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Understanding Bloodwork for Dogs and Cats

When you think of preventive medicine for dogs and cats, you probably think of vaccinations or flea and heartworm prevention. But what about routine bloodwork? 

Many veterinarians are now recommending routine blood and urine testing for animals in all age groups. Routine bloodwork should be considered for your dog or cat by the time they are two to three years of age. Senior pets should have their bloodwork checked every six months to a year. 

So what exactly are the benefits to performing this kind of lab work? And what is your vet looking for when your pet’s bloodwork is checked?  

Why is bloodwork important for cats and dogs?

Dogs and cats are very good at hiding their health problems. For the average pet owner, it can be incredibly difficult to know when pets are showing signs of pain and discomfort. Certain disease processes may lurk beneath the surface and cause changes that are not evident on just physical exam findings alone. 

Bloodwork looks at a combination of different values. These values can be interpreted with or without other values to help provide an entire picture of your pet’s overall health and to look for signs of certain diseases. Keep in mind that bloodwork can appear completely normal even in cases with serious illness such as cancer, so normal bloodwork doesn’t necessarily rule out everything. 

Early detection of disease 

The main goal for performing preventive bloodwork is to detect diseases before their clinical signs become apparent. Early detection provides for early intervention which can be critical in certain situations! Routine bloodwork can also provide a baseline for your pet so that your vet knows what is normal. Subsequent bloodwork can be performed to monitor trends in numbers. 

Understand symptoms  

When pets are sick, veterinarians will almost always recommend bloodwork to help figure out what is causing their patient’s symptoms. 

Monitoring of hospitalized patients 

Smaller blood panels are recommended at times when patients are hospitalized and need to have electrolytes or other values monitored. 

What does your vet use routine bloodwork to look for?

Your vet may prescribe bloodwork for your pet for a number of different reasons, this will impact the exact tests that will be done. 

Heartworm 

Heartworm testing is one of the most routine blood tests that can be performed in-house for many clinics. With just a few drops of blood, your vet can determine if your dog has heartworm disease. This is especially important in the Southern states where heartworm disease numbers are very high. Shelters also routinely test for this before dogs are adopted out.

Complete blood cell count 

There are many different blood tests and panels that constitute bloodwork. Routine bloodwork for healthy patients and most sick ones involves a complete blood cell count (CBC) and a blood chemistry or metabolic panel.

The CBC evaluates levels such as white blood cell count, red blood cell count, and platelet count. It also looks for anemia or hemoconcentration and can help measure overall cell size (microcytosis versus macrocytosis). Because of circumstances that affect cell size variation, it is important to check a drop of blood on a microscope slide to visualize cell shapes and any morphologic changes.

Blood chemistry panels will evaluate enzymes that are associated with the kidneys, liver, and intestines. This means that they can easily identify if there is a problem with these organs. Liver disease or having a liver that isn’t working as well, can lead to complications wtih anesthesia and should be checked before any procedure if it hasn’t been done within the last 6 months. Check out our articles on liver disease in dogs or liver disease in cats for more information on the topic or our article on anesthetic risk for specifics on bloodwork related to anesthesia.

Several protein types are also assessed such as albumin and globulin. These can be a way to way signal there are issues with the liver if there are not enough, be a signal of dehydration if the levels are too high or a number of other ailments that dependant on other tests to assess.  Some electrolytes like sodium and potassium are also commonly included. These electrolytes are critical to keep balanced and can be a sign of malnutrition or another disease. Chemistry panels also typically include blood sugar or glucose levels which can help determine if a pet has diabetes mellitus. For more information about diabetes and the specifics, we recommend checking out our article on diabetes in dogs or diabetes in cats. Not all panels check thyroid levels, but this can be included in blood panels from certain companies.  Thyroid levels are an important indicator of hyperthyroidism, which is common in cats, or hypothyroidism, which is common in dogs.

CBC and chemistries contain a lot of information. Sometimes, a solitary abnormality can occur but there may not be a reason to panic right away! 

The level of fat in the blood 

In cases with “fatty” or lipemic blood samples, your pet will need to be fasted prior to the next sample collection. 

Are the bloodwork results always accurate? 

False results can occur when blood cells break apart in the process of collection or centrifugation. 

Your vet might recommend collecting a new sample or may recommend to have the blood rechecked in two or three weeks. 

What are some non-routine blood tests?  

Abbreviated panels for pets that need monitoring 

Abbreviated panels are available from specific laboratory companies. These panels are shorter versions of full chemistries and are useful for situations where specific values need to be rechecked. For example, a cat with a urinary obstruction may have elevated kidney values when he is first hospitalized. A kidney or renal profile can be performed every 24 hours while in hospital to make sure the kidney values improve with treatment. 

Blood gas panels 

Blood gas panels are similar to the abbreviated panels but look for different parameters such as electrolytes, pH, and ionized calcium. Blood can be more acidic or more alkaline in certain disease processes. Total calcium is normally detected in a full chemistry but can be affected by the abnormalities of other parameters, so ionized calcium is a more accurate depiction of your pet’s calcium levels. This is important because very high levels can indicate serious disease.  

Specialized diagnostic tests 

There are many other forms of specialized blood tests available through reference laboratories. Many diagnostic tests may look for one particular disease like Addison’s disease or Cushing’s disease, while others are available in panel form that look for infectious disease agents or malabsorptive disorders of the intestines. 

Tests for breeders 

For breeders, there are tests to help with knowing when to breed and when a pet is pregnant. DNA blood testing is available to help figure out what breeds your pup might be mixed with. In some cases, blood samples can also be used to determine if your pet has specific environmental allergies.

Routine bloodwork is essential to monitoring to health of your cat or dog  

In the veterinary world, our patients speak to us in ways that don’t involve speech. Your dog or cat may show signs of illness or none at all, and bloodwork is one of the ways that veterinarians can figure out what is happening beneath the surface. An earlier intervention could prevent catastrophic events! 

Routine bloodwork is a great way to establish a baseline of information when your pet is healthy, and there’s nothing better than a clean bill of health!

The post Understanding Bloodwork for Dogs and Cats appeared first on VetBabble.

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How to Crate Train a Puppy

Where do you go to feel safe?

When you’ve had a bad day at work, where is it you go to relax and recover? Perhaps it’s stretched out on the sofa or hiding under a duvet, but we all have a place we go when things get on top of us.

Actually, this is the idea behind crate training a puppy. A crate is the puppy’s den, a safe nest. Whilst superficially the bars may look like a cage, your pup doesn’t see things that way. What he sees is a warm, cozy cave where he feels able to sleep in safety. From the pet parent’s perspective, a crate offers a means of keeping a pup safe from household hazards and it’s an aid to potty training. So what’s not to like? OK, when crates are abused by using it to punish the dog or leaving the dog inside for way too long, then it is undoubtedly a bad thing. However, when you know how to crate train a puppy in the right way, everyone is happy.

Plan Ahead for the Pooch

Before bringing pup home from the shelter or breeder, make some preparations. First, choose the right sized crate for the pup. Just like Goldilocks and the Three Bears, the crate should not be too big or too small, but just right (which can also mean buying a second, bigger crate for the adult dog). Ideally the puppy should have room for a super-comfy bed and a water bowl, whilst being able to stand up without banging his head, turn around, and lie down with his legs stretched out.

Secondly, get hold of a blanket that smells of the mother dog, and place it ready and waiting inside the crate. The familiar smell will be a huge source of comfort when the newbie arrives in his new fur-ever home.

Location! Location! Location!

Where you put the crate is also important. Remember, your pup wants to feel connected to the family (rather than isolated) but in a place where it’s quiet enough to rest undisturbed. A great spot is the corner of a lounge room, where he can see the family watching TV but has his own space.

For this reason, whilst a laundry room is OK, it’s not an ideal location. Your pup may feel isolated and cut off from the rest of the house, which may cause him to bark. Also, a washer may suddenly go into spin cycle, which is alarming and may frighten the youngster.

Puppy Crate Training Do’s and Don’ts

OK, here are a few basic ground rules about crate training.

DO: Encourage the pup to explore the crate. This means hiding tasty treats and special toys inside for him to discover.

DON’T: Force the puppy inside

DO: Praise him when he sits inside without crying

DON’T: Let him out when he’s crying, as this rewards the noise and makes him more likely to cry in future

DO: Take things slowly and very slowly extend the amount of time pup is left inside the crate

DON’T: Use the crate as a place of punishment or leave him in for hours on end

Getting Started with Puppy Crate Training

You bring a new puppy home.

TOP TIP: The first thing to do is take him to the toilet spot, so he knows where he’s supposed to relieve himself. Now take him into the house.

You’ve already placed a few tasty treats inside the crate, so show him where it is. When he’s not looking, hide more treats in the crate. The idea is to have him link the crate to discovering tasty snacks. That way every now and again he’ll break off from play, to run over and see if any more treats have appeared as if by magic.

Also try putting a favorite toy in the crate. Then sit with him and play with the toy whilst he’s inside the crate (with the door open.) Change the toys around so there’s always something new to discover.

Anytime he happens to pop into the crate, be sure to praise him and tell him he’s a clever boy. He’ll lap up the praise and consider popping in just to get attention –  exactly what you want.

Try feeding him in the crate. And this is where things pick up pace, because whilst he’s distracted by eating, briefly shut the door. Leave it closed a few seconds and then open it immediately. Gradually extend the amount of time you leave the door shut.

Initially, he will be distracted by eating and not even notice the closed door. If he looks up and is quiet, then praise him. If he whimpers, ignore him. As soon as the whimpers stop, praise him and open the door. He is learning that good, quiet behavior is rewarded whilst crying gets him nothing.

As he becomes more relaxed and accepting of the closed door, move a little away from the crate. In the same way, praise his good behavior, and let him out once he’s calm. As training progresses, start to leave the room…but only return when he’s quiet.

A Word about How Long to Leave Puppy in the Crate

During training, keep his crate confinement short and sweet at a few minutes, gradually building up the time.

Once he’s happy to settle down and sleep, be careful not to overstep the mark by leaving him in the crate too long. As a rule of thumb, a puppy can only hold his toilet for the number of hours that he is old in months – plus one. Confused? OK, a two-month old pup can hold on for a max of three hours, whilst a four month pup can hold a max of five hours.

But…and it’s a big but…puppies need plenty of love, attention, and stimulation. Avoid leaving even older pups unattended in a crate for more than four hours at a time. It just isn’t fair to your best buddy, who may start to resent the crate rather than love it.

Crate training done right is makes for a happy, safe puppy. So keep those tails wagging by making his crate an interesting and comfortable place to be.

The post How to Crate Train a Puppy appeared first on VetBabble.

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How Do I Stop My Dog Farting All The Time?

One of the many benefits of owning a dog, is that you always have someone to blame those unusual smells on. However, some dogs do appear to be particularly gassy. Read on for some hints on how to reduce flatulence in dogs.

Flatulence in dogs could happen for a number of reasons. Swallowed air if not burped up, has to come out somewhere. They can also produce excessive gas due to diet. There are certain foods that should be avoided and a number of options to try before you need to start wearing a gas mask in your own home.

And don’t worry, it is normal to fart, so you will still get the occasional parp. Of course it goes without saying that none of those farts are coming from the lady of the house. Ladies never fart, that one was definitely from the dog.

Why Does My Dog Fart?

If your dog swallows lots of air while eating, that air has to come out somewhere, either through eructation (burping) or out the southern end. In most cases these farts are odourless. Gases produced by intestinal bacteria are more smelly, but only 1% of intestinal bacteria produces smelly sulphur or methane.

Dogs are not built to directly digest plant fibres, but the bacteria in their intestines breaks this down and gas is a by-product. The bacteria are essential to good gastrointestinal health and allow dogs to utilise nutrients they wouldn’t otherwise be able to access.

If your dog produces lots of farts, take him to his Veterinarian for a check up as there could be something more concerning such as pancreatitis, liver disease, food allergy or a food intolerance that is behind all that wind. I would particularly worry if your dog also gets occasional diarrhea, sometimes refuses to eat or has intermittent vomiting.

Every dog is different and although we can recommend some basic principles here, there is no substitute for tailored Veterinary advice. Be aware that when you go to your Vet they will ask you lots of questions about poo, and don’t worry if we like you to bring in samples for us. We prefer chocolate of course, but we are happy to see what is coming out of your dog rather than just talk about it.

Parasites

It is important to not overlook the importance of regular intestinal worming. Your dog should get a broad spectrum intestinal dewormer every 3 months. If you use a combined product such as Revolution, Advocate or Panoramis, ensure you are also using a separate tapewormer every 3 months.

The active ingredient Praziquantel treats tapeworm, so if your product doesn’t contain it, it must be administered separately. Parasites can be a cause of intestinal problems and cause secondary flatulence.

Swallowed Air

If you have a snub-nosed dog (known as a brachycephalic breed), such as a boxer, staffy or bulldog you may have noticed excessive panting and snoring. They are usually mouth-breathers, and as a result can swallow excessive amounts of air. In some dogs breathing difficulties are severe enough to also result in collapse when exercising.

The problem is worsened if your dog is overweight, so keeping your dog trim can result in marked improvement. A simple surgery, performed regularly in brachycephalic breeds can significantly improve quality of life and breathing.

Eating Too Quickly

If your dog eats like it is going to be taken away from him, he can also ingest air. Feed dogs separately if there are dogs in competition, and split the food into smaller meals. Place an upturned bowl inside a larger bowl, so your dog needs to eat around the bowl and takes smaller mouthfuls.

Alternatively, you could look at a bowls that has projections inside the bowl to slow your dog down. A similar idea if your dog eats dry food, is to place the food in a treat ball.

Diet

What your dog eats can result in excessive wind and sometimes mild stomach upsets. If your dog frequently gets lots of variety, leftovers, and table scraps try keeping the diet plain for a few weeks to see if this improves things. Does your dog eat a poor quality diet? A diet high in soy, starches, corn and carbohydrates can favour gas production. Switch to a premium quality dog food with meat as the first ingredient not cereals. As a pleasant side-effect, because these diets are more readily digestible you will also have less waste out the other end.

You can also try switching to a low residue, easily digestible diet (the equivalent to just boiled chicken and white rice) and feed small meals frequently. Some dogs that have developed a mild food intolerance can often go back to a normal diet after 6 months or so, but just need some time off for gut rest. Before you do any diet changes, particularly if you are looking for a long-term solution and are home-cooking, consult with your veterinarian to ensure you are using a balanced diet.

All diet changes should be made gradually over at least 1 week, unless your Veterinarian advises otherwise. Some other ingredients that are known fart-makers are cauliflower, broccoli, peas, beans, cabbage and bread. In particular, any type of bean or legume really will make you pass gas. Lactose from cheese, milk and yoghurt can also cause excessive flatulence. Also avoid Carrageenan, which is a thickener and stabiliser found in many pet foods.

Probiotics

Just as we can get an imbalance of bacterial flora in our intestines, dogs can too. Probiotics can help correct bacterial balance in the dog, while prebiotics that support the growth of the correct bacteria might also be effective. These are contained in some prescription diet foods in the form of beet pulp.

Activated Charcoal and Enzymes

Theoretically adding digestive enzymes to your dog’s food can help with the breakdown of carbohydrates, resulting in less gas production in the colon. Consult with your veterinarian about these, as there are some very inexpensive types formulated for dogs that are effective and easy to administer.

Another option is activated charcoal, which can be fed as tablets or made into a slurry. You don’t want to add activated charcoal permanently, as it can interrupt the absorption of other nutrients, but up to 3 days is fine. Your veterinarian can recommend an effective dose.

Exercise

If all else fails, the best plan is to make sure you walk your dog frequently in the great outdoors. Aim for a short walk after eating and again a few hours later or in the evening. The exercise will help with intestinal motility and release those gas pockets out into the fresh air, rather than in an enclosed space.

Some dogs really will clear the room with their farts and even more amusing, wake themselves up. So long as the flatulence is not excessive or particularly smelly, we might have to move on from the fart jokes and consider it within the realms of normal. If however the farting is really disturbing you and your dog, try some diet changes, exercise and perhaps probiotics, prebiotics and activated charcoal before you banish your dog from the house.

The post How Do I Stop My Dog Farting All The Time? appeared first on VetBabble.

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How do I Take Care of a Gerbil?

Do you have what it takes to adopt a pet gerbil?

If you’re looking for a small, caged pet that has the same sleeping schedule as you, then gerbils are the ideal pet for you! Intelligent, sociable, and with an inbuilt love of tunneling, gerbils are jolly little rodents that give you plenty to smile about.

Below, we are going to discuss in our gerbil care guide what having a pet gerbil really entails.

Gerbil Biology Basics

Before we talk about having a pet gerbil, let’s get up close and personal by looking at gerbil biology. Gerbils have a lifespan of 3 – 4 years (sometimes longer), which compares favorably with 2 – 2 ½ years for a hamster. Indeed, gerbils are almost the inverse of hamsters, because they love to live in groups (rather than single) and most active during the day (rather than night.)

Gerbils hate being alone and love company, and do best when kept in same-sex groups. However, be warned! Mixing gerbil genders leads to a population explosion since gerbils start to breed from around three months of age and produce a new litter of 4 – 10 babies every 24 days. Oops!

Another nice-to-know fact is that gerbils are clean animals. This is on account of their desert heritage, which gifted them with kidneys that are very efficient at conserving water. Although they should always have access to fresh drinking water, they may not drink much and produce dry waste as a result – which is good news when it comes to cleaning out.

Pet Gerbil Facts

Gerbils are great tunnellers, and love nothing better than a good dig

Male gerbils make excellent fathers, and play a role in raising their young

Unlike hamsters, gerbils don’t have cheek pouches

Gerbils are the kangaroo of the rodent world, with back legs that a way longer than their front ones

Wild gerbils hoard food in stores weighing up to 1.5kg

The Gerbilarium: Home Sweet Home

The tank gerbils are kept in is called a gerbilarium, but despite the fancy name, it’s basically a large tank or aquarium with a cage on top. However, make sure it has a secure wire lid as gerbils are great jumpers (those long back legs!) and will escape. Indeed, make sure they have plenty of room to play and dig. A standard gerbil care recommendation size of gerbilarium for a pair of gerbils is 40 – 75cm by a height of 30 cm.

Wire cages are less suitable than glass, mainly because there’s nothing to stop a snowdrift of bedding being kicked out when your gerbil starts digging. However, the drawback with a glass tank is the lack of ventilation, which is where that wire lid comes in. But also be ultra-careful to keep the tank out of direct sunlight as the temperature inside soon soars to dangerous levels.

Bedding and Tunneling

Good gerbil care calls for good bedding. In the wild, gerbils escape the desert and scrubland heat by burrowing. They are veritable moles when it comes to underground excavations, digging long tunnels around 3 meters long, complete with lots of side chambers, entrances and exits.

It’s difficult to mimic this in a gerbilarium, but a good deep layer of bedding goes some way. Think along the lines of organic soil or peat, or a deep layer of Timothy hay. Also provide a nesting area, with super-cozy shredded paper inside. It’s best to avoid fluffy materials since also this look and feel great, they can get tangled around limbs and cause serious harm.

As for a nest box, be aware gerbils love to chew! This means a plastic or wood box will be destroyed in short order. However, a great alternative is a small clay flower pot, which is indestructible and secure.

Along with other desert-dwelling species, gerbils are used to keeping themselves clean with dust baths. Offer a wide flat container filled with chinchilla sand (widely available from pet stores) so your pet gerbil can roll around and keep their coat clean and conditioned.

Food and Feeding

Going back to their roots, wild gerbils dine on a diet of grasses, seeds, bulbs, leaves, and herbage. To mimic this, and to provide the best gerbil care, most owners feed part of the diet as a commercial pelleted mix, with a part as fresh fruit and veggies.

Variety is great but some foods are off the menu as they make gerbils unwell. Those foods NOT to feed include potatoes, tomato leaves, rhubarb, and grapes or raisins.

However, gerbils can cheerfully chomp on a selection of apples, broccoli, cucumber, carrots, cauliflower, fennel, melon, oranges, and pumpkin. Nom nom.

Heavy ceramic feeding bowls work best, as they are more difficult to tip over. That said, sometimes feeding time can get quite competitive, so to avoid fights it’s as well to scatter food over the bedding and allow the gerbils to forage. And oh yes, don’t worry if they bury their food…this is normal behavior. However, you may need to get rid of moldy foods for them…

Gerbil Healthcare

When provided with the right conditions, gerbils are generally healthy creatures. Their biggest weakness is their teeth, which grow all the time. To keep them the correct length provide wooden chew toys or orchard wood (from pesticide-free trees) so they can gnaw those incisors down.

And finally, as with any pet, check on them several times a day. Get used to what is normal for your pet gerbil, and if they seem more withdrawn, stop eating, or otherwise seem unwell then get them checked by a vet as this is proper gerbil care protocol.

The post How do I Take Care of a Gerbil? appeared first on VetBabble.

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How Can I Help my Aggressive Dog?

Do you have a dog that seems to be aggressive for no reason? Are you at your wit’s end trying to figure out what to do? You’re not alone. Many owners find themselves struggling with an aggressive dog. But don’t worry, there are plenty of things you can do to help your pup. In this post, we’ll discuss the different types of aggression and what you can do to address them. So, whether your dog is growling, biting or just being generally disobedient, keep reading for some helpful tips.

Aggression is one of the worst behaviors that a dog can experience. Not only does it indicate that a dog is stressed or anxious in some way, it also puts a tremendous strain on his interactions with family, friends, and in some cases, veterinary staff. Aggression is a common behavioral issue in dogs and can become quite serious, very quickly. 

Dog owners with aggressive dogs often ask why their dog is being aggressive all of a sudden and how their beloved dog’s aggression can be stopped? An aggressive dog can be cured but it will take work from both the dog and the owner, and in some cases professional help. 

In this article we outline exactly what aggression is when it comes to dogs, we also summarise the different types of aggression and we provide some vet-approved tips for helping to manage aggression in your dog. Let’s go! 

What is aggression in dogs all about? 

Aggression is a type of behavior that is exhibited by dogs for multiple different reasons. For example, dogs who feel threatened or feel the need to protect themselves or their family may show signs of aggression. 

Signs of aggression can appear subtle or mild but can quickly intensify, so it is important to pay attention when these milder signs appear. 

What does an aggressive dog look like? 

Some of the signs that indicate anxiety or nervousness can also be precursors to aggression. Dogs can become very stiff or still and keep their ears back and down. 

As this progresses, aggressive dogs may show their teeth and growl or bark in a threatening manner. 

Some will lunge at the person or try to bite. Even the kind of gentle nip that doesn’t leave a mark is considered a sign of aggression.  

Types of canine aggression

Possessive aggression

Possessive aggression can affect both puppies and adult dogs. It occurs when a dog covets something like their food bowl or a toy or a bed. Dogs will display signs of aggression as a person or another animal gets closer to the coveted item. 

Source: Giphy 

Territorial and protective aggression

These types of aggression are related to the pack mentality that dogs have, and they stem from their wolf and coyote relatives. Like their canine cousins, a dog may try to attack a stranger to the home in an effort to protect home and family. If there are vulnerable pack members, like when a mother dog has new puppies, a dog may display aggression where they have not previously done so.  

Predatory aggression 

Predatory behaviors like stalking and chasing are common in dogs, especially young ones, and it is similar to the behaviors of their wolfy relatives. While chasing toys or fast-moving things might be fun and harmless, dogs with predatory aggression might chase and kill small prey. It occurs very quickly and often without warning, but it’s very rarely directed at other dogs and people.

Pain

Even the nicest of pups can display aggression when they experience pain! Dogs who have major injuries like fractured bones or other orthopedic issues may display aggression when the painful area is touched or manipulated. When transporting an injured dog, it is important to keep this in mind.  

Redirected aggression

Redirected aggression is when a dog becomes triggered by something and then redirects their aggression towards someone else. This usually occurs when a person tries to break up a fight between dogs – the person ends up getting bitten in the process. Another example is when a dog sees another dog or person outside the window but cannot act upon his impulse so he might take it out on someone else in the home.  

Social aggression

Many dogs with social aggression see the household as a hierarchy with certain family members or other dogs in a lesser position, and the aggressive dog may think of himself as most important. As such, he is the first to be fed, the first to get treats, the first to go outside, and so on. He may also get the best places to sleep like in a dog bed or on the couch. If another dog or person oversteps these boundaries, the dog with social aggression will act on it. 

Sex-related aggression

While it is possible for spayed and neutered dogs to experience sex-related aggression, it is more common in intact dogs. Male dogs might become aggressive towards one another when there is a female dog in heat, or two intact female dogs might fight if there is an intact male nearby.  

Fear aggression

Like humans, dogs have a similar “fight or flight” response to stressful or scary situations. If a dog cannot run from the situation, they will feel like they need to fight. Dogs with fear aggression may cower and growl but often do not strike first. If they do, it is usually as the person or other animal turns away. 

Source: Giphy

Defensive aggression

Defensive aggression is similar to fear aggression, but instead of staying in a fearful or cowering posture, the defensive dog might strike first. They are less likely to bite or lunge as the threat moves away. 

Tips on managing aggression in dogs 

Calming products such as DAP 

Calming products can help dogs with fear and anxiety. DAP products contain dog-appeasing pheromones similar to the ones produced by a nursing mother dog, so they have a naturally calming effect. DAP and similar calming products are available in sprays, plug-in diffusers, wipes, and collars. Supplements such as Composure Pro and Zylkene rely on ingredients like tryptophan and alpha-casozepine, respectively, that have naturally calming effects without inducing drowsiness.  There are some great products on Chewy that you can check out here.

Training and behavior modification 

Training and behavior modification are extremely important when it comes to addressing aggressive behavior. Desensitization is a training technique that involves gradual or low levels of exposure to a stressor to the point that the cat does not respond negatively. For example, playing thunder sounds at low volumes for dogs with storm phobias and then gradually increasing the volume will help the dog react less intensely. 

Counter conditioning is another training technique that is meant to change the dog’s feelings about the stimulus. If a dog becomes stressed with visitors to the home, associating something positive with visitors like a favorite treat or toy will change the dog’s perception of visitors. 

Don’t forget to consult your vet about your dog’s aggression 

Training can help with many problems. However, remember to keep in mind that dog owners can easily make mistakes when it comes to training. It’s important to contact your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist if training isn’t working for your aggressive dog. Even though the aggression may seem slight to begin with, it doesn’t take much for it to cross into dangerous territory for your family and for your best friend. 

If your dog’s aggression and anxiety are so severe that they cannot learn or be trained, anxiety medication may be necessary to help relax them. Keep in mind that spaying and neutering may help, especially if the dog’s aggression is sex-related. A quick and easy procedure performed by your local vet!

The post How Can I Help my Aggressive Dog? appeared first on VetBabble.

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Why is my Cat Aggressive and What Should I do?

Cats are often considered to be one of the friendliest animals around. They’re sweet, loving, and make great companions. But did you know that cats can also be quite aggressive? In fact, cat aggression is actually quite common. So why do cats become aggressive, and what can you do about it? Let’s take a look.

Cats can become aggressive for any number of reasons, and even if the aggressive display only happens occasionally or suddenly, it can seriously impact the relationship that owners have with their cats. Have you ever had your cat attack you out of nowhere?! It happens to the best of us. 

In this article we look at the types of aggression that you can find in cats and also provide cat owners with a few tips that will help them manage their feline’s aggression. Unfortunately it’s not a one size fits all solution, as most of you may know, all cats have unique personalities and solving their aggression problem may be a slightly different scenario depending on the cat involved. 

What is aggression in cats all about?

Aggression is a type of behavior exhibited by cats that is meant to warn or threaten other animals or people. In short, aggression is one of the ways that cats communicate with others. 

Your cat’s aggression may be in defense of territory or offspring, in an attack stance, or the aggression can be fear-based. In some cases, it can take hours or even days before a cat relaxes again after a bout of aggression. Felines are very sensitive creatures! 

What does an aggressive cat look like? 

When a cat is exhibiting aggressive behavior, he may growl, yowl, or hiss at the subject. The hair on his neck may stand on end and his tail may appear puffy. 

Most aggressive cats keep their tail on the ground, and while fearful cats tuck their tails under them, others might swish their tails back and forth in a quick manner. 

Ears may rotate backward slightly or may be pulled back and down against the head. 

A cat’s body may be turned sideways so that they appear physically bigger, and aggressive cats in attack mode will try to swat and scratch with their front paws. They may also try to bite the subject. 

Types of feline aggression

Fear-based aggression

Cats who cannot escape from something that is scary or frightening may develop fear-based aggression. The signs may start out very mild such as flattened ears, tucked tail, and crouched posture. More intense stimuli may increase the severity of signs, and so these cats may start to hiss or spit and swat or scratch with their front paws.

Some cats may be genetically predisposed to fear-based aggression. Other cats learn from previous experiences or may be influenced by factors in their environment. To help with fear-based aggression, you can choose to eliminate the stressor altogether. However, if this is not possible, training can help change this behavior. 

Source: Giphy 

Redirected aggression 

Redirected aggression occurs when a cat is agitated by someone or something that he cannot reach so he directs the aggressive behavior towards a person or an animal that is nearby. The redirect could occur right away or some hours later.

An example of redirected aggression is when a cat sees another cat or a different animal outside of the window. He may feel threatened but cannot interact with that animal because of the window, and so he channels this aggression into the attacking of another pet or person in the household. 

Source: Giphy 

Intercat aggression

When cats develop aggressive behaviors towards another cat in the household, this is known as intercat aggression. Sometimes, signs of intercat aggression can be very subtle. The aggressor cat might stare down the victim cat until one or the other eventually walks away. In more serious cases, aggressor cats might also attack the victim cat. 

An aggressor cat might not have a specific reason for bullying the victim cat, although sometimes the aggression occurs due to lack of socialization or because of something unpleasant that happened to the aggressor cat when the victim cat was present. It can happen between cats of different sizes, sexes, and personalities. 

Source: Giphy 

Play and predatory aggression

Play aggression is usually seen in cats younger than two years of age. It involves some of the mannerisms that are considered predatory such as stalking, pouncing, fighting, attacking, swatting, and biting. This behavior can be directed at other animals but is mostly directed at people. It is especially likely if the cat was weaned too early or orphaned as a kitten. 

Encouraging this kind of rough play can contribute to continued behavior that often intensifies. If your cat exhibits play or predatory aggression, stop play immediately if it gets too rough, especially when your cat is the one who initiated play. By initiating play yourself and keeping boundaries, you minimize this kind of aggression. If it is difficult to stop play, try making hissing sounds or use a deterrent like a spray bottle. Keep a variety of toys handy for safe play, and keep a journal that notes the times of day where aggression is at its most intense.

Source: Giphy 

Territorial aggression 

Cats can become aggressive when they feel that their home or neighborhood has been invaded. This kind of aggression is mostly targeted at other cats but can be directed at other animals and people in some cases. A cat may start to rub his chin on things or spray urine in inappropriate areas, all efforts to mark the cat’s territory. Territorial aggression typically manifests when a new cat has entered the home, when a kitten already in the home approaches two years of age, or when there are changes in the home or outdoor environments. 

To help avoid this kind of aggression in multi-cat households, make sure to gradually introduce new cats or kittens. It could take days or weeks to adjust. You can also feed the cats separate from one another so that they do not become territorial over feeding dishes. You should also have at least one litter box per cat plus one additional box, e.g. you should have at least three litter boxes if you have two cats.

Source: Giphy 

Petting-induced and pain-induced aggression 

Sometimes, excessive petting can cause aggression in cats. This may be due to pain or sensitivity like in senior cats who have arthritis, or it may be due excitement or arousal. Static electricity may also be a factor. You might observe tail-twitching, quick biting, and then running away. 

Source: Giphy 

How to manage aggression in cats

Calming products such as Feliway 

For cats who are generally anxious, calming products can make a big difference. Feliway is a product that contains pheromones similar to the ones produced by a mother cat, so it has a naturally calming effect. Feliway is available in sprays, plug-in diffusers, wipes, and collars. Supplements such as Composure Pro and Zylkene rely on ingredients like tryptophan and alpha-casozepine, respectively, that have naturally calming effects without inducing drowsiness.  

Training and behavior modification 

Cats can be a little more difficult than dogs when it comes to training and behavior modification, but it is not impossible! Desensitization is a training technique that involves gradual or low levels of exposure to a stressor to the point that the cat does not respond negatively. For example, playing thunder sounds at low volumes for cats with storm phobias and then gradually increasing the volume will help the cat acclimate to the sounds. 

Counter conditioning is another training technique that is meant to change the cat’s feelings about the stimulus. If a cat becomes stressed with visitors to the home, associating something positive with visitors like a favorite treat will change the cat’s perception of visitors. 

Don’t forget to consult your vet about your cat’s aggression 

Aggression in cats can be frustrating and confusing for owners. In this article, we’ve outlined the different types of aggression and how to manage them. Remember, if your plan isn’t working or your cat is displaying particularly severe behaviors, it’s always best to consult with a veterinarian. If a cat’s aggression and anxiety are so severe that they cannot learn or be trained, anxiety medication may be necessary to help relax the cat. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more helpful tips on training your cat the right way!

    The post Why is my Cat Aggressive and What Should I do? appeared first on VetBabble.

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Why Does My Dog Eat Poop?

Coprophagia is a condition meaning that your dog eats poop.  At best this is an untasteful behavioral issue and at worst it could mean that there is a medical issue that needs to be addressed.  

This rather undesirable behavior can be normal in puppies. Young dogs often go through a stage of exploration and as part of this put lots of different things in their mouths to chew. Puppies simply love to chew everything! And sometimes this can include things that are even less desirable than your shoes!

Why do dogs eat their own poo?

Coprophagia’s root cause is generally because it tastes good to your dog.  This is sometimes just due to the acquired taste of the pup, or that there is a nutritional deficiency.  The acquired taste falls more into the behavioral category and can be fixed by a few methods we will discuss further on, and the nutritional deficiency could be caused by a number of medical conditions or potentially nutritional deficiencies in their diet.

Should I be concerned?

Coprophagia is fairly common, and it is important to rule out whether it is a behavioral issue for the dog or if there is a medical condition causing this.  It is far much less concerning and fairly common for a puppy to not know better and have coprophagia, and more concerning if it is an older dog that starts eating its own poo later in life when it had not had before.

What should I do if my dog has coprophagia?

The first step to treat coprophagia is to determine if it is behavioral or an underlying medical condition.  This should be done by visiting a veterinarian.

In general, if it is a new puppy or a dog that has always just been obsessed with eating its own poo, it is very likely behavioral and this is something that can be conditioned out of the puppy.

However, there are some hereditary conditions and many puppies are born with parasites.  Every puppy should have a fecal exam and a stool sample should be examined by your veterinarian to ensure there are no parasites present, even if the puppy was dewormed.

What are some of the medical reasons this could happen?

There are many things that can cause this, but in general, if it is a puppy, it is likely behavioral.

As mentioned, there are many medical conditions for a dog that could cause your dog’s coprophagia.  This could include internal parasites, metabolic conditions, or even something more sinister such as a nutrient sucking tumor.  This should be ruled out by a vet and it is recommended that you talk to a vet to help.

Metabolic diseases such as exocrine pancreatic Insufficiency, or diabetes which can give the dog the feeling that they are starving, which they are in a way since their body is not appropriately metabolizing nutrients.  

Nutritional deficiencies are common with dog foods and should be considered when trying to pick the best dog food.  The best dog food is ideally AAFCO tested and has undergone rigorous testing with dogs to ensure that it provides the necessary nutritional requirements for your dog.  If the food is not AAFCO tested, it should at least be AAFCO certified.

What not to do:  Don’t over react!

Many owners react by moving quickly toward the dog and yelling at it to stop.  This is not good and is be confusing for the dog as they see ingesting feces as a reward and any form of punishment (yelling, yanking its leash, or anything else of this nature) can likely cause confusion and sometimes a fearful response.

How to treat the behavior:

As mentioned, there are a number of medical conditions that should first be ruled out, but once this has been done, there are a number of treatment options for the behavior.  They fall into 2 categories:

Pharmacologic and Taste Aversion

Behavioral Strategies

Pharmacologic and Taste Aversion:

There are many products on the market to help with taste aversion and products that can be added to the diet or applied directly to the feces.  However, these strategies are often ineffective as they are inconsistent and cause confusion for the dog. This can actually end up reinforcing the behavior since eating the dog poo is a reward, it ends up creating variable reinforcement which is very difficult to train out of.

Behavioral Strategies:

Positive reinforcement of good behaviors always sticks with your dog better than the punishment of the bad. This has been proven in many dog behavioral studies. Punishment can also confuse dogs into thinking they actually need to ‘hide’ the feces – and you guessed it, the best way to do this is to eat it!

Behavioral strategies to stop your dog are broken into 3 groups:

Avoidance – This is trying to avoid the situation altogether.  This could mean keeping the dog on a leash or indoors while all other dogs in the household are picked up.  Using a muzzle during the initial stages of this can also be helpful as it prevents the act from occurring.

Its always best to clean up feces as soon as possible after the deed to not only avoid coprophagia, but also that smell on your shoe next time you walk inside!

Redirection  – This method is done by using a distraction when you see signs that the dog is sniffing around the ground where another dog had likely eliminated previously.   This could be a toy or treat.

Response Substitution –  This method is the most effective method and involves teaching the dog a new behavior.  For example, sitting or making eye contact. When you acknowledge the alternate behavior and give a high-value reward intermittently, it can solidify and replace the dog’s unwanted behavior.  It is important to make sure the environment is enriched in case the dog is under stimulated. Here you want to pay close attention to oral enrichment devices are around such as food and toys.  

To summarize

While it is likely a behavioral issue, if your dog eating its own poop is a new condition, always consult your veterinarian to make sure there isn’t something else going on.  Hopefully, the above advice can help you, but remember that it is not your dog’s fault as they oftentimes just do not know any better.

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What are the best dog toys for aggressive chewers?

Dogs are some of the best creatures on the planet. They are loyal, friendly, and always happy to see you. However, one downside to owning a dog is that they can be quite destructive. This is especially true if they have a strong chewing instinct. If your dog likes to chew on things, it can be hard to find the right toy for them. That’s why we’ve put together this list of the best dog toys for aggressive chewers. Keep reading to learn more!

Why Does Your Dog Chew on Everything?

Did you know that chewing has a number of benefits for your dog’s health and wellbeing?For dogs chewing is a natural stress-busting activity. Chewing leads to the release of calming hormones, so simply put, chewing makes dogs feel good. Dogs that chew regularly have access to a great, natural way of self-soothing. Chew toys and Kongs are also a useful way to keep dogs busy, divert them into some quiet time or encourage them to stay on their bed or in a crate.

Why Use Kongs?

Kongs are just one of the many available stuffable toys with hollow centers that allow you to make them more interesting by putting food inside. Kongs have been around for a long time, are durable and there are different types depending on whether your dog has a strong jaw (black kongs) or is a less determined chewer.

For your puppy, a Kong is a great way to encourage safe chewing. Getting into the habit of giving a stuffed Kong or chew before you leave for work is a great way to make a positive association with you leaving the house. Dogs that dislike being left alone can be given a Kong as a distraction, so they can be used as a tool for mild separation anxiety.

Toys like Kongs are a great way to express natural behaviors, like chewing, scavenging and working for food. Using food as a game is much more fun than eating out of a bowl. For dogs that are home alone while you are at work or need a distraction while guests are visiting a chew toy is a great tool. To simplify things you can freeze a selection of Kongs, so you have a few ready to go at short notice. We also have more boredom buster ideas.

My Dog Doesn’t Like Chew Toys

While some dogs chew naturally and the struggle is to divert them to more appropriate things to chew on than a pair of shoes, many dogs don’t naturally like to chew. For those that like to chew on everything else but the chew toys you buy, the trick is first to dog-proof the house and remove anything that is tempting. Anything that can’t be removed (like a chair leg for example) can be sprayed with Wound Guard or a bitterant spray to make it less attractive (just test it on a small area first to make sure it doesn’t stain).

If you do catch your dog with anything forbidden, rather than forcibly removing it or punishing the behavior, encourage him to ‘leave it’ or ‘drop it’ in exchange for a higher value treat. This makes it less likely he will run or hide his chewing behavior because he is worried the treasured item will be taken away. The aim is to encourage him to swap what he has for something even higher value as a reward.

Unfortunately, many dogs develop a reluctance to chew due to pain in the mouth, particularly if they are over the age of 2 years. If your dog has some stinky breath, visit your Vet for a dental check that can help you identify if this is why your pet is reluctant to chew.

To encourage a dog to chew on a chew toy or Kong, consider rotating toys to make them more interesting, slather them with pate, cat food or anchoveta, and praise your dog every time he shows an interest in one of those chew toys. Dogs that are less food motivated may need to have their breakfast withheld to encourage them to be hungry enough to chew on something or work for their food!

What Can I Stuff My Kong With?

Kongs and any toy that has a hollow center can be filled with all manner of substances, depending on the needs of your dog.

Mashed sweet potato or pumpkin – this is great for dogs who need to lose weight or have food allergies. Sweet potato is a superfood that is low in calories, yet tastes slightly sweet. It also takes a bit of work to lick out and lasts for a while. If your dog is a little fussier, mix in small pieces of liver treats.

Dry food – most dogs are not that discerning with what they eat, so you can actually just put your dog’s normal dry or canned food in the Kong or in a treat ball. Another option is to soak some biscuits in warm water (or onion free stock) until they soften.

Peanut butter – it can be used to seal the small hole in a chew toy, then more runny substances can be used to fill the Kong such as cottage cheese. Most dogs love peanut butter, so you can line the Kong with it, then add other healthier substances. Just avoid peanut butter that contains xylitol.

Kong ice-blocks – use the peanut butter or a liver treat to seal the bottom of the Kong, then place it in a cup and pour in some salt reduced (and onion-free) stock inside, then freeze it overnight. Voila! A Kong ice-block.

Bread – you can soak bread in stock, gravy or make eggy bread by dipping some bread in egg and frying it (like French toast), then stuff that inside a Kong.

For very fussy dogs who really need to be enticed, try some canned cat food, meat paste, pate or fish paste like anchoveta. Just use a small amount, as these can be fairly fatty. Run it around the inside of the Kong so your dog can lick it out.

Tuna and cottage cheese – who could resist this high protein, healthy combination. Simply mix up equal parts cottage cheese and tuna and stuff the Kong.

You could also use our recipe for turkey, sweet potato, and pea balls.

How to Clean a Chew Toy

The best way to clean a hollow toy is using a baby bottle brush and lots of hot water. You may need to soak it a bit first, but usually, this is the best way to clean your Kong. Some hollow toys can also be placed in the dishwasher.

Additional Fun Chew Toy Tips

For dogs needing to lose weight, or dogs with separation anxiety and those smart, busy dogs that need to be kept occupied during periods of alone time, Kongs and toys can be a great distraction.

A Kong can be given to your dog when guests arrive to encourage him to stay on his bed and remain calm, also great for crate training your dog.

A Kong can be used for dogs who love to chase scents. Ask your dog to lie down on his bed, then hide the Kong under a towel. As your dog improves, you can hide it in more difficult locations. For more advanced training ideas and a video on how to teach ‘seek’, read our article on how to teach your dog some cool tricks.

Hide multiple chew toys, Kongs or treat balls stuffed with your dog’s daily food ration every morning. Much more fun than just eating food out of a bowl and this can keep your dog busy for a fair part of the day.

Bury Kongs or toys in a sandpit or put them in a kids wading pool. Probably best not to stuff them with anything prone to going rancid though!

Set up a simple obstacle course using cardboard boxes to hide your Kong under, ramps and various obstacles. Think agility training for dogs, with prizes at the end.

Rotate your chew toys to keep things fresh and prevent boredom.

If you have multiple dogs, give them a Kong that is their own and make sure it is dramatically different so they can recognize which is theirs. Dogs are red/green color blind, which means they can’t differentiate shades made up of red and green. This means that purple, pink and red all look the same color. Wikipedia has a great example of what it looks like. But bear in mind if your dog isn’t great about sharing, you may need to separate your dogs before giving a high-value chew toy.

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Why Does My Cat Still Have Fleas?

Fleas are a problem in most parts of the world, but especially in warm humid areas, and particularly in high density living. If you’re like most cat owners, you probably think that once your cat is on a good flea control protocol, they should be flea-free. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case. Here we talk about why that happens and what you can do to give everyone some relief.

If we step back and think about them, fleas are fascinating parasites. They are also very successful at what they do, which of course makes them difficult to control. It would be nice to think we could just put a monthly flea product on our pet then forget about it, but environmental treatment is also important. If you are after a more natural approach we will also give a few recommendations of what will and won’t work for your pet.

WHY DO I STILL SEE FLEAS?

Most flea products will kill adult fleas and stop them laying more viable eggs. Only 5% of the flea population actually lives on your pet, so if you are seeing 5 fleas, it means that there is another 95 fleas living in the environment.  You are only seeing the tip of the iceberg. The tiny eggs, larvae or pupae live in the environment, commonly concentrated around resting areas. This means there are usually plenty of new fleas to replace those fleas on your pet that are being killed by your flea product. In addition, many products take hours or days to kill each single flea, so you can still see up to 20 fleas on your pet even though the product is working. Check out this video of the flea life-stages.

HOW DOES THE FLEA LIFE CYCLE WORK?

After a flea jumps onto your cat, the flea starts feeding on blood and laying eggs. A female flea can lay up to 50 eggs a day, so it is no wonder you can go from one flea to hundreds in a very small space of time, and why being late with flea medications can be a big problem.

The eggs fall off your pet and hatch within 1-10 days (quicker if it is warm and humid). The hatched larvae move somewhere dark (usually downwards into gaps between floorboards, in soil, under mulch, deep in carpet or bedding or under furniture), where they feed on organic material (including flea faeces). After 5-11 days the larvae pupate, forming a sticky cocoon around themselves which protects them and makes them difficult to target with vacuuming or a flea bomb. After 7-10 days the fleas will hatch in response to vibrations, carbon dioxide or heat and go searching for a blood meal. If there is no stimulation to hatch, these fully developed fleas can stay in their cocoons for years. Which is why in some cases you can move into a vacant property and have a big flea emergence all at once.

Under most circumstances, biting people is a last resort for fleas; they would much prefer to live on our pets than bite us. In warm humid conditions the flea cycle is very fast, and the whole thing is completed within 2 weeks. It slows down or stops altogether with dry, cold or very hot weather.

DO FLEAS HARM?

Generally most cats can tolerate low numbers of fleas, so seeing a couple of fleas is not necessarily cause for alarm. If you are using a flea product, most likely those fleas are slowly getting poisoned and are on their way out. It is a different story for those cats that are allergic to flea bites. Flea saliva allergies are very common in cats. These unfortunate pets tend to scratch and chew, particularly around the base of the tail and often develop quite nasty hot spots or skin infections.

In flea allergic pets just one flea bite can keep them itching for 2 weeks. A flea can bite up to 400 times before it is killed, so even just one flea can lead to big discomfort. These cats really need strict flea control, both environmental and frequent topical or oral application. In very small kittens, large numbers of fleas can also lead to anaemia from fleas feeding on their blood. Fleas also spread some blood-borne diseases and tapeworm.

TYPES OF FLEA PRODUCTS

Flea shampoos and powders are very ineffective and a waste of time and money. The effects only last for as long as the substance stays in the coat, so one or a few days is all you get. Unfortunately flea control really is one of those things where you get what you pay for. Some topical or oral flea products can be expensive, but if you use them properly and throughout the year, combined with good environmental control, you will avoid the hassle and expense of employing a professional pest exterminator and costly veterinary bills from skin problems.

As mentioned previously, flea products for the most part don’t work instantly. The only repellent-style products available are Pyrethrim-based such shampoos and these are very toxic to cats. For all other products (Frontline Plus, Advantage, Advocate, Comfortis and Revolution) the fleas must either bite your pet to ingest the toxin or absorb the toxin from contact with your pet’s skin, so you can see how a flea allergic pet will often have a problem if there are large numbers of newly emerged fleas in the environment. For these cats, the aim is to reduce environmental flea numbers AND treat your cat.

Products with Nitenpyram (like Capstar) have a faster speed of kill, than most top-spot products so if you are seeing large numbers of adult fleas on your pet, give them a Capstar tablet. It can be used in conjunction with all other flea products, but the effects only last for 24 hours, so it is impractical to use it as your sole form of flea treatment. The newest flea product out is called Comfortis. This monthly flea tablet starts working within hours, so it is the fastest acting monthly flea treatment currently available.  Ask your vet if you would like to try Comfortis.

FREQUENT BATHING

Frontline Plus is stored in the sebaceous (oily) glands in the skin, so frequent bathing or swimming (more than weekly) can strip it from the skin and mean it is less effective. It is very important not to apply it just after a bath, and you cannot bathe your cat for 48 hour after using it. Frontline Plus has the advantage that the toxin used is not absorbed significantly by your cat, so if you are reluctant to use toxins in your pet, perhaps Frontline Plus is a good compromise.

RESISTANCE PROBLEMS

There is no actual reported resistance to flea medications according to the manufacturers of these products. There certainly are products that work better in certain situations though. The manufacturers of Frontline in particular have done extensive research into the topic, including getting samples of fleas from all over the US. They have found no resistance problems, but report that most product failure is usually due to improper application or lack of concurrent environmental control.

HOW TO TREAT THE ENVIRONMENT-INSIDE

First look at where your pet spends most of his time. Target this area in particular. Use a flea bomb inside the house to get rid of those eggs and larvae that will hatch and repopulate your pet. You can also get a hand held spray to treat underneath cupboards, couches and beds. A flea bomb will keep working for 9 months.

If you are not keen to flea bomb, consider frequent vacuuming every 3 days. Also vacuum before the flea bomb and remember that those larvae are motile, so you will need to vacuum under furniture. Pay particular attention to pet sleeping areas. You will not necessarily vacuum up the fleas unless you have an industrial strength vacuum, as the flea cocoons are sticky, but vibrations of the vacuum will stimulate the fleas to emerge from their cocoons, and it is these cocoons that protect the pupae. Vacuuming also gets rid of flea faeces and other organic material from the floor that the larvae feed on.

You can also use a powder called Flea Busters, which is based on boric acid. It can be sprinkled in carpets or swept into the gaps in your floorboards and acts to kill flea eggs and larvae. It will work similar to a flea bomb in helping to control the immature flea life stages.

OUTSIDE TREATMENT

Treatment of the outdoors is more complicated. Ideally all animals should be on flea control and stray cats should be kept away from your yard. Immature flea life stages are susceptible to the effects of drying, extreme heat and cold and direct sunlight. They love a humid, warm and preferably dark environment. Sweep up leaves, keep lawns short, limit the use of mulch, fence off areas of the yard that are warm and dark and protected from the elements (such as under the house or veranda and down the side of the house).

Salt (such as pool salt) can be sprinkled in some outdoor areas to act as a desiccant or drying agent to kill immature fleas. It can be irritating to your cat’s skin and is not great for plants, so you ultimately need to block off the area if you can. You can also use a yard spray to treat the area. Alternatively, there are also specialized pest companies that will treat your yard for fleas. Not all professional pest sprays treat fleas, and always make sure they are cat safe.

PET BEDDING

Make sure any pet beds can be washed in their entirety on a hot cycle in the washing machine (over 60ºC/140F for more than 10 minutes). It is not enough to just wash the cover of the bed as the fleas will burrow down into a mattress or foam. If your cat has access to an old couch outside as a bed consider what could be living in there, and get an easier to clean bed.

If your cat is fond of sleeping in the dirt or mulch or under a shady tree these can be great areas for a flea nest. Perhaps he is trying to keep cool and you could consider a nice cool bed instead. Sweep the dirt as much as possible to get rid of organic material such as mulch and leaves.

NATURAL SOLUTIONS

Sometimes in the hunt for a more ‘natural’ way to protect our pets, all sorts of weird and wonderful recommendations are made on the internet. Just because something is ‘natural’, that does not necessarily means it is safer. Dogs and cats are much different to humans and things that are safe for us (such as grapes, chocolate and paracetamol), can harm our pets. Registered flea products have years of research into safety and have very strict manufacturing controls. While natural remedies are often completely harmless, cats do have a tendency to ingest substances while grooming, so be wary of this when trying something new. In many ways a proven product is much safer than a ‘natural’ remedy posted on the internet with no research and safety data.

The best natural remedy for fleas in the environment is washing bedding on a hot cycle in the washing machine once a week and vacuuming every few days. Then tackle the yard and any other animals nearby, even if that means buying you neighbour some Advantage for her cats! The boric acid powders mentioned above are also great for killing fleas in the environment if you are reluctant to use a flea bomb. Also see the other environmental flea control options above.

NATURAL FLEA PRODUCTS THAT SHOULD BE AVOIDED

Garlic is a common flea remedy and can be very toxic to cats, along with onions. Essential oils and in particular tea tree oil are very toxic if ingested, so are not pet safe. Tea tree is considered safe in animals if used at less than 1% concentration, but this is entirely ineffective for all its purported uses. We don’t tend to drink the contents of that scented oil infuser, but your pets will often groom themselves, so anything you spray on them has to be safe for ingestion. Citronella is particularly offensive to our pets, which is why it is used as a punishment in bark collars (don’t get me started on that one), so it seems particularly cruel to spray it all over them. Similarly lemon sprays are entirely useless as a flea repellent.

Fleas have adapted to be very clever parasites, so it is not just a matter treating your pet once a month. To really tackle those blood-suckers, you need to kill all those latent fleas in the environment to reduce re-infestation. We hope this article helped you find some solutions for your pets. If you have any other specific questions on how to treat your pet for fleas, please post a question in the Love That Pet forum. Sometimes with a little detective work a solution can be found that does not require large volumes of toxic chemicals to keep your pet comfortable this summer.

KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER

Flea medication can seems like it is not working because nothing kills fleas instantly

Treat the environment with flea bombs and regular vacuuming

Wash pet beds weekly on a hot cycle

Keep lawns short and yards swept

If you bathe your pet more than weekly flea products may not work

Treat all pets, even those free-roaming cats if you can!

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Heartworm In Dogs and What You Should Know

Heartworms are foot-long worms that live in the heart, lungs, and major blood vessels of pets. It sounds like something from a horror movie, but worse… it’s a reality. Whilst US dog owners rightly worry about heartworm, this parasite can also infect cats and ferrets, along with wild mammals such as coyotes, wolves, and foxes.

How Do Pets Pick up Heartworm?

The technical name for heartworm is Dirofilaria Immitis. This heartbreaker spreads from pet to pet via infected mosquitos. When the mosquito bites and feeds, it transfers heartworm larvae into the tissue of its dinner.

Once inside the body the larvae migrate through the tissue and after around 70 days use blood vessels as a super highway to make their way to the heart, its preferred home. Once there, the larvae slowly mature and grow into adult worms.

What are the Symptoms of Heartworm Infection

One of the many problems about heartworm is that infected dogs may not show symptoms until the adult worms fill the heart and clog blood vessels. Indeed, it can take as long as six months from the time of infection until the dog becomes unwell. In the mid-term stages, your only clue may be a dog that tires more easily than he should or has a soft cough.

As the worms grow, they take up more space and physically block blood flow. This results in signs such as:

Fainting

Heavy breathing

Coughing, including coughing blood

Nose bleeds

Unthriftiness

Inability to exercise

A swollen belly

Heartworm Infection is Complicated

Heartworm can give the owner a headache for so many different reasons. For a start, that six month gap between infection and clinical signs makes spotting there is a problem very tricky.

With heartworm currently found in every US state, any dog aged seven months or older, is at risk of infection. Your vet may become suspicious of heartworm if the dog is not on a preventative medication and shows signs of anemia, distended jugular veins, or crackles in the lungs. The vet may then suggest imaging such as a chest x-ray or an ultrasound of the heart.

Another important puzzle piece is running blood tests to detect the presence of heartworm. The most widely used test looks for antibodies, which are a sign the immune system is trying to defend itself against heartworm invaders. This is a super-helpful test because it can detect heartworm before it makes the dog ill.

However, if a problem is found heartworm treatment is not without risk. With this in mind, if the dog isn’t showing signs of illness, the vet may suggest a second backup test to be certain treatment is 100% necessary. This second test checks for the presence of the actual larvae, the equivalent of catching the heartworm red-handed in the body, and it means treatment is definitely worthwhile.

  Heartworm Treatment

Heartworm is a frustrating and complicated condition. Indeed, there are a number of facets to treatment which make it quite tricky. These include:

The dog may already be unwell. If the dog is already in heart failure, he must first be stabilized in order to withstand the rigors of treatment

Heartworm carries a nasty bacterial hitch-hiker, which is released as the worms die off. This means antibiotics are needed in addition to killing the worms.

Heartworm larvae go through a phase, lasting around two months, where drugs can’t touch them.

  The vet will put together a battle strategy which balances all the dog’s needs. Typically this means:

Stabilize any heart failure as a result of heartworm damage

Starting a preventative treatment so that any new larvae die young and don’t mature into the next generation

Wait at least two months before moving onto the next stage. This allows any larvae to grow through the stage where they are resistant to drugs, to mature and become vulnerable to treatment.

Antibiotics to protect against bacteria in the bloodstream damaging organs. Often a 4 week course is needed

Start steroids a short time ahead of giving a drug that kills adult worms. Steroids are a strong anti-inflammatory which protects the body against an allergic reaction to the presence of dead and dying worms in the blood

Start a drug that kills the adult worms. This is the final step, and usually not undertaken until several weeks after the initial diagnosis. Treatment is by three injections of a drug called melarsomine (Immiticide), over the period of a month.

Complications of Heartworm Treatment

Like any drug, Immiticide can have side effects, which include soreness at the injection site, nausea, and appetite loss. But the bigger worry is what happens to the dead worms. These dislodge and in a worst case scenario, can block a major blood vessel and kill the patient. And dead worms can also cause a foreign body reaction where the immune system triggers a severe allergic reaction.

All in all, any dog on treatment must rest and take things easy. Now is not the time to play fetch or chase Frisbees as raised blood pressure poses an additional risk. Those dogs that respond well in the long term are those cases picked up on routine screening, rather than when they are already sick. For those dogs diagnosed when they are unwell, the outlook can be gloomy, especially if permanent heart damage has already taken place.

  Heartworm Prevention is Better than Cure

All in all, prevention is better than cure. Happily, there are several excellent preventative medications that are super easy to give. Remember to dose your dog regularly once a month to keep their protection current.

  And if you forget and there’s a gap of longer than two months, then it’s essential to get a screening blood test.  This is because larvae may have already entered the resistant phase of their life cycle won’t be killed by the preventative and will go on to mature into adult worms.

  However, just to complicate things further, the blood tests can throw up false negatives. This is especially likely in a new infection. Thus, if you’ve had a gap in heartworm protection, your vet may suggest restarting preventatives and getting a blood test after six months, by which time the risk of false negatives is low.

  If you worry about giving your dog medication and the effect it has on their body, then don’t. The doses of active ingredient are low and the products have a high safety margin. Thus the benefits far outweigh the risks, and taking preventatives is likely to save your from heartache. Remember, heartworm infection is common and a serious threat to your dog’s health, so take steps to prevent it.

The post Heartworm In Dogs and What You Should Know appeared first on VetBabble.

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Ferret Care Guide

Ferrets are adorable, high-energy pets that do best in small groups. Discover our tips and advice for caring for ferrets as pets.

Ferrets (Mustela putorius furo) are small members of the weasel family that have been domesticated for more than two thousand years. These energetic little bundles of curiosity are a big responsibility, often requiring as much, if not more, care than a cat or dog.

However, if you are truly ready to bring a ferret into your home the rewards will quickly become obvious to you and your family.

HEALTH

Ferrets live for 6 to 13 years and during that time they will require regular vaccinations and veterinary check ups to remain in tip top shape. In particular, Ferrets are at risk of fleas and heartworm, so monthly preventative treatments like Advocate (for kittens) should be used. They are also at risk of canine distemper, and annual vaccination can prevent this.

Annual health checks are recommended for ferrets up to 5 years of age and twice yearly health checks once they enter their senior years to keep them in ship shape. Any concerns you may have should be consulted with a veterinarian at the earliest possible time. Although ferrets are hunters, they still become prey to other animals so they hide their illness very well like other small mammals.

Unless you plan on breeding your ferrets it’s also important that you have them de-sexed prior to reaching sexual maturity (between 6 to 12 months old). Not only does this reduce the smell associated with Ferret reproductive glands but it is also essential to ensure the health of female ferrets who, once in heat, remain so until mated. This can lead to a condition of the uterus, known as Pyometra, which can have serious and even fatal consequences for female ferrets.

TEMPERAMENT

Ferrets are highly intelligent and social pets that do best in small groups. It is highly recommended you consider adopting a pair of ferrets so they will always have a companion to socialize with. Ferrets natural play includes nipping and training is required to ensure your ferret knows that nipping humans is not an acceptable behavior. They are also extremely inquisitive, anything you may have in your home IS of interest, so ferret proofing your home  is  must so they do not get caught in between, underneath or behind things.

Whilst ferrets are relatively robust when playing with each other, as small pets, they are not animals suitable for homes with small children. It’s best to wait until children in the family are at least twelve or thirteen years old. First, ferrets can be easily injured by handlers who lack manual dexterity.Second, children are easily injured and frightened by the nips and bared teeth of ferrets. A frightened child may injure a ferret by dropping or accidentally hitting the pet in retaliation.

ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT

Ferret cages are usually designed with two levels and a place to hang a cozy hammock. The cage should also contain a dark enclosure such as a wooden hut, where the ferrets can make a nest for sleeping. Towels and similar fabrics make good bedding. The bedding will need to be washed frequently, and the cage itself will need regular scrubbing.

Your ferret needs several litter boxes: one for the cage and several for playtime outside the cage. The best litters to use are shredded paper and newspaper-based cat litters.

From time to time, your ferret will need to visit the vet’s office. To transport your ferret safely, you’ll need a pet carrier with gaps small enough that your pet can’t worm his way through them. A leash and H-harness will also be useful.

Heavy ceramic or lock-on bowls are good dishes for ferrets. Expect the playful little pet to up-end the water bowl, however, so supply a sipper bottle as well.

EXERCISE

Ferrets love to play. They will bounce back and forth and sideways with their teeth bared and looking quite ferocious. When they do this, they are inviting you and any other ferrets to play with them. Bounce along with them, and they will be happy. Ferrets may also puff up their tail and make little giggling like sounds (dooking) to show they are having a great time, some even wag their tails! Some ferrets will “speed bump” as they play, this means they suddenly lie very still on the floor. touching them might make them sad because a speed bumping ferret is invisible, but make sure to make a fuss once they get up and play again!

They also like to wrestle and play-fight. They tend to play rough, but they learn to be careful with humans if their human playmates yelp when nipped. A firm “no!” will also get the job done.

FEEDING

Ferrets are weasels and, as such, they are obligate carnivores. This means they need meat in their diet. They also have very high metabolisms, so they need a large amount of animal fat in their diets. For a detailed review of your ferrets dietary needs check out our article Ferret Food: A Recipe for Success.

There are many high-grade ferret foods on the market, however, be sure to read the ingredients to make sure that the food is not fish-based. Its also good to avoid foods which are too high in vegetable and grain matter as this can help predispose your ferret to a cancer known as insulinoma. Several types of ferret food are nothing more than modified mink food. Mink eat fish. Ferrets do not. Some ferrets will starve themselves instead of eating fish-based food.

Ferrets tend to be picky eaters. Buy small quantities of food, so that it doesn’t go stale before its used: no more than a month’s worth at a time. Meat or whole prey can be frozen but it will need to be properly thawed prior to giving it to your ferret. Changing foods or flavours abruptly will make the ferret sick. As a result, it is a good idea to ensure your ferret experiences a mix of foods at an early age so as to accustom them to different diets in the event their preferred food is unavailable for a short period. This also helps ensure your ferret is used to a wide variety of flavors and does not imprint itself to one food only.

Fresh water must be available to your ferret at all times.

GROOMING

Ferrets are naturally clean animals, and tend their own fur carefully. They need a bowl of water in order to wash their faces, and they clean the rest of their coat in the same fashion as a cat. Baths should be kept to a minimum, regular bathing may make your ferret smell good for a night, but its strips the natural oils off their fur and they will then overcompensate for this by producing even more! They will then get A LOT smellier and their skin will dry out.

If your ferret lets one go from the poofy valve while playing, or just rolls around in muck its best to just give them a wipe with a soap free baby wipe or even better, just a warm damp towel. You can also let them swim around in some water.

Try limit proper baths for once every quarter (or less) and use a soft easy going shampoo such as Natural Animal Solutions Shampoo or BioGroom Ferret Shampoo and Conditioner. These are very gentle shampoos and do not strip all those lovely oils from their skin. As all pets and humans, ferrets have sensitive eyes and ears, be sure to stear clear of the face when you do need to bathe them. Ferret ears do get quite waxy, cleaning on a regular basis with a gentle pet friendly ear cleaner with some cotton wool is recommended. Regular nail clipping is also required, a small pair of human nail clippers is the perfect size. If you need assistance just phone the campus and a staff member can help you out.

HOME ENVIRONMENT

Ferret-proofing a house is a bit like preparing your home for a remarkably agile toddler and a litter of hyperactive kittens, while trying to keep out mice and snakes. Ferrets can wiggle through almost any hole or gap that is 3cm across. They’ve been known to get out of houses through dryer vents, screened windows, and the gaps under doors. At the same time, you’ll need to keep rubber items, electrical wires, breakable items, and any dangerous substances out of their reach. When bringing your ferret home for the first time its a great idea to follow their every footstep for the first few days so you can discover where they may have found an escape route.

Being inquisitive little things ferrets can get into A LOT of tight and dangerous positions. If you have a recliner chair make sure you know where all the ferrets are before adjusting the foot rest. Check every individual piece of clothing for a snuggled up ferret before putting it in the washing machine, then make sure the ferret doesn’t hope into the clothes dryer when you go to use that. Check your dishwasher for a naughty ferret before closing it and turning it on. Unfortunately these situations have lead to unfortunate ferret deaths in the past, the saying should really be curiosity killed the ferret NOT THE CAT!

Temperature is another thing to watch. Ferrets do not do well in hot weather. Any time the temperature is likely to get to 27C, check on your ferrets frequently and bring them inside with a fan on their cage if possible. If you can’t bring your ferrets inside to escape the heat give them plenty of ice packs in their cage, an outdoor fan and even some towels soaking in a bowl of water!

TRAINING

Like all weasels, ferrets can be trained to use a litter box, a “piddle pad,” or newspaper as a toilet. Their bathroom needs to be in the same room where they play, though. Unlike a cat or puppy, a ferret can’t “hold it” very long, because his digestive tract is very short. You’ll have the easiest success if the box or paper is placed in the corner of the room, to take advantage of your pet’s natural preferences.

Ferrets are also receptive to other forms of training. From sitting to shaking paws you can discover the basics of training your ferret in our article Ferret Training: Teaching Your Ferret The Basics.

REGULATION & LICENSING

Before you decide whether ferret ownership is right for you, it’s important that you understand that the regulation of ferrets as pets varies between countries, states and territories:

In the US, it’s illegal to own ferrets in the following states or cities:

California

Hawaii

Washington, D.C.

New York City

For more information, visit The American Ferret Association and check to make sure you know the regulations.

In Australia:

It is illegal to keep ferrets as pets in the Northern Territory and Queensland where they are classed as prohibited or restricted species

A license is required to keep ferrets in the ACT

In states where ferrets are legal it is a good idea to check with your local council to ensure you are aware of any restrictions or registration requirements and fees prior to adopting or purchasing a ferret for your family.

Ferrets can be microchipped and we highly recommend this for all ferret owners, that way if your ferret ever does go wandering and someone else find them you can be contacted. Unfortunately ferrets can easily get out of collars and harnesses, and it’s generally unsafe to leave them on 24/7 if you aren’t around for supervision so this is recommended.  You can also get your ferret an ID tag for their harness.

  WHERE TO NEXT?

What’s the next step? Think long and hard before bringing ferrets into your home. They are wonderful pets, but they require a lot of work. If you decide that ferrets are right for you, consider adopting from a rescue or shelter.

Be sure to check out Pet Finder, the largest on-line directory of rescue pets, as there are always plenty of ferrets on the lookout for their fur-ever home.

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Creative Ways to Include your Dog this Christmas

Christmas Food for Dogs

We always think of food first at this time of year! But although it can be tempting to feed your pet some tasty leftovers, many of the foods that are around at Christmas are really rich and fatty, and can make your furry family member pretty sick. Be careful with leaving food lying around… dogs love to steal the unwrapped Camembert from the kitchen bench, that box of chocolates from underneath the tree or the chicken carcass from the bin!

Want to give your dog something special but healthy on Christmas Day while you’re all at the dinner table? How about a Kong filled with steamed sweet potato and turkey… Not only is it a yummy Christmas-themed treat, but the sweet potato helps everything stick to the inside of the Kong, so it last longer. For determined chewers, consider freezing your stuffed Kong.

Doing Christmas crackers this year and want to involve your pooch? Consider getting some doggy Christmas treats that are made from edible rawhide and natural vegetable coloring. So cute!

Santa Photos with your Dog

There are lots of places where you can get a special photo of your dog with Santa. The results are often hilarious, and make for unique Christmas cards!

Just remember that the jolly man can be pretty scary for some pets, so if you think your pets are not the type to enjoy the attention of a bearded stranger, perhaps use Photoshop to whip up those photos instead.

Doggy Christmas Stockings

Don’t want your furry family member to feel like they’re missing out at present time? Why not put together a special Christmas stocking for your pet this year… Decorate it with paw prints and their name, and fill it with some special pet-friendly treats and toys.

Greeting Cards with your Dog

If you’re someone who sends out Christmas cards to your friends and family every year, consider sending one to your pooch! Just like the edible Christmas treats, these adorable greeting cards are a tasty treat and include a cardboard envelope should you want to send by post.

Daytrips and Holidays with Dogs

There are many pet friendly places and many outings your pet can join you on. Remember to never leave them in the car and remember to check if the national park you’re planning to visit is pet friendly.

Foster a Homeless Dog

Christmas is that time of year when we often reflect on how lucky we are to have a roof over our head and family and friends that we can spend time with. If you feel you have some extra time and space in your heart, consider fostering a dog over the holiday period. Unfortunately our pounds and rescue groups are inundated at this time of year, with people surrendering their pets before they go on holiday. Fostering can be a great way to temporarily give a dog a home and can provide a playmate for your dog or cat during the silly season when you may not be home much.

Finally…

Enjoy the festive season, we hope you and your furry family enjoy spending more time together during the holidays!

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Save Money by Grooming Your Dog at Home

Many dog owners prefer to leave haircuts to professional groomers. It’s a job that really takes some know-how and experience to do properly – particularly for dogs with long, continuously growing hair.

But there’s no reason that you can’t become an expert at cutting your dog’s hair, though there may be the occasional comic result along the way! The great thing is that hair grows back, it might take 1cm per month, but eventually that slightly uneven first attempt will start to look much better!

Equipment

Clippers can be extremely cheap and you can certainly use any style of clippers, rather than having to buy specialised pet clippers. Some are able to be sharpened, which will extend the life of the clippers. When humans use clippers they usually use plastic guards to clip at a longer length. These tend to snag in longer hair coats so are less useful in pets. For around the paws and ears, a sharp pair of scissors is useful, as some areas will be fiddly to use with the clippers. Also make sure you have plenty of treats on hand and a good brush.

Getting ready to clip

When you start out, having someone to hold your pet is ideal. Groomers will save their backs by always using an elevated table and may even have an apparatus to hold the dog in place or to clip the collar to. Clipping up on the kitchen table can be a great way to keep your dog from moving, but make sure you put a non-slip mat on the table first.

How often?

If your dog has a continuously growing coat, clipping every 6-8 weeks is ideal. If you are able to brush your dog regularly and prevent mats from forming, grooming is not as necessary, but if your dog matts easily you may need to clip the coat short more often. In some ways a longer coat can provide an insulating layer to protect against heat and cold. For dogs that feel the heat however, clipping the belly so your dog can cool down by lying on the ground can help, while still providing protection from the sun.

Care of your clippers

To keep your clippers clean and running smoothly it is worthwhile investing in some clipper spray to keep the blades clean and lubricated. The spray can also be used if the blades are getting hot while clipping your dog. Keep the blades sharp; they are more likely to cut if they are blunt. You will need to have them professionally sharpened in the same place that would sharpen knives. After you use your clippers, brush them free from hair with a toothbrush and apply some blade oil or the clipper spray.

Here are a few tips for doing the job properly. Select a quiet place free from distractions and remember the hair will end up everywhere, so find somewhere easy to clean! • If your dog is dirty bathe your dog first, using a shampoo made for pets. • Once the fur is dry, brush out any snags or mats. • Use clippers in the direction of hair growth in long smooth strokes. • Use scissors for touch-up and for trimming around extremities: legs, ears and face. • To clip the paws, brush against the direction of hair growth to push the hair between the toes upwards and cut with the scissors. You can use the clippers to do the underside of the feet.

• Around the eyes, ensure there is no hair growing over your pet’s eyes that could interfere with vision. If your pet is wiggly, using blunt-tipped, curved scissors helps. • After brushing give your pet a good brush, or if you haven’t already bathed your pet, give him a bath.

Additional tips for nervous dogs

If your pet is a little nervous about the clippers, get some treats and get him accustomed to the noise of the clippers first. Keep any sessions short and give lots of praise, attention and treats for staying still, even for a short time. Having an additional helper on hand to give your pet treats while grooming is also useful for nervous pets. For pets that tend towards anxiety it may be even more important to groom your pet at home, as you will be able to spend more time acclimatising your pet to the process, while a busy grooming parlour will need to move more quickly. That being said, some groomers offer grooming rehabilitation for nervous pets if you ask. When selecting a groomer rely on word-of-mouth and find a groomer who is very good with anxious pets. The level of care your pet receives is much more important than the quality of the cut afterwards.

Matted dogs

For dogs that have matts, sometimes using the clippers can be very painful. It may be necessary to de-mat first using a specialised comb (more information here). If the matts are not too close to the skin, using the clippers on the shortest setting would be the best approach to take the matts off close to the skin. You will need to start somewhere where there are no matts to get to the base of the coat. If the process will be too extensive and painful, consider discussing with your Vet giving your pet a sedative and having the procedure done in hospital instead. Once the matts are gone it will be much easier to maintain the coat with brushing and clipping before they start to develop again.

Grooming can be a bonding experience with your pet and we hope you enjoy this new skill. And once you master the basics, let your creativity flow and try out some of the more adventurous clips.

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My Cat Won’t Eat! What Should I Do?

If your cat is fussy, a little sick, elderly or you need to change foods, you may have encountered how much your cat dislikes change.

Helping your cat to like a new food or transition onto a special diet, or perhaps even eat when he may be a little under the weather or unable to smell can be a challenge. Here we share some hints and tips to encourage your cat to eat.

Please note: if your cat is not eating, the most important thing is to visit your vet to work out why your cat is not eating. This article is not a substitute for your veterinarian’s advice.

Why change diet?

There are many reasons you may need to change your cat’s diet. For example you may have a cat with kidney problems, food intolerances or allergies, your cat may be overweight, or your cat may need a better diet for dental care. Whatever the reason, it can be a little traumatic for everyone involved. Cats do not like things to change. For the most part they are happy eating the same old thing every day and will be very stubborn about changes.

Do the change gradually

Unless advised by your vet, all diet changes should be gradual, over at least 7 days. Your pet has enzymes and bacteria that have adapted to digest that old food, so a sudden diet change can cause an upset stomach, diarrhoea and sometimes vomiting. During the first 3 days 25% of the total food should be the new food. For days 4-5, 50% should be the new food, and for days 6-7, 75 % of the food should be the new food.

Utilise smell

Cats are very sensitive to smell. They will often refuse to eat a new food until it is warmed to body temperature. Instinctively they like to eat things ‘freshly killed’ and warm. Try microwaving the food until it is slightly warm, just watch for that hot spot in the middle and never feed them cooked bones.

Changing from dry to wet food

If you have a cat with urinary issues or diabetes your cat may be best eating higher protein wet food. Many cats love dry biscuits, so transitioning them to wet food can result in a hunger strike. Follow the above advice with the gradual transition and start mixing your cat’s biscuits in with just a small amount of wet food.

You can also just add some warm water to the biscuits and let them sit for 5 minutes to soften them a little to get him used to a new texture, but the same taste. Just don’t leave that food out for more than 4 hours and avoid doing this as a long-term solution. Dry foods are prone to forming moulds and adding moisture compounds the problem.

Dry foods are often sprayed with flavour enhancers that make them absolutely delicious, but this does not mean they are healthy. If you have a very stubborn cat, grind up the biscuits into a powder using a mortar and pestle, then sprinkle them onto the new food.

Introducing meat and bones

If your vet has recommended some whole raw rabbit, or raw chicken necks or wings for dental health, your cat may want nothing to do with this new and unfamiliar food. Sometimes some sneakiness is required. Invest in a mincer or a good pair of bone-cutting scissors (used for sectioning chicken carcasses).

Start out by chopping those bones up into very small pieces, then mix them in with your cat’s regular food. Gradually increase the size of the bone pieces over time until your cat is on board with the change.

Using broths, gravies and mixing food

Many cats love a little broth and flavour added to their food, but please check with your vet if this is appropriate for your cat’s situation. For example you can use onion-free, salt reduced stock and mix it in with the new food. To make your own tuna broth, add 3 cups of water to a small can of tuna and mash it up, then freeze it in ice cube trays.

This in particular works well for cats with kidney disease to encourage them to eat a renal diet. Even if your cat is eating a small amount of other food, at least if the majority is the renal food there is still some benefit. Cottage cheese, BBQ chicken, regular canned food or even a few biscuits may be just enough to encourage your pet to eat.

Use touch

Many cats will eat if they are patted or hand-fed. This might be just enough to get them started, so try it and see if a nice long, slow stroke from head to tail helps your pet eat. If your cat is leaning into your pat, chances are they are enjoying it, so continue.

Exercise

Encouraging your cat to play can increase his appetite, so get out that laser pointer or fishing-line toy and encourage your pet to pounce. If your cat walks on a harness, you could even head to the great outdoors for some fresh air. You may also find that if you withdraw food, then encourage some activity, your cat is more keen to experiment.

Syringe feeding

If all else fails, ask your vet about syringe feeding. There are specialised foods that are easy to liquefy, like Hills A/D, and in some cases your vet might recommend human, meat-based baby food for short-term use. Your vet can also place a feeding tube if your cat is not eating.

What if my cat really won’t eat?

Cats really do need to eat regularly. If they go on a hunger strike they are at risk of a condition called hepatic lipidosis, which will make them very sick. If your cat is regularly eating less than 50% of his normal ration or is going more than 24 hours without eating, see your vet.

So while many cats will take months to transition from dry to wet food, a gradual approach will eventually work for even the most reluctant cat. Just be persistent and try the tricks listed above. But if all else fails and you need to do a transition fast, ask your vet about appetite stimulants to encourage eating.

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The Risk of Anesthesia in Pets

For some pet owners, discussions about procedures that involve anesthesia can be stressful. Many of us have heard stories about life-threatening complications that can arise due to sedation, and it makes us worry for our own pets when anesthesia is necessary for certain procedures. The use of anesthesia can be especially worrying when your pet is a little older and not as resilient. 

In this article we cover the topics that every pet owner needs to know about anesthesia and the risks for their pet. What  anesthesia entails, and when is it needed. The risks of administering anesthesia, and the ways that your veterinary team works to keep your dog or cat safe while under anesthesia. 

What is anesthesia?

Anesthesia is the use of a combination of medications to induce sedation, tranquilization, or a state of unconsciousness for certain medical or surgical procedures. There are three types of anesthesia: local, regional, and general anesthesia. 

Local Anesthesia

Local anesthesia is when one small part of the body is numbed. This type of anesthesia can be utilized when a small bump or skin tag needs to be removed. It involves the injection of a numbing agent like lidocaine. Some pets can be completely awake for this while others may need mild sedation if they are anxious or scared. 

Regional anesthesia 

Regional anesthesia is utilized more in human medicine than veterinary medicine. It is used to block pain in a certain area of the body. In humans, epidurals are an example. Dogs can benefit from regional anesthesia in certain kinds of painful surgeries like knee or back surgery.

General anesthesia 

Patients are completely unconscious for procedures performed under general anesthesia. A short-acting induction agent is given and then the unconsciousness is maintained with inhaled gas anesthesia like sevoflurane. Invasive surgical procedures, orthopedic procedures, and dental prophylaxes are all examples of procedures that should be performed under general anesthesia. In orthopedic procedures, it is common to combine regional anesthesia with general anesthesia.  

When is it necessary to use anesthesia for a pet?

For veterinarians in general practice, there are several types of procedures that can be performed such as spays/neuters, mass removals, bladder stone removals, dental prophylaxes, other soft tissue surgeries like spleen removal, and sometimes orthopedic procedures like knee surgery.

All of these require the use of general anesthesia because the patient needs to be completely still. Anesthesia also helps to mitigate pain and discomfort. 

Deep dental cleaning often needs general anesthesia too. Many pet owners ask about dental cleanings for their pet while he or she is conscious. These types of cleanings are not true dental prophylaxes because deep cleaning below the gumline is necessary in order to be effective. If a cleaning is performed while the pet is awake, the cleaning will not be effective at all, nor will it provide an opportunity to look for endodontic disease with the use of dental x-rays.  

Anesthesia risks and precautionary measures 

Every cat and dog is different and will have varied risk factors. This means that an older pet or a pet with heart disease, kidney disease, etc. should not receive the same anesthetic protocol as a very young, healthy pet. Your veterinarian will evaluate your cat or dog and determine which protocol is best. 

ASA Scoring System 

Most veterinarians use the ASA scoring system to determine a pet’s anesthetic risk and how best to proceed. The ASA system was adapted from human medicine from the American Society of Anesthesiologists and scores a patient from one to five, with five being the highest risk for complications due to general anesthesia. 

Class 1 – young and/or healthy patient (minimal risk)

Class 2 – mild systemic disease; usually seniors, neonates, or obese patients (slight risk)

Class 3 – moderate systemic disease; low-grade heart murmur, anemia, fever (moderate risk)

Class 4 – severe systemic disease; severe heart disease, shock, lung disease, uncontrolled diabetes, end-stage kidney disease (high risk) 

Class 5 – extreme risk of complications but patient might die without surgery

Class E – emergency status, can be attached to the other classes (e.g. ASA 2E)

Pre-anesthetic blood work

Pre-anesthetic blood work can help rule out underlying illness before it becomes a problem. It can look for white blood cell count, red blood cell count, platelet count, liver enzymes, kidney values, proteins, blood sugar, etc. If blood parameters are abnormal, your vet may recommend additional testing or take special precautions to minimize the risk of anesthetic complications. 

Caution when administering sedative medications 

Some of the medications that are used as sedatives prior to induction can cause decreases in heart rate and blood pressure. Medications like acepromazine should not be used in patients with heart disease, liver disease, or kidney disease, and it should be used with caution in brachycephalic breeds. Induction agents like propofol should be administered slowly; otherwise, it may cause apnea which is when breathing stops completely. 

Monitoring vitals 

Monitoring a patient’s vitals during anesthesia is extremely important. Many veterinary staff are trained to monitor heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, and oxygen saturation. An electrocardiogram or EKG can be continuously monitored to look for heart arrhythmias, and temperature is monitored to ensure that a patient doesn’t become too cold. Intravenous fluid support can minimize the risk of low blood pressure or hypotension, especially due to blood loss. 

Recovery and post-surgery is a critical time 

The most likely time for complications to arise is during recovery or post-surgery, especially in cats. Temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate should be closely monitored while the patient recovers. If severe blood loss occurred, a blood transfusion may be necessary. If a patient is in extreme pain, additional pain medications can be given. Hypothermic patients can be kept warm with towels or heating apparatuses. 

Many patients are expected to stay in the hospital for at least five to six hours before going home. More severe surgical procedures may require that your pet remain hospitalized for a day or two post-surgery. The goal for same-day procedures is that patients should be able to walk without assistance. Some may be tired or groggy for a day or two while others go right back to having normal energy that evening! 

Making an informed decision on the risk of anesthesia for your cat or dog 

Anesthetic protocols are not intended to be “one size fits all.” Your veterinarian will help you weigh the pros and cons of general anesthesia and will discuss the risks with you. 

Thanks to the many technological advances in veterinary medicine and anesthesiology, the risk of anesthetic complications and anesthetic death are much lower. If you have concerns or other questions, contact your veterinarian to express your concerns and figure out what approach will be best for your furry family member.

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How Can I Tell my Puppy’s Age with its Teeth?

Wondering how old your puppy is? You can estimate its age by looking at its teeth! Puppy teeth usually fall out and are replaced with adult teeth at around six months of age. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through how to figure out your puppy’s age by taking a look at its teeth. Keep reading to learn more!

It’s easy to tell a puppy’s age when you know their actual birth date. For rescue dogs and puppies adopted from shelters, it is often not possible to determine their true age. Many veterinarians and veterinary staff rely on a dog’s teeth in order to approximate their age. For adult dogs, it can be hit or miss, but for puppies, estimations can be fairly accurate!

Newborn puppies

Puppies who are younger than three weeks old will have no teeth at all. Puppies who are younger than two weeks will still have closed eyelids. By the time puppies are four to five weeks of age, their incisors start to erupt. These are the tiny, single-rooted teeth that appear in the front of the mouth. The next set of teeth, the premolars, begin to show around four to six weeks of age. The canine teeth, which are fang-like, start to come in shortly after that, at around five to six weeks.

In general, puppies that are six to eight weeks old should have evidence of all their puppy teeth starting to develop. By the time a puppy is eight to ten weeks old, all puppy teeth should be fully erupted. Puppies should have a total of 28 teeth once all their puppy teeth are present.

There are some situations where development is delayed, and some puppy teeth can become impacted. Delayed tooth eruption can negatively impact the formation of adult teeth as well, so it is important to talk with your vet if your puppy’s teeth haven’t fully developed. This is also the case if your puppy’s teeth are not developing in the proper direction. Teeth that occlude the palate or the lips can cause oral trauma, trouble eating, and pain.

  Here is a chart to help you better understand which teeth we are talking about in the section below:

Permanent tooth development

When the permanent teeth get ready to erupt, they help push the puppy teeth or deciduous teeth out of the way. This is usually signaled around 12 to 13 weeks of age, when excessive teething and chewing start. The permanent incisor teeth will appear around 14 to 15 weeks of age, followed by the premolar teeth around 17 to 20 weeks of age. The canine teeth are next at 18 to 20 weeks, and molar teeth are the last to erupt at five to seven months.

It can take many weeks for the permanent teeth to be considered fully erupted. In most cases, a puppy will be seven or eight months old before all permanent teeth are developed and settled. The average older puppy and adult dog will have 42 permanent teeth. Dogs with shorter mouths and brachycephalic faces may develop fewer teeth.

Some dogs may retain some of their deciduous teeth. This can be problematic because it can cause adult teeth to erupt at incorrect angles and can cause crowding around the teeth. This makes it easier for tartar and calculus to build up in between tooth spaces. Also, misaligned teeth can cause trauma to the palate and lips. Retained teeth should be extracted as soon as possible.

Sometimes, teeth can become impacted and may not erupt correctly. Whenever a tooth is “missing” or looks like it never developed, dental x-rays are important to make sure the tooth isn’t impacted. When impacted teeth are left intact, they can cause dentigerous cysts. Dentigerous cysts are openings in the bone surrounding an impacted tooth. They can become painful for dogs. Treatment involves surgical removal of the cyst and impacted tooth, best performed by a veterinary dental specialist.

Information on dental care

Since puppies lose their deciduous teeth, regular brushing is not something that is stressed by most veterinarians. However, it is best to start this at an early age because it is part of training to get used to routine dental care for when a puppy is older. Routine brushing and the use of oral hygiene products can delay the accumulation of plaque and tartar, and it can help prevent the development of periodontal disease. For more information on dental care in dogs, please visit the link for this article.

Aging dogs beyond 6 months

While looking at the teeth can help age a dog fairly accurately up to 6 months, going beyond that is more of an estimate and based on the condition of the teeth. This can include the amount of discoloration of the teeth, or wearing of the teeeth. This is not the most accurate of methods, but if a dog has pearly white teeth, you can generally say the dog is between 6-18 months old. If it is slightly yellow, but there is no evidence of worn down molars or canines and no serious dental disease, it is likely between 18 months to 2 years old.

Summary

Dogs can be accurately aged up to 6 months of age. Puppy teeth begin erupting around 4-5 weeks of age, and the permanent incisors start coming in at 12-13 weeks. The premolars come in around 17-20 weeks, and the permanent canines come in around 18-20 weeks. Older puppies to adults have 42 total teeth if they have all their teeth erupted – which means they are at least 6 months old! Anything beyond that is based on wear and tear on the teeth and should be considered a rough estimate.

    The post How Can I Tell my Puppy’s Age with its Teeth? appeared first on VetBabble.

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How do I Teach My Dog to Shake?

Dogs are the best. They’re always happy to see you, they love spending time with you, and they’re always up for a good game of fetch. But did you know that dogs can also be great helpers? Dogs can be taught to do all sorts of things, like shake hands or bring you your slippers. In this blog post, we’ll teach you how to teach your dog to shake hands. It’s a fun trick that both you and your dog will enjoy!

Teaching your dog to shake is a great party trick and one that is easily taught. You can even get the kids involved.

Most children over the age of 7 years can be taught basic training techniques and in fact many children are more persistent than adults when it comes to training the family pet!

What do You Need?

Patience

1 dog preferably with at least 1 front paw

Small tasty treats that don’t take long to chew (use something high value such as bbq chicken or liver treats if your dog is hard to motivate, or train when he is hungry)

Just 5 minutes each day

Steps on Teaching a Dog to Shake:

There is actually more than one way to teach your dog how to shake hands because, after all, not every dog learns in the same way.

The Hidden Reward Method:

Assuming your dog can sit, the first step is to get him in position.

Hold a treat in your hand and show him the treat (it may be useful to have the remaining treats easy to access in a pouch or pocket), then close your fist over the treat.

Hold the treat, in your closed fist close to his foot, about 5cm/2in off the ground.

If your dog stands up, ask him to sit again.

If your dog lifts his paw even a little, or even shifts weight onto the other paw, tell him he is a good boy and give him the treat.

Most dogs will bat at your hand to get the treat, so as soon as this happens open your hand to reveal the treat and tell him ‘good’ or ‘yes’, whatever your signal is for doing the right thing.

At the same time your other hand should be held out flat to ‘shake’ when your dog lifts his paw, so you can grab his paw while he takes the treat.

Reward him immediately when he does the correct thing, even if he only lifts his foot a little bit the first time.

When he is reliably lifting his paw for a treat, add the word ‘shake’.

Gradually phase out the treats, so he only gets a treat intermittently once you are sure he knows the trick.

The Wait & Watch Method:

Ask your dog to sit down.

When your dog is in a seated potion, hold out your hand with the palm facing upward. Your hand should be at the same level as your dog’s knee, so it will be easy for him to reach.

Wait to see what he does….

Your dog may sniff your hand or give it a lick, but will eventually paw at your hand when you don’t move it.

The moment your see your dog lift his paw, give him a word of praise and reward him with a tasty treat.

Repeat those steps of ‘waiting it out’ until your dog begins to lift his paw as an instant response to your extended hand. When he begins to react, you can aid in your command word, “shake.”

Cracking Under Pressure Method:

Ask your dog to sit.

Using one of your fingers, gently the back of your dog’s paws, just below his dew claw.

The light pressure will be a bit of a bother to the pooch and he will move away from it.

As soon as your dog bends his leg or lifts his paw, tell him “good” and present him with a yummy treat.

Tips & Tricks:

Struggling? No problem!

Here are a few tips and tricks you can use to make the process of teaching your dog how to shake, that much simpler:

Always ask your dog to sit down.

A dog may have four legs, but he can still loose balance if one of them isn’t touching the ground. So, always ask your dog to sit before asking him to shake.

Always use the same command and praise words.

Our dogs can learn and understand several words, but it is confusing to a dog when you start mixing up words for the same trick.

Teach the ability to shake on just one of of your dog’s paws before moving to the other one.

Dogs don’t really generalize very well, so if you tell him to shake with his right paw, he is only going shake with his right paw. Switching the command from right to left will slow the training process, and frustrate your pooch. Once your dog has the shaking process down on one paw, then you can start working with the other one. Just remember, you will need different words of command for your dog to understand which paw you want him to life.

Only practice with your dog for 5-10 minutes per day, no longer.

Dogs don’t have a very long attention span and we, as humans, don’t have a ton of patience either. So, to avoid ending in frustration and annoyance, keep the training sessions short but consistent each day.

Always end on a positive note.

If your dog just isn’t getting it, stop the hand shake training and go back to a trick he does have down. You can try hand shake training again the next day.

Only use bite sized treats.

Unless you want to spend the majority of your training time watching your dog eat, you are going to want to pick a treat that’s small in size and not too chewy.

Reward your dog for Trying.

Even if your dog’s paw doesn’t quite make it to your extended hand to complete the shake, reward his efforts. Lifting his paw in response to your command still counts!

Teaching your dog how to shake is both fund and rewarding for all members of the family, but it’s important to remember to be patient. Just like people, some dogs are just a bit slower at catching on to new things than others and it is easy to lose patients with your dog. Just remember that practice makes perfect, and if you are diligent with your pup, he will eventually get the hand of it.

Additional Tips

Clicker training is another great way to shape behaviors like ‘shake’.

Or if you have a particularly stubborn dog, this is another way to teach ‘shake’.

  You’re now ready to start teaching your dog how to shake hands! Remember, you can use one of three methods – the hidden reward method, the wait and watch method, or the cracking under pressure method. Whichever way you choose, make sure you always end on a positive note with plenty of treats. And don’t forget, use lots of praise too! Start by teaching your dog to shake one paw at a time before putting them together. Always reward your pup for trying so they know that they are doing a good job.

  The post How do I Teach My Dog to Shake? appeared first on VetBabble.

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