patchrework

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 19.

Inspiration for my shorts using reflective tape

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ASAP ROCKY - PATCHWORK.

Patchwork can be more than just fixing holes. Patchwork could also be embellishing garments with actual patches. 

I find this fit inspiring. it’s something I had recently thought about - alternative ways. 

Overall, patchwork is very versatile.. Has been used in countless ways over thousands of years to dress people, and has become a major trend in current times with battling fast fashion and keeping a sustainable world. 

Patchwork is a trend that will continue to grow and develop, it’s a trend that has never really left our sites, with designers releasing collections featuring making work using patches year after year. 

We will continue to see more mainstream patchwork garments as the world becomes more awaken to the damaging effects of mass produced cheap clothing. 

This project has been rewarding and challenging for me. i’ve learnt new techniques and skills, and it’s also highlighted to me areas where i need to improve. Patchwork is definitely an area i will keep on exploring further. 

Alternative patches. Making them from scratch.

I would also create the patchwork completey from scratch, to do this I would need to measure the pattern and fit patchwork into it, leaving a 1cm seam allowance all the way around,

Then like in the vide, iron down that excess seam allowance - leaving a crisp, clean finish!

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Remainder of my sketchbook pages.

The page above I wanted to attempt another illustration. Using discarded denim, I used small pieces and combined them almost like a jigsaw puzzle to get the finish i desired. The photo on the left, is a picture I found of tartan, with some patchwork, i felt like this was good to show how patchwork works with alternative materials and patterns.  

Again another illustration on the left. I used recycled materials for this such as: Metal from a can, Orange and reflective material from construction tape. I wanted to show some alternative outfits with materials around me. The piece next to this was my first patchwork sample. I used top stitching, and wanted to see how using different fabrics would work with each other. This sample was sufficient in showing this.

Sample above. I have tested screen print to see if it was a technique that I was going to use with my final piece. I decided to not use this technique as I felt like it wouldn’t add anything to my patchwork. The screenprint i felt was a little too unpredictable with the results. The page opposite, I used the felting machine in the embroidery room for the effect. i did attempt this on my final piece but it didn’t work very well due to the thickness of the materials all stitched together. Below this, i used elasticated string. This was a cool technique but wasn’t the effect I wanted. I used an embroidery hoop to stretch the material, so once i had stitched into it, it would cling together like shown above. 

The samples above. I used pleats and fringing. I thought this was a good technique but It just didn’t visually do much for me. I thought about incorporating this into my patchwork, but the patchwork does enough. I also used aqua film to expose the threads. I like using aqua film, the only issue is waiting for it to dry, and once it’s dried the plastic is lightly stuck to the threads, which is why I didn’t use this. If i had more time, it could be something i may use in future, to add to the embellishment. 

The sample on the other page is another patchwork I constructed with top stitching using recycled materials found. I had mistaken the plastic for aqua film, and found out only after I had wet the sample that it stayed fully intact. Never the less, i Thought this came out well. It looks good how you could potentially see through the patch if I had used plastic on my final piece. This is something i could consider for future pieces. 

Again, using recycled materials, experimenting with plastic and stitching patches using thread. 

Above is a photo of most materials that I had used in my final piece. I wanted to combine them all together. 

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Evaluation

I have now finished my patch reworked shorts. I decided not to patch the top because this would be too much happening for my liking in one outfit. Pairing these shorts with the top is a lovely finish, and one which could be popular.

Both of these garments are made from discarded materials that no longer served a purpose until i acquired them. 

In future I would work in denim to assure a cleaner and smarter finish. The material became challenging to work with at times. 

I would also construct the patch panels prior, stitching the whole patch in, instead of patch by patch as that did become time consuming. 

My inspirations are Christopher Raeburn, James Long, and Junya Watabe. 

I used a multitude of different stitching techniques such as top stitching, hand stitching, and zig-zag stitching. My final piece is also in line with current trends such as sustainability and reusability. I wanted to do my bit for the environment and instead of purchasing new fabrics for my project, use ones that had no purpose. 

I used an overlocker on the top to give it a raw finish. i felt this was more appropriate for the look I wanted and matched the shorts well. I would also use this on the seam of the shorts if I were to repeat the project. 

The top is an oversized boxy fit, with dropped shoulders. This works well with the current oversized trends. 

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Finished shorts.

Closer look at the patchwork - You can see where i have distressed the denim at the bottom of the denim patch. I felt this would add more texture to the shorts. 

On this left side, I have constructed some patches, which is inspired by abstract shapes from the German school, Bauhaus .

I have also used top stitching in some instance to join the patches together. I took this inspiration from Junya Watabe, a designer who has used this technique in his patchwork garments. 

This is the back. I didn’t want so much happening with the back. The Orange panels are quite powerful here and draw your eyes to them. I wanted to use these to show that you can use anything in fashion. 

Closer look - I have used the Denim seems to add more texture to the shorts. 

Overal I am satisfied with the item. I am going to make minor changes now to them so they will be ready for the exhibition. I am going to trim the Orange reflective strips on both sides, so they match in length. 

I decided I didn’t want to cover every area with patchwork, this is because I felt leaving some rawness of the original base layer helped portray a more rustic look. 

If i were to do this again, I would work with mainly denim, I think that it would be a cleaner finish, as well as a more responsive fabric to stitch with, not only this but also working with denim, it would be easier to use different techniques for embellishment, such as distressed, ripped, dyed denim. These shorts reminded me of the designer James Long, i have attached some images below of his 2015 patchwork.

Like James has done, i would distress some parts of the garment, and use contrasting fabric to make the piece stand out from the crowd. 

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Further update

I have now added further patchwork to the front. I’ve incorporated abstract shapes as the patchwork, taking inspiration from Bauhaus. “The Staatliches Bauhaus, commonly known as the Bauhaus, was a German art school operational from 1919 to 1933 that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught” Wikipedia. 

I’ve started to develop my patchwork before attaching it to the garment. i feel this is a better approach. Unfortunately I’ve had a few instances with the sewing machine where I have broken a needle, this is mainly from the fact that I’m using a domestic machine. If i were to do more garments, i should become more familiar with the industrial machine.

The reflective material on sewn down the leg is inspiration taken from designer Christopher Raeburn who I have showcased in my blog. 

The reason i have incorporated this into my design is to add to embellishment in a sustainable, recycled way; in line with my trends. I’ve achieved this using material that had been discarded. 

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Patchwork development

I am finalising the patchwork. I’ve decided to use a multitude of different materials for my patches. This will give the shorts an authentic rustic look, what is what i am trying to achieve. 

I have decided to use top stitching, as i want people to see the stitches, adding to the overall look. I think this works well as an embellishment, because it can add another layer of colour to the finish. It was this reason that I primarily used white thread, as it’s noticeable - i want it to be seen. 

The patchwork is starting to come together using traditional stitching and the domestic machine. 

I’ve made a few mistakes along the way, such as stitching each patch directly into the garment. For the next patches, i am going to sew them together first, and then i will stitch the whole patch onto the garment, this will look neater and save time. This fabric is quite challenging due to its elastic nature. 

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Final pieces. (The base).

Still yet to include the patchwork. I have the base layers ready. 

The process has been rewarding and challenging. The more I do it the more confident I become. it’s like everything in life, riding a bike for example! When I do this again I would make some changes. For example:

I would use an industrial machine instead of domestic. I need to gain more confidence with this machine so I need to use it. 

I would use different fabrics. I could even in future build the garment from patches completely, instead of stitching them onto a base layer. 

The shoulder on the top is dropped slightly too low, I would bring this up further in the pattern. I think this adjustment would make a nice difference. 

I used the overlocker around the sleeve and neck hem. I found this to be a nice finish, a raw look. 

This reminds me of the Maison Margiela top i posted earlier on my blog with the patch panels of different coloured fabric. 

I am going to stitch patches onto of these layers. 

I would adjust the arms in future and take them slightly further up on the pattern. 

I used the overlocker around the hem for a further custom finish. 

I chose to use cold colours of fabric for the base layer. I’m yet to introduce the patchwork. I may alternative the different coloured fabric on the panels. 

I’ve made these an oversized boxy fit, which fits in with current 2019 trends. The consumer pattern seems to be pushing for more relaxed fit clothes, along with gym wear. 

I’m looking forward to experimenting with some more fabric! 

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History of patchwork

Patchwork is seen as a form of needlework that sews together pieces of fabric into a larger design. Another name for this is also called ‘pieced work’.

Patchwork is a technique that dates back around five thousand years to early age China and Egyptian tombs. Most often, it was used to make quilts but also bags, wall-hangings and other items of clothing.

Patchwork quilts, as a popular piece of global history, was found in all cultures across the world.

A woman holding a vintage state quilt, Pie Town, New Mexico

Once considered a sign of poverty, patchwork pieces represent nowadays treasured heirlooms sewn together for a unique and eye-catching result.

Patchwork was also observed during the early Middle Ages, where layers of quilted fabric were used in the construction of Armor, keeping soldiers warm and protected in a similar way to the Japanese Armor.

Due to the colder climate in Europe around the 14th century, the incidence of the use of bed quilts developed the practice of embellishing a simple cloth through the creation of pattern and design in a decorative way.

In America, patchwork increased during the Great Depression as a way to recycle worn clothing into warm quilts. Instead of quilting, the layers are sometimes tied together at regular intervals with pieces of yarn, a practice known as tying or knotting.

The Quilt art is now established as a legitimate artistic work, representing thousands of dollars to corporate buyers, galleries and museums.

In Asia, ‘Kaudhi’ is the art of stitching blanket using different small pieces of cloth in Karnataka, which are used as gifts to new-born babies. Patchwork is also done in various parts of Pakistan as the ‘ralli’.

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Construction of top

Here I am cutting the fabric using the pattern I designed. 

Above I sewed together the back panels. I was unsure whether I wanted to keep it like it is above, or have the stitching showing on the outside. Using inspiration from other designers I have spoken about in my blog, I like the rawness of the garment displayed, it adds to the authenticity and realness. 

Here I am stitching the sides of the front and back panels together, I do this first, as I need to include sleeves. 

I have used the overlocker in the fashion room to produce the finished outcome I wanted for the top. Don’t worry - I trimmed the excess. I thought it would add to the raw finish; I’m starting to think I should have used this technique to finish the bottom of my shorts - If i still have time i might undo the seams and us the overlocker instead.

Above, I am cutting the fabric pattern for the sleeves of my garment. 

I have added the sleeves onto my garment. i’m using the overlocker to give it a clean raw finish. This will make the top consistent with the finishings on the base of the garment. 

I have posted a GIF showing the garment base. I think the colours work well together,  the tones of the turquoise with the black and green compliment one another. I am still yet to include the patchwork. I will do this on Tuesday. 

overall I am happy thus far with the outcome. If I were to redo this, I would take the sleeves higher as I’ve dropped them a little too low for my liking. I’d also include pockets in the shorts to give them for function. 

Now I need to start to develop the patches and work out what I will put where and how. The fabric I’ve used hasn’t been the easiest for me to work with. I’ve struggled at times to sew straight as the sewing machine has dragged the fabric with it at times. It will be interesting how I will develop my patches, I will create some mini samples, using this final fabric and other materials to develop some patchwork and understand how I will achieve the look. 

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Finishing touches - shorts

Shortening the leg of the shorts. 

Pinning the seam up, getting ready to stitch the fabric 

In the picture above, I have now finalised the waistband and elasticated the shorts. I’m in the process of taking the shorts up - what I mean by this, is that I’m shortening the fabric length on the leg, so they are just above knee height. This will give the shorts a more aesthetic look, in line with current trends - not short shorts and not 3/4 lengths. 

I like how this pair have come out. If I were to do this in the future, i’d also include zip pockets to give the shorts more function, as I didn’t have enough time pattern cutting to produce a pocket. I will however construct a top to go with the bottoms. 

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The beginning of final shorts and adding the waistband

Here I have cut out the front and back panels for the shorts. I chose to use colours of a similar palette, a turquoise, with bottle green and black of similar stretchy fabric all compliment each other. 

Here I have constructed the inside and outside leg of shorts, giving the 1cm seam allowance. 

Above, I am adjusting the waistband to make sure it is all in line.  

I have now lined the waistband up and i am pinning it in place so it doesn’t move. 

I am now stitching the waistband to the shorts. 

I have now pulled the waistband up, I need to now stitch the remainder to the inside of the shorts, that will give the waistband the shape for the elastic. 

Here i have stitched the remainder of the waistband to the inside of the shorts to give the waistband it’s shape. 

The stages above show the development of my final version of the shorts for my final piece. I have constructed the base, using stretchy fabric. I sourced this material from the rag market in Birmingham. They were left over cuts which were going to be thrown away, so I decided to snap them up for a couple of quid. I decided to do this as i wanted to continue with my ethos of sustainability - instead of contributing to more waste, why not utilise potentially wastage.. So i did.

As seen in the photos, I am inserting the elastic into the waistband using a safety pin. The reason for this is so you don’t lose the elastic inside the waist band, it’s a clever and essential way to get the chosen outcome. 

I still need to make alternations to these shorts. They’re a bit too long and need to be taken up slightly - more will follow. 

I found this material a lot more difficult to work with. I’ve only ever really worked with calico so I was slightly out of my comfort zone when using this stretchy fabric on a domestic sewing machine, in future I definitely want to spend more time on industrial machines, increasing my confidence, speed and skill. 

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Contrasting panel shorts inspiration

I came out of class at University and found this couple infront of me. instantly I noticed the man’s shorts; contrasting panels. It gave me inspiration for my own design. I think I will first construct the shorts from the leftover materials I have. Build a base, and then stitch patchwork on top of the garment for a custom finish. I also want to include a top to match the shorts and make a set. I will also do this with the t-shirt.

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Cow inspiration printing patches technique

Today i walked into COW vintage, Digbeth, Birmingham. I instantly saw this shirt, my eyes were drawn to the patchwork, which was in fact sublimation printed into the garment. This gave me ideas of what i could do in the future with patchwork, and also made me realise that patchwork is a concept, and can be replicated in many ways. I could print patches onto my garment, but as the base is elastic and synthetic, print may not be the best option. Potentially though, I could print on top of the patches themselves. This could be cool. 

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Patching connections

Eyelets 

I could use this method to attach my patches together. 

Teatum Jones AW 17. 

Futre Gazing - I have thought where I could take patchwork, and how I could use innovation to bring something new. In future I would consider using eyelets and ribbons to attach pieces of the garment together. I feel as though this could be a conceptual way of showing patches. 

Aqua film - using aqua film to attach fabrics together, exposing the threads.. anything underneath. 

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Zero-Waste Design Technique

The Zero-waste technique is a “design technique that eliminates textile waste at the design stage”. The wastage of textile represents around 15% of the textiles intended for clothing, which represent a significant number. The zero waste design approach aims to maximise the use of textile materials by minimising the wastage, on natural resources. Some experts share their approach to this technique, advocating the fact that it allowed them to “explore and invent new outcome”. However, the textile used for that technique is a crucial consideration because and knowing exactly how wide the textile is, is major. 

This design technique is interesting when linked to patch work because all the leftover textiles left on the side, which were not intended to be used can have a ‘second life’ within new garments and create a unique peace of work. Creating sustainable fashion can be found in innovative design that reduces waste and uses sustainable fabrics. However, combining these sustainable fabrics all together is patch work, which rework the existing garment to make it more interesting and singular.

Further then the textile itself, the zero-waste technique also implies the use of all resources available such as materials and textile of course, but also people, energy, time and imagination. It is about creating valuably and efficiently without creating waste of any kind. This technique is embodied by the concept that is it more valuable to put energy into reusing wasted materials then creating new ones and also allow customer to know how their clothes are being made and with what materials.

Zero waste Daniel based in New York create their clothes from fabric off-cuts from factories and cutting room floors around the New York area. By sewing these pieces together, they make a roll of patchwork fabric that they will use to make brand new garments from. I have mentioned this designer in my blog previously. 

This process can actually stop tonnes of waste fabric and can allow customers to choose the patches they want to be used in their garment, among all the fabrics collected, intended to be wasted.  The art of sewing to the scraps that abound, due to fashion industry’s wasteful practices, can be a way to make unique fashion pieces.

This technique definitely increases the awareness on sustainable living with an emphasis on sustainable fashion which allows people and public class to demystify the ‘precious’ and ‘expensive’ class view of components in luxurious garments. It slows down the fashion cycle and aims to reduce waste while creating individual, unique and fashionable garments regarding the exploitation of any source of resources. (materials, textiles but also energy time and imagination)