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It makes me rethink myself as a fashion designer in the future.

Raf Simons’ on fashion’s social media ‘bullshit’

“Will all that stuff still be relevant 30 years from now? I don’t think so”

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Self Evaluation 2

  Sustainability is the ongoing topic, as it is crucial to maintain biological systems, in which to diverse and productive indefinitely. I have witnessed fashion is one of the most polluted industry when I did my internship at a fashion company in China.  There was load of fabrics and water were wasted in production lines. The experience had made me think about what actions need to be taken to cut down the cost on environment in fashion industry. The question remained unsolved until the third session of the class had introduced me to bio fabrics. The process of making the fabrics is similar to corrosion. There is no extract energy,such as electricity, needed for for the whole process. It takes the natural process of corrosion into the fabric making, hence to reduce wastes. Suzanne Lee, who I have done a research on  for my previous blog post , is the pioneer in bio fabric project. She is pushing the idea forward , hence to produce her biocouture in a bigger scale. Environmental-friendly is the keyword for the future trend.

   We can not ignore the impact of technology on our life , as it has changed the way how we communicate and connect with others. Fashion is also taken technolgy seriously. From live streaming fashion show to wearable tech, technology has given fashion a new life and excitement. With the newest technology, such as 3D printer, designers can make their wild dream come true. Clothing is not just does its job for getting enhanced or utilitarian means, but for new and innovative way to express oneself.  

  Although we will not fully get hand on experimenting all the materials which has been introduced in material innovation classes,it has taught me a lot about the future, and how designs can be part of our life and live with them. I believe that technology and substainability are the trend,  they will not fade away with times.  

Bibliography:

Images from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/386887424209104082/;https://styleroaming.wordpress.com/tag/martinmargiela/; http://valleygyal.tumblr.com;http://www.ecouterre.com/makerbot-unveils-3d-printed-flexible-filament-dress-at-ny-fashion-week/;http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2014/sep/22/-sp-wearable-technology-clothes-that-let-you-download-the-latest-look

Wikipedia,. 'Sustainability'. N.p., 2015. Web. 6 Dec. 2015.

Biocouture,. 'Home'. N.p., 2015. Web. 6 Dec. 2015.

The Creators Project,. 'Make It Wearable Part 3: Human Expression | The Creators Project'. N.p., 2015. Web. 6 Dec. 2015.

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Self Evaluation 1

  In the first session of material innovation, we were given the introduction of the origin of raw materials, such as steel, sand, and plastic,etc. I was impressed by the way how the materials had been processed into everyday objects. By defining their properties, for example, the state of a material will change when it reaches a certain level of temperature, Markus Kayser had developed a solar sinter solar-powered 3D printer. In his practice by taking the Earth’s natural resources and turning them into a practical pieces of advanced technology, it has opened my eyes and inspired me to experiment with natural elements in my textile project. Moreover, I have acknowledged that it is important to research on the history of a material, and how they have been developed in term of their making and innovation process, since these information will be useful for me to find material manipulation possibilities within textile contexts. 

  Following the topic of discovering the origins of materials, we were lucky to have Thomas Thwaites in the second session of material innovation. I knew him beyond the time he lectured us. I met him in Brick Lane at the time he exhibited his goat project. He did an investigation on goat life by giving up human life and living as a goat for 3 days in Swiss Alps. I was deeply admired him, as he has a strong strength and determined attitude that I could sense from his goat project. It was definitely a little bit overwhelming when I knew that I would meet him again. Basically, what he had done for the toaster project was referencing back where the materials came from before they were made into a product. A quote,"Left to his own devices he couldn’t build a toaster. He could just about make a sandwich and that was it”,from a book titled Mostly Harmless and written by Douglas Adams in 1992, had clicked his mind. From that on,he started to deconstruct a toaster and investigate every single component inside of the machine. Tracing back to the origin of each component was made, he went to minefield to get his own mine to make steel and searched for helps from professor. The whole process had taken a year to complete.From his experience, I found out that taking video was a good way to document the process of a project, most importantly, collaborating and sourcing helps from someone who is not in your pathway can diverse the perspectives of a project.

Images from  http://valleygyal.tumblr.com;http://www.engadget.com/2011/06/26/solar-sinter-solar-powered-3d-printer-turns-sand-into-glass-ren/;http://www.thomasthwaites.com/the-toaster-project/

Bibliography:

Engadget,. 'Solar Sinter Solar-Powered 3D Printer Turns Sand Into Glass, Renews Our Faith In Higher Education (Video)'. N.p., 2015. Web. 6 Dec. 2015.Thomasthwaites.com,. 'THOMAS THWAITES » The Toaster Project'. N.p., 2015. Web. 6 Dec. 2015.

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Video from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjrhxNsxq60) 

Lady Gaga wore the world’s first flying dress. 

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Seminar 2

  I have found that I am interested in how digital revolution has influenced fashion  industry. Studio XO created the first flying dress in the world, which was wore by Lady Gaga, one of the most popular singers worldwide. The dress has celebrated the digital revolution in 21st century, and at the same time symbolise female liberation. It has sent a message to us, mostly to women that we have to be strong both inside and outside; and not afraid to fight for the equal right. 

   The studio is formed by Nancy Tilbury and Ben Males, who stood by the sides of flying suit, in 2011. It was the first time that they collaborated with pop singers, “digital mermaid bra” wore by rap female singer Azealia Banks and LED stage wear for Black Eyed Peas were designed by the team.Their fashion pieces are all about turning fantastical ideas into reality. 

   The flying dress is motivated by electricity produced by battery in six booms hidden in hexagon formation. It was working as a vehicle, instead of running separated from the human figure, the vehicle was on the body. Although the dress is not practical, the concept within it can be broken down to small ideas , such as putting technological devices , that helps to update human well-being,  into fashion design, and puzzle them together to make the concept more practical. The battery-motivated dress was still in testing phrase while Lady Gaga was wearing it in front of the public, it was rose up to 70 inches in the test. The construction of the dress was not a gown with perfect sewing techniques and time-consuming embroideries, in Tilbury words,” It’s feminine technology, there’s a certain elegance to it.” 

      In the interview with Creator Project, founder Tilbury said "The only real space where fashion has become digitized is by bringing in e-commerc." Whether or not fashion will be completely digitised  in the future, the question remains unknown. However, it is clear that Studio XO is ready to bring tech clothing to the masses. 

Bibliography:

Images from http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2014/sep/22/-sp-wearable-technology-clothes-that-let-you-download-the-latest-look; http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/lady-gaga-unveils-flying-dress-article-1.1512723

The Creators Project,. 'Designing Flying Dresses And The Future Of Fashion, Meet Studio XO | The Creators Project'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Nydailynews.com,. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Compton, Nick. 'Studio XO, The "Fashion Laboratory" Adding Digital Light And Magic To What We Wear'. the Guardian. N.p., 2014. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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Video fromhttps://vimeo.com/68293670

(no)where(now)here : 2 gaze-activated dresses by ying gao from ying gao

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  Lecture 7

 Clothes will be atomically illuminiated when someone stares at them, it sounds unbelievable. However Ying Gao, a Geneva based fashion/textile designer reach her success on making garments with eye-tracking system.The gazed-activeated dresses will respond to the observer’ gaze by activating tiny motors to move parts of the dresses in mesmerising patterns.

 The project was tilted (NO)WHERE (NOW)HERE, it was inspired by an article -"Esthétique de la disparition" (The aesthetic of disappearance) by Paul Virilio (1979).

"Absence often occurs at breakfast time – the tea cup dropped, then spilled on the table being one of its most common consequences. Absence lasts but a few seconds, its beginning and end are sudden. However closed to outside impressions, the senses are awake. The return is as immediate as the departure, the suspended word or movement is picked up where it was left off as conscious time automatically reconstructs itself, thus becoming continuous and free of any apparent interruption."

The dress on the left  is covered with tendrils of photo-luminescent thread that dangle from ruches fabric.The one on the right hand side is covered by glow-in-the-dark threads to form a base fabric. When the light is off, the threads will create an effect of glowing sea creatures. 

From her designs, we can see the potential the technology will change the way how we dress ourselves  in the future. It will not only consider how delicate or time-consuming a garment has made, the input of  technology will be taken count in the future of fashion. 

Her project reflected the impact of digital revolution in 21st century. It is time for us to rethink fashion and make the industry become more experimental and fun. 

Bibliography:

Image from http://yinggao.ca

Gao, Ying. 'Ying Gao - Designer'. Yinggao.ca. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Howarth, Dan. 'Gaze-Activated Dresses With Eye-Tracking Technology By Ying Gao'. Dezeen. N.p., 2013. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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(via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Xozzh_uHM) The first 3D printed garment wore by Dita Von Teese 

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 Lecture 6

 3D printing has been defined as the beginning of the third industrial revolution, according to futurologies Jeremy Rifkin. In 3D printing, successive layers of material formed under the control of a computer. The prototype of an object will be programmed on an application, and it will command and control the process of making three-dimensional object.

It will take three steps to construct a model. Modelling is the first step, creating a printable model on CAD package, via a 3D scanner or photogrammetry software. Inputing the information into a printer, then it will do its job-to construct the structure. The time-length of finishing construction depends on the size and form of the object. 

Since the technology of 3D printing is well-developed, the technique has been applied on different industry. Iris van Herpen, a Dutch fashion designer,  who prefer to build, construct, and sculpt with the materials instead of working with soft fabric in her haute couture collection. 

The skeleton-like corset is one of her well-known design, and the structure was constructed by 3D-printer. Following the trend,London based accessories desinger Catherine Wales has created these beautiful accessories pieces which can be adjusted on human body. The design idea began with a message to the fashion industry that there’s no need for size labels in our garments. Catherine believes that fashion industry need to embrace with the newest technology and hence to reflect where society is going on. 

The black cage-like garment wore by Dita Von Teese is the first 3D printed garment. It was a milestone in fashion industry, and the perfect example for the use of technology in fashion. 

Bibliography:

Image from http://www.additivefashion.com/iris-van-herpen-capriole-july-2011/;http://www.additivefashion.com/accessories-by-catherine-wales/;http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/1952-revealing-dita-von-teese-in-a-fully-articulated-3d-printed-gown.html

Pleatfarm.com,. 'Capriole By Iris Van Herpen'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Perepelkin, Paulina. 'Accessories By Catherine Wales - Additive Fashion'. Additive Fashion. N.p., 2013. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Shapeways.com,. 'Shapeways Blog - Revealing Dita Von Teese In A Fully Articulated 3D Printed Gown'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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Comparison: CLOUD and HEARTBEAT are both displayed in public as art installation, and at certain point, they have the same concept behind the design, which is sustainability; it is a huge subject in these time, since our planet has been struggled with serve climate change and pollution. They act as a medium to educate people and make people think. 

In term of the structure, these two art pieces look quite similar-overlapping objects, and both are  made of daily objects(balloons and light bulbs). These form of art work is more preferable to be showcased in outdoor/indoor common places,in this case, market square. 

Bibliography:

Video from https://vimeo.com/49748983

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  HEARTBEAT had been displayed as a public installation in Covent Garden for a month in August, 2015. It was made by a French artist Charles Pétillon. 100,000 white balloons( some were installed light bulbs inside) were hanging on the ceiling. The 19th century building was totally blend in the bubbling sculpture. The wave of white hit the red brick building and bright it up. It was a magic whip, it brought back the liveness to this building, and at the same time presented the possibilities or potential to combine the contemporary elements into a historical building. 

Charles Pétillon said: “The balloon invasions I create are metaphors. Their goal is to change the way in which we see the things we live alongside each day without really noticing them. With Heartbeat I wanted to represent the Market Building as the beating heart of this area – connecting its past with the present day to allow visitors to re-examine its role at the heart of London’s life.”

In his quote, I had witness a successful marketing strategy and commerciality of the fine art. 

Bibliography:

Image from http://qz.com/489660/photos-a-beautiful-ethereal-installation-of-100000-balloons-comes-to-londons-covent-garden/

Coventgarden.london,. 'Up, Up And Away For Covent Garden’S New Art Installation'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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 Lecture 5

    CLOUD is an interactive art piece created by two talented Canadian artists,  Caitlind r.c. Brown & Wayne Garrett. The audiences have became a part of the artwork, as the matter of fact they can turn the lights on/off by pulling the strings. The light bulbs are no different from those we use in our daily life, they are all domestic. However the way how they have been put together made an spectacular visual impact and impression to the viewers. The structure has brought these daily objects into life and defined them as a piece of art. 

  The artists collected brunt out light bulbs from the surrounding community,as a part of the process of creating the sculpture. The sculpture itself has acted as an alert to warn the audience how crucial to rethink everyday object in substantial and alternative contexts. 6000  incandescent light bulbs were supported by the handmade steel substructure, with the pull strings which control the light bulbs, the sculpture would be manipulated in different brightness and forms. 

  Making connection with the viewers physically in one’s artwork, it’s a phenomenon, as the fact that it helps us to understand the concept of a art piece that artist put within. 

Bibliography:

Image from http://www.awesomefoundation.org/fr/projects/13579-cloud

CLOUD,. 'CLOUD'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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TED Talk with Suzanne Lee about her biocouture project. 

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Lecture 3

  Suzanne Lee, founder of Biocouture Ltd.(the world’s first biodesign consultant company , is constantly collaborating with the scientists and bring their knowledges into fashion industry,It has opened up a new perspective on textile production, instead of directly using raw material such as cotton and wool, micro living organism- bacteria is taking the lead. 

  It was all started up with a conversation between Suzanne and a scientist she met some years ago, he asked her why not completely rethinking the way how to make a dress. The question had brought her back to her studio. She tested different ways to produce bacteria by changing the temperature and covering. The raw materials she used in her experiment were easy to find and low-cost, they are green tea, sugar and a few microbes and a little time.It is named kombucha recipe, which is a symbiotic mix of bacteria, yeasts and other microorganisms(Edition.cnn.com). The tiny threads in liquid will be formed into a mat, hence to become a vegetable leather. In commercial wise, it can reduce the cost on raw materials; and most importantly, it’s environmental-friendly.

   Although she has achieved to make vegetable leather in her lab, the key concern for her invention is how to make it scaleable for mass production.In her TED talk, she had mentioned there was a number of people asked her the same question about how to expand her vegetable leather into scale, which led her to think about a more high-tech route where can enhance the material properties and process for industrialised high  value production and simplified the process of making vegetable leather. 

 Despite from the fact that the bio fabric can be decomposed, it also can be dyed in colours and laser cut in patterns. There’s no doubt that her innovation will be widely used in future fashion industry. Moreover, there is no waste in the process, which can benefit for the sustainability and the earth we live in.

Bibliography

Image from  http://www.biocouture.co.uk/#biofabricate-section

Biocouture,. 'Home'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

Edition.cnn.com,. 'How To Grow Your Own Clothes'. N.p., 2015. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.

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(via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjEBwiMQ3qE)

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Lecture 2

    Anrealage autumn 2015. Creative director of the brand Kunihiko Morinaga has achieved a successful crossover between fashion and technology in his latest collection, with a touch of sensations and optical illusion. The collection was backing up with a concept of lighting up the dark, it has been presented by a series of black structural silhouette garments that will reveal their colourful prints only under uv light. Photosensitive, that is what the magical fabric has been called by the press, is a term refers to a process of the substance(fabric) attributes muting as it meets radiation. In this case, the fabric has been reacted with the heat which the uv light provided to produce the colour patterns. 

   The collection is really experimental and well scientifically researched, in term of its fabrication. It has pushed fashion forward and toward a different direction. 

    Photosynthesis is a process which is used by a plant to transfer light energy into chemical energy that will be stored in the bond of sugars(Biology.clc.uc.edu). The process had been applied in product design. It is different from what Kunihiko had done in his fashion design, a Dutch designer Marjan Van Aubel, who is a graduate of Royal College of Art Design Product(MA), made a desk with solar panel that can generate electricity to recharge gadgets.Inside the orange glass panel, a dye-synthesised solar cell which uses the properties of colour to generate energy to produce electrical current is installed. It is similar to how plants use  green chlorophyll to convert sunlight into energy(Dezeen). Placing small particles of titanium dioxide on a piece of transparent orange glass is the techniques she used for making the desk panel. The glass is dyed in orange, as the fact that this  specific colour can help titanium dioxide absorb sunlight more efficiently.  

    From these two brilliant designs, we acknowledge the importance of  sustainability and recycle energy in both fashion and product design.It is a new way to think about designs, to care our mother earth and break the boundaries between science and design.

Bibliography:

Image from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/anrealage; http://www.dezeen.com/2014/03/11/an-orange-glass-table-doubles-as-a-phone-charger-using-hidden-solar-panels/

Biology.clc.uc.edu,. 'Photosynthesis'. N.p., 2015. Web. 4 Dec. 2015.

Dezeen,. 'The Current Table By Marjan Van Aubel Features A Solar Panel For Charging Mobile Phones'. N.p., 2014. Web. 4 Dec. 2015.

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Plaster artwork inspired from the flexibility of fabric. The project is called Grompies and is done by Brendon Carlin and fellow students at the Architectural Association Design Research Laboratory.

Dissoluble fabrics has been stitched in layers to create hollow structures.

Images from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/396668679654822513/