eatingtheave

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122. Kai’s Thai Street Food and Bar

1312 NE 43rd St.

Even though Kai’s has been in the neighborhood for a long time, I have never been there. It looks more like a bar than a place to grab lunch - I blame the marquee - so I was never sure if it was open at the time I was most likely to be checking out new places. Then a co-worker told me that she knew the owners, and I realized the place was more of a mainstay in the neighborhood than I realized. I’m glad the Cherry Blossom Festival gave me an excuse to go.

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U District Cherry Blossom Festival

In 2021, I interviewed the executive director of the U District Partnership, Don Blakeney, for a story I wrote about the U District, and he shared some of his ideas for the future. One of them was to host an event that would coincide with the blooming of the cherry trees on the UW campus. 

This year, for the first time in two years, the UW welcomed people back to campus to see the trees, and I was excited to see Don’s plans come to fruition with the first Cherry Blossom Festival. The event, which takes place March 25 through April 10, features drink, food and shopping specials all related to cherry blossoms. I went out to check out some of the food and drink deals.

My first stop was Kai’s Thai Street Food and Bar, which had pink cherry blossom noodle soup as its special. The soup featured tofu that looks like cherry blossoms and pink cherry blossom broth, along with wide rice noodles, chicken, fried garlic scallions and cilantro. I don’t know what type of tofu it was, but it had a texture that was more like a chewy or crunchy seaweed, with a neutral flavor. I don’t think that I’d choose to eat it - although there was nothing objectionable about it - but it was worth eating for the beautiful visual effect it had on the meal, which fit in perfectly with the cherry blossom theme. 

The pink broth didn’t taste any different from the normal broth, but the real star of the meal was the heavy toasted garlic flavor. I’m someone who can’t have enough garlic, so I loved the oomph it gave to the dish, even though my co-workers and I joked that no one should get too close to us back at the office.

Overall, I really enjoyed this soup, and I’ll gladly seek this out once a year during the Cherry Blossom Festival. This soup is an experience, just like how it’s a special experience to go out to lunch with co-workers after mostly seeing them virtually for two years. 

After lunch we stopped by my favorite cafe, Cafe Allegro. I haven’t posted about Cafe Allegro on this blog, because it’s a coffee place, and I post about food here. But I always think of Cafe Allegro as the quintessential college coffee spot. I’ve spent time there writing or doing other work, and a table over there might be two people arguing about existentialism and a person sketching in a book on the other side of them. It’s a little grungy and arty - a place for misfits and dreamers or maybe just students looking for a quieter place to hang out and chat with their friends. I’ve had conversations that changed my life in that little cafe. So I was glad to have an excuse to go to the Allegro to get the cherry blossom mocha, which was basically a white chocolate mocha with cherry flavor.

The next week I grabbed a friend to join me at Sweet Alchemy Ice Cream, which has become my favorite place to get ice cream. I think it’s the best place in town - it’s creamy and silky smooth without being too rich. And it offers unique varieties of ice cream, often featuring Asian flavors that reflect owner Lois Ko’s heritage. Sweet Alchemy has become popular - the line was out the door when I last went there on a Friday night - and I’m happy for them. I know Lois takes her role as a business owner in the neighborhood seriously, and she works to strengthen the neighborhood by participation on the U District Partnership board and other examples of neighborhood activism.   

For the cherry blossom festival, Sweet Alchemy offered sakura ice cream, which features dried tart cherries, sake and orange blossom. When I ordered the cone, I expected an artificial cherry flavor like I’d get with some ice cream in the freezer section in my local supermarket. Instead I got the opposite experience. It was brown, not an artificial pink color. And it featured a mellow flavor with pops of acidity from the cherries and the orange blossom. 

Spring represents hope and deliverance from the darkness of winter - and so do the cherry blossoms. The surprise in every lick of that ice cream matched that feeling of optimism I felt that beautiful day. My friend and I agreed that we have to make this trip for ice cream a thing we do regularly - it was such a treat!

All of my experiences weren’t positive. I went to one place and asked for the  cherry blossom special, and they had no idea what I was talking about. But I forgive those bumps in the road in the first occurrence of an annual event. With the U District Partnership’s leadership, the business owners will be even more prepared next year. 

For my job, I keep a watch on the news. I saw many mentions of the Cherry Blossom Festival, and the media talked about it as if it was an established event, no doubt conflating it with the blossoming of the cherry blossoms and conflating the U District with the UW. As the UW more closely coordinates with the U District Partnership and takes on a bigger role in the neighborhood - as its most substantial tenants - I hope this event will become the institution that it already is.

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Laksa, Beetle Cafe

This dish serves as a reminder that we have an Indonesian restaurant on the Ave, and it’s even centrally located! Beetle Cafe is right next to U Bookstore. It’s also a halfway point from University Heights, where my friend was coming from, and my office on campus — so I might be making more visits to this little eatery. Laksa, a ubiquitous noodle dish in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, has the potential to become more ubiquitous in the United States too, according to The New York Times. With a coconut milk-based broth, it’s creamier and slightly more heavy than pho, and it comes with a kick of spice. Beetle Cafe doesn’t regularly feature laksa on their menu, but it was a special on the day I went in. I chose between egg and rice noodles. When I asked what was more traditional, they said both are equally acceptable, so I went with rice noodles. It also included shrimp, fish balls and an egg. I am a fan of soup, and it was delicious!

$13

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A visit to Tanuki Izakaya

When I looked at the menu at Tanuki Izakaya, I was surprised at the prices. This was definitely a step up the classiness scale from the cheap eats found on the Ave. Dishes ranged from $7 for edamame to $78 for a jewel box, or assortment of nine pieces of beautiful displayed sushi. We ended up at Tanuki Izakaya on a whim - and we weren’t in the mindset to have an expensive meal - so we didn’t get one of the jewel boxes, which start at $48. I’ve heard good things about the jewel boxes though, so I’d like to come back and order one someday.

So we picked and chose a combination of favorites and dishes new to us. I’d definitely return for the greens with black pepper toro, which is the fatty part of tuna. Give me the fatty part of any animal, and I will be happy. The toro was silky smooth with a rich flavor. This was my first time eating it, and I’m now a fan. I really want to return for the toro oshizushi, which is pressed sushi. 

Karaage is one of my favorite dishes. Their karaage was good, but I prefer the version at Village Sushi down the block, which is heavenly.

When Chris would go to izakaya places in Nagoya, the city where he taught English for two years, he’d get stacks and stacks of chicken skewers. Thighs are my favorite, so we ordered those, but they also have drumsticks, chest bones, gizzards, hearts and more.

I saw chawanmushi on the menu, and I was so curious about it. The menu listed it as “steamed savory custard with house-made truffle mushroom sauce.” I really regret not getting a picture of the dish once we dug in and you could see the silky custard underneath the truffle sauce - but I don’t think the dish lasted long after we broke the seal. It was so warm and and comforting, especially for a mushroom nut like me.

While we were eating, we watched a group of about 10 younger adults ordering their food. I thought, that’s the way to do it: Come with a group of people and order a bunch of stuff - or come for a special occasion with someone who loves Japanese food. I could also see a few dishes working for lunch, like the greens or a few of the skewers or the oshizushi. It’s definitely best to be enjoyed not as a casual meal, but as an experience with a friend who is as excited about food as you are. 

I will be back someday - I want to try more of those new-to-me dishes. Although it lightly won’t be part of my lunch circuit, I’m glad that the U District is attracting a variety of businesses, changing the neighborhood’s reputation for just featuring holes in the wall. Greens with black pepper toro: $24 Karaage: $10 Chicken thigh: $3.99 Chawanamushi: $9

[eatingtheave]

121. Tanuki Izakaya

5266 University Way NE

In recent years, more businesses have been popping up on the upper part of the Ave, north of 52nd St. NE. My guess that it’s due to the upzone and development in that part of neighborhood. At some point during the lockdown, I noticed that this izakaya place, specializing in small plates popular in Japan, had opened up across the street and a storefront north from Xi’an Noodles. Chris lived in Japan for two years and loves izakaya, so we were excited to check it. But during the pandemic, they were takeout-only, and we wanted to get the full dine-in experience. 

Finally, the night before the U District light rail station opened, we were kid-free and in the neighborhood, so the time finally came! A tanuki is a breed of Japanese rat dog, and you can see some examples here in this cute display when you walk in the door. Some say Totoro, from the movie My Neighbor Totoro, is part tanuki. The middle figure is from another Studio Ghibli movie, Pom Poko, all about tanukis, and the the figure at the far right is just cute. I want to buy one for Halloween!

[eatingtheave]

Welcome back to the U District

On Sept. 13, UW staff and faculty returned to campus, and today, Sept. 29, students are joining them with the beginning of fall quarter. I am a UW staff member, and I am slowly making my return back to the office. This means that I will regularly be in my favorite neighborhood and will be able to more easily explore U District restaurants again!

For my job, I wrote about the state of the U District community as it recovers from the worst of — and continues to cope with — the pandemic. The U District is experiencing a lot of change, with light rail opening on Oct. 2 and the development of towers and many other new buildings, following an upzone of the neighborhood in 2017. I have mixed feelings about the changes. I value the small, family-run businesses in the U District. I worry that they will be priced out and that the character of the neighborhood will change — a conversation happening in many parts of our rapidly developing city. But I talked to six U District community members, and I left every interview feeling optimistic for the neighborhood’s future, which is reflected in the story.

One of the people I talked to was Don Blakeney, executive director of the U District Partnership (UDP), an organization that represents the neighborhood’s business and community interests. The UDP is hosting a festival when light rail opens, and it is showing off the food scene as part of the celebration with a $3 food walk at 40 U District restaurants. I hope you’ll be there on Oct. 2. I will be!

I went back to the office on Sept. 13. It was my first day at the office of my new job, which I started in March 2020. My co-workers and I ventured to the Ave for lunch. We headed to a crowd-pleaser and perennial favorite, Sizzle & Crunch. Sadly, we found it boarded up and closed! 

It was a letdown to find Sizzle & Crunch this way after looking forward to coming back to the neighborhood. I checked Facebook and saw that they opened a new location in Federal Way, so I couldn’t imagine that it went out of business. Still, there was no sign indicating an opening date; it was a mystery. We ended up at Saigon Deli around the corner, a reliable spot for banh-mis and other Vietnamese food.

The following Friday, my boss offered to take me out to lunch as a welcome to the office. He had told me that he liked Arepa Venezuelan Kitchen, which serves its namesake sandwiches made with maize dough. So we headed up to the 50th and the Ave, which required a car ride from my current office on campus, as opposed to the brisk walk from my old office at UW Tower.

I got the Best Bart arepa, which includes pork and shredded beef with cilantro sauce. I’ve always found the pork a bit dry, and this time was no different. But I really enjoyed the shredded beef, so I think I’ll go with shredded beef only next time. I really tried not to stuff my face. I wanted to eat it daintily with a fork, like a civilized person. Instead, my attempts at mannerliness lost out to gluttony. I opened my mouth as wide as it could to get the clumps of meat into my belly.

The plantains we shared were fried, seared with a nice carmelized taste that contrasted nicely with the gooey, sweet inside I topped it off with an Inca Cola, a soda I haven’t seen since I went to Peru 10 years ago! I remembered it tasting like bubble gum 10 years ago, and yep, it tasted like bubble gum again. My boss asked, “How is it?” “Not great,” I said. It wasn’t disgusting, but I don’t need to have it for another 10 years. Still, it was a delight to find a Peruvian soda in Seattle. These small encounters with other cultures are what make the U District special.

After I finished work that Friday, I walked around the neighborhood, swinging by Sizzle & Crunch four days after the last time I visited it. This time, instead of boarded up and closed, I found a door open.

The opened door beckoned, so I poked my head in. I found the owner there — the same guy I talked to when he caught me taking a picture in 2017 and I explained I was a blogger. He was so happy and eager then — he thought I was a much more important blogger than I actually am. I’ve seen him many other times, sometimes rushed at the register with a furrowed brow. This time he was calm, a contrast to the chaos indicated by the door with the broken window. “We’re redecorating,” he said.

I let out a sigh of relief. There was definitely some damage to the restaurant, but maybe he was using the time to make the business better. It was another symbol of the neighborhood — broken but on the brink of good things to come.

[eatingtheave]

Buldak, U DupBop

When I looked at the menu of U DupBop, my eyes landed on one item: buldak. I had never heard of that dish, which wasn’t a surprise. There are a lot of Korean dishes I have never heard of. I asked my friend, who is half Korean, if she had ever heard of it. She hadn’t either. My curiosity was piqued.

I looked up buldak on my phone to find that it’s a spicy chicken dish with cheese.  I debated getting a more familiar Korean dish, but I never knew if I’d find this dish again. So I went for it - and I’m glad that I did.

As you can see in the picture, U DupBop’s version of this dish consisted of rice topped with chicken cut into strips and mozzarella cheese. I wasn’t sure what to do with the lettuce. For a second, I thought that I was supposed to mix it all together, like you would with bibimbap. Then I saw the dressing, which told me it was meant to be eaten like salad.

The chicken was delicious - it just tasted like it was sauteed with gochujang, the popular Korean sauce. The mozzarella gave it a rich, creamy flavor as it melted on to the chicken. I enjoyed it, but I was expecting more complexity. I’m curious to try other versions - or maybe even try making it myself one day. 

$13.99

[eatingtheave]

120. U DupBop

4124 University Way NE

U DupBop sits back on a lot with a unique feature on the Ave: a parking lot! It’s always felt like a neighborhood oddity as a result.

Before U DubBop occupied this building, it was occupied by a business called Ichiro Teriyaki, and it was the same format: Korean and Japanese food. I’m actually surprised I didn’t document my visit to Ichiro, which Yelp tells me was open as late as May 2019. I went there once and ate bibimbap. The service I got there was very very slow. I was not impressed -- so unimpressed, it seems, that I forgot to blog about it.

I returned to the building this time to have lunch with a friend and to check out the restaurant for a new entry on this blog. We actually wanted to go to Chiglet, a Korean fried chicken place across the street, but it looks like it didn’t survive the pandemic. Too bad; I had heard it was good and I never made it there. 

So U DupBop was our consolation prize. I walked in to find it looking much nicer than I remember it looking when it was Ichiro. The covered, open porch was a pleasant spot to sit on the hot day. The menu consisted of Korean favorites, like bibimbap, bulgogi and Korean fried chicken, and Japanese favorites, like teriyaki, sushi and bento boxes.

Hwae dub bap is a bibimbap-like dish with fish, and I imagine the owners named the restaurant as a play on words. U-Dub, Bop! Very cute. 

[eatingtheave]

It feels good to be back

Hello from the other side of the COVID-19 pandemic! To be clear, I realize the pandemic isn’t over. I read news for a living at my UW job, so I’ve learned a lot about COVID-19 variants and the virus’s seasonality. Maybe it’s only a brief reprieve, but day-to-day life is inching closer to normal. I know not everybody has the privilege of good health and security I have — still, it feels great.

Getting closer to normal means returning to the U District. I’ve visited the U District a number of times over the past couple of months, and some of the old vibrancy is back. People are in restaurants and walking up and down the street. Sound Transit is finishing up construction of the light rail station, set to open on Oct. 2, and work on 43rd St. NE is done. The city widened sidewalks to absorb the pedestrian traffic that will come with light rail and installed planting strips and picnic tables.

Picnic tables on NE 43rd St., looking east toward Sweet Alchemy ice cream.

I have gotten take out from the U District in the past year, but it’s been a long time since I’ve written on this blog. You can chalk this up to a few factors: It’s not as fun to write about getting takeout. It’s not as fun to explore U District food without the experience of being in the restaurant, getting a sense of the ambience, talking to the person behind the counter and meeting up with the friends you like to eat with. I also blame the pandemic blahs, which make the effort that goes into writing even more taxing.

So take it as a sign of my good mental health that I am able to explore the U District and share some of my recent experiences — like meeting my co-workers for the first time! I started my job on March 23, 2020, by which time we were already ordered to work from home. I met them at the interview, but since then, they have been boxes on a screen. In mid-June we gathered for lunch at Agua Verde. 

Some of my wonderful co-workers on the UW News team enjoying lunch at Agua Verde. They were just as nice in person as they are on screen.

We wanted to check out Saint Bread, the new bakery near Agua Verde, but it’s closed on Mondays, the day we were there. Thinking about Saint Bread was a good reminder that new places have opened in the neighborhood since the beginning of the pandemic. There are new places to explore! Chris, Penny and I did check out BB.Q Chicken, the new Korean fried chicken place that opened summer last year. There is also a new Japanese place, Tanuki Izakaya, further up on the Ave. I’m excited to check it out, but I’m waiting until I can eat there in person; they are still takeout-only.

A couple blocks south of Tanuki, but still north of NE 50th St. is Village Sushi, which has become my favorite sushi place.

Penny closed her eyes in pure bliss as she chomped down on some sushi at Village Sushi

Penny and I visited Village Sushi while Chris was out of town. She asked for sushi, so we headed there before catching a movie. The sushi is delicious, but a highlight is the tatsutage, the fried chicken (on the left in the picture). They had limited capacity, but we sat at a table near the door. Feeling the breeze and fresh air really added to my summer mood.

The spread at Korean Tofu House — it’s just not the same getting it takeout!

Most recently — last week — we went to Korean Tofu House. As I wrote about in Eater Seattle, there is an underappreciated Korean food scene in the U District, and Korean Tofu House is my favorite. I’ve been craving the savory soft tofu soup that is their specialty. As we sat down, Chris noted that he was the only white person there. It’s good for Penny to be in environments where she isn’t in the minority. I certainly felt more Korean just being there, seeing the Asian people around me and eating the heart-warming food. Food has been such an important way for me to connect with my culture — a culture I didn’t grow up in as a Korean adoptee.

I’m trying to savor the summer, and I have mixed feelings about returning to the office. I've enjoyed the flexibility I’ve gotten from working from home and the extra time with family. But walking around the U District, I feel more in touch with what I’ll gain by coming back to work. I’m excited to walk these streets again as part of my daily routine — to stick my head into bookstores and check out the many places I still haven’t been, to feel that connection with people you get by sharing their space.

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Golden original chicken, BB.Q Chicken

BB.Q Chicken is a popular Korean chain, and BB.Q stands for “best of the best quality,” not barbecue. It’s fried in olive oil, and the company’s recipes are tested in a magical place called Chicken University. The same chain used to be up the same street, and I went once with co-workers. Graffiti adorned the entrance. Inside, there were huge pictures of Korean couples caressing chicken - Korean soap opera meets comfort food. My friends were skeptical about the olive oil and concept and decor, and we spent much of the time cracking jokes. It was empty, and it eventually closed. 

So imagine my surprise when it reemerged early this fall in a space that once was a Radio Shack - space and business upgraded, rebranded and resurrected from obscurity. We huddled around the menu stand, trying to figure it out. There were half and whole chickens and wings that came in varieties, starting at golden original chicken with sauce options, like honey garlic, cheesling (huh?), secret spicy, gang jeong - a Korean word unfamiliar to me. Since I’m Korean, but adopted, I felt a jolt of sadness and embarrassment seeing something Korean with no clue about what it means. 

The woman behind the counter suggested our family of three get a whole chicken, which amounts to 20 pieces. That seemed like a lot, but I went with her suggestion. Finally, we landed on our order: original whole chicken with honey garlic and gang jeong on the side. I was surprised when she said the order would take 25 minutes - not your typical takeout. 

Tired and hangry, we got home and opened the box to find chicken so crispy it was cartoonish. The bird, cut into pieces, was small, the recommendation to get a whole one proven right. I dipped a leg into the gang jeong and took a bite. It was savory, sweet like honey, and it wasn’t greasy, saving us from belly aches. The breading didn’t have much flavor and tasted odd on its own. Sauce is essential, I learned. Next time I’ll get it with the sauce on, not on the side. I understood what was missing the first time I tried it. We ended up having leftovers but ate more than half.

“I wish we knew how to make this so we could have it more,” Penny said. “I like that it’s small pieces, but it’s substantial - more than popcorn chicken,” Chris added. You can have a meal you love from your favorite Thai place anytime. A meal that’s a total surprise? A fried chicken renaissance? That’s a meal to remember.

Whole chicken: $24.99 Sauces: $.99 each

[eatingtheave]

119. BB.Q Chicken

4223 University Way NE

We came to the U District to get Thai food. But when Penny saw the sandwich board for BB.Q Chicken, the newest Korean fried chicken place in a neighborhood with several, she insisted we get it instead. With the isolation of online school, she deserved a treat. Don’t we all?

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My takeout pledge + the new version of “working lunch”

I read that restaurants in the U District are suffering - with business down 70% to 90% - so I made a pledge: I’m going to get takeout there once a week. I chose Thai Tom for next Thursday and counted the days until I’d get my little taste of Bangkok street food - the first time in five months. Thursday came along, and I saw I had meetings at 11 AND noon. OK, I thought, that’s tight but let’s make this happen. If the first meeting ends at 11:30, it can work. 

When it got going, co-worker Tom, menschy and no nonsense, was making good time - this Tom was going to make my visit to the other Tom possible. I got antsy when co-workers asked questions. Didn’t they realize I had an order of mouth-watering food waiting? I bailed and jumped into the car, determined to experience this hot-off-the-wok nostalgia again.

My phone’s maps app said I’d be there in 11 minutes, and it was 11:45. The highway went by quick, then blocks of traffic and stop lights lay ahead. When I turned on to the Ave it was 11:57. “Running late, start without me!” I messaged. It’s a new job, but it’s ok to be late to a lunchtime meeting, right? I parked a half-block away and passed by spots that were like old friends - the same, I guess, but without the vibrancy of the good ol’ days. 

The guy handed me my order and said “$47 please.” I panicked - it had been so long that I had forgotten the price. Thai Tom is cash-only - did I have that much? I counted my bills and gave a sigh of relief. I had just enough, to the dollar. The green I had from my daughter’s lemonade stand saved me.

I hurried back home, trying to listen to the meeting while dodging the pedestrians that still dotted the streets. I made a quick delivery to my new co-worker and neighbor, who was even newer as a friend. When I finally sat down for the meeting, I couldn’t wait. Everybody else was listening and talking respectfully, seemingly forgetting that it’s lunchtime. I was not that strong. I snuck a bite and watched my face on Zoom slowly chewing the food, fooling myself that it was more discreet. 

The pad see ew noodles were firm, not gloppy, greasy or oversauced, with the smoky flavor of the wok. The vegetables were perfectly tender-crisp - soft yet firm enough to reveal sweetness and carmelization. Usually I’m at the counter, eating quickly to free up my spot. Now I took it in slowly, forced by my circumstances to savor it one slow bite at a time.

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Support U District medical staff and local businesses

Hello from my personal socially distant bubble to yours! I hope you are all hanging in there. This week, I got a link to this GoFundMe raising money to support UW health care workers and U District businesses. Donations go directly toward the purchase of lunches by U District businesses for the UW medical staff. I was happy to donate - both to support workers on the frontlines and the restaurants who are feeding them. 

UW Medicine has a list of restaurants that are donating food, and it includes several U District restaurants: BB’s Teriyaki, Cedars Restaurant, Thaiger Room and Wann Yen/Mark Thai Food Box. If it weren’t for the donations to the GoFundMe, the restaurants would be paying for the meals out of their funds. My donation not only acknowledges the work of workers on the front lines and the restaurants already feeding them - but also helps make sure those businesses can make it through this crisis.

The Seattle Sketcher, a weekly feature from the Seattle Times, recently featured the work of Ellen Kuwana, who is coordinating donations to the UW staff, and a donation from Mark Thai Food Box. Owner Mark Pinkaow has also been tweeting about his work to support health care workers. 

When I fantasize about being back in the world, I picture myself strolling down the Ave on a breezy but warm spring day, watching the people walk by and the activity in the storefronts. This is the U District of my memories. I am an introvert, but I am meant to be out in the world - I live in the city for a reason, I told my husband. My mind needs the stimuli of people, colors, smells, change and the unexpected.

Who knows when I will be roaming the U District regularly again - all signs indicate that it will be a long time until UW staff returns to work. I worry about the restaurants I love, which are predominantly owned by women, immigrants and people of color. I celebrate the cultures and perspectives I get a peek into through these businesses. They offer so many gifts but are among the most vulnerable. Without their clientele of UW students and staff, how will they survive? Who is still around to remember them and fight for them? The transient community of the U District is its greatest asset and what may hurt it the most. It contributes to the dynamic nature of the community, but it’s harder for a base to take root.

If you are reading this, it’s because you care about U District restaurants too. Will you join me in supporting U District medical staff and local businesses with a $10 donation? Or get takeout from your favorite U District spot. Here is a list of restaurants offering takeout or delivery.

[eatingtheave]

Support the U District

Last Thursday, I got takeout from Wann Yen/Mark’s Thai Food Box, the in-house and prepackaged Thai food businesses run by Picha and Mark Pinkaow out of a storefront on 43rd, near light rail construction. I’ve written a lot about how much I love this business, and I often namecheck it when asked about my favorite restaurant in the U District. 

There are so many reasons why I love it. The ka praw gai and kao mun gai are among my favorite dishes in the U District. The place reminds me a lot of Thailand - I spent about two months there in 2007. In Thailand, most of my dining experiences were street food, streetside pop-ups or small eateries, the decor of which Wann Yen references with a floor-to-wall picture of a Thai market on one of its walls - so different from a generic Buddist sculpture you’d find in a typical Thai restaurant. Mark and Picha are both so warm, capturing the spirit of the Land of Smiles.

That’s why I cried when Picha told me they were closing for two weeks starting on March 30.

“See the sweatshirt?” she said, pointing to the message across her chest that read, “Is it the weekend yet?” She and Mark get their ingredients at Pike Place Market every morning, which puts them at risk when it’s just not worth it anymore given the economics of coronavirus. The day before they had only had three orders. 

The guy next door left at 5 the day before, three hours earlier than usual, she explained, referring to Cedars Middle Eastern. She pointed out that Kai’s Bistro and Lounge was closed and had boards inside the windows (which doesn’t protect the building that much). The waterworks came when she said that I was one of their favorite customers. I wanted to tell them how much I appreciated, not only the good food, but the spirit that the place embodies - that they embody. But as I struggled to get the words out, the tears came, once again highlighting the gap between what we feel and what we can express.

These small businesses capture what I love about the U District. Each has its own story, representing the will, vision and special gift of its owners. They are the ultimate underdogs, often run by and employing women, people of color and immigrants and offering up delicious and unique food - open and welcoming to all, with no pretense. 

That’s why my friend Dan and I created the Facebook group Support the U District. We have to rally and make sure that these businesses are not forgotten! I started this blog to document the variety of joys you can find in a neighborhood that too many people forget once they leave college. These businesses have meant a lot to me personally, as I wrote about in Eater Seattle, and expose me to new adventures, culinary and otherwise. Browse the blog to remind yourself of what is worth saving and please get takeout and please join!

[eatingtheave]

Takeout from Cedars

Today I had a meeting of my unit’s Racial Equity Committee, a team that I co-lead for about a year and a half. It’s a team that is really special to me. We’ve talked about tough topics and brainstormed ways to make a difference in our organization - they are my peeps! 

One of the members suggested that we get takeout and share a meal together. I thought through where I wanted to order food from - I knew it had to be the U District. I thought about getting more Thai food, but decided on the Indian restaurant Cedars on 50th and Brooklyn. I had heard that they had shown kindness to some of the people in need in the neighborhood, so I wanted to support them with my order. As it turned out, they had an easy online order form. I ordered palak paneer and butter chicken and included a 20 percent tip (more than I usually would leave for takeout) as a show of support.

The food was ready right on time. I brought my daughter Penny, and the man working there offered her a free mango lassi and me a free chai. This act of kindness warmed my heart, and I interpreted it as thanks for my business (and perhaps the tip). Giving gifts and receiving gifts is good for the soul. It makes us feel connected to others, a feeling that we are in short supply of during the days of quarantine. 

We also went to Safeway, which is right across the street from Cedars, to pick up some grocery store sushi - Penny’s favorite. In February, Safeway began giving out pieces for their Monopoly game. Based on what we bought, we were due to receive one piece. He gave us about 10 - another small act of kindness. This was really helpful when we were home, and I needed something to occupy Penny while I was on a conference call.

I had stopped in that same Safeway on Monday morning. As I was checking out, I saw one man slap another. Ends up that the slapper was an employee who was defending himself from a shoplifter whom he’d confronted. The slappee walked out and then returned saying, to the slapper and another employee, that he was going to “kick your ass.” My checker explained that this kind of thing happens all the time. “They don’t pay us enough,” she sighed. I can’t imagine what it would be like to have to deal with shoplifters and the like, alongside the anxious environment created by coronavirus shoppers. 

I opened the Seattle Times this morning to find a story on this exact topic. “Grocery-store workers are on the front line, just like health care workers,” said Sarah Cherin with UFCW 21. I couldn’t agree more.

[eatingtheave]

Dispatches from the U District in the era of coronavirus

I’ve been watching how coronavirus has absolutely devastated our Seattle community from my home in Greenwood. When toilet paper started flying off the shelves, I was one of those people who sat back and laughed at how much people were freaking out - I couldn’t fathom that people’s worst fears would come true. But here we are, isolated in our homes, businesses, the economy and all our futures in jeopardy. 

I joined a group on Facebook called Support the ID - Community United - formed to celebrate the businesses that make Chinatown-International District special and bolster them in the wake of Governor Inslee’s order to close all restaurants and bars on Sunday, March 15. I wondered how my dear U District was doing, which like the ID, features small businesses owned by immigrants, women and people of color, a subject I got to explore in my UW Magazine feature on the neighborhood. 

I had the chance to check it out when I went into the office on Monday, March 16. Little is more comforting to me than phad see ew from Thai Tom. The heart wants what the heart wants, and I needed that dish. When I walked up to the neighborhood’s Thai food favorite, I found this sign.

My friend and I wandered down the Ave, still determined to get some Thai food. We ended up at Thaiger Room, where we submitted our takeout order and witnessed the new reality for Seattle’s businesses. It was like watching restaurant work in slow motion. The cook hustling in the kitchen over the hot wok was a contrast to the man who had nothing to do but wait to package the order for Uber Eats delivery. Usually he’d be taking and serving orders, running credit cards through the machine and showing people to their tables. The empty chairs and tables were a reminder of how it was meant to be. Still, it took us a good 20 minutes to get our order, which I hope was a sign that their takeout business was bustling. 

Later, I dropped by Wann Yen, one of my favorite restaurants. Owner Mark Pinkaow said that the Thai restaurants were working together to coordinate deliveries. These businesses, perhaps rivals in other eras, are collaborating in order to survive.

After I was done at the office, I parked my car at 45th and the Ave and walked down the street to get a feel for where things stood for the neighborhood’s businesses. The pace was languid, like the neighborhood in the dead of summer at 10 a.m. You could yell down one block and be heard on the next, jaywalk with no threat of being barreled over by a car. Most businesses were still open, with Uber Eats or GrubHub stickers on their doors. Look through the door or window and you’d find the staff sitting inside waiting for something to happen, shadowy figures whose movement indicated that yes, they were indeed open. Absent the hustle and bustle of people going in and out, I wasn’t quite sure so I had to crane my neck or stand on tippy toes to make sure.

I’m in touch with the U District Partnership, a nonprofit that represents the neighborhood’s business and community interests. I’ll be working with them on collecting more information on the neighborhood’s businesses and sharing them here. But rest assured: U District businesses are still open! And THEY NEED OUR SUPPORT. Visit them, get takeout, use the apps. Tip big! Working together as a community, not just frightened people huddled up at home like that damn virus and all existential threats want us to be, we’ll get through this.

[eatingtheave]

Goat masala burger, Burger Hut

Yes, I ate a goat masala burger. I cannot believe this exists, but I am happy I got to experience it! I walked in hoping to get a chicken masala burger. Along with your typical burger offerings, you can also find a paneer masala, lentil and falaffel burger on the main menu. Goat was a special, and I had to try it. 

When I ordered it, the man behind the counter asked what spice level I wanted. I asked my typical awkward question of “how spicy is your spicy?” Luckily he knew what I meant, because he said that it was very spicy and told me he can only handle medium. As it turns out the burger did have enough spice to just pleasantly set my mouth on fire. The strips of goat weren’t as messy to eat as they could’ve been. And if you’re unsure of goat, I’m happy to report that it was consistent with my other experience with goat, which I tried at Shalimar, the Indian restaurant that was a bedrock of the neighborhood for many years - it tasted like lamb. And the spice overpowered any distinctive flavor of the meat. 

I would gladly order this again, and I’d love to try their other Indian burgers!

Erik wanted to order something unique, but the menu was hard to figure out. It was unorganized and a bit helter skelter. He asked for advice and ended up ordering the special, which turned out to be a burger with an egg on top. He wasn’t too impressed, confirming my suspicion that, when it comes to American burgers, it is just another burger joint.

Most burgers run at under $6, but the special burger I got was more expensive.

Goat masala burger: $9.99 Addition of fries and a drink: About $3

4142 University Way NE