authorcblee

[authorcblee]

i love this so much. anh's smirk! xiang's lil pleased smile, her determined gaze. their outfits!!! anh's shoulders!! all of this a thousand times yes thank you

a little more Xiang and Anh art

[authorcblee]

Upsizing clothes! There are a million upcycling tutorials for clothes that are too big, but so few on how to make too small clothes you still love bigger!

Thank you for your suggestion! We all go through weight fluctuations in life, so it stands to reason our clothes should be able to fluctuate with us.

Resizing your clothes used to be a very common practice before the advent of fast fashion. Fast fashion sizing is extremely flawed, especially when it comes to plus size fashion, and we're stuck with a lot of vanity sizing, so it's a good skill to have regardless of whether you're looking to mend something old or buy something new.

How to upsize clothes:

Introduction:

There are many different ways to make a garment larger. The following list is not exhaustive, just a few ideas to get you started.

Grading patterns:

If you're making your own clothes, it's always useful to know how to modify a sewing pattern. The easiest way to adjust a pre-existing pattern to your size is slash and spread grading. First, you need to define which spots on the pattern need extra space. You then cut your pattern in that spot, and slide the resulting pattern pieces away from each other until you've got the size you need. Use paper to fill in the gaps. To ensure the resulting pattern makes for well-fitting clothes, make a mock-up and add, move, or remove darts where necessary to adapt it to your body type.

The image below shows potential slashing lines on pattern blocks for an AFAB body. Unfortunately this was the only diagram I could find, but know that other types of patterns use similar line placements. Each line is a spot that allows you to add extra space. To read more about this process, check out the corresponding article by Threads Magazine.

(Image source)

To make your clothes easier to let out in the future, make sure to provide ample seam allowance when cutting out your pattern pieces. This surplus fabric has several different uses, including giving you some wiggle room for when you need to size up your garment.

Now, let's take a look at pre-made garments.

Lengthening clothes:

A garment that's too short on you is easy to modify. Just add more material!

If it's a skirt or a dress, add ruffles to the bottom. Ruffles are easy to make by hand or with a sewing machine. You could also add lace, or wear the item with an underskirt.

For pants, let down your hem or sew on a new cuff. If this isn't enough, maybe consider turning your trousers into capri pants or shorts.

As for shirts, sewing an extra layer to the bottom edge is the easiest way to go, too. You could even combine two shirts into one to get an extra long shirt.

Another option is to cut your item in two and insert extra fabric between your separated garment parts.

(Image source)

(Image source)

Letting out seams/darts:

Remember how we made sure to have ample seam allowance earlier? When a garment has surplus fabric in the seams and you only need a little extra space, you can undo the seams of your garment and sew them back together again, this time with a smaller seam allowance than before. The Spruce Crafts has a pretty good tutorial on how to let out seams. You won't be able to make major size changes using this technique, but if you only need a few centimetres, this is a good way to go.

A lot of garments also have darts. Darts are fabric folds that are sewn down in strategic places to help the fabric follow the body's curves. If a dart doesn't fit you the way you want it to, then unpick the dart and try on the garment. Either leave the dart open, or pin the dart in place however you want it, then take off the garment again and sew the dart back together.

Be careful not to rip the fabric when using a seam ripper. Also note that removing entire darts may change the garment's fit.

You can also add custom darts to achieve a better fit, but that's a topic for another time.

(Image source)

Adding extra fabric to your garment:

If we need to add more room than seam allowance or darts can provide us with, we need to add extra material. Remember those slashing lines we looked at earlier? If you're working with a pre-existing garment rather than a pattern, those are the perfect places to chop up your clothes and add in extra fabric.

Check your sewing stash for fabric that's similar in weight and material to your original garment, or go thrift shopping for an item you could use to upsize your garment. Long skirts and maxi dresses are a great source of fabric for alterations like these!

Lace inserts are also a fun choice to add some room, and if you're working with a knit item, you could even knit or crochet your own custom insert.

Define the area where you want to add extra fabric on your item, and measure how much you need. Draw a straight line on your garment with chalk/soap. Make sure the line doesn't cross any important structural or functional parts of your garment like darts or button holes: refer to the slashing diagram we saw earlier if you're not sure what spot to pick. Cut the line open (or unpick the seam if it's situated on a seam), and add in your extra fabric. Finish off your new seams so they don't unravel later on, and you're done!

You can add straight strips of fabric for extra width or length, or you could use flared panels or even godets to make your item flair out.

Want to see this technique in action? Check out this video by Break n Remake:

Some ideas:

This Pinterest user cut a straight line down the front of a t-shirt and inserted a lace panel to add extra width in the front of the garment.

(Image source)

Busy Geemaw cut open the side seams of a shirt and used flared panels to add some extra width in the bust and hip area.

(Image source)

This person added a panel to the sides of a pair of jeans to give them more space in the hip area. You could easily use a long straight panel or a panel that flares at the bottom to resize the entire garment instead of just the hips, or use a wide piece of elastic for extra stretch.

(Image source)

This person added a godet in the back of their shirt in order to get more space in the back.

(Image source)

Blue Corduroy enlarged a pair of shorts by opening up the side seams and adding in strips of fabric.

(Image source)

You don't need to resize the entire garment if you don't want to. For example, One Brown Mom turned this ankle-length skirt with a too small waistband into a well-fitting knee-length skirt by taking advantage of the skirt's flared shape.

(Image source)

Conclusion:

Throughout our lives, our weight will fluctuate and our bodies will change. There's no shame in this: it's just a fact of life. Therefore, knowing how to upsize an item that is too small for you is a useful skill to learn.

If you want more inspiration, check out these projects by Confessions of a Refashionista, One Brown Mom, and Thriftanista in the City.

[authorcblee]

absolutely adore adore adore!! thank you ;___;

Xiang and Anh from a scene in A Clash of Steel by CB Lee!

[authorcblee]

I utterly adore these three new speculative fiction books:

Meet Me at the Crossroads by Megan Giddings Coffeeshop in an Alternate Universe by C.B. Lee Ten Incarnations of Rebellion by Vaishnavi Patel

Don't sleep on these incredible reads!

https://www.washingtonpost.com/books/2025/06/13/new-scifi-fantasy-novels-june/

These books all have portals and/or alternate realities. But the main thing they have in common is unforgettable characters and brilliant worldbuilding.

[authorcblee]

hi! just wanted to say ive loved the sidekick squad books so much, they're such a great story and fun to read!

thank you so much!!

[authorcblee]

Happy PRIDE MONTH 🫶🫶🏳️‍🌈🏳️‍⚧️💖

[authorcblee]

I'm in grad school to be a librarian, and currently taking YA Lit where we get to personally pick most of the books we read. I've read Not Your Backup and Clash of Steel so far and I LOVED them! I loved Emma's anxiety and her QPR and the normalized queerness, and Xiang and Anh's slow relationship build. ❤️ Wish I'd had these books growing up, glad you're writing them for the next generation.

thank you so so much! i’m so glad to hear, and appreciate you taking the time to share  ❤️

[authorcblee]

COFFEESHOP IN AN ALTERNATE UNIVERSE - JULY 1, 2025

A geeky overachiever determined to save the world through science and a troublemaking chosen one lashing out against her destiny meet and fall in love in a magical coffeeshop as their two very different universes begin to collide in Coffeeshop in an Alternate Universe, C.B. Lee’s fun, sapphic, cozy fantasy YA romance.

Illustrator: Lisa Villella

Cover Design: Meg Sayre

Read more!

hey tumblr! here's my latest baby, an homage to all things nerdy and cozy and gay and coffee. to the feels and interdimensional travel, i hope you enjoy!

Add on Goodreads

Pre-order:  Bookshop | Amazon | B&N | BAM

Submit preorder information for bonus content

[authorcblee]

your new book looks cute! I just came across it when ordering for OverDrive

thank you so much!!! I’m so excited for it :) 

[authorcblee]

signourney

[authorcblee]

jess tran moodboard

[authorcblee]

Pistachio from Seal Rescue Ireland! She could get away with anything with those eyes.

[authorcblee]

Emma from Not Your Backup!!!!! I loved this book so much

[authorcblee]

i just read not your sidekick and it was awesome!! i love the characters and bells was relatable as a trans guy!

yay! i’m so glad you enjoyed the books! ^___^ hope you like emma’s book next!

[authorcblee]

“No trailblazer can trailblaze without standing on the shoulders of others who fought for our visibility.”- Sara Ramírez receiving the Trailblazer Award at the Women’s Event, held by The LGBT Community Center in New York City. 

[authorcblee]

I just got a very sweet postcard in the mail from my favorite characters. I had forgotten I requested one a while ago. I just wanted to thank you so much. I’m in a kind of low place lately but the little “I believe in you’s” I just got from the sidekick squad made me so happy. Thank you 10,000 times over!

thank YOU so much! i don’t check my asks that often so this is quite late but i appreciate this message! the sidekick squad had a great time sending out the postcards and i’m so glad it helped brighten your day. you are wonderful and valid and i’m wishing you all the best 

[authorcblee]

So excited to be at SDCC 2019! You can find me at the following panels and signings:

THURSDAY

4:30-5:30PM, Room 26AB, Panel: Higher, Further, Faster: Are We There Yet? 

FRIDAY

4:00-5:00PM, Signing at Sails Pavilion Autograph Area AA07

6:00-7:00PM, Room 25ABC, Panel: Into the Fanzone

SATURDAY

6:00-7:00PM, Signing at Sails Pavilion Autograph Area AA09

7:00-8:00PM, Room 11, Panel: Tropetastic: How to Write and Subvert Tropes

SUNDAY

12:30-1:30PM, Room 23ABC, Panel: Fandom Meets YA

1:45-2:45PM, Signing at Sails Pavilion Autograph Area AA06

2:45-3:45PM, Room 5AB, Panel: Super Asian America