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hellsbellssewingclub · 3 years

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Sewing 101: Fibers and fabrics

When you first enter a fabric store, you might get a little overwhelmed with how many choices you have. Names upon names, more colors and patterns than you can count...how is one to choose? Especially in these times when online shopping is more prevalent than ever and there often isn't someone who can help you find the perfect fabric for your needs?

Here I have compiled a small list about the difference of how fabrics are made, the different materials used along with their pros and cons, especially with a few on how sustainable they actually are.

When it comes to fabrics, they are either woven or knitted. With weaving, there are several threads prepared under tension, which is called the warp. They are divided into two parts, making room for the weft, a thread that is passed vertically through the warp threads. The weft is pushed downwards after every pass before the warp switches position. The thread that was up is now on the bottom, and the one on the top is passed down. Then the weft is passed again, locking the other pass in place. Of course there are many different variations of how the warp is divided, each giving a different look and feel, as well as different characteristics, though I will explain those in a different post.

Knitted fabrics consist of a thread hooked into another, creating a stretchy fabric. It is quite similar to the scarves, hats and whatever else you can knit by hand, though the loops are a lot smaller and finer. With knitted fabrics there are also many specifications on how they are made, from smooth knit to faux fur or lace, the options are almost endless.

With materials of fabrics, there are also many varieties. From natural fibers, to chemical fibers to natural chemical fibers or blends, with everything that is available these days, you can pick and choose when it comes to price, feel, or sustainability. Now I will present the most popular fibers with my opinions on them.

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When it comes to natural plant fibers, cotton is probably the first one that comes to mind. The fiber grows in a protective case around the seeds of the cotton plants which is picked after the plant has grown enough. This phase alone shows the most problems when it comes to the ethical choice. While growing, cotton requires both heat and massive amounts of water, requiring 8000-10000 liters of water per kilogram, in hotter climates more than twice the amount. Another problem is the pest control, especially in poorer countries. Harsh chemicals are usually dispersed per plane over commercial plantations, but in fields maintained by families of farmers, they are often seen trudging along the rows of cotton, spraying the plants with chemicals without any kind of protective gear. Lack of education and availability are mostly to blame for this, causing illness and disability early in their lives, especially since the massive amount of pesticide mostly doesn't even work anymore, due to immunity.

Once the growing is done, there comes the harvest. While it is done by machine in the west, developing countries as well as China still rely on manual harvest, making it possible to pick only the highest quality fibers. Even though this might maintain a good quality, they still heavily rely on forced labor, even today.

Once prepped and made into a fabric, cotton is very resilient. It hardly abrades over time, nor is it easy to rip. While in it's natural state it does not keep heat well, though this can be changed with a specific finishing. The same can be said about it's elasticity. Elasticity describes how prone the fabric is to wrinkling. The lower the elasticity, the stronger and persistent the wrinkles. Cotton as a fabric has a very low elasticity, which can be elevated by blending the fiber, or with another finishing. The skin friendliness is very high, making cotton a favorite for garments worn directly on the skin, like dresses, shirts and pants.

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Staying on the topic of natural fibers, wool is another favorite. Technically speaking, the term wool can only be used for fibers produced by sheep, fibers from any other animal is simply called animal hair.

Wool has a long lasting history, apart from linen being one of the oldest fibers used especially in Europe. It is produced by sheep, which are shorn with a tool specifically made to make sure the animal is not hurt in the process.

There are of course different breeds of sheep and they all produce a different kind of fiber, the three most dominant ones are called Cheviot, Crossbreed and Merino. Where wool from the Cheviot sheep is coarse, making it useful for rugs or furniture. Merino wool is the finest wool with a strong curl, making it very soft but also quite expensive. It is mostly used for high quality fabrics for clothing, scarves and socks.

In the middle is the crossbreed sheep, as the name suggests, a cross between the two. This wool is less fine, but also not too coarse to be used for clothing. It is mostly suited for functional fashion.

Unlike cotton, wool has the tendency to arbrate rather fast, making it less resilient. The skin friendliness is dependent on the type of wool. Coarser wool tends to itch and while Merino or lambs wool is very soft, it can still irritate the skin if you are very sensitive. The elasticity is very high. Wrinkles do no form at all or tend to vanish if the garment is hung up. They can also easily be removed with steam.

Another unique trait of wool is the possibility to felt it. Just like hair tends to stick together when teased or rubbed together, wool has the same ability if either teased with barbed needles, or washed with heat, soap and friction. This fabric is called felt, making it shrink and giving it a firmer feel.

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The third important natural fiber is silk. Undoubtedly the most expensive natural fiber, it has many excellent qualities, but also a few ethical problems. It originates from domestic silkworms, which to cocoon themselves produce the fiber known as silk.

They are dependent on humans for reproduction, spawning an entire practice with a workforce behind it, called sericulture. These worms almost exclusively live off of the leaves of the white mulberry tree before they cocoon themselves to turn into the oddly adorable silk moths.

Before the moths can emerge from the cocoon, a select few are set apart for breeding, while the rest are harvested. The worms are killed under hot steam or dry heat, before the cocoons are boiled in water, removing the protein sericin, which makes the strand stick together, making it possible to unravel the cocoon in one long strand.

Like every other fiber, silk has some unique properties. Along with the unique silk shimmer, this fiber has the ability to both keep you warm in the winter or cool you down in the summer, making it popular for blouses, shirts and scarves.

Because of it's smooth and elastic texture, it is also one of the most skin friendly fibers available that rarely tends to wrinkle unless it is prepped with a special finishing.

The most negative point about silk is how delicate it is. Water, direct sunlight, deodorants, all of those can leave marks that can't be removed.

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With the technology of today, chemical fibers are on the forefront of most markets. They are cheaper, easier to dye and produce and can be prepped to any specifications you could wish for. The most important fibers are poly-amide and polyester, both made from granulate which is spun into fibers. They can be modified whichever way it is needed, smooth or textured and the dye is combined with the granulate, making it almost impossible to wash out. Chemical fibers are very resilient, rarely ripping and the high elasticity causes little to no wrinkles.

They also have a great thermoplasticity, meaning that they can be permanently shaped under heat, which is great for folds and pleats, leaving them intact after washing.

Another plus is the fact that chemical fibers do not absorb moisture. Sweat gets transported to the outside of the fabric easily and garments tend to dry very fast. This however also causes a lot of static, as well as the problem of unpleasant odors quickly sticking to it.

And while natural fibers have their problems, synthetic ones are quickly catching up with them. While the positives are numerous, the negatives are as well. Synthetic fibers are in essence just plastic. Chemicals used in the production are often dumped where they do not belong and the micro-plastic clinging to the fabrics are also washed off and distributed back into our water. A good alternative are the last three fabrics I would like to present.

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Viscose and Modal combine the positives of both natural and synthetic fibers, making them natural synthetic fibers. They are made from wood fibers, mostly eucalyptus, pine, bamboo or beech, which is prepped and spun into fibers, much like fibers based on polymers. Much like true synthetic fibers, they can be manipulated to fit any specifications with one of the only downside being that it has a rather low elasticity. Of course there are also chemicals at play in producing those fibers. If that is something you are completely averse to, you might want to look into Lyocell. Like Viscose and Modal it is made out of wood fibers, the process of producing it is however modified to the point where no chemicals ever reach the wastewater. The solvent needed to gain the fiber from the wood can be washed out completely and be reused, making the fiber not only Eco-friendly in it's production, but it is also de-composable like Viscose, Modal and other natural fibers.

Of course there are many more fibers as well as blends that cancel out the negative properties they would have on their own, but I feel like this post is already long enough on it's own. As you can see, no fiber is without it's problems and it is up to each of us to give them value. While some might prefer natural fibers from ethical sources, others swear on synthetic ones both because of price and versatility. I always recommend to look into the sources of where the fabrics come from and make your decision from there.

I hope this was a good first look into the wondrous world of fabrics and that I managed to answer whatever questions you might have had.

Let me know if there is anything else you want to know!

Happy sewing!

#sewing #diy #craft #crafts #crafting #fabrics #textiles

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hellsbellssewingclub · 3 years

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Sewing 101: Tracing and cutting

Once you have decided on your project, it's time to trace the pattern on paper. Make sure you have gathered all the information about the pattern that you need, for example how many pieces there are and what they are for, the color in which they are printed, what the lines look like for the size you need and take in all the marks on the pieces which I described in my earlier post.

To get started it is best if you have a large flat table, though it is also possible to use the floor, just make sure to protect your knees and take breaks to prevent your back from hurting.

Weights will make sure that your work will not slip around.

Use a ruler for longer straight lines and while not absolutely necessary when tracing, a curved ruler can also be a big help.

Make sure that you trace every single detail, since adding them after you have maybe already cut your fabric is rather annoying.

Once you are done tracing, make sure to note down on the piece what part of the garment it is, the size and the name of the pattern or magazine which you have traced it from. This prevents chaos if you happen to get your patterns mixed up.

Cut them out once you are sure that nothing is missing.

Depending on the fabric it is recommended to wash and iron it before you start your project. Some fibers, especially cotton or viscose, tend to shrink so all of your hard work in measuring and fitting can be for nothing if you wash your fabrics after you have sewn them.

The amount of fabric that is needed will be written down in the pattern, though I would recommend to rather buy a little more than to end up short a few centimeters. Scraps of fabric can be used for many small projects after all!

Usually there is a sketch included in the pattern to show you how to lay down your pieces to make sure they all fit on the fabric. Make sure that the "right side", meaning the one that would be visible once you wear your garment, is on the inside once you fold your fabric and always pin our pieces down first before cutting to just to be sure everything fits!

There are different ways the pieces are cut: single, double or in a fold.

For pieces like sleeves, pant legs and others, the fabric is doubled so you can save some time.

Pieces like the front or back of a dress are cut double in a fold. That simply means that you basically only cut half a pattern piece and then unfold it to make it whole. This is mostly done to make cutting quicker and save some space on the original clothing pattern.

Once your paper pieces are pinned to the fabric or placed down with some weights, it's time to draw yet again. This time, unless otherwise specified in the pattern, you will have to trace your pieces with a seam allowance. That is a border of usually 1-2cm that is necessary for being able to sew in the first place. If you are making a mock up out of a cheap fabric first, I recommend a larger seam allowance to leave you some room for adjustments in case the fit is too tight, otherwise 1-1,5cm should suffice.

Make sure to copy all of the symbols, lines and marks from the pattern before you start cutting.

Do not remove the pins right away!

If your pieces are doubled, in a fold or not, you still need to copy all marks from one side to the other.

That can either be done with a contrast colored thread, quickly sewn through both layers so the marks can be traced on the second piece, or with a tracing wheel and copy paper. The principle is similar to carbon paper, which is laid down on the surface first, with the fabric on top of it. The tracing wheel, once again looking similar to a pizza cutter but this time smaller and with a lot of spikes, is then rolled over the symbols, copying them onto the layer below.

Always make sure to use chalk or copying paper in a similar color of the fabric, otherwise you might end up with some stains that won't come out to easily!

After cutting, check once again that you haven't missed anything and then, according to many tailors, you have completed the worst part of your project!

Of course, special projects require special preparations. If you are working with, for example, leather, some other points must be taken into consideration. If you have any questions regarding that, do not hesitate to ask me!

Happy sewing!

#sewing #diy #crafts #crafting

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hellsbellssewingclub · 3 years

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Sewing 101: Taking measurements

Before you can cut your fabric, you need to know your size. While conventional sizes are usually a good start, with sewing garments yourself, you will need to get a little more specific.

When you get first started, just a few measurements will be enough, but if you are interested in making clothing patterns yourself, you will need to get a little more thorough.

To properly take your own measurements or that of others, you will need a measuring tape and a piece of paper with a pencil to note them down.

If doing your own measurements it is quite helpful to have someone assist you, though you can get them done by yourself as well.

When taking measurements, it is important to stand comfortably. You have to look straight ahead to make sure nothing is crooked and to not suck in your stomach or stick out your chest, even if that is much of a reflex for many.

Wearing only underwear or very thin clothing gives you the best and most accurate results.

The measuring tape should lie flat against your body, tight enough to not move around, but not so tight that it will cut into your skin.

The most important measurements that you will need to decide on your size when picking a pattern are the following:

- Height:

Measuring yourself from head to toe, wearing only socks or being barefoot to the crown of your head, is best done with the help of someone else. When taking this measure, it is important that you stand straight and comfortable, keeping your gaze straight ahead to make sure you do not bend down in any way.

- Chest circumference:

It is taken around the widest part of the chest in both men and women, keep breathing as you take it to make sure that you find a good fit around the expanding and deflating chest, making sure that the measuring tape isn't too loose or too tight.

- Waist circumference:

The smallest part of the upper body is your waist. This measurement is relatively easy to take, just let the tape slip around that natural dip. Once again make sure that it isn't too loose or too tight.

- Hip circumference:

The widest part of the body. The measuring tape needs to be parallel to the ground, lying flat around the widest part of the butt and hips.

Apart from what I have already mentioned, it is also important to be honest when taking your measurements. I am too guilty of wanting to be a little dishonest when talking about my size and my weight, so I get the temptation of lowering the numbers just a little to feel better. But then again that is just what they are. Numbers.

Many people sew their own clothing because off the rack fashion just doesn't fit right. There is no shame in not having the "perfect size" simply because it does not exist.

Wearing clothing that is quite literally made for you gives you so much more confidence and that is why I decided to pursue this career in the first place.

Being overweight myself, I often find myself wearing clothing that swallows up my body because it is so oversized but seeing how the right fit can compliment even my body, for which I have not much love, made me not only more confident in my looks, but also more motivated to find out what it would look like once I'm healthier and a few sizes down.

I hope that going forward I can share those experiences with you.

Happy sewing!

#sewing #diy #crafts #crafting

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hellsbellssewingclub · 3 years

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Sewing 101: Clothing patterns

Clothing patterns are basically the blueprint of tailoring. Unless you have studied how to make a pattern yourself, which you can either learn by going to school for it or self studying and experimenting, you might want to pick up a clothing pattern to get started.

These are usually sold as magazines, with several patterns on one big sheet of paper, or you can buy them for a single garment, which usually comes with a more detailed description on how to sew it and while the pattern sheet is usually more clearly arranged, it can also be a little more expensive than the magazine alternative.

The biggest issue beginners might have with a pattern in the beginning is how crowded the sheet of paper tends to be. If it comes from a magazine, the patterns from 20+ outfits are usually printed on both sides of the sheets to conserve paper. You can usually find a short description of the parts needed with pictures on how they look like and with every detail that needs to be copied, with the number of the sheet, as well as the color the parts were printed with.

Along with the description comes a chart with the different sizes offered. These sizes are indicated by different kinds of lines the patterns are printed with. For example the smallest size might have a bold line, where the next larger size has a line made out of dashes and the next one a dash-dot line. This makes it a lot easier to follow them. How to find out your perfect size is something I will discuss in one of the next posts.

To get started you will need a roll of plotter paper or any kind of other slightly sheer paper to trace the patterns. It is best to write down the numbers of the parts you need and cross them out as you draw them on the paper, that way you can keep track and avoid forgetting a part.

It is also incredibly important to copy every single symbol and mark included on the pattern. Here I have compiled a small list of standard symbols that might be included, what they look like and what they are used for:

- Centerlines:

These mark important spots on a pattern show the position of the waist, chest, hips, etc. You can use them as measurements to make sure that the pattern will fit you, but they can also be used to match the single parts of the pattern together.

- Zipper and pocket placements

For a zipper it's not just important to know which kind of zipper you might want to use, but also the length. This mark will show you how far you will have to close the seam before adding in the zipper.

- Darts

Darts are a kind of fold sewn into a garment to help with the fit and the shape. You can mostly find them either at the waistline of skirts or pants, or to shape the bust of blouses, dresses or jackets if they are meant to be form-fitting. They are cone shaped and are usually sewn at the beginning of the project before putting the pieces together.

- Pleats

In a pattern you will see both the depth of the pleat, as well as the direction in which they are folded, indicated by two lines with an arrow.

- Grainline:

Every fabric has a grain, easiest found by placing the grainline, a long line with an arrow at the end, on the pattern parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. This is very important since with a lot of fabrics the elasticity will change depending on the direction it is pulled. Even with a fabric in a solid color, the weaving of it can give a little bit of a pattern which should be matched up with every single piece of the garment.

- Buttonholes and buttons

- Matched points

Much like the centerlines they are used to show where different parts of a pattern fit together. These are very important especially for sleeves where the seam has some ease, meaning that the sleeve itself is slightly larger than the armhole which is needed to give it its shape.

Another kind of matched points are numbers in the corners of the patterns, showing you which of them belong together.

- Fold

For sleeves or pockets for example you will need two of the same piece, only mirrored. For that you can simply cut the fabric doubled. Other pieces, like fronts and backs of dresses and shirts need only one part. A lot of the time the pattern for those is simply halved and you can pin the straight line, which represents the middle, to the fold of the doubled fabric, giving you a full pattern piece once unfolded.

Getting used to clothing patterns is the first hurdle of sewing, it might be overwhelming the first time you try to find the pieces you are looking for, but once you get used to it, this will become the quickest part of your projects. Keep in mind to stay on track and focus since there is nothing more frustrating than realizing you have forgotten a mark or even an entire piece once you get started with sewing.

I hope this is a good overview of how a clothing pattern works and with the next post I will teach you how to properly trace them onto your paper, since even for that there are some tips that might make it just a little easier for you.

Happy sewing!

#sewing #diy #crafts #crafting

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hellsbellssewingclub · 3 years

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Sewing 101: Tools

Sewing, as most crafts, requires certain materials and tools to get started. Some of these tools are required, some mostly make your work a little easier or more enjoyable. In this post I would like to go over the tools you need and some you might not need but eventually want.

Sewing machine:

With sewing machines there are as many types as there are brands that sell them. From embroidery machines that basically do the work for you with the right software, to industrial machines that sew through literally everything, a good start is a simple household sewing machine, not the cheapest but also not the most expensive for the start.

A good sewing machine should come with several different foots, a set of needles a few bobbins and the tools required should your machine need some maintenance. I recommend getting one with a few different stitches, straight, zig-zag, maybe a few decorative ones for a creative finish, it's best to collect some information first before making a purchase, since the sewing machine is the heart and soul in the making of any kind of clothing.

Another sewing machine that might be useful once you really get into it is an overlock machine. They are fitted with three or four threads at once as well with a knife close to the needle. They give your seam allowance a nice finish that prevents fraying, although they can also be used for stretchy fabrics that need an elastic stitch.

Scissors:

I'm sure that many have the memory of that one pair of scissors at home that they were never allowed to use. That is because, like the scissors of a hairdresser, fabric scissors can be very expensive and need constant maintenance to stay as sharp as they have to be. Nothing is more frustrating than cutting some fabric and having it shift around because of that one dull spot on the blade. Of course there are also many different kinds of fabric scissors available, some that are cheaper but cannot be sharpened again once dull, then the ones that come from a smith and can be maintained to be used for years and years. For different fabrics there are also different options. A roller cutter, closely resembling a pizza cutter, is very handy for cutting out bigger pieces of fabric, or scissors with micro serration to avoid slippery fabric from moving around while cutting.

And while a good pair of fabric scissors are an investment to consider, in the beginning a cheaper alternative will do, though a replacement might be necessary more often.

Small scissors are also a must. They are very handy for cutting threads or opening up seams if something went wrong.

Needle and thread:

Needles and thread are quite literally what keeps your project from falling apart. Like with most tools, there are also a few options, depending on what you are sewing. With threads it is more sensible to not choose the cheaper alternative. Often you will find sets for a low price with threads and bobbins and while some of them might work well enough, more often than not they are made from a cheap material that will rip under even the slightest bit of tension.

Polyester is the go to material for threads these days, both because of the durability and the wide variety of colors.

Cotton is an alternative, although the color variety is rather limited as well as the elasticity of the thread, making it more prone to break under tension.

Silk is a wonderful material for a decorative thread, due to the beautiful shine as well as the smooth texture that makes hand stitches a lot easier. The thicker thread, much like the polyester alternative, is mostly used for buttonholes.

Stainless steel sewing needles are a good start for a beginner. They can often be bought in a set, with different lengths and thickness, giving many options for different projects. For more advanced tailors there are also options for special fabrics like leather or super stretchy jersey, though for the beginning the simple set is more than enough.

Pins:

Pins are used to hold the pieces of fabric together before they are sown. The biggest difference in pins are their heads. Most pins either have a small flat metal head, making them very handy for pinning something down for ironing without leaving much of a dent, or a plastic/glass head which makes them easier to grip to remove them. A pin cushion, mostly a stuffed ball of fabric or a piece of foam, either to set down on the table or to be worn around the arm, can be used to store pins for easy access. A good alternative is a magnet to collect them, though it cannot be used with needles made of stainless steel.

Rulers and measuring tape:

With sewing, measuring is very important. Whether it be measuring your own body for a perfect fit, measuring seam allowances or the finished size of a product, sturdy rulers and measuring tapes are a must. A set square, a flexible tailors ruler and a measuring tape are the perfect trio for a beginner.

Chalk and pencils:

That is the part where we draw the line. Literally. Before you can cut anything, you have to draw it onto the fabric. For most lines some simple tailors chalk will do, either as a piece of chalk, a pen or a little contraption with a wheel that dispenses chalk dust onto the fabric. Each of them have their pros and cons, a piece of chalk is usually cheaper but with a thicker line, chalk pencils are more precise but expensive and said contraption does not shift the fabric around though the lines are not very precise.

For marks that will not be cut off but remain on the fabric, chemical chalk can be a good alternative to trying to wash or rub the chalk dust off. This alternative reacts with heat, making it vanish once you iron over it or leave it in a warm place like a spot in the sun. This is both very practical but can also be very frustrating if you accidentally leave your project near a heater and watch your drawn marks disappear. It will also cause a slight reaction, causing your nose to itch or your eyes to burn a little. It can be very helpful though many tailors deem the chalk not worth the negatives.

Other tools:

In the beginning, you will have to rip seams more often than you will likely sew them. In that case, a seam ripper will quickly become a handy companion. It is equipped with a sharp blade that can cut through threads easily, as well as a sharp point that makes picking up thread easy without cutting into the fabric. And while it is unlikely that you will cut holes into your project, it can happen if you are not careful. Many tailors swear on using seam rippers, while others avoid them like the plague and prefer small scissors instead.

Thimbles can sometimes save your fingers. They are mostly made of metal or plastic and are put on the tip of your middle finger, or any other finger that feels more comfortable for you, to push a needle through the fabric if you are sewing by hand. An alternative is a finger ring, a broad metal band with dips hammered into it to stop the needle from slipping off. Just like the seam ripper, opinions on thimbles are often split. Some cannot sew without them, while others feel like they get in the way, much like myself.

Paper for clothing patterns is another important tool. You can buy it in fabric stores, or use plotter paper, mostly available in rolls with many meters. It is slightly sheer so you can trace the pattern. When buying paper, do not underestimate the amount you will need, of course you can always cut and glue the paper together but having it in one piece will make your work a lot easier in the long run.

Once you get more used to cutting out fabric pieces, weights might be a good investment to make. They are used to keep the paper patterns on the fabric from slipping around since not all fabrics do well with pins.

Dress form:

This is absolutely optional and mostly interesting for those who start sewing not only for themselves but for others as well. A dress form can be used to test the fit of a garment without needing the client to try them on. Especially in the early stages of making a clothing item, it will need to be fitted again and again and a dress from, especially one that can be adjusted, is a lifesaver. Of course you can make them yourself, and for the start that might be a good alternative, since they can be very expensive.

Nettle cloth:

Nettle cloth is a cheap, unbleached cotton fabric and mostly used to make mock ups of a finished project. You can buy it for a few euros a meter and it is especially handy if you have to make heavy adjustments to a clothing pattern, if your project is very elaborate or if you are more or less experimenting. It might seem like a waste of money at first, but with the prices of some fabrics, it is better to use up one for 2 euros a meter than waste the one for ten times the price that you have been saving up.

Of course there are many other tools that might be useful, but for the start this is what I would recommend. Most of these things can be bought online and with the recent pandemic they should be bought online, though for sewing machines it might be worth getting your information from a local fabric store. They can not only give you useful tips, but they are often also available for maintenance and in case you have issues getting your machine adjusted. Let me know if there is anything I missed or if there is anything you would like to add.

Happy sewing!

#sewing #diy #crafts #crafting

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