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Fashion is not an emotion, Doctor. 

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Pal's Pro Pet Tip #4: Hamster Enclosures

Today we're gonna touch base on how to set up an enclosure for another pet care underdog: the hamster.

I'll be real with you--until I started researching them a few years ago, I was really afraid of hamsters. I got bit by my neighbor's syrian as a kid and it scarred me.

Turns out that most hamsters--including the one that bit me--don't receive the proper care. I'd be mean too, if I were living in such unfit conditions.

So how do you get a happy hamster? You give them a good home!

Step One: Choosing an Enclosure

I'm gonna be real with you.

I have never seen an appropriate cage for a hamster at a chain pet store. In fact, I don't think I've seen one at privately owned pet stores, either.

That's because 1. hamsters aren't climbers, and so anything with tubes and levels is inappropriate and 2. hamsters need WAY more unbroken space than people realize.

How much space? Depends on the hamster. I'd recommend 800 sq inches of unbroken floor space for a dwarf hamster and 1000 sq inches of unbroken floor space for a Syrian (also known as teddy bears or fancy bears). Note that bigger is always better, and you can't really make an enclosure too big.

"That's too much space! I don't have that kind of room!"

Me neither! And that's why I don't have a hamster.

There's a few avenues you can take to get enough space for your hamster:

handmade bin cages

DIY detolf cages

Purchased cages

(thank you r/hamsters for the links!)

Step Two: Bedding

Hamsters like to burrow! And as such, they need a large amount of bedding so they can dig and tunnel. I recommend at least 10 inches of bedding.

You're looking for a bedding that is unscented, dust-free, absorbent, and can hold a burrow.

Your best options for this are kiln-dried and dust-free aspen or unscented paper bedding.

Even if your hamster ends up being the type that decides not to burrow much, you still need this much bedding! At the very least, it absorbs their waste and the ammonia smell.

Step Three: Exercise

First thing to know: Hamster balls are bad!

They make it hard to breathe for the poor things, and the vents that's meant to make it easier can get their little feet stuck. Plus they can fall off things or get bumped or kicked. I do not recommend balls at all.

But your hamster DOES need a wheel!

It's important that your hamster's back doesn't arch while they're on the wheel. For dwarf hamsters, this means an 8 inch wheel or larger. For syrians, I'd go at least 12 inches.

I know people really like Niteangel wheels!

If you notice your hamster's back is arched when they're running, upgrade to a larger wheel to avoid skeletal damage and back pain.

A wheel is essential--this is what gives hamsters the ability to run as much as they would in the wild!

Step Four: Enrichment and Decorations

Hamsters like clutter! It not only gives them things to do, but it also makes them feel safe. Clutter can include:

Lots of hides (made of wood or ceramic, because they WILL chew on them)

A sand bath (not fine sand. You can use play sand, but it needs to be baked and sifted first)

Sprays of seeds and hamster-friendly dried plants (stuff like barley is great)

Wooden chews and toys

Wooden platforms and bridges for them to climb over, under, and through

And then hamsters obviously need water and food as well.

You can also use cardboard and wood glue to build your own enrichment for your hamster! Stay away from cloth and plastic, because you don't want your hammy digesting these.

You can't really over-clutter a hamster's enclosure, so go wild!

And that's it!

It's a far cry from the brightly-colored bar cages we know and hate. Hamsters are a much bigger commitment than people realize--even with their shorter lifespans. In my opinion, they're not necessarily great pets for kids, but that's how they--and their enclosures--are marketed.

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Pal's Pro Pet Tip #3: The Nitrogen Cycle

One thing that drove me crazy working at a pet store was this idea that we pushed where you could add a fish to a tank after running it with a water conditioner and filter for 24 hours. Like, that was all it took to make a healthy tank. And then people's fish would die, and they'd be mad, and it was a whole thing.

That's because it's not that simple! There's a whole thing we're forgetting (or ignoring, I guess.)

The Nitrogen Cycle!

"Pal, what the hell is a nitrogen cycle?"

Oh boy, am I glad you asked. Basically, the living things in your tank--fish from their waste and extra food, plants in the form of decay--release ammonia. Ammonia is very harmful to living things. Luckily, there's bacteria that feeds on ammonia and turns it into nitrites, which are less harmful than ammonia but still not great. But there's more bacteria that feeds on that and turns it into nitrates, which are only harmful in high amounts!

Keep in mind that Nitrates don't go anywhere, so that's why water changes are important. We'll touch base on that in a bit.

So basically, when you set up a new tank, you want to get this cycle established so that it can handle the waste your tank produces and keep it within safe levels for the fish. There's fish-in cycling too, but I'm a big proponent of fishless cycling to avoid potential harm to the fish (unless you got the fish already, in which case you should do a fish-in cycle the best you can!)

How to Cycle a Tank

Cycling a tank is, in my experience, a lot of fun. It makes me feel like a scientist. What you're gonna need:

An ammonia source (either cheap fish food or straight ammonia meant for aquariums--I used Dr. Tim's brand)

A testing kit (the liquid API Master Test kit is going to be the most accurate and is well worth it)

I'm gonna give a pretty surface-level summary here, but here's a page with a more in-depth explanation

Basically, you're gonna add an ammonia source (but not too much! You want between 2 and 5 PPM on your test kit) as much as necessary until the tank is cycled. You'll test as you go to make sure you're within the correct parameters. After about a week, you'll start checking to see if your tank has nitrite in it. If it does, your cycle has started! The bacteria is starting to grow! If not, just keep on keeping on. It'll show up eventually. After the ammonia goes down and the nitrites go up, you'll eventually get nitrates, and you'll know your cycle is almost over.

Your cycle is complete when you an add a full dose of ammonia and after twenty-four hours, you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and a higher level of nitrate.

(That means it's safe for fish).

When I cycled my tank, I used ammonium chloride. I didn't need to add some every day, but I did test my water every day to see where it was at.

Be patient! It can take up to two months for a tank to cycle.

(Pro tip though: If you know someone that has an established tank, take some of their filter media to move your cycle along faster!)

How to Keep a Tank Cycled

So, after your tank is cycled, it needs two things to keep going: a continued source of ammonia and things for the bacteria to cling to.

The ammonia source is easy. Just add your fish! I recommend not adding too many at once and making sure your tank isn't overstocked. This will prevent an ammonia spike, which could be deadly.

The surfaces thing is a little more nuanced, but it's just some general rules of thumb to keep in mind:

Don't break down and clean your tank completely like, ever. The bacteria lives on your filter and in your substrate and on your decorations. If you clean everything, all that bacteria is going to die and your cycle will crash.

Don't do a 100% water change!! There's bacteria in your water column too. I recommend 20-30%. 50% in case of emergencies at MOST.

If you clean your filter, clean it in a bucket of tank water and not under a faucet/untreated water. The chlorine in tap water will kill the bacteria, and you'll have to start your cycle over.

The Importance of Water Changes

Nitrates are, in small amounts, harmless. Unfortunately, they can still do some damage if there's a lot of them! (I'm talking 80+ PPM)

They have nowhere to go--they don't turn into anything else--so the only thing to do is get rid of them. Live plants can help a lot with this, but the fastest way to remove nitrates is with a water change. Again, I'd do 20-30% every week or two depending on the size of your tank (smaller tanks need more frequent changes!).

This also has the added benefit of fresh water being added to your tank, which keeps those trace minerals in the water column that fish and snails and shrimp need to be healthy.

My recommendation for water changes is to get a siphon/gravel vacuum so you can get the debris out of the substrate as you go--this is where most of the waste is gonna hide that'll cause ammonia and such to spike.

Easy, right?

Okay, okay. I know that's a lot of information. But it's important to know! Any pet needs regular attention and care, and keeping your cycle going strong is an important part of that for your fish! With this, at least, it's very easy to fall into a routine. Your fish will thank you!

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Pal's Pro Pet Tip #2: Setting Up a Betta Tank

The betta fish is my favorite fish of all time. They're spunky, they're sassy, they're smart. But there are so many misconceptions about them that most don't get the quality of life they deserve.

Step One: Choosing a Tank

When I worked at a pet store, so many people came in and would tell me "I have a betta in a half gallon tank/vase/cup :)" and I would have to tell them "Hey. That's no good." The analogy I like to use is to imagine living in just your bathroom. You don't have much space to move around and you're surrounded by your own grime and waste. Is that how you'd want to live? Why would your fish want to live that way?

The bare minimum I recommend for a betta is 5 gallons, and even then I would only recommend that for a long-finned betta. Their fins weigh them down and make swimming harder. If you have a short-finned/plakat betta, I'd go 10 gallons or more. I had a plakat in a 36 gallon, and the only reason I moved him was because he was getting bullied (and tank mates are a whole other can of worms). But he used every inch of that space.

Bowls are not appropriate tanks for any fish! Including bettas!

Step Two: Supplies

Bettas need, at the bare minimum, a filter, a heater, and a thermometer.

Filters are important because they keep the water flow going and because they help establish a nitrogen cycle (there will be a separate post on this later) to keep your betta safe and healthy.

Wild bettas live in bodies of water with little to no water flow. They're not good at keeping up with a current. So if your filter is too strong, it's going to stress out your little guy and make it hard for him to swim. Especially in a smaller tank, I highly suggest a sponge filter! They limit the amount of flow in the tank while still cleaning the water.

As for heaters, I suggest an adjustable one. They're a little more than the preset ones, but they're more... you know. Adjustable. The ideal temperature range is 76-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

I prefer glass thermometers, but I hear digital ones are relatively accurate as well.

Step Three: Decorations

Bettas love clutter!!! It gives them things to do! Imagine an empty room. Now, imagine a room full of places to explore. Which room would you wanna live in? You can't really overcrowd a betta tank!

Some rules of thumb for decorating your tank:

Avoid any decorations that are rough or sharp. If you wouldn't be able to drag pantyhose across it without it ripping or tearing, it isn't appropriate for a betta's fins.

Lots and lots of plants! Live plants are best because they better replicate the natural environment of the betta. They're also WAY easier to keep alive than people realize! I don't have a green thumb with dry plants, but both my tanks are fully planted and it's one of my favorite parts of fish keeping. Still, if the idea is too intimidating, stick to silk plants and not plastic ones. The plastic ones can be too sharp for the little guys' fins.

Give them hiding places! I have driftwood for my little guy to swim in and around, as well as a few cute little swim-throughs and hides. There are so many hides out there--both natural and artificial--that you'll have plenty of options!

Have stuff towards the top of your tank! Bettas--especially those with long fins--are not the best swimmers. They also have an air-breathing organ called the labyrinth, so they need to have easy access to the top of the tank. I personally have some anubias plants on suction cups and a floating betta log, but you can also buy artificial leaves meant to stick to the side. Bettas love to sleep near the surface, and it's really cute!!

Step Four: Chemicals and Water

When you are finally ready to fill your tank with water, it's still not ready for a fish. First off, tap water has chlorine and other trace minerals in it that aren't safe for your fishy! So they need to be removed. Pet stores are really good about branding products specifically for bettas--but guess what! You don't need betta-specific products! They're usually lower quality and higher price. Some even contain aloe, which can coat the labyrinth and be harmful to bettas.

Get yourself some Seachem Prime and call it a day. It's a water conditioner that I trust above all others for all types of fish, bettas included (but there's no affiliation between me and them beyond how much I enjoy the product). You're gonna add one drop per gallon of water into your tank.

Then, you're gonna cycle your tank completely so it's safe for your fishy. Again, I'll make an in-depth post on this later--but basically you're establishing an ammonia cycle, so you should have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and somewhere between 20 and 40 nitrate. It can take a month or two to get here. But it's worth it to keep the little guys safe and healthy, right?

Oh, and another thing--don't use distilled water! It doesn't have essential minerals in the water--because it's been distilled--and can actually be harmful to your fish.

And that's it!

Put all of that together, and you've got a perfect little Betta house. When they're happy, you can really see their personalities come out, and their colors will be more vibrant!

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Pal's Pro Pet Tip #1: Dog Food

We're gonna start this blog off with a bang: selecting the right brand of food for your dog.

"But Pal," you say, "That sounds really boring. Surely it can't be that important."

Wrong.

There's a lot of nuance to dog food. It can get really complicated. But, luckily, it's also really simple.

First, what to avoid.

A lot of people think that the more "natural" foods are best. After all, dogs are descended from wolves. Shouldn't we be feeding them like wolves?

No <3

Here's a PDF of the potential dangers of feeding raw

TL;DR: There's a higher chance of bacterial contamination in uncooked foods. Additionally, there is a serious danger of nutrient deficiency when feeding homemade, refrigerated, or raw diets.

Even if you're not feeding raw, lots of brands will advertise themselves as "holistic" or "natural." In my opinion, this is a good reason to run away. Those are buzzwords. They mean nothing. They're not good for your dog because they're focused more on the marketing than the research behind their products.

Second, what to look for.

Lucky for you, there's an easy answer to all of this. But I'm gonna go through the finer details first.

What do we want, then? If natural is bad and raw is bad, then what is good?

Science. Science is good.

So, when you're looking for a food, I always recommend following WSAVA guidelines. (And we trust WSAVA because they're a global organization that has put decades into researching pet foods in order to make sure their needs are being met) I'm gonna summarize this below, but if this is too much to read, I'll simplify things at the end.

Basically, you want a brand of food that:

Has an Animal Nutritionist on staff. They have a nutritionist--who either has a PhD in Animal Nutrition or is certified by either the American College for Veterinary Nutrition or European College of Veterinary Comparative Nutrition. Many, many brands are like "Yeah we have a specialist :)" But fun fact: That's a title anyone can give themself. It means nothing. Another important distinction is that they are on staff--not an outside consult. They are always there overseeing the research and the process.

Has a trustworthy pet food formulator--someone with a Masters or Doctorate in Animal Nutrition. Maybe their Animal Nutritionist is cross-trained. Maybe it's someone else with a PhD. Regardless, it's not just anyone--it's someone that knows the intricacies of not only nutrition, but also how to handle raw materials and process food. These are things not taught in veterinary school, and they're certainly not things readily available to breeders or trainers.

Has a good quality control process. First off, do we know they meet Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) or European Pet Food Industry Federation guidelines? (That just means they meet the profile of nutrition a dog needs.) How do we know that? They should be running tests on their food pretty much constantly--ingredient validation, final diet nutrition analysis, toxicology, bacteriology, and packaging/shelf-life screenings prior to these foods being released.

Bonus: Dedicates themselves to product research and nutrition studies. This isn't a requirement of WSAVA, but it does show a dedication to the health of the animals they're feeding.

"Wow. That sure is a lot of information. How the hell am I supposed to check all that?!"

Good news.

Kind of.

Out of the hundreds of brands of pet food, there are five brands--FIVE--that meet all these requirements. Those brands are:

Iams

Purina (ANY purina brand--so Pro Plan and One are both good!)

Hills Science Diet

Eukanuba

Royal Canin

That's it. Those five brands have put in the necessary money, hours, and experience to make sure you're getting a science-based food that's good for your dog. Other companies may claim to be WSAVA approved, but don't be fooled. That's not a thing. It's not an accreditation organization. They simply offer guidelines that a brand does or doesn't meet. There's a sixth brand that funds the WSAVA, but they do not meet the guidelines!

Bottom line?

When recommending a brand of food, I stick to those 5 brands. There's a wide range of affordability within those brands, so there's something for everyone!

That being said, I also never shame someone for what they're feeding. Fed is best at the end of the day, and lots of people don't know better. You can educate and redirect, but the most important thing is that a dog is eating.