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March 23rd: An Overdue and interesting Update of this adventure.

We are back in Toronto and on Day 7 of the 14-day mandatory self-isolation requirement for returning travelers.  We are well. Our friends have been providing the kind of support that makes shut-ins feel great.  Yaay!!

We said goodbye to Olón on Sunday March 15th and took the three hour bus ride to Guayaquil with the intention of boarding our one-hour flight to Quito.

The beach area in Olón was our restaurant, people-watching place, and non-judgemental watering hole for two weeks. 

Step aside Julia Childs. This is real food. Shrimp and rice. Each poke into the mound of rice delivered a shrimp until it was all done. $6

The one-meal-a-day breakfast: bolón (a baseball-size, meat-stuffed plantain ball, garnished with a fried egg, and a slice of beef.  Having this with coffee is an excellent start to the day. We tried, but could not finish the whole thing. Next day we opted to share one bolón. The day after that reverted to having one each.  It is that good. $5.

Back to the real story of Guayaquil airport. 

The welcoming party at departure level of the airport were four masked men behind yellow caution tape. “Passengers only beyond this point”.  That much Spanish I understood.  The surgical masks hid their facial expression, but we took that directive to be serious.

It is a bit disconcerting to try and do a self check-in with the emailed confirmation number and receive the polite electronic response “We are sorry, but there is no record of your reservation or payment or payment for a flight to Quito”.  Huh? What? What?  Must be a mistake.  Try again. Use a different machine. Thoughts of missing the next morning’s connecting flight out of Quito to Toronto were not sugarplum fairies. 

A snail’s walk-and-wait to the check-in counter brought us to a welcoming Latam airline attendant.  Once we established that English was probably the best lingo for this particular set of circumstances the queries began.  She could not find our reservation either. Uh oh!  What now?  Several consultations with colleagues, punches and clicks on the computer, and telephone calls later the jefa (female big boss) was at our elbows. Five minutes later we had boarding passes with exit row seats for a slightly later flight.  I have been always wrong, but I fantasized that the check-in attendant was looking me up and down because I was so irresistible.  All the while she was being merciful with the seating options.  Story of my life.  It was here that we learned that the Ecuador airport would be closed to international flights within 24 hours. The suggestion was that we get to the Quito airport earlier than normal to ensure that our seats were not given to someone else.  The enormity, seriousness and social effects of this epidemic were now part of our lives.

Bags in hand, saxophone on my back, on the way out of the Quito airport, some masked, gowned and goggled people approached us with a “request” to take our temperatures. Obviously there was something serious happening and we were now part of it.  Even the night clerk at the hotel gave us a masked welcome.

Next morning we rose at 3.00am and got to the airport by prearranged taxi. The driver as a very short person (male? female?). S/he wore a hat, sweater, jacket and a scarf that covered everything but the eyes.  Glad there was not need for a police identification lineup. There was a large container of hand sanitizer in the car though.

Even at that time of the morning the Quito Airport was buzzing.  We had to stand and wait about an hour before the Air Canada check-in counter was open.  While checking in we overheard the stories of so many Canadians who were refused access to that overbooked flight.  We had no choice in the seating arrangements. Most learned that there would be no other outbound flights for at least 2 weeks. At least that was the thinking at the time. We know now that is not the case.

What followed were the usual immigration and security checks.  For the first time in many year of being traveling musicians Nina’s clarinet barrels were red flagged at the X-ray machine and were exposed for proof. Of course I had my eyes on the process while holding my pants and putting on my belt with the same hand. Ah!  Travel is so much fun. Then of course there was the repacking of the laptops, iPads, camera, spectacles, wallet and watch.  Did I miss anything?

Despite all the personal precautions, hand washing, sanitizing etc, we sat on the aircraft for two hours at the gate while the airline personnel took standby passenger off and brought passengers on to fill the few seats that were unaccounted for.  Apparently the Canadian Embassy people were involved.  Glad those folks were able to get out, but if there was going to be viral transmission, that aircraft would form the perfect conditions.  We were in close proximity and having to touch everything. Nina and I had no masks or gloves. We did have hand sanitizer though.  I thought of the flight attendants and their level of exposure.  They carried on with caring and professional service.

Anyway we are now in our home in Toronto and filling out time very well as we normally do. Friends have been reaching out.  Our music buddy Alan has been filling our shopping list as needed. So far I have had to make a single hundred meter walk outdoor to the pharmacy to renew a prescription.  We are fortunate to have the electronic know-how and ability to connect and check in with friends and family, especially those who are far away.

7 Days of Quarantine to go.

Stay connected to this blog. We will post some more of the sights and experiences from this unique journey.

[dsjtravels2020]

Carnival in Quito

Carnival celebrations happen to be during the two weeks that we spent in Quito. Lots of music an laughter in the streets.  It was exciting for us to share this celebration with the indigenous peoples and to hear their songs and even dance to the rhythms of drums, guitars and pan flutes.

In 2019 we were properly “foamed” with Carioca in both Cuenca and Quito until we figured it out.  Apparently the tradition is to throw buckets of water or water balloons from balconies into the street at unsuspecting passersby.  More recently that part of the inclusive revelry has been replaced with Carioca, cans of projectile foam that are liberally used.  Because of our experience last year, we armed ourselves with several cans of Carioca for both self defense and stealth attack.

I have tried to capture the atmosphere with a five minute video and several pictures. BUT you have to be there to feel it.

https://youtu.be/0D1VMOVjmhI

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The Wonder of Quito

We spent a total of two weeks in Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. This is our second visit and again we chose to live in the Centro Histórico. This is a bustling, dynamic area during the day time with voices of hawkers and the sounds of musicians, fruit sellers and street food venders. It is the place of churches, museums and multiple signs of the city’s Spanish colonial experience, painfully bourne by the indigenous peoples.  When darkness falls the people disappear and all is eerily quiet.

The Cathedral of Plaza San Francisco.

The faithful

La Plaza Grande

The city has a special police service to protect the tourism industry: tourists.  They are friendly folk who remind us to be aware of pick pockets and ladrones. Witless tourists are apparently easy victims.

Notice the difference in stature of these two women. The seller on the box is about average height of most Ecuadorians we met.

Our Hotel in an 18th Century building.

Our good friend, advisor and personal guide Daniela

This courtyard was part of the Archbishop’s residence. It is now leased to a series of restaurants.

Part of the Archbishop’s Palace on Plaza Grande beside the Presidential Palace

The Basilica at one end

The Vigilant Christ at the other

What can I say? Even the butterflies found me to be safe. What a beauty!

A stroll through La Plaza Grande.  This is the hub of social protests and fiestas.  We saw both. A great place to be for carnival. Will show that later.

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A visit to the Devil’s Cauldron

There is a video delight at the end of this post

On Feb 20 we took a day trip from Baños to experience El Pilón del Diablo. Both the journey and destination were more experience than vista.  Driving through the mountains and valleys was an overwhelming experience of the awesome presence of undisturbed natural beauty.  This is the Amazonia area of the planet, a world within a world. Lush mountain sides.  Relentless waterfalls both in the mountains and the valleys. Then there are the people who have been stewards of this system from the beginning of known time. Their farms and grazing fields are so high on the sloped hillside that one is distracted by the unuttered question “how do they get up there?”. But there was more to the journey than the destination. 

Cascada Agoyan.  The convergence of two rivers.

A waterfall that works like a car wash.

Manto de la Novia: Bridal Veil Falls.

The Main Event

If you got this far here is a video reward for you.

Thanks to Daniela of Awesome Ecuador.

[dsjtravels2020]

Baños

February 20

The Town of Holy Water and Miracles

This town celebrates it Holy Water and associated miracles. The natural hot springs an waterfalls are integral to the spirituality of the devoted population. The stories of water related miracles are represented in the art and legends.

we spent the night in Baños and early the next day made our way on a picturesque hike to La Cascade, Pailón del Diablo, the Devil’s Cauldron, a well-known waterfall.

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Exploring Quito

February 24,2020

We have been in Quito for over a week now and breathing easy. There is so much to explore and learn about in this Centro Historico that it will no doubt take more than a few weeks of being tourist for us to fathom. At the suggestions and encouragement of or friend Daniela, we decided on a day tip to Baños. This is a 4 hour drive from Quito.  It really helps when your friend is also a professional tour guide. She arranged an organized everything including sight seeing stops along the way. 

First stop was the artisan market of the Salasaka people. In addition to farming these indigenous people are known for their hand spun ponchos,shawl and blankets make from the wool of sheep and Alpaca.

I actually found a sweater that fit.  I think I bought it because she convinced me I looked “guapo” while wearing it. Good sales technique.

When home-schooling and work are the same day

More about Baños later.

Baños is spa country to some, but the waterfalls and hot springs are an e part of the towns people’s spirituality and value. 

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https://transcanadamusicblog.tumblr.com/post/190905802885/barbados-ecuador/embed

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We are on the move again

February 15, 2020

Well we head off to the airport in an hour.  Next stop Panama en route to Quito.  It is going to be a long day into night before our heads hit the pillows.  Looking forward to living in a different culture and speaking a different language. The language of music will make communication really easy.

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The People

When people get together there is food and friendship and fun.

Betty Hope Gittens is Barbadian born.  She resides in Ottawa, Canada. She is an 80 years old dynamo.  Want to know how remarkable Betty is?  Try Google. https://www.nationnews.com/nationnews/news/241776/conquering-500-miles-needy.  

This is how one meets the more interesting people in the world.  https://ottawacitizen.com/news/local-news/ottawa-woman-80-walks-pilgrimage-to-raise-186000-for-seniors. Stella Lady St John whom you met earlier is Betty’s sister.

We have also met the son of the late Errol Barrow, Prime Minister of Barbados and father of the nation’s independence.

There is nothing more rewarding than making music and having a few drinks with friends. 

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The People and the Music

February 2nd 2020

Yesterday we moved from St. Phillip of the gentle sunrises, calming breezes, pastoral landscape and ocean view for a more concrete style of living. We are now on the south coast in Worthing, Christ Church.

We still have nothing to complain about. The beach is a five-minute walk away and our friends now have no excuse for failing to visit us. We are quite close to the main road so the noise of traffic and cranked up sound systems don’t imply serenity.  Although the ears may complain the eyes can find delightful pleasures in the backyard where one can experience the orange and pawpaw trees in conversation.

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Food and Friends

January 22: A rainy day.  Who cares!

From our bedroom door and patio we have a perfect south easterly view of the Atlantic and can see the oncoming rain.  This was a stay-in day.  We practiced some music in preparation for a gig on Saturday at a local restaurant with musician friends.

This morning our host, Douglas, woke us up with a present of two avocados, saltfish and hot bake. 

It was 8.80 am and he already had his morning walk.  He bought it from a roadside stand.   Yumm!  It was good. I inhaled my portion and kept my eyes on Nina’s just in case.

(picture is of Oistins not Miami Beach)

We did indeed to go Miami Beach on Monday, but will talk about that special, non-touristy experience another time when I have pictures. I want to talk about food instead.  Our Blog our Topic. Beside, I don’t need the tan and I can refresh my melanin by just walking around shirtless.  I don’t do that either so no unnecessary reactions of shock or laughter.  In any case Nina would have dutifully walk ten paces behind to ensure that she is not seen as associated with such a sight.

(Pigtails with rice and red beans)

Back to food:  To experience the Barbados of DelCrom Smooth Jazz you have to eat real food and connect with the friendly people who prepare and serve it.  We buy meals from the back of van, roadside vendors, small shops# and (wait for it) gas stations. Yes GAS STATIONS!  Of course we have out favourites. The gas station in St. Phillip, near the fancy Crane Hotel, was Nina’s first adventure with BBQ pig tails. Now she is hooked by the plump wigglers. Finger-lickin’ might be a North American brand, but it certainly describes an unavoidable Barbadian foodie behaviour when it comes to Pig Tails. 

If concerned: Recommended, non medical prophylactics for elevated cholesterol levels.

A staple starch is Mac(aroni) pie. Then there is fish, lots of fish. Always an opportunity to talk with the cook while trying not to look touristy.  Nina passes for a Caribbean woman every time until she speaks.  Life’s good.

Taste buds wake up with hot sauce and food tastes better when eaten outside with the sounds of waves and soca seeking dominance of the ears. All senses in sync.

Notice the breadfruit (Google) and fried plantain. The eyes bulge and the stomach says “I am home”. Time to go for a nap.

Monday night was spent with close Barbadian friends and their friends. No better way to end a day of fun in the sun.

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More to Come

Tomorrow we visit Miami Beach, Christ Church for the early morning social sea bath. This is a traditional locals for locals to gather, exercise, swim and eat oranges in the sea. Hope I can capture some of that atmosphere while enjoying myself.

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What a Day for doing nothing! Just the way I like it. Ok. So we visited two of our favourite beaches. I liked the one with no people.

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Fishing is a game of patience and hope. Not to mention the belief that fish don’t warn their offspring that they could be hooked on bright shiny objects, like bad fast food.

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Meeting Lady Stella St. John

In the middle of our music making there was an enthusiastic knock on the cottage door. Our host introduced us to Lady Stella St. John.  He reminded us that when we were here in 2019 and played with our musician friends at the golf club, Lady St. John was in the audience.  Of course today was her day to be up close and personal with DelCrom Smooth Jazz.  A delightful woman she was indeed who fantasized aloud about having us play at her imaginary garden party. Of course we agreed.

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Lady Stella St. John, widow of Sir Harold St. John third Prime Minister of Barbados.

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The sun rises across from our cottage door.