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Salvador samba life and a sad goodbye to Brazil

THURSDAY 14TH DECEMBER

Wow Salvador. One of the most interesting, cool places I’ve ever visited. Anyone planning their next years holiday, two weeks in Rio then Salvador would be 👌  I can’t exaggerate how much music and colour there is everywhere. Carnival must be crazy if I’ve just seen normal week days.

I’ve also been lucky to stay in a really great hostel with nice people - you can always find someone to party with, to day trip with or just chill by yourself.

Here’s some snaps of my last few days...

And so tomorrow it is my last day in Brazil 😭 😢.

The last two months have gone so fast and there is SO much I didn’t have time to do. And have only just realised how big Brazil actually is.😁 It deserves many more months (or years!) of exploring. I know every travel blog says the same about whatever country it’s writing about but I have loved the people, culture, food (most of the time!), nature and cities so much.

Obrigada Brazil, I will be back... but onwards to Bogota, Columbia tomorrow ✈️

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Hola Salvador!

TUESDAY 12TH DECEMBER

I was extremely sad to leave Rio, especially there’s still so much I didn’t get round to doing. But my sadness subsided quickly as just a few hours later I was in Salvador (in Brazil, not the country) eating the most delicious thing I’ve eaten the whole time I’ve been away. Moqueca which is kind of like a red thai curry with prawns and fish. Mmmmmmmmm.

And the old town I’m staying in, Pelourinho is so beautiful and cool looking. Very much like Havana. But even more music EVERYWHERE. The samba here is different, more drums (wherever you are no matter the time it sounds like a performance of Stomp is going on just next door).

So to get into the Salvador spirit I took up the invite from the hostel receptionist to go with her to her daily dance class.

She told me it was an afro-brazilian class with a live band, so I thought “Great, it will be like a Zumba class!”

It was not! It was more of a professional dance class. It was highly embarrassing as you can imagine. Fun, but I won’t be going back tonight.

But later that evening I got to do my own samba dancing (which I prefer anyway) at a night where there were live bands on stage. The hostel is very sociable and so we all danced the night away there.

Today I was feeling a bit fragile so I checked out the local beach, Barra. Was a bit of an adjustment coming from Rio and having to get the bus to the beach (especially when you get one going the wrong way and have to go back on yourself).

Anyway, the samba drums in the street are calling so need to go and improve my moves. 

Tchau! 

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Hangliding, Favela jazz and more beaches

In the last few weeks I....

Turned 30 🎉

Went hang-gliding. It was very chilled and felt a bit like flying but only lasts a few mins sadly. Still worth it for the views.

I wasn’t listening properly when he explained he was going to unstrap my leg so this is me screaming because I thought I’d come loose, luckily I’m quite close to the ground.

Obviously celebrated by having a nice coconut.

Moved house to Leblon

It’s really fancy here and this is is my new local beach just around the corner. 😏

Celebrated my birthday at a carnival style samba street party.

No pictures (I don’t normally take my phone out with me) so these google ones will do. If you ever come to Rio go here, it’s awesome. Bar do Nanam.

Watched live jazz in a mosaic maze in a favela.

The Maze is high up in a favela and once a month they play live jazz. The band were amazing (I wasn’t sure if I liked jazz, and maybe the band weren’t even jazz but it was really good whatever it was). The place is a hotel and was built by a British artist, but most excitingly THE Gary Lineker has been there. Read it for yourself here.

It’s a cool house made of mosaics. Here’s a profesh photo of it...

And here’s a less profesh one but has me in it looking really happy with a toucan.

The night ended with a long walk down the favela hill but onto the beach, before picking up a burger and beers on the way.

So it’s my last full week in Rio and I’m feeling quite sad about leaving. There’s still so much I still haven’t done but I suppose it gives me more reasons to come back.

This last week will probably be an intense codey and boozy week with my Nerd Herd...so I’m sure it will be a good one 👊

Things I’ve learnt this week

Do not get straight into bed after going to the beach without having a shower.

Do not go to Dominoes in Brazil. There will be no garlic dip so the whole thing becomes pointless.

Leblon supermarkets are better than Waitrose and it is possible to have a whole aisle with only olive oils. 

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Small hike

SUNDAY 19TH NOVEMBER

In practice for a big hike planning next week (and due to getting up too late on a Sat morn) we went on a small ramble through Tijuca forest to a waterfall. 

We started quite high up in the forest where there are amazing views and I saw a monkey eating a banana (sadly no photos).

The walk was a fun one full of obstacles and climbing. The locals made me feel like a nerd in my trainers (as opposed to their flip flops or bare feet).

Then in the evening a few of us went to Botafogo where there are loads of cool bars where everyone drinks on the street. We had a million beers and I made it home in time for another lovely sunrise.

Things I learnt this week

Bacon flavoured beer is delicious

After bars close people go to petrol stations and hang out there to drink beers 🤔  Is nice! 

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Sugarloaf Mountain

SUNDAY 12TH NOVEMBER

No writing today, just some nice snaps. Today I managed to catch the sunrise and set. Only one on purpose. 😊

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Maracana Stadium ⚽️

WEDNESDAY 2ND NOVEMBER

As you all know. I love cans and chanting at football games. Well Brazil has nailed that one. 

NO PYRO NO PARTY..... 

Just some friendly flares.

And some friendly fans...

Before the game had even started we were having the best time. Flares, meat, beers, street partying. The game was actually good too - a goals, goals, goals game of 3-3.

I took lots of poor quality videos but they capture the vibes!

In the stadium.

After the game, hanging with the band.

On the way home on the train.

And of course, on the actual train (it was actually shaking at one point, it was great!)

Things I’ve learnt this week

Brazilians quite like football

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Botanical Gardens, Lagoa & Leblon

SUNDAY 29TH OCTOBER

My Sunday morning wanders of the botanical gardens...

And had a lovely miniature pasty for breakfast.

Then checked out a big lake, called Lagoa (which I presume is ‘lake’ in Portuguese).

I mainly went as an opportunity to try out my new...

VISOR! It was nice giving fellow visor wearers a smug smile and a nod (which is literally everyone because visor’s are the shit here). 

And then no stroll would be complete without ending up at the beach so checked out Leblon, which is the fanciest of the main beaches apparently. But just seemed a bit quieter and more relaxed.

Then this week in “Weird fruit/veg of the day”.....look at this tiny mango!!!

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Surfing and caipirinha’s

SUNDAY 22ND OCT

Yesterday I thought I would have an active day and went to Barra beach for a surfing and yoga lesson. 30 mins of yoga, followed by an hour surf lesson and then some more yoga to finish up.

Here I am post-yoga with the teacher feeling very Zen. 🙏

Then I had to get into the water. The last time I went surfing was on a school trip when I was 14. I remember standing up. I thought I was a pro. Memories can be deceiving! Although I managed to stand up twice, I spent the majority of the time being thrown around by the waves, with the board flying all over the place and me being thrown in the opposite direction. I did not like it one bit! The teacher was amazing but after an hour of constant near-death experiences I called it a day and went to spectate on the sand with a coconut instead.

Here I am smiling through the trauma.

Some much needed relaxation was required afterwards so had a few beers on the beach with one of my course chums who I’d dragged along to surfing with me (he had a great time somehow).

The rest of my weekend disappeared due to going to a party and a night out on Saturday. Kasia sent this photo today from London and sums up my day of hungover-ly watching Rick and Morty in bed. So nothing to report, soz! 

Things I’ve learned this week

Need to stop going to ‘all you can drink caipirinha’ nights if I want to leave Brazil without diabetes.

The bbq meat sticks on the street are VERY good.

Clocks can go back without you even realising but due to technology it doesn’t affect us at all and you can just find out a week later. When we all swap our proper watches for iWatches how often will technology change the time without us realising? 😳

You can get very sunburnt even if it’s very cloudy - (I’ve definitely learnt this one before but has to be re-learnt every year).

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Coding, coconuts and Copacabana

SUNDAY 15th OCT

This is my life now.... 😍

I won’t bore you with details as it’s quite low on LOLS but I’m loving it and learning loads. So now my week days are 99% this 👆 I only have weekends to explore now.

My first weekend in Rio consisted of...

Drinking and dancing to awesome samba bands in Lapa with my course mates (lots of bars, clubs and everyone just drinking on the street, including partying in the petrol station).

Getting drunk on just two caipirinha’s.

Discovering a new hangover cure which is fresh coconut and lazing on Copacabana Beach 😎

Getting a massage at the fancy Copacabana Palace Hotel! (Courtesy of Chris, thanks! 😘 ) It rained today which was quite nice because it’s been a bit sweaty this week, still getting used to the heat!

So I went for a very lazy weekend after tiring week of crazy 12+ hour days of non-stop schooling plus homework. Next week I will do more touristy exploring!

Things I’ve learnt this week

If you decide to leave all of your cards at home and just take your Monzo out with you, make sure it’s topped up.

When you think you’re having breakfast because it’s 10.30am you will still receive a steak menu.

Copacabana is the BEST people watching spot.

Start taking a tupperware box out for meals - the portion sizes are for 10 people it seems. Like this...(this also came with a side of pork scratchings which was an excellent surprise!)

Need to ensure I don’t become a whale whilst I’m here so will be back on the giant avocados this week. Until next time 👋

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Rio - I’ve landed!

SUNDAY 8TH OCT

I landed late last night and had a whale of a time unpacking my bag and settling into my new homely ‘non-hostel’ apartment.

When I opened the curtains this morn I was greeted with this...

Every time I catch the window it makes me so happy 😍  hello view!

And by 10am I was already having the best time. I attempted a run to explore the area but it turned into more of a slow jog because despite the appearances of a cloudy day it was still very hot. I’m staying in Gloria so I went through Flamengo Park and reached Flamengo Beach in around 5 mins. The area is very local vibez with a Sunday fruit and veg market and everyone drinking beers on the street downstairs listening to samba bands. Then I had a rad time in the supermarket when I came across this...

A GINORMOUS AVOCADO AS BIG AS MY HEAD.

Once I got over this excitement I went to check out Ipanema Beach...

...where I felt very over-dressed in my non-thong. I then had a minor panic attack that I’d left my apartment door unlocked (I hadn’t) so had to head back to check.

As two beaches in one day isn’t enough, I then headed back to to nearby Flamengo Beach for the rest of afternoon. It’s really nice but apparently water is too polluted to swim in (although lots of people were).

The coconuts here are amazing and they seem to be filled with a never ending supply of water. Vita Coco have been conning me all this time, I reckon they contain about a 1/10th of a coconut. This is me getting annoyed that there’s still some left even though I’m enjoying it...

So a refreshing, relaxing day, ready for my first day of school tomorrow. CANNOT WAIT 😁

Things I’ve learnt today

You are never too old or fat to wear a microscopic thong bikini

You are never too old to rollerblade or skateboard - lots of seniors rolling around.

The Rio ‘carioca’ stereotype is true - everyone does walk around in bikinis and flip flops.

It is possible to eat something non-fried. Had an acai bowl today which was delish.

Coconuts are heavier than you would think.

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Foz do Iguacu

FRIDAY 6TH OCT

After 24 hours in a bus I made it to the edge of Brazil today. The night buses are great by the way, way more comfortable than a plane and loads of space. But glad I have no more mega travelling for a while.

What bought me here were these amazing waterfalls. They actually were soooo good. Waterfalls are normally a bit ‘meh’ but these are ‘wowza’. The Taj Mahal of waterfalls. What I didn’t realise from looking at photos before was how they go on for miles and miles and you walk along a jungle trail so you can see them from loads of angles. 

I then headed into the bird park so I can achieve my dream of seeing a toucan. TICK.

And some other weird birds.

So today has been a good day, but made even nicer by the fact that I am in an actual HOTEL today with a POOL. It’s official. The hostel life isn’t for me. Paraty hostel was very gammy, more gammy than places I remember from a decade a go gap year. When I walked in here after a long journey I actually fist pumped the air I was so happy. 

Was planning to visit the Argentinian side of the waterfalls tomorrow (apparently they’re better) but I feel like I need a lazy pool day tomorrow.

And really need to sort my body clock out before school starts on Monday. It’s 5pm and I could go to sleep now but I have to wait until 6.30pm for the all you can eat steak buffet to open 😂.. It’s called Tropicana and looks tasty. Haven’t had an amazing meal yet so fingers crossed for some good meats. 

*Update post meat*  - very good 👍  I may have to be vegetarian for a while now.

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Paraty

WEDNESDAY 4TH OCT

I’m a morning person now everyone! I was up and out by 7am, ready to seize the day. Nothing to do with jet lag or the fact I went to bed at 7pm last night.

So because my dinner yesterday was very unhealthy (deep fried pork chop, deep fried banana with deep fried egg) I thought I’d start the day in a more healthy way. But after wondering around for an hour all I could find was this delicious pasty. (It was actually delicious).

I then had a few hours to kill before my boat tour so explored the old colonial town and discovered it was much more enjoyable when it wasn’t raining or I wasn’t hungover from travel-ness.

Then I went on a ‘schooner’ (whatever that is) boat tour around all these nice islands with tropical remote beaches and cool fishes for snorkelling. It was very holiday vibes.

I forgot to use my fancy waterproof camera, even though this is exactly the kind of situation I bought it for, but there were a lot of cool fish. And apparently they like rice as this is what the boat people were throwing out of the boat to attract them.

I then went for dinner at one of those ‘pay what it weighs’ places with a German girl from my hostel. But was too scared to overload my plate as didn’t understand how much it would be so ended up getting an ice cream after which also had to pay by weight. Tomorrow should hopefully be a healthy day. I’m on a bus for about 24 hours so some starvation will do me good. 

Things I've learnt today

If you go for a drink in a bar where they play music you have to pay an enforced tip

Fish like eating rice

Brazilian tourists take photos and selfies ALL of the time. The boat tour today was like being on a paparazzi shoot.

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London > Sao Paulo > Rio > Paraty (from a seated position)

TUESDAY 3RD OCT

It’s 12.20pm and I’m in a minibus on the way to Paraty. The drive is all along the coast so the views are nice but it’s also pissing down with rain and have counted seven BAD car accidents so far.

All of the beachside towns look beautiful - white sands with ramshackle towns. All carbon copies of each other. Every time I doze off and open my eyes it’s the same beach and town but 30 mins has passed.

So for everyone thinking I’d be sunning myself on Cocacobana beach by now, this was my first glimpse of Brazil...

And this was was the first thing I experienced which wasn’t in a plane or bus seat...

Some kind of deep fried chicken on a stick at a service station. Was quite good! 

Things I’ve learnt do far - from looking out of the window for 6 hours 

It rains in Brazil - and I haven’t packed the right things. 

My bag is far too heavy to carry

Nobody speaks English

Everywhere looks like Jurassic Park

I prefer looking out the window to reading - maybe I didn’t need to bring 10 books (see above about bag)

People wear flip flops, even in the rain

They like crisps here even more than I do and there are more flavours! A Brazillian lady next to me on the bus shared her Mozzarella flavour crisps with me - think I’m going to be fine!