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A Brief Look at Lolita Fashion

There is a difference between Lolita and lolita—one referring to the Nabokov novel from 1955, and one referring to the Japanese alternative fashion. Unfortunately, those not familiar with anime, Japanese culture, or alternative fashion, are confused when people use the term “lolita” to describe the fashion because of the association with the Nabakov novel. To be clear, lolita fashion has nothing to do with the book, and with this article, I want to explore the history of lolita, the assumptions of sexuality about lolita, and feminism in this “cutesy” fashion.

Lolita fashion started gaining prominence in the Harajuku district of Japan in the 1980s. Referred to as Elegant Gothic Lolita, or EGL, the style drew on inspiration from historical clothing from the Victorian and French Rococo, the lavish dresses and oh, the frills! Despite the idea of lolita being all pink, there are actually several substyles within lolita—including classic, sweet, and gothic. Each substyle has their own general color schemes and accessories, but they all follow the same respective silhouettes and guidelines.

(Diagram from PenguinLolita)

An outfit is called a coordinate, and there are multiple pieces that make up a single coordinate. PenguinLolita uses a great diagram to showcase the anatomy of a coord (shorthand for coordinate). A coordinate includes either a one piece dress (OP), a jumperskirt (JSK) with a blouse, or a skirt with a blouse, a petticoat beneath the dress to help achieve an A-line shape, bloomers beneath the petti, usually worn to preserve modesty in case any curious outsiders try to pull the skirts up, socks or tights, shoes (typically a tea party shoe or Mary Jane style), and a head piece. The idea of the head piece is to balance out the volume and shape of the coordinate. Coordinate-inspired accessories are also encouraged, and Over the Top (OTT) coordinates are all the rage. Accessories can include, but are not limited to, rings, bracelets, wrist cuffs, necklaces, and bows. Parasols and purses are often seen to round out the look!

So where does the EGL community and the Nabokov book overlap? Well, they don’t. However, because the fashion shares a name with the Nabokov novel, it is easy for outsiders of the community to perceive EGL as something sexual. Coined as a “lolita complex,” or “lolicon,” this is the idea of older men, typically middle age, being attracted to younger girls, in line with the Nabokov novel. The EGL community is a place for women of all ages to honor this fashion and its roots as a fashion inspired by French Rococo styles. As PenguinLolita puts it, “The lolita subculture emphasises modesty and youthfulness, as well as drawing from the Japanese kawaii aesthetic, and isn't considered overtly sexual by its followers.” 

It is, unfortunately, a common occurrence for lolitas to come across those who have assumptions and perceptions of what lolita is. Because of its youthfulness and cute fashion, members of the EGL community are often assumed to be dressing up to play out some sort of sexual fantasy. This really could not be further from the truth. Some lolitas have been attracted to the fashion because of its lack of sexualization and emphasis on expressing oneself. Lolita fashion inherently subverts the  social expectation of how women should dress. I’m not saying it’s not impossible for people to be attracted to the fashion and try to use pieces that are “lolita” inspired to fulfil some sexual desire, but that would not be lolita—plain and simple.

Coordinates can be incredibly expensive, especially when considering that pieces are not mass produced, thus emphasizing paying for the unique print, manufacturing of the garment, waiting for the garment to be made, and shipping. Buying pieces from brands such as Angelic Pretty and Baby, The Stars Shine Bright can reach up to $1,000+ USD. Considering everything that goes into a basic coordinate, this can be an easy deterrent for those who are not devoted to the fashion, or for those looking at it in a way that is purely sexual, so it is relatively easy to spot someone who is claiming to be part of the EGL community for all the wrong reasons. Additionally, the EGL community tends to use the terms lolita (lowercase ‘L’), EGL, and “lolita fashion” when discussing the fashion, and they avoid using the words Lolita (uppercase ‘L’), and loli.

What is the appeal to lolita fashion, and is it for everyone? As discussed before, the fashion is inherently nonsexual, and is something people of all ages can enjoy and wear. It is not just for women, though. The idea of lolita is to embrace non-traditional femininity, something that is incredibly important when masculinity is favored so prominently throughout the world. It defies this idea that women need to dress to attract work, love, and have kids. Lolita embraces cuteness and fun, and you can embrace everything that makes you YOU, all while engaging with the EGL fashion, whether you are Black, White, or part of the LGBTQIA+ community. Lolita is about honoring femininity and oneself, and there is a substyle for everyone. Recently, ouji has been becoming more popular to accompany  lolita fashion. The term “ouji” refers to a “prince-like” style. If lolita is a “princess-like” style, then ouji is its counterpart. Frills galore, but add pants; and this is the perfect fashion for individuals who love and appreciate the fashion, but do not feel comfortable in dresses or skirts (for a variety of reasons).

More than ever, lolita fashion is accessible to those not living in Japan, or individuals who do not fit in the “one size” (one size fits small) many name brand lolita companies use. Bodyline offers lolita pieces at a low price, and it is easy to buy directly from their Japanese site if you live out of the country. Additionally, Taobao lolita brands are becoming increasingly popular, and consumers outside of China and Japan can use shopping services for both Taobao brands and Japanese lolita brands. There are U.S. stores and websites for Angelic Pretty and Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, so North American lolitas can buy directly from there in English. Lolita has become so much more than an alternative fashion seen on the streets of Harajuku, Kei-Con, a convention for kawaii alternative fashion enthusiasts, popping up in Toronto, Canada, and Paradiso, a J-fashion convention based in the Midwest. With tea parties held at the Angelic Pretty stores around the world, the alternative fashion is becoming increasingly visible outside of Japan and accepted through various local EGL communities.

What about plus size lolitas? Many Taobao brands offer custom sizing on select pieces to help lolitas that don’t fit in the small sizing “standard.” Dollbe on Etsy offers JSKs and OPs up to 5XL, and their sizing is so inclusive. Dollbe is also  a Black-owned lolita company! Another size inclusive shop is Lady Sloth, a lolita brand from Poland. They offer custom sizing, as well, and their pieces range from sweet lolita to gothic lolita with classic disbursed between.

The EGL community is wonderfully inclusive and accepting. It embraces differences in those who participate in the fashion. The EGL community is, at its core, alternative fashion, which is accepting of all individuals who want to embrace femininity. Aside from the beautiful coordinates, lolita is about being yourself, truly. It can be an amazing and breathtaking experience to put on your first full coordinate. If you’re interested in lolita fashion, don’t be afraid to reach out to your local lolita community. Additionally, there are many lovely lolitas on Youtube that can aid you in your quest to build the lolita wardrobe of your dreams.

For links to my sources and additionally readings can be found here: Google Doc

A special thank you to the lovely lolitas from my own community in Michigan for helping me with this piece!