azworkingdogs

[azworkingdogs]

“My Dog Is A Turkey, But I Love Him Anyway” CHALLENGE!

The post “My Dog Is A Turkey, But I Love Him Anyway” CHALLENGE! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/335g3nL via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Dog Food Secrets… Exposed!

Choose The BEST Dog Food, Without Getting Ripped Off

We all know that a varied diet is important for human health…

… It’s how we get the nutrients we need from our food to live long, healthy lives, free of disease.

No single food provides the complete nutrition the human body needs.  So we’re encouraged from a young age to “eat the rainbow,” filling our plates with a variety of fruits, vegetables, along with some dairy and protein and complex carbohydrates.

But what about our dogs?  Do they need this same variety?

Is it REALLY okay to feed your dog the same brand of dog food, year after year?

This is a question that I hear often.

So I thought I’d take this opportunity to share what I’ve personally learned, after over a decade of training dogs and getting emails from tens of thousands of dog owners from around the world.

What Your Dog Eats Every Day Matters… A Lot.

It’s absolutely true that your dog, like you, has complex nutritional needs.

So this means, YES, while you might not see the difference day to day, the food you’re choosing to feed your dog is having a significant, long-term impact on his life.

It affects his health, lifespan, and overall quality of life—now and through his senior years.

Will your dog live a long, healthy life, free of disease?  Or will you lose him early?

Will he develop a chronic health condition?  Will he suffer? Or, will he enjoy his senior years with the youthful energy of a puppy.

Many things contribute to your dog’s overall health and well being including his breed, genetics, current age, and activity level.  Plus, depending on his age, breed, size, and activity level—your dog’s dietary needs are going to change over his lifetime, too.  Just like your diet will need to be adjusted as you age.

That’s the “bad” news—your concerns are justified, this choice you’re making matters a lot.

So… Is Commercial Dog Food A Good Choice, Then?

Given that what you’re feeding your dog every day obviously has a significant impact on his overall long-term quality of life, a lot of people ask the question:

Is commercial dog food really a good choice?

Should my dog be eating the SAME FOOD every day?

I asked this question, too.  And here’s what I learned:

The science behind the very best brands of commercial dog foods has come a LONG WAY.

Top-shelf dog food brands … the best of the best … have been formulated by teams of veterinary nutritionists and other such experts who care a lot about making dog food that really does prolong and improve the lives of our canine best friends.

They know that most people will choose a dog food, and feed it to their dog every day.

So they take their role as gatekeepers of your dog’s long-term health seriously.

Plus—there are now regulatory bodies like the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) who set the standards for dog food labeling.

This means, even though most people still find dog food labels confusing…

… There IS somebody policing the industry and verifying claims.

Dog foods labeled “complete and balanced” must, at minimum, meet all your dog’s needs for vitamins, minerals, fats, proteins, and carbohydrates.

With variations in formulations for things like age (puppy, adult, and senior) and activity levels (active, sedentary, overweight).

So while it’s still up to YOU to choose a brand who delivers the best possible dog food formulation, because again, they’re not all created equal…

… This should give you a bit more confidence in making your choice.

But Wait… What About Homemade Dog Food?

Lots of folks ask me about feeding their dogs homemade dog food, raw diet, vegan diets, and other such specialty diets.

Are these BETTER ways to feed your dogs?

I won’t get into reviewing each of these specialty dog food diets here.  I’ve seen enough success stories over the years to know, in the right circumstances, for the right dogs, some of these specialty feeding programs have their place.

BUT!  They’re not for everyone or every dog!

If your dog is in otherwise good health, there’s absolutely no reason to feel guilty feeding your dog a commercial brand of dog food.

Obviously, choose the BEST FORMULA your budget can afford.

They’re NOT all created equal!

(And we’ll talk more about brand differences in a minute.)

But for now, remember that these commercial brands are, again, formulated by teams of veterinary nutritionists, paid top dollar, to help the reputable brands produce formulations that dogs THRIVE on.

Dog owners are VERY QUICK to switch brands if a dog food isn’t working for their dog.

Bellyaches, gas, diarrhea, allergic reactions, itchy skin, and bad breath…

… These are just a few side effects that quickly cause concern, and cause dog owners to switch dog food brands.  Often, complaining to family and friends while doing it!

It’s in the best interest of commercial dog food brands to produce the best possible product they can afford.

This means, again, provided you’ve done your brand research, you shouldn’t feel guilty about feeding your dog a commercial food vs. homemade dog food.

Making your own dog food can be VERY expensive, VERY time-consuming.

(You need to shop, prepare batches, keep it fresh in a separate fridge or freezer usually, make sure your dog’s next meal is thawed in time… and so on.)

It’s well documented the dog owners who feed these diets often neglect some aspect of their dog’s nutritional needs, accidentally, of course!

And this actually CAUSES health problems for their dogs.

And What About Supplements…?

I get asked a lot about supplements, too…

If you’re feeding your dog a single brand of commercial dog food, will he need supplements to make up for what he’s maybe not getting in his daily meals?

Again—if you’re feeding your dog a top-shelf brand that’s “complete and balanced,” with ingredients that work synergistically to produce the best possible health outcomes for your dog, and your dog is otherwise healthy, the no.  You don’t necessarily NEED to spend the extra money on supplements.

Of course, if it is in your budget, and your dog is aging (in need of joint supplements), is susceptible to anxiety (lots of anti-anxiety options available), or has other complex needs dictated by breed, age, or illness…

… Then you may wish to consider adding a daily supplement.

And if your dog is on some version of a homemade diet, you will need to supplement, too.

But again—if that’s not you, my best advice is:

First, invest in the best brand of commercial dog food you can afford.

Then, if you can afford it, consider supplements after that.

But don’t feel guilted into the buying supplements for a dog who is otherwise healthy!

How Do I Choose The BEST Brand Of Commercial Dog Food?

Choosing a brand of commercial dog food can be daunting…

You walk into your local big box pet store, and the options are literally overwhelming.  How do you choose?  You try to read the bag, but the bags are heavy and the fluorescent lighting is annoying and there are other people trying to get around you.

This bag looks nice. But so what?

Maybe you stop and ask an employee…?

If you visit a smaller, locally-owned store you might be lucky enough to speak with the business owner, who is probably somewhat knowledgeable about what brands customers prefer and their reasons why.

Otherwise, your “expert” is probably going to be a college kid making minimum wage.

Not the best source of advice for your dog’s health.

So back to the question:  how do you choose the BEST brand of commercial dog food?

For YOUR dog?

Step #1: Read The Label

I won’t lie to you … reading dog food labels is confusing.

But you should do it anyway.

At least scan the label to get a sense of what’s included.

All pet food labels are required to follow the same format as per the Association of American Feed Control Officials – so this will help you make sense of them a bit.

The American Kennel Club has written a good article about reading dog food labels here.

But the criteria that are MOST IMPORTANT, in my opinion, are:

1) The guaranteed analysis, which tells you how much of each nutrient a measured serving of the food contains.

2) The ingredients, which are listed in descending order by weight.

3) And, the nutritional adequacy statement, which must be back up by tests that PROVE the nutrient claims.

Something important to note, if a dog food claims to be “complete and balanced” or “100 percent nutritious” they must be able to back up their claims by meeting a very specific government standard.

It must contain the “proper amount and ratio of essential nutrients for the needs of a healthy dog.” (Source: AKC)

Again, not all dog foods are created equal, despite these regulations.

But it’s good to know there’s a minimum standard they must meet to make these claims!

Step #2:  Look Into Dog Food Recalls

I highly recommend looking up dog food recalls for any brand you’re choosing to feed your dog.

There are new recalls nearly every week, frequently for issues like salmonella contamination and high levels of molds.

This is a bit disheartening to see …

… Because unless you’re checking regularly, once you’re chosen a brand, you’ll probably never know there’s been a recall.

Which means you could be putting your dog at risk of serious health issues.

This is a good argument for choosing brands that can be purchased from the manufacturer and delivered straight to your home.

So if there’s been a recall, the brand can contact you directly.

Because they have your contact information!

Step #3:  Get Curious About Freshness  

Another important question to ask is:

How long does it take for your dog’s food to reach your home?

It’s important to realize that when you purchase a bag of dog food from a local retail store, it may not be “fresh,” just because it’s new to you.

It could already be 6 months to a FULL YEAR OLD!

So you need to ask:

* How long did it sit on the shelf in the store?

* How long was it in transport?

* Was it stored in shipping container or tractor trailer en route? (This is common.)

* Was it ever subjected to EXTREME temperatures during shipping?

* How long did it sit in the distribution center, prior to shipping?

Again, just because you bought the dog food at TODAY doesn’t mean it’s fresh.

Ask questions about where the food is coming from!

Step #4:  Look At The “Recipe” – What’s Included & What’s Missing?

There’s a science to dog food formulations that too many manufacturers overlook in favor of bigger marketing budgets and profits.

Yes, perhaps the ingredients tick the boxes for required proteins, fats, and carbohydrates.

But I encourage you to look beyond the “checklist”…

… And do a little research into whether or not the ingredients included work together, synergistically, for the best overall impact on your dog’s health and well being.

A simple example of this is folic acid, vitamin B6, and B12, which work together to reduce the level of an amino acid that is thought to lead to heart attacks and strokes.

While too much calcium can cause skeletal issues in larger breed puppies.

And too much Vitamin A can harm blood vessels and cause dehydration and joint pain.   (Source: Pets WebMD)

A good formulation has been studied for its overall of impact on your dog’s health.

Step #5:  Use This Dog Food Comparison Tool

Choosing a brand of commercial dog food is tricky business…

… Especially once you’ve been educated.

It’s like watching a documentary, like Supersize Me, and then trying to eat at fast-food restaurants.  Even if you still go, your perspective on what you’re eating and what it’s doing to your body is forever changed.

This was the dilemma I found myself in many years ago.

I wasn’t interested in feeding my dogs any of the homemade specialty diets.  (I tried feeding raw—it was messy, expensive, the learning curve was steep, and I was spending more time prepping food for my dogs than my kids, which was crazy.)

But I knew there were issues with feeding many of the so-called “best brands” of commercial dog food, too.  They’re not all created equal.

So I started doing my homework, looking for a dog food that checked all the boxes, with:

* High-quality proteins

* Species-specific animal fats

* Vitamins A, C & E

* Omega-3 Fatty Acids

* Prebiotics

* Probiotics

* No wheat or wheat gluten or corn or corn gluten-based products

Plus, a dog food with a SHORT distribution chain, so it was guaranteed to FRESH and SAFE when it arrived at my home.

And that’s how I was finally introduced to Life’s Abundance Dog Food.

Click Here To Try Their FREE Dog Food Comparison Tool. 

Too often great packaging hides inferior product.  So I encourage you to take a few minutes to use Life’s Abundance FREE Dog Food Comparison Tool.

See how the biggest brands stack up against each other.

I’ve been feeding my dogs Life’s Abundance for many years now, they’re a family-owned, third-generation dog food maker.  And I simply haven’t been able to find another brand that compares, both in price and formulation—and my dogs have been happy and healthy on their formulations.

All of their batches of dog food are produced in limited runs on a regular basis, so it doesn’t spend a lot of time sitting in bags, going stale, on pallets. And they ship straight from production to one of their six warehouses (strategically located around the United States to reduce shipping times). So when you order their food, it takes only 2-3 days to reach YOUR HOME.

Again, this is how they guarantee freshness.

Plus, if there’s ever an issue with a batch of food, they’re able to contact their customers directly, so you can finally stop worrying about recalls.

Of course, please don’t my word for it.

While I love that it’s also cheaper than most of the big brands (who doesn’t like save money), and it’s convenient (delivered to my door monthly), I have to say…

… What really sold me on Life’s Abundance dog food is the endless stream of new testimonials and success stories from dog owners and breeders that get added to their website almost daily.

You can read them here.

Over and over again you’ll read:

“This food was recommended to me by my breeder…”

“My dogs love the food…”

“He is growing so well…”

“His coat is full, shiny, and healthy…”

“My dog hasn’t had any mobility issues since we made the switch!”

“No more itchy skin…”

There were over 6,691 reviews as of today!  Probably more now, by the time this is published.  With an overall rating of 4.8 STARS with 6,691 customer reviews.

Again, I think this says something about the quality and commitment Life’s Abundance has to the happiness and health of our dogs.

So check them out.  Try their FREE Dog Food Comparison Tool HERE!

And even if you don’t, please do take a few minutes to Google Search YOUR dog’s food name for recalls.   And do this regularly.

If you’re not buying your dog food directly from the manufacturer, this is a risk.

P.S. By the way, I should mention that I am an affiliate of Life’s Abundance; after being a loyal customer of theirs for so many years, it only made sense to share my recommendations with you all.  So yes, I do earn a commission if you happen to purchase through these links, which helps support so of the free advice and training that I give away on the rest of our website.  Please let me know if you have any questions about their products. I obviously highly recommend them! 

Click Here To Try Their FREE Dog Food Comparison Tool. 

The post Dog Food Secrets… Exposed! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/34rh5u7 via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Training Multiple Dogs Together: Mistakes To Avoid & Success Secrets

I am the proud owner of multiple dogs.  I like having more than one dog and I’ve always had at least two since I was eighteen years old.

Growing up, my parents were reluctant to let me have ONE dog.  We finally got ONE dog, a Chow Chow, and I begged for another, but my mom always said, “then she’d be part of a pack and would need and love us less.”

I think this was just an excuse.

So anyway, when I moved out and got my own house, it wasn’t long before I owned two dogs.  The most I’ve ever had was four dogs; currently, I’ve got three living with me.

And it highlights for me, the more dogs you have, the more you must work at keeping them trained and bonded with you, not just with one another.

I’m frequently asked:  “How do you train more than one dog at a time?”

It’s a great question, because I know there are plenty of multi-dog homes out there.

So today we’ll discuss this important topic and I’ll offer you my thoughts:

Can You Train Two (Or More) Dogs Something NEW Together?

Dogs are like toddlers with fur; they have an excess of energy and they have a hard enough time concentrating when there are NO DISTRACTIONS.  You really have to work to build a good foundation to get control of your dog’s behaviors in distracting environments.

And, dogs are super competitive (just like toddlers) they really don’t like, nor do they want to share.  And when you put a couple of them together and try to train; they aren’t thinking about what they are doing they are anticipating you rewarding the other dog.

Dogs just can’t learn something with another or other dogs present; it just isn’t fair.  Even if you do train them this way it is going to take twice as long and not be as effective or build that strong foundation you are looking for.

Take those toddlers to a zoo and try and teach them something difficult like math or reading… do you think that would be an effective place for learning?

You never see a police dog trainer, or an assistance dog trainer trying to train a new dog with another new or even experienced dog (socializing is different).

Professionals know that dogs don’t learn as well together.

That is they can’t learn together while sharing the same handler, nor can the handler (or owner) give more than one dog the appropriate timing and attention.

I often giggle when I rewatch some of the videos I have shot for this program since I often let all my dogs hang out while I work with one of them.  I might ask for eye contact and focus or for the dog to sit and I see in the background my other dogs staring wildly at me or sitting when I ask, and yet I don’t see them at the time.  I am too busy focusing on the dog I am commanding.

In a dog that knows the command, this isn’t a big deal and he/she knows with whom I am working but when I am teaching a dog this is too distracting and confusing.

The Argument For Teaching Your Dog’s One At A Time

I separate my dogs when I am teaching one of them something new.  I put everybody else in a crate or outside or separate into another room and I work one dog at a time.  This way they have my full concentration and their little minds aren’t spinning about who else might steal “THEIR” cookie.  They don’t have to worry about giving stink eye, or stiffening or growling when cookies are shared; they can simply concentrate on the command I am teaching.  And later, once they have learned the command they are much less possessive over treats.

And, I can give my full attention to one dog and notice the millisecond that he/she makes a positive step toward the behavior and this gives the dog clearer communication and the ability to succeed.

It also allows me to bond with each of them separately as individuals.  I don’t want my dogs to be overly reliant on one another.  I have had several dogs come and go and get cancer and die and I don’t want my other dogs to not know how to function without the other.  This training gives them individual attention and shows them how much fun spending time with me can be!

Do my other dogs throw fits when I take another out… sometimes… but I don’t mind; to me that tells me they are excited because they know their turn will be next!  If I really hated it, I could teach them to be quiet when I leave with another dog.

When It’s Appropriate To Train Them TOGETHER

Is it EVER a good idea to train your dogs together?

Yes and no.

No, I cannot effectively teach them something NEW when I have more than one.

Yes, I can put them together once they have learned the behavior and understand what I want and then I can ask them to perform the behavior together.  I often take all 3 dogs for a walk, but I taught them leash manners and heel separately!

Some people ask me if they can use their dogs AGAINST each other in training, to speed it along.

Hahaha  YES!!!  Let me explain.

Dogs often get to a place in their training where it is almost as if they challenge you to “Make Them” perform for you; and this is when I like to bring in another dog.  First I must know that they understand the behavior but are simply choosing not to perform it for me!

Then I bring in dog number 2 (who needs to know the command) and ask them to do it for me, and if he does he gets jackpotted and a whirlwind of praise and affection (provided there will be no dog fight instigated over this).

When I trained Service Dogs they all had to learn to retrieve and retrieve basically anything including metal, which tastes icky.  And, so when they decided they really didn’t like that item and would not do it I would bring in NIX.  He would do anything for a cookie and he would immediately retrieve the item and give it to me and I would very blatantly give him a HUGE treat and love on him for compliance while ignoring the other dog.

I would then have him do it a few more times until the other dog was frustrated and leaping for the fallen item.  Problem solved!!!  This almost always made these obstinate dogs decide they wanted to work for me!

Sometimes you just need to take a step back and look at it from their point of view and understand how much individual attention they need!

Once you do that, your dog training gets so much easier!

The post Training Multiple Dogs Together: Mistakes To Avoid & Success Secrets appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3jWniEz via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

7 Reasons Why Your Dog “Kisses” You

If you enjoy kissing, hugging, and just generally snuggling your dog, you’re not alone!

It’s very common for humans to express their affection for one another with smooches and squeezes. And there’s nothing quite as wonderful as having your favorite canine furball snuggled up in your arms while you’re watching television or just relaxing on the couch.

But while we humans ENJOY expressing our affection with kisses…

… It’s important to take a step back and observe your dog:

Does your dog ENJOY being kissed and hugged?

When he licks you, is he expressing his affection for you?

Or is he perhaps communicating something else?

7 Reasons Why Dogs “Kiss” You

Reason #1: Instinct

First and foremost, it’s important to recognize that dogs who lick each other (and humans) are often doing so out of instinct.

You can TEACH a dog to “kiss” as a show of affection.

(Or, at least, kiss to receive positive attention from you.)

But it’s essential to understand the licking we interpret as “kisses” from our dogs could be fulfilling a wide range of purposes.

Reason #2: Learning About Their Environment

Similar to sniffing, dogs learn about their environment through licking. Whether it’s to gather more information about where you’ve been without him or to enjoy a taste of what you had for lunch off your fingers, dogs lick to explore and understand.

Reason #3: Greeting Between Dogs

Dogs will lick one another as a form of greeting.

Frequently you’ll see the dog who is more submissive showing deference to the more dominant dog trough licking.

It’s another way of demonstrating their submission.

So when your dog is licking you, he may be showing his deference to you.

Reason #4: Sign Of Affection Between Dogs

Yes, dogs ALSO lick one another to demonstrate affection…

So YES, there’s an argument to be made that your dog is KISSING you, too!

Just be cautious because, as you can see, dog kisses are more complex forms of communication than many people understand…

… If you misinterpret a dog’s body language and lean in to kiss the top of his head or cheek, you could be setting yourself up for a bite!

Reason #5: Prevent A Fight

A submissive dog might lick a more dominant dog to de-escalate a situation and prevent a fight.

If the dog is particularly stressed, the licking may indicate a level of discomfort and anxiety that could lead to a BITE.

This is another reason not to let children hug or kiss other people’s dogs. Or, perhaps, even your own family dog!

Reason #6: For Pleasure

Licking is a pleasurable activity for dogs; endorphins are released.

This is why some dogs develop impulse control issues around licking and become obsessed with repetitive licking.

(If you need help curbing this nuisance behavior, check out Impulse Control, which deals with compulsive licking, among other things like barking, chewing, jumping, etc.)

Reason #7: A Sign Of Stress

Licking can be a sign of stress …

By licking you, your dog is trying to “de-escalate” a situation.

Pay close attention to other body language cues, because if your dog’s boundaries pushed any further, the situation could escalate to shows of aggression.

If the dog is particularly submissive, it could escalate quickly to a BITE.

Because the dog is warning you to BACK OFF.

What Does Your Dog THINK When You Kiss Him?

As you can see…

… Licking as a form of communication between dogs can be more complicated than expressing simple affection.

That’s why, especially with strange or less familiar dogs, offering hugs and kisses isn’t a good idea.

And children should be taught to NEVER hug or kiss dogs.

Even the dogs we live with may not enjoy this kind of attention…

Or TOO MUCH of this kind of attention.

A child can easily miss the warning signs when a dog’s boundaries are pushed too far, and the family pet who often accepts kisses from YOU may suddenly turn and nip or BITE a child who they view as inferior to them.

Some dogs will ALWAYS jockey for pack position in a family home, especially with small children.

Our children could be one hug away from a bite to the face if it turns out we’re misreading our dogs.

Can Dogs Be Taught To Enjoy Hugs & Kisses?

Yes, some dogs—raised by your family, from puppyhood—can be taught to see giving and receiving kisses as a positive show of affection.

But just a children’s temperaments are different, some are shy while others are more extrovert, some are more outgoing while others hang back, dogs are different too.

Breed traits combined with individual personality traits mean that some dogs will NEVER enjoy receiving kisses and hugs, because they view it as a show of dominance.

Dogs adopted as adults from rescues or even other homes should be handled with care…

Approach with caution until you’re certain the dog ENJOYS these displays of affection from you.

Certainly, never allow a CHILD to hug or kiss your adult adopted/rescue.

(You can never know the history.)

But of course, dogs are smart!

And they can learn from your positive feedback that you enjoy their licks and kisses, and they can learn to do this to get positive attention and affection from you.

If you’ve raised a dog from a puppy, he’s more likely to be in tune with your kisses and enjoy them.

Older, adopted dogs may have trust issues—and triggers—that make kissing and hugging them riskier.

Again: approach adopted dogs more carefully and be observant.

Don’t allow children to risk a bite. And certainly, avoid allowing people and children from outside your home to hug and kiss your dog.

Safety first!

The post 7 Reasons Why Your Dog “Kisses” You appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3gnNxRT via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Scent Work: Training Your Dog To Track

Dogs are amazing!  They have amazing noses and the ability to detect or use scent.  A dog’s nose is 100,000 times better than yours!  Even your pup has this amazing ability.

And scent work can be very rewarding for dogs!

So, let us talk about getting started on how to teach your dog to track!  Because any dog can be taught this skill… even if your dog doesn’t know much basic obedience yet!

German Shepherd, Blood Hound, Belgian Malinois, Dachshund, Shih Tzu… breed doesn’t matter.

My experience comes from both teaching Service Dogs how to find lost items (like their owner’s dropped or missing cell phone or the remote) and it also comes from learning from seasoned and skilled trainers who trialed and titled in Schutzhund.  And, it comes from going to classes taught by expert police dog trainers and others whose jobs insist on good tracking!  I have taken a bit from all of these experiences to best teach my dogs.  taken a bit from all of these experiences to best teach my dogs.

The American Kennel Club also offers titles in tracking for dog training.   And your dog doesn’t have to be a German Shepherd to play this game or get a title.  Even mixed breeds of all shapes and sizes and ages can engage.

How To Start Training Your Dog To Track

I have worked with some amazing tracking and scent detection trainers!  You should see what goes into having an explosives or a drug detection dog!  It is pretty easy if you are willing to put in the time for how to teach your dog to track.

Thankfully, tracking is slightly less tedious for owner and dog!

Personally, I like to start by teaching my dog that he has a nose.

Yes, that’s right, you need to teach your dog he has a nose! It sounds ridiculous, even as I type it!  But just because he has the ability doesn’t mean he knows how to use it or that he knows how to control it.

I have many owners that tell me their dog already gives them eye contact (since one of my big things is teaching eye contact on command), but as I say, if you can’t control it; why does it matter?  That is like saying my dog “sits”… but if he doesn’t “sit” on command, what use is it for you as an owner?  NONE

So, let’s teach him!

Supplies You’re Going To Need

Low salt, no butter popcorn or air-popped popcorn as a treat

Cans of sardines for ultimate treats

Liver treats or other good smelling treats

A 6-foot leash

A 10-foot leash or 25-foot leash

Buckle collar

A squirt bottle

Distilled water

Rubber boots (these aren’t 100% necessary) but when you begin laying tracks for your dog in the morning you will appreciate your feet not getting wet!

A few lawn flags

A crate (will be best)!

The First Steps… Teaching Your Dog He Has A Nose

I prefer to begin training with popcorn as a treat!  I mean, who doesn’t physically and emotionally get stimulated by the smell of popcorn?  Personally, I like an air popper.  I can pop, popcorn with 0 salt or butter because neither are good for your dog!  So, if you do use microwave, then use low salt no butter.  These make better treats.

First, I toss a piece that my dog can see and I say “find it” insert whatever command you want…. Track, find, search or whatever you like.  He sees it, easily, which is another reason I prefer popcorn and gobbles it down.  We do this a few times.  He associates “search” with popcorn and a snack and seeing me toss it!  It’s fun!  There is literally 0 negatives to what we are doing.  We do this many times, to build a good foundation.

When I say “find it” he begins looking for his treat, this is what I want!  This will help you train your dog for the eventual behavior.

Next, I distract him and toss a treat behind me (don’t make it difficult to find) that he can’t see, and I ask him to “find it”.  At first, he is confused, because he can’t see you toss the popcorn but he soldiers on and looks and sniffs because he has associated popcorn with the command, until he is successful.  This begins his journey into using his nose and not his eyes.

Up until now he has used his nose, but he hasn’t really learned how to use it on cue or on command.

He hasn’t really learned to develop his ability to control his nose or use it for training!

Next Steps… Increasing The Challenge

So the next step is to make it more and more challenging…

Often, I use a 6-foot leash in the house, so that I can control where he is and make sure he doesn’t see where I am tossing the popcorn.  Again, this is 100% positive; it is nothing but a fun game for your dog so of course he is going to be excited to play whenever you ask him to engage in further training!  A leash gives you better control and also desensitizes him to a leash indoors it also helps you engage him when he is distracted.  Because distractions are likely to happen outside as well.

Any dog owner can play this game and it is the foundation to all of my scent work. You can train your dog this way!  It’s fun!

How to Start Training Your Dog To Track HUMAN Footsteps

This next section is going to sound “odd” to you at first, but I promise it works.

Dozens of years ago, I was at the week worth of lectures put on by the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT)

I have always had an affinity for police dogs and working dogs in particular and the training it involves.  One of my opportunities was learning from a great trainer named Steve White, He was continually seeing problems with police dogs being able to search for human scent on hard pavement.  Grass is easy, but tracking a missing child or a criminal or any human scent over hard surfaces is difficult.  These surfaces don’t hold scent for very long, like grass does.

The action of the human breaking the strands of grass, adds to the scent for your dog!  Don’t worry, I am not going to expect you to train on hard surfaces, you can stick to grass but I wanted to incorporate his methods into my Schutzhund tracking.  Any dog owner can teach these tools.

He came up with the idea of “scent in a bottle” (this is why you need the squirt bottle) to help the dog adjust to more difficult surfaces and solidify WHAT he is tracking.

Typically, when teaching or training a dog to track we scratch a track with our feet and add delicious food in each foot step.  So, in the dog’s mind; are they learning to track food or are they learning to track human scent?  I think it takes them a while to figure that out but if you use “scent in a bottle” you are overwhelming them with a lot of human scent which better helps them to understand what you want and that they aren’t just seeking food.

Preparing To Train With “Scent in a Bottle”

So what I need you to do, is going to sound a little gross to you… but your dog is going to love it!  Pick a T-shirt a pair of socks, underwear (ha ha) I don’t care and wear it with no deodorant, which masks your smell of course, and do some yard work or sleep in whatever you choose.  The idea, unfortunately, is to get a bit stinky so your dog will easily recognize your human scent from others.  Don’t go crazy!  But your dog needs some real human scent to help him appreciate what you are about to try and teach him.

Once your item is stinky enough, put it in distilled water.  Water from the faucet has some chemicals and fluoride in some countries and other things that will break down your scent.  Then ring it, and put it in a squirt bottle.

We will spray our shoes prior to each track or training session, in the beginning.  This solidifies that you are communicating better with your dog.  Your scent is going to be much more overwhelming to him and he is also going to find food treats!

Take Your Scent Work and Training Outside!

Your dog has already learned how to use his sniffer through finding treats in your home.

Taking It Outside

Next, it is time to take him outside to teach him the first step of actual tracking.

Tracking should be done first thing in the morning, before your dog has breakfast.  This is why I recommend rubber boots, otherwise your shoes will get soaked by morning dew.  And, they should be truly hungry for this to work well.  Remember this is mostly a new skill!  New for both of you!

You should crate your dog and prepare to build a “scent box” first.

A “scent box” is a 4×4 or so foot area where you are trying to teach your dog the exact scent you want him sniffing to find.

Take your flag and your boots and your scent in a bottle, treats, and sardines.

Spray your shoes only when you get out to the spot you want to train and place the flag to the very right side of the track.  The dog will be on the left so the flag should be on the right.  The flag is for YOU to know where your scent box or track has been laid.  YOU have to bring your dog to the right place.

Spray your shoes, set your flag in the ground to the right, and begin scratching around with your feet and kicking and trying to lay a box-shaped area of broken grass and scent.  At first, you want to place not easily seen treats (no popcorn) this should be challenging into that scent box.  Be generous in the beginning!  This should be rewarding!!!  Don’t make your dog sick but put small cut up hot dogs or pieces of liver every several inches.  Once you are done with this process, I want you to JUMP over to the right-hand side away from the box you just laid and walk far around the area.

The reason we do this is so the dog doesn’t immediately follow your scent out of the box without reward.  We want to communicate effectively and continue making this fun without confusion, at least to the best of our ability.

Wait about 5 to 10 minutes before getting your dog.  Let that scent soak into the ground and mingle with those treats you left.  Put a can of sardines in your pocket.

Next, go get your dog out of his crate put his 6 ft leash on and get him really excited!  We don’t usually do this in most training, but this is an activity your dog should LOVE.  Tap his chest, ask him if he wants to go tracking and get excited with him as you lead on his leash him toward the area.

Take him around to the front of the scent box.  Hopefully you can see where you stomped the grass or laid the scent box in the dew.  Remember your flag is just to the right of the edge of it.

Have him sit if you can (this is really the only basic obedience he needs), sling his leash between his front legs and behind his right leg.  As you do so point toward the ground and give him the command or cue that you have been using.  Allow him to pull forward and sniff.  Slinging his leash between his front legs helps to keep his head down and the pressure off pulling hard against you.  I do NOT like a harness, this puts you too far behind the dog and doesn’t encourage the head being down.

In tracking, we allow controlled pulling on the leash, it is actually what we want.  Most training should be controlled with no pulling at all, but you are going to want your dog to move out in front of you during this type of training.  You may quietly praise as he finds and eats treats, but stand quietly and allow him to track mostly on his own.  If he lifts his head, or sees a distraction quietly point toward the box and give his command again.  We want that snout glued into the scent box and slowly discovering treats.  Don’t get too excited at this point; this will draw his face out of the scent.  Just allow him to methodically search.

Once you are fairly certain he has found most of the treats, open the can of sardines and give it as a final reward.  We use sardines because they are smelly and they are a very high reward.  Pat his ribs and praise him and then lead him back inside.  Put up your boots and your scent in a bottle.

Do this for at least a week, and try to do it daily.

Laying Your First Real Track

I want to teach your dog to track from footstep to footstep with his nose deep in the track.  Air scenting is not as challenging or fun for either of you!  Air scenting also means your dog is much more likely to pull because he is much less controlled or methodical.

Begin by picking an object in front of you that you can line up straight with, being STRAIGHT is crucial.  So pick a tree, a fence post, a bench.  We are only going to lay a short straight track of about 20 feet.  Be sure you have 2 flags.

Begin the process as described above, laying your scent box.  Put that flag to the right and move to the middle of the box and find that object you are going to move toward.  Begin dragging your feet and moving in a straight path towards it.  In each footstep, lay a treat.  One in the left foot step and one in the right foot step; so about every foot there will be a treat on one side or another.  Drag and stomp at first to get that scent in that track, this is your dog’s first track!

When you reach approximately 20 feet drop the can of sardines and place the flag right behind it.  This flag is to help orient you.

Now, jump off the track; walk around and wait your 5 to 10 minutes for that scent to settle into the track.

Go get your dog, get him excited and follow what you have been doing with the scent box. Sling that leash under his front legs!  Once he has found the treats, make sure your dog is directly in front of that straight patch and give the command to search again.  If his head comes up or there is a distraction quietly point to the track and let his nose do the work.  Remember he will be going back and forth a bit now from footstep to footstep.

Let his nose do the work.  You can’t really teach him this, you can only support him.  If his head moves off of the track, stop moving completely and wait for a few moments, if he doesn’t engage on his own slowly point to the ground and give the command again.  Don’t let him move much further in front of you than his body length at first.  This way you can slowly stop and help him, if he needs it.  But please try to let him work it out on his own.

When he gets to the end, praise and pat his sides again!  This should be a fun process!

Continue To Increase The Level Of Difficulty

Keep things simple for a long time!  Train like this for weeks before trying an added difficulty level and only try one at a time.

Typically, I move to longer straight tracks 30 feet, 40 feet, etc.

Let him move out to the end of his 6-foot leash… so about 5.5 feet in front of you.  Allow him to do more problem-solving.  If you like this sport typically the dog will track 10 feet or more in front of you.

Then, I do more walking and less dragging of my feet.  After several weeks he should have gotten the idea.

Next less treats in the scent box.

Then, I stagger the treats a little further on the track, for example instead of every foot, every 2 feet etc.

You can also begin to age the track longer up to 20 or 30 minutes.

Then, begin to drop the amount of scent in a bottle and just use your regular boots.

If you enjoy this article and this process I let us know and I can update you on how to do corners and later add articles to your track to have your dog indicate.  But for now keep your tracks straight.

If you move too quickly, you will both get frustrated but you will have trouble as a human understanding what is confusing him because you don’t have his nose

This can be time-consuming but this is a great behavior to teach and have in and under your control!  And, it can become more and more difficult as time progresses.  And you can even title him through the American Kennel Club.

  The post Scent Work: Training Your Dog To Track appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3iWQlag via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Help! My Dog Hates My Husband!

I get this question more often than you would actually believe!

And I must be honest it isn’t always the “husband” sometimes it is the “wife” or even the kids or everyone “else” in the family.  Often I think it is the husband or the male because they tend to be slightly less nurturing than the woman in the relationship, but it certainly works both ways!

The problem is that these dogs can ruin relationships.

They can also end up in shelters or die because of their abusive relationships.

You see, THEY are the abusers.

They often sit in the lap of their “chosen” (person) and growl, hackle, and threaten to bite anyone who might trespass or get anywhere near.

Imagine having a child or an “X” sitting on your lap and anytime another person came up to hug you, sit next to you, or talk to you (including other family) they flashed a switchblade.  Now imagine they chased the person away with the switchblade, or even lightly cut them.

I think that would be a problem, don’t you?

And, most people would never accept this behavior from another person or child right?  The authorities would be called and the person removed and undoubtedly prosecuted.

Yet, owners put up with this from their beloved pets.

Both the one being “protected” or possessed and the person or people being abused act like it is no big deal when it comes from something with fur and teeth (instead of a switchblade).

You see, most often the person whose lap it is thought the dog is “protecting them” or the other person thinks the dog is “protecting the spouse” but actually the dog is guarding what he considers a “resource” or possessing the person (not nearly as fairytale-like as people like to think) for more on that click here.

Step One:  Stop Making Excuses

This leads straight into step one, which is to stop vindicating the behavior, making excuses or enabling the dog.

Start seeing him for what he is; an abuser!  Remember the analogy with the switchblade…

You can’t make a true change if you’re empowering, enabling, and making excuses for the behavior.

And, if you don’t make true change you might lose your family and your dog might lose his life.

What will happen if the wrong person or child approaches you and this dog?  Bites often lead to euthanasia!

So even if you aren’t making this hard decision to change for your family; make it for your dog who might die if you allow this behavior to continue.

Step Two: Take Away Privileges

Life and amenities are a privilege, treat them as such.

If your child breaks a rule or takes advantage of you and your spouse what happens?

I hope that you say he/she loses a privilege.

The same rules should apply to dogs, especially those who are having aggression issues.

And, yes, threatening to bite your family and spouse is aggression!  Embrace it and call it what it is (this goes back to enabling and not making excuses).  If your neighbor’s dog was trying to bite YOU, you would call it aggression, yes?

If the aggression is severe and anyone is afraid of being severely bitten or there are young children involved a veterinary behaviorist should be involved.  For more on that click here

Provided That You Are Not Worried About A Bite, Continue Reading:

Aggressive dogs, those who are looking to possess you or threatening someone who approaches should NOT be allowed on furniture.

Being on the bed is a privilege.

Being on the couch is a privilege.

Being in your lap is a privilege!

And, dogs who bite, growl, hackle, bark or threaten people should not get these privileges.   Period!  I am all for well behaved dogs to be on the furniture, but I will be the first to say that dogs with aggression issues should never get this privilege; it gives them “little man or little dog syndrome” and plays into their idea that they should rule the house or the world.

Step Three:  The Person Being “Possessed” Needs To Separate Themselves

The person that these dogs idolize or “possess” should back off in their lives!

This is probably one of the hardest things for everyone involved.

For some reason, people who are seemingly the “apple of these dogs’ eyes”  have a really hard time giving that up.

But it is critical!

This person needs to step back, and the other person (the person that has been bullied) needs to step up.

The loved person needs to hardly interact with the dog at all, and the hated person needs to be in charge of all things essential and all things fun.

The Dog Must Be Forced To Interact & Depend On The Person They Dislike

It would stand to reason if you had to see the same people every day, or had to live with them chances are they would grow on you over time.   Even if you didn’t like them, you would find something to like about them (okay, not always but mostly).

But sometimes dogs bond to ONE PERSON and they feel like they don’t need anyone or anything else in their lives.

We must convince them that they are wrong.

The person who is hated must feed the dog, they must walk the dog, they should try to engage in play with the dog; all while the other person mostly ignores the dog.

You see even if the other person does all of these things and the person the dog loves still cuddles and loves on the dog, the dog can still see no real need for the other person.

In order for a real bond to occur between the once detested person and the dog, the person the dog seemingly loves or possesses must kind of break ties.

It doesn’t mean FOREVER but the person needs to ignore the dog almost completely.

Respect The Need For A Bond To Form–Let It Happen

Let me paint a picture for you.

I used to train Service Dogs.

I worked for several organizations, but one particular organization had a very high success rate and I believe I know why.

This organization did not allow any of the other family member to interact with the new Service Dog, really at all (unless the disabled person required it for maintenance like baths, nail trims, etc.), for at least a month.

You see, if the dog went home with their new partner and discovered that the “mom” always fed, petted, and loved on the dog while never giving commands, who would the dog bond to, right? The disabled partner was requiring work and effort from the dog for treats and affection.  They were making the dog work.

By not allowing the other family members to interact with the dog, the dog was given the opportunity to bond to the person that would be their forever partner and the family was given time to understand the need for this bond and respect it.

I believe the same must happen with these possessive pets.

They have to learn to NEED the other person in the home or relationship.

They need to be fed, they need to be watered, they need to be walked and they need to be trained and interacted with; if this is only coming from one source it stands to reason that the person now doing this would become more important.

The good news for those of you that might be panicking that YOUR dog will never love YOU again is that this is a silly thought.  Of course he will. Once you step back in and do the occasional cuddle after he has bonded with the other person, he will still love you!  He will still undoubtedly be YOUR dog but in order to be a happy family he has to learn to love other people!

Step Four:  Train The Dog

I say it in all my articles   but it is true!

Obedience is also important.

It is important to be able to control these dogs.

It is crucial to be able to give them commands that they will obey.

You should not have to feel that you are at the whim of a dog!

If the dog shows aggression, you should be able to give a command and have the dog comply!

I feel that the person who is disliked should take a class with the dog.  Not the old fashioned: “Yank Them and Make Them” class but a fun positive reinforcement class.   A class where they can have fun and build a bond, will change their relationship!

Because good obedience should be fun and rewarding for everyone involved!

The post Help! My Dog Hates My Husband! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3fcVJnG via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

My Dog Would Never Bite… And Other Lies.

I have been a dog trainer for over twenty-five years now…

Yikes, I feel old saying that!   But it’s true…

And I mention this because I have to admit: what I believed was true about dog aggression at 20 versus 45 years of age has changed… a LOT!

I have trained police dogs… worked in a bite suit… and seen the purest forms of dog aggression.  With so much experience that I now see the very subtle changes in a dog’s countenance and behavior right before he bites.

So much that the hairs on the back of my neck stand up when I see certain changes in a dog’s behavior…

… Changes that my coworkers in veterinary medicine never notice.

I remember about a year ago, a two-year-old Cane Corso came to our clinic.  I was the “room tech” so I greeted him and his mom, put them in a room, and discussed what he was due for that year.  The dog was admittedly nervous, sitting in his mom’s lap, but he seemed alright.

He was due for a heartworm test.  A heartworm test requires a tiny blood sample and most owners don’t want to watch you poke their dog in the jugular with a needle.

So I took the dog, on leash, to the back treatment area to meet one of my coworkers.

As I put him into a “sit” and my coworker got on her knees to draw his blood, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up.

There was a slight change in his behavior, he stiffened.

Doesn’t sound like much, but it can be a telling warning sign.

I suggested a muzzle, to which a few of my coworkers scoffed.  But I was always a better safe than sorry tech.

He did okay, he survived; I took him back to the room and his “mom”.

But when the vet entered the room he lunged and tried to bite her face. 

Thankfully, I was her technician and already didn’t trust the dog and was prepared for aggression.

Point of the story?  Signs of aggression aren’t always easily spotted until the aggressive behavior turns into a dangerous dog bite.

Even after the lunging episode at the vet and the near bite, the owner was in denial.  She didn’t want her dogs muzzled (which I completely don’t understand since a muzzle is better than a reported dog bite and a mauling) and she was praising and cooing to her dog as he growled and snarled when he got his vaccines.

Listen To What Your Dog Is Telling You… Before He BITES!

At this stage in my career, I rarely pull punches.  At 20 years of age, I would have sugar-coated to this dog’s owner that perhaps they could use some training with this dog and perhaps she shouldn’t reward him while he is growling.

At 45 years of age, I will tell you that this dog is going to bite someone, badly, and likely need euthanasia if the owner doesn’t get the aggression and the fear under control.

People often start a conversation off with:

“Don’t worry… He would never actually bite…”

“He is sweet at home.”

“He has never acted like that…”

“He was a rescue…”

… These are some of my first indicators that the dog has AGGRESSION ISSUES!

Let us be honest.

If you find yourself making excuses that sound like these… you’re in denial… lying to yourself.

Nobody Wants To Admit Their Dog Is AGGRESSIVE…

Nobody wants to have the “bad dog” …

… Or the dog that needs a muzzle … or the dog with aggression issues.

But just because your dog has “never bitten” doesn’t mean he never will.  And if you’re already making excuses for borderline behaviors that are making you NERVOUS around your dog… Or, you’re brushing off or soothing other people’s concerns about your dog…

… I must warn you:

You’re risking the safety and lives of other people and kids.

You’re risking the safety and lives of other dogs.

And you’re the life of YOUR DOG!

(Who may be euthanized if he bites, attacks, or mauls someone.)

It is always better to err on the side of caution than to have a dog bite or maul a human or another dog.

It’s Always Better To Be SAFE Than SORRY…

At one clinic I worked at; one of our technicians almost got bit in the face.  She was young and new as a veterinary technician and she was down on her knees in front of an aggressive dog (something I rarely if ever do without a muzzle).  Thankfully, as the dog lunged for her face, the owner intervened and blocked the attack with his arm.  The dog had never bitten before, but left the owner with huge gashes.

Even though the dog bit his OWNER… the bite had to be reported… the dog quarantined… and the dog was added to the “dangerous dogs” list.

It would have been so much easier to just have the owner muzzle the dog.

People get so wrapped up in what other people may think of them, or their dog.  They don’t want us to judge them or to blame them, or to hate their dog.

The truth is that what other people think literally doesn’t matter at all.  People tend to be a judgmental and will judge you for the shoes that you wear or the car that you drive, so why would you care about how they feel about your dog?

Stop Caring What Others Think And Protect Your Dog

We need to stop caring what others think and protect ourselves and our dogs.

If your dog is fearful… skittish… anxious…. or aggressive… teach your dog to HAPPILY wear a muzzle.

Keep your dog from putting his life on the line.  Keep him from having a true aggressive experience.

I don’t care if he has never bitten anyone before. I understand that you love him and 90% of the time he is a great companion.  No dog is aggressive 100% of the time.  Most dogs are only sporadically aggressive.  Most often, he is your best friend.

But believe him when he warns you.

The Warning Signs:  Your Dog Is Getting Ready To Bite

Staring/Hard Eyes: Dogs don’t usually stare unless they are stimulated or overstimulated.  When your dog sees a squirrel, he likely stares because of prey drive.  His eyes lock on and he stares at his prey.  Equally, when a dog stares at another dog or a human, his pupils will often grow and harden.  Instead of sweet squishy face, his countenance changes.

Freezing/Stiffening: His countenance changes and then his body freezes or stiffens waiting for impending attack.  Both of these warning signs are often ignored by owners and even those in the field.  But, these are usually the first signs that make most of us on a primary and instinctual level take note or feel uneasy.  I remember reading a book called “The Gift of Fear” in which the author begs you to listen to that prehistoric part of your brain that is telling you something is wrong.  Don’t get on the elevator with a person if your amygdala is telling you not to.  Who cares what people think.  Listen to your instincts, don’t push that aside and wait for a serious injury.

Wide eyes (a.k.a. “whale eyes”):  The “whale eye” is a real thing.  I first heard the term maybe 20 years ago from a trainer and expert in the dog bite field named Sue Sternberg.  She studied dogs in shelters and performed temperament tests in order to adopt out adoptable dogs while euthanizing those with aggression. As she explained; right before a dog bites he often looks to the side so that you can see the whites of his eyes (whale eye).  Nothing showed me this phenomenon quite as clearly as being in a dog bite suit.  Over and over, I could see the dogs look to the side and then bite.  It is an interesting phenomenon for sure.  So, when I see the whites of a dog’s eyes, I know I am moments away from an actual bite.  But how many people know that?

Hackles up/Growling/Barking/Lunging/Hiding/Snarling: These are all indicators that your dog is uncomfortable!  He is trying to communicate this to you with his body language. By ignoring or rationalizing these behaviors … or worse, making excuses… you are setting him up for a BIGGER SHOW of aggression — potentially a bite!  These signs tell us your dog is uncomfortable and emotionally triggered.

Don’t Let It Get This Far!

Your dog doesn’t have the ability to understand the repercussions of his aggressive behavior.

He is simply reacting, trying to stop behavior he finds stressful or triggering.  And maybe, he’s already received positive reinforcement for these aggressive behaviors.  He’s learned, for example, if he growls when someone tries to pet him, the person backs away.  Or if he barks, people jump back.

He sees these “smaller” acts of aggression getting results.

So it’s only a matter of time before he escalates to a BIGGER SHOW of aggression… when people or dogs don’t respond as he expects to the smaller acts of aggression.

Lunging… biting… mauling.  That’s what’s next.

Will you let it get that far?  Or will you act to prevent aggressive behaviors now?

The 8 Types Of Dog Aggression

When we talk about aggression or aggressive behavior we often talk about Fight or Flight.  When challenged will you stand and fight or will you give up or run?  What happens if you run but can’t get away or your aggressor continues the aggressive behavior?  Will you resort to violence and fighting then?

Aggression training has a few vital components that are important to understand!

#1 – Forward Aggression

Forward aggression is outright aggression or confident aggression.  This has no components of fear aggression.

When the dog is aggressive it is making a conscious and bold choice toward the behavior.   When I think about this kind of aggression I picture the perfect police or protection dog (Belgian Malinois or German Shepherd).  They assess the situation and are confident in their aggression.  And, although this is a dangerous dog, this kind of aggression is fairly rare without extreme training or having something wrong physically (think seizure disorder) and genetic conditions.

Occasionally I hear from dog owners or young puppy owners whose puppies are showing extreme and confident aggression at a very young age.  This is not normal, and usually means there is something wrong genetically or mentally.  This is when I often recommend the help or assistance of a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.  Why?  Because a veterinary behaviorist can help not only with behavior modification training but they can also prescribe medications.

Be aware, anyone can call themselves a “behaviorist”, only seek those with a veterinary degree and who went to school for several more years to attain.  Often, veterinary behaviorists then utilize good positive professional dog trainer to help with that behavior modification schedule.

#2 – Prey Aggression

Prey aggression is exactly as it sounds.  This is the desire to chase and hunt.  Again, this is a very forward behavior.

Most dogs will exhibit SOME form of predatory behavior… but some dogs have MORE prey drive than others.

(Especially some working breeds.)

Extreme predatory behavior and prey drive can be hard to control.  There’s an old saying:  “Once a dog tastes blood, you will never break him from killing.”  True or not, the challenge is that chasing and killing other animals is FUN for many dogs, due to their predatory instincts.

When we train police dogs and protection dogs, we train them mostly by building their prey drive, letting them chase and bite and then building their confidence.  We often begin this training at anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks of age.  We allow them to win and conquer and build that confidence so that they believe they can win any war against human aggression even when conflict arises, they are taught how to battle.   We also work with their feelings of “possession” or possession aggression.  Once they have bitten the assailant, we want them to hang on and possess that person.  We teach them to possess and defend what they win.

Essentially these dogs are taught and molded toward this forward aggression.  These are ALL of the things you want to avoid with pet dog training!

#3 – Possession Aggression

Possession aggression is often a more forward type of aggression.  It can be genetic, as I have seen 6-week-old puppies with severe aggressive possessive behaviors that can only be explained by genetics.

But often this dog behavior arises from some conflict with the dog owner.   The dog or puppy, steals something that he should not have and the owner chases him down and snatches it out of his mouth.  The behavior also often comes with a reprimand verbally and sometimes often physically.  These encounters fill the dominant dog or puppy with hostility and anger.

Imagine going to school every day and having the school bully hit you in the face and take your dessert.  If you were submissive, you would give it up.  But if you were confident and a little bit dominant you might decide to fight.  Day after day you are filled with rage until one day you stand up for yourself and prepare to fight.

This is how your puppy or dog feels when you snatch “his things or the things that he wants.”  And, then if he snarls or growls, most dog owners will stop their forward behavior.  This teaches the dog that their aggressive behavior keeps that conflict away and they win!

Winning brings confidence, and confidence backed by aggression in dogs often brings more severe aggression the next time.

Keep the dog on leash and teach him appropriately how to give up things and exchange.

#4 – Territorial Aggression

Dogs who are more dominant in nature will often exhibit guarding behaviors… and be territorial about their property, their people, and objects/items they perceive as belonging to them.

This form of aggression can be both FORWARD and DEFENSIVE.

But most often it is blatant with no component of fear.  This dog will bite you for coming on his property or coming in his home.  He may even bite you for touching or coming near his owner.  He sees these things as HIS THINGS, to be defended.

Plus, it’s important to be aware that guarding behaviors can be FUN for dogs.  It breaks boredom and gives them something “fun” to do–which can make it DANGEROUS as it becomes a habit or even an addiction in some cases.

#5 – Defensive Aggression

Defensive aggression comes from that feeling of “flight” or getting away.  Your dog is feeling afraid and often his inability to get away from the situation brings out aggression.   This, in my opinion, is the most dangerous form of aggression because it is hard to know where the dog’s confidence lies and where his breaking point lies.

#6 – Fear Aggression

Fear aggression is very difficult for dog owners.  Most want to deny it is happening at all, some want to make excuses (like he was abused), or you have the dog owners who ignorantly praise and making “comforting” noises at dogs who are exhibiting fear aggression.

This inadvertent praise raises the dog’s confidence with his fear and his aggression.

Instead of teaching true confidence or working on problems, the dog becomes complacent and contented by his own aggression and aggressive displays.

We often see this in veterinary medicine!  The dog is crawled up in the owner’s lap, trying to get away, growling and snarling, sometimes lunging then retreating; all while the owner pets the dog and tells him “It’s okay, it’s okay” and describing what a tough life he is lead.

And if a muzzle is recommended to keep everyone safe this dog owner is horrified.

Yes, aggression, especially fear aggression, can be rewarded by an ignorant or even calculated dog owner.

Some dog owners, intentionally reward defensive dog aggression whenever the dog hears a sound outside or someone comes to the door.  They want a “protective” dog, but don’t realize the dog is barking because he is fearful and unsure; and by rewarding that they are creating an unpredictable monster.

I would much rather deal with a forwardly aggressive dog because I can clearly read his terms.  Fearful or defensive dogs are almost impossible to accurately read because they are unpredictable, even to themselves.  I have seen fearful dogs bite people and then look amazed and horrified by their actions.

This kind of aggression needs to be recognized and dealt with as soon as possible so that owners can encourage confidence instead of fear.

#7 – Reactivity Aggression

Reactivity is a learned behavior that stems from fear and discomfort.

Often, ignorant dog owners teach their dogs these behaviors by both ignoring or trying to correct these fearful behaviors.

Let us first talk about ignoring the behavior.  When your dog sees another dog and becomes slightly aggressive or reactive and you do nothing, this defensive behavior grows as a form of displaced confidence.  The next time he sees a dog or a person and you do nothing this displaced confidence that came from a place of fear, well, it grows.

Eventually, it is out of hand and can no longer be controlled.

At the point that most dog owners seek help for dog aggressive behaviors their behavior have spiraled out of control and are just then being addressed by the dog owner who has allowed these behaviors to flourish.

On the other hand, some owners try to correct this behavior…   The dog sees another dog and doesn’t know what to do, so maybe he barks or growls.  The dog owner swiftly reels in the dog with a tight leash, possibly yells or physically disciplines the dog to stop the behavior.  What happens is the nervous dog, unsure of himself around this other dog, feels the physical and emotional pain of discipline.  He is confused.  He associates the correction with the other dog… and this further reinforces his fears and uncertainty about other dogs.

The next time the dog encounters another dog, he’s once again unsure of himself… the dog owner confirms these fears again with a physical correction… and the downhill spiral continues, with the dog owner unwittingly making the aggression worse.

So What’s A Concerned Dog Owner Supposed To Do?

Now let’s have an honest conversation …

… If your dog shows any degree of aggression, what can you do about it?

Even if you suspect that you’ve inadvertently made the problem WORSE?

The MOST IMPORTANT thing I can tell you is this:

Don’t make excuses.  Don’t ignore the problem.

Your dog doesn’t get a free pass to behave aggressively because he’s a rescue… he was abused… he had a bad experience…

Whatever happened, wherever he came from, there are to be no more excuses.

His present behavior, today, matters.  His future with you matters.

Live in the present, deal with the aggression issues he’s exhibiting TODAY.

STEP #1 – Be the person in your dog’s world who deals with all things scary.

Stop allowing him to feel in charge of everything in his environment.  Never make your dog feel like it’s his duty to defend or protect your family or property.  Let your dog see that he can rely on YOU to deal with everything scary.   People ask me: aren’t I afraid something may happen to me or someone may break into my house?  NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!  If something were to happen and I was scared, truly scared, I know that my dogs would step up and deal…. But those are the contingencies.

STEP #2 – Teach your dog CONFIDENCE!

Teach CONFIDENCE!!!!  We want confident and independent children, don’t we?  So why then are we fostering fear in our dogs?

Confident dogs are crucial.  If you see a fear don’t ignore it or keep him from it.  I can’t believe how many owners come to me saying their dog fears the clicker.  And, let me tell you, that was me in the beginning of my career.  I was training service dogs taken from shelters, I got a dog and she was terrified of the clicker…

I went to the “powers that be” of the organization and they basically told me “if she couldn’t get over the sound of the clicker, then she couldn’t be a service dog”  I was horrified at first!  How could they be so uncaring, then I realized they were right… imagine the sounds you hear in public… waaaaaay worse than a click.

So, I clicked until she could care less.  In the beginning, it sent her running…. But after I did it nearly constantly while I watched TV etc.  she got over it.  She learned to be successful and she was placed!  It taught me to reevaluate a dog’s fears.

STEP #3 – Make & Teach Eye Contact

Know what else gives dogs confidence?  EYE CONTACT!!!!   Eye contact and focus gives an under-confident dog a coping mechanism.

I currently own an under-confident dog, my Malinois.  He is also not necessarily friendly.  So  I have taught him to give me eye contact and focus when he is nervous.  If he does so, I will reward him heavily and valiantly for making a good choice.

He was honored a few years ago for being one of the fastest swimming dogs in North America.  If you look at him you can’t see his under confidence because he gets his confidence from me.  He gives me eye contact and his own focus in trials such as this, and it has become his coping mechanism.

I have told this story before, but I’m a runner … And while running with me, my dogs can’t pull but they don’t have to be in perfect heel position; it isn’t rational.

So we were running in the neighborhood when I saw a dad out walking with his double stroller.  I knew it was a guy with 2 kids… my dog didn’t.

Apparently, he was scared or at least feeling unsure, because he immediately put himself in the heel position and gave me eye contact and focus!

I instantly knew:  my dog didn’t know what the strange-looking contraption was.  But I had given him the confidence and coping mechanisms to deal with his insecurity in an appropriate way!  Teach your dog good coping mechanisms.

#4 – Be Willing To Admit You Need Help

Working with dogs exhibiting aggression isn’t something you should tackle alone.

If you don’t feel SAFE handling your dog… if you’re AFRAID of your dog… then get a professional involved:  a board-certified behavioral specialist.  Speak with your local vet, see who they recommend.  Ask around before investing any money in training to be certain you’re dealing with a professional who is prepared to help YOU train your dog safely, not a snake oil salesman who will use fear and punishment to dominate your dog FOR YOU — and ultimately make your dog’s fear and aggression issues worse.

If you’re still comfortable handling your dog, and you feel like you’re dealing with more minor aggression and fear issues, then consider checking out our 8-Week “Emotional Recalibration Training (ERT) Program, delivered 100% online, that teaches you to control your dog’s reactive and fear-driven behaviors… so he’s less likely to have an aggressive outburst.

And he’s finally predictably calm and trustworthy around other people and dogs.

Click here to learn more about ERT Training For Aggressive & Fearful Dogs

However, keep in mind this isn’t a quick fix either.  You need to be willing to watch the videos we’ll send you, and do the assigned training exercises with your dog.

It comes with a money-back guarantee, and you can try the first 4 weeks for free, but still — you need to do the work if you want to see the results.

But honestly… wouldn’t it be NICE to stop feeling afraid… that your dog is going to bite someone (a child?) or attack another dog?  And relax when you’re out in public with your dog?  Or having guests over to your house?

Aggressive dogs need to be handled like loaded guns.  With care, concern, and the right training and information.  The wrong move can have deadly consequences.

The post My Dog Would Never Bite… And Other Lies. appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3hyNEv8 via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

True Or False: Dogs Should Wear Sunscreen, Too

True or False… Dogs should wear sunscreen, too.

The ANSWER? It’s true!

Just like humans, dogs are at risk of sunburns.

Dogs are even at risk of getting skin cancer!

And sunburns can exacerbate pre-existing health conditions like autoimmune disorders and dermatitis, making them worse.

So when we head outdoors to enjoy the summer sunshine with our dogs, we need to be aware—they need sun protection, too!

How Do I Know If My Dog Needs Sunscreen?

Any dog with exposed skin would benefit from the protection of sunscreen.

Dogs who are most at risk are those with less hair, light skin, and/or white hair.  These include breeds like Chinese Crested and the American Hairless Terrier. As well as Collies, Australian Sheep Dogs, Whippets, Bull Terriers, Dalmatians, French Bulldogs, Boxers, and Greyhounds to name a few.

Again, though, any dog with exposed skin is at risk.

Sunscreen should be applied to the bridge of the nose, skin around the lips, tips of the ears, groin and inner thighs.

Again, these are areas with limited protection from hair that are more exposed to the sun.

How Do I Apply Sunscreen To My Dog?

Common sense goes a long way when applying sunscreen to your dog!

• Obviously apply the sunscreen to areas with exposed skin, and • Worry less about applying it to areas where your dog’s skin sees limited sun (like the pads of feet or areas where hair is very thick).

Follow the directions provided on the label.

Then, to start, apply a test patch to a small area of your dog’s body, to make sure your dog doesn’t have a reaction. Let the cream sit on the skin long enough to soak in, and watch your dog for any reaction (itching, burning, redness, etc.).

Rinse the sunscreen off immediately if there are issues.

After that, be sure to apply the sunscreen approximately 20 minutes before heading outdoors. And then be sure to reapply it regularly (every 4 hours) and/or after swimming.

How Do I Choose A Sunscreen For My Dog?

Sunscreen is vet recommended for dogs, however, it’s important you choose a brand that has been specially formulated for DOGS.

Your dog may be tempted to lick off the sunscreen…

… So you want to be certain you’re not exposing him to toxic ingredients!

Dog-friendly brands of sunscreen should be:

• FDA-compliant • Offer SPF protection • Hypo-allergenic • Non-toxic • Contain NO PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) • Contain NO zinc oxide • Unscented

Some popular brands you might consider include:

Epi-Pet Sun Protector Spray For Pets

Click Here To Get It Now

Emmy’s Best Dog Sun Skin Protector Spray

Click Here To Get It Now

Petkin Doggy Sunmist (SPF 15)

Click Here To Get It Now

Handy Hound SnoutScreen (SPF 30)

Click Here To Get It Now

Other Options For Sun Protection

Some dog owners choose to avoid sunscreen entirely, opting for other forms of sun protection like bodysuits, sun hats, and sun goggles.

PlayaPup Dog Sun Protective Shirts

(Comes in a variety of colours, patterns & styles!)

Click Here To Get One Now

QUMY Dog Goggles – Waterproof Pet Sunglasses

Click Here To Get A Pair Now

What If My Dog Accidentally Gets A Sunburn?

Remember that sunscreen isn’t guaranteed to protect your dog from sunburns.

Use common sense, take advantage of shade, and limit overall sun exposure on particularly hot days.

If your dog does get a minor sunburn, keep him out of the sun and apply cool compresses. Aloe vera gel can be applied to help soothe and heal your dog’s sunburn, too.

Check out Organic Aloe Vera Gel by Seven Minerals

(Best-seller on Amazon.com, from Fresh Cut Aloe Plant!)

Click Here To Get More Info Now.

If you suspect your dog may have a more severe sunburn, contact your vet right away. Severe burns may require cortisone treatments.

Again – keep your dog indoors or in the shade during the most intense hours of sun.

  The post True Or False: Dogs Should Wear Sunscreen, Too appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3jvaPIn via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

12 Summer Gear Essentials For Every Dog!

Worried about keeping your dog cool this summer?

In this article, we’ll look at 12 GEAR ESSENTIALS designed to help keep your dog comfortable and cool when temperatures begin to soar.

Heatstroke in dogs is no joke:

Once a dog’s core temperature rises beyond the normal 101.5 °F to over 105 °F, the risk of DEATH becomes very real.

And since our dogs will always try to please us and hide their discomfort, it’s our responsibility to make sure they’re protected from overheating.

Common sense tells us that we should keep our dogs in the shade, out of hot cars, off hot asphalt, and keep activity levels minimal when it’s hot, while offering plenty of water!

But what else can we do?

12 Gear Essentials For Beating The Summer Heat

  1) Dog Cooling Mat ($40-$60)

These dog cooling mats and pads give your dog a cool spot to lay down and relax – without any additional effort from you.

Filled with a patented gel, these pads work without any need for electricity or refrigeration.

They’re pressure-activated! And automatically recharge.

The Cool Pet Pad: Self-Cooling Gel Dog Mat

You’ll find many variations available for sale on Amazon.com, but here are a couple of the top-reviewed models. You’ll see thousands of four- and five-star reviews on these cooling mats; dog owners rave about them.

They need to be spot cleaned, so that’s a consideration… But they’re lightweight and portable so great for travel, around the house, and in dog crates.

Arf Pets Self-Cooling Mat For Kennels & Crates

2) Elevated Dog Bed ($45-$50)

With their lifted, off-the-ground design these elevated dog beds improve airflow on all sides of the bed, which helps keep your dog cool as he’s resting.

Plus—the suspended design is also excellent for elderly dogs who suffer with joint pain.

Easy to wipe clean and maintain, the lightweight yet sturdy design means they’re both durable and portable for both indoor and outdoor use.

Plus, it looks like the AmazonBasics version, featured first, can be purchased with replacement covers for roughly $10 (that would be important to me).

AmazonBasics Cooling Elevated Pet Bed

Or the elevated SHADE BED, which comes in a variety of sizes:

Elevated Sun Shade Dog Bed

3) The Evaporative Cooling Vest ($60)

Dogs don’t sweat like humans… They pant, and they sweat through their feet, but that’s it.

So these cooling vets are designed to keep your dog’s body temperature down with a three-layer cooling system: The inside layer keeps your dog dry, the middle layer absorbs and stores water, and the outer layer reflections heat and promotes evaporation.

Hundreds of four- and five-star reviews from dog owners confirm that these vests really do work to keep dogs cooler.

  Dog Cooling Vest With Harness

4) Foldable & Portable Dog Pool ($37-$79)

Have you ever noticed that standing in cool water regulates your overall body temperature through your feet? It works the same for dogs, too.

The only place dogs sweat is through their feet.

Dog pools are a portable, durable way to give your dog a place to cool off in your backyard.

Thick, slip-resistant PVC means it will stand up to regular use…

And it can even be a great place to BATH your dog during warmer summer days.

Pecute Foldable Dog Bath & Swimming Pool

5) Outdoor Patio Misting & Cooling System ($28-$56)

If even the shaded areas of your yard or patio become insufferably hot, an outdoor patio misting system may be the answer – for both you and your dog.

These misting systems are designed to bring down the temperature of your outdoor spaces by as much as 30 degrees F with cool misting technology.

Patio Misting & Cooling System

6) Dog Water Fountains ($16-$24)

Dog water fountains are made to slowly dispense filtered water from a reservoir into a drinking bowl using gravity … making sure your dog has the water he needs while you’re out.

(These fountains can be especially good for dogs who are inclined to FLIP their water bowls!  The extra weight helps prevent this.)

Plus—these systems typically come with antimicrobial protection that helps to prevent bacteria from growing in the base!

Petmate Gravity Water Fountain

Dog Gravity Fed Water Dispenser By AmazonBasics

7) Traveling water bottle for dogs ($16.99)

If you’ve ever tried to pour a bottle of water into your dog’s mouth, or let your dog slurp water from your hands on the side of a road, you’ll appreciate the clever design of these portable canine water bottle/bowl combinations.

Perfect for walks, car travel, and more…

It’s a water bottle & bowl in one:

Iesotc Dog Water Bottle For Travel (BPA Free

MalsiPree Dog Water Bottle For Hiking, Walks & Travel

8) Collapsible Water & Food Bowl

I love that these bowls are lightweight and foldable … making them easy to carry in packs and double for a food AND water dish when you need it.

Plus, they’re dishwasher safe. Also a win.

Guardians Collapsible Dog Water & Food Bowl For Travel

9) Dog Crate Fan ($23)

Somebody was thinking! This cleverly designed fan is perfect for keeping crated dogs cool on hot days, with up to 100 hours of run time and an ultra-quiet design.

Metro Dog Crate Fan

10) Canine Rectal Thermometer For Emergencies (MUST-HAVE!)

If you don’t already have a rectal thermometer for your dog, I highly recommend grabbing one.

It’s an essential piece of safety equipment that should travel with you during the summer.

It can be difficult to assess your dog’s body temperature just by looking at him. A temperature of 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit is considered normal for a dog. Anything over 103 degrees Fahrenheit is considered high and you should call your vet immediately. Anything over 105 is life-threatening.

(Remember that it’s important you don’t submerge an overheated dog in cold water or ice water, as this can cause blood vessels of the skin to constrict, which actually TRAPS the heat in your dog’s body instead of releasing it!)

A rectal thermometer empowers you to take an accurate reading of your dog’s temperature, on the spot.

There is a range of canine thermometers available, with prices from $7-$69, but here are a couple of affordable ones:

Veterinary Thermometer For Dogs (Rapid Response) 

SharpTemp Dog Thermometer, Stainless Steel

A Few Other Tips For Protecting Your Dog From The Sun

Dog sunscreen: Did you know that vets recommend dogs with exposed skin and/or white coats wear SUNSCREEN? Your dog’s nose is exposed skin and at risk of burning too.

One recommended canine-friendly sunscreen to check out includes:

SnoutScreen Sunscreen For Dogs

Dog sunglasses: If your dog is on the water with you a lot, or enjoys the wind in his face while you’re driving, these dog goggles might be a good choice for you:

Dog Sunglasses & Goggles For Sun, Wind & Water Protection

Finally, please remember that if you’re finding it HOT, your dog is, too…

Discourage active play during the heat of the day, and plan your walks during cool morning hours and in the later evening, before sunset.

Beware of hot pavement and asphalt… if it’s too hot for your bare feet, it’s too hot for your dog’s pads.

And must we say it? Never leave a dog in a car, even with the windows down.

Remember, the easiest way to accurately assess heat stroke is with a rectal thermometer.  Anything over 103 °F warrants a call to the vet.

Other signs that your dog is overheating include:

• Excessive panting • Hypersalivation (drooling) • Rapid heart rate • Dry nose • Quiet/weak • Confused • Vomiting/diarrhea • Pale gums/grey gums

If your dog is showing signs of overheating, move him to a cool, shaded area immediately, apply cool water to his body (without submerging him!), apply cool wet towels to his head and body, offer water to drink, and CALL YOUR VET!

The post 12 Summer Gear Essentials For Every Dog! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/2CEepPC via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

8 Ways To Protect Dogs Who Are Scared Of Fireworks

Many dogs are TERRIFIED of fireworks.  The unpredictable loud noises (cracks, snaps, and booms) combined with the flashes of light, smoke smells, and crowd excitement are all too much for them…

More dogs run away from home on July 4th than any other day of the year.  And it’s well known that July 5th is the busiest day of the year for animal shelters in the United States.

Plus, of course, a scared dog running loose on the streets at night is at risk of injury and even death.

So let’s talk about how you can prepare to keep YOUR DOG safe this coming July 4th.

STEP #1:  Make Sure Your Dog Is Wearing Identification

In addition to tattooing or microchipping your dog for identification purposes (something that should already be done, if not, speak with your vet)…

… I recommend taking the preventative step of ASSUMING the worst and preparing for it:

This is a good day/night to make sure your dog is wearing identification tags, just in case he escapes.

Dogs exhibiting extreme fear have been known to crash through screen doors and windows, push past guests entering in a surprise burst of speed, and more.  Don’t underestimate the resourcefulness of a fearful dog experiencing a rush of adrenaline.

STEP #2: Exercise Your Dog In Advance

A physically and mentally exhausted dog is a CALM DOG.  Make sure your dog is well exercised in advance of the fireworks, as this will ensure a positive, relaxed state of mind.  The release of happy “endorphins” your dog experiences during exercise will also work in his favor to help keep him calm during the fireworks.

STEP #3: Keep Your Dog At Home

Resist the urge to take your dog along with the family to view fireworks.  This can be a traumatizing experience for your dog that they’ll NEVER recover from.  They’re not a child “missing out.”  And since you can’t explain the fireworks to your dog or reason with them, you’re taking a BIG RISK exposing them to a fireworks event.

Just make sure, if your dog exhibits high levels of fear and anxiety over fireworks and thunder and other such loud noises, and you’re planning to go out to celebrate with family and friends, your dog is SAFELY locked up in a confined, indoor space he can’t escape!

(Follow the tips below to the letter!)

Some dogs simply shouldn’t be left alone in these situations, the risks of self-injury are too high if they become afraid, but you know your dog best.  So just make this decision carefully.

STEP #4: Lock Your Dog INDOORS

Be sure your dog is LOCKED INDOORS by the time evening falls, well in advance of the fireworks.  This is NOT the time to risk leaving your dog loose in your yard.  Even if you’d normally consider your yard “secure” you might be surprised to what lengths a scared dog will go to, to escape: scaling fences, smashing through gates, squeezing through extremely tight spaces.  Don’t risk your dog escaping.  And don’t risk hooligans seeing your dog in the yard, making your best friend vulnerable to “pranks” that could cause him serious injury or death.

STEP #5: Prepare A “Safe Space”

I would suggest that your dog should ALREADY have a safe space in your home, where he goes when he’s feeling tired or anxious.  But if you don’t–your goal should to be lock your dog away in a room he’s already comfortable in (not the basement, for example, if he never spends time there).

Ideally in a dog crate, especially if you’re planning to be out.

The room should be quiet, free of windows, and away from the firework noises.

Make sure, if there are windows, you close drapes and blinds to block out all flashing lights from the fireworks.

STEP #6:  Add Some White Noise Or Background Noise

Turn on the television or radio to add some background noise that your dog will find “normal.”  This will help mute the sounds of the fireworks in the distance.  Adding a fan in the background can help too.

If you can hear the fireworks, make sure YOU don’t react or jump when they go off.  Your dog will be taking his queues from you.

STEP #7:  Stay Calm

Again, your dog will take his queues from you.  So be sure to remain calm and don’t react to the fireworks.  Behave like it’s any other Saturday night at home with your dog.

If you’re relaxed, your dog should trust all is well, too.

STEP #8:  If All Else Fails, Consider Sedation

You know your dog better than anyone.  For some dogs, fireworks are “too much.”

If your dog’s anxiety and fear levels escalate well beyond normal, to the point you can see it’s causing him or her excessive distress, consider speaking with your local vet.

A gentle sedative for these rare occasions may be necessary.

We can’t explain fireworks to our dogs. All we can do is try to protect them from this strange, annual human need we have to blow up small sticks of dynamite in a national show of pyrotechnic patriotism.

If your dog can’t handle it… don’t blame yourself.

If you’ve tried everything else, a little sedation may be the answer.

Again, though, speak with your vet.

The post 8 Ways To Protect Dogs Who Are Scared Of Fireworks appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/2NFCgAu via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

How To Stop A Dog Thief

Globally, dog theft has been on the rise for the past few years.  So if you think your dog isn’t at risk… you may want to THINK AGAIN!

Dog theft is devastating to loving pet owners.  It can bring your life to a standstill and can cause devastating depression.

Let us face it, it is sad enough to lose a dog to old age and disease, sometimes via the difficult decision of euthanasia.  Losing your dog to a THIEF… not knowing where he is, if he’s safe, if he’s even still alive? It would be torture.

Unfortunately, real numbers and statistics of pet and dog theft are hard to find.  In most countries, the United States of America, the United Kingdom, and even Australia dogs are considered property.  Many times, the only viable statistics available come from those who report these thefts to their insurance companies.  Think of how many dog owners and pet owners don’t ever consider filing a claim and you will realize how little we truly know about dog theft around the world.

However, the little information that we do have shows us two very frightening facts.

#1.  Pet and dog theft is a gateway (or first sign) of animal cruelty and/or torture.

#2.  Certain dog breeds are more at risk to be stolen from their owners in certain places or areas of the world.   French Bulldogs, Pit Bulls, American Staffordshire Bull Terriers, Bull Terriers (think Spuds Mackenzie), Yorkshire Terriers, Siberian Huskies, Chihuahuas, and even Labradoodles, as well as purebred Retrievers, make the list.

Rarely is the sheriff’s office called, and even when the sheriff’s office or police department is contacted, the act can seldom be proven.  Thankfully with the invention of cheap and easy to use home video systems, these crimes are being caught on camera more often.

Different states have different laws but most dog theft or pet theft does not qualify as a felony or grand theft in the third degree.  If the value of the pet is over five hundred to over one thousand dollars in some states it may qualify as grand theft versus petty theft (which is often only a misdemeanor); making the penalties higher if the individual can be or is caught and the case can be proven.

Reasons Criminals Steal Dogs

Monetary Reasons

Yes, it is sad but it is true.  Many times, immoral people and drug addicts steal things that will help them to profit and or fuel their illegal habits.

How often have you seen “Lost” or “Missing” pet signs, around your neighborhood, that offer a large sum of cash as a reward?

Sadly, especially in affluent or wealthy neighborhoods dogs and other pets can become targets as a means to make quick money.

Purebred dogs often can be sold for thousands of dollars and distraught pet and dog owners will often pay more than what they are worth to get their beloved pet back.

Puppies are even more at risk, because they are easily “flipped” or resold for profit.

Stolen dogs can be big business.

Research Institutions

Wicked people looking for easy money often target pets left outside, go to animal shelters, animal auctions and take pets offered “free to a good home” and sell them to research institutions that offer money for animals that they can conduct research on with very little financial output.

Although research institutions try to avoid stolen dogs, especially on paper, many stolen dogs are taken to these places for profit.

Bait Dogs

Dogs are often stolen or adopted off Craigslist or from shelters to be sold as “bait dogs” for the illegal world of dogfighting.

Wretchedly, the world of dogfighting is very profitable and still exists all over the world.  Don’t believe me?  Volunteer at your local shelter and you will see the wounded and scarred Pit Bulls and other fighting breeds come in and be held until their court case works through the system.  Most often these dogs are euthanized before even given a chance to go up for adoption due to animal aggression issues (as you can well imagine).

In the beginning, in order to get these fighting breeds to adequately and vigorously fight one another to the death they introduce them to much weaker dogs that are easily killed; “bait dogs.”  This process builds their confidence and often makes them more willing to fight.

Bait dogs can be sold to people who profit from dog fights (yes, there is big money in this underground and illegal enterprise).  Remember the worldwide attention quarterback Michael Vick received when it was discovered (while investigating another crime) that his Pit Bull “breeding” kennel “Bad Newz Kennels” was involved in dogfighting and illegal gambling?  In 2006, just one year before charges were filed Michael Vick was the highest-paid NFL player.

Gambling purses alone went for upwards of $26,000, which is a lot of money.  According to witnesses Vick and his other cohorts were known to laugh when their trained fighting Pit Bulls killed pet dogs.

Regrettably, the world of dogfighting exists and is still big business and gambling in and around the world.

Insurance Fraud

Yes, this also exists although probably to a smaller extent.

When I was a young, young dog trainer, I knew a breeder of Cocker Spaniels.  They happened to have a very rare color within their breed.  Oddly they bragged about the color and how they had taken out pet insurance on the puppy.

Oddly enough, their puppy died suddenly and they used the insurance money to buy a $20,000 boat.

And, although this is rarely a reason for dog theft (unless a third party is paid), it is still something that sticks in my mind when it comes to pet insurance.

As far as I know, it was never proven as insurance fraud.  But, to this day I have my doubts that the death of the puppy was accidental.

Other Reasons, Beyond Financial Gain

Animal Torture and Abuse

As we are well aware due to many studies in modern psychology, animal torture, cruelty, and abuse is linked to antisocial behavior and severe and disturbing mental disorders.  Alarmingly, the act of animal torture and cruelty is known to psychologists as “Intentional Animal Torture and Cruelty” (IATC).  There are many types of Intentional Animal Torture and Cruelty including religious sacrifice, artistic sacrifice, psychopathic personality disorders (zoosadism), or sexual disorders.

In the 1970s when behavior profiling was in its infancy one of the most consistent findings of the Federal Bureau of Investigation was that Intentional Animal Torture and Cruelty was seen as a common behavior, in childhood, of early serial murderers and rapists.

I really hate to go into this more, as just doing the research for this article sickens me; but let me assure you that this kind of behavior still exists in the human or inhumane world of humans and neighborhood pets are often used as a likely source because they are easily available.

Stealing To Get The Dog You Can’t Buy (Or Afford)

Yes, it seems ridiculous; but some people steal pets or specifically purebred dogs because they cannot afford to buy the dog that they want.

You can search the Internet and find videos of often women sticking pure breed puppies in their purse or shirt and walking out of pet shops and pet stores.  These puppies are often upwards of $1,000.

Sometimes the thieves think that they are giving the stolen dog a better life.  And, honestly sometimes stolen dogs get just that.

I am embarrassed to admit that I have known people who have stolen dogs.  These dogs were often chained outside day in and day out; sometimes they were left with no shelter and no food or water.  I can think of one I used to drive by every day when I lived in GA.  I watched him grow from a puppy into an adult.  He had barely a shelter and animal control wouldn’t do anything about his conditions.  Never did he get to go inside; EVER.  Someone in the animal community took him to give him a new lease on life while he was still a year or so old.

I have often seen a Pit Bull that is my best friend’s neighbor’s dog.  He also is never invited inside and sits outside no matter how cold or rainy it is in our climate.  I wish I could steal him and give him a better life.  A life where he can actually have a “pack” and a loving human and the food and shelter and warm bed that he desires.

Pet theft and dog theft comes in many forms.

Although all are illegal.  You judge what falls in the parameters of morally acceptable and what is not.

At least dogs thieved to be personal pets are more likely to have a better chance at life than other dogs or companion animals that are stolen.

The truth is, good pet owners never want their dog to be on that list of stolen dogs that the police or insurance company has to investigate!

So let us talk about how to keep our dogs safe!

Protect Your Dog from Dog Theft

Secure Your Area

The first thing to keep in mind is to secure your area.  Make sure that you have locks to lock your fence.  Wooden fences provide more security and keep neighbors and passers-by from being able to see your dogs.

Wooden fences also keep dogs from being reactive and overexcited because they limit what they can visually see.

Keep An Eye on Him

Don’t put your dog outside for hours on end, even if he likes to go outside be sure that you keep an eye on him.

Every 20 minutes or so check on him and make sure that he is still in your yard and safely secured.

No Signs

Although many people believe that they should get signs that announce their dog’s presence in their home or in their yard; these signs may actually do more harm than good.

“Dog on Premises”  or “Warning Guard Dog” signs simply alert would-be thieves to the fact that you own a dog!

If you want to keep someone from breaking into your home, I suggest that you use a security system sign or an alert to video surveillance.

Don’t Leave Your Dog Outside While You Are Gone

Dogs left outside for hours at a time and especially dogs left outside while their owners are gone make perfect targets.

These are the dogs that often bark (which alerts the neighbors to them being alone and can also irritate neighbors).  Dogs left outside consistently make easy marks for would-be thieves who may be “casing” or watching for dogs that would be easy to steal.

Leave your dog secured inside while you are gone to keep him safe.

Tools If The Unthinkable Happens

Microchip

Microchips are easy and will keep shelters are research companies from accepting a stolen dog or cat.  Nowadays, microchip readers are also universal so that owners can be tracked down no matter what microchip company the pet owner chooses.

Your veterinary hospital will be happy to microchip your pet.

But, please, please, please register the microchip and keep it up to date when you move.  There are thousands of microchips that go unregistered and an unregistered microchip is as good as not having one at all!

Tattoo

There are some places that will also tattoo your pet.  Many show dogs are not only microchipped but additionally tattooed with their owner’s social security number so that the owner can easily be tracked down.

Tips for tattooing is NOT to tattoo the ear of the dog.  As sick as it sounds, ears can be cut off and dogs can still be turned in for money or financial gain.

Those who tattoo their dogs usually use their social security number and have the tattoo put on the thigh of the dog where it will be easily seen and identified on exam.

GPS Collar

GPS collars can also give you information if your pet goes missing.  You can track down the time the dog was taken and if the would-be thief is not astute he might not realize that the collar has a GPS locator.

Video Surveillance

Thanks to modern technology and the ability to mass-produce technology for the masses camera systems like the “Ring” are often now used both outside the home and inside the home to keep theft at bay.

As with any crime, make sure that your dog’s yard and his space is also under surveillance.

Criminals avoid video surveillance like the plague and sentencing and proof is much easier if you have the crime caught on film.

It is always best when your home and your equipment can help you avoid having crime or getting the police involved.

Neighborhood Watch

A neighborhood with a good and active neighborhood watch will keep many criminals at bay.

There are also lots of pets alliance groups that you can look into in your area.  These groups will help keep your beloved pets safe and in their home.

Help Change Laws

Many people are afraid of the government taking away their rights and becoming involved in our lives.  I for one, agree. However, I would like to see laws change, and thankfully they are slowly changing.  Pets and animals are slowly evolving from “property” into sentient animals.  A sentient animal is an animal that is capable of being that has interests and is aware of its environment.  It feels hunger, heat, cold, and has desires and wants.  It is an animal that is capable of feelings.  Pets are not inanimate objects or property.  Pets have feelings and shouldn’t be abused or tortured any more than humans should suffer the same fate.

Pets are not property, they are way more important than any motor vehicle that can easily be replaced.  Property can be disposed of and abused at will.  Police should be involved with animal cruelty and abuse because this is a predictive crime.

We need laws that keep our pets safe from abuse, if not just for the animal’s safety but also to identify human sociopaths and predators.

The law should swiftly deal with animal abuse and neglect with a stern hand.  Empathy and kindness should be our goal when dealing with sentient animals.  After all, they have feelings too.

Support legislation that gives our companion animals and other animals rights to be treated humanely.

Looking to get involved contact your local kennel club.  Kennel clubs often know about what is going on in their area and can put you in contact with great people.  Rescue groups can also be a wealth of information.

Be Careful What Non-profit You Support

Not all not for-profit or 501(c)(3) organizations are created equally.  Not all animal welfare organizations or even humane society groups do what they say.

Some of these animal nonprofits are more like cults.

I remember when I was 18 and one very well-known animal rights organization was strongly opposed to showing dogs in conformation.  At the time I was involved in the conformation world with my male Rottweiler.  My intent was never to breed him, but to show the world his beauty and perfect physical conformation.  This said animal rights group was going to prestigious conformation events and poisoning dogs… because they felt that the dogs lived abusive or sad lives.

I can say wholeheartedly, that some do.  Some of these dogs are not much more than livestock being paraded around to win trophies so that their owners can charge more money for puppies.  But, many of the dogs were like mine; well-loved family pets that wen home and lived happy and prosperous lives.  I for one have NEVER bred one of my dogs no matter what title they have won.  I enter into the dog show world only to compete alongside the best with my happy pets.

Do your research!  If you are going to support an animal rights organization financially or otherwise make sure that you know the ins and outs of their ethics.

I am not one for putting anyone on blast but PETA is known for their extremist views and the killing of animals.

The truth is that dog theft is a big problem throughout the world.  But there are simple steps that you can take to educate yourself about the act itself and why it is profitable and then ways that you can keep your dog from becoming a statistic!

The post How To Stop A Dog Thief appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/31plNsp via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

My #1 Fear For Dogs This Summer

Hot days kill dogs.

Most of us know enough not to leave our dogs in the car on a hot or sunny day, but did you know in some states it is illegal?  AZ, CA, IL, ME, MD, MN, NV, NH, NJ, NY, ND, SD, VT, and WV all have laws concerning leaving your animal unattended in your vehicle.   Although the penalty is usually not nearly enough in my opinion!

So we can admit we know not to leave our dogs in a hot car on a sunny day! Please?

But… did you ALSO know that just being left outside without shade (or sometimes even with shade) or exercise on a hot day can kill your dog?

My husband and I are avid hikers and geocachers.   When we have a day off we are often found hiking through the mountains with our K9 friends at our side.

But as the temperature climbs we are sometimes unknowingly putting our dogs at risk.

Dogs are AT RISK of heatstroke at much lower temperatures than you might suspect!

When I was a vet tech and worked with my friend (the vet at the local vet clinic) she used to tell all of her clients that anytime the weather is over 70 degrees, your dog is at risk for heatstroke.

Think about it:  70 degrees is not hot at all for us humans!

But your canine friend has fur and did you know he can’t sweat like us?  Dogs can only expel heat through their feet, and by panting.

If you exercise your dog above 70 degrees he should have constant access to water, not only that he can drink but also the kind he can submerge himself in to cool his body temperature.

As we were hiking the other day, the temperature climbed up over 80 and I watched as our dogs went from pond to pond to mud hole and then to the river to cool their temperature.

How Do You PROTECT Your Dog? 

Be knowledgeable about where you are taking your dog and make sure there is shade and water is available.

If you haven’t hiked there before, go without your dog if it is hot.  Even hiking trails that are near water may not be very shady for hundreds of feet or even a mile or more.  Your dog can overheat during this time!

Bring cool water.  Either carry your dog’s water for him or let him carry his own chilled water.   There are backpacks that distribute the frozen or chilled water over your dog’s body to help him stay cooler and an added benefit is that he can also drink some of the water when you stop.

Monitor your dog closely.  Heatstroke begins with heavy panting and difficulty breathing.  The tongue and mucus membranes appear bright red.  Saliva becomes thick and dogs can have bloody diarrhea.  The temperature can climb to 104 degrees very quickly and will become life-threatening.

Carry a rectal thermometer.  I am sure some people think it is gross or would never want to take their dog’s temperature but having one with you and being familiar with how to use it can save your dog’s life!

Recognize long, fat tongues, and other signs of heatstroke!

What Can You Do If You Suspect Heatstroke?

Get your dog out of direct sunlight and heat.

Take your dog’s temperature with a rectal thermometer every 10 minutes until it is normal.   Normal body temperature for your dog is between 101 and 102.5 degrees.  Anything over 103 is abnormal and needs to be cooled.

If your dog’s temperature is over 104 you will need to help cool him by using cool water, the hose, a pond or body of cool water but not ice water!  Even a muddle of mud or muddy water may be cool, you can worry about bathing him later.

Once his temperature is under 103 stop your cooling efforts or he may go into shock and hypothermia.

Following an episode of heatstroke make sure to take your dog to the vet for a health check, even if you have gotten his temperature under control.  Heatstroke can cause spontaneous bleeding, irregular heartbeat, kidney failure and seizures.

My Rules For Protecting Dogs From Heatstroke:

Go early in the morning or late evening if you take your dog so it will be cooler and there will be less direct sunlight.

Always take drinking water to avoid overheating and dehydration.

Make sure a body of cool water is available.

If it is over 80 to 85 degrees depending on your dog, leave your furry best friend home it is way too hot for him to be comfortable even in cool water!

This previously published post was UPDATED June 26, 2020

Save

Save

The post My #1 Fear For Dogs This Summer appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/2Zd6ujF via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Dog Social Distancing and Utilizing a Crate to Help with Separation Anxiety

As I sit here and ponder where I am going to go with this article, my mind wanders. I’ve already sat down a couple of times to write it.

I’d literally just sat down on Monday, computer open, and then the governor of Maryland called a press conference and essentially announced more lock down. So, you’ll understand why I flew out of the house to get more food and supplies.

It is now a law in our state, punishable by up to a year in jail and/or up to a five thousand dollar fine, to go out for any non-essential reason (other than medical, getting food, or emergencies).

I don’t even know how to conceive of, or talk about, all that is going on in the world, but I find it is affecting everything, even our relationships with our canine companions.

Interestingly, I have always seen myself as well spoken and have always had the ability to describe, through the written word, how to understand certain concepts, especially when it comes to dog training.

But I have, admittedly, been a little overwhelmed this week, and have struggled with all the ways to make this modern day article more pertinent to you as you sit at home looking for information to help get through this crisis.

Gratitude…

  First off, to those I know, who know me, and those who have been following Chet and I for the past 10 years, THANK YOU!

We take your loyalty very seriously and it is important to us to provide you with accurate and relevant information.

With things being the way they are in the world, I want to make sure that you and your pets are safe. Safety is far and above the most important thing we have to deal with each day.

To those of you on the front lines, driving trucks, growing food, working in warehouses and to those in both human and veterinary medicine; THANK YOU!

Having a pandemic afoot and being socially locked down has certainly never been seen by the world on this scale. We are still waiting on more affirmative information as I sit here.

My immune system has never been the strongest, and I worry about the implications this holds for me, my friends, and, of course, my pets.

So, since I have your attention for at least a short time, let’s talk about how all of this is going to affect those of us on lock down.

I am worried about some pets dogs especially, concerned that we are creating separation anxiety for them to struggle with when life goes back to ‘semi normal’.

Having been in the dog training industry for the past twenty five years, I will admit that true and severe separation anxiety in dogs is not nearly as rampant as many people think.

Severe separation anxiety is marked by a dog that:

**  often urinates and defecates

  **  howls or barks almost constantly

**  will literally become self-injurious while attempting to break out of a weak crate, or even break through windows

In my career alone, I have had 2 dogs that have jumped out or through windows. Thankfully they did not die or eviscerate themselves.

My first experience was when I was just 18 with the first dog (a Rottweiler) I had ever owned. He jumped out of the front window, fell probably 20 feet down and was loose for an hour or two until we returned.

Twenty five years ago in Wyoming it was impossible to find a dog crate. We purchased dog food from feed stores! I ordered my very first dog crate from a JCPenney catalog. I couldn’t afford new windows every time we left the house and I certainly didn’t want my dog to hurt himself.

Shoving a 100 pound, anxious, Rottweiler into a giant metal dog crate was my first foray into crate training. I honestly think it saved his life. And, although he struggled to get out in the beginning, the crate was strong enough that he wasn’t able to hurt himself.

That is really an important key to this article.

Don’t Panic

  I recently got back from a trip to visit clients who swore that their dog was having severe separation anxiety. He’s young, and he is not really getting enough exercise, and they monitor video of the dogs constantly.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that in no way was it severe! He sings a little bit when he is crated, and he lightly puts his mouth on the crate, but by no means was he in danger of hurting himself.

  He would bark but he was also laying down in his crate. That may be slight anxiety but really is no need for concern.

In the beginning, I suppose most dogs are not huge fans of the crate, but don’t panic if he is barking a bit or trying to assess if he can make an old school break out.

If you panic every time you leave him, he is going to panic (remember how intuitive dogs are; they pick up on our anxieties!) This dog is quite literally never left alone. Either the husband or wife has been home with him for a year.

Not only is this creating his problem, their shear terror and overreacting has made the dog worse.

I remember being scared to sleep in my “big girl bed” and room when I was a kid.

But in order for me to be a functional adult, I had to do some things I didn’t want to do, and I had to learn to be confident and independent as I aged.

Just as we can’t coddle our children forever, we can’t coddle our dogs; it is not healthy.

If you are truly, truly worried that your dog has severe separation anxiety, talk to your veterinarian or find a boarded veterinary behaviorist in your area.

I kind of hate to admit this, outwardly anyway, but we are talking about some personal subjects here.

In the last year, I have suffered from some anxiety. Ironically, when I am awake I am a fairly rational person and I pride myself on that.

But I was waking up in the middle of the night with a heart rate over 200, covered in sweat, and feeling like I was going to die.

If you’ve ever had the displeasure of feeling like that (and I hope you don’t) you will realize that drug therapy, along with behavior modification, is essential.

I made some changes in my life and hadn’t really had that problem until, ironically, last night.

But, with times the way they are right now, I feel that it was acceptable to spill over a little from the unknown.

If your dog would do better on some meds while you work on crate training, do him the service of getting him some.

Trust me, you would want the help, he will thank you, and your training will be more successful.

Needing something that helps balance serotonin, or other necessary chemicals, is nothing to be ashamed of!

  Just don’t cover a problem with drugs and expect them to do wonders without behavior modification.

Some drooling, panting, shaking, barking or whining can be fairly normal for this process.

Avoid Weak & Dangerous Crates

  The flimsy metal crates with plastic bottoms that look cozy to most people are the WORST. The metal is easily bent and the plastic bottom can be shredded with little effort. Many dogs have broken teeth and gotten stuck in the bent sharp metal doors and sides as they are trying to escape, which can cause deep lacerations. Some of the videos you find online of dogs escaping these kinds of crates are funny, but the implications of injury are not worth it.

The other problem, that as humans we don’t really understand… is that dogs are den animals. They like closed, dark places, not a big open cage where they can still see everything going on in the environment. This stimulation often makes them even more reactive. Most dog owners park those big crates next to a large window and the dog can’t escape if he is having anxiety with his crate training.

Plastic crates are usually chewed less and more escape-proof. There are also less sharp edges with dark plastic crates. Yes, I have seen dogs pop the front doors, but all-in-all they are safer. I even have a picture of my very own dog (Belgian Malinois) who chewed straight through a crate when he was just a puppy and heard me training his sister.

So being the dog owner that I am, I stuffed him in the crate to snap a picture and then I immediately purchased another crate that I had to have shipped (apparently I have had some naughty dogs in my career). There are heavy duty, thick metal crates that are used in the world of police dog training that are self locking and very nearly impossible to chew through. Also, their edges are not sharp (like the metal crates in the first example), and most have doors and openings that keep things dark but are also less likely to be chewed or have a tooth broken.

They can be pricey, but one or two crates that are impossible to ruin or escape from is cheaper in the long run and safer for your dog. I use and recommend Impact Dog Crates.

And remember: a broken window or a loose, anxious dog is not nearly as safe as an anxious dog in a heavy duty crate.

  Why is Crate Training Better and Why Will it Help Your Dog Feel Better?

  I understand that I am conversing with humans and it is hard to convince people that crate training actually helps with separation anxiety.

As a human you aren’t likely to hurl yourself through a window. You aren’t likely to chew electrical cords, the carpet, or chew through a door when you have anxiety. You have different coping mechanisms.

And, truthfully if you have anxiety to that degree; you are likely to look into some drug therapy.

Your dog doesn’t have those options.

So, by leaving him out loose in the home, it often causes more anxiety and reactivity as he runs from window to window, or door to door, in a panic.

I was trying to explain this to a client at the beginning of the month. Both their dogs were chasing around the house (you could watch with their in-home camera) and acting panicked. Putting them in a smaller and darker place where they couldn’t see every action in the neighborhood was actually better for their mental health. It helped them to relax and not worry about every sight and sound (feeding the anxiety).

I used to have billionaire clients in Colorado. They had a Golden Retriever and a Labrador Retriever and I used to pet sit for them. It was an amazing experience, but living in a huge house like that 20 years ago was kind of intimidating for me. I remember bringing a knife to bed with me in the early days! Every noise had me paranoid. There were too many doors and windows and levels. If someone broke in would I even hear it?

Currently I live in a small house (less than 1,000 square feet) and I have never really been afraid here. I basically have one door and a couple windows. If someone comes into my house, I am going to hear it. My dogs are going to hear it. A smaller space is easier to contain.

If I had 3 million dollars cash in a mansion and I knew someone was coming to take it; it would be much more intimidating. It would be a lot safer to keep here in a small space.

Smaller spaces often are less intimidating and more easily defended.

Not all dogs are guard dogs. Some dogs have general anxiety, but being in a large space isn’t always better. Dogs with anxiety (not even severe separation anxiety) feel better in a small dark place, with familiar sounds like the radio or television left on so that they don’t hear all the goings on. You are taking options and worry away from them.

Even the dogs that I have successfully treated with thunderstorm or other phobias have often been treated more successfully by utilizing a crate or a safe spot. My current Malinois is not a fan of thunderstorms but by giving him his own safe place, he is able to deal with his anxiety.

Create Your Dog’s Safe Haven

  First off, it is critical to know your dog, and what is and what is not safe.

Some dogs will eat dog beds and blankets.

A former puppy client of mine underwent surgery last week to have parts of a blanket removed from his intestines.

If in doubt, your dog doesn’t need a bed or blanket. Chances are he likes laying on the cold floor anyway.

The bane of my existence, my current Malinois, will never be able to be unattended with a bed or a blanket. I have ordered ballistic style dog beds that were guaranteed chew proof that he can still shred. Thankfully he has never swallowed anything, but he has killed quite a few of my friends’ sweatshirts at dock diving events! I know this about him, and I keep those items away from his crate.

But that doesn’t mean he can’t have some other things.

Play crate games with your dog or your puppy! Puppies, especially, need crate games to understand that the crate is a safe place where happy things occur.

If you only stuff him inside when you leave, he will learn to hate the crate because it equals your leaving.

If my dogs willingly go into their crates, they get a treat or a reward.

Feed your dog in his crate so that he learns it is not always a space where he will be closed in for long periods of time. Be sure and close the door occasionally, but not all of the time. It can and should be his choice to go inside during the day when you are with him.

A dog crate doesn’t have to be sterile or not fun – quite the opposite! Zippy’s crate has elk antlers and other indestructible types of chews for him to enjoy.

Occasionally, I will slather a bone, a Kong toy, or an antler with peanut butter or Kong paste when he goes in his crate. But he only gets that special item when he is inside with the door closed behind him. Think of it as a break, with a great treat that he only gets when he is inside.

I may only leave him in there for 5 or 10 minutes, but the reward for going in is high enough for him to just enjoy the act of going in his crate.

After I let my dogs outside, I always bring them in and have them go into their crates for an early morning treat. I do the same at night.

Have you ever heard of the dog that the owners can’t catch in the morning to put in the crate because the dog recognizes his owner is going to work?

If your dog is used to going in the crate every morning and every evening no matter what, this alleviates this problem.

The other important piece to remember is to continue to crate your dog throughout his life, not just when he is a puppy.

As humans we get lazy. We crate our puppies so they won’t eat our stuff, or so that early in the relationship we can take a shower or make food while the pup is learning to show better behavior, and have less destructive behavior more of the time.

As his behavior gets better, we stop putting him in his crate. OR, we only crate him for long periods, like going to work or overnight.

This teaches the puppy or the older dog that time in his crate is going to be extended. We need to remind them that crate time can be long or short, but can also be fun.

If he gets a treat and some peanut butter he is much less likely to become an anxious dog during the time he is left in his crate. It just becomes another place where he can go to relax.

I always laugh because my Fury (my Dutch Shepherd) crate trained very easily and was given access to the house early on in her life. And, when I moved into a smaller house I figured I wouldn’t have to bring her crate inside. WRONG! She was horrified. She would dramatically throw herself into my Belgian Malinois’ crate when he wasn’t in there. Having her crate is essentially having her bed in the house.

Exercise and Mental Stimulation

Exercise and mental stimulation are crucial to help a dog with even mild separation anxiety.

Most dogs don’t want to be crated overnight for sleeping, just to be let out and then immediately crated while their owners attend to work and business.

I know that we live in busy times, but waking up an hour earlier or staying up an hour later so that you can tend to your dog’s exercise and mental stimulation needs can be critical in helping him to adjust.

Think about it. If you slept all night you wouldn’t want to be crated again first thing in the morning.

But if you had a healthy run of 5 miles, you might not mind taking a nap.

Our bodies need physical exercise and there are all kinds of ways you can provide that for your dog.

You can walk him, you can run him next to a bicycle, or you can get him to pull weights. Even small dogs like Jack Russell terriers and the like can benefit from pulling weights!

He also needs mental stimulation.

Teach your dog a new trick in the morning or work on his obedience before you leave.

You can also get treat-stuffed and interactive toys for when you are gone. Again, be sure they are safe for your dog or puppy before leaving them. But interactive toys can be a great way to burn a little energy.

Consider getting a dog walker that takes your dog for a walk, or take him to training, or doggy day care a couple of times a week. He gets to play and make friends, and you get to bring a tired dog home after a long day.

Remember he has needs! I was talking to an owner earlier today who was furious because her 7 month old puppy’s behavior is seeming to get worse. I always want to ask (and sometimes I do ask) if these people are parents to human children.

We expect that our toddlers need to go to the park. We know that they need to go to school, or have learning opportunities in the house. We better understand their physical, mental and emotional needs. But young puppies need all of these things too and if we are not providing them….. puppies often provide their own stimulation.

Puppies and young dogs also go through learning phases and stubborn phases just like you and your children did when you were young and exploring the world. Heck, I still sometimes have these stages in my “old age”!

If he is driving you crazy or if he is showing anxiety, chances are you are not giving him what he needs and you must reassess your training and exercise plans.

My very first Belgian Malinois I got when I was in my early 20’s. He was probably one of the most brilliant dogs I had then or have since ever trained.

I vowed to him that when I wanted to throttle him, or when he was being naughty I would assess if I had provided him with the kind of physical exercise and mental stimulation he needed.

Most of the time the honest answer was no, I had not.

So eventually, he learned about all of the 101 dog tricks in the book and could perform a gamut of service dog skills.

His mind and his body needed that kind of interaction.

He was also one of the few dogs I could trust at a dog park, or to play politely with other dogs.

So I would use that option if time was limited or I’d had a bad day

Prevention of Separation Anxiety

  I started this article talking about what’s been going on in the world today. At the time of this writing, I have been locked down for a little over a week.

My pets are likely getting tired of me shuffling the house and watching TV at 1 am. I am tired of it. I am excited for life to get back to some normalcy, whatever that looks like.

But the last thing I want is to create dependency while I am at home.

As I am typing I hear my Dutch Shepherd snoring on my bed in the other room. My Malinois is asleep by the front door.

In times of anxiety for me (like not knowing about my ability to pay my bills), I don’t want to create a NEED for my company with my dogs. Would I love Fury to be asleep in my lap right now? YES, but it isn’t going to be healthy for them when I go back to full time work. That doesn’t mean they don’t all get lap time, I am just trying to avoid creating over-bonding.

I still occasionally crate my dogs and go outside alone so they continue to be used to the crate. I still crate them at night. Sometimes it is for short periods of time and sometimes it is for longer periods of time.

I put them outside for 30 minutes or more so that they can lay in the sun.

I let one dog out and keep one inside. I even walk them separately and train them separately occasionally.

I can imagine with significant others spending too much time together, and mothers and fathers needing breaks during this time, that my dogs need a break from each other too.

Relying on each other constantly isn’t good for their mental or emotional growth either.

I feel sorry for any pet that is overly bonded to another pet or to their human. I want a confident and independent pet.

And, I try and walk them and play with them safely each day.

  Foster Independence

  I giggle a little bit seeing the memes on Facebook with the dog hiding on top of the counter because his owner has walked him over 20 times that day.

And, whereas I want you all to get your physical and mental exercise, it is crucial that you still foster some independence with your dogs.

The worst cases of true and severe separation anxiety I have seen were in working dogs and the working dog world.

Police dogs, guide dogs, or service dogs that develop a sense of never having their own space or being left alone are sometimes incapable of doing it in later years. This is why I think retirement can be so difficult for these working dogs. Thankfully, at least most police officers leave their dogs occasionally.

But one of the saddest cases of over bonding and severe separation anxiety I have ever seen came early in my career. It breaks my heart to say it was a dog I helped to train and place as a service dog. His owner never left home without him. They had an amazing bond and friendship; but then his elderly owner needed a surgery. Not knowing what to do and not being able to really leave him in the house because he would be destructive, they left him outside. He strangled himself trying to figure out how to find his owner.

Separation, even for working dogs, is critical to good mental health. I do feel sorry for those who literally are having a hard time finding any alone time right now (I also worry about those of us who are alone and secluded for days on end).  Neither is really mentally healthy.

So, I will say it: make some time for a little social distancing for your dogs and pets too, so you are not creating unhealthy habits that will make him suffer when his life changes again in a few weeks.

It’s not a bad thing, it is a healthy and important thing!

Be safe mentally, emotionally and physically during these times because we all need it.

Sending my love to all of my readers!

Sincerely,

Minette

The post Dog Social Distancing and Utilizing a Crate to Help with Separation Anxiety appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/3caDBKj via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Signs of Worms in Dogs… And How To PREVENT Your Dog From Getting Worms In The First Place!

Signs of worms in dogs are not necessarily easy to see to the untrained eye.  As humans and living in most first world countries, we simply do not have to deal with most parasites and worms nor the treatment that goes with living with these types of worms and their symptoms.

But most people do not recognize the signs of worms in dogs; and did you know that if your dog has worms that this can actually lead to these parasites infecting you and your family? The truth is that children and geriatric people; those with weakened immune systems are at highest risk for infestation, infection and the symptoms of worms.

A large majority of puppies and kittens are born with worms.  This is why veterinarians treat these parasites before any symptoms of worms or infections are likely to be seen.  It is better preventative medicine to deworm puppies and keep adult dogs on a monthly dewormer, than to wait for symptoms of worms to present and cause infection and intestinal distress.

Signs of Worms

The signs of worms can be different depending on what type of worm the dog may have and the type of infection, intestinal distress and symptoms he is showing.  We will discuss these parasites at length further in the article.

However there are some general symptoms that automatically denote a sign of worms or intestinal parasites that often live in the intestinal tract and present in your dog’s feces.  These signs are as follows:

Bloated Belly (dogs might look overweight)

Loss of Apetite

Weigh Loss (your dog might suddenly lose weight and look skinny)

Lethargy

Dingy Fur

Vomiting

Diarrhea

Bloody or Mucus(y) Diarrhea

Failure to Thrive

Actually Seeing Worms on the Anus or in the Feces

  Types of worms vary greatly from intestinal worms to heartworms and heartworm disease.

Most of these worms can be diagnosed and treated by your veterinarian.  Your veterinarian and his or her skilled staff or the laboratory that they use are all well skilled in identifying types of worms.

20 years ago, as a veterinary technician I used to look at a lot of fecal samples that were brought in by owners to try and diagnose types of worms or worm infestation.  In veterinary medicine today (at least at most of the practices that I have worked in, in the past 10 years), most veterinarians prefer to send fecal samples out to see if the dog has worms.  The laboratory employs employee’s whose only job is to look for larvae or the eggs that are seen in fecal samples.  Instead of entrusting a new veterinary technician to evaluate your dog’s fecal sample for worms or worm eggs, when veterinary technicians are also busy tending to surgery and animals, and vaccinations; it is more probable that the laboratory that your veterinarian uses (Antech or Idexx diagnostics) is more skilled to ascertain if your dog has worms.

Once the worm or worms, parasites or infection has been identified the appropriate treatment and drugs will be recommended by your veterinarian.   These treatments and or drugs should kill the worms, but regular prevention must be taken to prevent new worm infestations and symptoms of worms in your dogs and cats!

First Let Us Talk About Intestinal Worms

The most common type of worms in dogs is a variety of kinds and types of intestinal worms found in your dog’s feces.

Although some dogs will excrete a live worm, most worms (as mentioned above) are diagnosed by evaluating your dog’s feces and looking for worm eggs.  Eggs are seen and evaluated by your veterinarian or his lab using a high powered microscope and other tools.

And, remember!  Some of these worms can be transmitted to you and your children!  So it is crucial to have your dog’s feces evaluated and checked each year and to provide preventative medicine and medication to prevent transmission of worms and disease.

Type of worm is important, so let us start there!

Hookworms

Let us start with hookworms, because I think that hookworms can be the most terrifying of the types of intestinal worm infection that a dog can have because this one is very transmittable to humans.

Hookworms as the name implies hook into your dog’s intestinal tract and filters the blood out of your dog to survive.  They are even referred to as an extremely dangerous parasite.

If left untreated these worms can often kill puppies and kittens and dogs with weakened immune systems.

  Symptoms of Hookworms

Blood in feces

Diarrhea

Anemia

Coughing (severe hookworm infestation means that the hookworm can make their way to the lungs)

Pale lips, nose and ears

  Because these worms are leaching blood they can cause serious and dangerous infection.  These worms can also move through the body if left untreated and travel to the lungs.  Severe infections will cause anemia and paleness because the dog is losing blood faster than they can make more.

In humans, hookworm larvae or immature worms can be transmitted through contaminated soil or can even be transmitted if your dog licks his anus and then licks you or your child in the mouth.  It is this fact that keeps me from allowing dogs to lick me in the face and mouth and something that also makes this worm more dangerous for children (who are more likely to accept face and mouth kisses).

The hookworm larvae can also travel through damaged internal organs and even the eye, which can cause blindness and severe complications.

Prevention is the most important aspect of avoiding these worms for you and your dog!

Whipworms

Whipworms can also live in your dog’s intestinal tract and be more dangerous than some of the other intestinal worms because if treatment is not completed these worms can form an immunity or resilience to some of the drugs used to kill them.

Symptoms of whipworms:

Watery diarrhea

Bloody diarrhea

Fatigue

Weight loss

  Roundworms

Roundworms can also be found in your dog’s intestines and intestinal tract.

Roundworms come in two forms, one is more dangerous because it can be transmitted to you and your children.

The eggs of the roundworms which can be found in the soil or transmitted fecal to oral (just another reason not to let a dog or puppy lick you on the face or mouth).  I think people think that fecal to oral will never happen to them… however many, many people allow their dogs to lick them and of course dogs often lick their anus; hence fecal to oral dog transmittance to humans.

Symptoms of roundworms:

In humans severe vomiting and pain in the abdomen or intestines

In dogs

Distended or swelled belly (often seen in puppies and kittens)

Weight loss

Diarrhea

Lethargy

Coughing

In severe cases, the distended belly can rupture.

  Sometimes these worms can even be identified in the stool of the dog.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms can be tricky little devils!

Tapeworms can also be transmitted to humans and they are also one of the only types of worms that are difficult if not impossible to identify through fecal samples and evaluations. They’re common because tapeworms are usually transmitted when a dog digests a flea.  So dogs that have fleas, or dogs that kill wild animals like rabbits (etc) can be easily infected by tapeworms.

The tapeworm’s body is made up of tiny segments.  Each segment of these tapeworms has it’s own digestive and reproductive system.  These worms are typically identified as white pieces of worm in feces or what looks like rice around the anus of your dog, or even in severe cases what looks like rice where the dog sleeps.

Tapeworm infections can be fatal.

Symptoms of tapeworms:

Biting at anus

Scooting or dragging his rear end

  Avoid tapeworm infections by keeping your dog on flea and tick medication year round.  Also spray your yard for fleas.  Make sure that fleas are not a part of your dog’s life!

Giardia

Giardia  is actually not a worm, but a parasite and protozoan that can also give your dog projectile diarrhea and weight loss.

This protozoan is easily passed to humans as well as several other animals.

We used to see a lot of this kind of infection in Colorado when I worked there as a veterinary technician.  The parasite and protozoan giardia is often carried by birds.  We used to explain to our clients that this is why people don’t drink from streams and other standing water.  However, many of the dogs did, and most had ingested the protozoan even if it was not in the cyst shedding cycle.

When giardia (almost impossible to completely get rid of) infects the host and is it’s infectious stage cysts are shed.  When feces are evaluated by your veterinarian or the laboratory the evaluation is looking for these cysts.

I saw a lot of giardia in Colorado when I lived and worked there and evaluated feces samples.  Giardia, interestingly enough is a tear drop shaped protozoan that kind of appears to have a smiley face when evaluated under and with the help of a high powered microscope.  They are also kind of translucent. Typically ,these protozoans are much smaller than the eggs we see when we are looking for worms in dogs.

Treatment of the giardia cyst is usually very effective.  But killing the protozoan entirely is, again, nearly impossible.  So the protozoan usually lies dormant in the intestinal tract of all those that are effected and infected.

Coccidiosis

Another type of intestinal parasite is called coccidiosis, it causes watery and mucous based diarrhea in dogs and can cause damage to the intestinal tract if not treated.

Causes can be as simple as stress from boarding or moving or really anything that your dog finds stressful once the parasite is obtained.   The parasite is spread by the fecal matter of other infected animals and again is fecal to oral transmission.

Coccidiosis is most frequently found in puppies who have developed the infection by being exposed to the feces of infected adult dogs.  Remember puppies put their mouths on EVERYTHING.  Unfortunately, it is also particularly dangerous to puppies and dogs with weakened immune systems.

However, it is easily diagnosed through the examination of a fecal by either your veterinarian or the laboratory in which he uses.  And, thankfully it is easily treated once effectively diagnosed.

Again, as with giardia, eradication is nearly impossible with this parasite.  This is why stress later in life can cause a flare up.  But treatment of the symptoms can be very effective.  Once your veterinarian has diagnosed your dog or puppy with coccidia often seeking treatment will be easy.  Although just remember that there are so many reasons that your dog might have diarrhea, with the worms etcetera as mentioned above, that he might want to evaluate a sample again anyway.

Treatment of Worms and Parasites

The treatment of severe infections of each type of worm and several other types of parasites will be different depending on the worm or parasite.

Thankfully there are a number of prescription drugs available to your veterinarian that will treat them and some that will totally get rid of them.

It is a good idea to get a fecal sample any time that your dog has diarrhea or is having other aforementioned issues so that a test can be run.  The good news?  It only takes a 1 gram size of sample for your vet to run an effective test.  You don’t have to pick up the whole pile or even much of it to have a fecal sample run!  Your vet can even give you an easy to use tube to touch it hands free.

This pretty much concludes the most common intestinal worms and signs of worms in dogs.  Most of the most common heartworm monthly (or otherwise) medications also treat your dog monthly for worms.  Heartworm medications like Heartguard and other such types of heartworm medications also deworm your dog each month or treatment.   These medications kill all or most on the list except for tapeworms.  Tapeworms require a special type of medication that isn’t as readily available.  You can always look into alternative therapies but we don’t recommend it.

And, all of these reason and symptoms and dangers are why your veterinarian deworms puppies and kittens regularly!  Worms are dangerous and can be transmitted by the mother of the puppies and kittens.

I have saved one of THE MOST DANGEROUS worms for last.

Heartworms

Heartworms are dangerous and deadly!

Heartworms are also COMPLETELY PREVENTABLE!  Unlike being born with intestinal worms or getting them from mom’s milk; heartworms are not transmittable at birth or by the mother.

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitos.

A mosquito bites a dog, fox, coyote, or wolf with heartworm disease and the baby heartworm called microfilaria are ingested by the mosquito.  These baby worms or larvae then develop inside the mosquito into the “infective stage” of the worm (a period of 10 to 14 days).  Then, when the mosquito bites a dog or another susceptible wild animal the infectious larvae are transmitted to the new host via blood and the bite.

Once inside the new host it takes about 6 months to develop and sexually mature (this is why we test dogs over 6 months and recommend prevention starting when dogs are puppies).  Once mature these worms can live in the animals heart 5 to 7 years and create great complications and death.  Each mosquito season can provide more opportunity for infection and damage to a pet that already has heartworm disease!

Symptoms of heartworm disease

Most symptoms are not shown until the disease has developed to a heavily infected state.

Persistent cough

Fatigue

Loss of appetite

Weight loss

  It can also progress to heart failure, and a sudden death of the worms can cause blockage of the heart and cardiac collapse which typically results in death.

And, let’s face it mosquitoes are everywhere!!  I have heard clients say “my dog doesn’t need heartworm prevention because he never goes outside”  and our answer is that it is simply impossible to keep all mosquitos from entering your home.  Dogs in all states are at risk and some higher than others.

Heartworm disease is easily diagnosed through a blood test run by your veterinarian.  And prevention comes in many forms these days from monthly pills to products that last several months (but may be more dangerous).  And prevention is generally cheaper and safer than heartworms.

Treatment can cost upwards of $1000+ and it’s also dangerous because some of the worms must be killed but to kill them all will cause cardiac collapse and death.  So treatments must be spread out over a few weeks.

Treatments are also VERY PAINFUL for your dog.  The injection and injection sight become painful for the majority of dogs.

And, treatment requires complete crate rest while the treatments are ongoing (for several weeks) because exercise during treatment can cause more strain on the heart and cause death.

So if we have learned anything about signs of worms in dogs, symptoms, diagnosis, and treatments; I hope that we have learned that prevention is WAAAAAAAY better and cheaper than treatment.

Interestingly as I sit here and write this article we had a new case diagnosed just this week in our clinic!  He is probably one of a handful of dogs just our clinic has seen in MD.

Talk to your veterinarian about prevention today!

The post Signs of Worms in Dogs… And How To PREVENT Your Dog From Getting Worms In The First Place! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/2W7mRho via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Guilty Dogs Caught In The Act: Here Are The WINNERS!

I have two big announcements today…

First, I’m excited to announce that we have reviewed all the entries to our “Dogs Caught In The Act” VIDEO CONTEST.

From those who qualified with videos that met our entry guidelines, we drew the names of 10 winners, who will each be receiving a $100 Amazon.com GIFT CARD.

Plus, we drew the names of 7 more lucky dog parents who will be receiving a FREE COPY of our *just released* “Perfect At Home: House Manners Training For Dogs.”

THANK YOU to everyone who participated and sent us guilty dog videos… funny dog videos… and downright bad dog videos! 

For fun, and to celebrate the launch of “Perfect At Home,” I’ve created this fun compilation of “bad dog” videos from our contest entries. (See above!)

I hope you enjoy it.

And if your dog is a “brat” who could use a Manners Makeover, then I would encourage you to check out “Perfect At Home.”

Just released today—it’s everything you need to transform your dog from “THE BRAT” to the perfect gentleman (or lady).

Plus, until March 4th at 11:59 p.m. PST we’re celebrating the release by giving away 15 MORE amazing prizes, valued at over $1,157.98.

Now, without further ado, here are our lucky winners with guilty dogs, caught in the act!

Click Here To Get All The Details NOW!

  GRAND PRIZE Winners Each Receive A $100 Amazon Gift Card

Ailsa Winton

Cherrie Westwood

Christina Daugherty

Dina Schulman

Joan Harper

Lexandra Creitz

Rebecca Hye

Stephanie

Tami Lallo

Terri Malen

  RUNNER UP Winners Each Receive a FREE COPY of “Perfect At Home”

Erin

Kathy Rose

Steve Shapiro

Allison Keith

Barb Paulson

Jane Cornelius

Debbie Mann

  The post Guilty Dogs Caught In The Act: Here Are The WINNERS! appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/2urCYeP via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Getting Started with Dog Whistle Training

Dog whistle training is an effective way to develop control over your dog while he is either physically out of sight or out of earshot of a voice command. Working dogs such as hunting dogs, search and rescue, and show dogs often need to have numerous ways to communicate with their handler. Dog whistle training helps keep animals safe while doing their jobs for humans.

However, working dogs aren’t the only ones that can benefit from whistle training. You can learn to use a whistle to help any dog respond better to commands and even stop a dog from barking. Professional dog trainers agree that consistency is the key with all dog training.

Understanding Dog Whistle Training

  Training your puppy using a whistle has advantages over using voice commands. While you’ll have to practice using a dog whistle, once you get the hang of it, training your dog becomes much easier. He’ll know exactly what you want him to do through consistent commands. Like all training, dog whistle training becomes much easier when practicing the right things.

Voice commands can get inconsistent quickly. When you use voice commands, your tone of voice may accidentally communicate frustration or anger. Training an energetic (and at times stubborn) animal will test even those with the best of patience. If you lose your patience, your pup will recognize that you’re not happy and he’ll get confused. When you first start whistle training, first master basic voice commands followed by the whistle.

If you and your dog compete in dog trials, the dog whistle has clear advantages. When using your voice to give one command, you may place your body incorrectly leading to an inaudible command, thus confusion and errors. Using a dog whistle may help you to avoid these types of human errors.

Getting a New Puppy: Positive Reinforcement Training

Puppies start learning as soon as they are born. Good pet owners and breeders begin working on socializing puppies early and start basic obedience training when puppies are just weeks old.  As soon as a puppy opens his eyes and begins walking, you can start some training. Just like human babies, a puppy’s attention span is short. Whistle training that uses higher frequencies that you might not even hear isn’t what you want to do first.

You need to start with simple voice commands that you can also hear and control. Realize that the short attention span means you can’t work for hours with your puppy. In fact, you’ll want to work for just a few minutes at a time. A good frequency of training sessions is three times a day where your puppy can succeed. Keep them short and sweet, focusing on one command at a time (sit, stay, down, and come). As soon as the puppy is 7 to 8 weeks old with a good handle on simple voice commands, you can begin whistle training.

From a Verbal Cue to Whistle Commands

Early training often uses a short leash with voice commands and positive reinforcement training such as loving pets or treats. This sets up an environment for success. Begin training your puppy with basic commands including sit, down, stay, and come. Using treats or dry food for a reward will let your puppy know when he has done what you told him to do.

Pro tip: If your puppy does something wrong and you want him to come to you, don’t use “come” to correct him. If your intent is to discipline him, he will quickly associate “come” with something bad. This is why short leash training is effective in controlling young distracted puppies – essentially, they can’t escape your commands.

When you begin practicing whistle commands, say a basic voice command and then give the whistle sequence. Because your puppy already knows voice commands, he will now associate it with the whistle as well. For instance, if you want to train your dog to sit away from you. Give a single, short blast. When you give the “recall” command, create a different whistle command. A few short whistles in succession is the most common recall whistle command.

Keeping whistle commands in alignment with common practice is good for two reasons. First, it allows any handler to control your dog if necessary. Second, many dog whistles are silent to human ears. You may not realize your dog is hearing a command from another dog owner. Consistency is critical for your dog’s success and safety.

High Frequencies and Dog Ears

Your dog’s hearing is so much more intense than a human’s hearing ability. They hear higher-pitched sounds well above the level that we can ever hope to hear. Human ears aren’t able to hear much higher than 20,000 hertz which is the top of the range of the human voice but a dog can easily hear a sound that reaches from 47,000 to about 65,000 hertz.

Dogs’ ancestors are wolves, who survived by being able to hear the tiniest sound so they could capture and eat prey. In fact, a dog’s hearing is so sensitive he can detect earthquakes before humans feel it because he can hear the rumbling. It also means that a vacuum cleaner will be painfully loud to him – which is why he’ll freak out when you try to clean up all that dog hair.

A dog’s hearing is so acute that he can pick out the difference between a C-natural and a C-sharp. Ultrasonic whistles work at such a high frequency that our ears can’t hear the sound – but your dog can. These ultrasonic sounds are also loud to dogs, getting their attention. In fact, they can be like a bullhorn next to their ears. Keep that in mind as you blow – it doesn’t need to be with your full lung force for them to hear it.

How Dog Whistles Work

When you blow through the mouthpiece of your dog whistle, a high-pitched sound comes from the other end. These whistles are made from different materials, such as metal or plastic. Choose from either pealess whistles or those with a small pea-like ball inside.  Each whistle has its own tone and pitch. This is vital to keep in mind as you consider what you want to buy. If you choose an ultrasonic whistle, train your dog consistently.

The whistle you choose should allow you to teach your dog so he carries out commands. But, remember that if you buy a whistle and lose it, it’s not just a matter of finding a replacement to buy and begin using the next day.  It needs to be compatible. The sound and tone of the new whistle may be completely different from what you had before.

This means that your dog has to go through a new training period as you teach her to respond to the new whistle. While he’ll recognize the sequence of sounds, he won’t recognize the pitch or tone and you may have to play with the adjustable frequency feature to fine-tune things. This means you’re going to have to teach your dog to recognize the sounds from your new whistle. This may take from 10 to 14 days. Knowing you may lose a whistle, have an exact backup whistle just in case.

Training Your Dog with Whistles

The process of training follows many of the same principles of positive reinforcement training. You want to set up training where you control your dog, give consistent commands, and reward success.

Leash Dog and Enclosed Areas

Thanks four paws training

Pups that get distracted or overly-excited can’t listen to your commands very well. Move to a quiet room with few distractions. Have a special dog treat or a favorite toy handy so that when he responds correctly you can reward him.

Schedule training for a time when your dog is likely to be hungry. Remember the frequency of training is critical to success. The process is simple: voice command followed by whistle command, when your dog complies, a treat reward is given.

If your puppy is stubborn, leash on him and use a head collar so you can have additional control. With his leash and a head collar, you’ll won’t be chasing your dog around or having to repeat the command. As soon as he obeys, release the pressure.

Treat Training: The Best in Positive Reinforcement Rewards

Ideally, your dog finds your love and affection to be the absolute best reward for following commands. However, an irresistible liver treat is so tempting and captivating, that it will keep his attention long enough for you to give a command and get a response. Some dogs will work for any treat while others need slightly more aromatic treats to waft the right smell to their noses.

A treat pouch is a great way to keep treats on hand so you can quickly do short training sessions. It doesn’t take long for your dog to know that the treat pouch means goodies and he will only get them for following commands. As your dog learns the commands, alter the reward with praise and loving belly rubs for the treat. This shows your dog that there are other rewards for obedience and ultimately your love and praise are what drives most dogs to follow commands.

  Give a Whistle Command Only Once

As with any command you give your dog, give it only once and make sure you can reinforce the desired action. This means when you start going with whistles exclusively, you will need to make sure your dog is crystal clear on what the whistle command is. Some dog owners give a voice command repeatedly, expecting their dog to obey. This is a mistake. Your dog actually learns that it’s okay to delay obeying your command until he’s ready.

The same pitfall happens with inexperienced whistle command trainers. Give commands only once, then wait for a few beats and force compliance with the leash and collar. By whistling the same command over and over, you’re training your dog that disobeying commands is okay.

Slowly Phase Food Rewards Out

At first, give your pup a treat every time he responds correctly to any command, voice or whistle. As positive reinforcement training, the treats give immediately after the command is successfully done explain to your dog that they did the correct behavior. As he becomes consistent with commands, phase out treats and replace them with love and petting.

As more time passes, treats are less important than a “good boy” and a pat on his head. These are your “secondary reinforcers,” which are replacing the treats. Having multiple ways to reward your dog is important to getting compliance even when food isn’t around or convenient.

Secondary reinforcers are important for two reasons. First, you don’t want your dog to respond only to a treat. Second, you may not always have treats ready when you want heim to obey. Remember that working dogs are often far away receiving commands – treats aren’t convenient.

Short Training Sessions Daily

Your puppy has a short attention span. A higher frequency of short training sessions will be much more effective in helping her to learn to obey your commands. You may only be able to start with a few minutes in the first few sessions.

Try to work up to several 15-minute training sessions daily. Keep sessions short. Focus on the basic commands such as stay, sit, and down. You don’t want to extend training to the point that your dog is tired and starts to make mistakes. Short now is the best plan for long-term success.

Once he is used to obeying you in a quiet room, expand training, moving to every room of your home and outside. Get the rest of your family involved in training so that your dog obeys each member of your family.

Include these commands into daily events. For instance, during feeding, tell him (or give the whistle command) for “sit.” Use this command at other times such as when you want him to sit before allowing him in or out of the house.

Whistles for Deaf Dogs

Deaf dogs have developed a problem within their ears, reducing their ability to hear well. Some breeds are more prone to deafness from birth as a congenital issue while other working dogs such as gun dogs develop damage from being around loud noises. If your dog isn’t completely deaf, he may be able to respond to a lower frequency whistle – one audible to the human ear.

It is difficult, if not impossible for hard-of-hearing dogs to hear a regular training whistle. Add a lower-frequency or emergency whistle to your training toolbox. These whistles are extremely loud at hit lower-frequencies many hard-of-hearing dogs are able to hear and discern. Add hand signals to your training routines so that your dog will learn various cues by sound and sight.

Even though he is hard-of-hearing, your dog may continue to respond to your cue during training sessions. Practice and train outside with your dog where you can control him but help him learn the cues of a louder whistle. Keep in mind that most of these whistles for hard-of-hearing dogs are audible to you so be prepared with your own hearing protection as you start to work farther distances that require louder whistle blows.

Hunting Dogs and Gun Dogs

Begin to train your hunting dogs early, when they are still puppies. Using a professional dog trainer can help training. Learning from others with experience will help a new dog owner and trainer avoid common mistakes.

A whistle is essential for hunting dog training because they are almost always out of sight or human voice range at some point in a hunt. Hunting dogs will learn how to respond to a whistle commands such as heeling (perhaps with a horse), swimming and retrieving. Retriever field trials involve each one of these activities, including running through small ponds.

Gun dog training teaches your pet to search and flush, hunt and retrieve game that has been shot. It’s important to get gun dogs conditioned to the sounds of gunshots but keep that conditioning separate with obedience training at first.

Safety Issues for Dogs

Any time you take your dog out for training time, safety the most important thing to keep in mind. You don’t want your pup or dog running into traffic, interacting with an aggressive dog, or wild animal. Make sure training environments are safe and secure when he is learning until he consistently pays attention to your signals and the whistle at all times.

Hunting and working dogs tend to do anything and everything to complete the job. This means they can find themselves in dangerous water or approaching aggressive animals. This is why you need to have total control over your dog and be aware of his surroundings to recall him when he is in danger.

Final Thoughts

Whether you are training your dog from the beginning or for a specific activity, consistency in commands, whistles, and training is key. Most dog owners who utilize whistle commands mix them up with voice commands and often hand signals depending on the situation. This simply gives your dog three ways to communicate with you regardless of the physical environment obstacles such as sightline or external noises.

If you are having issues with getting your puppy or older dog to properly respond to voice, whistle, or hand signal commands, check in with a professional dog trainer. Trainers are the best way to troubleshoot training issues.

  The post Getting Started with Dog Whistle Training appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/35lC689 via IFTTT

[azworkingdogs]

Featured Dog Breed: Weimaraner

Weimaraners are a devoted dog breed who want to be with people all of the time, which can be unnerving. But if you enjoy always having a dog by your side — and can spare plenty of time for hiking, jogging, or hunting — the Weimaraner can be an ideal canine sidekick.

Today, we’ll take a look at the Weimaraner dog breed, including its temperament, health, history, appearance, and grooming!

Weimaraner Temperament

Weimaraners can be friendly, happy, fearless, intelligent, curious and playful. They are very good with children and can be extremely attached to their family. They require a lot of attention, and they become deeply attached to their owners and will want to follow you everywhere. They make great watch dogs and are very protective of their families. 

Weimaraners have an incredible level of energy, and they need to run everyday. They enjoy almost all activities, including jogging with you, running alongside your bike, hiking with you, swimming, agility, and retrieving. It is said that no one has reported something a Weimaraner couldn’t do. 

On the flip side, these dogs cannot be ignored. If ignored, they can bark excessively, soil the house, or just plain destroy your house in minutes! They have been known to chew, chase cats, and steal food off the kitchen counter. They need to be well socialized to counter these tendencies. 

Owning a Weimaraner is a full-time job, but one that pays off in dividends if they are well treated and well trained.

His personality can range from in-charge to laidback. Males tend to be sweet, while females have more spunk. Puppies with more prey drive and independence do well in the field, while those who are easygoing and upbeat are best suited for companion homes. If you’re hoping to show, opt for puppies with outgoing and confident attitudes. 

And, if you pick up a puppy and he doesn’t settle down in your arms quickly, it’s a clue that he’s going to be highly energetic — the same is true if he bosses the other puppies — so think long and hard about whether he’s the right kind of dog for you. For most of us, the best choice is the nice, middle-of-the-road puppy who is neither too bossy nor too shy.

Fortunately, Weims are sensitive, smart, and aim to please, which gives you a head start with training, especially if you start early. A young Weimaraner will test you to see how much he can get away with, so try to get him into puppy kindergarten class by the time he is 10 to 12 weeks old, and socialize, socialize, socialize. 

However, be aware that many puppy training classes require certain vaccines (like kennel cough) to be up to date, and many veterinarians recommend limited exposure to other dogs and public places until puppy vaccines (including rabies, distemper and parvovirus) have been completed. In lieu of formal training, you can begin training your puppy at home and socializing him among family and friends until puppy vaccines are completed.

As lovable as he is, the Weimaraner can be high-maintenance. He needs lots of social interaction and reassurance to establish that confident, devoted Weimaraner attitude. He’ll also introduce you to two fundamental laws of nature: A Weim at rest is bored and a bored Weimaraner is destructive. So plan to keep him busy or he’ll put his own plan into action — like noshing on rugs and walls — and you probably won’t like it.

Weimaraners enjoy running, hunting, going for walks, boating, swimming — essentially anything, as long as it involves being with you. (Tip: These dogs live to chase any object that moves, including runners, bikers, kids, and other animals, so confine him to a safely fenced yard and always walk him on leash.) 

When it comes to dog sports, they love agility, tracking, and hunt tests. In fact, be prepared for gifts of dead things: frogs, birds, the nice cat that’s been hanging around the yard. Your Weim doesn’t know that she’s your neighbor’s cat; he’s primed to hunt furry things and that’s what he does. And never reject his gifts or punish him, which could severely damage your relationship.

A Weimaraner loves you and wants to please you, but he’s also an independent thinker who likes to have his own way. He’ll be pushy and challenging — and not just during adolescence. In the case of the Weimaraner, the “teen” years can start at six months and continue until the dog is about two years old. 

Training a Weim calls for sensitivity, firmness with a light touch, and a superb sense of humor. It takes a very smart person to stay one step ahead of a Weimaraner, and even then, there’s still plenty of room to be outwitted by one of these dogs. 

Weimaraner Appearance

German Weimaraners usually weigh between 55 to 85 pounds and stand approximately 23 to 27 inches tall. They are a large dog with a trim, athletic and muscular build. They have a short coat that comes in various shades of gray. Their nickname is “The Grey Ghost.”

Generally speaking, the Weimaraner is a large dog with an athletic build and good muscle tone. The coloring of the Weimaraner ranges from mousy gray to silvery gray. His coat is sleek, smooth, and close fitting, and he sports an alert and eager expression. The weight of the Weimaraner is around 55-70 pounds for females, and 75-90 pounds for males. The height of these dogs is around 23-25 inches for females, and around 25-27 inches for males.

Weimaraner Grooming

Although the Weimaraner requires a pretty much no-fuss approach to grooming, he will need to be brushed on a regular basis in order to keep his coat sleek and in good condition. With regular brushing shedding is kept to a minimum with the Weim, which means that he may prove suitable for some allergy sufferers.

The Weimaraner’s short coat is easy to maintain: Brush it with a rubber curry brush at least once a week. The brush removes dead hair that would otherwise end up on your floor, furniture, and clothing. Weimaraners shed, so the more you brush, the less hair you’ll have flying around. And bathe your Weimaraner only when he’s dirty, which shouldn’t be very often. 

The Weimaraner is a hunting dog, so good foot condition is important. Keep his toenails trimmed short. Last but not least, brush his teeth with a vet-approved pet toothpaste for good overall health and fresh breath.

Weimaraner Health Problems and Life Expectancy

All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems, so it’s important to choose your breeder wisely. Weimaraner breeders should know about several conditions, including hip dysplasia, hypothyroidism, tricuspid dysplasia (a congenital heart disease), and eye problems like corneal dystrophy and entropion.

A small percentage of Weimaraner puppies can develop an autoimmune reaction following vaccination. It usually manifests as a condition called hypertrophic osteodystrophy, a painful condition that can affect the bones. 

To help prevent such reactions, breeders recommend giving each vaccination separately, rather than all on the same day. The Weimaraner Club of America (WCA) does not recommend giving vaccines for coronavirus, leptospirosis, Bordetella, and Lyme disease, unless the diseases are prevalent in your locale. Ask your veterinarian if your dog should be vaccinated against any of these diseases.

Weimaraners can also have elevated levels of uric acid in their urine, predisposing them to form painful bladder and kidney stones, which may require surgery. This condition, known as hyperuricosuria, is inherited. A DNA test for the condition is available from the University of California at Davis Veterinary Genetics Laboratory.

Not all of these conditions are detectable in a growing puppy, and it can be hard to predict whether an animal will be free of these maladies, which is why you must find a reputable breeder who is committed to breeding the healthiest animals possible.  They should be able to produce independent certification that the parents of the dog (and grandparents, etc.) have been screened for these defects and deemed healthy for breeding. That’s where health registries come in.

The Weimaraner Club of America participates in the Canine Health Information Center (CHIC), a health database. Breeders must agree to have all test results, positive or negative, published in the database, which can be accessed by anyone who wants to check the health of a puppy’s parents.

Before Weimaraners can be issued a CHIC number, breeders must submit hip and thyroid evaluations from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) and eye test results from the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). PennHip certification of hips is also accepted. Another optional test that’s recommended: a DNA screening for hyperuricosuria from the University of California at Davis Veterinary Genetics Lab. To be safe, many breeders also test hearts and elbows. 

Weimaraner History

The Weimaraner dates back to the early 19th century where they were developed in Weimar, Germany. The noblemen who bred them loved to hunt and wanted a dog with courage, intelligence, stamina, speed, and good scenting ability. 

The breeds they used to create the Weimaraner include the Bloodhound, the English Pointer, the German Shorthaired Pointer, the blue Great Dane, and the silver-gray Huehnerhund, or chicken dog. They were originally bred as big-game hunters for bear, deer, and wolves, but they eventually hunted birds, rabbits, and foxes. 

They were and are excellent pointers and all-around hunters. Weimaraners made their way to America in the early 1900’s, and then after World War II many American servicemen brought Weimaraners home with them where they quickly grew in popularity. Weimaraners were recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1942. 

Finding A Weimaraner Breeder

Selecting a respected breeder is a great way to find the right puppy. Reputable breeders will welcome questions about temperament and health clearances, as well as explain the history of the breed and what kind of puppy makes for a good pet. Don’t be shy about describing exactly what you’re looking for in a dog — breeders interact with their puppies daily and can make accurate recommendations once they know something about your lifestyle and personality.

To start your search, check out the website of the Weimaraner Club of America (WCA), which offers resources for finding a good breeder. Select a breeder that has agreed to abide by the club’s code of ethics, specifying that members not place weim puppies prior to 12 weeks of age, prohibits the sale of puppies through pet stores, and calls for the breeder to obtain recommended health clearances before breeding.

Lots of breeders have websites, so how can you tell who’s good and who’s not? Red flags to look out for: multiple litters on the premises, puppies always being available, having your choice of any puppy, and being offered the option to pay online with a credit card. 

Breeders who sell puppies at a lower price “without papers” are unethical and should be reported to the American Kennel Club. You should also bear in mind that buying a puppy from a website that offers to ship the dog immediately can be a risky venture — it leaves you no recourse if what you get isn’t exactly what you expected.

Whether you’re planning to get your new best friend from a breeder, a pet store, or another source, don’t forget that old adage “let the buyer beware”. Disreputable breeders and facilities that deal with puppy mills can be hard to distinguish from reliable operations. 

There’s no 100% guaranteed way to make sure you’ll never purchase a sick puppy, but researching the breed (so you know what to expect), checking out the facility (to identify unhealthy conditions or sick animals), and asking the right questions can reduce the chances of heading into a disastrous situation. 

And don’t forget to ask your veterinarian, who can often refer you to a reputable breeder, breed rescue organization, or other reliable source for healthy puppies.

The cost of a Weim puppy varies depending on the breeder’s locale, the sex of the puppy, the titles that the puppy’s parents have, and whether the puppy is best suited for the show ring or a pet home. Puppies should be temperament tested, vetted, dewormed, and socialized to give them a healthy, confident start in life. 

While most Weimaraners have good dispositions, a breeder who has American Temperament Test Society (TT) certification on her dogs is preferable. If you put as much effort into researching your puppy as you would when buying a new car, it will save you money in the long run.

Before you decide to buy a puppy, consider whether an adult Weimaraner may better suit your lifestyle. Puppies are loads of fun, but they require a good deal of time and effort before they grow up to be the dog of your dreams. An adult may already have some training, and he’ll probably be less active, destructive, and demanding than a puppy. 

With an adult, you know more about what you’re getting in terms of personality and health and you can find adults through breeders or shelters. If you are interested in acquiring an older dog through breeders, ask them about purchasing a retired show dog or if they know of an adult dog who needs a new home. If you want to adopt a dog, read the advice below on how to do that.

Adopting a Weimaraner

There are many great options available if you want to adopt a dog from an animal shelter or breed rescue organization. Here is how to get started.

Use the Web

Sites like Petfinder.com and Adopt-a-Pet.com can have you searching for a Weimaraner in your area in no time flat. The site allows you to be very specific in your requests (housetraining status, for example) or very general (all the Weimaraners available on Petfinder across the country). AnimalShelter.org can help you find animal rescue groups in your area. Also some local newspapers have “pets looking for homes” sections you can review.

Social media is another great way to find a dog. Post on your Facebook page that you are looking for a specific breed so that your entire community can be your eyes and ears.

Reach Out to Local Experts

Start talking with all the pet pros in your area about your desire for a Weimaraner. That includes vets, dog walkers, and groomers. When someone has to make the tough decision to give up a dog, that person will often ask her own trusted network for recommendations.

Talk to Breed Rescue

Most people who love Weimaraners love all Weimaraners. That’s why breed clubs have rescue organizations devoted to taking care of homeless dogs. The Weimaraner Club of America’s rescue network can help you find a dog that may be the perfect companion for your family. You can also search online for other Weimaraner rescues in your area.

The great thing about breed rescue groups is that they tend to be very upfront about any health conditions the dogs may have and are a valuable resource for advice. They also often offer fostering opportunities so, with training, you could bring a Weimaraner home with you to see what the experience is like.

Key Questions to Ask

You now know the things to discuss with a breeder, but there are also questions you should discuss with shelter or rescue group staff or volunteers before you bring home a dog. These include:

–          What is his energy level?

–          How is he around other animals?

–          How does he respond to shelter workers, visitors, and children?

–          What is his personality like?

–          What is his age?

–          Is he housetrained?

–          Has he ever bitten or hurt anyone that they know of?

–          Are there any known health issues?

Wherever you acquire your Weimaraner, make sure you have a good contract with the seller, shelter or rescue group that spells out responsibilities on both sides. Petfinder offers an Adopters Bill of Rights that helps you understand what you can consider normal and appropriate when you get a dog from a shelter. In states with “puppy lemon laws,” be sure you and the person you get the dog from both understand your rights.

Puppy or adult, take your Weimaraner to your veterinarian soon after adoption. Your veterinarian will be able to spot problems, and will work with you to set up a preventive regimen that will help you avoid many health issues.

  ==============

Learn more about the Weimaraner Vorstehhund.

Weimaraner Temperament

The Weimaraner is a very strong minder, independent, and energetic dog, with bags so stamina. These large dogs have boundless energy, and need to be in a household that is active, as well as with people that have plenty of time and devotion to dedicate to a pet. Thee dogs do not like to be confined or neglected, and this can lead to boredom, frustration, and destructive behavior. These dogs need early socialization, consistent training, and a confident, assertive owner with some experience of dog ownership and training. The Weimaraner will delight in taking part in a range of outdoors activities with his owner, and is the ideal companion for those that enjoy outdoor recreation. Although the Weimaraner can be very strong willed, which can make training a challenge, he is also highly intelligent and responsive with the right trainer. Some Weimaraners can be difficult to housebreak.

The Weimaraner tends to get along okay with children, but his large size may mean that he inadvertently knocks down a small child. He can be bossy with other dogs, and smaller animals may be viewed as prey, including cats. When it comes to strangers the Weimaraner is cautious and wary. He does make an effective watchdog and will raise the alarm if something appears to be amiss. Although the Weimaraner can seem like a handful, these large dogs make excellent companions and pets for owners with the time, energy, and training ability to handle them effectively.

Weimaraner Appearance

The Weimaraner is a large dog with an athletic build and good muscle tone. Known as the ‘Silver Ghost’, the coloring of the Weimaraner ranges from mousy gray to silvery gray. His coat is sleek, smooth, and close fitting, and he sports an alert and eager expression. The weight of the Weimaraner is around 55-70 pounds for females, and 75-90 pounds for males. The height of these dogs is around 23-25 inches for females, and around 25-27 inches for males.

Weimaraner Grooming

Although the Weimaraner requires a pretty much no-fuss approach to grooming, he will need to be brushed on a regular basis in order to keep his coat sleek and in good condition. With regular brushing shedding is kept to a minimum with the Weimaraner, which means that he may prove suitable for some allergy sufferers.

Weimaraner Health Problems and Life Expectancy

The life expectancy of the Weimaraner is around 10-12 years. There are a number of health problems to look out for with this breed, and this includes entropion, heart problems, spinal problems, digestive issues, bleeding disorders, PRA, HD, elbow dysplasia, HOD, PRA, torsion, bloat, cancer, skin problems, and thyroid problems. The parents of the Weimaraner puppy should have OFA and CERF certificates.

Weimaraner History

The history of the Weimaraner dates back over a century, and he originates from Germany. Bred to hunt bear, wild boar, and deer, this breed started to become popular in the USA, Canada, and England after the Second World War. The breed was registered with the AKC in 1943.

http://www.justdogbreeds.com/weimaraner.html

The post Featured Dog Breed: Weimaraner appeared first on TheDogTrainingSecret.com.

from TheDogTrainingSecret.com https://ift.tt/33RzCOE via IFTTT