craftingvt

[craftingvt]

All Tapped Out

Several months ago we set out into the green hills of Vermont in an attempt to discover the meaning of craft. People have travelled across the country in search of the best artisanal cheeses, craft beers, and other craft products, and many of them have found these treasures in our home state. Vermont’s legacy in craft foods draws from its history and values. The people of Vermont have always shared a close tie to the land and the products born from its soil. Of these products, we chose to investigate artisanal cheese, maple syrup, apple craft and craft beer.

  When it comes to artisan cheese I think Vermont’s success is tied to it’s long held association with dairy and cheese.  People have been making cheese in Vermont for hundreds of years; it’s a tradition that goes back to the first English colonists who brought the knowledge and technology.  Because the northeastern colonies provided little to no financial benefits for England, they were left to fend for themselves for the most part, which resulted in the determined, self-reliant, independent attitude that continues to describe New Englanders.  And I think this attitude and concern with tradition is what makes Vermont cheesemakers so good at what they do.  They are people who value quality or quantity, traditional production techniques, family values, and hard-work.  They produce food with character, which is highly valued by consumers trying to escape the mass-produced products that have been taking over American markets.  Vermont has a reputation for resisting over-industrialization and staying true to traditions, which is part of what makes it such a welcoming place for artisan cheesemakers.  

  Much like Vermont craft cheese, Vermont maple syrup producers take pride in their ability to offer products  that have been crafted in what is perceived to be the “traditional” Vermont way - or, when produced using more conventional, modern techniques, the satisfaction with the final result as a food product that is more than just food, but also a way of keeping Vermont folklore and family tradition alive. Unlike the Vermont craft beer industry, maple syrup producers and distributors appear to be primarily focused on perpetuating the idea of maple syrup production as a highly valued old Vermont tradition. Producers therefore tend to market more through the imagery of Vermont as an undisturbed farmland with rolling hills, miles of maple trees, and, of course, enough delicious “old-fashioned”, pure maple syrup to unite and re-unite friends and family from both in-state and across the country. After all, can you really say you’ve experienced Vermont until you’ve tried some real maple syrup?

  For many apple orchardists in the state of Vermont the relationship they form with their customers is fundamental to their operation. It is a personal relationship that grounds the owner into the community and establishes a reputation for the business. Most apple craft products are targeted at upper-middle class consumers due to the high prices. While the prices deter some, it is through these craft products that many can make their businesses viable. In addition to the orchardists many individuals are trying their hand at producing hard cider. Vermont Hard Cider is the largest producer of hard cider in the country, and has helped open up the market for more producers interested in the craft. With the market expanding at such a fast rate, as far as Vermont apple craft goes, hard cider is where the money is.  

   The production of craft beer has become central to what it means to be from Vermont. Vermont is now recognized on an international level as a state that is rich with high quality craft beers (the best in the world!), produced by independently owned, small breweries. In Vermont, as in other places, the brewers expressed a rejection of the speed, mechanization, and homogenization of the corporate beer industry, and embraced tradition, culture, diversity and quality. The consumers of Vermont beer herald it for its flavor and innovation. Contrary to other craft products, the perception of craft beer does not emphasize traditional Vermont, but rather the progressive, food sophisticated, state, that has a bounty of sensory pleasure to imbue on its visitors. Residents within the state display pride and ownership over the success of Vermont beer, and they often pledge a loyalty to it. And if they don’t solely drink Vermont beer, many of them drink domestic craft beer. There is still room in the market for more craft beer, the industry grew by 15% last year! And until the craft beer market occupies an equal share of the industry as the conglomerates, the revolution will brew on.

  Craft foods have taken on a romanticized image, turning Vermont into a brand name. While most of these products could be considered elitist, it is through these higher prices that enable most producers to persist and provide us with the classic products we have grown to love. The exchange of craft goods is much more than just a simple transaction. It is an experience; one grounded in tradition and community.

[craftingvt]

Vermont Craft Beer: "Small State, Big Beer", Deconstructing Definitions of Craft

-Kaitrin

            The craft beer revolution began in the late 1970’s, and was a direct reaction to the corporate style mass production beer that had homogenized the American beer market, and was extending to a global scale. The revolution, and the pioneers of craft/microbrewing (microbrewing is now called craft) rejected what they saw as the failures or evils of the mainstream beer industry. The home brewers turned microbrewers were motivated by a dedication to quality and whole ingredients over quantity, a focus on grass roots movements and independent ownership, and an attempt to bring diversity back to a uniform market. The definitions of what constitutes a craft brewery and what is craft, are delineated by the Brewer’s Association. Within these definitions, the direct rejections of the corporate beer industry can be seen. 

The American Brewer’s Association divides the craft beer industry into four defined categories: brewpubs, microbreweries, regional craft breweries, and contract brewing companies.

The following definitions are directly from the Brewer’s Association website:

  Microbrewery:

   A brewery that produces less than 15,000 barrels (17,600 hectoliters) of beer per year with 75% or more of its beer sold off-site.

Microbreweries sell to the public by one or more of the following methods: the traditional three-tier system (brewer to wholesaler to retailer to consumer); the two-tier system (brewer acting as wholesaler to retailer to consumer); and, directly to the consumer through carryouts and/or on-site tap-room or restaurant sales.

Brewpub:

A restaurant-brewery that sells 25% or more of its beer on site. The beer is brewed primarily for sale in the restaurant and bar. The beer is often dispensed directly from the brewery's storage tanks. Where allowed by law, brewpubs often sell beer "to go" and /or distribute to off site accounts. Note: BA re-categorizes a company as a microbrewery if its off-site (distributed) beer sales exceed 75%.

  Contract Brewing Company:

A business that hires another brewery to produce its beer. It can also be a brewery that hires another brewery to produce additional beer. The contract brewing company handles marketing, sales, and distribution of its beer, while generally leaving the brewing and packaging to its producer-brewery (which, confusingly, is also sometimes referred to as a contract brewery).

  Regional Brewery: A brewery with an annual beer production of between 15,000 and 6,000,000 barrels.

  Regional Craft Brewery: An independent regional brewery who has either an all malt flagship or has at least 50% of it's volume in either all malt beers or in beers which use adjuncts to enhance rather than lighten flavor.

  Large Brewery: A brewery with an annual beer production over 6,000,000 barrels.

   The Brewer’s Association defines a craft brewer, in which they must encompass all three factors, as “An American craft brewer is small, independent and traditional.”

  Small:

Annual production of 6 million barrels of beer or less.

Beer production is attributed to a brewer according to the rules of alternating proprietorships.

Flavored malt beverages are not considered beer for purposes of this definition.

  Independent:

Less than 25% of the craft brewery is owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by an alcoholic beverage industry member who is not themselves a craft brewer.

  Traditional: A brewer who has either an all malt flagship (the beer which represents the greatest volume among that brewers brands) or has at least 50% of its volume in either all malt beers or in beers which use adjuncts to enhance rather than lighten flavor.

The following are some concepts related to craft beer and craft brewers:

            Craft brewers are small brewers.

            The hallmark of craft beer and craft brewers is innovation. Craft brewers interpret historic styles with unique twists and develop new styles that have no precedent.

            Craft beer is generally made with traditional ingredients like malted barley; interesting and sometimes non-traditional ingredients are often added for distinctiveness.

            Craft brewers tend to be very involved in their communities through philanthropy, product donations, volunteerism, and sponsorship of events.

            Craft brewers have distinctive, individualistic approaches to connecting with their customers.

            Craft brewers maintain integrity by what they brew and their general independence, free from a substantial interest by a non-craft brewer.

                        The majority of Americans live within 10 miles of a craft brewer.

  As you can see, the definition of craft is constructed by the rejections of the corporate beer market, the parameters of the definitions are based around size/scale, ownership, and what percentage of the sales are sold off of the premises. What is interesting is the definition of Regional Craft Brewery, it has the strictest definition and points most directly to the rejection of the ills corporate brewing, by defining what percentage of the company has to be owned independently without any economic interest and by requiring an all malt flagship beer. As was discussed in the previous blog, part of the commercial brewing history is the addition of adjuncts such as corn or rice to make the product more affordable and have a quicker and higher yield with less, raw material used. This action is seen among traditional brewers as a violation of the German law of purity or Reinheitsgebot, which says that “the only ingredients used for the brewing of beer must be Barley, Hops and Water. Whosoever knowingly disregards or transgresses upon this ordinance, shall be punished by the Court authorities' confiscating such barrels of beer, without fail.” ( ) The only ingredient that is not listed here, and that is due to the age of the law, is yeast. Clearly, corn and rice, by German law, have no place in beer. And what is more, lager, which the American corn and rice filled lagers sought to imitate, is German in origin!

            There are currently 2,403 breweries operating in the US, 2,347 of which are craft breweries.  Vermont is home to 27 of those breweries, with 6 more breweries in the process of opening. Allen VanAnda, is the owner of one of those new breweries. Located in Morrisville, Vermont, Lost Nation Brewing will be opening its doors any day.

VanAnda has been brewing craft beer in Vermont for the last 16 years, and his last position was as master brewer at the VonTrapp Family brewery in Stowe, where he crafted Austrian style lagers.

One of his first positions was as a brewer for the first incarnation of Rock Art brewery, so he has had a close relationship with craft beer since the beginning of the revival in Vermont. I asked Allen how he would define craft, after a little contemplation, he replied, “Define craft... I think the lines have gotten a bit blurry over the past 10 years.  I would define craft as a brewer that does not use adjuncts such as corn, corn syrup, rice, in the brewing process.  This being said, there are plenty of small brewers that use some of these ingredients on purpose to achieve specific results. 

(Above: VanAnda)

However, the use of adjuncts as a financial decision would make a brewer "non craft" in my humble opinion.” What Allen, has expressed are many of the definitions that are built into the Brewer’s Association’s definitions of what a craft brewery is. Seeing as Allen was once the Vice President of Vermont Brewers Assoc. it makes sense that his definition would align with that of the ABA. When we began discussing the relationship between craft breweries and Macro breweries, Allen became animated, “Macro breweries and craft.  I think macro finally now see craft as a threat.  They will continue to try to strong arm distributors to underrepresent craft but in the end, it is a free market and I believe that craft will maintain and continue it's growth.”  

I asked Allen, to think about his position as a brewer, and being a brewer that is opening a craft brewery in Vermont and to tell me what he wanted to say about the industry: 

"I think the local support and movement in VT is extremely strong, both from year round residents and tourists.  This is a huge asset in operating a brewery in VT.  In many instances, I think the consumer may give a VT product a chance, simply because it carries the VT name. " 

"As you know, many of our tourists are repeat tourists ( they visit every year or as often as they can)  I believe that this population holds a romanticism toward VT products including beer.  For companies that distribute to the markets where these tourists are from, this fact can be a very important driver of sales in said markets.  In a crowded beer market, getting the consumer to try and purchase your product can be quite difficult.  The VT name def. holds power and marketability and sometimes can help sway that initial purchase."

"VT as a state is not too business friendly.  Well, to be fair, I have not operated in other states so I guess it could be better and it could be worse.  One interesting thing about VT beer right now is we are in an evolutionary stage.  While the craft beer market grows nationwide, the scene in VT has seemed to position itself well.  We have a lot of breweries.  We have a lot of regional breweries considering our size.  We now have a bunch of new "nano breweries"  There remains plenty of room to grow.  It will be interesting to watch the evolution and see how it shakes out.    Hopefully tourism and especially beer tourism continues to grow.  For all the reasons that VT is a great vacation destination for people within a 7 hour drive, the VT beer tourism market will add yet another thing for people to visit VT for.  " 

"

When I mentioned local.  Think of the "higher end beer bars" in the state.  They do not represent VT brewers as a whole.  They pour the popular 3 and a few of the harder ones to find from here to there.  You do not see LongTrail or Magic Hat or Harpoon on tap in these places, really not in many places that I can think of at all.  Trout, Rockart, McNeills, all somewhat under represented in the market.Not sure what type of conclusions you want to draw from that but another interesting point to consider. "

A unique aspect to Vermont and Vermont businesses is the sense of community that exists. I think this extends into the producer/consumer relationship and shapes the definition of craft within Vermont. In Vermont you are never far away from your next craft beer, nor are you from the person that brewed it. Within the small, rural communities, no one’s business is relegated to the private realm. It is part of everyday conversation, each person in the community has an opinion or at least a snippet of gossip. This along with the sense of community constructs a production relationship that is characterized by proximity and transparency. Thus, if there is a brewery that is using ‘questionable’ brewing techniques, or engaging in ‘bad business’, it becomes very quickly known among the brewing community, and then the greater community of the state. So, in a way, the community acts as a set of checks and balances that are absent in the corporate beer industry. For this reason, it could be argued that there is a certain aspect of honesty associated with the Vermont consumer and for the Vermont producer. Coupled with the increased competition within the state, it has the effect of constructing a highly opinionated and politically charged brewing community. Brewers typically align with other brewers, in smaller cliques, that are surrounded around a common belief, whether that is around the type of brewing or around a mutual dislike for another brewer and the way that they are conducting business. All that being said, it really functions to keep honest, quality products on the market at (mostly) fair and representative prices.

            As far as outside perspectives on Vermont craft beer, it has become legend and almost myth. The Holy Grail for beer drinkers. How have the extremely small breweries made a name for themselves on the international scale? I believe it is social networking. Never before has it been so easy to share information and experiences with a large number of people. Ratebeer.com and BeerAdvocate.com, are craft beer social networks. Sites where beer lovers can come review beers, places, breweries, learn about new styles and have open discussions on forums that are made up of beer drinkers, brewers and other industry people from all over the world. Vermont has been known for craft beer for a few decades, but the hype that has been generated really sparked about 4 or 5 years ago, when the social networking sites started up. Suddenly, the scale of consumers far outweighed the scale of producers. Vermont really tries to keep Vermont products and money within Vermont. For beer this along with scale, keeps most of the craft beer within the state, with very few brands being exported. Thus, in order to enjoy a Vermont craft beer, it usually requires a trip to the Green Mountain State. This creates a situation of rarity, coupled with the hype produced by social networking, Vermont beer becomes legend and myth.

I asked Sean Lawson, the owner and only brewer of, Lawson’s Finest Liquids, about the demand for his beer, ““We’re not even close with keeping up with demand. I just brew as much as I can.” Lawson, brews out of a one room brewery in warren Vermont, and usually sells out of his beer on the same day that he delivers to local stores, the same of which can be said for The Alchemist and Hill Farmstead. I asked Michael Saklad, the national sales manager for Stone Brewing Co, out of San Diego, CA., what he thought about the success Vermont has had with craft. “Vermont seems to function as a kind of unofficial brand, where everything has an embedded guarantee of quality, and the experience always seems to be positive. I have been selling in Vermont for a few years now…the industry has changed dramatically and super fast. We used to be able to get on tap lines in most pubs, because we were able to offer a high quality craft product…but its getting harder now. Vermonters want Vermont beer and so do the people that travel to this state. Actually, a lot of the folks I’ve run into up here, have travelled here just for the beer or cheese. I travel here for the beer. I mean, I’m sitting here on a Wednesday, in Waterbury, VT, drinking a delicious Lawson’s with you, and not because I have to be here for business, I don’t this time, I just felt like coming up to one of my favorite places.”

I think Mike expresses an important relationship here. He has always had positive experiences when he has travelled to Vermont. He enjoys the landscape and the people. But he has experienced those things through consuming food and craft beer. So the two are intimately connected. And if one considers, the effect that smell and taste have on memory, it becomes an interesting situation in which good experiences are solidified in the memory through flavor and aroma, creating an unbreakable association, that on the whole is very good. 

            Vermont craft beer is enjoying a time in the spotlight, and its well deserved. The people behind the production, the quality of the product, and the loyalty of the local have created a situation in which now craft is king. Characterized by diversity and transparency, the Vermont craft beer industry is pushing against, and increasingly succeeding in changing the power dynamics in the national beer market. So move over, Budweiser with your corn and rice filled ‘light’ lager, Vermont has some flavor to serve back to America. 

    Works Cited:

 "Brewers Association | A Passionate Voice for Brewers." Brewers Association | A Passionate Voice for Brewers. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Apr. 2013. <http://www.brewersassociation.org/>.

 Eden, Karl J. ""History of German Brewing"" Zymurgy Magazine Special 16.4 (1993): n. pag. Web.

Saklad, Michael. Personal Conversation. On March 31, 2013.

VanAnda, Allen. Personal Conversation. April 3, 2013

Lawson, Sean. Personal Conversation. March 30, 2013

    Response:

You fit a lot of information into this post!  I'm glad you describe ways breweries are classified, I've always been a little confused by the differences.  I found the part of the post where you talk about the perception of Vermont beer really interesting.  Particularly the comment about Vermont functioning as a brand.  I feel like that's a common theme for Vermont products, I definitely got that idea from researching craft cheese.  Are Vermonter's just more proud of their products than other state populations?  There are plenty of quality products being made outside of Vermont, but they're not sought out to the same extent as Vermont products.  Maybe Vermont's pride in its own products is what attracts interest from outsiders?

Ashley

[craftingvt]

Elm Grove Farm

As discussed in my previous post, Mackenzie is a big maple syrup fan and her expressions about what maple syrup means to her adds further evidence to the claim that maple syrup is not just maple syrup. For Mackenzie, producing and consuming Vermont maple syrup is about continuing a Vermont tradition that creates a meaningful life for her and her family and friends.

In fact, sugaring goes back generations in Mackenzie’s family. She explained to me with delightful enthusiasm that the tradition goes so far back that she can’t even trace it to when it began. What she does know is that there was a long break in this tradition fifty years ago when her Grandfather was forced to close down the family sugaring operation.  Until recently, her family ceased sugaring and only gathered sap to sell to other distributors. In 2004 her uncle started up the sugaring operation again and deliberately used some of the building materials from the old sugarhouse in order to build the new one because of the sentimental value that was tied to the old house.

The operation is part of Elm Grove farm, located in Pomfret, Vermont, and is owned by Mackenzie’s Grandparents. “We have about 1000 taps; 700 on pipeline and 300 on buckets,” she explains, “I go home a lot to gather the 300 buckets.  All the buckets are on trees next to the road where they are easier to gather. The trees on pipeline are further away from road”. But collecting the sap is more than just labor- it’s also a fun time for family and friends to commune: “My mother is one of five kids and they all live in Vermont. I live 15 minutes away from the farm – when the sap is running a lot, most of family drives up to farm to gather together.  People who enjoy stopping by the farm also come to help, often with friends and family of their own”.

Today, things seem to be going pretty well. “Our name has gotten out there,” exclaims Mackenzie, “and a lot of people return every year, especially on the annual  open house weekend. My Grandmother gives out delicious homemade donut holes as a free sample to everyone who visits the sugarhouse”. 

When her uncle first began the operation they tried to sell most of their syrup to various country stores. Today, the majority of sales are made to family friends who stop by annually and the yearly regulars who stop by throughout the year. Gradually all of it ends up sold by the time the next sugaring season comes around. A lot of people who stay at the nearby Woodstock Inn will stop by and request that their products to be shipped out of state, even as far as Nebraska.

I asked Mackenzie whether they sold other maple products :

“We mainly sell syrup. In the past we’ve tried to make other products like maple candies but it’s a lot more difficult to make than we thought. It has to be the perfect consistency and the rubber molds we used could never make them come out the right way. We often make maple cream too. But you need to make a lot of it in one go because it requires you to boil the sap past the point of syrup. We still enjoy making maple candies and maple cream on our own as a family, but we don’t sell these products because it’s too difficult for us to get them just right. We do well enough with maple syrup alone to get by”.

This is interesting because it reminds us that these operations are also businesses – they can’t necessarily produce everything that they would want to or in the precise manner that they would like to. Sometimes it just makes more sense to do things a certain way given the resources and time available, and the demands.

Mackenzie also had a lot of useful information to share when I asked her what she thought compelled people to visit the sugaring facilities and what drives their purchasing choices:

“Often I find that people who have never seen sugaring before know absolutely nothing and want to know more about the process. My uncle will give them a tour of the process and the facilities. There’s a wide range of people.. some know nothing, some know a bit, some want to know more about certain process. Some people who already know a lot just want to come to watch it boil because it’s fun to watch! A lot of people want to by the syrup they saw being produced so that they can say, ‘hey, I saw this being made!’. So we often separate products from this year and last year because of the difference in value.”

She also had some interesting things to say about the questions that a lot of the visitors ask and what factor they play in their decisions as customers:

“One of the most consistent questions I get are, ‘how do you determine the grade?’ and ‘what’s the best grade? Fancy’s the best right?’, which I find a funny question because it’s really just your preference! There is no best one – it’s just that the darker the grade, the stronger the maple flavor. I like them all. I mean if you’re cooking then we recommend the darker stuff because it has stronger maple flavor so it requires less product, but if you want it on pancakes then it’s just all about what you prefer. We give them samples of what we just made and they’ll  buy whatever they enjoyed from the samples.”

I was also curious to know how her family’s operations deal with competition and whether there were any specific factors that people tend to perceive as “elite” or of higher, high-price worthy quality. In the previous post we briefly mentioned that some methods, especially those perceived as “old-fashioned”, contributed to the perception of the product as higher quality. But competition influences price as well:

“I know the prices can vary but that’s often depending on the area.. we’re right near Sugarbush which is a lot bigger than us.. we have to raise our prices in order to keep up with them. We’ll usually just put our prices a few dollars below theirs. I’ve heard that those in the northeast kingdom have lower prices because they aren’t competing with big operations like Sugarbush. Other than that, most prices hover within $15.00 of each other.  Very insignificant hierarchy compared to beer or anything else”

In addition, product presentation contributes to customer satisfaction:

“We just got glass bottles this year! It looks fancier since you can see the syrup. We used to have maple-leaf shaped bottles. But people tend to like the fancy look of the clear bottles. The jugs hold more, but you can’t see the syrup. And the glass bottles show off the quality.. since you can see the syrup you have to be extra careful about how clear it looks. My uncle figured out the best way to do this is to let it sit and reheat off-season after it is made. The clearer it looks, with less bubbles, the more appealing to customers".

I decided that the lengthiness of this post is warranted because of the rich and valuable insight that Mackenzie’s interview responses provide us with. If you have time, be sure to check out the Elm Grove farm website and pay them a visit when you’re in the area:  http://www.elmgrovefarm.com/. Thanks Mackenzie!

Sources:

Elm Grove Farm, Pomfret, Vermont. Web. 16 Apr. 2013. <http://www.elmgrovefarm.com/>.

Personal interview with Mackenzie Harrington. 4/3//2013

Photo (1): Personal photo by Mackenzie Harrington

Photo (2): Personal photo by Mackenzie Harrington

Photo (3): Elm Grove Farm Website (http://www.elmgrovefarm.com/images/stories/syrup-pics.jpg)

  Response:

I really enjoyed how personal you made this post. It created a family oriented perspective in the production of maple syrup that is very relatable to readers. You mentioned that the grandfather was forced to shut down and I was curious as to what factors led him to do that. You also mentioned that Elm Grove Farm is a business and that they are unable to produce whatever they want to for sale. Mentioning that this is the reason that most craft products are priced so high, limiting those who can afford them, could strengthen this post. I found many similarities between maple syrup production and apple craft after reading this post. Both industries emphasize the importance of personal relationships with their customers, providing them with tours and explanations of the different processes. Overall I thought your personal post was a great way to end your series on Maple Syrup.

-Tabor 

[craftingvt]

The History of Beer: The Beginnings, the Commercialization and the Revolution

-Kaitrin

            Humans have shared a close relationship with beer throughout time. In fact, some have argued that civilization was built on the foundation of the delicious fermented beverage, and that is was the driving force behind domesticating grains. Beer and brewing were a central part of lives in ancient times in the east and the west. For example, the people of ancient Mesopotamia enjoyed beer so much that it was a daily dietary staple. Paintings, poems and myths depict both human beings and their gods enjoying beer, which was consumed through a straw to filter out pieces of bread or herbs in the drink. The presence of beer in folklore, exhibits the close connection between, humans, culture and brewing. 4,000 years ago the Hymn to Ninkasi was written to the Sumerian goddess of beer and brewing,

  “You are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,

Coolness overcomes,

Ninkasi, you are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,

Coolness overcomes,

You are the one who holds with both hands the great sweet wort,

Brewing [it] with honey [and] wine

(You the sweet wort to the vessel)

Ninkasi, (...)(You the sweet wort to the vessel)                                   (Alstrom, 2000)

  This hymn even included a recipe, which later in 1989, would be revisited by the grandfather of craft beer, Fritz Maytag, the founder of Anchor Brewing. Another example of beer in folklore comes from Finland. The Finnish Saga of Kalewala sings of the creation of beer at length, devoting more lines to the creation of beer than the creation of the world, about 4,000 verses. The female brewer, Osmata, trying to make a great beer for a wedding feast, discovers the use of hops in brewing with the help of a bee she sends to gather the magical plant. The poem expresses an admiration for the effects of beer, which any modern-day drinker would recognize:

  Great indeed the reputation

Of the ancient beer of Kalew,

Said to make the feeble hardy,

Famed to dry the tears of women,

Famed to cheer the broken-hearted,

Make the aged young and supple,

Make the timid brave and mighty,

Make the brave men ever braver,

Fill the heart with joy and gladness,

Fill the mind with wisdom-sayings,

Fill the tongue with ancient legends,

Only makes the fool more foolish.           

                                                               (Winters, 2009)

  In the Finnish saga, as in the writings of the ancient Sumerians, beer was considered a magical brew from the gods endowing the drinker with health, peace of mind and happiness.

  America also has a long history with beer. The peoples of the new world, were adept in brewing, using different sources of protein, sugar rich, carbohydrates, such as corn. The pilgrims that came to the US brought with them their love for beer. In 1636, the first American brewery opened in New Amsterdam (current day Manhattan). By 1810, there were 132 breweries operating on the east coast. From this time forward, I think beer has one of the most fascinating histories; the growth of the American beer industry parallels with the prohibition movement and the IRS. In 1829, David G. Yuengling opens a brewery in Pennsylvania (which is the oldest continuously family owned brewery in the US, still in operation today). During this same year, the Temperance Society has grown to 100,000 members.  By the 1840’s some of the largest commercial breweries in the US today are starting. In 1844, Jacob Best starts Pabst brewing in Milwaukee. In 1846, Maine passes prohibition. In 1848, a large number of Germans immigrate to the US, due to unrest in their country. By the next year, August Krug starts Schlitz Brewery in Milwaukee.

By 1850, there are 431 breweries operating in the country producing 750,000 barrels of beer for a population of 23 million. In 1852, George Schneider founds the beginning of the commercial beer giant Anheuser-Busch. In the same year Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and parts of Minnesota enact prohibition laws. By 1860, most states have enacted prohibition, while at the same time; there were now, 1,269 breweries in the country producing over one million barrels of beer for a population of 31 million.

Then in 1861, the Internal Revenue service is founded, the next year they are taxing beer at a rate of $1/barrel. It could be argued that since prohibition was ultimately unsuccessful and beer culture prevailed through the pressure, the government decided to tax something that it could eradicate. However, by the end of the Great Depression and Prohibition, the number of breweries in the US had dropped down to 431. Throughout the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s the large breweries of the country Anheuser-Bush, Pabst, Schlitz and Miller (which was bought by Phillip Morris Co. in 1971), continue to grow, as they use the adjunct of rice and corn as filler in the beer making it less expensive to produce. Because of their size and capital they are able to invest in new technologies, such as the can. By 1983, there are only 50 breweries remaining in the country with 92% of the market controlled by 6 breweries; Anheuser-Busch, Miller, Heileman, Stroh, Coors and Pabst). 

The Beer industry in America followed a path of commercialization, focusing on Fordist style production, the mechanization of labor and the homogenization of a product. Through the commodification of lager, the country of consumers became distanced from their history and culture of beer. Forgetting their taste for certain styles and their ability to distinguish quality. Unable to remember the roots of beer and the process of artistry and craft that used to be involved, American beer became the corn and rice filled drink that was being mass produced by the 4 largest breweries, the good ole American Lager, which barely represented/s its German parent. 

However, there was a revolution brewing, the seeds of which had been planted in 1969, when Fritz Maytag bought Anchor Brewing in San Francisco. Considered the grandfather of craft brewing, Fritz took over Anchor Brewing and devoted himself to quality ingredients and traditional brewing methods on a small scale.

In 1978, the federal government passed law that legalized home brewing, which opened up the opportunity for beer drinkers to be able to make the styles that were no longer available on the homogenized American market. Seeking diversity in flavor and quality, home brewers led to what Charlie Papazian calls the “democratization of process…[which] has embraced, choice, diversity, information, education, grassroots activism, quality, personality, passion, pleasure, flavor (both in the real and metamorphic sense), etc..” noting that “home brewers were already fashioning their own revolution before a communication technology emerged that would later enhance the means by which revolutionary ideas and the process of democratizing innovation would be accelerated.” (Papazian, 2008) The 1980’s brought a turn back to innovation and creativity, in a move back towards smaller independently run breweries. These were mostly started by the home brewers of the 1970’s, hoping to bring diversity to the public. This was mostly in reaction to the conglomerates InBev and South African Breweries, who were buying up small breweries all over the world, and gaining control over and homogenizing the global beer market. 

Vermont was and is a leader in the craft beer movement. Catamount Brewing Co. in Windsor, VT became Vermont’s first microbrewery in 1986, followed by The Vermont Pub & Brewery, founded in Burlington in 1988, and Long Trail Brewing Co. and Otter Creek Brewing Co. in 1989. The roots of Vermont craft brewing mirror those of the rest of the country, the microbreweries of the late eighties and through nineties, were started by people that had been experimenting in home brewing. The late Greg Noonan, the father of micro brewing in Vermont, started his career as a homebrewed, “I had a neighbor who was into home brew…and he got me into it”(Franz, 2007), Noonan notes. The beginnings of micro brewing in Vermont, were interesting, Noonan remembers that “micro brewing equipment wasn’t really available, so we had to fabricate our own out of stuff used in dairies and for making maple syrup.” (Franz, 2007)

Craft brewers in Vermont are united around a sense of community, a dedication to quality and a love for their craft, which is fitting for an industry that started as a reaction against mass production. Since, that time Vermont has continued a long tradition of micro and craft brewing. And now can boast the highest number of breweries per capita than any other state, as well as, the best brewery and beer in the world. With 27 breweries operating and 6 in the process of opening, the state is rich with quality beer.

Now that the history and relationships between corporate and craft brewers have been established, the next post will seek to answer the questions of what defines craft, what does craft mean in the Vermont perspective, and what is the outside perspective of Vermont craft, how has that perspective been shaped and fostered, and what are the perspectives of the producers and consumers of craft in the state?   

Works Cited:

  Papazian, Charlie. "Beer Democracy and Open Source Brewing." Examiner.com. N.p., 27 May 2008. Web. 15 Apr. 2013. <http://www.examiner.com/article/beer-democracy-and-open-source-brewing>.

  Alstrom, Jason. "Ninkasi, the Sumerian Goddess of Brewing and Beer." BeerAdvocate. Beer Advocate, 20 Dec. 2000. Web. 15 Apr. 2013. <http://beeradvocate.com/articles/304>.

  Patton, Todd, Phd. "History of Humans and Beer." What's Brewing in Food Sciences? University of Vermont, Burlington. 6 Sept. 2012. Lecture.

  Winters, Chef. "The Commercial Beer Market." Fermentable Liquids. Culinary School of the Rockies, Boulder. 9 Nov. 2009. Lecture.

  Winters, Chef. Verses on Beer in Kalewala. Boulder: Culinary School of the Rockies, 2009. Print.  

  Franz, Janet E. "Tap Dancing." Business People-Vermont: Vermont Pub and Brewery. Business People, Feb. 2007. Web. 15 Apr. 2013. <http://www.vermontguides.com/2007/02-feb/pub.html>.

  Photo Credits:  

  Ninkasi

http://sullydish.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/6a00d83451c45669e20154367be79c970c-200wi.jpg?w=580

  Kalewala

http://www.brewingexperience.ca/beer-trivia.html 

Budweiser

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Great-Vintage-Budweiser-Billboard-Ad-Photo-8-x-10-/00/s/MTI1NFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqV,!k0E9Pq9bMcyBPUYDE!H5w~~60_35.JPG

  Prohibition

https://rowellsapushistory.wikispaces.com/file/view/prohibition.jpg/62331404/prohibition.jpg

  Schlitz:

http://www.ericscheske.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Schlitz.jpg

  Greg Noonan:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2ulN28rpwjc/UQ6lrWDyafI/AAAAAAAAANE/gpCmoYLUadU/s320/greg-01.jpg

  Catamount Brewing:

http://beerme.com/graphics/brewery/1/1130/3810.jpg

  Vermont Craft Beer:

http://www.brewbokeh.com/images/porn-vt.jpg

  Fritz Maytag:

http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/anchor_maytag.jpg 

Old Time Drinking: 

http://astounde.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/4175.jpg

Response:

I really enjoyed reading your in-depth post on the history of beer. I know that beer has played a very instrumental role in the development of human cultures but I was unaware that there were Sumerian beer goddesses! You introduced Fritz Maytag very briefly early in your post as the grandfather of micro brewing. I was hoping for more about Mr. Maytag and was relieved when you followed up on him later in your post. You may consider smoothing out that transition, hinting to the reader that there will be more to read on the “grandfather” later.

The amazing spark of breweries from 1850 to 1860 despite prohibition laws is astounding, but maybe more could be said on how the industry was able to go through that brief flourish before the Great Depression.  I liked how your post provided a solid overview of beer’s history and how you were able to bring it back full-circle to Vermont. I had no idea we had the highest number of breweries per capita out of any state. It is very impressive what our state has accomplished in the craft foods arena; Vermont Hard Cider is the largest producer of hard cider in the United States. I noticed a couple small typos that could easily be corrected but aside from that, great job.  

- Tabor

[craftingvt]

By the Bushel

 Tabor deGroot

The desire to be certified as an organic producer of apples is a goal for any owner of an apple orchard.  For many, including Nick Cowles of Shelburne Orchards, the pursuit of this dream has nearly led to the demise of the business. On a very small scale, eliminating all harmful sprays may be a possibility but on a commercial level its just too difficult. “I got to the point of realizing it was either gonna be loosing the business or I had to change and do kind of a low spray direction” said Nick. “I didn’t want to do it, but then if I sold out everybody would loose”.

Fortunately Nick was able to reorient his goals and get his business back on track. Following his switch back to a low spray, Nick also made a large shift in his sales. Years ago, apple growers in Vermont were all part of a cooperative called The Apple Packers. Orchards would truck their apples to a warehouse where they would be sorted, packed and sold. Being eight miles from Burlington and overlooking Lake Champlain, Nick decided to use his location to his advantage. While most orchards in Vermont are still selling to coops or grocers, 95% of what Shelburne Orchards produces is sold on site, and the other 5% end up in a few local stores. While many orchards have become more and more independent, Nick says he still keeps in contact with other orchardists and maintains friendly relationships.

Other than for several stores in Burlington, there is very little competition in the Vermont apple industry. “The truth is there is plenty of room. I don’t think that all of the orchards in the state can supply all of the apples for the people in the state of Vermont” said Nick. When asked about the industrialized farm’s and the globalized market’s influence on his establishment, Nick claims he is exempt.  “There’s more apples from around the world. More varieties all year round. But people come here during the season. It’s a fall activity and all my apples are gone by Halloween”.

  Apples and Alcohol

  Nick’s latest adventure has been the distilling of his Dead Bird apple brandy. After getting his license to distil spirits four years ago, Nick installed two large copper stills in his packing shed. There is a mystique the distillery brings to the orchard. “Its not just an orchard, it’s a distillery where stuff is aging. It brings in this other element that really fits with the whole feeling of this place”. This new endeavor also provides Nick with another use for his cider grade apples, producing a high-grade product out of the undesired fruit. While he only sold 100 bottles last year, Nick has expanded his production and plans to sell 5-600 bottles annually in the coming years.

   While Shelburne Orchards is the only orchard in the state producing apple brandy, in recent years there has been a boom in the production and consumption of hard cider in Vermont. From the year 2010 to 2011, hard cider sales rose 23%, and off-premise sales of cider went up 65%.  Vermont Hard Cider, the producer of Woodchuck, is the largest producer of hard cider in the United States and recently sold for $305 million to the C+C Group. While some local companies have become giants in the hard cider industry, more and more producers are entering the market, with high hopes.

            Citizen Cider, launched in February 2012, arose through the friendship of three men and their desire for a new adventure. The three friends bought an old handmade cider press, and used a new garbage disposal as a grinder. In desperate need of apples, they contacted Happy Valley Orchards in Middlebury Vermont. As Citizen Cider took off, the orchard grew to meet its needs. “Working with Citizen Cider has really invigorated us to do more, to grow, to reach and do something different,” said Mary Pratt, co-owner of Happy Valley Orchards.

With the increasing number of hard cider producers, orchards are being hard pressed for their cider apples. While some orchards are able to supply them with the apples they need, many orchards already have ties with regular cider producers, such as Cold Hollow.  The mutually beneficial relationship between Citizen Cider and Happy Valley Orchards has given Citizen Cider an opportunity to provide a steady supply of their product to their consumers. They are looking to increase their production by 400%, from 400 to 2,000 gallons next year.

  The hard cider industry is growing at an incredible rate, providing us with an ever-increasing array of craft apple products. If you like hard cider, I suggest picking up a bottle of Unified Press from Citizen Cider. You will not be disappointed.

    Here is a link to Shelburne Orchards Distillery page for more on the Dead Bird apple brandy: http://www.shelburneorchards.com/distillery/

      Sources:

  Personal contact with Nick Cowles. 3/31/2013

  Furnari, Chris. "C&C Group Completes Acquisition of Vermont Hard Cider.

 Brewbound.com. N.p., 28 Dec. 2012. Web. 14 Apr. 2013. <http://www.brewbound.com/news/cc-group-completes-                                                       acquisition-of- vermont-hard-cider>.

  Schimoler, Kirsten. "MOUNTAIN PEAK: CITIZEN CIDER." Edible Green Mountains.

N.p., 11 Feb. 2013. Web. 14 Apr. 2013. <http://ediblegreenmountains.com/editorial/winter-2013/mountain-peak-citizen-cider/>.

Photo (1) credit: http://www.theapplebarn.com/graphics/slides/slide-2.jpg

Photo (2) credit: http://ediblegreenmountains.com/editorial/winter-2013/mountain-peak-citizen-cider/

Response:

It’s really interesting to hear that there is little competition for Vermont apple producers which is in stark contrast to the craft beer industry. I like that you discussed the difficulties that Nick faced when deciding to go Organic. It really points to the reality of the craft industry and that isn't always as easy or as pretty a picture as is often painted – rather, it’s extremely hard work, and attempting to do what you want sometimes means risking losing it all. I also think it’s great that you discussed the topic of hard cider which in my personal experience has become increasingly popular.  I actually had my first bottle of Unified Press the other day and I second that recommendation! Overall this post largely contributes to our broader discussion of how the craft industry is always changing and producers are often refreshingly ambitious when it comes to trying new things, even when that means taking huge financial risks or starting completely from scratch.

-Kimberly

[craftingvt]

Tradition is Tasty

Kimberly Roemer

On my way back to Vermont last weekend I took advantage of the opportunity to grab a few pamphlets in an attempt to examine the ways in which factories and farms portray and advertise themselves and their maple syrup products:

Not surprisingly, all of them encouraged consumers to take advantage of most (if not all) of the following :

1) An opportunity to take a tour “behind the scenes” and learn all about their sugaring process and/or family tradition

2) A wide selection of “homemade” or “traditional” Vermont foods and products to choose from

3) FREE maple syrup and food tasting! (and lots of choices)

The purpose of this observation isn’t to state the obvious, but rather to point out what this information can tell us. The fact that these aspects are extremely consistent throughout the ways many of these places advertise and portray themselves is a good indicator that these are the things that interest consumers and contribute to the appeal.

That being said, it isn’t safe to bet on advertising alone. I decided to consult my friend Mackenzie, a UVM student and a Vermonter, who has had lifelong experience as both a maple syrup producer and enthusiast. She enjoys helping out her uncle's sugaring operation as shown in the picture below. Before I interviewed her about her experience as a producer, I asked her about her own experience as a consumer and what maple syrup means to her:

“My family makes pancakes every Sunday, so we need a lot of maple syrup – you can’t have pancakes without maple syrup! Maple syrup and maple sugaring go back hundreds of years – there’s a whole history to it. It’s not just syrup. It’s a Vermont tradition…it’s a Vermont thing. And a family thing, both for people who make it and people who buy it. There’s something really special about it, you know?”

I also asked her what she thinks prompts people to choose one maple syrup grade over another, or one mode of production over another, and if she perceived there to be any sense of “elitism” among different types of producers and consumers:

“There’s a little elitism in maple sugaring, but not as strong as in beer production. I have heard that it’s more valued if the evaporator is wood fired which is what my other uncle has. It’s higher maintenance but it’s more “old-fashioned” which is a big appeal with syrup. Before they had cane sugar in the area people had to use maple sugar. So wood-fired is more traditional and therefore more valued. Some old-timers claim that they can tell the difference in taste, but I don’t know if you really can. It doesn’t taste any different to me! Old-time Vermonters also tend to brag about liking the darker grades, usually so dark that you can’t get it unless you specifically request it or make it yourself. That stuff is too strong for me, though. Most of us prefer Grade A or fancy.”

In my next post I’ll be sharing more information from Mackenzie’s experience on her uncle's farm and what her experience has revealed to her about the worldview behind the choices that consumers make and how maple syrup production is viewed. 

Sources:

Personal interview with Mackenzie Harrington. 4/3//2013

Photo (1): Personal photo by me

Photo (2): Personal photo by Mackenzie Harrington

Brochures by Dakin Farm, Eaton's Sugarhouse, Goodrich's Maple Farm, Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks, New England Maple Museum, Sugarbush Farm and Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' Association.

Response: 

There is nothing more Vermont than writing about sugaring in the spring, or during sugaring season, we are a state that has far over 4 seasons. I really enjoyed your directness and brevity, with which you executed your post. Your aim was very clear and was successfully supported. Your discussion on how farms chose to advertise themselves, very clearly established a connection between consumer perceived value and producer marketing. I thought that your transition into a first person experience on maple syrup deepened the meaning and evidence in your post. And  could relate to her comments about the preferences of old Vermonters. What I found surprising was that she preferred Fancy or Grade A. Most sugarers that I know love B, because it has just enough flavor but is still delicate. Personally, I use C or below for cooking and love B as a condiment or sweetener. My only critique, could be to maybe expand a little bit more on the different processes of gathering and boiling, and how that might distinguish craft maple. 

-Kaitrin

[craftingvt]

Cheese Traditions and Dreams

Ashley Waldron

In my previous post I gave a brief history of cheese and how it came to Vermont.  For this post, I wanted to take a closer look at some of the creameries currently making cheese in Vermont.  These cheesemakers come in all shapes and sizes, from century old creameries to those not even five years old; from co-ops of a hundred dairies to small family run farms.  They use milk from their own animals or from their neighbors’ cows, goats, or sheep.  Some make cheese based on recipes that have been passed down through their family for years and others are fresh from apprenticeships in Europe.  Vermont’s group of cheesemakers is a varied one and they’re full of interesting stories. 

            According to the Crowley Cheese website, the Crowley family has been making cheese since 1824.  They’re one of the oldest cheesemakers in the country still making cheese.  To this day they continue to use hands-on techniques to produce their unique cheese, which they claim is the first truly American cheese because while the majority of cheesemakers in the 17th century were still making English style cheeses like cheddar, Crowley began making a creamier, milder cheese.  They exemplify the Vermont value of quality over quantity and have resisted the push to incorporate new technology to increase output. And though there may have been pressure to keep up with the big cheesemakers of the Midwest earlier in the 20th century, today people are placing a much higher value on unprocessed, handcrafted, cheeses and shun the cheeses being shipped out of huge factories.  I think Crowley Cheese shines in times like these because they get to play up their long history, showing that they aren’t just making handcrafted cheeses because it’s the cool thing to do, but because that’s just what they do and have been doing and will keep doing. 

            In sharp contrast, Sage Farm is a new dairy not even 5 years old yet, started by sisters with no background in cheesemaking.  They are part of the new wave of cheesemakers that started popping up around Vermont in the 2000s with the self-reliant and determined attitude common among Vermonters.  And while Crowley Cheese is a co-op, sourcing cow’s milk from multiple dairies, Sage Farm puts out a farmstead cheese, using milk from their own herd of goats.  They represent the renaissance of cheesemaking in Vermont.  Their website doesn’t talk about how long they have been making cheese, but how it has been a lifelong dream to live and make cheese on a New England farm.  They talk about the quality of their cheese, the seasonality of it, and its uniqueness, which comes from creative varieties such as spruce and maple.  They have a vision and the drive to make this life work for them.  

            Crowley Cheese and Sage Farm demonstrate the breadth of the spectrum of cheesemakers in Vermont.  Crowley Cheese has a relatively long history in cheesemaking and relies on tradition and the trust in their ability to turn out a high quality product year after year.  Sage Farm is the result of a lifelong dream held by two ambitious sisters.  Crowley makes an “American” cheese from cow’s milk.  Sage Farm makes European style cheeses from goat’s milk.  However, they have in common their commitment to producing a high-quality, handcrafted product, which is particularly appreciated in Vermont. 

Bibliography

"All About Crowley." Crowley Cheese. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Apr. 2013.

      http://www.crowleycheese.com/visit.html.

"Home." Sage Farm Goat Dairy. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Apr. 2013.

     http://www.sagefarmgoatdairy.com/index/Home.html.

"Making Cheese with Mike Rowe." YouTube. YouTube, 11 Aug. 2007. Web. 12 Apr. 2013.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0UfS1bqscM. 

Response:

I think it’s great that you mentioned the ways in which cheese production has changed over time and that perspectives about cheese production and quality have also changed. It illustrates nicely that values around food – especially craft foods – are fluid across time and space and don’t necessarily follow a linear or easily predictable path. It’s also interesting to see that consumers tend to favor producers such as Crowley who resist using new technology and adopt what is perceived to be the “old-fashioned” handcrafted approach. This appears to be true among Vermont maple syrup consumers as well, alluding to a relatively consistent worldview about what quality means for Vermonters.

-Kimberly 

[craftingvt]

A Trip to Shelburne Orchards

Tabor deGroot

As I walked the mile of dirt road separating my old house from Shelburne Orchards, memories of past autumns flooded through me. The orchard had been a mystical place for me as a kid. I had worked there in my middle school years, handing out bags and directing traffic towards the different sections of 69-acre plot of land. This was my first job and I couldn’t have asked for a better first experience. I got to enjoy beautiful days outside and interacting with happy costumers. In addition my boss, in my opinion, was one of the coolest people in the town.

  Upon arriving at the orchard’s office, I was greeted with the same smiling face that I remembered so fondly. Nick Cowles hadn’t changed a bit since I had worked with him. After we had sat down for an hour or so, I found that his incredible enthusiasm for his work and his community is stronger than ever, which has helped him distinguish his establishment amongst the apple orchards in Vermont.

  When Nick gets ready for harvest its like he is getting ready for a performance. “People come here for the food, for the apples but they also come here for the experience”. There is a sense of wellbeing associated with the place, which is brought home at the end of the day, along with a bushel or two of apples.

  For Nick, running Shelburne Orchards is much more than just a business. It is his identity in the community. “I grow something that people come and eat. It is very clear what I am able to do. The older I get the more that is important to me. It’s a very direct link”. There is a very personal connection between the owner and his costumers creating a feeling of familiarity that sets people at ease.

  He told me that on cold days he likes bring out a pot of hot cider, and greet every costumer that comes in, welcoming them to his home. 

  When Nick inherited the orchard in 1977, the family had been selling strictly apples to larger stores at a low price. In the process of trying to reduce his dependency on sprays, he needed to develop alternative products to supplement the lost profit. Using slightly damaged fruit that couldn’t be sold directly to the grocers, Nick started to produce cider, doughnuts and Ginger Jack.

  After failing to garner interest in the chain stores, Nick turned to health food stores and coops to sell his craft products. In this way he could received the desired price for his products and he could also develop personal relationships with other local food enthusiasts.

  Nick admits that his products may be on the more expensive side. “We are in Shelburne and we pay higher taxes than any other orchard in the state. I need to get those higher prices in order to make my business viable”. The sale of craft products are tapping into the upper-middle-class market in Burlington, producing more profit for Nick than the apples themselves. There is a great influx of young families in the area, looking for local and healthy options. Sitting within eight miles of Burlington, Nick is positioned to satisfy this demographic. On the other hand, Nick has made an effort to make his apples available to everyone. Every year on a Saturday late in the season there is a Truck Load Saturday, where anyone can come and pay $50 to fill up their truck bed or $25 to fill up their car with apples (Shelburne). Nobody can buy apples cheaper than that in the state.

  But in the end craft is craft.

  “If you want to romanticize it, its not romantic, its work. Its hard work and nobody is really making money but if they are able to make a living doing it and get by doing it, they make it work. A lot of these farms are depending on the craft industry as part of their business to get the higher price and its tapping the upper-middle-class but its also supporting the cause of the farming.” – Nick Cowles

  Stay tuned for more on my interview with Nick Cowles and Vermont apple craft.

Meet the man yourself!

  Sources:

  Personal contact with Nick Cowles. 3/31/2013

"2012 Events." Shelburne Orchards. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 Apr. 2013.

            <http://www.shelburneorchards.com/events-4/>.

  "Visit a Vermont Orchard!" Vermont Apples. Vermont Tree Fruit Growers

Association, n.d. Web. 14 Apr. 2013. <http://www.vermontapples.org/>.

  Photo Credit: Andy Duback

http://www.7dvt.com/2009finger-every-pie

Response:

I like how personal this post is, I think it offers an interesting perspective.  It demonstrates part of why people choose craft products over mainstream ones to some extent; it's because of the personal relationship with or the closeness to the producer that people value.  And after reading this and seeing Nick Cowles' own description of running an orchard and the work involved, it almost makes me want to go out and buy Shelburne Orchard products as soon as possible.  And I think that's part of the draw of craft products, it's that personal relationship, whether it's real or just the idea of one.  

I also like how you talk about how Shelburne Orchards make their apples available to multiple demographics by having Truckload Saturday.  But then you say "craft is craft" and I guess I'm curious to know a little more about what you mean by that.

Ashley   

[craftingvt]

Vermont: The Land of Hops and Barley

- Kaitrin

On a cold and sunny Wednesday in Waterbury, Vermont I hop in my car and drive the 4.2 miles to my local brewery. As I pull into the Alchemist cannery, a buzzing parking lot full of cars comes into view. However, instead of being greeted by rows of the iconic green plates of the green mountain state, the lot is brimming with cars from Massachusetts, New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut.

I walk up the ramp towards the brewery and encounter two men talking excitedly. I unceremoniously eavesdrop as I pass them, only to hear one exclaim that he can’t believe they had made it to the Alchemist after enduring a twenty hour drive from St. Louis, Missouri. Why had these men decided to relegate themselves to a metal box for an entire day just for a beer? My palate had the answer. Walking through the door my mouth salivated with the anticipation of the deliciously hoppy brew, Heady Topper, that has become legend amongst beer drinkers nation wide. But Heady Topper is not alone. Vermont is currently home to the world’s number one brewery in the world, as named by Ratebeer.com, “…a worldwide consumer web site dedicated to craft beer and the craft beer culture.”1

The Green Mountain state can also boast the most craft breweries per capita than any other state.

So why has Vermont become a locus of craft beer production? What is craft beer and how has it gained so much attention over the past few years? And what significance and power does craft beer have for the people that produce and consume it? These are some of the questions that this anthropological research based blog seeks to answer. Coupled with the Vermont Folk Life Center we will identify, the parameters of craft beer in the country and in Vermont, as well as the experiences of brewing craft beer and what that means to brewers in the greater lens of the craft revolution and alternative food movement. We will investigate how Vermont has fostered and branded craft, and how these produced images and ideologies are exported and sold.

Works Cited: 

Alstrom, Jason, and Todd Alstrom. "RateBeer: Great Beer Made Easy." RateBeer: Great Beer Made Easy. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Apr. 2013. <http://www.ratebeer.com/>.

Response:

The fact that Vermont boasts the most artisanal cheese producers and the most craft breweries per capita ties in quite nicely with our broader discussion of how craft and artisanal products are valued in Vermont. What’s even more striking to me is that Vermont craft beer is valued among out-of-staters to such an extent that many of them are willing to drive quite a long ways just for beer! I also had no idea that Vermont is home to the number one brewery in the world. From that angle, I guess it doesn’t seem too crazy to take a long trip from out of state. It’ll be fascinating to see what consumers have to say about their preference for Vermont craft beer in particular.

-Kimberly 

[craftingvt]

VT Maple Syrup: Sweet, Savory Myth

Kimberly Roemer

My goals for this portion of this collective research project is to uncover information that will help us answer the following questions: Who is producing maple syrup in Vermont? Who are these producers attempting to target? What is the worldview surrounding the production and consumption of maple syrup in Vermont and what can it tell us about who is being included or excluded in this market and why? A total of three blog entries, including this one, will serve as a presentation of my findings and my reflections in regards to these questions.

I decided to begin my research by examining the ways in which various producers present and market both their products and their histories. I suspected that such presentations might include romanticized histories of Vermont and Maple Sugaring and that such portrayals would allude to the worldview that have the consumers of these products coming back for more. Once we have uncovered exactly what worldview Vermont Maple Syrup producers are marketing, we will have a better idea of who these producers are attempting to target as their main consumers which may shed light on how that worldview influences consumers to make their purchasing decisions.

The following are excerpts from the Vermont Maple Sugar Markers Association website and the New England Maple Museum website. I have made bold the terms and phrases that I find particularly common and/or significant:

Excerpts from the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association website (http://vermontmaple.org/about-us/):

“Maple syrup is Vermont’s signature agricultural product with over one million gallons produced in 2011. It is Vermont’s first agricultural crop of each New Year.”

“Long before the first settlers came to Vermont, Native Peoples were collecting the crystal clear sugar maple tree sap and boiling it down into bricks of sweet maple sugar. Today for us, here in the Green Mountains, maple sugaring is a way of life for maple sugaring families, often passed down through many generations.”

Excerpts from the New England Maple Museum website (http://www.maplemuseum.com/indians-and-early-maple-sugaring-process):

 “Maple sugaring has been an early Spring tradition in Vermont ever since the Eastern Woodland Indians discovered that maple sap cooked over an open fire produces a sweet sugar.”

“An old Iroquois legend describes the accidental discovery of the sugarmaking process…”

“When the first European settlers arrived, the Indians traded maple sugar with them and eventually taught the settlers the secrets of the maple sugaring process.”

“Maple sugar became the colonists own sweetener ending their dependence on foreign sugar. Also, it was never tinctured with the sweat of the southern slave as was cane sugar before the civil war.”

  In these particular descriptions, the history of maple syrup is romanticized in a variety of ways through mythical accounts of the past. First of all, both of these portray sugaring as one of Vermont’s most prized agricultural crops, portray sugaring as an ancient “Indian” or Native practice, and place emphasis on “family tradition”. In addition, adjectives centered around flavor, aroma, and taste are prevalent in both of these descriptions. Indeed, the combination of all of these factors appear to create what may be a compelling romantic appeal for a particular consumer market.

My next blog entry will address the following questions: What happens when we take a look at descriptions and histories presented the websites of producers themselves and individual product labels instead of those presented by the large associations or museums? Will they even present such romanticized histories at all? Or will their marketing focus less on maple syrup folklore and myth and place more of an emphasis on family tradition and quality as a means of attracting consumers to their particular products?

Sources:

"Indians and the Early Maple Sugaring Process." The History of Making Maple Syrup and Candy.  Web. 28 Mar. 2013. <http://www.maplemuseum.com/indians-and-early-maple-sugaring-process>.

"Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association." Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association RSS. Web. 28 Mar. 2013. <http://vermontmaple.org/about-us>.

Response:

I really like how you are looking at how language may affect how we as consumers view the product.  I've been looking at the language used to describe cheese too and am planning on discussing it in my next post because language plays a huge role in how we perceive things.  You mention that you want to compare how producers describe maple syrup versus these historical associations, but another thing that might be interesting to look at would be how consumers describe maple syrup.  If most producers highlight family tradition as you suspect, then what makes a consumer choose one syrup over another?  

-Ashley

[craftingvt]

All About Cheese

http://www.vtcheesefest.com/photos.html

Ashley Waldron

            No discussion on craft and artisan food in Vermont would be complete without talking about cheese.  Vermont has the highest number of artisan cheesemakers per capita in the US.  This means that there over 40 cheesemakers across this little state and all of them have a unique outlook on turning milk into cheese, kind of like alchemists of the dairy world.  How has this little state become a center of the American artisanal cheese world?  What is it about Vermont that makes it such an ideal place for artisanal cheese?  I felt I needed to look into the history of cheese a little bit before I could address these questions.

            Once upon a time, in a land far, far away humans began cultivating cereals and domesticating animals, specifically, cows, goats, sheep, pigs.  At first, these animals provided a stable source of meat and skins and fibers for other products.  However, humans being humans, we eventually overused the land, our crops started failing, and we were left needing another source of nutrients.  We, or our Neolithic ancestors, turned to the excess milk being produced by our livestock.  There are a few theories on how we began turning milk into cheese, but the point is, thousands upon thousands of years ago our ancestors were eating cheese.  Cheese is a part of being human. 

            Jumping ahead a few thousand years, our ancestors had moved into Europe and our cheesemaking technology is expanding.  In Europe, different populations had to contend with very different environmental factors and cheesemaking techniques had to be adapted, which is why we now have hard, dry cheeses as well as rinded, creamy cheese, and soft, fresh cheeses.  Different circumstances required cheesemakers in different regions to adopt new techniques in order to make cheeses that would suit their situations. 

            At this point we have developed the ability to make cheese, and set up the diversity of cheese types.  Now, we move to America.  Since the first major group of settlers were English, it isn’t surprising that English cheesmaking techniques were the ones to take off in the America, New England to be precise.  After realizing that the northeast was essentially useless for producing cash crops, England left the region to the Puritans, who brought with them a mentality that emphasized self-sufficiency and the ability to make and sell a hard cheese that came to be known as cheddar. 

            Vermont, spent some time during the 1800s as one of the top cheese producers in the US, before people pushed westward.  However, as cheese turned into a mass-produced factory product throughout much of the US, Vermont staunchly remained committed to quality over quantity.    

            This is probably the briefest cheese history ever, but I think it introduces some points that might help explain what makes artisan cheese so popular.  Firstly, cheese is entwined in human history and whether we realize it or not we hold it near and dear to our hearts.  Secondly, Europe has shown us that cheese has the potential for a huge amount of diversity, which supports the fact that there are over 40 cheesemakers in Vermont alone.  And lastly, Vermont has a special outlook on cheese production, which makes it a welcome place for small scale cheesemakers looking to produce good, wholesome cheese. 

  Bibliography

Kindstedt, Paul. American Farmstead Cheese. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Pub., 2005. Print.

Kindstedt, Paul. Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and Its Place in Western Civilization. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Pub., 2012. Print.

"Vermont Cheese Makers." Vermont Cheese Council. Vermont Cheese Council, n.d. Web. 26 Mar. 2013. http://www.vtcheese.com/cheesemakers.htm

Response: 

I really enjoyed reading this first post. I had no idea that Vermont had the highest artisanal cheese makers per capita out of any state. By introducing the history of cheese you set yourself up nicely for the next post. I like how you introduced cheese as being part of the human experience making your post instantly relatable to any reader, giving yourself a very broad subject to narrow down to more specific artisanal cheeses of Vermont. You mentioned Vermont’s special outlook as staying true to quality over quantity, but expanding on what you already have would be very beneficial next time around. For the next post I would suggest exploring one or two of the 40 cheese makers in depth, and really try to delve into what artisanal cheese means to them and their costumers. Overall well done, and I look forward to reading your next post. 

- Tabor

[craftingvt]

Apples - Shelburne Orchards

Tabor deGroot

An apple orchard is a unique producer of craft foods. The trees produce fresh apples, which are either sold initially to consumers or used as the founding ingredient in craft products such as cider, doughnuts, pies or apple brandy. Buying organic and local has become a strong trend in today’s society, especially in Vermont. As a result, the production and consumption of craft foods have become romanticized. The foods, fresh and “cultural”, produced throughout the beautiful, simple lives of rural Vermonters.

  While many craft foods are glorified, when one rolls along the dirt road, through Shelburne Orchards’ picturesque landscape and meets the man behind the 69-acre orchard, there is little doubt that this is the real deal.

  Nick Cowles hangs on a lanky, six-five frame, and his shoulder length, salt-n-pepper hair doesn’t exactly paint the picture of your average successful business owner. But during the autumn months, Nick’s contagious smile and vibrance emanates throughout the orchard, drawing customers back day after day, year after year.

  Further contributing to the orchards’ success are the quality apple products. There is cider, doughnuts, vinegar, pies and of course lots of apples (over 30 varieties).

  Nick inherited this property from his parents in 1977 and began his enterprise dominantly selling to wholesalers. “It was a dark era” he said in an interview with Mark Pendergrast of Business People. It wasn’t until a fateful encounter with a Colorado orchardist that Nick realized bringing customers straight to the orchard would be more rewarding, economically and spiritually.

  Through the years Nick’s ambition and many projects have expanded Shelburne Orchards’ range of products, events and ultimately costumers. Small food festivals and pie competitions are highlights of the orchards’ calendar, and continue to draw caravans of cars from all over Chittenden County.

  His latest endeavor has been the distilling of his Dead Bird apple brandy. Aged for two years, Nick sold 100 bottles for 100$ a pop last winter. By word of mouth alone, the waitlist was filled six months before the release date.

  The popularity of Shelburne Orchards’ products is greatly enhanced by the image and vibe that Nick Cowles has constructed: fun, beautiful, light-hearted yet rugged.  

  In the coming weeks, I will be taking a trip down to Shelburne Orchards where I won’t find any apples, but I am sure Nick will have a couple stories, ripe and ready to pick.

     Sources

Pasanen, Melissa. "Fans Have a Hard Time Waiting for Shelburne Orchards' Apple Brandy." Burlington Free Press. 17 Nov. 2011. Web. 14 Apr. 2013.     <http://www.burlingtonfreepress.com/article/20111202/LIVING06/111201015/shelburne-orchards-dead-bird-apple-brandy>.

  Pendergrast, Mark. "A Fruitful Labor." Business People-Vermont:  Shelburne Orchards,Nick Cowles. Aug. 2012. Web. 14 Apr. 2013.

<http://www.vermontguides.com/2012/shelburne_orchards0812.html>.

  Photo Credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/67832671@N00/3833737676/">donsutherland1</a> via <a href="http://compfight.com">Compfight</a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/help/general/#147">cc</a>

  Response: 

Great first post. I think you introduced some excellent concepts to take a further look at, such as value products, buying organic and local and what that means. Also the ideas around romanticization and glorifying Vermont products initiates a conversation about the other perspective, that might see Vermont products as elitist and unaccessible. I also enjoyed how you brought Nick to life in your description of him, it really drew the reader into the topic and the person behind the orchard. I would try to be careful about using casual language (ie) 100$ a pop and about making direct claims without any supporting sentences (i.e.) are many craft foods glorified? Other than that I really enjoyed reading your initial thoughts on craft apple products. 

[craftingvt]

Craft and Artisan Products in Vermont: A Passion, History and Ideology

In past centuries folklore solely meant the study of fairytales. Cultural norms and morals could be drawn from these old stories, which helped expose different ideologies among societies. Now, more focus has been shifted towards the traditions of different groups. What people do during an ordinary day, and how they go about those activities are central in understanding the past. Over time, communication among small groups becomes ritualized. From these patterned interactions traditions emerge, forming the foundation of culture. In 1984, The Vermont Folklife Center was founded with the goal of exposing, examining and preserving these traditions. Its focus has been guided through their cooperation with the Arts Council, determining which traditions and art practices are significant and highly valued by the community. The Folklife center has three central components. The first being education, taking the form of visual arts apprenticeships. This place-based education allows for community members to amerce themselves first hand in the activities of Vermonters, giving them a deeper understanding of how Vermont used to be and how it has grown. The second component is research. The oral history of Vermonters brings anecdotal color to the record. While these records may not be fact, they show how people see the world through their own lens; a lens shaped through their own experience and culture. The Folklife Center also has an exhibit and archive open to the public. This archive is self formed through donations and provides anyone willing to walk in with the opportunity to learn about the old ways of Vermont. QUESTIONS One of the main questions we want to address is how the romanticism of rural life has affected the foods produced, sold, consumed in, and exported from Vermont.  In our interview with Andy Kolovos, he talked a lot about the perceptions people have on Vermont, about how it is an idyllic place with rolling green hills, where people cheerily eat blueberry pancakes smothered in maple syrup for breakfast.  In reality, that image has never been a reality and has been popularized by the tourism industry.  However, the image has stuck and Vermont has arisen as a center in the craft food world as a result.  So what do these craft foods offer to Vermont?  Who are they being produced by?  Who are they being produced for? And who is being excluded?  In Vermont, and Burlington in particular, there is a lot of discussion on being self-sustainable and so those independent food producers are glorified, but are their products helping build a self-sustainable community?  Much of the craft food being produced is being sold at high prices or shipped out of state, so what about those living in Vermont who cannot afford these local products? APPROACH To answer these questions we will divide the research up amongst the four of us. Each person has been assigned a specific type of craft product to focus on in their individual research. This will allow us to acquire a variety of information and will assist in answering several types of questions regarding these products and the worldviews surrounding them. Katrin will focus her research on craft beer, Ashley on cheese, Taber on apple products and orchards, and Kimberly on maple syrup. In an approach to uncover more information about these products and the various worldviews surrounding their production and consumption we will utilize a variety of possible research methods such as interviews and conversations with producers, consumers and/or local residents, as well as online resources such as research articles, journals and blogs. We will then report on our individual findings through our blog entries and discuss collectively what the possible implications of our findings are in regards to our primary research questions and objectives around Vermont craft food and worldview.