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Where am I, What is it, and What am I doing?: Karma Yoga

Many people have been asking about what I have been doing these days in India. I am currently located in southwest India in the state of GOA. I live at SWAN yoga retreat, which sits about 8km from the shore in a thick jungle.

SWAN is actually an acronym standing for Swami Niranjananda, who is the current Guru at Bihar School of Yoga. Bihar School of Yoga is the oldest yoga school in the world and all of the teachers at SWAN have spent time training, living at the ashram, and have received blessings from the guru. The founders of SWAN have dedicated this retreat to their Guru, Swami Nirajananda. SWAN follows the principles of an Ashram, has multiple training courses, and provides one, two, and three week retreats for visitors who want to visit and learn what yoga really is.

“Yoga Beyond Asana” and “Living Yoga” are two phrases that accurately describe SWAN, as the mission here is to educate beginners and advanced practitioners what yoga really is as described in the ancient Indian texts. Most of the world has been made aware of the asana, or physical practice, which has become a multi-billion dollar market. Asana makes up one tiny piece of the yoga-pie and SWAN focuses more on the remainder of what yoga really is. We believe that yoga is not a practice on a yoga mat, but a lifestyle.

First, Karma yoga is the yoga of action or work; specifically, karma yoga is the path of dedicated work: renouncing the results of our actions as a spiritual offering rather than hoarding the results for ourselves. And so it’s an attitude that one has. It’s an attitude of offering, and it’s an attitude of seeing how the actions you are performing mean so much more. As a Karma Yogi, I am fully integrated at SWAN. I work in the kitchen, the gardens, and help with visitors, guests, and classes. Some days I paint cabinets, make runs to the market, organize storage, or clean common areas. I have study hours where I read ancient texts like Ramayana and various ashram books. Everyday I practice asana, pranayama, and Bahkti Yoga (Yoga of Devotion: Mantra/Kirtan). I have my own daily meditation practices. And I also have some free time to explore and enjoy beautiful and crazy India.

Typical Daily Schedule for a Karma Yogi:

5:00am- Wake up and shower

5:30 am- Pranayama (Breath Work)

6-6:45am- Meditation

7:00am- Tea & Fruits

7:30-9:00am- Morning Asana (Physical practice)

9:00am: Kitchen duties

10:00am- Brunch

11:00-1pm- Yoga Nidra & Yoga Philosophy classes

1:00-2pm- Study Hour

2-4:00pm- Rotating work around campus

4-5:30pm- Asana

6-7:00pm- Dinner

7-8:00pm- Mantra/Kirtan/Havan (Fire ceremony)

8-9:00pm- Group Karma Yoga Kitchen Clean up

9-10:00pm- Free Time

10:00pm- Lights out

As you can see the days are usually filled, yet weaved within them are profound conversations with my teachers and other guests from around the world. Everyday I learn from these intimate and vulnerable moments. Much of my solo practice and independent work is done in silence and becomes a moving meditation. These moments have also been most profound. It is amazing what can come up, be purified, and released when you actually look within. So often we distract ourselves, blame others, and or run from our problems. This time has allowed me to just be with whatever space I am in.

For those of you who are interested in coming to SWAN, I absolutely recommend it. It has an incredible sustainable campus in the jungle (they saved 99% of the trees). Hot water is powered by solar energy and the cottages are all made with natural materials. We have our own Fake Beach with a real juice bar for free time to enjoy sun, green juices, coconut water, or smoothies. If you need a real beach, that is just a 10 minute drive away. The food is satvic/Ayurvedic, completely vegetarian, and 100% insanely delicious. I truly have never had better or fresher food in my life. The teachers here are not only knowledgeable and inspiring, but actually live what they teach. I really look up to them. We have a full Ayurvedic clinic on site with a doctor and therapists for treatments throughout the day.

Some days I sit and wonder how my path led me to SWAN and how much this place has changed my life. Forever grateful.

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South Indian Food In My Belly

Food. South Indian food. The food of Tamil Nadu. There’s so many things I can write about after spending almost 3 weeks in India, but food is a very important part of Indian culture and something I always look forward to throughout the day. Many people have been asking what I eat when I’m over here.. and In this post I’ll go through some of my favorite foods of south India. Remember that I am a vegetarian, as are many people in south India. Sorry meat lovers!

The dosa. One of the most simple yet favorite staples of south India. Take rice and lentil flour, make a dough, and let it ferment. Then use that fermented dough to make a crispy savory crepe.. there’s your dosa! There are of course many versions of dosas and some may have ghee, herbs and chilis, onions, or potato masala cooked inside. Dosas are typically served with a side dish of Sambar ( traditional spicy vegetable stew ) and various chutneys to dip in (see below for more info on chutneys). Dosas are usually enjoyed at breakfast time or for dinner, and are top on my list for daily cravings. See below for a Rava Dosa!

The idli. Made from a similar dough as the dosa, fermented rice and lentil flour is steamed in a pressure cooker in circular trays to create soft savory rice cakes. Due to the fermentation process, these idlis have a slightly tangy taste and are extremely easy to digest, making them a good meal for children and the elderly. Idlis are the most common breakfast food of Tamil Nadu and are also typically consumed with Sambar and/or various chutneys as seen below.

Some may argue with me on this one, but I will also vote Upma as one of my favorite foods of south India. As I am writing this post, it is clear that I enjoy the breakfast foods. Upma is like a dry porridge that is made from dry roasted semolina or course rice flour. This flour is mixed with spices, green chilis, and an assortment of vegetables including carrots, green beans, and sometimes nuts. Many locals think of this food as simple or boring, but it is one of my favorite comfort foods. Some may mix chutney with Upma, but I could just eat a big bowl of it plain and be completely content!

Vadas. A traditional South Indian savory fried snack. I enjoy two kids, one which is like a dumpling or donut, and another which is more of a fritter. Usually they are made from either ground or course lentils and are mixed with chilis, onions, and spices. The batter is then fried in oil and the final product is certainly best eaten fresh and crispy! Vadas are usually eaten as a snack or appetizer, but from personal experience it ends up becoming a big part of my whole meal as I usually can’t stop eating them! Both versions seen below.

Kitchari. A special Ayurvedic dish that is very easily digestible. The main ingredients are mung beans and basmati rice. Spices include turmeric, cumin, and mustard seeds. Vegetables are also added. This is a “slow cook” meal that starts the night before when the rice and beans are soaked in water. It is a great meal to eat after a detox and should not be overly spiced. However you can find kitchari cooked in many South Indian homes with lots of red chilis and a really big kick that makes it a spicy dish!

I’ll comment last on chutneys, as they are essential for Indian meals. Chutneys are sauces/ dips/ relishes that are used as side dishes for meals. You really can make any type of chutney, it usually just involves cooking ingredients down and then blending them together. Some of my favorites are green chutney (made with cilantro and mint), fresh coconut chutney, peanut chutney (best made with fresh peanuts recently roasted in the pan), and tomato chutney (made with ripe red tomatoes and green chilis). As mentioned before, chutneys are great for dipping dosas, idlis, and other Indian breads such as Chapti and roti. Some people like to add chutney to rices or other dishes too. 

Wherever you go in India, people are trying to feed you. On the streets, in the house, walking by a strangers home.. The locals take pride in home cooked food and to ‘eat out’ is quite rare. The recipes are usually slightly different in each family due to some traditions passed down over generations. It’s also interesting to comment on how most people only eat with their hands.. for everything: rice, yogurt, stews, etc. They believe it creates a better connection with the food that is consumed. I have been practicing this and after many stained shirts, I finally have it down.

So needless to say, I’ve been eating well. Lots of protein from the nuts and lentils and beans. Lots of fresh and local fruits and vegetables from this tropical climate. And everything cooked fresh and with lots of love! Most Indian restaurants in the states serve North Indian food. Next time you’re in the mood, I encourage you to search google maps for a South Indian restaurant.. try something new!

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What about temples.. and Thanjavur

While traveling across south India, specifically the state of Tamil Nadu, I have been visiting many temples. Tamil Nadu is famous for having the most temples than any other state in India. And some of them are over 2,000 years old. Many are made of durable components like granite and still stand despite centuries of weather, wars, and even major earthquakes. I thought I’d talk a bit about hindu temples since it’s something unique to other areas of the world.

Hindu temples are essentially homes for a specific god or deity and are intended to bring humans to unite with that god. Now as a beginner on Hinduism, I will simply say that Hindus believe in one god but use multiple faces of god that represents different forms and qualities of god. Some people may be familiar with names like Shiva, Kali, Vishnu, etc, and these are all names of gods that have temples across India.

Temples can be as small as your coat closet or as big as a 40 acre farm. Thanjavur ‘Big Temple’ I just visited is one of the top 10 largest Hindu temples. The majority of space taken up by these temples are large courtyards and walkways around the outside of the temple but inside the walls that surround the temple property. Here is a photo of the one from Thanjavur, but what you won’t see are the other mini shrines, temples, and wall structures surrounding this main central temple.

There are some basic rules for respect when walking into the temples. Never any shoes. Dress code includes baggy pants or long skirt, covered shoulders, and respectful clothing. Silence is usually expected and it is usually a good idea to generally know how to move about the temple and what to do when approaching the shrines.

When you walk inside the temple, you typically find large stone rooms and halls with large columns and big ceilings. The layout of these temples are all intentional and follow Vedic traditions and sacred geometry. On the walls there are fine scripts in Sanskrit or other traditional languages, paintings, detailed carvings, statues, and newer art that decorates the inside of temples. These usually pertain to the god for that temple and hold ancient stories and tales found in Indian mythology.

When you walk the halls of the temples, you may find small rooms for other gods and deities behind locked gates. You can approach the gates and peek in and find unique bronze, gold, or stone statues that represent that face of god. There are usually one main sanctum or shrine that contains gods image in some form. It is usually the most special one, and is usually deep in the back of the stone room with multiple locked gates. Some have lots of gold, jewels, and other extravagant features that make it special.. it’s really remarkable to see. During the day these gates are open and priests stand by to take offerings for the god that devotees may bring in the forms of food, flowers, and money for the temple. There is always a flame called an Arari that the priest will bring to the god and back to the devotees to receive blessings. For me, standing in front of these images is really powerful and is usually an intense moment for prayer or devotion. Photos usually aren’t allowed at these points so you must use your imagination.

These past few days were spent in a town called Thanjavur. The Chola king, Rajaraja I was one of the great monarchs in the history of south India and constructed the Brihadisvaram, Sanskrit for ‘big temple’. During this visit we spent time visiting the palace that the king lived in, which was extravagant, spacious, and interesting to learn about.

We spent two days visiting local temples. One day we even met up with Auntie’s Guru and did meditations inside some of the temples.. a special experience that in have little words for. I will bring us back to the “big temple” as it truly is incredible and one of the most famous ones in India. It was especially wonderful to visit at night, as this week it is Navaratri- a sacred Hindu holiday. This means live classical Indian music is moving through the air, devotees are in their best sarees, and colorful lights decorate the temple grounds. Gurujis daughter is a classical Indian singer and happened to be performing at the Big temple, so we were able to watch the concert, consisting of singers, drummers (one even played the pot!), violin... it was wonderful.. and look at the temple the concert was held in!

One fact about the Big Temple is the large granite stone at the top of the main room weighs approximately 80 tons. There are no reported quarries within 11km of the temple, and legend is it took over 100 elephants so somehow bring the piece of granite in and lift it to the top of the temple structure. I still can’t get over how this happened over 1,000 years ago. Granite is an extremely hard structure and even today takes special modern tools to carve.. how the hell they intricately carved the artwork into this granite is still a mystery and one that I appreciate very much. See the piece of granite in the photo below

So whether you follow Hinduism or simply appreciate history, art, and culture, visiting temples is very unique experience. If ever traveling to Asia I highly recommend visiting multiple temples, as each country, state, and even temple is very different. They are usually situated in specific locations that have good “energy” and I always feel it when visiting. All of the sacred acts performed in these temples are based off tradition and are very intentional. I am still learning and consistently fascinated by this culture and what it all means.

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As soon as you step foot into India, there is an inevitable buzz that seeps into your bones. Maybe it’s the overwhelming amount of people, smells, colorful sarees, or the hot climate.. but as soon as I took my first auto rickshaw ride back from the airport I got that sweet buzz and sentimental feeling. Riding through empty streets in the morning morning and observing early risers sitting on their doorstep sipping on chai... Ah, to be back in India.

I first come to Chennai because my best friend’s family lives here. It is a home away from home, and there are some special people who live here who really are like family. The house sits adjacent to a local train line and sometimes I like to sit on the roof and watch the trains go by and watch the college students casually stand in the doorways of the train. The house is also in a line of other colorful homes that friends and cousins live in. If not careful, it’s easy to walk home and be invited to each house for a chat and a chai.. always making me full for the next meal at home. Pictured below from left to right: Amama (grandma), tha tha (grandpa), me, and Chitthi (aunt). In Chennai they speak Tamil, one of many Indian languages. I know maybe 25 words, which is enough to surprise people and communicate about important things.

A three hour nap and lunch separated my ride home from the airport and a 6 hour train journey to Bangalore. The train is warm and breezy with open windows, and noisy with a full car and even filled with passengers who did not reserve a seat. I’ve never been on public transportation that serves more food than trains in India.. every 45 minutes someone walks by with Briyani (rice dish), Dosa (crepe), fried snacks, coffee, chai, etc.. it’s heaven for those who like to eat when they are bored.. me! But despite all of these distractions, I was completely content staring out the window for hours looking out on Tamil Nadu’s rice fields, tropical forests, and rocky hills.

If I had to describe Bangalore in one word it would be: Traffic. This is one of the fastest growing cities in India, as it is a huge IT hub with great jobs and colleges. The bustling city really makes you aware of just how many people there are in India.. there are always so many people. Everywhere. But Bangalore has beautiful tall buildings, parks, and good food. I was able to visit an art museum in the city and see old traditional Indian instruments and some of the oldest artifacts I’ve probably ever seen in my life. We also went to some beautiful temples, one which had a big golden archway above the gods. In the main hall there was a Kirtan happening (musical and chanting gathering), which was moving for all. Photos can’t be taken in the temples. Finally- we went on a safari outside of Bangalore which kept my jaw dropped at the many animals that approached our vehicles almost too close for comfort.

The best part about Bangalore was the hospitality that we received from new friends. A cousin’s friend and his family lives in Bangalore and they did not hesitate to host us for three nights in their home when they heard we were coming to the city. This is something very different from the US- how truly welcome you are into a strangers home and how selfless they are to give you the best experience. Senthir and Savi went out of their way to make sure we had proper transportation for our travels. Savi made me my favorite foods (baby idli and upma) and the absolute BEST coffee when I’d wake up at 5am. We enjoyed big family meals seated on the floor of their common room. Which interestingly is where many families sleep together. Yes- in India it is very common for entire families to sleep together in the floor with blankets and mats, as it is known to be better for your back and to sleep close with children.

I have to comment on the cutest kiddos I got to spend time with. Since most families all live near each other or sometimes in the same building, mom, dad, siblings, nieces, nephews, and cousins are all just a few steps away which meant more coffee and chai! It was such a treat to watch these kids interact. They all speak perfect English at an early age. And although the TV is in the common room and smart phones are available, these kids are incredibly creative and active. We spent hours playing games, doing yoga, making art with lights on the walls, running around the streets, and even practicing some yoga that they learn in school. It seems as if kids here are so much more aware of their surroundings, emotionally stable, and appreciative of simple joys. It was a great reminder for me..

Our travels to Bangalore also brought us on a day trip to Mysore, a city I have known about after practicing Ashtanga yoga. No, I did not visit the shala as there were so many other things to see. The highlight of course being the Mysore Palace. Now I have been to some of the most beautiful places in Europe, but nothing compares to this. The silver doors, golden seats, furniture with carved ivory and precious jewels almost seemed fake. Each room with its own colorful tile work creates an ambiance of extravagance. The detail in the ceilings, which is also unique to every room, must have taken the entire city to complete. But mostly- the space of the palace: giant rooms with high ceilings, and some rooms have just three walls, with the fourth side being completely open to the city surrounding the grounds. It was magnificent.

Mysore is also home to famous temples, and for one in particular, Chamundeshwari temple, we traveled to the top of the mountain to get there, as it sits above the city of Mysore. Tasting the food in Mysore made me appreciate the slight differences in common South Indian foods as you move from city to city. Even the language in Bangalore and Mysore is completely different just a few hours away from Tamil Nadu. What a way to start this trip.. but it feels good to finally be back home in Chennai with Amamas home cooking and a familiar roof to sit on. Spending the weekend locally but apparently traveling to an ancient city to the south early next week..

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India! All packed and ready to go! Three months in one suitcase. The days will be hot (80-90F) but the evenings can get quite cool. Regardless of the heat, in India females “cover up” much more than we do here so I have lots of pants and long sleeves squished in that luggage. I don’t need to bring too many other things because contrary to what others may think, India has everything you really need in convenience stores and malls.

In order to enter the country, one must have an Indian visa. Temporary visas are now called e-visas, which allow for a short - term stay and can be acquired online. Last December I applied for a long-term visa and was granted one year. The Indian embassy can grant anywhere from 1-10 years. Therefore, I have until December 27 to stay in the country, with a maximum of 180 days for a single stay. My return flight is Just before Christmas.

Some ask about the flight out there. As for me, I typically fly Qatar airways. It’s awesome, fancy, and they treat you really well (the food rocks!!!). Round trip flights are usually $800-900 if you plan ahead. You can fly out of Philadelphia or Newark and it’s 12 hours to Doha and 5 hours to Chennai, India. For this first leg of the flight I had the entire row to myself.. 12 hours with 3 seats to stretch out on. Such a blessing.

Doha has an incredible airport and it is a great spot to spend a layover. The architecture is modern, everything is clean, and it’s fun to explore the expensive stores and spas!

I am always so amazed by the diversity of people in this airport. I usually find time to grab a hot drink and watch the variety of people moving around me. Starbucks for the win.. even in Qatar..

It’s a long trip out there, as I depart Sunday evening and arrive very early Tuesday AM. I suppose you could say I’ve experienced time travel. My first two weeks will be spent traveling around South India before settling at SWAN yoga retreat. I’m on the train departing Chennai now and Will share these travels with you all soon...

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Two years strong (continued..)

May 2019: Spent an epic six days roaming Ireland with Brenda!

June 2019: Road trip around Washington State with Ramya exploring Mt Rainier, North Cascades, and Olympic National Park

August 2019: Ramya and I completed Maryland AT challenge (hiked 42 miles of MD Appalachian Trail section in 17 hours)

August 2019: Aspen and Labor Day hiking in Colorado

September 2019: first time sailing on the Elk Neck River and a sweet end to an incredible summer

Phew! What a journey it has been. Couldn’t be more grateful for all of these experiences, friendships, and lessons along the way. Thank you to all who contributed to these incredible memories.

Next stop: India for over 3 months! I will be traveling for two weeks and then settling back in Goa for an intensive Karma Yoga program. Stay tuned here, where I hope to (actually try to) post on my time abroad in India.

“It is better to live your own destiny imperfectly than to live an imitation of somebody else’s life with perfection”

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Two years strong

Once again, I let almost two years slip by without blogging about my adventures. I suppose that means I’m staying present, but also means I have a lot more to catch you all up on. I’ll briefly list out the highlights from the last two years:

Dec 2017: Winter break and New Years Eve in Northern Maine

Jan 2018: First trip to India (Mumbai and Goa) to study and practice yoga

March 2018: First snowboarding trip to Western U.S. riding in Winter Park, Colorado

June 2018: Roadtrip in Utah/Arizona visiting Zion, Bryce, Arches, and Canyonlands National Parks. Also Antelope Canyon, Lake Powell, and Salt Lake City

September 2018: Was a witness for my best friend’s wedding off the coast of France on a tiny island in Brittany

... and after the wedding biked from Geneva to Interlaken in Switzerland

October 2018: work trip to San Diego California

November 2019: birthday backpacking trip through ice storm in Shenandoah National Park

Jan 2019: second trip to India, traveling around Chennai/ Tamil Nadu and revisiting SWAN yoga retreat in Goa

Spring 2019: Various backpacking trips including Appalachian Trail, Dolly Sods, Harpers Ferry, and other North East gems

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I used to be somewhat better at blogging, but still not the greatest. I read lots of my blogs from friends that travel, cook, do yoga, etc. It is a great way to keep posted on the lives of so may people that are circling around this world. It has been almost 2.5 years since I posted here, but it really feels like 10 with all that has happened, evolved, and changed. I will take you through a mini tour of the travels that I have done since backpacking Europe in the late winter of 2015 with Marie Laure.

That summer in 2015, I went on a road trip with Brenda down to New Orleans. We drove through Asheville, her hometown of Mobile, AL, and I was able to spend a few days in Austin, TX with my good friend Rebecca (Nickname Beef). New Orleans had the best food I have ever had anywhere in my entire life. Here are some of the foods we ate.

The rest of that summer was a series of music festivals and smaller trips with family and friends all around the north east. Here is a photo from one of those trips up in Acadia National Park in Maine with my friends Genevieve and Catherine.

Shortly after that trip I moved to Columbia, SC and started my masters in Genetic Counseling at the University of South Carolina School of Medicine (Home of the Gamecocks). Living in the south allowed me to explore new places like Savannah, Atlanta, Charleston, and southern Appalachia.

Grad school was cool, but where I really lucked out was falling in love with yoga. I had always had a small interest in yoga, but early fall of 2015 I stumbled into a gem of a studio called Pink Lotus Yoga Center. If you knew me the last two years you already know about it. I got my yoga teaching certification here and made some of the most incredible friendships I have ever had here. Forever a special place where my roots have grown.. Words will never describe.

After completing my training in teaching yoga and semester one in graduate school, I had the opportunity to move to Scotland for the summer of 2016 where I worked at a major hospital in Glasgow. I worked in cancer/cardiac genetics for my summer rotation. Made wonderful friends and colleagues, and was really able to explore all around this beautiful country. Also visited London and Germany that summer while I was across the pond. The photo below is a bike trip I did on the Isle of Arran. Smiling was easier going downhill.

The winter of 2016 I was invited to enjoy Christmas abroad in Bavaria, Germany. What an experience it was to be apart of the Christmas markets in big cities and small towns. Plus I got to visit Salzburg and snowboard in the alps in Austria! Photo here is from Tegernsee, Germany.

Then I graduated (Thank goodness).

And after graduation and making my painful and dreaded move out of South Carolina I departed on a backpacking trip to South East Asia with my travel buddy, Marie-Laure. We traveled all around Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. This trip deserves quite a few blog posts, but I will leave it to one happy day off the coast of Phi Phi island in Thailand.

I flew from Hanoi, Vietnam directly into Rome where I met Chuck and Shar (parents) for a family vacation in Italy! Rome, Vatican City, Florence, Tuscany and vineyards, Venice.. the food.. the history.. Chuck’s jokes in a foreign country. Lovely memories. After Italy I went off on my own to visit some more friends in Belgium and Scotland before flying back to the U.S.

And now I am back and settled down. Working my first real job as a cancer genetic counselor in Delaware. Enjoying the Northeast once again with old and new friends and of course living close to family. I spend many weekends exploring Appalachia. Here is a photo from Backpacking Dolly Sods in West Virginia.

Now that I have caught everyone up on things, I want to use this blog to post on some of the more local adventures that I do. Lots of friends ask for hiking and traveling ideas in the area, and hopefully I can use this space to share the trips in detail. I have a few bigger trips lined up too.... but for now I will simply enjoy what is in my own back yard. Cheers!

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Granada, Cuenca, and Madrid Photos

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Soaked in Spain, Leaving trails all the way home

Spain. One of my new favorite countries to explore. Mostly because each city or village is entirely different: colors, cuisines, accents, terrain, and overall feel. Despite being the final hours, the last three destinations of my “euro-trip” were all so incredible and enjoyable. As I write this from my NJ bed, I am torn between the tapas that are now oh so far away, and my fresh pair of pajamas that I’m wearing in my own sheets in my own room!

GRANADA: A quick change of plans was certainly for the best. We headed south, and boy could you feel the African influence blowing across the sea. The small city is extremely influenced by Moroccan culture, and the street corners are messy with barrels of teas, colorful clothing, and shiny big jewelry. My favorite part about Granada was how incredibly cheap it is! Free tapas with beer? Yes, that is correct. With a 2euro glass of beer, one can choose from various delicious tapas that are free with your drink! What a brilliant idea! Not only Is the city the cheapest that we visited, but the most beautiful in a detailed and historical way. The town sits within a valley that’s been cut with old streets lined in gorgeous doorways, mosaic tiles, and street artwork. The river flows beneath the Alhambra, one of the most famous and beautiful places I’ve visited in my entire life. The palaces in the Alhambra have the most detailed and colorful mosaic and sculpted marble work in the world. The gardens are lush, vast, and provide panoramic views of the surrounding snow capped Sierra Nevadas (the ones in spain of course). Reflecting pools and fountains are in every square, and the history among the grounds is hard to wrap your head around. ML and I really enjoyed exploring Granada.. And even stumbled on a fun and rewarding hike. Ate true Moroccan cuisine, and had another lovely set of hosts at our AirBnB! I highly recommend this place for anyone looking to visit Spain!

Cuenca: The enchanted city. Another amazing host family that we stayed with. Basically had a little sister for the two nights in Cuenca, and boy was she inspiring! A 13 year old who can speak English, Spanish, French, and some Russian, Japanese, and Hungarian! She’s an artist, eager to learn about the world, and has the most positive energy that I was grateful to feed off of! Anyways.. The inviting kitchen in Cuenca gave us some relaxing “nights in” where we could cook our own food to save on some money and enjoy the comfortable home we had. The outdoor life in Cuenca is unreal. Giant cliffs stand tall and fierce around the hilly city, and houses hang on top of steep natural walls of red/orange rock. We did a gorgeous hike in the sunny fresh air one morning up through the mountains and down along the turquoise River. Stopped by some old churches that happened to be on the trail, and enjoyed sunshine on a large grassy overlook with a 360 degree view of valley and cliffs below. It’s a huge sport climbing spot, so saw lots of people making their way up the face of the cliffs. (Wish I could have climbed!) The old city in Cuenca is much smaller and quieter than others we’ve seen. Any small detour can bring you out to an enchanting vista of the surrounding landscapes, or to neat archways and pathways along the cliffs. A magical place indeed.

Madrid: At first it was overwhelming returning to another giant city with taller buildings, traffic, and loads of tourists. After the first few hours miles of streets, I surprisingly felt safe and content in the biggest Spanish city. There’s loads to do there, but some of my highlights were Retiro park, a lovely green space with huge blue fountains and lakes. A good place to sprawl out and catch some rays in the warm sun.. Which I found myself doing often. Especially after big meals. San Miguel Market!!!!!! The cuisine highlight of the trip! A big indoor market with tiny stations of tapa bars, paella, pizza, and dessert bars, wine bars, sangria bars, seafood bars!!!!! All the tiny plates and drinks you can get for 1-4euro each. I think I went every day… Fresh mozzarella, empanadas, white sangria.. Gorgonzola wild mushroom pizza.. Ugh!! Too good. The Prado museum. El Rastro market: biggest market in spain with leather makers, jewelry, antiques, food, you name it. Lots of street performers at the markets and plazas that really were good! I found a neat brewery called Naturbier, which made some delicious natural beers.. Who knew Spain could do that? Visited the cathedral and palace in Plaza España, and got lost in some of the old streets downtown. A bittersweet goodbye to Marie Laure.. And a final sunset over Temple of Debod with golden sun reflecting all that I had done that month onto my face and into my soul. A wonderful place to end my backpacking trip through Europe.

New Jersey: After a long day of traveling through Madrid, Dublin, and NYC.. Here I sit in my own bed as the sun comes up in NJ. Crazy how easily we can now move around the world.. But how difficult it can be to see the many jewels and wonders that exists in life. It’s important to know that if you “just do it”.. One can spend a month, a week, 6 months exploring some of the most treasured places on the planet. What a whirlwind it was.. and overwhelmingly inspirational. Here I sit at home once again, an entirely new soul enriched in culture, people, art, and my own creations. I now have these memories to reflect on forever.. And can bring a little bit of that side of the world wherever I go. There is something so addicting about the magic that one gets when exploring. I’m so happy to be home.. With the walls that feel safest, the people that I love most, and with the opportunity to now share all that I have attained in a place that can be as unfamiliar as I choose to make it. Lots of big things are about to start blooming in my life. Couldn’t be more excited.. Forever grateful for this life! And the ability to wash clothes/shower whenever I want! Cheers!

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Sagrada familia, Mediterranean Sea, tapas, paella, Alicante, FC Barcelona game!

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España, the land of tapas..

Ah.. Spain. Warm sun, golden beaches, palm trees, and endless menus of tapas. Last week we took a bus from Montpellier to Barcelona and arrived in a new city that I have fallen in love with. A more tropical climate with miles of beaches, blue calm water, and sun hugging the edge of the city. Narrow echoing streets with colorful flags and laundry drying up above the cafes, tapa bars, and shops that decorate the city. After one night in a very fun and friendly hostel, we stayed in an apartment in the gothic quarter, the older part of town with the most history and character. Fortunately, We were able to stay in Barcelona for a solid 5 days.. But that's nowhere near enough time to see all that the city has to offer. Some of the highlights include: La Sagrada familia; the most extravagant church I've ever seen with colorful stained glass and modern architecture inside the building. The Park Guell; a gorgeous green park laced with mosaics and clay bridges and art all around the green space. A lovely musician played his lute under an archway.. I watched for awhile in the sun. Vespa ride along beach; made a friend who invited me for a ride on his scooter up the coast to explore the beautiful beaches! We had some Peruvian food for lunch! The Roman/ Gothic quarter; getting lost among the oldest streets in Spain and wandering in and out of cafes and shops. Barcelona game; went to my first European soccer match! Epic experience and had a blast.. Messi scored! And seeing some friends and family.. Ferran, Cristina, and cousin Dylan for awhile in the city. Always so cool to see familiar faces in new places. The food in Spain.. Too good. Tapas! Lots of small plates for sharing and tasting. Some of my favorites are the spanish omelets with egg, onion, and potato.. Ciabatta bread with crushed tomato spread and salt.. Fried Squid with lemon juice.. Crab and egg salad.. Potatoes in spicy sauces.. Etc. Had a true delicious paella at a fine restaurant on the Mediterranean sea. Enjoyed churros and Swiss chocolate.. That was too good! The fruit and vegetables are incredibly fresh.. And the wine is perhaps even better than France.. Sangria too.. But everything is much later here. People don't eat dinner until 10pm! So I decided to just eat 4 meals a day! More tapas for me! After Barcelona I went to visit an old good friend, Gillian, in Murcia (6 hours south of Barcelona). We arrived on her birthday, so that evening I had a really good time experiencing the night life in Spain. Gillian and her friends are teaching English here, and many of her friends are from Ireland, Spain, and various parts of the U.S. We all went to a cool bar that played fun 90s/classic rock music and danced all night. We got back too close to sunrise, and I think I now understand why things are much later here! Was awesome making lots of new friends from all over the world. We cooked lots of meals together and bought loads of the freshest food for Sooo cheap! Murcia happens to be the "growing capital" of Spain... And it's ridiculous how much produce you can get for such little money. Today a bunch of us did a day trip to Alicante. A town 1 hour north of Murcia. Alicante is like a classic beach town in Spain with gorgeous sandy shores, clear blue water, Palm trees, and colorful sunsets. It was lovely weather (70 degrees F), and we couldn't help laying on the beach for awhile. Enjoyed lunch and sangria by the sea, and ended the day hiking up to the Santa Monica castle before sunset! We enjoyed panoramic views of the city, sea, and surrounding mountains with golden sun reflecting off the colorful town. Spain really is so beautiful.. There's so much color to the buildings and vegetation. People are friendly and active and family-oriented. Things are much slower, and there's more appreciation for conversation, food, and art. I absolutely love it here! It's been cool practicing my Spanish, too! Our plans have changed a bit.. And tomorrow we decided to go to the historical city of Granada. One more week in Spain.. And one more week left for this Europe-trip.. And one more week of tapas!!!

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Rome in France

I finished off France in the south.. First to Avignon and Nimes, and then Montpellier. Avignon was a cool trip for me because I was able to visit one of my best friends from college. She's teaching English there so it was a "must-stop" for me. Avignon is a picturesque town with the oldest stone streets I've ever seen. Buildings are aged and filled with character and you can get lost in the narrow passageways from cafe to cafe. Interestingly, the old Papal Palace is in Avignon, a second one was built about a thousand years ago with the presence of so many French Cardinals and Popes during that time. It's a magnificently large and eerie castle with the perfect acoustics to sing songs when no one is near. A very interesting tour indeed! The Mistral was blowing strong.. A famous wind that whips through the town, so our outdoor adventures were limited. But we did take advantage of the food! Found 1 euro crepes de sucre.. And a cool cafe with tasty mulled wine! Lots of quirky shops to visit, a quick river walk near the famous Avignon bridge, and fun times spent with Catherine and Marie Laure cooking and catching up. We did one of my favorite day trips so far (I guess I have a few of these) to Nîmes: an ancient Roman city rich in history and well preserved ruins. We did a tour of the colosseum that lies in the center of town and learned a ton about gladiators. Saw an old temple that still stands, and hiked up to the watchtower that looks over the city. It's crazy to walk on these steps that are worn with foot traffic from thousands of years of people's steps. The parks, waterways, and layout of Nimes are just remarkable and left me in awe at every corner. To top it off we had a delicious lunch of galettes and sugar-salted butter crepes! Oh and that night we watched gladiator.. Just to end the day right! As soon as we arrived in Montpellier, I knew we were closer to Spain. The way people look, the sunshine, the architecture, types of restaurants. It's a bigger town with large plazas filled with hundreds of people sitting outside drinking wine under the winter sun. Street performers and antique venders decorated the streets, and people seemed to be happy and enjoying their days. We visited the botanical gardens, a great park with bamboo, various trees, and plants. Checked out some of the historical squares with golden statues, fountains, and wide vistas of the surrounding areas. The best part about Montpellier was that our AirBnB hosts ROCKED. As soon as we returned from dinner, they invited us to sit with them by the fireplace over wine, expensive cheeses, and chocolate. A kind, funny, and passionate couple from France who made us laugh and learn over various topics including: describing what american nursing homes are, french vs american schools, nature, cuisine, etc! What a fun night with the best new friends! I'm in Spain now and already have so much to say about that.. But I'll wait. I may never leave Spain.. Not even for France or Rome! Adios!

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Annecy Village, Basilica in Lyon, Biking Lyon, Paris, and Provins!

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Paris, Annecy, and Lyons, oh my!

Bonjour from France! I first arrived in Paris, a city that I have been to once before. This time I focused on seeing some of the non-touristy areas and enjoying the simplicity of such a romantic and beautiful city. I finally met up with my friend Marie-Laure, who will be accompanying me for the rest of this trip! We stayed with her grandmother in the 17th in Paris, and it was wonderful! (Paris is divided by "districts"). I was immediately greeted with fresh galettes: buckwheat crepes with an egg, cheese, and vegetables. Yum! Food was a constant theme and Macarons, chocolate, croissants, coffee, baguettes, crepes, french onion soup, wine, omlets, and cheeses of the highest quality filled my belly and soul everyday. One of my favorite parts of Paris are the outdoor restaurants and cafes, where you sit under heat lamps and people watch. There's tons to do in Paris, but we spent a day at the Musee de Orsay, an art museum that has tons of impressionist art by artists like Monet.. Incredible place! We walked many miles around the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, and river walks. We saw live gypsy jazz music at a super cool bar in east Paris that serves lots of local french beer. I was able to meet up with college friends, Manon and Derrick, who are both living in Paris.. That was awesome. ML and I took a day trip to the medieval city of Provins. This was a GREAT trip, a town with colorful stone streets, narrow creeks flowing in between homes, and a giant fortress surrounding the city. Overall, Paris was gorgeous, delicious, and enjoyable. Last weekend we took a train and headed south to the city of Lyon, where we have other friends living. Lyon is a much more colorful city than Paris.. With tons of giant churches making their presence in the hills that surround the town. The old part of the city is crooked, melancholy, and lined with cafes and art galleries to explore. We rented bikes and rode all along the Rhone River to the Parc de la Tête d'Ore, which has a lovely big green lake. Hiking up to the "Basilica of Lyon" was remarkable, and left us with a view of the glowing city among beautiful gardens that surround the church. The church itself is one of the most beautiful ones I've ever seen. There's gold trim lining the molding, mosaic tiles creating stories within colorful pictures lining the walls, and the vastness of the room.. It was just breathtaking. Lyon was a blast and I made lots of new friends and memories. One of my favorite days so far was the day trip to Annecy, a village in the French Alps, close to Switzerland. It was my first time seeing the Alps, and boy.. Are they fierce, jagged, and majestic. We ate lunch at the Annecy Lake overlooking the surrounding snow-capped mountains, and I was just so happy. The town is like a ski village with quaint houses and snowy streets with the smell of campfire warming the air. Since we rented a car, we were able to hop out and walk along some of the tiny villages along the way that had ruins, churches, and flowing rivers to enjoy. It was just so great and I can't believe how the geography and culture of France varies throughout the country! I've moved further south and am excited to explore more of this wonderful place.

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England! Newcastle, Tynemouth, and tea!