haxballfan-blog

[haxballfan-blog]

JULY FAVOURITES, UPDATES AND WISHLIST

BRONX COLORS Masterclass Pro Foundation(Original packaging)It might be very premature to put this in favourites considering I only had a sample and in wrong colour (sort of), but it lasted a few uses and I was delighted with this formula every time. It's "my type" of foundation, one that looks very natural on the skin, pretty much invisible, which is what I want from foundation as I dislike the obvious look of makeup. I actually have plenty of such formulas, Bourjois Healthy Mix, Maybelline Fit me Matte + Poreless, Essence #insta perfect,… so it doesn't stand out that much, though the coverage is highest among such formulas, yet still in that light-medium or possibly medium category. It's very lightweight and the finish is skin-like, so neither matte nor dewy. I even like the scent which reminds me of Bailey's liquor. Sadly getting one of the lightest shades is proving to be a challenge, so I guess buying a full tube of this will have to wait. BRONX COLORS Boosting Hydrating ConcealerThis is very similar to the foundation and to two of my favourite concealer formulas, Maybelline The Eraser and even more to the Bourjois Radiance Reveal. It's also very natural looking on the skin, it blends like a dream and has a light-medium coverage, which for some might not be enough, but I don't like heavy formulas, especially under the eyes. I can and have been wearing this as a foundation too because I really love how natural this looks, despite having this in a shade that is too dark for me, but it adapts. Another plus is that this is one of the largest concealers in terms of quantity compared to my other concealers with 10 ml of product. REVLON Ultra HD Vinyl Lip Polish925 Birthday SuitThis was already in the last monthly favourites, though at that time I've only had it for a few days. Not surprisingly it was my most worn lip product in this month. Not only is it super comfortable, similar to Ultra HD Matte formula, which I also love, but here I'm also a big fan of the shade. This is the glossy version of Revlon's liquid lipstick, but it's thick enough that it manages to hold on the lips for quite a while, as I can still feel a layer of it after hours, even after eating an drinking, so it's actually better than lip balms and the glossy finish, for my preference, luckily settles to a more cream one in time. I'm also a big fan of the Kiss Cushions, but I didn't ended up wearing them that often because I don't find my shades suit me that well, but these two formula as some of my favourites for dry lips, while their Overtime lipstick has an outstanding staying power. DIEGO DALLA PALMA Lip Pencil80 Antique PinkTo be fair, I don't think this is the best formula I've tried, for one the staying power could be a lot better, but it's nicely soft, easy to apply all over the lips and the pencil is larger than an average lipliner (it's also a lot more expensive, which is a minus in my books). The reason it's here is because I like this colour on me. It's a medium pinky-mauve shade that finally looks like Mac's Soar lipliner does on people with a medium skin tone. If you're pale like me, then you're familiar with the struggle of trying popular shades (or dupes of those shades) that end up much darker and with different undertones on you and this shade works for pale skin tones without ending up too purple, too brown or too dark. GARNIER Ambre Solaire Ultra-Light Sensitive Face Fluid SPF50+Ambre Solaire Sensitive expert+, UV-Schutz Fluid mit Hyaluronsäure, LSF 50This is my new drugstore love. It definitely filled the void of not having such easy access to Asian sunscreens, as this is equally light and elegant on the skin as those. It has alcohol right after water, but I just don't care. This is a very liquid fluid that applies with ease on the skin even in larger amounts. There's zero white cast and not much shine when you apply it, then within minutes it's just gone on my normal-dry skin. It’s a tiny bit tacky on the skin for a while, but then in sets into a smooth, velvet primer-like finish. Despite the alcohol, my skin doesn't get tight later like it does at Etude House Sunprise fluid, which has a very similar texture. This will replace my Asian sunscreens because it's easily available everywhere here and the price isn't too bad (since it's everywhere, there are good discount options). The packaging is very thin and sleek, so perfect for carrying in pockets and it has precise nozzle that dispenses as much as you need. I should have bought this sooner, I regret now getting Lavozon one and enduring the excessive shine because this is so much nicer. GARNIER SkinActive Hydra Bomb Night Tissue MaskSkinActive Hydra Bomb Tuchmaske NachtThis was my first Garnier mask. I've always assumed these suck or at least there's not as good as Asian masks, but this was a pleasant surprise. Nivea's and Balea's were such disappointments when it comes to the sheets, but this was actually one of most comfortable ones I've used. This and Schaebens Hydrogel Pink one are my new favourites from our drugstores. It's nice to see we now have some nice options and I don't have to order online. Sheet: Not super thin, like some Asian masks have, but it was very soft and comfortable. Fit was pretty good too. The sheet alone makes this a great "treat day" pick.Essence: this has more than enough of liquid. I used the remains on the entire body. It's toner-meet-serum type of texture, so not as light as toner, yet not as thick as some serum. It feels great on the skin.Scent: Nothing special or strong. Just a light chemical scent. Effect: just a classic moisturising effect. On my skin it got a bit tight when the serum/essence dried, but not in a sense that my skin needs extra moisture, it's just the essence forming a kind of filter. It was still on my skin when I was washing my face in the morning. GARNIER Fructis Smoothing Macadamia Hair Food MaskI've already used up a Banana one, which was very decent, though I much preferred it as a leave-in product because it could leave my hair moisturised for more than a day when used as a hair mask. When I read reviews about products, I try to find such where someone say that it left their hair greasy or that they love it for their 4 b/c or 3 b/c curly hair because my hair is very thick and dry, so I look for very rich textures. This is highly rated among curly girls, it's supposed to be richer than the banana one (which I got only because they didn't have this one yet. We got it here later than banana, pomegranate and papaya.) The scent is actually the same as in the banana one, so I guess it's universal among all of these, all have this tutti-frutti scent. Texture is the same as at Banana, so this isn’t a very thick mask, but it’s also far from a thin, runny formula. It’s silicone free, which I’m not a fan off, so I add them extra later, but that’s my preference. Due to being silicone free this doesn’t have much slip when I’m rinsing it off, however, it’s nourishing enough for my dry hair. It’s not quite like Cantu, especially when it comes to long term results, but my hair was softer than when I used Dove conditioner last and overall felt nice (again La Croa, which I applied in abundance did a lot too, so I’m saying that I like this drugstore combo for my very dry hair). As a leave-in it works like the Banana one and it’s nice. It moisturises dry ends well without leaving the hair with no slip and tangled like Cantu does (which is why I've been using it on damp hair after washing only and I was looking for a similar replacement that would work on dry hair). The effect lasts only a day or so when used on dry hair, then I have to do it again. LA CROA Protect & Shine Hair Oil SprayI have the worst luck when it comes to my hair favourites because they are being consistently discontinued. Createurs de Monoi Shine Spray is the latest such product (they just stopped making all hair stuff, but kept the moisturiser and oil, which are cool), which was already a replacement for Orofluido Sahara spray. Basically both were silicone-oils in a spray, but really good ones because they were greasier than most, so great for fixing very dry hair in a pinch, plus the silicone content made them the type of oils that detangled, added shine and left the hair silicone smooth, rather than oily. I've tried Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine spray, which is great, but it's more similar to got2b Oiliscious or #Oh My Nude Tame it Softly Dry Lightweight Oil Mist, so it's much lighter than CdM or Orofluido, making it suitable for all hair types and for me it's more of a finishing product that adds the finally touches, rather than an extra boost of nourishment. So I went to Müller and checked every spray bottle that claimed had oil, checked the ingredients list which one has silicones first followed by oils and I found this. It's very similar to CdM, it's only a bit lighter, but a very worthy replacement. It does exactly the same job - detangles, nourishes, makes the hair a lot smoother and adds shine. I also noticed when I came home that this is a Croatian brand, which is nice to see. I didn't even know they had any hair brand (excluding Biobaza, which is more of a skin care brand with a few shampoos) and their other stuff looks potentially interesting, with argan oil high one the list. Their keratin serum caught my eye too. I air dried my hair after using Fructis mask and this, and my hair is noticeable nicer to touch than usually. I'm not a fan of the scent. I think most will like it, but to me it's smells a bit dated, too musky vanilla or something. The bottle is small too with only 60 ml for the price, which I don't know how long will last for me because I used up a lot of this stuff. But hopefully this stays on the market for long because I like the fact I have such a nice product easily accessible in Müller, though given my luck  I should stock up before someone has a clever idea to discontinue this too. This will likely be too oily-feeling for thin hair or maybe not, I don't know. There are lighter similar products I've mentioned above.   UPDATES NIVEA Body Souffle Coconut & Monoi OilThis isn't a true favourite and that's because the scent is disappointing to me, but I've been using it almost every day since I'm a fan of the texture and it's a great body moisturiser for dry skin. I bought this with high hopes of a nice, summery coconut beachy scent and this isn't it for me. I don't get much coconut, instead I get tons of vanilla and some frangipani flowers. Having said that, it's apparently just my opinion because every single review I read said this "smells like summer". It's somewhat similar to Victoria's Secret Coconut Passion which also doesn't smell like coconut to me. Texture of this is really nice - rich and excellent for dry skin. It's not overly greasy, but it's a lot more reminiscent of thin body butters than lotions. Souffle is a bad name for this because it's not feather light, but I'm glad it isn't. There are sparse golden beads inside which are oil capsules. Nivea's body moisturisers are also excellent when it comes to long-term results and unlike other brands they can tackle even my driers, roughest areas. WISHLIST SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL Dark Oil line: Oil, Lightweight Mask and Silkening Fragrant Hair Mist - One of you send me a long message with recommendations for hair product and this was among them (also L'Oreal Liss line, but I think it's being discontinued because I can't find much in online shops and a Palmer's oil, didn't learn which precisely). I went to check reviews and this oil supposedly stands out among others, in particular when it comes to smoothing the hair. Mask is also highly rated and despite the name, reviews describe is as thick which tends to be a good sign. The silkening mist sounds a lot like got2b #ohmynude taming spray, so I don't need it, but I'm still curious if it's as great as reviews say. L'ORÉAL PARIS Age Perfect Radiant Serum Foundation with SPF 50 - This is new and not in our drugstores. I wonder if we'll get this because we don't have the Maybelline Urban one with SPF 50 (giving Slovenes a foundation with a high SPF would be just insane apparently), but I remain hopeful.   L'ORÉAL PARIS Infallible Matte Lip Crayon 102 Caramel Blonde - These are matte and this shade looks wearable, I really don't need to say more. We don't have them here yet, but they are online. THE INKEY LIST Niacinamide Serum - My skin loves niacinamide, but I've been avoiding The Ordinary 10% one because more often than not their skin care just doesn't suits me or work at all, so I'm considering this one. It also has squalene and ferments, both my skin tend to like. KÉRASTASE Discipline line: Maskeratine, Keratin Thermique Crème and Fluidissime Spray - I'm on a hunt for products that will give me a smooth blow-out, since my faves are consistently getting discontinued. This line has great reviews, however, I am a bit worried it'll disappoint me like the Chronologiste mask, which cost an arm and a leg. Fluidissime spray looks like the best bet. L'ORÉAL PARIS Elvital Dream Length No Frizz Serum - I saw this in Müller and it looks interesting. It's a heat protectant, but one with no silicones and it has some proteins. One day I'll give it a try. Reviews are overwhelmingly positive, but I don't know if reviewers have thin or thick hair on average. PALMER'S Natural Fusions Ceramide Monoi Hair Food Oil - Palmer's has a lot of products with such great ingredients. This caught my eye because of ceramides which act like a cement on the hair and it's one ingredient my hair care still lacks. This is a combination of oils (canola, sunflower, coconut, macadamia, argan, shea, …) and ceramides, but it's silicone free, so it's something I'd use as a pre-wash treatment or on the ends when my hair is very dry. LA CROA Keratin Hair Smoothing Serum and Nourishing Hair Oil - After trying the spray oil, I'd love to try some more. I've tried the Silver Conditioner and I was not impressed, but the ingredients of keratin serum look great, as it has hydrolysed keratin second on the list and argan oil not far behind. The oil too has argan oil right after the two silicones and some other extra oils, so it might be one of those thick ones my hair loves.  The mask is sadly only available in 25 ml satchels here, so one won't be enough for my long thick hair (you get 50 ml at HASK for 2.75 €) and 4 € for one use is a lot (one is 1.99 €), but I might try it nonetheless. Have a great day!

[haxballfan-blog]

When You're Sad, Your Skin Is Sad

Correlation doesn't prove causation, but I can't help but notice that both times I’ve lived in my teenage bedroom I’ve felt especially sad. In high school, it was an angry sadness that sought attention. But when I came back to my parents house in March to ride out COVID, the sadness became deep and dull—about everything and nothing. I go to bed dreading the next day like it holds a big test I haven’t studied for. In the morning, I alternately jolt awake while it’s still dark, or tether myself to my comforter well into the workday. I’ve been very privileged in the ways I’ve experienced the past few months, but also very anxious. And actually, the CDC estimates that 40-percent of adults exhibit symptoms of anxiety or depressive disorders as of this past July. (In 2019, that number was 11-percent.) So, yes, I’m crying a lot more than usual; maybe you are too. I’m also breaking out more than usual—and you?

“Yes, stress causes you to break out,” says Dr. Amy Wechsler, who, as one of only a handful of doctors in the US board-certified in both dermatology and psychiatry, is uniquely qualified to answer questions about this kind of stuff—she even wrote the book on it. Dr. Wechsler cites a well-known study done on a college campus during exam week, where researchers found a strong correlation between stress and the severity of acne. “But exam period is like two weeks long, and when the exams go away the breakouts go away. Imagine if you had exam period for five months, you know? That’s like what we’re going through right now.”

According to Dr. Wechsler, the root of stress acne lies in a molecule called cortisol. Cortisol is a hormone that’s pumped out by the body to fight illness, control blood sugar levels, regulate metabolism, and influence memory formation. In general it’s anti-inflammatory, but when you’re stressed, your body responds by producing more cortisol than it would normally as part of the fight-or-flight response meant to keep you alert when you need to be. If that stress is prolonged, and you don’t have the proper coping mechanisms to deal with it, cortisol starts to act very inflammatory.

“Inflammation is the root cause of acne, and eczema, and psoriasis,” says Dr. Wechsler, who also adds that high levels of cortisol over a long period of time will break down collagen, the molecule in your skin that keeps it looking plump. “That’s why when people are really stressed out for a while, they look like they aged overnight.” For a good, obvious example of this phenomenon, take a look at a photo of President Obama in his first year as president compared to his last. Cortisol also weakens your skin’s natural barrier, so you’ll start to experience more transepidermal water loss. Several months of anxiety may leave you with a totally different skin type: even if your skin is normally oily, it will start to dry out and get more sensitive. Dr. Wechsler notes that when your barrier is compromised, your skin is more likely to react to something that normally wouldn’t cause a problem. “That’s when people say things like, ‘I’ve been using the same product forever, they haven’t changed their ingredients, but now I can’t tolerate it.’”

The tricky part about cortisol is that once levels are high, it can be difficult to bring them down on your own. At minimum, you need to make sure you’re getting an adequate amount of sleep each night, which can be difficult when you’re feeling anxious. “Cortisol is at its lowest for everybody during sleep, and healing molecules like beta-endorphins, growth hormones, and oxytocin,” a mood enhancer, “are always at their highest,” says Dr. Wechsler, who compares the molecules’ relationship to a see-saw. If you’re not getting much sleep, you’re not giving the anti-inflammatories a chance to catch up to the cortisol.

During the daytime, you can sort of hack your body chemicals by engaging in activities that directly trigger a release of those happy molecules. Completing your skincare routine floods your brain with dopamine, otherwise known as the “feel-good neurotransmitter.” So would cooking a complicated dinner, or organizing your bedroom, or finishing a book. A workout can help balance too-low endorphins, a fact I always felt was fallacy until I experienced my first runner’s high a few months ago. Not into exercise? Pop on a John Mulaney stand up special—any will do!—for a rush of endorphins you don’t have to sweat for. And to raise your oxytocin levels, turn down the lights and grab your vibrator. Sex drive can lower when you’re depressed, but each time you orgasm your body releases cortisol-lowering, calm-inducing oxytocin.

Of course, these things won’t stop you from feeling anxious, but they might help you feel a little bit better on the day-to-day, and you also may see a difference in your skin. “When people are very anxious, they feel this loss of control over what’s going on in their lives, and normal routines fall by the wayside because they feel unimportant,” Dr. Wechsler explains. “A skincare routine gives you back a little control,” she adds, conceding that, at the very least, 10 minutes of caring for yourself will feel better than reading the news, or scrolling through Instagram.

The absolute easiest, low-effort way to help balance cortisol? For a sad person at least, it’s crying. Scientists aren’t quite sure how or why, but studies show that a good crying session decreases cortisol levels. It was once widely believed that tears were a way to expel excess stress hormones, but now, most researchers think that the benefits of crying have to do with social signaling: just getting out the message that you’re in distress seems to help alleviate some of that distress. And, if you’re crying to somebody, they’re likely to give you a hug, rub your back, or stroke your hair—all triggers for oxytocin.

But while crying is good for the skin internally, it can leave your face feeling… not so great. Which is the reason I called Dr. Wechsler in the first place—I wear my recent crying obviously, and am left frantically icing my face before morning meetings and check-ins with family. Beyond how I look, my post-crying face hurts. My eyes get incredibly puffy, and I often find myself stuck between a rock and a hard place when I cry at night. It happens, without fail, after I do my skincare routine, and I wasn’t sure whether the salty tears left on my skin were further contributing to breakouts. To make my outsides match my insides after a solid catharsis, I wanted to figure out a post-crying best practice—a sad girl beauty routine, if you will.

What I’d learn is that your eyes work overtime to produce tears, which draws an abundance of blood to the surface of your eyelids. If you cry at night, that blood doesn’t have anywhere to go—it pools in your face when you’re lying flat. “If you’re crying during the day and you’re standing up and walking around, gravity will take the swelling from your eyelids, bring it down your face, and flush it out,” adds Dr. Wechsler. For those particularly concerned about morning puffiness, you can stay upright until the swelling subsides, or try Dr. Weschler’s favorite method. “Put a teaspoon in a glass of ice water, let it get really cold, and then take the back of the teaspoon and put it on your eyelid with a little bit of pressure. Both the cold and the pressure really help those blood vessels calm back down,” says Dr. Wechsler, who learned the tip from one of her model patients. Doing that right away will probably help prevent morning puffiness, but if you aren’t feeling up to it, just go to sleep and try to keep your head elevated with an extra pillow. You can always try the spoon trick (and some vertical action) in the morning.

As for the tears themselves, Dr. Wechsler recommends rinsing them off to abate dryness. If you’ve cried within a half hour of doing your skincare routine, you can rinse with a gentle cleanser (or water, if you think another wash will be too drying) and re-apply your skincare products. Otherwise, just rinse and moisturize again.

Remember how I mentioned cortisol is difficult to lower on your own? If you’re experiencing symptoms of anxiety and depression, you might also consider seeking out the help of a trained therapist. While it’s easy to ruminate on how we look on the outside, it’s important to emphasize that this skin issue is indicative of a larger, internal problem. Aside from the auxiliary benefit of helping balance your skin, talking to someone can help alleviate the feelings of loneliness, grief, and uncertainty you might be feeling right now. Therapy for Black Girls, the National Queer & Trans Therapists of Color Network, and Open Path Collective all offer remote therapy options at accessible price points. You might also check out Psychology Today’s list of therapists, which is quite comprehensive—you can filter results by things like specialty, sexuality, and race. If you’re a Black woman, you can also apply for a grant from The Loveland Foundation to subsidize your sessions.

Knowing that my skin is feeling as vulnerable as I am right now, I’ve been taking it easy with my skincare. And the benefit is twofold: nixing breakout treatments lets my skin actually heal, and using fewer products means I’m more likely to actually do my routine (even when I don’t feel like it). I’ve noticed new pimples subsiding after fortifying my compromised skin barrier with products rich in ceramides, natural moisturizing factors, and lipids. I’ve also been chasing opportunities to feel good as often as I can, masked and tiptoeing around the border of my own shrunken comfort zone. Still the breakouts, and the tears, come in waves. But then again, they always have.