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Raven Travel Guides Germany’s new Bonn guide is now available for download at ravenguides.com.

It's Beethoven's 250th anniversary and Bonn, the graceful city of his birth, still aims to celebrate the event later this year as Germany emerges from coronavirus lockdown.

The house of the composer's birth, with a museum and 200-seat music chamber, is a Bonn highlight, along with a unique range of churches, Roman and medieval remains, and a collection of superb museums befitting the former West German capital.

Guides to Cologne, Bremen and Potsdam have been updated in recent months and the next new destination is Koblenz.

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Germany's Harz towns offer intimate, historical travel experiences

Raven Guides Monday travel tip #49

The Harz is Germany's little mountain range, the place for travellers wanting small towns, eccentric historic streetscapes, small accommodation options and a lively mixture of festivals. In and around the Harz, lovers of half-timbered buildings, medieval stone churches and the occasional castle or stretch of town wall are in their element.

Goslar is the biggest of the towns, the gateway to the Harz, but its centre has not lost the late medieval feel. Its mines brought riches and made it a favourite of medieval German emperors, who built a stone palace above the town. Several of its towers and gateways survive and many hundreds of half-timbered town houses, daubed with colourful inscriptions or curious, quirky characters.

Wernigerode is smaller but known as the most colourful of the Harz towns. Its town hall is the best example of this but only a walk through the old centre displays the full variety. The town’s bonus attraction is a castle perched above that has hundreds of years of stories to tell.

Quedlinburg was another favourite of early German kings and emperors and its half-timbered buildings have been gradually restored over the past 25 years.  On the Schloßberg are a small castle and a stone church with the tomb of an 11th century emperor and his consort.

There are many attractions in the Harz but these three should not be missed.

Raven Travel Guides Germany will produce guides to Wernigerode and Quedlinburg in coming months. For a guide to Goslar’s attractions, accommodation and food suggestions, download the free guide at www.ravenguides.com.

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Germany’s borders present growing travel delays

Raven Guides Monday travel tip #48

Europe’s refugee crisis is dimming the vision of borderless travel and the willingness of Germany and Sweden to accept refugees has consequences for the speed and convenience of other travellers. This seems likely to be a fact of life throughout this year, if not longer.

When buying cross-border transport tickets, it is now wise to ask how long journeys are likely to take, and warn accommodation hosts if arrival times might be affected.

Last September this blog warned about the need to stay abreast of changes in border procedures, mostly with regard to passport checks that no-one envisaged even 10 months ago. Germany instituted border checks on its frontiers as refugees flooded through Austria, funnelling to their preferred destination via the Balkans. Last month Austria reinstituted routine border screening, with its chancellor announcing that anyone entering the country would be subject to screening.

Under the EU's Schengen agreement cross-border traffic has normally been document-free. Now it’s a case of travellers having to consider planning for disruption.

An additional delay emerged at Christmas as Denmark and Sweden reinstituted passport checks and screening on the Öresund bridge linking the countries by road and rail near Copenhagen and Malmö. Delays for travellers – even commuting workers – were this month of the order of 30-40 minutes in most cases. Some cross-border commuter trains were also cancelled due to the delays. This affects travellers from Germany to Sweden across Danish soil. Commuters have received vouchers to use on their stored-value cards, but international travellers will get nothing except, hopefully, efficient and friendly service at what is trying time for everyone.

Danish nervousness over the refugee influx also led to a brief halt in Danish rail traffic from northern Germany. It’s unclear whether such temporary disruptions might return from time to time.

Schengen’s long-term future is in doubt but, short of an EU political resolution, Germany and its neighbours can be expected to take matters into their own hands.

www.ravenguides.com

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Germans drink water from bottles

Raven Guides Monday travel tip #47

For Germans, water comes out of a bottle. German tap water is of good drinking quality and not normally chlorinated, although some hotels might add chlorine. No German water supplies have been fluoridated since reunification.

But Germans customarily drink bottled water even at home and are prepared to pay for it.

Water should not be expected free in restaurants and, if water is requested, bottled water is likely to be served – and added to the bill.

Travellers who agree with Germans have plenty to choose from – a few years ago as least 500 brands were available. But these, in spite of labelling, will not always be natural waters. Treatments such as ionisation are not unusual for bottled water.

For natural water, look for ‘Stilles Wasser’ or ‘naturelles Wasser’ are normal labels on water (‘ohne/keine Kohlensäure’ means non-carbonated).

Buying small bottles at rail stations or other transport hubs can be expensive. For lower prices, go to budget supermarkets and buy 2 litre bottles for €1 or less. Of this, 25 euro cents is typically the bottle deposit specified under container deposit legislation. The bottle recycling machines in some supermarkets allow the user to insert the bottle in a chute, redeem a slip with the deposit amount and use the slip as a discount docket for purchases in the supermarket.

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Why German rail stations are Europe’s best

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #46

 A central rail station in Germany (Hauptbahnhof) has everything travellers need and a few things they perhaps have never thought of. Usually they are the hub for all city transport, with the central bus station outside or nearby, tram links or connections to S-Bahn or U-Bahn services at subway levels.

Large central stations are open 24 hours but most will be open restricted hours depending on arrivals and departures. This makes them centres for handy services quite apart from transport and associated information. In or around big railway stations it’s almost always easy to find:

- Fast food, snacks and drinks

- Basic groceries

- Luggage lockers for storage for up to 72 hours

- Banks for emergency currency exchange with cash machines

- Postal services

- Toilets (at a cost), occasionally with attached showers

- Pharmacies open long hours.

About 100 stations offer 30 minutes of free wi-fi public access but getting a connection requires a connection to the Deutsche Telekom network Hotspot portal, which will provide an access code.

Stations are policed by Germany’s federal police (Bundespolizei), who are a first recourse in emergencies, but do not have an ambit outside the station limits – for this they will refer travellers to state police.

One place travellers in distress can turn, at least for a willing ear and perhaps advice, is the Bahnhofsmission, badged with a red cross over a yellow diagonal band. It is not a place for transport information but provides a pastoral-social service in cases of emergency at more than 100 German stations. At the largest stations their doors are open 24 hours.

For details of the Euraide rail traveller service in Munich and Berlin, see the see the Maps, timetables & information entry in the 'Rail travel' item of the Transport - National & regional menu at www.ravenguides.com.

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Germany’s apartments click with travellers

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #45

The choices of apartment accommodation in Germany have only increased with online reservations.

Holiday apartments for families or groups with full facilities can be had for rates similar to – sometimes less than – two or three-star hotels. Generally apartments would be booked by the week but can be cost-effective for couples or families even for a few days, though usually the rate per day is cheaper over longer periods.

The advantages are:

- Preparing meals to help manage food costs in generally well-equipped kitchens (as well as meeting needs of vegetarian, vegan and organic diets).

- Making plans without the constraints of breakfast or reception desk hours.

- Usually having access to laundry facilities.

- Usually having internet access.

To explore German apartment bookings, check out these sites, always noting carefully terms and conditions:

www.wimdu.de

www.deutsche-pensionen.de

www.roomorama.com

www.homeaway.com

www.airbnb.com

 And, for Berlin:

www.oh-berlin.com

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Seven things travellers can get for 50 euros in Germany

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #44

By Western standards Germany is not expensive, despite European value-added taxes. The €50 note goes a long way in German accommodation houses, restaurants and most modes of transport.

What can a traveller expect for their €50 euro note (and even have change)?

1)      A single room with breakfast in many pensions or budget hotels.

2)      Main courses for two with a glass of beer or wine in a modest restaurant.

3)      A package deal for a day’s rail travel on local trains for up to five passengers travelling together within a German federal state.

4)      A weekend’s second-class rail travel on local trains for up to three passengers travelling together across Germany.

5)      A nine-hour bus trip from Berlin to Aachen near the Belgian border.

6)      A seven-hour bus trip from Berlin to Munich.

7)     Postage for three international packages of less than 2kg each.

Cash is preferable in many situations in Germany, including many retail stores and restaurants, so it’s best for travellers to have some handy and not rely on credit cards.

www.ravenguides.com

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How white is a German Christmas?

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #43 

Visiting Germany in winter weather would not challenge many North Americans or those from the British Isles wanting to enjoy the atmosphere of Christmas markets. But rugging up will be necessary and Southern Hemisphere visitors will notice the chill.

Formally, German seasons are considered to run according to solstices and equinoxes – thus autumn (Herbst) lasts until December 22. But to most Germans Winter settles in during November and firm signs of spring rarely appear until mid-April.

German temperatures are given in degrees Celsius (C).

Winter will generally bring falls of snow – though not everywhere – and a cold not unreasonable for enjoying the Christmas festivals and markets of Nuremberg or Dresden. Dresden’s daily average December maximum is 4 degrees C (39 deg C), minimum -1 deg C (31 deg F). On average there would be seven or eight days with snow. Nuremberg’s figures are 4 deg C and -2 deg C and the daily likelihood of snow around Christmas is 13-15%.

Average maximums in January range from 4-5 deg C (39-41 deg F) in the western half of Germany to less than 2 deg C (about 36 deg F) in the east – the north and the south (apart from the Alps) show little difference at about 2 deg C. January minimums range from just below zero (32 deg F) in the north to -5 deg C (23 deg F) in most parts of Bavaria. In Berlin, average January maximums are 3 deg C (37 deg F).

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Christmas lights up Germany

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #42

Festive lights, seasonal cheer, stalls selling small gifts, decorations, gingerbread, sweet treats and hot mulled wine in central town and city squares – about 1500 Christmas markets featuring all this and more are starting up throughout Germany.

The Advent period markets, often called simply Weihnachtsmärkte but also take place under various regional names, usually start at the end of November and finish before the evening of Christmas Eve, the key day of the German Christmas celebration.

They vary from picturesque locations such as the late medieval walled town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber to the great cities such as Dresden with its speciality Christmas loaf stollen. About 70 separate markets take place in parts of Berlin.

The late medieval origin of pre-Christmas markets is confirmed by documentary sources and a figure associated with the Christ child (‘Christkind’ or ‘Christkindl’) presiding over celebrations is also old. This is most famously observed in Nuremberg, one of the oldest markets, where the centre is a young girl. Nativity scenes are common but are a particular feature in Bamberg.

Christmas markets are not unique to the German-speaking but are far more prevalent there than elsewhere in Europe.

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Raven Guides Monday travel tips return next week.

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Bicycles ride too in German cities

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #41

Bicycles can be carried on urban trains, generally at off-peak times, with local variations – space permitting. Berlin and Munich for instance require bicycle tickets for S-Bahn or U-Bahn travel but in Frankfurt bicycles – when there is room – are carried free.

In Berlin bicycles can be transported on U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains, and on trams (or on U-Bahn replacement buses) if space permits (nights before public holidays excepted) but a ticket must be bought for the bicycle. They may also travel on cross-river ferries. The designated areas are signed inside the carriages and cabins. Where space is at issue wheelchairs and prams are expected to take priority.

In Munich bicycles are permitted on S-Bahn and U-Bahn services except for the morning and afternoon peaks (M-F 6.00-9.00 and 16.00-18.00).

In Cologne bicycles can be carried on all services as space – or the number of prams and wheelchairs, which get priority – allows.

On Hamburg transit services some of these features are mirrored. On city trains, ferries and some buses (outside the morning and evening peaks), and where where space permits, bicycles can be carried – no more than two bicycles per set of doors – but prams and wheelchairs take priority.

Folding seats near doors often provide the necessary space for bicycles in trains but some cities require bicycle-marked carriages to be used.

For cyclists' viewpoints on negotiating transport in Germany, visit www.cycletourer.co.uk or bicyclegermany.com.

 www.ravenguides.com

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Germany’s cities like your bike

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #40

Germany‘s urban bike path networks encourage cycling and most cities have developed on-street networks. Bremen's trail network is well established and Berlin has more than 600km of urban paths. In many streets bicycles have priority with speeds restricted to 30km/h.

Trails vary from purpose-designed paths to signed divisions of pedestrian areas. Often exclusive bicycle paths in Germany are painted (or paved in) red-brown, commonly where on the same surface as footpaths. In other places they may be marked off at the streetside by solid white lines with occasional bicycle symbols.

Generally bicycles share pedestrian lights and crossings at road intersections, though in some places a bike symbol is indicated on the lights. At other crossing points they will share white-striped pedestrian crossings.

Interactive maps of urban paths and regional links are available by state and location at www.bikemap.net/en/regional/Germany.

Hire points are often around or at rail stations or at hostels and pensions, but some close during winter months. Telephone book or online listings will be under 'Fahrradverleih' or 'Fahrradvermietung'.

Expect day rates of the order of €9-12, but these can be lower for rentals over several days. For details of a bike-sharing scheme at roughly half these rates, visit www.nextbike.net and consider signing up. This automated system uses cards or mobile apps to manage pick-up and payment and operates in Augsburg, Berlin, Dresden, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Hannover, Leipzig, Magdeburg, Mainz, Munich, Nuremberg, Potsdam, Regensburg and several other cities including the Ruhr centres.

 www.ravenguides.com

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Germany’s luggage lockers are a security key

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #39

Backpackers and train travellers in Germany find it hard to get by without luggage lockers (Schließfächer). In German rail stations left-luggage counters are now few and the locker system works well.

Some central bus stations also offer lockers, but these are fewer than at most Deutsche Bahn stations. In both cases the suitcase-and-key sign will point out the location.

At most DB rail stations two locker sizes are standard.  The usual storage time will be less than a day for a 24-hour charge of between €2 and €4 (for small lockers, too small for most 20-25kg rucksacks or suitcases) or €3 and €6 (the large size, big enough for one person’s heavy baggage with space to spare). The usual maximum is 72 hours. Only the recent arrangements at Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof, with storage priced at either €1.50 or €1 per hour, have been exceptions.

Demands on large lockers in peak summer seasons mean there are sometimes too few (in large stations not all lockers will necessarily be in one place, so ask or look around before assuming nothing else is available). Green lights indicate vacant lockers, red lights those occupied. Leaving items beyond the paid period will mean the light on the locker flashes red (sometimes this will also indicate a fault). Retrieving luggage at this point will mean inserting the coins necessary to cover the balance.

It’s best to arrive at destinations with the right coins (50 cents, €1 or €2) to cover locker fees. Some stations have change machines, which are sometimes next to banks of lockers or outside the commercially run toilet facilities appearing in increasing numbers at large and medium-sized stations.

Lockers do not return change so users should always check they have what they might need before locking. Insert the coins, turn the key and keep it secure for later retrieval.

An exception to the standard pattern is Cologne Hauptbahnhof, which has introduced an automated storage system in which an attached payments machine prints out a magnetic receipt to be reinserted for luggage collection and payment. This system may become more popular.

www.ravenguides.com

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German travel washes better at laundrettes

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #38

German laundrettes usually win the cost battle with travellers, though prices can vary considerably.

Based on a 6kg load, most costs to wash range from €3 to €5. Add to this mangling or wringing (often €0.50 to €1 where machines are provided), tumble drying (typically €0.50 or €1 for 10-15 minutes) and cups of washing powder (€0.30 to €1) from a dispensing machine. Some laundrettes observe 'happy hours' with discounts either early in the morning or late evening. Some open at 6am, most close at 10pm or 11pm, with last wash in one hour before closing. They may be closed Sundays.

Systems at some laundrettes involve using tokens issued from a machine. There may be machines to issue suitable change from small notes, but don’t count on it. German or Scandinavian washing machines can be thorough and it’s best to select one of the cooler cycles – anything hotter will take longer. Wash time at 40 deg C usually varies between 25 and 35 minutes. Some laundrette systems are more difficult to fathom, even where instructions in English are on hand. Plead with a friendly local if there are no staff (which is usually the case).

In-house laundry turnaround at well-organised hotels or pensions can be 24 hours or less, but cost varies a lot. But where arrangements involve outside contractors delivery may take 48-72 hours.

Some pensions or guesthouses allow guests access to a laundry free during stays of several days. Not all private hostels offer washing facilities, though many Deutsche Jugendherberge accredited hostels do and these are noted on their listing at the DJH website.

One national chain is Eco-Express Waschsalon, a familiar brand that is never pricey though arrangements may vary. Schnell und Sauber Waschcenter has handy locations in Berlin but otherwise is less widely spread. In listings or on signs, look for 'SB-Waschsalon', sometimes ‘Waschcenter’ or 'Wäscherei'.

www.ravenguides.com

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Do travellers get value from city tourist cards in Germany?

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #37

In every large German city the traveller has the choice: to buy or not to buy the city’s tourist package card.

It’s impossible to generalise – these products vary in their benefits and, like with any commodity, value is about buyer desires and expectations.

Common benefits are:

-          Free travel on public transit services for the card period

-          Admission or discounted admission to major tourist attractions such as museums

-          Discounts for city sightseeing tours

-          Discounts or special offers at listed cafes and restaurants

The value of tourist cards needs to be weighed up carefully, although the convenience factor for visitors using multi-modal transport is obvious. Sometimes it is difficult to get value from such cards in the time allotted. Big cities often offer multi-museum cards that complicate the choice – but lots of museums close Mondays.

The smaller the price differential between tourist cards and multi-modal transport tickets, the better a tourist card with wide benefits looks, but one principle of good travel planning is minimising the travel necessary each day.

Tourist cards are available at tourist offices, often at the customer service centres of city transit authorities, or occasionally transit ticket machines. Details of periods and benefits are posted on city tourist websites.

www.ravenguides.com

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Two Berlins, all mixed up

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #36

Germans are getting over their hangovers from celebrating 25 years since reunification at the weekend. The hangovers of reunification itself are a more complicated matter, and travellers can best see this in formerly divided Berlin.

The city has now been one for nearly as long as it was divided by a wall (1961-89). Redeveloping the eastern part has, by and large, been about gentrification, a process in which former West Berliners, former West Germans and immigrants have repopulated inner city areas, bringing affluent lifestyles while assimilating an acquisitive new generation born of former East Berlin families.

The result is that today’s travellers searching for fragments of the modern legends that grew from the alternative lifestyles of parts of walled-in Kreuzberg from the 1960s to the 1980s will more likely find a coffee-sipping, upwardly mobile class of internet entrepreneurs. Travellers wanting a taste of the grunge-inspired early 1990s Prenzlauer Berg will find a leafy precinct of restaurants and renovated apartments rich in children’s playgrounds and day-care centres. The real estate on the east side of the former Berlin Wall is now going for higher prices than areas that stood to the west.

Formerly Communist Friedrichshain is racing in the same direction – with such a location, why wouldn’t it? – as are precincts of Neukölln.    

There have always been lots of Berlins on show, but some are disappearing and others long gone. The key to enjoying Berlin is enjoying the present, and there are still many breakfast cafes and small restaurants, including probably the highest proportion of vegetarian or vegan restaurants anywhere in Germany. For the rest, visit the city’s many markets and museums.

www.ravenguides.com

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Sharing a ride in Germany

Raven Travel Guides Monday travel tip #35

Travellers who prefer driving between German destinations or want to benefit from the savings of ride-sharing can use website-based services.  

Organised car-pooling in the form of the Mitfahrzentrale or ride-share centre has a fairly long history in Germany but has been made easier and more responsive by online listings. The website www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de translates fairly well in web browsers – for von read ‘from’, for nach read 'to', for Zieladresse ‘destination’. The site has lists of point-to-point offers and requests with proposed times, days, prices and number of seats wanted or available.

Registration on the site allows profiles to be viewed and women travellers can specify women companions. Ground rules about meeting, wait times and latest cancellation times can also be nominated. There are also downloadable mobile apps.

Payment, as specified by the driver, can be at the time of meeting or a pre-payment can be handled through the website. The website suggests a price guide, based on current fuel costs, in the range of €5-7 per 100km travelled. On booking the partners each receive mobile phone numbers.

The site has begun an optional booking system charging commissions on fully registered journeys, which delivers some safeguards including help lines in case either partner does not appear.

Similar sites, with some varying features, are: www.fahrgemeinschaft.de, www.bessermitfahren.de, www.citynetz-mitfahrzentrale.de and www.mitfahrzentrale.de.

The Berlin Shuttle site www.berlinshuttle.de offers journeys between Berlin and Hamburg by merging the notions of car rental and car pooling. The UK-based sites flinc.org, www.blablacar.com or www.drive2day.com could also be of assistance, especially in getting to or from Germany.

The transport service Uber has struck many legal hurdles to German operations and some of its offerings have faced court bans. The UberX service, operating under commercial passenger transport provisions and claimed by Uber to be up to 20% cheaper than conventional taxi services, began its rollout in Berlin in May.

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