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[hamsterhusbandry]

[i am uk based so will be talking about uk products]

a cage or enclosure for your hamster is by far the most important choice you’re going to make for your new pet and also the place where a large amount of people go very wrong!

| S I Z E |

the bigger the better! if you have the space and money, please go for the largest size cage you can for your hamster.

the absolute minimum cage size i would recommend for all hamster species is 650 square inches, but please aim for bigger!

my syrian lives in a detolf, coming in at approximately 950 square inches, and having kept a syrian in that size cage, could not imagine keeping one anywhere smaller. and so around 1000 square inches is definitely my personal minimum.

| I M P O R T A N T  F E A T U R E S |

as big a floorspace as possible. height, levels and external tubes are NOT a replacement for continuous floorspace.

hamsters are not climbing animals and excessive height and levels are actually dangerous. when adding platforms to a cage you should always ensure the height is not excessive and there are other items to reduce the height of the drop.

cages with tubes are useless at best and dangerous at worst. the tubes are too small for syrians and bend at extreme angles causing damage to hamsters’ spines. the ventilation is also very poor in them and hamsters often choose to nest in them meaning food, pee and breathing hamster all stuck in a very small plastic non-breathable tube.

a cage should always provide a big enough base or enough height to add an appropriate amount of bedding aka at least 15cm. a barred cage with too shallow a tray or a tank style cage without enough height for 15cm of bedding plus a 30cm wheel (for example) are not suitable.

safe and well ventilated. bars should be narrowly spaced, lids and openings should be secure, there should be enough ventilation in tank style or diy cages

| B A R R E D  C A G E S |

a limited number of appropriately sized barred cages do exist to buy in the uk, with a few even available in chain pet shops e.g. the savic plaza hamster and rat cage (not suitable for rats though), available at pets at home (50cm x 100cm x 50cm). there are also quite a few available to order online on zooplus. 

positives

good access to your hamster, with large front opening doors particularly useful

easy to attach and use hanging toys

well ventilated

negatives

limits on bedding depth (the cages i recommend still allow for approx 16/17cm)

from what i read, it seems appropriate sized barred cages are a rarity in the usa, especially without modification, so this is definitely european focused and most the decent sized barred cages i see are available on zooplus. 

| T A N K  S T Y L E  C A G E S |

fish tanks are a straightforward option but can be very expensive in the uk when bought new in an appropriate size. they can be found much cheaper secondhand on sites like preloved and ebay, especially if they have a problem holding water which wouldn’t be a problem for us. 

companies such as junglepets do sell tanks specially designed for small animals, they also provide a customisation service and will make tanks to your own preferred dimensions

some tank style cages are also sold as hamster cages by pet suppliers such as zooplus

the ikea detolf is also a popular tank style option and the cage i myself currently use so i am happy to answer any questions about using it. it does require some diy to make it useable for hamsters and it has some limitations but is the cheapest way of getting such a large cage.

positives

allow you to provide very deep bedding providing enough room for even syrians to burrow

more aesthetically pleasing and give a great view of your hamster, especially burrowing. buried tunnels and chambers can also be fun to experiment with. 

very easy to change layout and an infinite amount of options on how to use the space

glass is more escape proof if you have a houdini especially a hamster who chews plastic trays of barred cages

negatives

more difficult to attach water bottles/platforms/hanging toys

only have access to your hamster from above which can make taming more difficult so i recommend the hamster is moved to a more accessible area for taming

less well ventilated than a barred cage, ideally the lid should be almost entirely mesh to allow maximum ventilation 

can be heavy and difficult to move

| D I Y  C A G E S |

bin cages made from modified storage boxes are the most commonly found diy cage and have become a popular option for people trying to cheaply upgrade an inappropriate cage. a bin of a good size and depth, especially for a syrian, is very hard to find in the uk and the ones that are are much more expensive than you would think. while they still can be a good option, especially in countries with limited options, i personally think there are better and easier options in the uk

there is obviously an infinite amount of possibilities for diy cages! if you are very handy or have a handy friend or relative who would like to help you, a made from scratch diy cage could be the best possible option! it can be made as big as you like and have all the features you want! be sure to check what materials (e.g. wood or glue) is safe for use with hamsters

| C A G E  C H E C K L I S T |

✔ meets minimum size requirements (using internal measurements) ✔  if barred, bar spacing of < 1 cm for syrians ranging to < 8mm for robos ✔  has enough depth to add a suitable amount of substrate (15cm) ✔  has enough height for a suitable wheel ✔  allows sufficient ventilation ✔ if not provided with the cage, a lid that prevents escape

| U N S U I T A B L E   C A G E S |

| S U I T A B L E   O P T I O N S |

(i have tried to provide internal dimensions where possible)

detolf (roughly 950 sq inches / 6080 sq cms) ⇨ what i currently use so will answer any questions i can! :) ⇨ a really good size, especially for dwarves! ⇨ relatively inexpensive option (currently £60) ⇨ have to make a lid ⇨ limited height (about 35cms), only just fits a 30cm wheel with no substrate underneath so you have to plan the space carefully ⇨ available from ikea

living world eco habitat ⇨ available in medium (890 sq inches / 5760 sq cms) and large (1440 sq inches / 9300 sq cms) ⇨ quite expensive (£140-£200) ⇨ great sizes, especially the large. the large is the only cage ive seen that i would personally consider upgrading to. ⇨ ready prepared cage thats quick and easy to assemble but some modifications might be needed such as meshing the ventilation holes in the lid ⇨ easy to transport with wheels on the base ⇨ mainly made of wood including the base, may be a problem with chewers or with liquid reaching the base. they sell liners especially designed for use with the cage but other options could be used. with enough bedding and toys syrians will likely be able to reach the lid and could chew that also. airholes in the sides of the cage may also be a problem with chewers. ⇨ available from zooplus (uk)

barney (779 sq inches / 5050 sq cms) ⇨ not too expensive (£60-£70) ⇨ narrow 7mm bar spacing, good for dwarves ⇨ 16cm tray ⇨ some decent wooden accessories included ⇨ available from zooplus (uk)

alexander (820 sq inches / 5250 sq cms) ⇨ similar to barney but bit more expensive (around £80) ⇨ 17cm tray ⇨ a lot of wooden accessories and platforms included, including three houses of suitable sizes for a syrian ⇨ available from zooplus (uk)

savic plaza (780 sq inches / 5000 sq cm) ⇨ the only good option ive found available from a large chain pet shop in the uk ⇨ medium price range (£75) ⇨ comes with accessories but unfortunately most are unsuitable (the wheel and house are both too small, the platform and ramp are both not of great quality and would be best replaced) ⇨ 16cm tall base so allows an okay depth of bedding if completely filled ⇨ large front opening door so great access to your hamster ⇨ available from pets at home (uk)

plus large fishtanks and diy cages!

(this post obviously doesnt cover all suitable cages i just covered a selection of a few im most familiar with! and of course always do your own research from various sources (e.g. forums, youtube, tumblr) and gather opinions before reaching a decision for yourself!)

[hamsterhusbandry]

Hey, not sure if this is the place to ask but recently I put my syrian in a bin cage and she likes to constantly climb on top of her hides and bite the ventilation holes. She frequently falls off her hides while reaching for the holes but I can't exactly remove them to keep her from doing it. I have plenty of enrichment so I'm not sure what to do. Any advice would be appreciated.

hey! im sorry ur having trouble!

obviously double check everything in your cage, that the wheel is the right size and the enrichment and hides appropriately sized, a big open bottom house, plenty of cover, deep bedding and interesting things to do etc!

i had a problem with my male syrian climbing on top of a house and chewing the very corner of the bar at the top of the detolf, at first i tried blocking the area. i wedged a woven grass ball in the corner so he couldnt get to the bar and he shredded the ball in a few nights. so i decided to just completely rearrange my cage with a new set up. i got a labyrinth house and bought lots of new things for him and gave him something completely different (obviously same bedding/hoard/nest) i also put his wheel in the corner he was chewing. and since then he hasnt chewed anything not even once even though he has access to 90% of those bars. but his behaviour was focused on one particular area so that might not be helpful to you!

the most obvious solution is usually to upgrade the cage. female syrians tend to be very active, much more than males and it might just be she isnt happy with the space she has. depending on the dimensions of ur bin there might be much better options out there for u! that are both bigger and without so much opportunity to chew

the chewing can become a compulsion but i would try everything possible before dismissing it as unfixable!!

if you want feel free to dm me pics/details about ur cage and ill try to help if ur still struggling :-)

[hamsterhusbandry]

even when we provide cages with plentiful space and everything a hamster needs, they can still get bored or stressed! this boredom can result in distressing and harmful behaviours like bar chewing or pacing. in order to eliminate or reduce boredom, a hamster should be provided with additional enrichment. i add these to the cage on a regular basis and then remove and rotate meaning he has something new and interesting every night.

destroyable toys such as toilet paper tubes stuffed with treats and toilet paper. there are so many cool, creative ideas on the internet so have a google and look for diy toys which you can make.

find various edible and interesting chews and healthy treats your hamster likes! 

for example, i provide earl with... 

millet/oat/wheat sprays

dandelion root (only occasionally because he absolutely loves it and eats it in one night!)

whimzee chews

flowers/leaves from various hamster suitable forage mixes

some dehydrated fruits/veg last him a long time, a slice of dried apple lasts him a few days, but banana is gone in seconds.

just moving items round in the cage can interest your hamster! hamsters are very reliant on scent trails in their cage so you shouldn’t make big changes to layout regularly. it also depends on the individual and some hamsters become stressed when any items are moved at all but if your hamster is happy with it just swapping a tunnel for a different tunnel or swapping two items around can help with boredom

scatter feeding can be a great way to keep your hamster busy! this encourages natural foraging behaviours and keeps the hamster busy for a lot longer than just going to their bowl and filling their cheek pouches (i would recommend putting fresh food in a bowl though to avoid hygiene issues). also hiding treats around the cage is good enrichment! before i go to sleep i often hide a few sunflower or pumpkin seeds around earl’s cage so he can spend time sniffing them out and they’re always gone in the morning.

earl also spends a lot of his time making his nests. he enjoys finding and carrying his nesting materials to his house and building his nest. i never put the nesting material in his house but leave it elsewhere so he can spend time doing that himself.

out of cage play time is also very important. if your hamster is tame and happy to be out of the cage regularly, give them playpen time as often as possible. it is best to provide novel toys they don’t see very often for this time and allow them to explore and play. when you notice their behaviour changing and indicating boredom, return them to their cage.

but i would personally say the key to eliminating boredom, stress and unwanted behaviour is finding a cage set up that works for the individual hamster! earl was showing some stressed chewing behaviour in his last cage set up but i changed the layout, adding a longer unbroken area of deep bedding rather than two smaller ones and added a labyrinth house. since this change the behaviour has completely gone and he is very settled and happy! do plenty of research and make sure you’re providing absolutely everything recommended to keep your hamster happy because that is by far the most likely cause of stress in your hamster

[hamsterhusbandry]

all species of hamster must have a wheel available to them in their cages and as an essential and well used cage accessory, choosing the right one is very important! the main things to consider when choosing a wheel for your hamster are safety & size but also consider your own needs in terms of noise and ease of cleaning!

| S A F E T Y |

wire or mesh wheels are not safe for hamsters and should not be used under any circumstances, the running surface and back wall should both be closed.

if you have a long haired syrian, particularly a male, avoid wheels with a spindle as this could tangle in the hamsters coat.

check all wheels thoroughly before placing in your hamster’s cage. ensure wooden wheels have if sanded where needed and there are no sharp parts that a hamster could injure themselves on.

| S I Z E |

a hamster running on its wheel should have a straight back. if the hamster’s back is bent, the wheel is too small and will cause discomfort and spinal issues for the hamster

in general, dwarves need a wheel with a diameter of 8″-11″

in general, a syrian will need a wheel with a diameter of 12″

a wheel cannot be too big! but you must ensure it isn’t too heavy and the hamster can move the wheel freely and easily. if not, try swapping for a lighter wheel.

remember when purchasing a wheel to check the overall height of the wheel including the stand to ensure it will fit in your cage and if you will need an area with less bedding in order for it to fit.

always remember when buying a young hamster that they will probably double in size and what works for them as a baby, may not work in a few months. if unsure, go for the larger option so you don’t have to replace within a few months.

| W H A T   A B O U T   F L Y I N G   S A U C E R S ? |

i personally don’t believe a flying saucer is an adequate substitute for proper upright wheel

they can gain speed and fling hamsters off so if using be careful to place in an open area with only substrate to land on

they also encourage an unnatural running posture so are best used in small doses and not as the only exercise option

they also take up a lot of space in the cage so are not practical in most cases

if you have an extremely big cage with a lot of spare space, you could add a flying saucer as an addition to their normal wheel but monitor the hamsters usage closely and if it becomes dangerous, remove it

| R E C O M M E N D E D   W H E E L S |

trixie wooden exercise wheel (28cm for syrians) ⇨ what i currently use ⇨ natural look with cork running track ⇨ completely silent ⇨ needs a couple of coats of clear plastikote waterproofing paint for ease of cleaning, especially if you have a wheel pee’er like i do! ⇨ relatively cheap ⇨ wood wheels may not be suitable if you have a big chewer ⇨ available from zooplus (uk) and amazon (uk)

silent runner (12 inch for syrians) ⇨ more expensive but good quality and sturdy ⇨ plastic so easy to clean ⇨ completely silent ⇨ available from the sugar glider shop (uk)

trixie exercise wheel (28cm for syrians) ⇨ relatively quiet. some report rattling after a few months, others don’t ⇨ not very sturdy, not recommended for particularly large syrians (200g+) ⇨ cheap ⇨ plastic and easy to clean ⇨ available from zooplus (uk) and amazon (uk)

and of course always do your own research from various sources (e.g. forums, youtube, tumblr) and gather opinions before reaching a decision for yourself!

[hamsterhusbandry]

w e l c o m e

hi! just a little intro post before the first content is posted. i’ve set this blog up to try and create a detailed and easy to access resource for new hamster owners to educate themselves about proper hamster husbandry! 

pet care is of course quite subjective and so a lot of information will be given with my personal opinion, but is always based on a lot of research, as well as personal experience. there are many ways to do things, some are not correct but others are fine, just not what i would personally do and i stress that doesn’t mean you’re wrong if you do!!

i am in the uk and own a syrian so there will be a unavoidable focus on uk products and on syrian information, but i will always try and research dwarf alternatives to the best of my ability.

feel free to send in any questions about the blog or hamster care and i will do my best to answer! :)