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Changing Policy on Fan Merch

There were a few reasons I instated this policy. However, after talking to a lawyer, it seems like allowing certain things won’t really hurt Temmie or Fangamer (my friends). So things will become more lenient.

Now, I won’t stop individual fans from selling the following items at cons:

- Prints, charms, buttons, keychains, stickers, etc. - Most handmade items - Undertale zines/fanbooks/doujinshi

Regarding Music:

-You can sell your cover songs on iTunes and other stores but please license them. - You can license UNDERTALE cover songs through Loudr, or distribute it via companies that license it for you (like Soundrop, Distrokid, or CD Baby) - Please don’t use any sound effects from the game or samples from the original songs. - You can make your own sheet music for free, or sell sheet music through SMP Press: https://smppress.sheetmusicplus.com/ - Yes, you can perform UNDERTALE music at conventions/at a concert/at your school. Please inform us if you’re an orchestra or something though. For any questions about licensing/performing music, please contact Materia Collective (publishing@materiacollective.com)

However, restrictions exist:

- You cannot use the UNDERTALE logo or put the name UNDERTALE on it, as it is trademarked. (Weird, right!?) - No t-shirts, apparel/clothing,* or machine-made figures or machine-made plushes. - Do not sell merch via Redbubble, zazzle, or other large online store. - No, you still can’t do Kickstarters or crowdfunding campaigns for UT-related things. - If you’re a company (like Sharkrobot or Hot Topic or something) you cannot sell UNDERTALE merch of ANY kind. - Do not compete with official merch & acknowledge my copyright. If necessary, I can halt any unofficial item’s sale. (Really don’t want to ^^;;) - If this change turns out to be actually bad, I can reverse the decision. - If you sell, please have played the game.

* Exception: if someone hand-made a few scarves, hats, cosplay, or accessories, it’d probably be OK. But if mass-produced, it could become a problem.

When in doubt, if hand-made and few, it’s OK. If mass-produced and machine/factory made, it’s not OK.

PS - One-off art commissions of UT characters are still OK, online or offline.

PPS - If engaging in UNDERTALE activities at a con (selling, cosplaying, etc.), try to be respectful and give a good impression. Overall, UNDERTALE’s had a positive effect on people who have played it. It’d be nice if it could have a positive effect on the rest of the world, too.

[madartsxiii]

A little something I’ve always wanted to do- Special effects from the 1920’s to the 1940’s.

For the sake of sanity, I left off some details of the traveling matte processes…. them’s pretty complicated things!

(Hm I gotta work on my graphic design chops…. gettin kinda rusty)

[madartsxiii]

Animation techniques and effects from the classic era. For more vintage movie geekery, check out my Old Hollywood Special Effects, and my Early Color Film Processes posts! (And while you’re at it, take a look at my art blog, why don’t ya?)

[madartsxiii]

The Animation Process - redux. I originally made this set last year and I decided to upgrade it with a few higher quality pictures.(I also removed one that I recently discovered to be a reenactment) All clips date from 1935 to around 1944.

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Concept art by Mary Blair for Disney’s Alice in Wonderland (1951)

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Layout drawing.

Flies Ain’t Human (Fleischer, 1941)

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threw together a quick little narrated video showing the Photoshop layer breakdown for my Valentina piece! It’s actually a pretty simple process when you get down to it 👌🏼

[madartsxiii]

i am in love with the 80s anime aesthetic you used for that amethyst drawing!! what programm do you usually use for drawing and how did you create that fuzzy effect?

hank you, im really glad you like it! I usually use SAI to draw and Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0 (yes its absolutely ancient i knooow) to add certain effects i cant quite recreate in SAI

to get that fuzzy effect, i have the entire image on one layer and duplicate it, changing the opacity of the copy to around 30-40%

then i hide the copy for a bit, and select the background. there, i apply the “diffuse” filter found right here:

the “lighten only” mode, creates a base to get that “scanned pencil lines” look which helps to make it look more like a screencap of an older anime. 

(i found that this works best with clear lines and cell shading)

then, still on the background layer, i get a gaussian blur filter going, found over here:

a radius of 1-2 pixels blurs the whole deal out a little to make it look like its a good ol low quality screencap

then i go back to the other layer and, using the same gaussian blur filter but a radius of 15-20 pixels, get that foggy feel going!

this step is the most important as it creates that dreamy, foggy feeling which helps to make it look like ye olde animes

lastly, i clean up some highlights that might’ve gotten washed away by all the blurring, and we’re done!

of course you can always do more things like add a texture to make it a little grainy, or resize the canvas to fit the average dimensions for most old animes, or do something difficult and technical with the colors which i know nothing about, but i feel like this process is a pretty alright method to satisfy those ~ a e s t h e t i c ~ cravings!

(quick before/after)

i hope this helps, im sorry this turned out so long…..feel free to ask me to clarify if anything isnt clear!

[madartsxiii]

In conclusion, obrounds.

Sorry for the long post (I think it’s most legible in this format but yikes it’s long)

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A little pictorial on making cartoons during the studio era. Clips date from 1935 to around 1944.

(Am I the only one who finds it extremely satisfying to watch an animation cel being painted? It’s almost like sorcery.)

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Ahaha Someone asked me for some tips on how I draw simple muscles. Unfortunately, my inbox glitched on me again and that message was no where to be seen. I apologize to that person who sent me it and, hopefully, I can make it up to you with this.

This is a short and simple tutorial.

I just use basic shapes that goes well together. Mainly, these two shapes, oblong and square, when I draw big characters.

The arm muscles are basically like big curves to me.

Apply this with a line of action and this is what you get.

Your muscles don’t necessarily have to be big. They could be slim, long, round and etc.  This could also work really well if you have the basic anatomy down, but don’t stress about it. Just simplify them as much as you can without stressing over perfect details.

[madartsxiii]

a small glitter tutorial that is badly cropped and vague i am sorry

hopefully this helps some people though!! This tutorial is for clip studio paint or photoshop mostly but im pretty sure you can do it with any program that has particle brushes! 

Repost with credit is okay?? yes

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part 1 | part 2

in which a skeleton comes very close to socking a horse in the nose

to be fair the horse had it coming

thanks for coming to my story time!!

i think it went rly well…!

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Backgrounds and projectiles of fandom frenzy

[madartsxiii]

RAPTURE, BIOSHOCK INFINITE: BURIAL AT SEA (2013)

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New upcoming game I'm working on with a team, the game is MonochromeRPG :^)

[madartsxiii]

i don’t know where anything is on clipstudio but the brushes are 👌