch facing is burning off as the clutch slips. Have you been riding the clutch? Repeated stepping on the pedal can cause excessive friction, which in turn raises the temperature enough to ignite the paper based clutch facings. Alternatively if you’re going into the autumn months, you may find leaves are burning in the engine compartment.

What to do: check the engine compartment to ensure that it’s free of all combustible materials. If the problem persists, then we’d recommend a trip to the mechanic, to have the clutch checked out.

Burnt Oil

You could notice this smell after an oil change or when driving the car.

Cause: this smell will generally be the result of an oil leak. Locating it may be more difficult. If it occurs after an oil change, you could be looking at an improperly fitted oil cap or filter. More serious issues could include leaks from a bad gasket, a seal rupturing, leading to oil dripping on the timing belt, or issues with the crankshaft seal leaking oil into the engine which is then heating up and burning.

What to do: check the cap and filter for leaks. If everything appears to be correctly in place, then you’re looking at a leak somewhere deeper within the engine. A poorly lubricated engine is incredibly susceptible to damage, so take it down to the mechanic without fail.

Musty Dampness

You’ll detect a musty, dirty, organic odour when you turn on the air conditioning unit.

Causes: if your car is a little older, then it could well be some kind of mould or mildew growing inside the air conditioning evaporator. This is more than an unpleasant odour however, as the spores from the fungus can exacerbate lung problems such as asthma.

What to do: take the car out. Drive it around with the air conditioning turned off, the fan on and the vents open. Hopefully this should dry out the system, and get rid of any unwanted mould. If this doesn’t cure the problem, then take the car to a service centre.

Burnt Carpet

You’re likely to catch a whiff of this smell after extensive use of the brakes or handbrake. Especially if you’ve kept your foot on the brake

Causes: the culprit could be a dragging brake pad catching on the disc, overheating pads, or a failure in the pads retraction system. Also even though it might sound obvious, check that you have fully disengaged the handbrake, as this can have a similar effect.

What to do: check the temperature of the brakes. The hottest one is likely to be the cause of the unpleasant odour. If you can change the part yourself, then go ahead. Otherwise get down to the mechanics or service centre, where you can have the brakes and pads checked out for problems by a professional.

Burnt Rubber

When you’re out on the road, the smell of burning rubber will become more prominent in the car.

Causes: the most likely cause of the smell will be some kind of problem with a rubber hose or belt in the car’s engine. Often this might be from a worn out or damaged drive belt. If the rubber becomes loose, and makes contact with hot engine parts, then it can melt and give off a burning smell. However, there is a chance that it could come from an oil or fluid leak. There’s also a small chance it could be coming from an overheated clutch plate.

What to do: check all the hoses and belts in your car to ensure they are properly secured in place and appropriately tightened. If you do find any problems, then replace and maintain the part. If you suspect a leak, then there are several tests you can do to identify the problem.

Petrol

You’ll often smell petrol when you’re starting your vehicle, as a little will remain unburned due to the engine operating at subnormal efficiency. However, if you’re still sniffing the odour of petrol when the car has been running for a while, this could spell problems.

Causes: the smell could be coming from a loose petrol cap or a fault, such as leak or clogging, within the evaporative emissions control system, which is designed to control the fuel vapours and push them back into the engine. Alternatively, there could be a leak within the actual fuel distribution system, like a cracked or broken fuel line.

What to do: if you can smell petrol, then it’s advisable to stop the car immediately and seek mechanical assistance. Petrol is highly flammable, and a leak could result in the car catching fire.

Exhaust fumes

You’ll smell the dirty vapours coming off your exhaust whilst in the cabin of your vehicle.

Causes: usually this will be down to broken or damaged seals on the windows, allowing exhaust fumes to enter the cabin. It could also be caused by a leak in the exhaust system.

What to do: the fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is a deadly, odourless gas within the range of gasses produced by the exhaust. Take your car to the mechanics to check you do not have a leak in the exhaust system.

And Finally

As with all kinds of faults, it’s always best to act quickly when you suspect a problem with your car. It could turn out to be nothing in a best case scenario, but if you ignore it and there is an issue, this could have knock on effects in the engine. Always remain vigilant around your car and use every tool (sounds, sights and smells) to keep your vehicle in check.

The post What’s that Smell? Identifying Car Problems by Odour appeared first on BreakerLink Blog.

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Think Your Car’s Been Stolen? What to do Next…

Car crime has increased 56% over the last 4 years. According to police reports published in 2018, this is still better than the high point of vehicle crime in the 1990s. Waking up in the morning or returning to a car parking lot, only to find your vehicle is missing is not only annoying, but resolving the situation can be time consuming and soak up your available finances. What action steps should you take if you believe your vehicle has been stolen?

Check First

When you discover that your car is missing, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Go through the basics. Are you sure that you haven’t left your vehicle somewhere else? If it’s missing from a car park, could it potentially have been towed, because you forgot to buy a ticket? Take a scout around for any signs that warn of towing – or alternatively check with the local council, or in London you can use the TRACE service, to see if your vehicle has been impounded.

Make a Police Report

Positive your car has been stolen? Make a police report. They’ll give you a crime reference number, generated when the national computer records are updated, which your insurance company will need if you want to make a claim. You’ll also have to submit the following information:

Number plate of the vehicle

Make, model and colour

Details of any personal belongings left inside

The police will inform the DVLA about the theft and if they’ve subsequently found the vehicle.

Insurance Claim

Not all insurance policies cover theft unfortunately. Double check your policy to make sure that you’re covered for theft. Many of the less expensive third party policies will only cover you for damages caused to other motorists – meaning that you will often need to add fire and theft onto the policy. Alternatively if you purchase a fully comprehensive policy this covers you for everything – including damage you’ve caused to your own vehicle.

Armed with your crime incident number and all of the facts of the matter – submit your claim to your insurer. If it’s approved and they agree to settle, they’ll want to pay you the going market rate for a car of similar age and equivalent model. Doing some research at this stage will put you in good stead, allowing you to assess their offer, and if you think they’re trying to come in cheap, you’ll have plenty of evidence to show them the current market value.

Be aware that making a claim under theft could end your policy. If there are still outstanding payments that you need to make against the premium, this could mean that you’ll need to continue paying it off until the end date.

Making a Claim

Decided to go ahead and claim on your insurance? Be sure to have all the facts at your fingertips and don’t guess or estimate anything. You’ll need to give the insurer the exact, accurate details to ensure that your claim is processed smoothly and quickly. As we mentioned, there is a huge variation in policies, so be aware of the following constraints on many claims:

Hire cars – will only usually be paid for if you have specific instructions relating to rental cars in your policy.

Personal possessions – again if your policy mentions personal possessions, then you should be able to claim for these, otherwise you may be able to claim on your household policy, if you don’t have cover from your car insurance.

 Car-jacking – very few policies (around 4 out of 5) do not offer any cover for trauma counselling or injuries sustained in a car-jacking incident. However, if it is mentioned in your policy, you should get compensation alongside appropriate payments for passengers that were hurt.

What to do if your Claim is Rejected…

Insurance companies will often look extensively at your claim to check it is completely valid and you’ve taken the proper steps to protect your vehicle. If they believe you haven’t been careful enough, for instance leaving the keys in the car, the windows open, or there is no sign of a break in,then there’s a chance your claim could be rejected.

If this happens to you, then gather as much evidence as you possibly can to support your case, and then use your rights to dispute the decision. Think that your insurer is taking too long to settle your claim? You should be able to make a complaint. Finally, if you do make a claim, expect your insurance to rise when looking at next year’s premiums.

Inform the DVLA

Should your insurance company pay out then you must inform the DVLA that the vehicle has, in effect, been sold to the insurance company. Personalised plates will need to be retrieved before that sale using the following application form. To complete the process of transferring your vehicle to the insurer, follow these steps:

 Inform the DVLA online or fill in the sell, transfer or part exchange section of your log book and send it to the DVLA in the post with details of the insurance pay out.

Give the remaining part of the log book to your insurance company, as the new owner of the vehicle.

 If the insurance company requests the log book, then you will need to write the details of the claim in a letter to the DVLA – containing the insurer’s name, the date of the claim, make, model, colour and registration number of the vehicle and your signature.

Remember that until the insurance company makes an offer and you accept it, the car still belongs to you. Only send the details of the transfer when full payment is complete.

What if my Car is Recovered?

There is a chance that your car could be recovered or found. If you’re lucky enough to locate it then don’t drive it away. It could be damaged or broken down – or worse still, it could have been used to commit a crime. In this instance, follow these steps:

Inform the insurer immediately, to start a claim, giving them your crime reference number.

Get in touch with the police, who will arrange a recovery, which could cost you around an average of £150 depending on the location and size of your stolen car.

The PNC, HPI and DVLA databases are updated to reflect the car’s record as stolen or recovered. This will not affect the sale price of your car, or appear on the HPI check, but it will be recorded on the anti-fraud and theft register, meaning insurers can see this detail, and may use the information in working out future policy pricing.

 Your insurance company will have the car inspected for any damage, repair costs or work out if it’s beyond reasonable repair or needs to be written off. You can make a claim for the police vehicle recovery fee, if it’s mentioned in the policy.

Claims for light damage should be settled quickly, heavier damage may take longer, but under insurance best practice, you should receive an offer of settlement within 3 months.

Write Offs and Unrecovered Vehicles

Car hasn’t been found? Or maybe it’s been found in such a state, the insurer has decided to declare it a right off? You should be offered the market value (technically known as actual cash value of ACV) of the car when it was stolen. Expect to receive a lot less than the money you originally paid for the vehicle, especially if you purchased a new car, straight off the forecourt.

Unhappy with the ACV offered? You are allowed under law to dispute this amount, however, as mentioned before you will need documentation supporting your argument – such as instances of similar cars being sold at auction or on online sites. If you are worried about the ACV, then you can buy guaranteed asset protection insurance, which will top up your normal insurance. This can be especially useful when you have an essential work vehicle such as a van, that’s used for travel to your jobs with all your tools.

Finally

By taking the proper care you can minimise the chance of your vehicle being stolen. It’s a sad fact that car crime is definitely on the increase. However, with the right precautions you can dramatically reduce the chances of becoming another victim. With car crime, even though insurers will cover you financially for the loss, there are other knock on effects, such as inconvenience, time spent on the claim and with the police and having to find another car – that are in many ways more frustrating than the loss of money. 

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The Seven Most Common Radiator Problems

Every car produces heat. Not only from the combustion in the engine, but also from fast moving parts such as the wheel bearings. Without proper cooling, your car could potentially overheat or even catch fire. Your radiator is your number one defence against high engine temperatures – so how can you ensure this part is working properly? And more importantly, what are the signs your radiator could be suffering from problems? 

How does the Radiator Work?

Radiators are heat exchangers. The coolant is pumped around the engine, picking up heat energy as it traverses around the different parts and systems. The radiator, which is usually made out of aluminium or some highly conductive metal, then pipes this coolant into thin tubes (often known as fins) which are exposed to the air rushing through the front of the car. The outside of the metal is cooled down, which dissipates the heat energy of the coolant – in turn cooling down the liquid. This cold liquid is then recirculated in the engine, to pick up more heat, and further aid the cooling process.

Because the radiator uses thin tubes and a coolant pump system, it is prone to failure and blockages over time. Many problems that occur in the radiator can be resolved with early action and proper diligence. Because the radiator is so important to the engine, keeping one eye on its performance should be a concern for every car owner.

Overheating

When the radiator fails – the car will most likely overheat. You may see steam rising from the engine or the temperature gauge constantly telling you that the engine is getting too hot. Normally cars will operate around 90c-105c – if they start getting hotter, damage can occur throughout the engine. Be aware that in the summer, your temperatures are likely to creep over the high heat mark, due to the warmer weather. However, consistent readings from your heat gauge should be taken as an indicator there is some kind of problem with the radiator.

Causes

If you are experiencing consistent overheating, then it could be due to the radiator corroding internally due to rust, build ups of internal deposits, or debris preventing the coolant circulating properly within the engine.

What to do

Address the problem immediately as fixing a radiator is likely to be less expensive than repairing other major parts in the engine that will be damaged by inefficient cooling. Firstly, however you can check and replace the coolant at home, and see if this has any effect, to ensure that it’s not simply an issue with dirty or old coolant. If replacing the coolant has no effect, then get to a mechanic to have the radiator checked out.

Also note that all the other problems on this list will lead to overheating, so if you prefer, make sure you check out the other symptoms before you take the car to the garage – if you think you’re capable of identifying and resolving the problem on your own.

Leaking Coolant

Have you observed patches of brightly coloured coolant in the areas where your car has been parked overnight? This could be due to leaks or cracks in the radiator. You may also find that you’re adding coolant to the radiator more regularly than usual, in response to the low coolant light.

Causes

The housing or cooling fins in the radiator can accrue damage over time, especially if the radiator becomes clogged due to severe rust build up. Using low quality coolant or tap water, rather than distilled water, can add contaminants to the coolant that increase the chances of rust build up. Failure to regular flush the radiator can also increase rust.

What to do

If you do not address problems with the coolant system quickly, this could lead to knock on damage in the engine due to overheating. Take your vehicle to a professional mechanic, who will perform a pressure test using coloured dye to determine if the radiator is broken – which could mean a replacement radiator.

Sludge Build Up

If your coolant appears discoloured – often a rusty oil colour – then you need to investigate further as this can mean it’s not circulating correctly in your engine. Often checking the coolant overflow tank can be key to quickly checking the condition of the coolant.

Causes

Over time as problems occur in the radiator, this can prevent the coolant circulating effectively within the engine, leading to sludge building up within the system. One cause can be a transmission cooler problem inside the radiator. Over time the barrier between the transmission fluid and coolant erodes causing contamination.

What to do

Firstly, if the problem is not too bad you can perform a radiator flush to get rid of the old coolant as this may resolve the issue. If this fails to resolve the problem, be aware there can be many causes of coolant contamination within your engine. Regardless of the culprit, degraded coolant will not aid in engine heat dissipation. Get to the mechanic who will be able to provide a proper diagnosis and advise on a fix.

Blocked Exterior Radiator Fins

The radiator pumps hot coolant into the thin metal pipes in the fins at the front of the car. The cold air then quickly cools the metal and in turn reduces the heat of the coolant inside. This is the key mechanism that allows the car to regulate heat. If these become blocked, the air can’t circulate as well, reducing the potential heat loss.

Causes

Anything that’s in the air can get caught in the fins. From larger pieces of pollen, bug, dirt, leaves or even soot – all of these particles can get lodged in the gaps, and over time as the blockages build up, these in turn can catch even more material.

What to do

Fortunately this is one of the simpler problems on our list to fix. Remove any cover on the radiator, and use a garden hose with a diffuser nozzle to wash out any debris stuck in the radiator.

Bent or Damaged Radiator Fins

If the radiator fins become damaged, then ruptures and bends in the metal can stymie and prevent proper airflow reaching the coolant.

Causes

We’ve just looked at how particles can block the radiator fins. Larger pieces of rock or gravel pinging off these delicate pieces of metal can also cause damage, bends and warping. It’s even possible for problems to originate during a cleaning process (so be careful with blockages) or maintenance work.

What to do

If you think the damage to the fins is only small, then it is possible to use duck bill pliers to straighten out the problem areas. Grasping the damaged section with the flat plates in the jaws, use leverage to gently flatten each fin. If the damage is extensive, you may be looking at replacing the radiator.

Passenger Area Heater Problems

One for the cold weather? Are you noticing that the engine has been running for a while, but there’s not enough heat coming out of the rear heating vents? You could actually be looking at a problem with a clogged radiator.

Causes

If the radiator’s heater core is clogged or has a leak, then a lack of hot coolant in the radiator core can lead to a failure to heat enough air to raise the temperature in the rear of the car.

What to do

Check the thermostat to ensure that this is not the principle problem. If the thermostat seems to be operating properly, then you need to get the radiator checked out.

Collapsed Radiator Hose

Noticing problems with your car overheating at high revs, or at high speed out on the open road? Although this problem is difficult to diagnose, it could be due to a collapsed radiator hose.

Causes

Most hose collapses are caused by a faulty radiator cap creating a vacuum. Caps are designed to release some of the negative pressure caused by coolant contraction. If this fails to happen, it can collapse the radiator hose.

What to do

In most cases this problem can be overcome by simply cleaning out the old radiator cap or purchasing a new one. If the problem of overheating doesn’t go away however, it may be advisable to get a mechanic to check out the coolant system, before further damage occurs.

Replacing your Car’s Radiator

If you do discover that the damage is terminal, then it’s not out of the question for you to perform your own radiator replacement. With the right tools, a good modicum of mechanical knowledge and some good instructions, it’s possible to change the old part out for a new or replacement car radiator.

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The Most Annoying Types of Pedestrian

Without question, other drivers on the open road are probably likely to be your number one problem. And yes, let’s not even talk about the lycra louts. Don’t you know the laws apparently don’t apply to those saintly beings on two wheels? However, there is another breed of annoyance on the road. The accursed pedestrian. They come in many flavours and sizes – all of them with their own particular brand of trouble. So to help identify them – we’ve produced this handy article…

Here comes the hot stepper

This increasingly common individual is clearly used to getting a lot of attention in their life. Clearly however, they’re above it all, because they’ve got that special something that people just can’t leave alone. I mean, what other reason could they possibly have for stepping out into the road without looking?

Fortunately, most car drivers are doing the hard work for them. I mean, after all, who wants a squished pedestrian on their record or conscience? If you can spot yourself in this picture, we’d recommend you do the world a favour, and withdraw your head from the dark recess you’ve stuffed it into – and start paying attention to the roads like your life depends on it. Because guess what? It does.

Finding the gaps

Some people want everything right now in life. Why shouldn’t they have exactly what they want? If that means that the motoring world has to cope with them nipping out between two parked cars then what’s the problem? Don’t most drivers have the hair-trigger reactions of a young James Hunt, allowing them to swerve and deal with the situation?

Driving is all about expectation. Clever individuals throughout history have set up road systems to be as safe as possible by allowing drivers to have sufficient foresight of any difficulties ahead of them. If you’re going to rob drivers of these advantages then expect them to pay you back with a trip to hospital.

Blame it on the boogie

Streaming services and bigger storage capacities on your personal music devices means that as a pedestrian, you can be plugged into your sound, every step of your journey. Feeling fresh? Why not press those shoes into the pavement and pull some moves? Question is however, are you so fly that you can literally moonwalk through traffic, when you’re not looking where you’re going?

Sound is an important part of navigating traffic. Turn down the headphones, or take one out, so you can hear the natural rhythms of life and the world. Like the incessant grumbling thump of that articulated lorry bearing down on you at 40 mph…

The fastest feet

Some people are naturally born with a fleet foot and a fast reaction. When they’re not at home playing PlayStation games, they like to play Frogger with the traffic. Weaving in between cars waiting at lights, and running in front of fast moving vehicles as they trust their nerves. All it takes is one slip up, and it could be their last.

Let’s put the shoe on the other foot for a second. You never see highly skilled drivers swerving at zebra crossings to miss pedestrians whilst still maintaining speed because they know what they’re doing. So isn’t it best to respect car drivers in the same way they respect you?

She’s on the phone

Modern life is about the connections we make. Being available on the phone is a real luxury compared to 30 years ago. You can be on your phone anywhere, any time – not only talking either, but with your head buried in Instagram as you walk down the street. Not properly looking where you’re going. And suddenly lapsing into traffic as you post that inspired reply to someone’s cheeky comment…

Being on your phone behind the wheel reduces reaction times to a far greater extent than marijuana or alcohol. You wouldn’t expect someone to sit behind the wheel of their car on the phone. So how about you don’t walk down the road, next to streams of traffic, doing the same thing…?

Walk this way

Ah the glorious countryside. The smell of freshly ploughed fields. Birdsong. You have to stand there sometimes and take in the freedom of it all. Especially the way there’s no set pathways on the little lanes and b roads you’ll find all over the more untamed parts of the country. But beware. You’re not so free that you can walk on the wrong side of the road. Stay on the right, so that oncoming traffic can clearly see you.

Most birds, apart from the odd roadkill, have the wherewithal to stay away from vehicles. They  seem to understand the dangers of the country roads. With our massive IQs and clear evolutionary superiority, shouldn’t we be able to take to walking on the right side of the road like for instance… a duck to water?

Like a moonlight shadow

Can anyone see in the dark? No. Then why would being behind a vehicle travelling down a badly lit country road at 30mph be vested with some crazy super powers where they could see you? In a way you almost have to admire the bravery of these souls, who feel no fear walking within mere inches of moving cars, late at night.

It’s simple. No one decides to go walking down a country road late at night on a whim. So if you can plan to take the trip, you can plan to purchase some reflective clothing, a torch, or whatever else you might need to gently circumvent a serious accident.

I get knocked down…

People love getting off their heads on the booze. It’s a time honoured UK tradition. Unfortunately, this doesn’t mean they’re great at getting on the pavement, as they meander and fall into the road, presenting a real danger to themselves and other road users.

You shouldn’t drink and drive. So maybe the law needs to have a little refresher regarding getting wasted and walking. Get a taxi, get your partner to pick you up, or sleep it off on a park bench. Anything to avoid colliding with the road.

Keep on movin’

You’re crossing the road. We know it’s your moment and you have the right of way – but people have places to be. And walking in the middle of the road, even when you’re protected by the law, is still dangerous as the only laws that really apply to moving vehicles in a dangerous situation are Newton’s laws of motion.

The road is a treacherous place. If you’re going to cross it, then make sure you do it with pace and your full attention.

Don’t put on the red light

Cars absolutely have to behave under traffic law. Red lights mean stop. The UK is not one of those crazy countries where you can be sent to court for disobeying the old red man at a crossing – and most of us would like to keep it that way. If you’re going to hit the button, then at least wait for the lights to turn in your favour, rather than chancing it dancing through the traffic.

Yes the roads are a stressful place. But most of the problems out there could be resolved if everyone follows the rules. Yes it can be considered a little boring and conventional, but when we all, including pedestrians, do what we’re supposed to, it creates a predictable environment that’s key to safety.

Test of time

Yes, putting your nose out into traffic is a little on the aggressive side when you’re in a car. It’s a military style move that’s now found its way around the rest of the UK – and into the on street behaviour of some mums. Yes, we get that your pushchair can be weaponised as a battering ram to move difficult feet out of your way at the mall, but this doesn’t mean you should be carrying on the same behaviour when you want to cross the road.

Think about what you’re doing if you ever find yourself indulging your thirst for speed with this kind of action. Really we shouldn’t have to tell you not to act this way in a light hearted article like this.

The final note

If you’re walking along the pavement, please think about how you behave behind the wheel. Drivers have blind spots and it’s really hard to stop a car once it’s in motion without slamming on the brakes. If you’re a driver, then use your knowledge of what it’s like behind the wheel of a car to dictate your behaviour as a pedestrian. Yes, you do have right of way – but remember that cars can’t react with anywhere near the speed and sudden movement as you can on foot.

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Disposing of Car Waste Products – Safely and Legally

There are many consumables used by cars – from oil and petrol, through to tyres and brake fluid. When these products come to the natural end of their lifespan, they need to be processed correctly, so as not to present a danger to the environment and other people. What are the most common consumables, and how can we dispose of them, with minimum fuss and maximum safety?

Motor Oil

Engine oil is the single largest source of oil pollution. Clean oil is bad enough, forming a film over water that allows it to spread across great distances – one pint of motor oil can produce a slick that is able to cover an entire acre, damaging plant and insect ecosystems, causing problems for years.

Old oil is even worse, as it picks up heavy metals and contaminants that could potentially spread on disposal. Therefore disposing of old oil in the waste-water system is a big no-no.

What to do…

Ideally, old oil can be processed and recycled. It is actually only impurities in the oil that make it unusable, so removing these, allows you to put the oil back into circulation.

Drain the oil into an old jar, or other suitable container, with a tight lid.

Make sure your container is clean, and has not been used to hold other materials that might react with the oil.

 See if you can find an oil recycler, where you can drop off old oil for processing. Additionally many service centres and garages will accept old oil for recycling.

Fuel

Petrol is highly flammable, and can cause irritation if it comes into contact with your skin. Diesel is not so dangerous. However, much like oil, it can pollute the ground and cause contamination to soil and the associated ecosystems, if disposed of in the waste-water system.

Make sure you store fuel sensibly – in a suitably marked container, away from direct sunlight and sources of ignition. Remember, that petrol will explode on contact with flame. If fuel becomes contaminated, then you must have it processed by a hazardous waste contractor.

What to do…

Reuse the fuel in any vehicle that’s been designed to take petrol or diesel.

Alternatively, give it away to friends, or to charities, that could use the fuel to power their vehicles and save money.

Get in touch with your local authorities, to see if fuel is accepted at your local recycling centre. This can be a good place to start, as if they don’t process fuel, they can often recommend alternative companies.

Enter your postcode on the GOV.UK website to find your nearest disposal centre.

For larger amounts of fuel, you should be able to find dedicated processing companies, which can visit your site and collect the old fuel.

Anti-Freeze

Much like oil, do not dispose of antifreeze by flushing it down a toilet, or putting it into the local drain system. Because it is based on a glycol solution, which is extracted from sugar, antifreeze has a sweet smell and taste. Therefore unattended antifreeze could be appealing to children, leading to accidental ingestion. If such an event happens, then contact your local hospital immediately, as glycol can cause massive liver damage.

What to do…

Empty all of the coolant from your car, and replace it with distilled water. Run your car’s engine for a couple of minutes, allowing the distilled water to flush the coolant system.

Then after stopping the engine, remove the water, and replace with fresh coolant.

Store it in an old bottle, that’s not going to react with the glycol (the active ingredient) in the antifreeze,and ensure that old antifreeze is stored away from dirty antifreeze.  

 If you do need to dispose of old antifreeze, then use a professional collection service or take it to a disposal centre.

Brake Fluid

Brake fluid is a dangerous material that contains traces of heavy metals, and it can be very flammable too. Because of its reactive qualities, it is recommended that the fluid is not mixed with transmission fluid, power steering fluid or oil. It is possible to dispose of it at home, through the following process:

What to do…

Bleed the brakes, and catch the fluid in a suitable non-reactive container, such as a glass jar.

Pour the brake fluid into a large metal pan, with about a half inch to inch of kitty litter in the bottom. Allow the brake fluid to permeate into the litter.

Allow the pan to sit for 3 to 4 days, away from heat, in a well-ventilated area. Because the fluid is mainly alcohol-based, this will allow it to evaporate.

 When the fluid has all been used up, then dispose of the kitty litter in a plastic bag.

Alternatively, you can seal the material inside a container, and either take it to a waste recycling centre, an auto-retailer with a collection facility, or call up a collection company.

Car Battery

Car batteries are full of corrosive acid, which can cause severe burns on contact with the skin. As a result, it is illegal to try to dispose of the battery through any kind of standard waste-handling unit in the UK, and you will need to find a specialist recycling unit to help you get rid of this old part.  

Battery recycling is very efficient, and can now process up to 90% of batteries for re-use – with around 99% of all car batteries made up of recycled parts, making them one of the most recycled items in the UK.

What to do…

When you remove the battery from its housing,  we would always recommend you wear protective clothing, and thoroughly inspect the car battery for cracks and leaks,

If there is major damage, then you will need to call in a professional to collect it from your premises.

Otherwise, if the battery is safe, then place it upright in the boot of your vehicle, making sure it is well protected and secured.

Make sure that the battery’s terminals are covered, to prevent discharge during transit.

Drive it to a battery recycling centre, where they will break down the battery into its component parts, most of which can be recycled easily, with the acid being neutralised in the process.

Car Tyres

Most of the time, you’ll only need to get rid of your car tyres when they’re old and worn out, and are being changed at a service centre for new ones. Most service centres are able to take the older tyres that are no longer required, and recycle them for a small charge. However in the event that you have decided to change your tyres at home, then follow these steps:

What to do…

 Check with your council to see if you’re permitted to drop tyres at your local waste handling centre. There may be a small charge – but this can often be the easiest option.

Alternatively garages and mechanics in your area may offer a tyre disposal service. Check on Google to see what’s available – and consider looking for a tyre recycling centre too.

You could also donate the tyres to a local playpark, zoo, farm or even a go kart centre, which could easily repurpose the tyres as part of the fixtures and fittings.

If there’s still a little life in the tread, then it may be possible for you to sell the tyres on Gumtree.

Scrap Metal

If you have small pieces of metal (think for instance bodywork), then you can easily sell this to a scrap dealer, or use one of the many services online that offer collection for free.

However, selling scrap for cash is illegal. Under the 2013 Scrap Metal Dealers Act, you can only accept payments made by electronic transfer, payment card or crossed cheque, so that there is a record of the payment.

What to do…

Look around on Google or in any other business directory to find a suitable scrap dealer collection or drop off service.

 Ask to see their license and check that it is up to date – even if you are giving away the scrap for free, the dealer must prove their credentials.

Remember that a mobile scrap dealer could potentially be less likely to have a license than a fixed premises operation.

Please note – if you have to scrap your whole vehicle, then under UK law you must have it processed by a regulated operator. They will extract all the fluids such as brake fluid and oil from the car, and perform more dangerous work, such as the detonation of air bag charges to dispose of the vehicle correctly.

And finally…

Recycling is all about doing your part to save the planet. Reducing consumption is the responsibility of everyone – and it starts with maximising the use of our day to day items to minimise waste. This can be as simple as making sure you don’t leave your lights on and run down your battery, to only purchasing smaller quantities of brake fluid – as it can spoil on the shelf and doesn’t need to be changed regularly.

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How to Clean Your Car’s Headliner

Did you know that your car ceiling has another name? Professionals call it the car headliner. As it lines the top part (head) of the car. Most people don’t even think about this part of the upholstery. Out of sight. Out of mind. And because you’re not in constant contact with it (like with the seats) you can easily go for years without cleaning it.

Ideally you want to clean the headliner once or twice a year. Why? Because an old, discoloured and dirty headliner can make your car look old beyond its years. Imagine you’re stepping into a second hand motor for the first time, and low and behold, there’s a yellow looking headliner that doesn’t quite match the pristine grey of the rest of the interior. What would you think?

Headliners are notorious for collecting odours and stains, which are really unsightly. However, the construction means that special attention is required when cleaning.

What purpose does the headliner serve, how is it constructed, and of course, the six million dollar question… How can you clean it safely and easily?

Why is the Headliner so Important?

Headliners are almost never affixed directly to the underside of your roof.

Normally, you’ll find a small gap between the headliner and the metal. The cavity space functions in a number of ways – firstly it forms a layer of air, helping keep the car warm in winter and cooler in the summer.

Secondly, the cavity can be filled with foam that keeps the noise and vibrations down. And finally, headliners look good. Exposing the underside of the roof to passengers, could show rust and metal fatigue that isn’t so kind on the eye.

How are Headliners made?

Headliners are usually constructed of three standard layers. Closest to the metal roof is the foam backing. Made to absorb vibrations and noise, this helps insulate the car from frost, whilst diminishing outside sounds, including rain on the roof.

Next it’s the rigid card or polymer layer that’s used to help the headliner retain its shape, sitting concurrent with the lines of the roof.

The outermost layer is usually made from vinyl, plastic or fabric, giving the headliner its finish.

The Three Ways to Clean Your Headliner

Different types of dirt, muck and markings on your headliner require individual methods of cleaning. Choose the one most appropriate for the job in hand…

Spot Cleaning – For Small Marks and Dirt Deposits

Use a cloth to wipe away the larger pieces of dirt, taking special care not to rub any of the dirt into the fabric of the headliner – as this will make it nigh on impossible to remove later. A light microfibre cloth is best for this job, although a towel or even a tea towel, will do at a push.

Take a can of foam cleaner and use sparingly. If you haven’t tried the brand before, then it may be advisable to try a tiny spray on a section that’s out of the way, to check it doesn’t mark the fabric. Once you’re satisfied that the cleaner is good to go, spray it either on the cloth, or the mark, and wipe it away.

If the dirt is proving more stubborn, then work the cleaner up into a slight lather, so it penetrates the top layer of the headliner, then wipe it away with a clean corner of the cloth.

Surface Cleaning – For Larger Dirty Deposits

 Again your first step is to try to remove as much of the surface dirt as possible, wiping and brushing it off the surface with light wipes of the cloth. Don’t use too much pressure, or you could turn filthy marks into ground-in problems. Alternatively you may even find that a soft bristle brush works better in these situations.

Using extreme care, spray the entire headliner with cleaner. Don’t overdo it, as you can always respray if you aren’t getting enough cleaning power, but you can’t take cleaner away if it’s starting to saturate the fabric. Give the cleaner time to start getting to grips with the dirt, and then gently give it a hand with the brush.

Once you have given it a going over let it dry. If there are still traces of dirt, then there’s nothing stopping you from giving it another clean.

Deep Cleaning – When All Else Fails

Use deep cleaning when you have serious problems and stains that can’t be shifted by a surface clean. Be aware that deep cleaning methods can attack the structure of your headliner, causing the layers to separate, and the glue that holds the part in place to weaken.

The most popular method of deep cleaning is to use a steam cleaner. Ideally you’ll want to attack small sections at a time. Steam cleaning on its own could be enough, although you can use it in conjunction with a detergent for the best results.

Use the steam cleaner and the cleaning solution to work small sections one by one. When you are satisfied with the end result, make sure that you give the car plenty of air – leave the windows open and consider using a fan to ensure the headliner dries properly.

Keep it Fresh

Ensuring your headliner stays clean is not only about good looks, and preserving sell-on value. It’s your protective barrier from the elements – including noise, cold and heat.

However it can collect odours and stains over time that can diminish the in-car experience, for you and your passengers. Cleaning the headliner helps bring back that good feeling of comfort and pleasure – as your car looks good and smells nice again. And whilst you’re at it – have you considered brushing up the rest of your upholstery? 

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Under Car Leaks Identification Guide

No one wants a leaky vehicle. However some leaks can be very revealing, helping you spot early signs of damage and danger to your engine and your car’s fluid systems – such as the brakes, power steering and transmission. Most leaks will appear under the car as patches of different coloured fluids. If you do spot a leak – what does it mean and what systems do you need to check?

Low Threat Level Leaks

Clear Fluid Leaks

Most clear fluid leaks will be water. However, there is a small chance they could be coolant – so look closely and check there isn’t a green, blue or yellow tint – and the spill is free from odour.

What to do?

Water is usually nothing to worry about. It could be condensation coming from your air conditioning unit in the summer, or the car’s exhaust in the winter. If the leak seems to be persistent, then take your vehicle to the mechanic.

Blue and Green Fluid Leaks

Found a thin, watery fluid that smells a little like window cleaner? Chances are that this is windscreen washer fluid.

What to do?

Pop the hood of the car, and check out the fluid reservoir. Inspect it for cracks. If you can’t find any damage, then it may be worth getting a professional to check the seals and lines.

Medium Threat Level Leaks

Brown or Black

Amber, brown or black fluid leaks, especially those that are slick to the touch and hard to remove from your fingers, are likely to be oil. There will often be a smell of petrol or fuel about the liquid. Older leaks can also permeate concrete, leaving a darker residue.

What to do?

Many cars, especially those with higher mileage will have very minor leaks, which never actually affect the running of the car. Be sure to regularly check the dipstick, and keep your oil levels topped up as failure to do so could result in severe engine damage.

If you find a more substantial leak, then get under the hood and take a look at the engine. Problems like a valve cover gasket leak are easy enough to repair yourself – but if you can’t find the leak, or there’s a serious outpouring of oil (beyond a few mere drips) then get down the garage, and get a professional pair of eyes on the problem.

Reddish Brown

Reddish brown leaks under the steering system will usually be power steering fluid. A slight sweet, burnt odour will confirm your suspicions. Leaks can often originate from cracks, lose connections in the hoses and tubing that carry the fluid around the system.

What to do?

Check the fluid levels in the system to get an idea of the severity of the leak. Be careful about getting behind the wheel as driving with an impaired system could cause lasting damage to your power steering system.

Once you’ve diagnosed a leak, then scout round the system. Some connection issues and pipework problems can be easily solved with a little home-grown mechanical work. However, larger problems will definitely require professional attention, as failing to resolve issues could end up with you replacing your entire steering rack.

Serious Threat Level Leaks

Green or Yellow Leaks

Coolant can come in a variety of different colours. So if you see brighter leaks under your car, then the chances are these originate from the coolant system. The real giveaway is a distinctively sweet smell, not unlike candy floss, and a very slimy texture when rubbed against your finger.

What to do?

If your coolant system is leaking, this could lead to your engine seriously overheating – causing widespread damage and problems to a number of parts. The most common place for coolant leaks to occur is around the radiator, but with hoses going all around the engine, it can be hard to locate the exact source of the leak.

As with most smaller leaks, if you’re looking at a loose cap or connection, you may be able to make the repair yourself. With cracked systems or broken reservoirs, then it’s time to call in the mechanics, as this could lead to calamitous problems that will cost large amounts of cash to fix.

 Red Leaks

Red is certainly for danger in this case. Red leaks generally originate from your vehicle’s transmission system, and will occur on the ground which the front and middle section of were parked over. It is quite a powerful liquid and can even cause stains on your driveway’s brickwork or concrete.

What to do?

If you think you’ve damaged the transmission, then it’s best to get the professionals in straight away. Cars that cannot find the right gear are extremely dangerous. If you’re going at speed, and the transmission fails outright, then this can put you and other road users in an extremely dangerous situation. Play it safe, and get your car towed to the nearest garage.

Amber and Multi-Coloured Leaks

Brownish liquid that has a prism effect under light? This is probably due to a fuel leak. You’ll recognise the smell of diesel and petrol from repeatedly filling your car at the pump – making identification quite easy. Remember that fuel however, especially petrol, can be extremely flammable, so if you suspect a leak keep all heat sources and flames away from the affected area.

What to do?

Fortunately most fuel tanks can be patched up, as long as your car isn’t so old that the rust is basically holding it together. However it is a job that will require the attention of a professional, making it another one on our list that requires a garage visit. Don’t put it off either as we’ve already mentioned – fuel leaks can be very dangerous.

Brown leaks

This is the worst of all leaks. The dreaded brake fluid leak. It’s a huge problem and one that should not under any circumstances be ignored. However, fortunately such leaks are pretty rare. The fluid will be slippery to the touch and usually the location of such leaks will be around the wheels.

What to do?

There’s no two ways about this… If you even consider getting in a car with faulty brakes then you don’t deserve your driving licence. It’s the fast way to get someone hurt or even killed. Call the breakdown service and get a professional lift to the garage. With questionable brakes you cannot even get a tow.

Our Top Tip for Leak Spotting

Think your vehicle might have a leak? Cut up some old cardboard and fashion it into a sheet. Leave it underneath the front of the car for the night, and it will allow you to pinpoint the source of any leaks. Simply pull out the cardboard out from under the vehicle, and you should be able to identify the area of the leak – meaning less scouting around and a faster identification of the problem.

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Know Your Rights – What Happens When Buying a Used Car goes Wrong?

Hunting for used cars is a national past-time. Whether you’re in the market for a bargain, or are a collector trawling through barn finds and small ads, looking for that dream motor – you can find a huge selection of vehicles at some top notch prices. Most sellers are decent people, looking to run a business, or simply trade up on an old car, but this doesn’t mean mistakes can’t be made.

Cars are complex pieces of machinery with many working parts. And because of this there’s a lot that can go wrong. Sometimes, even with the best will in the world, vehicles will be sold with faults that go unnoticed by the seller. What can you do if you’ve bought a car that’s not working quite as expected – and more importantly – if you and the seller disagree on a mutual course of action, what does the law say?

Consumer Rights Act

Any vehicle that you purchase from a professional business, is automatically covered by the consumer rights act. This has the following statutes:

Satisfactory Quality

Anything sold in the UK has to meet the demands of satisfactory quality. This can be quite tricky to establish with second hand cars. However, you would expect a vehicle to not break down within two weeks of purchase, and a relatively new car should perform better than a considerably older model.

Fit for Purpose

Your purchased vehicle should work as expected. If it cannot perform the standard expected functions of a car, then it’s not fit for purpose. However if you have been clearly told and informed of a fault, such as a dodgy electrical window,or central locking not working properly, then you wouldn’t be able to claim under the consumer rights act.

As Described

If there are clear inconsistencies between the advertising and product descriptions of your vehicle, and the actual vehicle itself, such as a difference in engine capacity or year of manufacture, then the car has been illegally sold, and you should be entitled to a refund. On this basis it is important to keep records of all communications, and to ask sellers to put details in writing, giving you a paper trail of information if your new car doesn’t quite match the promises.

Faults Repairs and Refunds

If you have found a problem with your car, then you can return it under the following rules:

Short Term Refund

Has the seller breached the terms of the consumer rights act? If this is the case, you should be able to return the car to them immediately, and request a refund. Dealers will have to prove that you either knew about the fault, or have caused the fault, to refuse the refund in this scenario.

30 day to 6 months

You can return your car to the dealership, and demand a refund, if you have found a fault in the first 30 days to 6 months. The onus of proof is on the dealer in this instance, requiring them to prove that the fault was not present in the car, However, under UK law the dealer should be given a reasonable right to repair the damage. Should the repair not be satisfactory then the buyer is allowed to demand a full refund. 

Been driving the car around? The seller could in this instance factor in the wear and tear on the vehicle and deduct it from any refund.

After 6 months

The burden of proof passes onto the buyer after 6 months. You are still allowed to go back to the dealer, but now because you have been enjoying the car without complaint, it is assumed you were happy with it following your purchase.

Maximum time for a refund claim

Believe it or not you have up to 6 years to claim from the seller. As time passes however, claims are likely to become increasingly difficult, as it becomes harder to prove that the fault existed at time of sale.

Consumer Protection: Unfair Trading Standards

If a dealer has breached the Unfair Trading Standard Regulations (2008), then you can ask for a refund, repair or may even be entitled to damages in court, should the car purchase lead to other losses – such as the brakes failing, causing considerable damage to other cars or even property. These include:

Giving false information – in any format that misleads the buyer about the quality or specification of the car.

Giving incomplete information – or so called lying by omission. Leaving out important details about the condition of the car, such as checks, previous repairs or accidents or mileage details.

High pressure hard sales techniques – forcing the consumer to make decisions regarding finance, cover or warranty packages.

 Failing to act in accordance with reasonable expectations of acceptable behaviour – for instance contravening industry standards.

Breaking specific codes of practice – such as claiming to be authorised by a public body, or falsely stating that there is only a limited time window when the car will be available.

Buying Privately

Be careful when purchasing privately, as this will not afford you the same cover as doing business with a registered dealer. However there are several financial benefits to using a private seller, as prices tend to be lower, and you can pick up some clear bargains.

Two rules sellers must abide by include the seller being legally allowed to sell the vehicle (i.e. it’s not stolen or on finance for example) and it must match the description. We would always advise you to be cautious about meeting sellers – make sure you go to their address, and make a car check before you buy. Read more about test drives and avoiding dodgy seller tricks. 

Finally, the car cannot be damaged and must be roadworthy. If it is not roadworthy, the seller is legally obliged to tell you, and the vehicle can only be purchased for scrap.

Buying from a Dealership

As with private sellers, a dealer must tell you if a car has problems. As they are a business, an official dealer will be subject to all the commercial rules listed at the start of the article. However, from a more practical point of view, we would advise you to always check the car thoroughly before you part with any money. Remember, even if you have breakdown cover or warranties, your rights are not affected, and you can still go back to the dealer if you believe the car had a pre-existing problem.

Buying Online

Purchasing online provides you with the same rights as purchasing from a dealer – including if you buy from an online auction. Your purchase is covered by The Consumer Contracts Regulations 2013, giving you the following rights:

Right of cancellation – you can simply cancel the sale up to 14 days after placing your order.

You must return – the vehicle within 14 days under the terms of the act to receive your refund.

The seller has 14 days – to process the refund from the date of your return.

Buying online from a private seller, gives you the same rights as buying directly from a private seller – including purchases from online auctions.

Buying from an Auction

Yes, auctions are the place to pick up a bargain. You get the excitement of bidding on a vehicle and getting the vehicle you want at a knockdown price can be an adrenaline rush. That’s why it’s so important not to get carried away in the moment, and forget the due diligence, as you’re afforded very few rights once money has changed hands.

Most auctions will have specific terms and conditions, dictating the arrangements behind the sales. You’ll find many vehicles are sold as seen, to avoid complications, which means you must inspect the car thoroughly before buying.

Also if the car is stolen or sold illegally, your arrangement will be with the seller, rather than the auction house. Check the paperwork for guarantees and cooling off periods, so you know the situation before you get on the floor and start making bids.

Valid Reasons for Rejection

The law only allows you to reject a car under the fit for purpose rules if it is actually defective. You’re not allowed to turn round and claim that the seat belts are uncomfortable or you’ve fallen out of love with the colour.

However, if there are minor faults with an older, high mileage car, the seller can claim this is fair wear and tear, if they are not impacting the operation of the vehicle. But this doesn’t mean they can fail to disclose important information – for instance, if the car has been in a major accident or has been clocked. Both valid reasons for demanding your cash back.

Other Protections

In addition to your own due diligence checks, you should be aware of the following:

Finance companies ­– purchased your vehicle on finance? In this case it will be the credit provider that is responsible for the sale rather than the dealer, if there are any problems.

Different types of card – can result in different purchasing rights. Use a credit card and the issuer and dealer may have joint liability under the consumer credit act 1974.

Don’t rely on dealer checks – as these can often be sub-standard. If you are intent on buying a car and want to be sure that it’s of sufficient quality, and there are no skeletons in the carburettor, then perform an HPI check.

Citizen’s advice bureau – get help from the experts if you’ve had a bad experience. Make sure you get professional legal advice before you go charging back into a dealership. Knowing your rights will allow you to approach a dealer or private seller with the facts, giving you a better chance of getting your cash in an adverse situation.

Keep on Buying Second Hand Cars – Good for the Pocket and the Planet

Nothing in life is simple. Even purchasing brand new cars can come with a risk, and remember that many of the savvier car buyers out there will claim a new motor can depreciate by as much as 30% the moment the tyres leave the forecourt.

Buying second hand cars is a great way to save money. Remember that with the right due diligence before you buy, and a little research, you can not only cut down on your spend – but you can also reduce the dangers and hassle, should things not quite turn out as expected.

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Summer Driving – What to Do… And What Not to Do

It’s Summer. You’re on your holidays. The kids are off school. And everyone tells you to be happy. But in the same way those hot, hot days can keep you up at night, failing to go to sleep, the extreme heat can cause you difficulty and discomfort behind the wheel.

No one ever mentions that the summer’s heat can make driving every bit as gruelling as the coldest winter morning.

Not only can it be a real sweatbox in the car, even with the air conditioning on full whack, but the heat also puts more strain on the engine and its systems.

We can’t unfortunately turn down the temperature gauge on the British weather, so use the following tips to make the driving seat that little bit more bearable during the hottest months:

Make these Basic Checks…

If you think that the heat is frustrating, imagine how annoyed you’ll be if your car breaks down on a long trip. These simple checks will help you prevent problems on the road:

·        Oil – use the dipstick and ensure that the levels are correct. Wipe the stick and replace it in the hole, before drawing it out and observing the position of the dot  on the metal. If it’s below the fill mark, then pour more oil into the oil reservoir. Don’t pour into the dipstick holder.

·        Coolant and screen wash – always check coolant when the car is cool, and hasn’t been driven for at least 30 minutes. Hot coolant can spit out of the reservoir and is extremely dangerous. Ensuring that the reservoir has cooled is a vital step to take before checking levels. Screen wash needs to be a mix of washer fluid and water to help remove stuck on bugs and dust from the windscreen that may impede visibility.

·        Tyres for tread and pressure – car tyres can become more pressurised when the air heats up – as the energy stored within the air will cause it to expand. A little like how steam rushes out of a kettle. Make sure your tyres are not over pressurised, and let out a little air to release the pressure if necessary.

In short – preparation means less frustration when on the road.

Cool and Breezy

Make no mistake, convertibles are a ton of fun in the summer. However, problems with the canopy or the mechanism can be a real headache, if you don’t check them first. Whether you have a hard or a soft top – there’s a number of checks and cleaning processes that will make sure your canopy is in great working order, before you try to use it on that fresh, sunny day.

The Weather with You

Plan and time your route in accordance with the weather. Taking a business trip with a return journey scheduled for 5.00pm on the Friday night before bank holiday weekend is going to cause trouble and frustration, as you embark homeward through holidaymaking traffic. Try to avoid rush hour, be clever with your timings, and make arrangements that sit outside of peak traffic times.

Wet or Lost Key Fobs

Nothing is more frustrating than losing your keys. Shorts and summer trousers are renowned for being less than secure, and if you’re taking clothes off to jump in an outside pool or the sea, then you could easily lose your keys. Or worse still forget they’re in your pocket and jump into some cooling water only to discover you’ve got them wet.Put them in a safe place, like a sealed handbag or rucksack, in a zipped up compartment so you don’t lose them or expose them to water.

Glare from the Sun – Dazzling Light

Get those polarised glasses on behind the wheel. Don’t go for heavy tints or mirror shades, but instead get some glasses that filter out the sunshine and are great for behind the wheel. Keeping the windscreen clean can also help. Too much sun means squinting, which can cause you trouble at high speeds – adding to the frustration and long periods of brightness, in turn making your eyes tired.

Warm and Sleepy

There’s a reason why people like to sleep with heated blankets or jump into bed after a hot bath. Heat makes you tired. Getting behind the wheel when you’re not feeling fully energised can give you problems later down the road.  And when you get tired, all too often the drowsiness comes with irritability and a dangerous short fuse, which won’t help when dealing with the problems of summertime traffic.

Sniffles and Sneezes

If you suffer from hay-fever, then you probably dread the summertime. Pollen can become thick in the air, bringing irritation to your nose and sinuses. Fortunately, there are several remedies and precautions you can take these days that negate the dangerous effects, allowing you to relax behind the wheel.

Loose Chippings

Summertime is often a choice moment for road resurfacing work. Usually these crews put down a layer of loose chippings, which will slowly be impacted into a more usable surface over time by traffic passing over them. Unfortunately when these surfaces have been freshly laid, stones can kick up and damage your paint and windows. Do yourself a favour and drive at the required level of under 20mph.

Smoking Damages…

If you must smoke then try to avoid setting fire to the countryside by keeping your cigarette and roll up ends in the car’s ashtray. Or take along a convenient receptacle that you can use as an alternative. The last thing you want to see is a news report of a fire originating in a field next to a road near a place where you flicked a butt out of the window.

Stuck Behind a Tractor?

Yes, they can be extremely annoying. And no one wants to get stuck behind a tractor. But they can see you and want to give you space. Tractors generally pull over when possible – unless you tailgate them, give them hassle and beep your horn. After all, farmers are like everyone else. They respond best when you treat them with respect.

Other Road Users

Sunshine gets everyone out and about. You’ll need to drive with additional care as you’ll see more cyclists on the road, more pedestrians taking risks to cross the road, and children playing in the street. It’s wise to exercise more caution and make sure you stick to the speed limits.

And Finally

It’s very easy to suffer from a breakdown in all the heat – with the excess stress on your engine. Make sure you’re ready in case the worst happens, and arm yourself with our guide to breakdowns.

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Car Break In? What to do Next…

It’s a situation you don’t want to happen. Returning to your car – or waking up in the morning – to find your car’s been the victim of a break-in is no fun. Sadly, with the rise of urban crime, it’s becoming an increasingly common problem. 2018 saw a rise of over 9% in vehicle related thefts against the previous year.

The first priority is your safety. Do not approach a car, if you think the thief could be nearby, and make sure you’re not at risk. Once you’ve surveyed the scene, and you’re comfortable about returning to the car, follow these steps:

Document the Incident

Always take pictures, especially if you want to file an insurance claim, as you will probably have to speak to an assessor at some point. It may be worth writing down all the details too, because emotion can cloud your observational judgement when it comes to recalling details about the incident.

List everything, including all damage to the doors, windows, boot, tyres and anywhere that’s been knocked or scraped. Remember, that the vehicle has become a crime scene, so avoid rummaging around and tainting any evidence. One thing that can help the police, is the position of any security cameras, together with anything left at the scene of the crime by a potential perpetrator.

With insurance fraud increasing in recent years, many insurance companies are now very strict when it comes to issuing claims. For instance, you may be so concerned about the loss of valued goods, that you overlook the damage to the vehicle – which could cost quite a lot to fix. Make sure you go over every single detail, in case you require it later to support a claim.

Report it to the Police

If you want to make a claim on your insurance, then it is vital you contact the police, report the break in and get a crime incident number. The police may or may not visit you, depending on the severity of the issue and whether or not they believe the matter is connected with any on-going investigations. It’s possible they could ask you to attend the station to help with their enquiries.

You will need the following information when making a police report:

Your driver’s license

Vehicle registration

Car insurance details

Photos on your phone of the damage

All details pertaining to the stolen items

This is where your notepad will also come in useful, as there are several standard pieces of information that the police will require. This includes details such as the location of the crime, the times when you left and returned to your vehicle, and information about suspicious activity in the area.

There is also the chance the police could recover your stolen items – putting them back in your hands, even if you’re not insured. Again, remember not to tamper with any evidence, until you have finished communicating with the officers assigned to the case.

ID Theft

One of the first actions you must take if you’ve lost any items that contain your details – including password protected mobile phones, laptops and any other IT devices, is place a fraud alert on your accounts. Contact the banks, let them know you’ve lost your cards, and if possible download software onto your mobiles, tablets and laptops that allows you to remotely self-destruct the data.

Additionally password vaults can help you keep track of all your passwords – allowing you to change the important ones if a theft occurs from your vehicle.

Making a Claim

You may not want to make a claim on your insurance, if it is under the excess charge. However, if the damage is severe and you’re missing valuable items – then this is exactly why you’ve insured your car – to protect you from having to fork out for the loss. However, be aware of the following facts when making a claim:

Household insurance – although valuables may have been stolen from your car, these could come under your household insurance, and may require you to make an altogether separate claim.

Check your car insurance policy – in order for the damage to be covered, you will need a comprehensive cover policy. It may also be worth getting a quote on the damage, to check that it’s worth claiming in respect of your excess and your no claims bonus. 

Stopping Car Break Ins

What’s better than being able to quickly respond to a break in? Preventing one happening in the first place. Whilst there is nothing you can do to stop a super dedicated thief – most robbers are opportunists who will go for the lower hanging fruit. The more barriers you put in front of a criminal, the more likely they are to go elsewhere.  Consider the following:

Cleaning out your garage – more than 50% of the UK’s garages are now used as household storage. Get rid of the clutter, and use the space to store your car for extra protection.

Lock the doors and shut all the windows – even in the summertime. The slightest gap in your window could be exploited by a thief. Don’t make their job easy and keep everything shut tight.

Don’t leave valuables in the car – as these will be a real magnet for potential thieves. Always empty your car of anything of value at night, and if you must leave items like laptops, phones or bags in your vehicle then lock them in the boot, away from sight.

Park in a safe, well-lit area – try to leave your car on a street where thieves might stand out. Dark, back roads give robbers extra cover and parking away from the main streets could make your car an easy target.

Activate  anti-theft measures – from window alarms to car alarms – making sure that if someone is brave enough to break into your vehicle, they’ll have to withstand the social scrutiny of local people looking out of their windows to see the source of the racket.

Don’t leave the car unattended for too long –  for instance if you’re staying in a hotel for a long weekend. Thieves may see this as an easy target. Get out there and move it – even if it’s only a couple of streets.

Report suspicious activity  – in your local area. If you see someone standing around the cars and peering into your car windows then pick up the phone and call the police.

And Finally

With all break-ins the most important thing is to stay calm. Keeping a clear head and following through on a set course of action, will help you deal with the stress later. Be vigilant about documenting the incident, and act quickly for the best chance to get your goods back. Remaining cool will stop a whole lot of stress in the future.

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[armmotorsports]

How to Avoid a Tyre Blowout – And How to Handle One if it Happens…

No one wants to be faced with a tyre blowout. When you’re travelling down the road at speed and you suddenly lose control, it can be extremely unnerving. However, there’s plenty you can do to stop yourself ever coming face to face with such a problem.

Tyres wear out. The rubber doesn’t last forever. So every time you go over a pothole, wear up against a kerb, or go over a speed bump a little too fast, you’ll degrade the surface of the tyre and the structure will deteriorate.

All these little knocks and scrapes then build up over time until suddenly – usually during a period of hard driving, on a very hot day, or when you’re carrying a big load, boom – that’s it. The tyre simply gives up the ghost.

Of course, the key to stopping a blowout is keeping your tyres in good condition. Regular checks are key, and remaining aware of the causes of premature wear helps you also make the spot checks that can identify a sudden problem when it starts.

What causes Tyre Blowouts?

Some of the main causes of sudden catastrophic failure of your tyres include the following:

·        Inflation or pressure problems – if the pressure inside the tyre is too high, this will put excess stress on the outside rubber skin, making it more susceptible to damage.

·        Alignment issues – when tyres are not balanced properly, certain areas of the tyre are forced into contact with the road, causing considerably more wear. These areas degrade faster than the rest of the tyre and lead to blowouts.

·        Aging and dry rot – over time tyres can be attacked by mould and spores that cause the rubber to lose tensile strength. Over time this can weaken the structure of the tyre, causing a blowout.

·        Overloading – putting too much weight on your tyres will increase contact with the road, and can lead to the rubber experiencing more wear, especially if your tyres are not inflated to the correct pressure levels.

·        Blisters and cracks – damage to the tyres can often be seen as blisters in the skin or cracks in the sidewall. Both of these are tell-tale signs that the tyre is becoming weak, and one fissure could easily expand to cause a blowout.

·        Potholes and problems with the road surface – holes, cracks and even rocks or pieces of broken glass can quickly destroy your tyre’s surface rubber, leading to a blowout incident on the road.

If Your Experience a Tyre Blowout – What to Do?

A tyre blowout on the road can be an unsettling experience. Follow these steps to ensure that you keep control of your vehicle, and a clear head on the road.

Front Tyre Blowout

·        The tyre blowout will cause the vehicle to veer heavily to one side. Using a firm grip on the wheel, steer in a set direction to correct the vehicle’s trajectory.

·        Don’t use the footbrake, as this could cause the car to spin out of control. Just take your foot off the accelerator, and allow friction and gravity to do the work of reducing your speed. If you must use the footbrake – be incredibly gentle and cautious.

·        Apply the handbrake on and off rapidly, if you must reduce speed quickly, but be aware that locking the back wheels in such a situation could damage your rear axle.

·        Lowering your gear can help reduce speed, but be incredibly cautious about rushed or sudden changes that can cause the car to jolt. Remember that you’re already suffering from reduced control.

·        Keep your hands on the wheel – firmly in place, but not so tight that you’re unable to respond to the road. Control is key in a blowout situation – giving yourself the best chance to come to a safe stop.

Rear Tyre Blowout

·        The car will veer from side to side if your rear tyre blows out. Keep a firm grip on the steering wheel, and as with a front tyre blow out – let the car’s natural weight and gravity reduce the overall speed.

·        Try to avoid the urge to brake. If your car is already lurching from side to side, this could cause it to spin. Braking is a real danger in a rear tyre blowout situation, and is potentially dangerous both to you and the vehicles around you – especially if you’re in heavy traffic.

·        Drive your car in a straight line. You may need to accelerate slightly to bring the car back on course and preserve momentum, negating the effects of a side slide.

·        If you have a front wheel drive car, then carefully shift down, if you are confident that you can maintain control of the vehicle with one hand.

Steps to Take Following a Blow Out

Once you have bought the car to a standstill, and given yourself enough time to relax and regain a calm demeanour behind the wheel, take the following steps:

·        Turn on your hazard lights and put out reflective cones if you need to alert other motorists to your presence.

·        If possible, change your tyre for the spare tyre in the back of your car.

·        If you are on a dual carriageway, motorway or smart motorway – make sure you proceed with the appropriate caution and follow the appropriate protocols.

And Finally

Remember, the key to avoiding blowouts is regular tyre checks. Make sure you’re keeping one eye on these factors:

·        Weekly tyre pressure checks – using a small gauge that can be plugged into the tyres, or using the system at your local filling station.

·        Visual checks going round the car, inspecting each tyre for cracks, bubbles and damage to the rubber.

·        If you’re going on a long journey, then it can pay to give the tyres a further once over a day before you embark, to give yourself peace of mind that you won’t suffer problems.

·        Carrying a heavy load? Ensure your tyres are pumped to the correct levels by referencing the load bearing chart in your owner’s manual.

·        And if there’s a heatwave – which is unfortunately becoming more commonplace in this age of global warming – then be more vigilant about your tyre pressure checks, as this is a key time for you to experience a blow-out.

And remember, stay calm behind the wheel at all costs – and to remind you one more time, never brake in a rear blowout and be extremely cautious about braking in a front blowout.

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[armmotorsports]

10 Signs That Your Starter Motor Could Be in Trouble

Poor maintenance will cause problems with your starter motor. However, this little powerhouse is responsible for the kinetic kick that gets your engine revving and running – and therefore suffers a tremendous amount of stress every time you twist your key in the ignition. So no matter what you do, this part will wear out over time.

The bigger and newer your car, the greater the stress on the starter motor. The longer it goes without trouble, the more likely it is to fail. Remaining aware of the following danger signs can help you avoid serious problems.

How does the Starter Motor Work?

When you turn the ignition key or hit the switch in your car, this engages a solenoid (switch) on the starter motor. This in turn engages a gear, using its rotational power to fire up the engine by rotating the crankshaft. This process is more commonly known as turning the engine over. Because the engine doesn’t have the power to start under its own combustion, the starter motor gives it the necessary boost.

Starter Motor Warning Signs

It is rare for a starter motor to fail outright. If you notice any of these warning signs – particularly one or two combined together, then make sure you contact a trusted, local garage and get it booked in for an inspection. If the starter motor won’t start, then you won’t even be able to get the car to the garage…

·        Dash lights up but the engine won’t start – if there’s consistent power coming from the battery, and the engine won’t turn over, then this is a good early indication that there’s something wrong with the starter motor. Especially if the battery has been recently charged.

·��       Engine simply won’t turn over – due to lack of power coming from the starter. This could be due to a flat battery, so don’t jump to conclusions without checking the available current. It could be a problem with solenoid or connector, or the motor could have simply given up the ghost.

·        Metal on metal grinding noises and sounds – caused by the motor failing to properly engage the flywheel, because its starter drive gear is worn out. Be careful with this symptom as if it goes ignored, further damage can occur to the flywheel, which will be expensive to fix.

·        Free-wheeling – if you start the engine and hear a whining noise, but the engine doesn’t seem to be cranking correctly, this is due to near complete loss of engagement between the starter and flywheel. Get down to the garage quickly or risk the loss of both parts.

·        Overheating and smoking – leading to a strong smell of smoke in and around our vehicle. This means that your motor is drawing an excess of current which could be caused by a connection problem causing a short circuit, issues with the ignition switch, or you’ve been running the starter motor for too long and your vehicle won’t start due to other mechanical issues.

·        Oily starter motor – due to the positioning of the motor within the framework of the engine, this part is especially susceptible to damage from oil leaks. If oil has penetrated the starter motor, this will dramatically diminish its lifespan. Get the leak sorted quickly, and replace the starter motor.

·        Starter doesn’t stop – in some cases the starter motor may keep on turning after the engine has started running. A faulty solenoid will be the usual cause, with the gates welding together preventing power from shutting off. Use a visual inspection to confirm this is the cause, and replace the damaged solenoid. Failure to resolve this problem will result in damage to the flywheel – which could be a very expensive fix.

·        Damaged solenoids – the opposite problem of your vehicle’s starter not stopping, is a failure to start. If the solenoid is working correctly, you should hear a click coming from the part. If there’s no sound, it is probably broken.

·        Intermittent problems starting the engine – sometimes the engine starts easily. Sometimes it takes a long time. This is usually down to problems with the relay feeding current to the starter motor. 

·        Starter engages but your car won’t start – if you’re hearing the starter motor activate, but it’s failing to crank the engine, then this will be down to the flywheel and other gears failing to engage properly. It could be that the gears have become stripped, or have slipped out of connection.

Prolonging the Life of Your Starter Motor

The following tips can help you get a few more hundreds or even thousands of miles out of your starter motor:

·        Keep the connectors, terminals and solenoid clean – ensuring that the motor receives enough power to fully rotate the engine. Dirty, corroded or worn connections can reduce the current available to the motor, making it work harder, which leads to increased fatigue.

·        Ensure the mounting bolts are tight – to preserve the connection between the motor and the flywheel. Both parts are under a lot of pressure, and a bad connection can cause them to wear out quickly.

·        Inspect the flywheel – over time the flywheel can become cracked, worn or even lose its teeth, impacting efficient engagement with the pinion gear on the starter motor. If you continue to force the starter motor to work with a broken flywheel, it will quickly diminish the lifespan of the part.

And Finally

Cars undergo tremendous stress on the road, and it’s a testament to modern engineering that ride quality is of such a high standard and engine noise is so low. It’s almost easy to forget that cars wear out over time – and your starter motor is no exception.

Fortunately, replacing your starter motor is a job that most mechanically minded individuals with a reasonable degree of skill can take on. Allowing you to keep your car running smoothly, without having to deal with expensive garage bills.

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