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(by Hans Ott)

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it's funny although a little exasperating how artists designing "princess" or medieval-esque gowns really do not understand how those types of clothes are constructed. We're all so used to modern day garments that are like... all sewn together in one layer of cloth, nobody seems to realize all of the bits and pieces were actually attached in layers.

So like look at this mid-1400's fit:

to get the effect of that orange gown, you've got

chemise next to the skin like a slip (not visible here) (sometimes you let a bit of this show at the neckline) (the point is not to sweat into your nice clothes and ruin them)

kirtle, or undergown. (your basic dress, acceptable to be seen by other people) this is the puffing bits visible at the elbow, cleavage, and slashed sleeve. It's a whole ass dress in there. Square neckline usually. In the left picture it's probably the mustard yellow layer on the standing figure.

coat, or gown. This is the orange diamond pattern part. It's also the bit of darker color visible in the V of the neckline.

surcoat, or sleeveless overgown. THIS is the yellow tapestry print. In the left picture it's the long printed blue dress on the standing figure

if you want to get really fancy you can add basically a kerchief or netting over the bare neck/shoulders. It can be tucked into the neckline or it can sit on top. That's called a partlet.

the best I can tell you is that they were technically in a mini-ice-age during this era. Still looks hot as balls though.

Coats and surcoats are really more for rich people though, normal folks will be wearing this look:

tbh I have a trapeze dress from target that looks exactly like that pale blue one. ye olden t-shirt dress.

so now look here:

(this is a princess btw) both pieces are made of the same blue material so it looks as if it's all one dress, but it's not. The sleeves you're seeing are part of the gown/coat, and the ermine fur lined section on top is a sideless overgown/surcoat. You can tell she's rich as fuck because she's got MORE of that fur on the inside of the surcoat hem.

okay so now look at these guys.

Left image (that's Mary Magdelene by the way) you can see the white bottom layer peeking out at the neckline. That's a white chemise (you know, underwear). The black cloth you see behind her chest lacing is a triangular panel pinned there to Look Cool tm. We can call that bit the stomacher. Over the white underwear is the kirtle (undergown) in red patterned velvet, and over the kirtle is a gown in black. Right image is the same basic idea--you can see the base kirtle layer with a red gown laced over it. She may or may not have a stomacher behind her lacing, but I'm guessing not.

I've kind of lost the plot now and I'm just showing you images, sorry. IN CONCLUSION:

you can tell she's a queen because she's got bits I don't even know the NAMES of in this thing. Is that white bit a vest? Is she wearing a vest OVER her sideless surcoat? Girl you do not need this many layers!

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Fish Pix

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First time ever seeing the aurora, I was not disappointed.

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The World of Interiors, November 1996. Photo - Andreas von Einsiedel

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Most of you were either not born or old enough to remember the 2006 Israeli war on Lebanon and the scale of the terror Israel inflicted. In 2006, Israel killed about 1,200 in Lebanon in 34 days which was the whole duration of the aggression. Yet, today alone, Israel killed close to 300 in Lebanon. This intensification is the direct result of the way Israel faced absolutely no consequences for its unprecedented violence in Gaza for a whole year.

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Sad Toothmonster Update: her highness has this ongoing skin infection and is extremely unhappy about the vet. I didn't take home the cone because why the hell would I pay upwards of 40 dollars for some plastic she will destroy within a few minutes of being left alone with it. Another week's pay for an hour of the vet's time later we have not totally fixed the problem but making progress.

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Students work on typewriters outside, Bryn Mawr, 1972 | via Bryn Mawr College Special Collections

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Mossy rocks in August sun, Sweden.

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1894-1901 Portrait of four young women (photo by C.M. Bell, Washington, D.C.)

(Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division)

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I love the concept of the little free library. How comforting it is to know there are other people who take joy in giving and plenty of people who respect the idea of something? How lovely it is that such a little feature of our society can bring joy.

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