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SS18: In the trenches
This years fashion week saw the emergence of many new trends, but it wasn't all fresh ideas on the runway. With the spring/summer season upon us, the classic trench coat has made a comeback with an exciting new makeover. The trench coat has long been considered a wardrobe staple, something which one can simply throw on and dress it up or down in order to make it suit any look you so wish. Burberry are renowned for their signature trench coat but designers such as Valentino and Max Mara stole the limelight this year with their unique take on such a classic look.
Céline
Max Mara
Valentino
Maison Margiela
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Print vs. Digital: Can print journalism survive in a digital world?
Personally, I love a magazine. Each month I eagerly await the arrival of the latest issue of Vogue, wondering whose face will be featured on the glossy cover and what captivating treasures will be hidden inside. To me there is something incredibly satisfying about flicking through the pages of a glossy magazine, catching an essence of that freshly printed smell.
Due to the vast expansion of technology the majority of magazines now have digitalised versions of their publication, with some even going online only and ditching physical copies altogether.
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Circulation of many of the popular glossy mags such as Vogue and Elle has noticeably decreased over the last few years, leaving publishers questioning whether digital copies are now what readers favour. One magazine who suffered a particularly large drop in circulation was Glamour with their circulation decreasing by 25.6%.This drop of over a quarter lead to them making the executive decision to go online first, meaning they will no longer produce monthly physical copies but instead take the publication online and printing ‘collectible’ issues twice a year. Easily accessible, more convenient, more portable- what’s not to love?
Although many are loving the growth of the digital side to journalism, others fear that the traditional roots may be lost. Journalism began as a print industry and that is how many professionals wish for it to remain. Despite the popularity of online magazines, there is still a large proportion of readers who will religiously reach for their favourite magazine each week or month or however often it is produced. Therefore, I do believe that there is still a place in the market for print journalism, however the digital age is certainly taking over so publishing houses must act fast to put strategies in place in order to keep readers regularly picking up issues of their favourite glossy mag.
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Is ‘bricks and mortar’ retail on its way out?
There is an ongoing debate as to where the future of bricks and mortar retail stands, given the constant closures we are seeing on the highstreet and the ever-growing love for online shopping.
The luxury of online shopping is that it gives the consumer the opportunity to leisurely browse in the comfort of their own home, meaning when they come to the store they know exactly what they want. This is a problem for stores as it means consumers are spending less time browsing around the shop itself. Retailers are trying to preserve the physical stores by turning them into an environment in which consumers want to spend time, rather than just dashing in to grab the item they eyed up on the website.
Stores that are online only and do not have a physical presence, such as Missguided, ASOS, boohoo and PrettyLittleThing, are thriving due to their convenience and easy access apps meaning consumers have the store at their fingertips 24/7. However, Missguided have broken this trend opening their first ever physical store suggesting that being online only is no longer enough. Having a singular flagship store brought customers flocking from every corner or the country as it was seen as a novelty to have their favourite online retailer there in the flesh.
It has been found that millennials, who currently make up the majority of the consumer population, are more likely to spend money on an experience rather than physical goods. Missguided clearly caught on to this, realising convenience isn't the most important factor for the majority of consumers. By 2020 generation Z will be the majority of shoppers, but until then I feel it remains clear that experience takes priority over convenience.
In order to preserve bricks and mortar retail it is essential for businesses to give the consumer what they want, which as it currently stands is an experience, in order to encourage them to not only visit the store but to spend a larger proportion of time there.
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FA4006: ‘WELCOME TO...’- Self-evaluation (500 words)
How does PR influence me (sub-consciously and consciously; need / desire; emotional influence) and what have i learnt?
At the start of this assignment I was completely naïve to just how great an influence PR has on the day to day life of individuals and the way in which one behaves as a consumer.
I feel that in order to understand PR, you must first understand the way it affects you personally and the influence it has within your life. Being made to reflect on the way PR consciously and sub-consciously influences me at the start of the brief really helped me to cement in my knowledge what PR truly means.
I came to the understanding that PR is the way in which organisations, companies and individuals communicate with the public, more specifically their target audience, and the media. This can be both direct and indirect but ultimately it serves to build a strong relationship between the business and the target audience. It is clear that in order for a business or venture to succeed they must have a strong PR behind them.
Breaking down the brief into manageable chunks enabled me to get a clearer view of what was being asked and helped me start to structure and plan how I was going to work. As a proactive individual, I felt that organising my independent study time would be imperative to my success in this brief.
Each week, it became clearer to me what PR really is and how it relates to everyday life and businesses, the Bowes Museum in particular. PR is about creating impressions and evoking emotions; exactly what Bowes is trying to change about the museum in order to attract a new audience. First impressions are strong and lasting, and good, strategical PR will ensure that visitor’s walk away with a plethora of positive thoughts in their mind. Putting PESO, PEST and SWOT into action in relation to Bowes taught me just how broad PR is and all the different things which a PR must consider and analyse before developing strategies or making any major decisions. Before this brief I was unaware of PESO, the various forms of media which relate to PR, so studying this helped deepen my understanding of the different areas that come under the umbrella of PR.
I now feel hypersensitive to the goings on around me. When I am heading to a morning lecture and feel compelled to visit the Starbucks in the business building for a much-needed morning caffeine boost I now realise it is not simply because I want a coffee but because of the way the business has sold that concept to me. PR turns businesses into a need not just a want, making consumers believe that they must invest in order to gain a sense of self-fulfilment.
Going forwards in the brief, the professional feel of both my presentation and press pack is key to demonstrating the mature and logical approach I have taken with this work. Although punctuality and thorough commitment has been a strength, I feel my work could be further strengthened through greater primary analysis and broader research.
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H&M: Leading the way to a more sustainable future for high-street fashion
With the fashion idustry being the second biggest pollutant in the world, primarily due to the harmful chemicals involved in cotton farming and polyester production, it is paramount that the fashion industry find a more sustainable way to exist. One of the major problems currently is the hype of fast fashion, the way the consumer constantly wants new trends as soon as they see them off the run way and feel the need to update their wardrobe almost weekly.
High street stores are the perfect place to get our fast fashion fix as their affordable but on trend pieces allow you to feasibly keep up with all the latest fads and crazes without breaking the bank. As a high-street retailer themselves, you would assume H&M would advocate the fast fashion hype, however they are actually one of the leading pioneers in securing a more sustainable future for the fashion industry.
“Our size, scale and influence mean we have both a responsibility to do the right thing and an opportunity to create real lasting change.”
- Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability
They clearly outline on their website their main ambitions by way of improving sustainability:
H&M aim to move forward from a linear production model to a circular one which involves reusing old materials and products. It has become apparent that the industry is too reliant on natural resources so by making use of old products to create new desired fashion this will have positive consequences in both the long and short term. In the short term it will prevent clothing and fabrics from ending up dumped in landfill sites whilst in the long run reducing the need for extracting natural resources from the planet.
Their bid to become a more environmentally friendly company goes beyond simply using sustainable materials. The company has stretched their sustainability policies across the tenure organisation and formed a code of conduct, their Sustainability Commitment, which must be adhered to. By 2040, they aim to be climate positive throughout their entire company.
H&M really are making tracks in the way of building a sustainable future for fashion, and this begs the question- which high street store will be next to follow suit?
Sources: http://about.hm.com/en/about-us.html
http://www.sgtgroup.net/textile-quality-management-blog/what-does-the-future-of-sustainable-fashion-look-like
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5 must-follow fashion illustration accounts on Instagram
One of Instagram’s latest features which allows you to follow whole hashtags really has been a game changer. By simply following the hashtag #fashionillustration, immediately hundreds of different accounts start appearing in my feed without me having to trawl through and individually find them myself. This is a great way of discovering new accounts that otherwise may not have been on your radar. Here are my current favourite fashion illustration accounts that the aforementioned hashtag brought to my attention;
1. @miss_victoria25
Inspired by Parisian couture, this account is a must follow for any fashion princesses who can’t help but pine after that fairytale dream.
2. @diarysketcheslk
With big clients such as Balmain and Net-a-porter onboard, this account takes inspiration from the fashion week runways then turns them into striking art work. Due to it’s following of the fashion weeks this account is constantly up to date with the latest trends fresh off the runway, and is constantly filling your feed with often much needed inspo.
3. @emmakennyillustrations
This clever creative combines fashion and pop-culture, turning the latest celebrity moments in the industry into beautiful hand-crafted art. Like Keeping Up With The Kardashian’s? Then you should definitely give this account a follow.
4. @ponyy_boyy
Combining fashion and Disney princesses with the world of celebrity, this New York illustrator truly is on to something. What more could a Disney obsessed fashionista want than seeing their favourite Disney OG’s rocking the latest runway looks?
5. @hnicholsillustration
As an admirer of the exquisite work of Elie Saab myself, I couldn’t help but fall in love with this account. Highlighting the elegance and glamour of the most breathtaking gowns, these illustrations truly are captivating.
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Preserving heritage: Harris Tweed
With technologies forever changing and the manufacturing industry constantly evolving, it becomes difficult for brands to keep their true heritage running through the brand from the production process to the final product, but a brand that manages to do this impeccably well is Harris tweed.
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The islanders of the Outer Hebredies have been known for centuries to produce luxury cloth by hand which over the years became simply known as Harris tweed. Initially trade of this cloth remained restricted to local markets but then the business boomed, gaining a very prestigious reputation and becoming highly sought after by those in the highest of social circles.
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Harris tweed is a highly protect cloth and even has its own Act of Parliament which was introduced in. Mark Hogarth, the creative director of Harris Tweed, stated that “It cannot be Harris Tweed unless it satisfies the criteria”. The aforementioned criteria are as follows:
- It must be made using virgin wool
- It has to be made in the Outer Hebredies
- It has to be made in the home of the weaver
It is this criteria which makes Harris Tweed a very exclusive and high-quality product. It is clear that each and every one of the Harris Tweed team members, from directors to weavers, are truly dedicated and passionate about the product and how it represents their corner of the world. Harris Tweed worked in collaboration with the Common Wealth games and as part of this they created a short film about the company, which you can watch below.
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I feel the film truly highlights the passion and drive that goes into each yarn, each cloth, each product and that is reflected in the genuine quality of the brand. In keeping the production of the Harris tweed exclusively in the Hebredies it preserves the heritage of the product, which is a very lovely and emotionally engaging quality for a company to have.
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Burberry stands with the LGBTQ+ community
London Fashion week saw Christopher Bailey unveil his final collection for Burberry, which he dedicated to the LGBT community by way of showing support and celebrating diversity. The collection sees the introduction of what the company is calling #therainbowcheck, a new take on Burberry’s signature chequered print.
Image: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/burberry-christopher-bailey-lgbt-final-show
Not only does Burberry’s new collection raise awareness for the LGBTQ+ community but the company has also announced that they shall be supporting three LGBTQ+ charities; The Albert Kennedy trust, The International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex association and The Trevor project.
Image: http://www.luxurylondon.co.uk/image/burberry-london-fashion-week-february-2018-61225540.jpg/688/0
This show made a huge impact, with many celebrities taking to social media to express their support for Christopher Bailey’s bold and final venture with Burberry using the aforementioned hashtag, #therainbowcheck, showing their support for the designer’s stance. Bailey said that ‘there has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity’. This campaign really highlighted just how great a political force fashion can be, able to spread a message and gain awareness.
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5 effects Brexit is set to have on the fashion industry
The decision to leave the EU following the referendum on 23rd June 2016 left the UK fashion industry shaken and filled with uncertainty as people pondered just what this would mean for the future of fashion. This uncertainty lead to the fear of the following negative consequences.
1. Devaluation of the pound
The pound hit a seven year low against the dollar meaning companies who outsource production could face difficulties. In this case, a weaker pound would see a serious increase in production costs.
2. Increase in clothing prices
The increase in production costs means that companies will be forced to spend more in order to produce the same number of products. Consequently, to continue making a profit they will then have to charge more for the final product. This is then likely to affect the behaviour of consumers, especially given that consumer spending was already on the decline before the news of the leave decision broke.
3. Free trade
The future of free trade hangs in the balance after the referendum with the possibility of increased taxation and fees as well as greater restrictions making trade with UK based companies less appealing to foreign investors. This could consequently hinder a company’s growth.
4. A loss of talent
Many British designers employ foreign talents or have ateliers abroad who do this for them, therefore European citizens losing the freedom to live and work in Britain and British citizens losing the right to live and move freely in Europe is set to cause serious complications for many companies and damage carefully created business structures.
5. Loss of funding for educational fashion institutions
London fashion schools have received millions of pounds in funding granted by the European Regional Development Fund, supporting initiatives that encourage innovation in the industry. Without involvement in the EU this funding would be cut, and it would also become harder for international students to study fashion in the UK.
As a strong supporter of the remain campaign myself I am in agreement with the 90% of fashion designers who intended to vote to stay in the EU due to the great benefits it brings to the fashion industry. I believe the factors outlined above will be a heavy blow to the industry, but the British Fashion council aim to lay out demands and negotiate with the government in order to keep damage minimal. At the time of the referendum I was too young to vote, leaving myself and my peers in a vulnerable positon unable to have a say in order to do best by the industry in which we intend to build our careers. This begs the question, if a higher proportion of generation Z were able to have their say would the outcome have been different?
Sources: www.fashionunited.uk
www.businessoffashion.co.uk
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Le Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture: Fashions most exclusive club
To be categorised under the umbrella of haute couture is the dream of designers world-wide, but simply putting the word ‘couture’ in front of a new collection is not enough. Some designers see the word couture as a form of description to add a sense of luxury to a garment however this is not how the industry works. Couture is not an adjective but a specific industry within itself. The classification of Haute Couture is a much sought-after privilege which must be earnt.
This level of exclusivity intrigues me, calling into question just what makes these garments so extraordinary. Haute couture is the creation of exclusive, high quality, custom fitted garments. Couturier Charles Worth established the first haute couture house in Paris aimed at catering for the needs and desires of the upper-class woman. Then, in 1868, it was decided that haute couture was too precious to be left unprotect in the industry so ‘Le Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture’ was established in order to act as a safeguard. This ‘private members club’ aspect reinforced just how exclusive these fashion houses were. To earn the right to be named a couture house was subject to meeting specific requirements which were outlined as follows in 1945:
- Designs must be made-to-order for private clients with at least one fitting
- Each atelier must have a minimum of 20 members of staff
- Each season the couture house must present a collection of at least 35 runs with both day time and evening wear to the Paris Press
It is the above restrictions that cause couture to be an extremely exclusive segment of the fashion market, with only a select few designers making the cut.
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How PR influences me
Like most people, I’m a sucker for a good advert. A TV campaign, a billboard in a shopping centre, a magazine article, social media posts; I can’t help but be drawn in by the excitement of a shiny new product release. Urban decay is always a brand that excite me most with their new product releases. Their original naked palette has been a make-up bag staple for me ever since I first fell in love with makeup with its wearable neutral tones and easy to blend formula, so all it takes is a Instagram post popping up in my feed telling me about the s latest addition to the ‘Naked’ range and immediately I feel the need to have it in my ever growing collection. Interestingly, the naked palettes are incredibly similar with little changing from palette to palette however Urban decay still manage to up-sell the product and convince shopaholics like myself that we could not live without their latest venture.
For me this really highlights just how great a hold PR has over the buying habits of our generation and the way they can use the mediums which we tap into the most, such as Instagram and twitter, to connect with our lifestyle and develop their PR strategies accordingly to shape our behaviour as consumers so that it coincides with the best interest and aims of their brand. It fascinates me how the way brands shape their communication with customers can affect buying habits in such a big way. The foundation of a successful product is a strong PR campaign not only upon its release, but also in the run up to the release date. ‘Coming soon’ posts, short films or adverts build up a great anticipation and excitement for the arrival of a new product so when it is released you find consumers racing to buy it, eager to be the first to say they own this specific item.
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When the question of how PR influences me was first raised I initially felt as though it did not have such a great impact upon my buying habits and the things I need or want. However, when I began to explore the question I discovered that PR actually holds great influence over my behaviour as a consumer and that the things I think I need are not actual necessities, but I am made to feel that way through the influence of cleverly designed campaigns which appear regularly with news of a new product. Evidently, the effects of PR are predominantly subconscious leaving consumers susceptible to their influence through the constant everyday exposure which works in the favour of the brands providing they have their strategy right.
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