shelyold

[shelyold]

Hi GPODers! We’ve seen all kinds of gardens from nearly every corner of the globe here at Garden Photo of the Day. But just when you start to think you’ve seen it all, a new garden comes along to blow you away. Today’s submission is courtesy of Priscilla King, and she’s taking us to a corner of the globe we may have never seen on the blog. Priscilla is from Afton, Virginia, and has shared her home garden with us in the past (Autumn in the Blue Ridge Mountains), but this time around, she’s taking us way up north, to the northernmost botanical garden in the world. On a recent cruise to the Arctic Circle she was able to visit Tromsø Arctic-Alpine Botanical Garden in Tromsø, Norway, and she has shared the one-of-a-kind experience with us. We just returned from a cruise into the Arctic Circle, where we saw an incredible alpine garden in Tromsø, Norway. It is the world’s northernmost botanic garden and has collections of plants from the arctic and cool parts of all the continents. Although many plants had signs, many did not, so I don’t know what a lot of them are. The plants are grown in rock crevices and boulders that have a natural cover of lichen and moss.  As Priscilla mentioned above, many of these plants prefer to grow in the tiny crevices between large boulders, so Tromsø Botanical Garden uses these unique growing conditions to create incredible rock garden displays. A really interesting example of one of these crevice-lodging specimens is the drooping saxifrage (Saxifraga cernua). This tough wildflower grows in high altitudes all over the Northern Hemisphere, from the Rocky Mountains of North America to the permafrost in Siberia, often existing in isolation. Later in the season, the bright red stems will burst open into a flurry of tiny white blooms. When we think of blue blooms, the Himalayan blue poppy (Meconopsis betonicifolia, Zones 4–7) might be one of the first plants that comes to mind. When so many “blue” plants are really a hue away from purple, the bright sky blue flowers of the Himalayan poppy easily leave an impression. The bright blue color was once so unbelievable that, until confirmed discoveries in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the plant was considered a myth. While the focus of the photos so far has been on the plants that prefer the well-draining soils between rocks at high altitudes, where there are mountains, there are also valleys. In those valleys are crisp, clear lakes and streams where a very different set of plants thrive. One of those water-loving plants is the Altai globeflower (Trollius altaicus, Zones 4–8). The tiniest rhododendrons I have ever seen: They were a fraction of the size of the ones in my garden at home! This little guy is the ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron (Rhododendron × ‘Purple Gem’, Zones 5–8), which, as Priscilla expresses, grows to a fraction of the size of your typical rhododendron. These small beauties max out at about 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide. This beautiful anemone is a mystery to me. It looks a bit like narcissus anemone (Anemone narcissiflora, Zones 4–7), but in this gorgeous pink color rather than the typical creamy white. Maybe it’s a cultivar I can’t track down? Either way, it’s a gorgeous flower with equally as fabulous foliage. Lastly, the daisy-like blooms of leopard’s bane are one of the rare alpine plants that you can easily add to your garden. This genus is made up of 38 species, and cultivars of Oriental leopard’s bane, like the compact ‘Little Leo’ (Doronicum orientale ‘Little Leo’, Zones 5–8) are not uncommon in nurseries. Priscilla was very generous in the photos that she shared from this garden visit, and there were so many fascinating plants to discover, so we will be back in Tromsø tomorrow to see more from this unique botanical wonder. If you don’t already, be sure to subscribe to the Garden Photo of the Day email so you don’t miss out.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products isYoung Birdlook® Smart Bird Feeder with Camera Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Upgraded Dual Granary Bird Feeder. G11 Smart Bird Feeder with Camera – The upgraded dual granary design allows for separate food dispensing, giving birds the freedom to choose while preserving the food’s original taste. With a 2L extra-large capacity, it reduces the need for frequent refills. The drainage design ensures the food stays dry and prevents spoilage from rain. Ideal as a camera bird feeder for birdwatching enthusiasts. 2K HD Camera & Close-Up Bird Watching. Experience clear bird watching with the G11 smart bird feeder. This bird feeder with camera features a 170-degree wide-angle lens and a 1296P HD camera, ensuring vibrant images and videos. With AI-powered recognition, it can identify over 16,000 bird species (subscription required, first month free) and provides extensive birding knowledge. Its unique design helps attract more birds to your backyard. App Alerts & Super Night Vision. The smart bird feeder camera detects motion within 0.5 seconds and sends instant notifications through the "VicoHome" app. With a 2.4G Wi-Fi connection, you can view real-time updates on bird activity right from your app. The video bird feeder also features night vision, ensuring vibrant images and videos even in low light conditions. Ideal for wild bird feeders, this advanced functionality enhances your bird-watching experience day and night. Gardener's Log Book from NYBG Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. This weatherproof five-year log book includes the following features: · Sturdy waterproof cover to protect pages from rain and muddy soil · Lined pages and gridded paper for plotting beds · Five years of 12-month bloom and harvest grids for recording what you planted and when · Authoritative appendices on composting, pruning, pest and disease control, and container gardening · Useful reminders by season on fertilizing, mulching, and transplanting · Space for listing your favorite sources and suppliers. Ho-Mi Digger - Korean Triangle Blade Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Versatile Tool: The Easy Digger Korean Triangle Blade Ho Mi Ho-mi is a versatile gardening tool designed for leveling and digging in home and garden settings. Efficient Design: Its unique triangular blade shape allows for easy soil penetration and efficient leveling of garden beds or landscaping areas. Durable Construction: Crafted with sturdy materials, this tool ensures long-lasting performance and reliability. Ergonomic Handle: The comfortable handle provides a secure grip, reducing hand fatigue during extended use. Compact Size: Its compact design makes it easy to maneuver in tight spaces and store when not in use. Source link

[shelyold]

Breathe fresh life into an old piece of clothing with a little help from the garden. Making upcycled clothing can become a fun weekend project just by using ingredients grown from your garden. So go ahead and grab some new pieces from the thrift store, and let’s make some reworked clothing! The stats surrounding clothing are downright scary. Approximately 85% of textiles go to the dump each year, and less than 1% of clothing gets recycled. Another says that 35% of microplastics in the ocean come from laundering synthetic fabrics like polyester. Then you have the making of the garments themselves. Polyester releases 2-3 times more carbon emissions than cotton. The fashion industry itself is the second-largest consumer of the world’s water supply. There are also some dangerous chemicals lurking in the fast fashion world. In an investigation run by CBC, they found that one in five pieces of clothing from fast fashion retailers had high levels of harmful chemicals like lead, phthalates, and PFAS. Yikes! Companies will continue to produce vast amounts of cheap clothing as long as the consumer wants it. Upcycling clothing allows us to reimagine how a garment looks or give it a new life as something else altogether. Upcycling stops one more piece of clothing from going into the landfill and another new piece from being produced and sold. It’s important that we try to prolong the life of existing clothes as much as possible. And who doesn’t love a good thrifting trip? Here are ways you can make upcycled clothes with the garden serving as inspiration! This post will cover… Natural fabrics work best when using natural dyes. How to Upcycle Clothes Using the Garden Flower Pounding Flower pounding allows you to create botanical prints on fabric by hammering flowers and leaves onto fabric. They leave a colourful imprint of the flower behind. The key is making the natural dye from the flowers last. To do this, you’ll need to prep the fabric by scouring it to remove impurities and then add tannins to assist with the dye process. I go into detail about how to prep your fabric in this post. Then you get to do the fun activity of picking flowers from your garden and hammering it into the fabric. I’ve made tablecloths, napkins, and also framed fabric art using flower pounding. Flower pounding retains the dye from the flowers well when the fabric is properly prepped. Natural Dyes So many plants can be made into natural dyes, which is such a fun way to make upcycled clothing. I encourage you to go into your garden and experiment with which flowers and leaves can turn into dyes. You may end up with some unexpected colours! Here are some plants that work as excellent natural dyes: This post shows you how you can use marigold to dye fabric. It has some great instructions and tips that you can apply to other natural dyes as well! As a general rule of thumb, take the dried, fresh, or powdered plant material and simmer it in hot water. Use two parts plant material with two parts water. Once you’re satisfied with the colour, strain the plant material out and allow the dye to cool before using. Sun Printing A couple of years ago, I got obsessed with cyanotype printing. This printing type uses the sun’s power to imprint your botanicals onto your fabric. First, you treat the fabric with potassium ferricyanide and ferric ammonium citrate. It must be on natural materials like cotton or muslin. After the fabric dries in a dark room, you can lay your plant materials on it and let them sit in the sun. After just 20 minutes, the fabric has been printed! It’s that simple. For beginners, you can get sun printing kits that have everything you need to get started. I have fully detailed instructions on how I made these cyanotype printed napkins that you can apply to any natural fabric. Plant materials that can lay flat are the best for this type of project. Stamping Prints This method takes inspiration from the garden. I made stamped fabric napkins at Christmas, and they turned out amazing! I used a roller brush to smooth fabric paint over a rubber stamp to create my botanical prints. The options with this are limitless. I’ve also seen some people make their own stamps to replicate their favourite flowers from the garden. You can get stamp making kits that have everything you need to get started making fabric botanical prints. Thrifted Wool Cozies Wool is a great material for reworked clothing because it doesn’t fray or unravel when you cut it. It can also get pretty pricey when you pay for real wool felt by the yard. When shopping at the thrift store, try to find mostly wool sweaters or other animal fibres like cashmere or angora. I then felted them using the washing machine, making cutting the wool fabric easy. I then turned the wool felt into cozies for my plants. They look so cute in the winter, adding some coziness and charm. You can also use them as mug cozies. You can easily take the plant sweaters off once the winter season is over and put them back on for seasonal decor. Herbal Drawer Fresheners Speaking of felted wool, I did another project with the same sweater. Instead of making clothing, I made these herbal drawer fresheners. The key is filling them with fragrant herbs like lavender, rose, mint, and rosemary. Stick them in your drawers, and they’ll keep your clothes smelling fresh. I did a similar project with these herbal dream pillows. I just changed the shape and filled them with herbs that promote sleep, like hops and chamomile. For either of these projects, you can try to source thrifted fabric or rework clothing into these new projects. I put monograms on my drawer fresheners to personalize them. They make a lovely gift! Macrame Plant Hangers Macrame is back! I love using macrame as it’s a chic way to hang plants, adding some greenery and décor from the ceiling. All while keeping plants away from curious cats! At many thrift stores, you can also find craft supplies. To make a macrame, see if they have wire cable, leather, yarn, cotton twine, or other tactile materials. Then, follow the instructions in this post. Alternatively, you can turn an old shirt into a macrame. To do this, cut the shirt into long strips. You may need a couple of shirts or one XL shirt to do so. Depending on the fabric, you can leave it as is or maybe even braid it into strips before making the macrame hanger. Hand Painted Tote Bags At the thrift store, check out the bags section as well. I like seeing if any plain bags could use a little spruce up! I turned this plain tote bag into a fun and vibrant creation that could be used at the grocery store, beach, when travelling, as a lunch bag, or even to hold all your knitting supplies. You can use fabric paint to make all kinds of upcycled clothes, not just bags. You can either freehand the design using fabric pens or use a stencil to help you out. Then the rest is just painting with fabric paint and setting it! See how I made my market tote here. Frequently Asked Questions About Upcycled Clothing Can you legally sell upcycled clothing? Upcycled clothes enter into a grey area in the legal world. You don’t want to infringe on copyrighted material like original artwork, designs, lyrics, and quotes. Or on trademarks, like company and product names, and brand identity, like logos and slogans.However, fair use is allowed. This is where you can use and build upon existing works to create new works. But this is tricky to argue with in a legal matter, as it’s quite broad.Avoid using copyrighted imagery, sayings, specific logos, and brand names when reselling. Seek legal counsel if you’re unsure whether your upcycled clothing violates copyright or trademark law. What material is the best for upcycled clothing? Natural dyes have difficulty sticking to synthetic, man-made fabrics like polyester or rayon. Natural fibres like cotton, linen, bamboo, hemp, wool, silk, cashmere, and muslin work best. When shopping at a thrift store or looking through your closet for reworked clothing, look for these natural fibres. More Ways to Craft With the Garden A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

[shelyold]

This post may contain affiliate links. Read my full disclosure policy. This vibrant roasted red pepper hummus is easy to make, full of flavor, and so much better than anything from a tub—you’ll never go back to the store-bought stuff. This roasted red pepper hummus is one of those dips that feels a little special but couldn’t be easier to make. It starts with canned chickpeas and jarred roasted red peppers, so there’s no cooking involved—just toss everything in the food processor and blend. Like baba ganoush, whipped feta dip, or classic hummus, it’s perfect as part of a Middle Eastern-inspired spread or served with pita and veggies for snacking. You can even swap it in for the regular hummus on my always-popular hummus board—it’s always a hit. I like to finish roasted red pepper hummus with a swirl of good olive oil, a sprinkle of sumac, and a handful of toasted pine nuts for texture and a pop of flavor. Bonus: it can be made up to two days in advance; just bring it to room temperature before serving. What You’ll Need To Make Roasted Red Pepper Hummus Chickpeas: The base of the hummus, giving it that creamy texture and a nice boost of protein. Lemon Juice: Adds bright, fresh acidity to balance the richness of the tahini. Sesame Tahini: Gives the hummus its signature nutty flavor and smooth, creamy texture. Jarred Roasted Red Bell Peppers: Add a sweet, smoky flavor to the dip; be sure to pat them dry so the hummus doesn’t turn out watery. Garlic: Adds punchy, savory flavor. Always use fresh garlic when making hummus. Sumac, Cumin, And Cayenne Pepper: A warm, slightly tangy spice blend with a touch of heat. Sumac, often used in Middle Eastern cooking, is optional but really nice if you have it (you can find it online or in the spice section of many large supermarkets). Salt And Sugar: Salt brings out all the flavor in the hummus, while a bit of sugar helps highlight the natural sweetness of the roasted red peppers. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil: Adds richness and helps everything come together with a smooth texture. Pine Nuts (Optional): Great for topping the hummus with a little crunch and toasty flavor. Jump to the printable recipe for precise measurements Step-by-Step Instructions Step 1. Purée the ingredients. In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, lemon juice, tahini, roasted red peppers, garlic, sumac (if using), cumin, cayenne, salt, sugar, and olive oil. Process for 1 to 2 minutes until smooth and creamy. Processing for the full 1 to 2 minutes is key—longer blending time breaks down the chickpeas for a smoother finish. The hummus should hold its shape when you drag a spoon through it. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Step 2: Spoon, swirl and serve. Transfer to a serving bowl and use the back of a spoon to create a shallow well in the center. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with sumac (if using), and garnish with toasted pine nuts, if you like. Serve the roasted red pepper hummus at room temperature with pita bread, pita chips, or crudités. More Dip Recipes You May Like Print Roasted Red Pepper Hummus With a hint of smoky sweetness, this creamy roasted red pepper hummus is a fresh take on a Mediterranean classic.  Servings: 3 cupsPrep Time: 20 minutes minutesTotal Time: 20 minutes minutes 2 (15-oz) cans chickpeas, well-drained ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, from 2 lemons¼ cup sesame tahini, well-stirred⅔ cup jarred roasted red bell peppers, drained and patted dry, roughly chopped2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped¾ teaspoon sumac, plus more for serving (optional but recommended)Heaping ¼ teaspoon cumin⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper1 teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon sugar3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted, for serving (optional, see note) In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the chickpeas, lemon juice, tahini, roasted red bell peppers, garlic, sumac (if using), cumin, cayenne pepper, salt, sugar, and olive oil. Process for 1 to 2 minutes, until smooth and creamy. The hummus should hold its shape when you drag a spoon through it. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.Transfer the hummus to a serving bowl. Use the back of a spoon to swirl a shallow well in the center. Drizzle a little olive oil in the well; sprinkle with sumac (if using), then garnish with the toasted pine nuts (if using). Serve at room temperature with pita bread, pita chips, or crudités. Note: To toast pine nuts, heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 4 minutes. Immediately transfer the nuts to a small bowl to stop the cooking process. (Pay close attention: they go from perfectly golden to burnt quickly.) Make-Ahead Instructions: Red pepper hummus can be made and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator up to two days ahead of time. Bring to room temperature before serving. Serving: 0.25 cupCalories: 163kcalCarbohydrates: 18gProtein: 6gFat: 8gSaturated Fat: 1gSodium: 215mgFiber: 5gSugar: 3g This website is written and produced for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and the nutritional data on this site has not been evaluated or approved by a nutritionist or the Food and Drug Administration. Nutritional information is offered as a courtesy and should not be construed as a guarantee. The data is calculated through an online nutritional calculator, Edamam.com. Although I do my best to provide accurate nutritional information, these figures should be considered estimates only. Varying factors such as product types or brands purchased, natural fluctuations in fresh produce, and the way ingredients are processed change the effective nutritional information in any given recipe. Furthermore, different online calculators provide different results depending on their own nutrition fact sources and algorithms. To obtain the most accurate nutritional information in a given recipe, you should calculate the nutritional information with the actual ingredients used in your recipe, using your preferred nutrition calculator. Gluten-Free Adaptable Note To the best of my knowledge, all of the ingredients used in this recipe are gluten-free or widely available in gluten-free versions. There is hidden gluten in many foods; if you're following a gluten-free diet or cooking for someone with gluten allergies, always read the labels of your ingredients to verify that they are gluten-free. Source link

[shelyold]

Numerous rug companies are set to debut their latest collections at the upcoming Las Vegas Market which begins this Sunday, July 27, while Ernesta opens a new showroom. ******************* Loloi is debuting seven new collections in Las Vegas this week. All collections are either GoodWeave-certified, ensuring a commitment to ethical production and the support of weavers’ communities, or OEKO-TEX certified, ensuring materials don’t contain harmful substances. The Alara Collection is a unique and refined area rug that combines finely spun jute with chunky wool for dynamic pile juxtaposition in a neutral ivory palette with a natural color variation. The rugs are hand-woven in India of wool, jute, cotton and other fibers. Alara Collection The Alina Collection is a hand-woven wool area rug with an elevated, two-level pile that brings its subtle checkerboard design to life. The rugs are hand-woven in India of wool, cotton, polyester and other fibers. Alina Collection The Alistair Collection is a geometric area rug with a strong architectural design. The rug’s solid blocks of color are broken up with space-dyed, thin lines of looped yarn for extra dimension. The rugs are hand-loomed in India of viscose, wool, cotton and polyester. A rug from the Alistair Collection The Clarisse Collection is a traditional area rug with a classic floral design in soft, colorful palettes. Clarisse is power-loomed of polyester in Turkey, an easy-to-clean rug for living rooms, bedrooms, dining rooms, or other high-traffic spaces. The rugs are hand-loomed in Turkey of polyester and polypropylene. Clarisse Collection The Eileen Collection is a floral area rug with an artful, large-scale design. Eileen is power-loomed of polyester in Turkey, a soft and easy-to-clean rug. The rugs are power-loomed in Turkey of polyester and polypropylene. Eileen Collection The Elma Collection is a vertically striped area rug framed with whip-stitched edges. The rugs are hand-woven in India of wool, cotton and other fibers. A rug from the Elma Collection The Mabel Collection is a chunky wool area rug with a modernized take on traditional Turkish design. The rug’s pattern rises with a higher pile for added dimension, while the neutral stone palette makes it easy to style. The rugs are hand-tufted in India of 100% wool pile. Mabel Collection ************* Rugmaker Feizy is debuting three collections at the Vegas Market. The Agape collection includes handcrafted rugs woven by artisans in India using Ghazani, Irani and New Zealand wools, and “each rug is a true work of art,” Feizy said. The Agape Rug in green Handwoven in India, the Lakewood collection is made from eco-friendly PET yarn and features a cut-and-loop pile with a soft, soap-washed finish. Its subtle linear patterns and rich textures offer a refined, transitional style that fits both modern and classic spaces. Available in beige, brown, charcoal, gray, ivory, and navy, these rugs are stain-resistant, easy to maintain, and perfect for high-traffic areas. The Lakewood rug in ivory And finally, the Pearson collection is a celebration of versatility and elegance, blending both contemporary and traditional designs with rich, vibrant earth tones like rich brown, calming green, and warm rust. The specialized space dyed polyester yarn system creates subtle sheen while ensuring easy upkeep. The ultra dense pile is perfectly suited for high-traffic areas and offers both style and functionality. The Pearson rug in blue and brown. ************ Nourison Home‘s new offerings for Las Vegas span warm, earthy neutrals to rich, saturated hues that reflect today’s consumer preferences. Many of Nourison Home’s new area rugs are woven from natural wool yarns. For value-driven customers, Nourison Home also introduces designs made from high‑performing synthetic fibers. Antique Bloom: These traditional rugs feature intricate floral and geometric motifs  brought to life through space-dyed color effects, giving each piece a gently faded, heirloom-inspired look. Loom-woven from a durable wool blend and finished with fringe. Antique Bloom Sultana: These vintage-style rugs have an incredibly plush texture and are accentuated by space-dyed yarns that enhance the timeless appeal. Finished with fringe edges for added character. The Sultana rug Moonlit: These vintage-inspired rugs bring an inviting texture with a soft sheen that catches the light. Each style features classic patterns with a distressed finish and short fringe edges that add a timeless feel. Loom-woven from polyester for fuss-free care. The Moonlit Rug DKNY PURE Purl: This collection features handwoven rugs crafted in soft, tonal neutrals and geometric motifs. Flat-woven for easy placement and finished with subtle texture. DKNY Pure Purl Collection Nourison Home will also showcase its custom rug program, which delivers made‑to‑order sizes in 10 days or less. ************************ Visitors can explore Ernesta’s curated selection of high-quality wool, natural fiber, and performance rugs, all available in custom, to-the-inch sizing. Ernesta is opening a new showroom in Summit, N.J., located just outside of Manhattan. The new space deepens Ernesta’s physical presence in the greater New York area and marks the brand’s fourth showroom opening since last year, following successful launches on the Upper East Side, Greenwich, Conn., and Bethesda, Md. “We’re thrilled to continue Ernesta’s expansion with the opening of our Summit showroom,” said Jennifer Parker, Ernesta chief sales officer. “There’s a strong demand we’re seeing from both design professionals and homeowners for a better, more personalized rug-buying experience. We built Ernesta to fill that gap — blending elevated design with hands-on service and customization— and it’s exciting to see that mission resonate as we grow our presence in key design-forward communities like Summit.” The new 1,390-square-foot showroom offers a welcoming, hands-on environment where visitors can explore Ernesta’s curated selection of high-quality wool, natural fiber, and performance rugs. Designed to serve both consumers and design professionals, the space features a designer lounge for one-on-one design consultations to review rug samples in a collaborative setting. Over the past year, the brand has expanded its product assortment, scaled operations and deepened its presence in key markets across the East Coast. The Summit showroom, located at 380 Springfield Ave. is now open Monday – Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on Sundays from 12 – 5 p.m. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '693453330863834'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Eutrochium fistulosum Hollow joe-pye weed, Eutrochium fistulosum (syn. Eupatorium fistulosum) is a flowering perennial in the Asteraceae family suited to cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 8. It is native to eastern regions of North America, thriving in the full sun to partial shade of low-lying wetlands. This impressive species reaches heights of four to seven feet and is distinguished from other Eutrochium varieties by its whorled arrangement of large leaves and distinctive hollow stems that may show purple coloring but lack spots. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. From midsummer through fall, it produces branching clusters of mauve, vanilla-scented flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial pollinators. The robust seed heads that follow provide valuable late-season food for migratory songbirds, including goldfinches and juncos. In our guide to growing joe-pye weed, we cover how to cultivate wildflowers in the Eutrochium genus. This article zeros in on hollow joe-pye weed, E. fistulosum. Here’s what I’ll cover: Also known as trumpetweed or purple thoroughwort, E. fistulosum is an easy-care plant that expands its presence annually through rhizomatous spread and self-seeding. With the first hard freeze, it dies to the ground, returning the following spring with lush mounds of foliage from which its tall flowering stems rise again. While Native Americans traditionally brewed the leaves for medicinal purposes, today we value hollow joe-pye weed primarily for its ornamental appeal and its contributions to biodiversity and wildlife habitat. It also serves as an effective erosion control plant in moist soils. Quick Look Common name(s): Hollow joe-pye weed, purple thoroughwort, trumpetweed Plant type: Herbaceous perennial Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-8 Native to: Eastern North America Bloom time / season: Midsummer to fall Exposure: Full sun to partial shade Soil type: Moist, organically-rich, well-draining Soil pH: 6.0-8.0, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline Time to maturity: 1-2 years Mature size: 4-7 feet tall by 2-4 feet wide Best uses: Border, butterfly garden, cutting garden, drift, meadow, naturalize, wetland Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Eutrochium Species: Fistulosum Hollow joe-pye weed is a substantial addition to the home landscape with its upright, clumping growth habit and mature width of two to four feet. Showcase it in mixed borders and drifts, add it to butterfly gardens to increase pollinator activity, let it naturalize through meadows, and use it to curb erosion in perpetually moist garden areas. In the cutting garden, position hollow joe-pye weed toward the back where its tall stems can be harvested for striking vase arrangements. How to Grow In its native eastern North American habitat, E. fistulosum grows in moist conditions, enduring hot, humid summers and cold, snowy winters. It has poor drought tolerance, and leaves will scorch when water is insufficient. Light Plants perform best in full sun but tolerate partial shade, though stems may become leggy with sparse foliage in shadier conditions. Soil The ideal growing medium is moist, fertile loam with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline pH of between 6.0 and 8.0. Soil should be well-draining and moisture-retentive. Plants will tolerate lower-quality soil as long as it remains consistently damp and can withstand periods of flooding. Conduct a soil test to assess fertility and amend as needed with organic matter such as compost. Water Plants require consistent moisture to thrive and prefer “wet feet,” similar to irises. During dry periods, water weekly to prevent the soil from drying out. Water when the top two inches of soil is dry. Fertilizing When grown in fertile soil that mimics its native habitat, E. fistulosum requires no additional fertilization. To compensate for poor soil conditions, you can apply a slow-release granular fertilizer in spring. Choose a product with an NPK ratio of 5-10-10 to promote blooming without excessive foliage growth. Avoid direct contact between fertilizer and plant stems during application. Where to Buy You can generally find the species plant available at nurseries that stock a good range of natives. Alternatively you can shop online. Hollow Joe-Pye Weed Seeds Hollow joe-pye weed seeds are available from Smoke Camp Crafts via Amazon. Each package contains approximately 1,000 seeds. There are a few cultivated varieties available, including ‘Alba’ which sports white flowers and ‘JoJo,’ a compact cultivar with mature dimensions of three to four feet tall and two to three feet wide. ‘Jojo’ has bright pink double blooms with twice the number of petals as the species. This cultivar is sterile, so plants do not self-sow. Maintenance Native joe-pye weed is a low-maintenance perennial requiring only basic seasonal care. Tall stems may need staking for support, particularly in windy locations or rich soils that promote vigorous growth. Some gardeners use the Chelsea chop pruning technique, cutting stems back by one-third in early summer to produce shorter plants with more stable stems at bloom time. This approach results in smaller but more numerous flower clusters. Regular maintenance includes removing dead or damaged plant material throughout the season, cutting clumps to ground level after the first hard frost, and clearing away debris to prevent overwintering pests and diseases. Propagation To begin, you’ll need seeds, a division of an existing plant, or a potted nursery specimen. Let’s discuss each method: From Seed At the end of the growing season, joe-pye flowers fade and seed pods form. As the pods dry, they split open to reveal fluffy seeds inside. Collect seeds before the wind disperses them or purchase seeds for fall sowing if needed. Use a garden rake to loosen the top two to three inches of soil in your desired planting area. Lightly water the area, then sprinkle seeds generously over the prepared soil since germination rates tend to be low. Do not cover seeds with soil as they require light to germinate. Water when the top few inches of soil are dry, continuing until the first frost. The following spring, after the last average frost date, resume watering the area when the top few inches of soil are dry. After germination, when the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin them to one or two every two to four feet. Continue watering as needed through the growing season, providing an inch of water per week, including rainfall. By Division Dividing mature, overcrowded plants is another effective propagation method. After seeds disperse in autumn, push a long-handled garden shovel down into the clump to separate a section. Work the shovel around the division, lifting as you go, until you can lift it freely from the ground. Prepare the new planting site by working the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches until it is crumbly and free from debris. Set the divided clump at the same depth it was originally growing. The crown, where roots and stems meet, should sit at or slightly above ground level. Backfill around the division and tamp the soil firmly in place. Water thoroughly around the new plant, avoiding wetting the foliage. Fill the original hole left by the division with garden soil. Transplanting To transplant a potted specimen, water it thoroughly the day before. Prepare the soil as described above, digging to a depth equal to the pot depth and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and set the entire root ball in the ground at the same depth it was in the original container, ensuring the crown sits at or just above the soil surface. Backfill around the plant, tamp the soil firmly, and water thoroughly. Continue regular watering at approximately one inch per week, including rainfall. Pests and Disease When we meet its cultural requirements, E. fistulosum is not prone to pests or disease. However, in overly dry conditions, you may encounter a few pests. Flea Beetles Flea beetles are small pests in the Chrysomelidae family that vary in color, shape, and size. Adults chew characteristic “shot holes” in leaves and often carry wilting diseases, while larvae feed on roots underground. Control measures include handpicking adults and dropping them into soapy water, tilling soil around plants to eliminate burrowing grubs, and applying pyrethrin-based insecticides when necessary. PyGanic Gardening contains pyrethrins, naturally occurring insecticidal compounds derived from daisy flowers. PyGanic Gardening Apply it to foliage to target adult beetles and use it as a soil drench to eliminate grubs. PyGanic Gardening is available from Arbico Organics. Our guide to managing flea beetles has more information. Grasshoppers Young plants are most vulnerable to grasshoppers, medium to large jumping pests of various colors in the Acrididae family that can chew entire plants down to a few ragged stems. If you can catch them, handpick the pests and drop them into a bucket of soapsuds. Treat plants with a pyrethrin insecticide as above. Sawflies Sawflies belong to various insect families within the Hymenoptera order and resemble miniature wasps. Both adults and their caterpillar-like larvae are aggressive leaf feeders. Remove larvae by hand and dispose of them in soapy water, then treat affected plants with neem oil. Disease Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that tends to show up during periods of warm temperatures and high humidity. It appears as a grayish-white powdery coating on the surface of the foliage. Plants grown in part shade conditions tend to be more susceptible. If there are just a few leaves showing symptoms, you can clip those off and dispose of them in the trash. You can also use neem oil to treat a more substantial infection. Learn more about powdery mildew here. Hello, Joe With full sun, fertile soil, and consistent moisture, hollow joe-pye weed makes a strong vertical statement in the landscape with its tall stems and substantial flower clusters. As a native species, it adds further value to garden spaces by supporting local wildlife and the ecosystems they inhabit. Are you ready to welcome hollow joe-pye weed into your landscape? Let us know in the comments section below! And for more information about growing native flowers in your landscape, add these guides to your reading list next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics and Smoke Camp Crafts. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian olive trees (Elaeagnus angustifolia) are polarizing. Technically shrubs, they’re large and often pruned into small tree form. And depending on where you live, they may be beloved for their striking good looks and heavenly scent – or reviled as an ecological threat. For me, they’ll always hold a place in my heart. We had a Russian olive in my yard growing up and nothing evokes the bright, easy days of early summer childhood than the heady fragrance of the flowers. That rich perfume on the breeze is unmistakable, and even now, I’ll make a detour to stand under a flowering grove and breathe it in. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. I also find the fuzzy fruits charming and, though the trees aren’t good for climbing, they’re quite a treat for the eye with their dark wood contrasting against gray foliage. Alas, they are considered invasive in my region, so I can’t grow one. If you’re lucky enough to be able to enjoy Russian olives in your area, spare a thought for those poor, deprived souls like me, and then read on. Here’s what I’ll cover: Let’s get to know this controversial beauty. Despite the name, Russian olives aren’t related to true olives (Olea europaea). They belong to the Elaeagnaceae family, alongside sea buckthorn and silverthorns. And yes, many members of the family have thorns – Russian olive included. These can grow up to three inches long and are stiff enough to fend off livestock or unwanted visitors, making the plant useful as a defensive planting. These shrubs can reach 35 feet tall or more, with lanceolate leaves covered in a layer of fine silver or rust-colored scales. They’re alternately arranged, four inches long at maturity, and feel like velvet to the touch. The leaf tops are olive green, with silvery gray undersides that shimmer in the sunlight. In spring, creamy yellow flowers bloom in clusters. They’re intensely fragrant – one of the most powerful scents you’ll find in any garden. The main aromatic component is ethyl cinnamate, which smells like a blend of honey, wood, jasmine, citrus, and a hint of celery. You may catch it from hundreds of yards away on a warm breeze. Quick Look Common name(s): Russian olive, oleaster, silver berry Plant type: Woody deciduous shrub Hardiness (USDA Zone): 2-7 Native to: Western Asia, Eastern Europe Bloom time / season: Early summer Exposure: Full sun Soil type: Sandy, silty, loamy, well-draining Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: Up to 35 feet high by 45 feet wide Best uses: Bonsai, container, living fence, ornamental, shelterbelt, windbreak Taxonomy Order: Rosales Family: Elaeagnaceae Genus: Elaeagnus Species: Angustifolia The olive-like fruits are edible in small amounts. They’re sweet, but their dry, mealy texture is quite off-putting. You can grind them with oil to soften the flesh, but most gardeners leave them for the birds. Waxwings, robins, grosbeaks, quail, and pheasants all happily snack on the drupes. Russian olive bark is gray, and young twigs have a silvery appearance that turns reddish-brown as they age. These trees are native to western Asia and eastern Europe and were brought to North America by European settlers. Unfortunately, their toughness and adaptability soon proved to be a double-edged sword. By the mid-20th century, Russian olive had escaped cultivation and began colonizing riparian corridors, pastures, wetlands, streambanks, and irrigated areas. It’s tough and adaptable and will outcompete native cottonwoods and willows. It’s now classified as a noxious weed by the US federal government. Several states – including Montana, Wisconsin, South Carolina, Utah, Colorado, North Carolina, Minnesota, and New Mexico – regulate or restrict its sale and cultivation. Still, in regions where it’s not invasive, Russian olive can be an attractive and aromatic addition to the landscape. If it’s welcome in your area, there’s a lot to love. How to Grow Russian olives are hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 7. This makes them suitable for most northern and temperate climates. Extremely fast-growing, they can reach their mature size in under ten years, so plant thoughtfully. Slow-growing plants give us time to move them if we realize that we put them in the wrong place. But these plants might be unwieldy before you even decide whether you like where you put it. Light These shrubs grow best in full sun – at least six hours of direct sunlight per day – which helps promote strong flowering and intense fragrance. But they’re highly adaptable and can tolerate partial shade without missing a beat. Soil If there’s one word that describes this plant’s soil preference, it’s flexible. Sandy, silty, or loamy – anything goes, as long as it drains well. These shrubs are also extremely salt-tolerant, making them a smart choice for coastal gardeners. The ideal pH is slightly acidic, but anything from 5.5 to 8.5 will do. Russian olives are nitrogen-fixers, so there’s no need to fertilize, even in nutrient-poor conditions. Water As you might expect from a plant that thrives along streambanks and in wetlands, Russian olives love water. Keep the soil consistently moist, especially in their early years. That said, they’re surprisingly drought-tolerant once established. Just don’t let the soil stay dry for too long – water thoroughly when the soil dries out. Container Growing If you were really intent on growing this plant and your environment isn’t right, you could grow it in a container instead. Choose a deep pot to accommodate the plant’s extensive root system. Something like a whiskey half-barrel works well. Look for one with reinforced banding and consider putting it on wheels if you plan to move it around. Half-Oak Barrel Tractor Supply carries used whiskey half barrels with reinforced banding and they’ll ship it to your home or nearest store. Use a fresh, well-draining potting mix rather than garden soil. Whitney Farms’ organic planting soil, available from Walmart, is a solid and affordable option. It’s well-draining and fortified with kelp and alfalfa meal. Whitney Farms Organic Potting Soil Water when the top few inches of soil dry out. Some gardeners let the soil dry completely between watering – the plant can handle that too. One important note: container-growing doesn’t eliminate the plant’s invasive potential. Birds will happily eat the fruits and spread the seeds, so to prevent escape, you’ll need to remove every fruit as it forms. Don’t leave even one behind. Russian olives can even be trained as bonsai. Their fast growth and unique foliage make them an attractive option. Just remember that bonsai must be grown outdoors and you’ll still need to manage fruiting closely to prevent spread. Where to Buy While there have been some attempts at creating unique cultivars, it’s the species that you will find in stores. Russian Olive For example, you can find live trees available at Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance Russian olives have deep, aggressive roots, send up suckers, and start easily by fallen seeds. In other words, you might end up with more than one if you aren’t careful. You absolutely must keep on top of the spread. If you’re not diligent, one tree can quickly turn into a thicket. Once established, they’re not easy to remove. Cutting the tree down won’t stop it – stumps can produce dozens of shoots, and even ground-up or partially removed roots may regenerate. Uprooting a young plant might seem like a solution, but unless every bit of root is removed, it’s likely to come back. If you want to eliminate a tree, you’ll need to either poison the stump or commit to cutting back all regrowth repeatedly until the root system is exhausted – a process that can take several years. Routine pruning isn’t required, but shaping is perfectly fine. Always remove damaged, diseased, or deformed branches as needed. Russian olives tolerate pruning at any time of year. And a friendly reminder: mind the thorns. These aren’t dainty little prickles – they can grow up to three inches long and are seriously sharp. Always wear thick gloves and long sleeves when handling this plant. Propagation Like many plants that have a tendency to become invasive, Russian olives are very easy to propagate. From Seed In the fall when the fruits are fully formed, plump, and powdery, pluck a few off the tree. Remove the flesh to expose the seed at the center. Set them on a paper towel to dry for a few days then store in a cool, dark, dry place until you’re ready to sow. I will say that fresh seeds germinate more quickly. Older seeds can take up to 18 months just to germinate. It’s best to start the process in the fall, but it’s possible to sow in spring. If you have the time to start in the fall, cold-stratify the seeds for 12 weeks by placing them in a zip-top bag in moist moss in the fridge. When the ground is workable in early spring, loosen the soil and amend it with well-rotted compost. Sow seeds one inch deep and 10 feet apart. Keep the soil evenly moist while you wait for germination which can take from about a month to 18 months! From Stem Cuttings Russian olive is an excellent candidate for propagation via stem cuttings. Here’s how: In spring, take six-inch cuttings of young, flexible stems. Prepare the planting area site by loosening the soil and mixing in well-rotted compost. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone if you have some to hand. Make a hole in the soil and insert each cutting one to two inches deep and firm up the soil around them. Keep the soil moist and within a few weeks or months, you should see new growth developing. Transplanting To transplant Russian olive, begin by digging a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the plant’s container. Remove the shrub from the container and gently loosen the roots. Place the plant in the hole, ensuring it sits at the same depth it was previously growing. Backfill with soil, firm it gently around the base, and water thoroughly. If the soil settles, add a bit more to keep the plant stable. Pests and Disease While birds love the shrubs, few other herbivores do. Deer dodge them, probably thanks to their vicious thorns. Rats and mice will eat the fallen fruit, but they don’t bother the plant. Let’s look at the pests that do cause issues: Insects When the conditions are right, scale insects and aphids will feed on the tree, but they rarely cause extensive symptoms in a healthy specimen. You might notice yellowing leaves, feel a sticky residue on the stems and foliage, or see black coating on the leaves. This black coating is sooty mold, and it’s attracted to the sticky honeydew that both of these sapsucking insects secrete. You probably won’t need to treat an infestation in a mature specimen, though young trees with heavy infestations should be addressed. Treatment with horticultural oil once every two weeks until the pests are gone should be enough. Disease Russian olives are generally resilient, but they can fall victim to phomopsis canker, a serious disease caused by the fungi Phomopsis arnoldiae and P. elaeagni. In some regions, it devastates trees in large swaths of the midwest and east. In other areas, it’s no big deal – yet. Unlike many pathogens that target weakened plants, phomopsis can strike healthy trees and kill them within a single season. Symptoms include reddish-brown to black sunken lesions, oozing cankers, and black fungal growth. Infected branches begin to die back, often starting from the bottom of the tree and progressing upward as the cankers girdle branches and cut off moisture flow. Eventually, the entire shrub may succumb. Prune off infected branches during dry periods in summer or winter. If the disease continues to spread, complete removal and proper disposal of the tree is the only effective control. A Feast for the Senses Few trees engage all the senses. The fruits offer a sweet flavor, the fuzzy leaves and drupes feel soft and velvety, and the rustling foliage in a breeze is pure calm. The shimmering silver foliage adds visual drama to any landscape. And then there’s the fragrance – rich, heady, and completely unique. It’s hands down my favorite scent in the world. I’m not even sure I’d bottle it if I could. Are you growing Russian olive? Let us know in the comments section below! And for more information about growing shrubs in your landscape, add these guides to your reading list next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Nature Hills Nursery, Tractor Supply Co., and Walmart. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

When it comes to bathrooms, most of us crave a space that feels serene, calming, and tranquil. Few styles encapsulate that mood quite as well as Scandinavian bathroom ideas. Characterized by neutral tones, organic materials, and a minimalist approach, it's a look that's become synonymous with relaxation (which is why it simply belongs in the bathroom).In our view, that should be reason enough to lean into Scandinavian design when it comes to designing a powder room, bathroom, or ensuite. If you still need convincing, the fact that it's also such an effortless style to incorporate should help. The core principles — simplicity, functionality, and a focus on nature — make it hard to step a foot wrong, even for the more unattuned interior designer.Whether you're planning an entire bathroom reno or you're just looking for a few simple decor updates, let Scandinavian bathroom ideas underpin your moodboard. From tiling inspiration to unexpected materials that offer a cool, contemporary edge, here are seven Scandinavian bathroom ideas to pin for your next decorating project. You may like 1. Wrap the Space in Simple White TilesWhite square tiles embody Scandi simplicity, plus they also make a timeless design choice.(Image credit: Henrik Walentin)Simplicity is a key tenet when embracing a Scandinavian style, so keep your modern bathroom ideas pared-back. A simple square tile, for example, feels distinctly Scandi, plus it makes a timeless design choice that will age with grace.It's exactly what home stylist Henrik Walentin opted for in his bathroom, wrapping 15x15 cm white tiles up the wall. It's a decision he says feels like a "classic Danish design choice", merging a crisp white color palette with the sleek, clean grout lines for a contemporary Scandi feel.Henrik wanted to make sure his bathroom was imbued with personality and character, so splashes of color were essential. "Usually, Danes also have white ceilings, but using color to add personality is becoming more popular," he notes, referencing the upper portion of the walls and ceiling."The cabinets were cobalt blue before, but I sent them to a professional spray painter about 30 years ago and had them done in a light aqua color," he adds. "They still work in this room even though I always keep my eye on new things."2. Merge Clean Lines, Warm Wood, and Black AccentsLooking for a contemporary iteration of Scandinavian bathroom ideas? Try warm wood tones punctuated by sleek black accents.(Image credit: Peak Visuals. Design: Elana Designs)Nothing says 'Scandi-cool' quite like wood tones combined with decorating with black accents. In a bathroom, matte black hardware and ironmongery make the perfect contrast to natural wooden cabinetry. Add crisp, clean lines and symmetry, and you've got yourself a contemporary Scandinavian-style bathroom.Take the space above, for example. Keen to create a crisp, contemporary bathroom, interior designer Elana Mendelson took inspiration from the modern Scandi style. "The natural oak vanity brings in a grounded element of hygge, while the black fixtures keep it clean, crisp, and current," she says. "The details are simple yet thoughtful for a beautiful, relaxing, and layered haven."For a similar Scandinavian color palette, prioritize natural wooden joinery when planning your space, then add in some black accents to contrast with your white walls and vanity counter.Elana MendelsonSocial Links NavigationPrincipal DesignerElana Mendelson is an industry design leader and the CEO and principal designer of Elana Designs, a boutique interior design firm. Born and raised in the greater DMV, Elana designs interiors for families where beauty and aesthetics meet function and versatility. With over 20 years of experience, her expertise spans new construction, renovations, and full-scope furnishings. She thoughtfully partners with select families, overseeing every aspect of the project, from creative conception and curation to cohesive construction and completion.3. Stick to a Neutral PaletteIt goes without saying, but neutrals are a non-negotiable in a classic Scandinavian bathroom design.(Image credit: Douglas Friedman. Design: Mark Michaels)A neutral color scheme is a good place to start when designing a Scandinavian bathroom, but that extends beyond white. Off-whites, taupes, and greige colors make for a more nuanced space, reminiscent of a spa. They'll soften your space for a bathroom that feels less sterile and more relaxing.Much of the time, these neutral tones don't need to be artificial; instead, they can be found in raw, organic materials. "This guest bathroom combines natural materials and thoughtful details to create a serene, spa-like atmosphere," says Mark Tremblay of Marc-Michaels Interior Design, referencing the space shown above. "Sleek marble tile wraps the floor and shower walls, while natural wood planks line the ceiling, bringing warmth and balance," he adds. The result is a warm, layered space that's instantly calming. AM.PM Oreus Solid Mango Three-Legged Footstool You'd be surprised how useful a short stool can be in any bathroom — and this one adds interest through its timber grain and architectural silhouette, while sticking to a neutral palette. 4. Introduce a Cool, Contemporary EdgeSleek, modern materials add a dose of the unexpected to Scandinavian bathroom ideas.(Image credit: Einar Aslaksen. Design: Smau Arkitektur)Organic materials and natural finishes might be the typical Scandinavian way, but for a contemporary edge, consider adding in some Scandi decor that feels more unexpected. In the bathroom above, designed by Bjarte Sandal, founder of Smau Architecture, a stainless steel vessel sink offsets the panelled walls and soft pink tiles."Rooted in Scandinavian clarity, the design balances soft ceramics and warm pine with the precision of steel — calm, tactile, and quietly alive," says Bjarte. We love how the cool, sleek sink echoes the cabinet mirror above, adding a modern edge that feels unexpected yet works so effectively.5. Use Organic TexturesKeep your Scandinavian bathroom ideas feeling natural with raw wood and stone finishes. (Image credit: Emily Redfield. Design: Mark Michaels)Texture is another key component of the Scandinavian style. In a living room or bedroom, this might mean beautiful bouclé upholstery or rattan furniture, but for obvious reasons, soft textures don't work as well with Scandinavian bathroom ideas. Instead, capitalize on the raw textures of organic materials — think concrete basins, honed travertine, or raw plaster.Textural design was integral to the serene powder room idea above, designed by the team at Marc-Michaels. "A honed quartz countertop in a soft pebble hue makes a statement with its waterfall edge and sculptural vessel sink," says Mark. "Organic textures bring warmth to the space, from the oak vanity to the grass cloth wallcovering by Donghia, while overhead, a natural selenite pendant from John Richard adds a grounding presence." Borough Wharf Traub Marble Square Sink A great way to add natural, raw materials to your Scandinavian bathroom ideas is through your choice of sink. This marble style (available in three different colors) will anchor your space, adding texture and interest, immediately. 6. Mix Cool and Warm TonesFor a comforting Scandi space, off-set cool metals with beautiful beige tones.(Image credit: Einar Aslaksen. Design: Smau Arkitektur)Don't feel like you need to commit to an entirely warm or cool palette when designing a Scandinavian bathroom. In fact, some of the best Scandi-inspired spaces use warm and cool tones side by side. In the powder room above, the warm clay-tone tiles soften the cool, silvery steel of the vanity and sink, creating an effective, more nuanced palette."The design is inspired by Scandinavian sensibilities," says Bjarte. "Clean lines, honest materials, and a mix of cool steel and warm tile — like a motorcycle, cruising along the sandy shores of the Norwegian coastline."This mix of warm and cool can also be interpreted more overtly if you want to embrace the Scandinavian coastal trend — imagine cool blues and teals contrasted with sandy tones. Claybrook Studio Bungalow 22 Peach Cocktail Square These peachy-cool tiles feel neutral but still interesting, and would form the perfect backdrop for any Scandinavian bathroom ideas you've been eyeing off. 7. Embrace Raw MaterialsLimewash walls, raw plaster finishes, and natural brass hardware give this Scandi-inspired bathroom an artisanal feel.(Image credit: Mike Divello. Design: Urbanology)Scandinavian bathroom ideas often champion artisanal design elements and spotlight heritage craftsmanship. These don't need to be strictly 'Scandi' to communicate the same handcrafted feel, either. For example, this might translate to limewash walls, hand-finished joinery, or bespoke tiling.It's something Ginger Curtis of Urbanology designs wanted to prioritize in the Texas ranch home seen above. "The space embraces a serene palette and tactile richness that invites calm," she says. "At its heart is a sink and shower set handcrafted by a father-son artisan team in Vermont — raw, natural brass that speaks an understated beauty. The plaster walls reflect light in a way that feels both grounded and ethereal, and overhead, a warm wood ceiling adds a sense of cocooning comfort — a counterbalance to the cool, minimal materials."The bathroom also uses European micro concrete throughout, applied by one of only two US-qualified artisans. "It brings a seamless, sculptural quality to the built-ins and shower," says Ginger. "Every element in this space is deeply considered, quiet yet commanding. A perfect reflection of intentional design that honors craftsmanship, texture, and timeless beauty."Ginger CurtisFounder and CEOGinger Curtis is the author of Beauty By Design (Harvest House Publishers) and a sought-after speaker and design & lifestyle authority/expert. Her work has been featured in prominent national magazines and books, including Architectural Digest, House Beautiful, Wall Street Journal, Forbes, Better Homes & Gardens, Raw Interiors, and Architecture Today. FAQsWhat Is a Nordic Bath?If there's one thing our Nordic and Scandinavian cousins do well, it's wellness. The Nordic bath, otherwise known as a Scandinavian bath, is an outdoor spa traditionally made of wood and heated with a wood fire. (Think of it as a more natural variation of a hot tub without jets or electric heating.)This hot bath is traditionally followed by a cold plunge or shower — the belief being that alternating between hot and cold water immersion can rejuvenate the body.If you have the space, positioning a Nordic bath near the entrance to your bathroom could be a game-changing Scandinavian bathroom idea.Few design aesthetics feel as naturally aligned to the bathroom as Scandinavian style. From your wall color to your tile, it's a place where simplicity and functionality converge in perfect harmony, resulting in a calming, tranquil design that feels effortlessly chic.To really lean into Scandinavian bathroom ideas, be inspired by the ideas above and prioritize natural materials, raw textures, and a neutral color palette. The rest is up to you. Whether you want a traditional minimalist spa-like bathroom or a bolder iteration of Scandinavian maximalism, let this classic style pave the way for your next bathroom project. Source link

[shelyold]

By: Shelly Posted: Jul 17, 2025 We all love strawberry shortcake. Now, meet blueberry shortcake! This easy dessert has buttery shortcake biscuits layered with juicy blueberry sauce, all made from scratch. If your fridge is as stocked with fresh berries as mine at the moment, check out more easy summer desserts like blueberry cobbler, this moist blueberry bundt cake, and a rustic blueberry buckle! This blueberry shortcake recipe is a fun reimagining of classic strawberry shortcake! I make this shortcake recipe with the best-ever homemade biscuits and sweet, glossy blueberry sauce. Served with a generous heap of whipped cream and a scoop of ice cream, it’s a light and easy dessert for summer. Reasons I’m Loving This Blueberry Shortcake Recipe 100% homemade. I’ll show you how to make the easiest shortcake biscuits, and how to assemble them into a delicious dessert with gooey blueberry sauce (also from scratch). Nothing beats homemade! Ready in under an hour. This is the best part! Making shortcake isn’t a day-long activity. This blueberry shortcake is quick, and you can cook down your blueberries in the time it takes for the biscuits to bake in the oven.  Great for summer. Prepare the biscuits and blueberries in advance, and I have the perfect light summer dessert that’s ready to assemble. Biscuits ingredients. Blueberry sauce imgredients. Ingredients You’ll Need The crumbly texture of shortcake is very similar to shortbread. The main difference is that shortcake recipes include baby powder for extra lift, similar to a scone. It comes down to a handful of easy pantry ingredients, which I cover below, along with what you’ll need for the blueberry sauce. Scroll to the recipe card for the printable amounts and instructions. Dry Ingredients – Flour, white sugar, baking powder, and salt. Butter – Cold from the fridge and cut into cubes. Egg – Some shortcake recipes skip the egg, but I find it adds richness and makes the biscuit less dry. Half and Half – You could also use heavy cream. Blueberries – I made this shortcake with fresh summer blueberries, but you can use fresh ot frozen, depending on what’s available to you. If you use frozen berries, you’ll need to simmer the sauce for longer (unless you thaw and drain them first). Sugar – Any kind works here. Lemon Juice and Zest – Remember to zest the lemon before you juice it! You’ll need one medium or large-sized lemon for 1 tablespoon of zest and juice. To Serve Whipped Cream – Homemade or store-bought whipped cream. Ice Cream – Again, this can be store-bought or homemade vanilla ice cream Extra Blueberries Cake vs. Shortcake No, shortcake isn’t just a regular cake that didn’t go through its growth spurt! Despite the name, shortcake is actually less like cake and more like a biscuit, made sweeter. Cake, as we know, is richer, more moist, and fluffy, often frosted. How to Make Blueberry Shortcake I’ll usually prepare the biscuits and make the blueberry sauce afterward while they bake in the oven. This is the sort of dessert that’s great for crowds and dinner parties, since it’s quick and you can prep a big batch at once. Follow the steps here, and scroll to the recipe card for the printable instructions. Shortcake Biscuits Cut the butter into the dry ingredients. Add the wet ingredients. First, mix the dry ingredients. Whisk the dry ingredients together in a bowl. Next, cut in the butter until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. I usually get in there with my hands, but a pastry cutter or a fork works here, too. Add the wet ingredients. Now, mix in the egg and ¾ cup of half and half. Keep mixing as the dough comes together.  Turn out the dough and knead. Cut out the biscuits. Knead the dough. Next, knead the dough 2-3 times on a floured surface.  Shape the biscuits. Afterward, press the dough out into a circle, and use a biscuit cutter to cut out 2-3 biscuits. Make sure they’re the same size so they bake evenly. You’ll need to re-roll the dough before cutting out 2-3 more biscuits. You should end up with 6 in total. Fill the pan. Bake! Fill the pan and bake. Arrange the biscuits on a lined baking sheet, and brush the tops with half and half. Then, sprinkle on some sugar and bake the biscuits at 375ºF for 20-24 minutes, until golden. Blueberry Sauce Cook the blueberries ad sugar. Add lemon zest. Cook the berries. Combine and heat the blueberries and sugar in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the berries have cooked down and thickened, lower the heat and stir in the lemon zest and juice. Cook for another minute, then cool Assemble and Serve Add the blueberry sauce. Layer with ice cream and whipped cream. Cut the biscuits. Start by cutting the cooled shortbread biscuits in half (one biscuit per serving). Assemble. Spread blueberry sauce over the bottom half of the biscuit, add whipped cream and ice cream, and place the top half over the filling. I like to serve my blueberry shortcake with any leftover fresh blueberries. Tips for a Successful Shortcake  Use cold ingredients. Keep your butter and cream cold in the fridge until you’re ready to use them. Similar to making a pie crust or pastry, cold ingredients are key to a flaky, light shortcake biscuit. Measure correctly. This is always my #1 baking advice. For accurate measuring, make sure to weigh the flour using a kitchen scale if you have one. If not, do NOT scoop the flour directly from the bag. Rather, spoon the flour into your measuring cup, and then level off the top with a knife. If you’re short on time, substitute the homemade blueberry sauce with a can of blueberry pie filling instead. You could also use refrigerated biscuit dough for the biscuits! Storing Leftovers Store the unused biscuits at room temperature. They’ll last for 3-4 days in an airtight container. Keep the blueberry sauce in the fridge. Store it tightly covered for up to 1 week.  Freeze. Alternatively, you can freeze the biscuits and blueberry sauce for up to 2 months. Thaw the biscuits at room temperature and the sauce in the fridge. Print clock clock iconcutlery cutlery iconflag flag iconfolder folder iconinstagram instagram iconpinterest pinterest iconfacebook facebook iconprint print iconsquares squares iconheart heart iconheart solid heart solid icon Description Blueberry shortcake is a fun take on strawberry shortcake! This easy dessert has buttery shortcake biscuits layered with glossy homemade blueberry sauce and whipped cream. Shortcake Biscuits 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated white sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/3 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 1 large egg 3/4 cup half and half plus 1 tablespoon more for brushing Granulated sugar for sprinkling on top Blueberry Sauce 5 cups fresh blueberries 2 1/2 pints 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1 tablespoon lemon juice For Serving Whipped cream Fresh blueberries Vanilla ice cream Make the Shortcake Biscuits Preheat your oven to 375ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In a medium bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter to the dry ingredients. Work it into the flour with your hands, pressing the butter and flour together in your fingers, until you have a mixture resembling coarse breadcrumbs. Add the egg and 3/4 cups of half and half. Mix with a spoon until a ball of dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, then knead 2-3 times with your hands, or until there aren’t any dry bits and you have a cohesive ball of dough. Pat the dough into a circle and use a biscuit cutter to create 6 evenly sized biscuits. Usually, I can cut 2-3 biscuits from the initial circle of dough, then I re-roll the dough scraps and cut more. The remaining scraps of dough are then rolled up into the last biscuit. Place the biscuits on your prepared baking sheet. With a pastry brush, top each biscuit with some half and half. Then finish with a sprinkle of sugar. Bake for 20-24 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven and cool completely on the baking tray. Make the Blueberry Sauce In a large pot, combine the blueberries and sugar. Cook over medium-low heat until the blueberries have released their juices and the mixture has thickened somewhat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Cook about 1 minute longer. Remove the sauce from the heat and set it aside to cool. Assemble and Serve For each serving of blueberry shortcake, cut a biscuit in half. Add blueberry sauce over the bottom half of each biscuit, then top with a generous amount of whipped cream and ice cream. Place the top half of the biscuit on top of the whipped cream. Add fresh blueberries on the side, if desired. Want To Save This Recipe?Find more recipes like this: Source link

[shelyold]

Key Points Green bean varieties can take anywhere between 50 to 75 days to reach maturity.Firm, smooth, and evenly colored pods are signs the beans are ready for harvest.Several factors can impact the plant’s growth time, from soil temperature to drought stress. Knowing when to harvest green beans is vital for protecting the plant’s health and guaranteeing a good yield of veggies. In fact, when picking beans at the right time, you can also ensure multiple rounds of ripe bean pods and continued bean production throughout the growing season. Ahead, we share tips from garden pros on exactly when to harvest green beans to safeguard your crop. Meet the Expert Luke Hammond is a farmer, educator, and the director of brand advancement for Seedtime. Adam Weiss is a gardener and founder of Pike Lane Gardens, a corporate wellness program that brings organic vegetable gardening to the workplace How Long Does It Take to Grow Different Green Bean Varieties Depending on the specific variety, it can take approximately 50 to 75 days to grow green beans from planting to harvest. Here are just a few common green bean varieties and their average growth periods. Provider (Bush Bean): Around 50 days to maturity. This is a fast-growing green bean great for cooler climates.Contender (Bush Bean): Around 50 days. This green bean variety is known for high yields and sweet, crisp pods.Monte Gusto (Pole Bean): Around 58 days. This is a yellow bean, great to grow alongside typical green varieties for some diversity in terms of color and flavor. It is a slower-growing bean but produces over a longer season. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 4 Signs Green Beans Are Ready for Harvest Pods Are Firm and Smooth. Zeroing in on bean pod development, you can easily discern if your green beans are ready for harvest. Typically, your bean pods should be between 4 to 6 inches long, Luke Hammond—farmer, educator, and the director of brand advancement for Seedtime, says. However, you also want to make sure the pods are firm and smooth. To check for this, gently touch the pod and press it between your fingers. A ripe pod will feel smooth to the touch and offer some resistance when pressed. Seeds Inside Are Visible but Not Bulging If your bean pods are ready for harvest, you should be able to see their outline through the bean pod skin. However, they are overripe if they "bulge," Hammond says. “They should be allowed to dry at that point and be harvested for dry beans only,” he adds, meaning the beans can be kept as dehydrated beans for storage and later use. The Bean Pod Snaps When Bent Green beans are also called “snap beans.” This is because breaking a bean pod in half with your fingers, you can hear a distinctive snapping sound, once the pod has broken. “The snap test” is a tried-and-true method for determining if a green bean pod is at its peak ripeness. Overripe beans, on the other hand, may bend without snapping, while underripe beans are tough and hard to break. The Color Should Be Consistent Not all green beans are green. But whatever their mature hue, their overall color should be even and healthy-looking, indicating that the beans are ready to harvest. Dull and discolored beans tend to be over-ripe, while green beans that have yellow leaves or those with brown spots may have signs of disease. Factors That Affect Growth Time Several factors can impact your green beans’ growth time. Variety Type: Whether or not your green beans are bush or pole beans can affect their duration of growth. Pole beans take longer than bush beans because the former spends much of its time climbing before blooming. Most pole bean varieties take around 60 to 75 days from planting to harvest, whereas bush beans mature in about 50-60 days. Temperature: A favorite summer crop among gardeners, green beans can be negatively impacted by cool soil, which slows their germination and growth. According to Hammond, the optimal soil temperature for green bean germination is between 70-85°F. Soil Quality: Poor or compacted soil can delay the beans’ development, says Hammond. This is because the plant prefers well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Plus, loose soil allows the plant’s roots to grow easily and prevents waterlogging. Watering Consistency: Drought stress can stunt green bean growth. Though the plant is typically grown in the summer months, green beans enjoy frequent waterings. Hence, regions that experience summer rain can support this vegetable well. Tips for Growing Green Beans Follow these tips from garden experts to help your green beans thrive. Plant your green beans in well-draining, fertile soil: Green beans like frequent waterings, but they don’t like wet feet (soggy roots). But equally important is fertile soil full of nutrients, such as loam soil. Hammond recommends running a soil test or consulting with an agronomist for proper fertility protocol to follow when it comes to this vegetable. Fertilize your green beans: At the same time, you want to add nitrogen to your soil through a granular or liquid concentrate fertilizer to keep the plant growing, Adam Weiss, gardener and founder of Pike Lane Gardens, says. “Do this every 10 -14 days to stimulate additional growth.” Wait for warm soil: Remember, green beans are typically a summer to early fall crop. And so, you want to make sure your soil is at least 60°F, Hammond says, before directly sowing outdoors. If the ground is too cold, the green beans will take longer to grow or may not reach maturity at all. Keep plants evenly watered: Green beans love being watered, especially when flowering. “Once you see flowers on your growing plant, know that each flower represents a forthcoming bean,” Weiss says. And each of these blooms needs the support of water to keep it growing. Drought stress during flowering can stunt pod development. Harvest regularly: Picking mature green beans from your plant will encourage more pod production. Plus, it will prevent beans from getting tough or overripe, says Hammond. Waiting too long can cause a stringy and tougher bean crop. Source link

[shelyold]

Hi GPODers! You may think that working for a gardening magazine is the equivalent of being paid to spend hours in your garden, documenting essential chores and taking endless photos of the beauty you’re cultivating. Unfortunately, this often isn’t the case. While our home gardens are a great place for trailing, experimenting, and chasing personal garden joys, we often spend far more hours in the gardens of others rather than our own (admittedly, not something we can complain too much about). This is exactly the case for Jack Coyier, our in-house garden photographer and videographer. Jack, based in Des Moines, Iowa, is constantly traveling to gardens across the country (and globe) to capture stunning gardens in the most breathtaking ways. But in-between work trips and the hours he spends behind a computer editing footage, Jack occasionally has the time to explore his own plantings and capture his home garden with the same thoughtfulness and technique that he so masterfully captures others. Below is a sampling of stunning photos from one of those rare occasions last month. The focus of these photos are the flowers that were filling Jack’s garden last month, but there is also plenty of gorgeous foliage to admire. ‘Burning Hearts’ false sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides var. scabra ‘Burning Hearts’, Zones 3–9) blooms are made even more vibrant when contrasted with the dark ‘Royal Purple’ smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’, Zones 4–8) leaves behind. Continuing with this high-contrast color theme, Cannova® Bronze Scarlet canna lily (Canna x generalis ‘Bronze Scarlet’, Zones 7–11) has bright, fire-engine red blooms and tropical foliage in a delectable deep bronze. It’s clear that Jack’s garden is full of hot shades as it transitions to summer. More bold blooms come from these ‘Tuscan Sun’ false sunflowers (Heliopsis helianthoides ‘Tuscan Sun’, Zones 3–9). If you’re looking for flowers that will pack a hot, vibrant punch, Luscious® Citrus Blend™ lantana (Lantana camara ‘Balandusbi’, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) will always be an excellent addition. Clusters of bright reds, oranges, and yellows make them great companions for a multitude of other flowers in beds and containers. A great example of a plant lantana would pair with wonderfully is the always-amazing butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa, Zones 3–9), creating a combination that is both beautiful and beneficial. Yet another perfect garden moment captured by Jack. Layers of colors and textures are made that much more captivating by the subtle glow of the sun. Light can be your best friend or greatest enemy when planting a garden, and it’s no different when you’re trying to photograph one. With Jack’s years of experience, he knows exactly how to make natural light work for him. When your plantings are missing a little something, a container is an easy way to bridge those garden gaps. Red, orange, and yellow is the dominate color palette in Jack’s beds, but a trio of annuals helps tie in some of the other pink blooms that are scattered throughout. As a garden photographer, it’s no surprise that plants with high contrast are favored in Jack’s garden. The dark foliage on this bright pink dahlia makes it look like the blooms are going to burst right through my screen! Lastly, this close up of ‘Southern Charm’ verbascum (Verbascum ‘Southern Charm’, Zones 5–9) is absolutely magnificent. With just a few flowers open, I can’t imagine the beauty that awaits as this spire continues to unfurl its peachy-pink blooms. I hope you all enjoyed this gorgeous collection of flower photos from Jack! I’m always blown away by Jack’s incredible photography, and hope you feel inspired to indulge your inner garden photographer this week. If you have a little extra time in the morning or late afternoon, break out your camera or phone and pretend you’re photographing your garden for a glossy magazine spread. Have fun and experiment—you might get a whole new perspective on your plantings. And when the photoshoot is over, consider sharing your favorite shots with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products RAINPOINT Sprinkler Timer with Brass Swivel Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. - Pure brass water inlet and metal thread can withstand up to 116psi. - Built-in metal filter gaskets can prevent sediment and other larger particles - Through the Sprinkler Timer program, you can set the start time, watering duration, and watering frequency Gilmour 5/8" x 25' Round Weeper Soaker Hose Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Lightweight garden hose is made of 100% recycled vinyl for clog resistant, consistent soaking in the garden or around foundations. Can be installed above or below ground to efficiently deliver water directly to plant roots. Can be linked with other hoses to create your own DIY garden drip irrigation system, and is flexible for easy storage and space saving. Gilmour 811673-1001 Sprinkler Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. - 43-ft. spray distance (up to 5, 800 sq. ft. coverage) - Adjustable collar for partial- to full-circle coverage - Dial precisely sets spray distance - On/off switch eliminates trips from sprinkler to spigot Source link

[shelyold]

Nigella is a classic beauty, bringing beautiful colour and whimsy to gardens and bouquets. Ready to fall head over heels for love-in-a-mist? Here are some top tips for growing the nigella plant as a cut flower or dried seed pod. While flowers never truly go out of style, certain blooms can become trendy. I’ve noticed many ‘old-fashioned’ flowers become new favourites for florists and flower gardeners alike, including sweet peas, hydrangeas, and my personal favourite, lilacs. I predict that love-in-a-mist (nigella) will have a similar rise! This old-fashioned cottage flower has looks airy, is super easy to grow, and is versatile both in the garden and in the vase. I first became familiar with the nigella plant a few years ago, as I was looking for interesting seed heads to collect. What I didn’t expect was how much I would also love the flower. I was soon torn between cutting the flowers for bouquets or waiting for the nigella pods to use instead. Let me get you hooked on growing your own nigella flowers. Here are my top tips! Nigella pods dry beautifully, retaining their unique shape and foliage. Meet the Nigella Plant Known commonly as love-in-a-mist, Nigella damascena is native to southern Europe, North Africa, and Southwest Asia. It’s recognized for its ferny foliage and lacy bracts that surround the flower, giving it a very whimsical appearance. It belongs perfectly in a fairy garden. Nigella flowers are star-shaped and can come in single or double blooms. They’re most known for being blue, but also come in shades of purple, pink, and white. Bees love the flower, but they’re considered deer-resistant. The flowers bloom in spring and early summer for a few weeks before they turn into seed pods, which can also be harvested and dried to use as a textural ingredient in fresh or dried bouquets. A happy nigella plant naturally branches and produces plenty of blooms. When to Start Nigella Damascena Seeds Nigella plants are hardy in zones 2-11 and are considered a cool-season annual. This means they like a cold start to life and are best grown in the spring. For those with mild winters, you can sow directly in the fall. This will give you the tallest stems and earliest growth, though you may need row cover as cold protection. If starting in the fall, plant seeds 6-8 weeks before the first fall frost. Personally, I haven’t had much luck sowing in the fall and prefer to start seeds in the spring. Direct sowing is easiest, as nigella plants are known to dislike transplanting. You can sow seeds directly outside 1-2 weeks before the last frost (they are frost-tolerant). I’ve started my seeds indoors without any trouble. If starting indoors, you can put the seeds in the freezer for ten days to speed up germination. Start the seeds inside 6-8 weeks before the last frost, and move them outside after the last frost. Succession plant the nigella seeds every few weeks until June to get the longest growing season. Planting Nigella Nigella seeds require darkness to sprout, so you’ll want to cover the seeds lightly with soil. It takes 10-14 days for the sprouts to germinate. Space or thin your nigella to be six inches apart. They grow best in full sun, but will also grow in partial sun. AKA, the more sun, the more blooms. Nigella plants grow to be 18-24 inches tall. It takes 65-70 days for it to flower, and 80-85 days for it to produce seed pods. Nigella flowers can also grow in containers. If growing in a container, ensure it has room to accommodate the mature plant and drainage holes. A one-gallon container for one nigella plant is a good rule of thumb. A nigella seedling before it grows its first set of “true leaves.” Caring for Nigella Flowers Nigella flowers will naturally branch out, so there’s no need to pinch young plants. As a spring flower, it will bloom well in conditions under 24°C (75°F). Once temperatures get hot and regularly above 27°C (80°F), the plant will begin to die back. Nigella plants have average moisture needs. They prefer consistent moisture, but can tolerate some drought. They do best in well-draining soil. To encourage more blooming, you can fertilize once a month. The plant may self-sow depending on the conditions, and if you leave some seed heads on the plant. You can deadhead flowers to promote more blooms, but this also prevents seed pods from developing. Harvesting Nigella Flowers Nigella flowers work wonderfully in arrangements as a filler, thanks to their lacy foliage. They give a very airy feel to an arrangement, as well as texture. If you’re harvesting flowers, cut the flower when it is three-quarters of the way open. The flowers will continue to open after cutting. Harvest the central stem first, almost to ground level, leaving the side shoots to continue growing. Flowers should last 7-10 days in a vase. Leave the flowers on the plant if you want to harvest the seed pods. The dried nigella pods are so pretty and unique, and dry beautifully. Harvest the seed pods early to prevent blemishes and so they don’t dump seeds. Ideally, the stripe should still be visible. Hang the nigella pods upside down for 2-3 weeks in a cool, dry place. Then they should last you for years to come. Ideally, harvest when the pods are still green and the stripes are showing. Notable Nigella Plant Varieties Some varieties sold in nurseries are used as bedding plants, while others are better suited for cut flowers thanks to their height. Here are a few to use for cut flower arrangements. ‘Miss Jekyll’ is one of the most popular varieties to grow, with beautiful double blooms. ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ gives a beautiful royal blue hue while ‘Miss Jekyll Rose’ has rose-white flowers that turn a beautiful plum as they age. ‘Albion’ has pure white flowers, which make them great for just about any flower arrangement. They produce a unique, deep mahogany seed pod when dried. ‘Delft Blue’ is one of the most popular cut flower varieties right now. It has white flowers with dark blue and purple streaks. ‘Persian Jewels’ starts off a pale baby blue before transforming into hues of purple, blue, white, and in between. Dried bouquet featuring pods from Nigella Plum Loco Mix FAQ About Nigella Damascena Is love-in-a-mist poisonous? The plant itself is not really considered edible and is only considered slightly poisonous. It is more often used as an ornamental.The seeds can be used for cooking, with a somewhat nutmeg-like and slightly spicy flavour. However, Nigella sativa (also known as black cumin or fennel flower) is more commonly used in its place, since it has a better flavour. What is the love-in-a-mist flower’s meaning? The name love-in-a-mist comes from the flower being nestled in lacy foliage, giving an airy-mist-like appearance. The Latin name, Nigella Damascena, comes from the Latin word for black “niger” due to the colour of the seeds, and Damascus, Syria where the plant can be found.In a bouquet, it can symbolize the openness to love, heart strength, or unrequited love. Is nigella a perennial or annual? Nigellas are considered annuals. They often won’t make it through a whole gardening season, no matter your zone, as they prefer cool conditions and will die back in heat. However, they can be re-seeders, meaning that they may sow seeds that will bloom the following year. More Cut Flowers to Grow From Vancouver, BC, Holly is Garden Therapy’s Content Manager. She has a BFA in Writing from the University of Victoria as well as a diploma in Floristry Design from Burnaby CCE. At home, she loves to grow cut flowers and dried flowers for her business, Dirty Daisy Florals, and is an avid houseplant collector and lover of bees. You can find her at @dirtydaisyflorals and @hollyheuversocial. Source link

[shelyold]

Lavender is a lovely fragrant plant that brings a burst of colour to your garden. It’s also one of my favourite plants to use for crafts and recipes. Here’s how to harvest lavender in a way that helps you enjoy healthier plants for longer, and gives you a whole lot of gorgeous lavender to work with. Plus, I’ll show you 24 creative ways to use lavender once harvested! Lavender is by far my very favourite scent. I love it fresh when the plants are in bloom, as it dries around the garden, in sachets tucked into my pillow at night, or as bath salts when I soak away the aches of the gardening day. This magical herb is said to promote relaxation, relieve stress, and even soothe an achy head. Oh, and the bees and butterflies love it too. We can’t forget the pollinators. Too often, I hear landscapers and gardeners talk about how short-lived lavender is as a garden plant. After growing it for almost 15 years in my home garden and visiting/interviewing a number of growers and lavender farms, I have to say that it can look gorgeous in your garden for a whole lot longer, with just a bit of care. When you harvest lavender, you not only get to use the blooms to create scrumptious DIYs, but you actually help your plant yield more blooms and live longer too. This post will cover… Lavender is a beautiful ornamental, plus it’s scent has many uses in aromatherapy and beauty. When to Harvest Lavender Like most things, knowing how to get the best lavender harvest is all about timing. The exact time will depend on your gardening zone and climate, but I’ve got a quick trick that will make knowing when to harvest easy. The best time to harvest English lavender is when the flower buds have formed on the plant but the flowers themselves have not yet opened. Lavender flowers harvested at this time of year will fall off the stems more easily when dry, making it easier to collect. Closed buds will also retain fragrance and colour longer. Need a visual? The image below shows the stages of bloom. The one on the left has fully formed, closed buds. The middle image has a mix of open and closed buds. The image on the right has fully open flowers, some of which are finished blooming. Choose buds that look like the left image. Lavender buds (farthest left) are the best for harvesting as they retain their colour and fragrance best. How to Harvest Lavender To harvest lavender, use sharp bypass pruners and gather a small handful of long flower stems. Be sure that you are leaving behind at least two sets of leaves on the green part of the stem. If you cut all the way back to the woody part of the stem, that stem will not regrow. I like to be generous and leave at least 3-4 sets of leaves on the plant, then go back and prune it to two sets of leaves on the green stem. This ensures that I’m not damaging the plant that gives me all these beautiful flowers! Continue collecting stems in your hand until you have a nice-sized bundle. Secure the bundle with twine or a rubber band and continue until the plant is fully harvested. Pruning the plants like this will keep the shrub tidy and evergreen in some colder climates. If your plants are leggy and you see lots of dead wood, it’s a good idea to summer prune them each year until they regain a tidier shape. You can safely prune lavender plants twice in the growing season to help define and maintain their shape. Grab handfuls of lavender and cut it to make it easier and faster. How to Dry Lavender Once you have harvested lavender, you’ll need to dry it out before storing it. Thankfully, this is very easy to do. Dry lavender bunches by hanging them upside down in a warm, dry spot, out of direct sunlight. Under eaves, in the garage, or somewhere in the garden that is protected is ideal. You want to avoid moisture as much as possible. My herb dryer is an old painting ladder outfitted with some hooks for the twine. But I have also dried lavender along a shady fence and made it into a dried lavender wreath. Adding some drying lavender around your home will make it smell heavenly. I highly recommend it. Hang upside down so the stems don’t droop or bend. After 2-4 weeks, check to see if the lavender is fully dried. You’ll be able to tell because the dried blooms will easily fall off the stem with very little resistance. Once the lavender has fully dried, you can shake or gently rub the lavender buds into a tray or bowl. To store it, place the dried buds in a lidded glass jar in a cool, dark place and repeat next year. Lavender buds dry into a muted purple colour. Which Kind of Lavender is Best for Harvesting? Harvesting lavender is a great way to tidy up unruly plants and will give you a whole bunch of inspiration for projects throughout the year. There is a proper way and ideal time to cut lavender flowers that is best for both the dried flowers and the plants. That being said, the best way to get a good harvest starts with planting the right kind of lavender. English Vs. French Vs. Spanish Lavender Lavender is commonly grouped into English lavender, French lavender, or Spanish Lavender, but the common names can become quite confusing as they can refer to a number of different lavender varieties. The best way to differentiate them comes from separating Lavandula angustifolia and L. x intermedia, plants that have delicate flowers and long stems that soar above the woody evergreen plant, from Lavandula stoechas with its showy hat of butterfly-like bracts on a perennial shrub. English Lavender is the common name for L. angustifolia, and a hybrid of L. angustifolia is L. x intermedia, which I have seen called both English and French lavender. In any case, this guide is for harvesting L. angustifolia and L. x intermedia, which are the varieties most often cultivated for culinary, craft, and medicinal properties. That being said, these harvesting techniques can work for any kind of lavender. Read more about growing and propagating lavender in this article: The Essential Guide to Growing Lavender. English lavender is most commonly used for craft, edible, and medicinal purposes. The Best Varieties for Harvested Lavender The cultivar of your lavender will also determine fragrance, colour, and longevity of the dried stems as well. ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’ English lavender varieties are noted by many to be the best for drying (L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ and  L. angustifolia ‘Munstead’). When looking for dried lavender options, I really love ‘Thumbelina’ for producing a bounty of small, deep purple flowers that hold colour really well. I should also add that after visiting a ton of growers and farms, they all seem to have developed cultivars that work best for them. If you can, I highly recommend visiting a lavender farm, asking some questions, and buying your garden plants from them. They will certainly have some gems that will perform best in your garden. English lavender retains its colour and fragrance well. How to Use Dried Lavender In case you are wondering what to do with your bounty of fresh herbs, check out these DIY projects and recipes featuring this star of the garden. There is so much you can do with this lovely flower, from potpourri to culinary uses to creating salves and tinctures. There is truly something for everyone on this list. Lavender Recipes Lavender Crafts Lavender Skin Care More Tips for Growing Lavender A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

[shelyold]

There's no one-size-fits-all living room formula. You can't just choose a sofa, two chairs, and a coffee table and call it a day. The best living room layout is designed to fit your specific space and show off its best architectural features, whether it's a narrow townhouse with an original fireplace or a sprawling open-concept home with soaring windows. Beyond your square footage and floor plan, you have to think about how you plan to utilize the space. Are you someone who entertains frequently? Do you spend evenings in your living room cozied up with a good book? Do you have multiple children who are eager to run around? Each of these lifestyle considerations impacts the furniture you choose and how you arrange it. Ready for some living room layout inspiration? Here are stunning designer-approved living room layouts. Two Sectionals Kelly Taylor Interior Design In this space, two sectionals are used to create a cozier, more intentional living room layout. "We were dealing with a narrow space and wanted to maximize the seating without closing in the space. As a result, we ordered two sectionals that face each other and left a gap between them for ease of both moving around and to not create a feeling of being blocked in on either side," says Kelly Taylor, owner and designer at Kelly Taylor Interior Design. Two Sofas and Two Chairs White Cliff Studio Rather than limiting a space to one sofa, Bailey Todd, owner and principal designer of White Cliff Studio, used two sofas, two chairs, and a large ottoman to maximize seating in this living room. "Rather than matching everything, we used complementary styles, materials, and colors to create interest among all the upholstered furniture," says Todd. Sofa and Two Chairs With Additional Ottoman Seating DRE DESIGN / Deborah Jaffe A sofa and two chairs is the classic layout for a square-ish living room, but it often doesn't provide enough seating. The workaround is to add additional seating that still lets the space feel light and airy. "Incorporate an extra chair or bench on one end. This arrangement promotes great conversation, allows for easy movement, and ensures everyone has a clear view—whether it’s of the fireplace or an outdoor scene," says Dre Shapiro, principal interior designer at DRE DESIGN. Sofa, Two Chairs, and a Large Coffee Table Niche Interiors / Paul Dyer Use the staple layout of a sofa and two chairs in a living room where you want to keep the space feeling light and open. But add a large coffee table so everyone has access to a place to set their drink. "This layout works especially well in open-plan living spaces where you want to maintain ample pathways for walking in multiple directions," says Jennifer Jones, principal designer at Niche Interiors. Two Sofas Facing Each Other Niche Interiors / Paul Dyer When you have the space, two sofas facing each other is one of the most visually pleasing and relaxing living room layouts. People subconsciously love seeing spaces where there's symmetry. "Symmetry is a key consideration in traditional living rooms," says Jones. "Positioning two sofas opposite each other is a great way to break up a spacious formal living room into more intimate seating arrangements." Sectional and a Swivel Chair Niche Interiors / Brad Knipstein While a sectional provides ample seating, additional chairs are necessary to make it feel anchored and welcoming. "We love using sectional sofas to maximize seating while maintaining a feeling of openness in a living room," says Jones. "Try floating a swivel chair across from a sectional to create a cozy conversation area." Sofa, Two Chairs, and Large Bench Ali Milch Interiors / Julie Leffell Photography Adding a bench to a living room layout lets you add flexible additional seating without disrupting the visual lines of the room. It's the perfect relaxed open floor plan for entertaining. "We wanted to create a designated room perfect for pre-dinner cocktails and hosting," says Ali Milch, owner of Ali Milch Interiors. "Our goal was to design a space that felt very 'adult'—separate, yet complimentary to the more commonly used family room." Sofa as a Focal Point Deni + Dove Interiors Carving out multiple seating areas feels luxurious in a large living room, especially if you entertain often and want to create spots for conversation. But the sofa should always anchor the space. "For living rooms, I’d recommend having a couch facing your main focal point, placing two adjacent chairs to the side, and then having a smaller loveseat across your chairs," says Olma Fuentes, principal and founder at Deni + Dove Interiors. "This arrangement can seat a number of guests but can also work for smaller get-togethers." Curved Sofa and Chairs Urban Staging / Russ Ross Realtor The silhouette of the sofa can help define a living room layout, particularly if it uses the space wisely. "If you're trying to fill a large space, a curved couch can bring the corners of the room in a bit," says Amanda Wiss, founder of Urban Staging. "This gives room for more vignettes in the corners of the room and larger side pieces. Two armchairs balance the room well, as does a larger, lower coffee table." Fireplace as the Focal Point Simply Southern Cottage A sofa and two chairs allows a clear visual path to the fireplace, making it the focal point of your living room. "This living room fireplace takes a prominent role in the design of the space. The windows form an L around the living room, providing ample natural light," says Sara McDaniel, designer at Simply Southern Cottage. "I positioned two casual chairs facing a sofa to create an intimate conversational gathering place while giving each person a unique view of the outdoors." Two Perpendicular Sofas Prudence Home and Design LLC / Julie Leffell Photography If you have ample space, rather than a sectional, two sofas can be placed perpendicular to create the same seating arrangement but without the casual look of a sectional. Sofa Flanked By Two Chairs Carter Tippins Rather than placing two chairs across from a sofa, a sofa flanked by two chairs can create a living room arrangement that's perfect for conversation. This U-shaped layout makes it easy for the person on either end of the sofa to gab with the person sitting in the closest chair, and it even works in narrow living rooms. Four Chairs Gieves Anderson Skip the sofa entirely and choose four comfortable chairs instead. This creates a parlor atmosphere, where everyone has their own space to relax, but it's easy to converse with the person next to you or the entire group. A big coffee table in the middle adds to the comfortable aesthetic. This is perfect in a small living room. Source link

[shelyold]

Key Points Some weeds, such as violets, plantains, and goldenrod, help loosen soil, prevent erosion, and support beneficial insects.Clover and chicory naturally enrich the soil, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers.Weeds like dandelion, yarrow, and chickweed break up hard dirt, feed pollinators, and protect your soil year-round. Every gardener has a different idea of what constitutes a weed, but the simplest definition is that a weed is a plant growing in a place where you don't want it. The biggest downside of certain weeds is that they are often vigorous growers that edge out preferred plants, but this isn’t the case for all species.  Certain varieties of weeds work to enrich gardens by supporting beneficial insects, reducing soil compaction, acting as a living mulch in winter, preventing erosion, adding nitrogen to the soil, offering shade to plants, and more.  While this doesn’t mean you need to start letting weeds take over your landscape, consider allowing a border of beneficial weeds to grow around vegetable beds or in other areas of your garden where their presence may be useful. Ahead, we're sharing the weeds gardening experts say are actually great for your soil. Common Violet Credit: HaraldBiebel / Getty Images The common violet (Viola odorata) is a key source of early-season food for bees and other pollinators. However, it's considered a weed by some because of its resilience and ability to thrive in inhospitable areas. But violets contribute various benefits to your soil, says Tess Renusch, senior coordinator on the native plant habitat team at the National Wildlife Federation. Its fibrous roots help to loosen compacted soil, and its dense growth and robust root system help prevent soil erosion and runoff. Plus, its foliage helps shade the soil, keeping it cool and reducing evaporation. Zones: 4 to 9Size: 4 to 6 inches tall x 4 to 6 inches wideCare requirements: Partial shade; well-draining soil Goldenrod Credit: gl0ck / GETTY IMAGES Goldenrod (Solidago) is identifiable by its showy, bright yellow flowers that bloom in late summer and early fall, says Renusch. "Goldenrod is a crucial late-season nectar and pollen source for native bees, moths, migrating butterflies, and other beneficial insects when other blooms may be scarce," says Renusch. It's also a larval host plant for numerous species of butterflies and moths. This plant has a deep, fibrous, and extensive root system that anchors the soil, helping to prevent erosion, especially on slopes and disturbed ground. It creates channels that aerate the soil and enhance water infiltration, resulting in improved drainage and overall soil health, she says. The foliage and hardy stems provide shelter for small animals and insects during the winter. "As a perennial, goldenrod adds organic matter to the soil as its roots and foliage naturally decompose," says Renusch. Zones: 2 to 8Size: 4 to 5 feet tall x 4 to 5 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to dry, well-draining soil Clover Credit: Andyworks / GETTY IMAGES Clover (and its other legume cousins) improves soil through the beneficial bacteria in its roots that fix nitrogen. "These bacteria capture atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into a form usable by plants, essentially acting as natural soil amendments," says McCabe. "Allowing patches of these plants to thrive can reduce the need for synthetic nitrogen fertilizers, fostering a more eco-friendly weed control strategy and contributing to sustainable gardening." Some gardeners even let clover (Trifolium repens) take over their landscape in place of turf grass. Zones: 3 to 10Size: 4 to 6 inches tall x 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil Chicory Credit: Ailime / Getty Images Chicory (Cichorium intybus) has deep roots that allow it to reduce soil compaction while improving nutrient cycling, says Heather Stoven, horticulturalist at Oregon State University. "Chicory utilizes water and nutrients deep in the soil profile, which is often inaccessible to other plants," she says. As the chicory decomposes after its growing season, it releases those nutrients into upper soil levels, creating a richer, healthier soil for other plants. Zones: 3 to 8Size: 3 to 4 feet tall x 1 to 2 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil Dandelion Credit: Sergunt / Getty Images Though dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) may not be part of your vision of a flawless lawn, they can be surprisingly beneficial to your soil. "The flowers are a bright, sunny yellow and feed pollinators," says Stoven. The wind disperses dandelion seeds to various locations near and far, which is why these plants are considered weeds by many. Despite their negative reputation, dandelions can benefit your garden. "The roots of the dandelion are like carrots and help push air into the soil," says gardening expert Adrienne Roethling, adding that this creates a healthier environment for the roots of surrounding plants. Plus, every part of the dandelion is edible and nutrient-rich. Zones: 2 to 11Size: 2 to 6 inches tall x 24 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil Yarrow Credit: Getty Images Yarrow (Achillea), native to every state in the country except Hawaii, decreases soil erosion and runoff, says Stoven. "Due to its creeping underground stems and ability to grow via new seedlings, this plant can be considered a weed," she says. "But it has deep roots which can also break up compacted soils and add to nutrient cycling. In addition, the small flowers are excellent as nectar and pollen sources for beneficial insects." Zones: 3 to 9 Size: 1 to 4 feet tall x 2 to 4 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-draining soil Chickweed Credit: Getty Images Recognizable by its small, white, star-shaped flowers, chickweed (Stellaria media) is a cool-weather annual that blooms in various conditions, including moist or dry soil, sunny or shady spots, and most United States climates, says Roethling. "Though this plant is edible, has health benefits, and attracts pollinators, it can be a nuisance in the winter landscape," she says. However, chickweed's roots combat soil erosion and add nutrients to the soil, says Roethling. The plant can also work as "a living mulch, suppressing less desirable weeds while keeping the soil cool and moist," says McCabe. Zones: 4 to 11Size: 4 to 20 inches tall x 4 to 20 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil American Plantain Credit: NancyAyumi / Getty Images Low, leafy American plantain (Plantago rugelii) grows a rosette of egg-shaped leaves, blooming with greenish-white flowers in summer and fall. "Its most distinctive feature is a reddish or purplish tinge at the base of the leaf stalk that extends up the stalk," says Renusch. The plant’s fibrous root system works against erosion, while a short and stout taproot loosens compacted dirt, says Renusch. "American plantain thrives in challenging areas and creates conditions where other plants can thrive as well," she says. "Root channels created by plantain help water drain more efficiently through the soil, creating conditions that allow other plants and beneficial soil microbes to thrive and access nutrients more effectively." Zones: 3 to 8Size: 4 to 8 inches tall x 2 inches wideCare requirements: Full to partial sun; fertile, loamy soil Source link

[shelyold]

Watermelon Frosé – Frozen Watermelon and Rosé Wine combine with lime juice for a fabulous summer cocktail! I’m not one of those bloggers with a calendar that I use to determine what to post about next; you know, making sure I’m on target with the latest trend or projected fad… this Watermelon Frosé Cocktail is proof of that! Blogging is much simper for me. I decide to make something and if we love it, it will show up here within a week or two. Oh come on, who am I kidding…way too often I’ve just made it a day or two prior to posting; I only wish I was that organized…but I promise, soon I may even be back with cocktails on Friday! Want to save this recipe? Enter your email & I’ll send it to your inbox. Plus, get great new recipes from me every week! I’ve created more than one dish that was simply the providence of having items with close proximity in the fridge…and that’s pretty much how this Watermelon Frosé Cocktail came together for today. I had ordered a bottle of VieVité Rosé wine and opened the package in the kitchen after it arrived yesterday. While I’ve always loved wine I don’t do wine reviews per se as I consider this to be a recipe site so I knew that I would be blending some seasonal concoction together with the wine as an ingredient. I sat it down next to a watermelon I had just purchased at Sprouts and well…there it was, right before my eyes. Almost too easy, right? That’s my excuse for being a year behind the Frosé trend…the stars had not yet aligned for me but when they did…this perfectly perfect Watermelon Frosé Cocktail for summer! Do you remember when Rosé wine was more synonymous with a cheap bottle of wine that we drank in our twenties…you know when the excitement of ordering an adult beverage was huge but our tastes were limited? Those cheap bottles were sweeter and come on…it was pretty too! Wow have things changed. I still love Rosé but today I prefer something with more character and depth and gone are the days of drinking any wine that is sweet; except maybe Port. Not to say that I won’t use a wine in a sweet cocktail like this Watermelon Frosé but it’s the dryness that works so well with fruits and simple syrups to keep it from going over the top. The VieVité exudes the colors of a true French Côtes de Provence rosé wine with a beautiful translucent pink hue. The nose of ripe tropical fruit is balanced with a pleasant bouquet of white flowers and a discreet touch of spice and I knew it would bring the perfect element to this cocktail. While this Watermelon Frosé Cocktail calls for making a batch that uses a full bottle of wine, I made a point of tasting the VieVité chilled first and it was exceptional. If serving with food, it is best with grilled white fish, salmon, crab cakes with aioli sauce, prawns, lobster, ceviche, sushi and even a spicy seafood stew. With VieVité’s fruit forward flavors, it will also balance out and complement dishes like tandoori Thai chicken, Indian curry dishes, and ethnic foods with spicy seasoning.  Considering my love of all things Italian, I see serving it with Mediterranean cuisines with olive oil, garlic and herbs like pasta tossed in fresh puttanesca sauce or traditional bouillabaisse. My job now it to locate a source in Denver; this is a beautiful wine. Balancing it with the watermelon, lime juice and simple syrup means using a light hand with the watermelon simple syrup. Taste as you go and make sure you don’t overpower the wine element with too much sugar. Looking for something a bit stronger? Try adding a bit of vodka. If making this Watermelon Frosé Cocktail as I did, it makes a full pitcher and that’s what I wanted. I was having friends over to celebrate the end of the deck building! You can certainly cut it down or save the leftovers in the freezer; a bit of time on the counter and it will soften quickly for enjoying again. I know I’ve mentioned (probably over and over) the yard projects I’ve had going on this year so I thought I would include some photos of what’s been accomplished this year. After a full three year ‘discussion’ with my builder they finally acquiesced and replaced all of my sod. I happened to arrive home on the day it was being installed in 2014 and the contractor had tried to pull a fast one and not bother prepping the clay the sod was being installed on top of…and I’ve had nonstop problems. The yard was a minefield of both lumps and divots that were dangerous to navigate once the grass got long enough to disguise them and when watering, the water ran off the clay onto my sidewalk instead of being absorbed. Yes, I was tenacious but they had to finally agree I had a mess and it got done. At the same exact time my new deck was scheduled to start! We had to postpone the deck for a bit because my yard was all dirt for almost 2 weeks; the time between sod removal and placing of new product was a bit longer than expected but I didn’t want anyone working in mud. Once it was completed, it was June and hotter than the optimum temperature for new grass so I’ve been consumed with both regular yard work and a killer water schedule. Truth be told it’s been a bit of a struggle but it’s amazing how a couple of days of cooler temperatures this past week and regular afternoon rains have FINALLY seen it start to take hold and look nice. Look it’s GREEN…Whew!! Still, the most exciting thing was the deck. I’ve waited two years for this baby. My neighbor has built several decks over the past couple of years and while not a full time deck builder I trusted him to do mine. He had done the neighbor’s next door in 2015 and was scheduled to do mine last spring/summer but he went through a difficult medical procedure and didn’t have full use of his hand so we had to postpone until this year. FINALLY…I needed it so bad! The foundation for my home was already poured when I bought it and a small back porch was included. I mean SMALL. It was 12 feet wide by 10 feet deep and that was bad enough but the builder made it even worse. The concrete patio was poured with a 3X3′ step that you walked out on before stepping down to the actual patio making it effectively 12 feet wide by  7′ deep. I know I must have tried my table and chairs in every configuration possible and the fact is they barely fit. Every single time someone came to visit and we went out there I felt I was on duty to make sure no one tripped on that dumb pad. I had my 20 year old white outdoor table and chairs from Crate and Barrel sandblasted and painted with a neutral gray for the covered porch area and I had an epiphany one day and remembered a patio privacy fence my dad had made in one of the homes we lived in and before we were done I had one too. Houses are close in this neighborhood (too close) and I like a more intimate setting when I have friends over and that wall does the trick. It shields the area from the sun, blocks a lot of kid noise and even keeps the rain out. I LOVE it! So we covered the entire thing and then expanded it too. Now 22′ wide and 12′ deep it’s a REAL deck and roomy enough that I’ve yet to trip over a kid or a dog. No more rock and more rock either…that alone is priceless! This area with furniture is all new, covering a bunch of rock I hated. One thing about a delay? I got a killer deal on some furniture and accessories from Pottery Barn for the new area. Waiting until end of season sales was so worth it! Having enough room to have flowers and all of my herbs right outside my kitchen is also a dream come true. The railing was inspired by a deck I had seen in the neighborhood. I visited with the owner and he was so gracious about sharing what he had done and it turned out perfectly. His was more metal; I made mine a combination of wood and metal. It has a clean look with a lot of openness and I love seeing my flowers and gardens that are out in the actual yard too! I spend a lot of time out here now. Every meal certainly but I can also do some social media work on my tablet, visit with the neighbor kids and of course, sip drinks like this Watermelon Frosé Cocktail I made with friends…won’t you join me? Cheers! Love Watermelon too? Here’s More! PIN IT! ‘Watermelon Frosé Cocktail’ Fresh Watermelon Frosé Cocktail Barb  Frozen watermelon is combined with rosé wine for a light and refreshing summer beverage. 4.58 from 50 or more votes Prep Time 10 minutes minsCook Time 5 minutes minsTotal Time 15 minutes mins Course Cocktails, WineCuisine American Servings 6Calories 220 kcal To Prepare the Watermelon and Wine6 cups watermelon cubes frozen1 bottle rose wine chilled Watermelon Syrup1 cup watermelon blended into puree½ cup sugar Freeze a bottle of Rosé wine for 45 minutes to get it thoroughly chilled. DON’T forget it!Cut a small watermelon in half and cut into cubes and measure out 6 cups of cubes. Place the cubes on a tray and freeze them for at least an hour.Meanwhile make the watermelon syrup by combining the watermelon puree and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer only until the sugar has dissolved. Pour into a container and refrigerate until cold.When ready to serve, combine the wine, frozen watermelon, half of the watermelon syrup and the lime juice. Blend until slushy. Taste and add more syrup as necessary for sweetness.Pour into chilled wine glasses and garnish with a watermelon slice. You might need to add some ice cubes to make the cocktail slushy…just add a cup at a time until you get the right consistency. Nutrition FactsFresh Watermelon Frosé CocktailAmount per Serving% Daily Value** Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet. Keyword cocktails, frose, lime, rose wine, watermelon, wine   Source link

[shelyold]

Columbine is a perennial flowering plant that comes back year after year. Typically, it starts to bloom in spring until early summer depending on the climate. Its unique spurred flowers and airy foliage bring soft color and charm to borders, wildflower meadows, and cottage gardens. Apart from adding elegance and movement to garden spaces, columbine flowers attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, boosting pollinator activity. You can grow columbine from seeds or propagate it through division. It thrives in well-drained soil with partial shade to full sun and prefers cooler growing conditions. Once established, it becomes a hardy, low-maintenance perennial that requires minimal care, making it an excellent choice for both beginner and experienced gardeners. Reaching 1 to 3 feet in height and spreading up to 18 inches, columbine plant fits well in rock gardens, borders, or informal garden settings. It’s hardy in zones 3 to 9 and often self-seeds. Regular deadheading helps control its spread and supports continuous blooming through spring and early summer. Later in this article you’ll understand more about growing needs of this plant. Know Your Plant – Columbine Commonly known as Columbine, Aquilegia) is native to North America, Europe, and parts of Asia. It’s easy to grow and can self-seed, making it great for wild gardens and cultivated landscapes. Though it can tolerate full sun in milder regions, the flowering thrives in cool climates with partial shade. Columbine prefers well-drained, moderately fertile soil and benefits from regular watering, especially during dry spells. This perennial flowering plant blooms from late spring to early summer, depending on the climatic conditions in your region. Gardening experts recommend to remove spent flowers regularly to encourage continuous blooming, promote healthy growth and reduce self-seeding. In late summer or early fall, cut back the foliage if it becomes untidy. Dividing mature plants every few years in early spring also helps rejuvenate growth and maintain plant vigor. Also Read: How to Dry Fresh Lavender From Your Garden? Best Columbine Variety to Grow Choosing the right columbine variety ensures healthy growth, extended blooming, and visual appeal suited to your garden’s conditions. Some types are compact for containers, while others thrive in naturalized or shaded spaces. Here are five excellent varieties: Aquilegia canadensis – Native red and yellow blooms attract hummingbirds; prefers moist, well-drained soil and partial shade to sun. Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nora Barlow’ – Double pink-green spurless flowers, great for cottage gardens; grows 24–30 inches tall in partial shade. Aquilegia caerulea – Colorado’s state flower with large blue-white spurred blooms; thrives in cool climates, sun to part shade, and acidic soil. Aquilegia ‘Black Barlow’ – Deep blackish double flowers; ideal for borders and shade, grows up to 30 inches in moist soil. Aquilegia chrysantha – Long-spurred yellow flowers; sun-tolerant and drought-resistant, perfect for rocky or xeric landscapes. When and Where to Plant Columbine? Plant columbine in early spring or fall. For seeds, sow outdoors in fall or start indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost. Transplants and divisions also do well during these cooler seasons. Choose a site with partial shade, especially in warmer areas, or full sun in cooler climates. Use well-drained, moderately fertile soil, and avoid soggy spots. Adding compost improves soil quality and helps young plants establish quickly for healthy growth and beautiful spring blooms. How to Grow Columbine from Seeds? While division method of propagating columbine is quick method to grow mature parent identical plants, growing from seed gives you more flexibility and a wider range of color options, though it requires patience. 1. When to Sow Seeds Columbine seeds can be sown in two main periods—early spring or fall. Fall sowing is often the most natural and effective method, as seeds experience winter temperatures that help trigger germination in spring. If you’re starting seeds indoors, aim for 6 to 8 weeks before your area’s last frost date. This gives seedlings time to grow strong enough for transplanting when the weather warms. 2. Cold Stratification (If Starting Indoors) Columbine seeds require a cold stratification period to break their dormancy. This mimics the conditions they would naturally experience over winter. To stratify, mix the seeds with a bit of damp sand or vermiculite, place them in a sealed plastic bag, and store them in the refrigerator (not freezer) for 3 to 4 weeks. Label the bag to keep track of the time. Once stratification is complete, the seeds will be ready for sowing indoors. 3. Sowing the Seeds Use seed trays or small pots filled with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Lightly press the columbine seeds onto the surface without covering them with soil, as they need light to germinate. Mist the surface gently with water to ensure good contact between the seeds and the soil. Place the containers in a bright spot, such as a windowsill or under grow lights, but avoid direct intense sunlight which can dry out the surface. 4. Germination and Seedling Care With ideal temperatures around 65–70°F, columbine seeds typically germinate in 2 to 4 weeks. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Once the seedlings emerge, continue providing bright, indirect light. When seedlings develop their first true leaves (the second set of leaves after sprouting), they can be thinned out or carefully transplanted into larger containers if needed. 5. Transplanting Outdoors Once the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall and the outdoor temperatures are stable (after the last frost), it’s time to harden them off. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days—starting with a few hours in shade and slowly increasing their time and light exposure. After hardening off, transplant them into the garden, spacing each plant about 12 to 18 inches apart to allow room for mature growth. Check this: How to Grow Celosia – Ultimate Planting Guide 6. Choosing the Right Site Select a location with partial shade, especially in warmer climates, though columbine can tolerate full sun in cooler regions. The soil should be well-drained and moderately fertile. You can mix in compost or aged organic matter to improve soil structure and provide nutrients. Avoid overly wet areas, as soggy soil can lead to root rot and other issues. 7. Watering and Maintenance Water newly planted columbine regularly to help roots establish, but avoid waterlogging the soil. Once mature, columbine is quite drought-tolerant and only needs occasional watering. To encourage continued blooming, deadhead spent flowers throughout the season. This also prevents unwanted self-seeding if you want to maintain color purity or avoid overcrowding. 8. Long-Term Growth and Self-Seeding Columbine plants will often reseed themselves in the garden, leading to new plants each year. These seedlings may not always match the parent plant in color or form, especially if multiple varieties are grown together, but this natural variation adds charm to informal gardens. If preferred, allow some flowers to go to seed and gently scatter them where you want new plants to grow. Also Read: How to Propagate Zinnias? How to Grow Columbine from Division Method? Dividing columbine is a reliable and efficient way to propagate mature plants, especially when you want to maintain specific traits like flower color, form, or growth habit. Unlike growing from seeds, which may produce variable results due to cross-pollination, division ensures the new plants are true clones of the parent. It’s also an effective way to rejuvenate aging plants and improve overall garden health. 1. When to Divide Columbine Columbine is best divided during early spring, just as new shoots begin to emerge from the base, or in early fall, after the plant has finished blooming and before the first frost. These cooler seasons reduce transplant shock and give the roots time to settle before the extreme heat of summer or the deep cold of winter. Avoid dividing the plant during peak bloom or during hot, dry weather, as this increases stress and may delay recovery. 2. Preparing the Plant for Division Start by selecting a healthy, established columbine plant that’s been in the ground for at least 2 to 3 years. The root system needs to be mature enough to survive the stress of division and transplantation. Water the plant deeply a day before dividing to soften the soil and make digging easier. This also ensures the roots are well-hydrated before being disturbed. Have a sharp spade, garden fork, and clean pruners ready for the process. 3. Lifting and Separating the Clumps Gently dig around the base of the plant, keeping a good distance to avoid cutting into the root ball. Lift the entire clump out of the soil and remove excess dirt by shaking or rinsing the roots with water. Examine the root system for natural divisions—clusters of shoots or crowns with their own root mass. Using a clean, sharp knife or garden pruners, cut the clump into smaller sections. Each division should have at least one healthy shoot and a good portion of roots to ensure successful replanting. Tip: Avoid overly small or damaged sections, as they may not survive the replanting process. Also Read: How to Grow Blanket Flower? 4. Replanting the Divisions Plant the divisions as soon as possible to prevent the roots from drying out. Choose a site with well-draining soil and partial shade to full sun, depending on your region. Enrich the soil with compost or organic matter before planting to help roots establish quickly. Dig a hole just deep enough to accommodate the roots, keeping the crown (where the roots meet the stems) at ground level. Space each plant 12 to 18 inches apart to allow airflow and mature growth. Gently firm the soil around the base and water thoroughly to settle the roots. 5. Caring for New Divisions After planting, water the divisions consistently for the first few weeks, keeping the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Mulch around the base with organic material like shredded bark or compost to retain moisture and reduce weed competition. Hold off on fertilizing until new growth is visible, usually within a few weeks. Once the plant is established, a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring can promote vigorous blooming. Regularly remove spent blooms to encourage prolonged flowering and prevent unnecessary seed production. With proper care, divided columbine plants usually re-establish quickly and may even produce flowers the following season. Also Read: How to Plant Daylily Bulbs? How to Care for Columbine? Winter Care: Cut back dead foliage in late fall. Columbine is hardy and generally requires no winter protection. Watering: Water regularly during dry spells, especially in the first growing season. Once established, columbine is fairly drought-tolerant. Soil Maintenance: Ensure soil is well-drained and moderately fertile. Add compost annually to enrich the soil. Light Conditions: Provide partial shade in warm climates and full sun in cooler areas for best flowering. Deadheading: Remove spent flowers to prolong blooming and prevent excessive self-seeding unless you want natural reseeding. Mulching: Apply a thin layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Fertilizing: Feed lightly with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring if the soil is poor. Dividing Plants: Divide clumps every 3–4 years in spring or fall to rejuvenate growth and manage overcrowding. Pest and Disease Control: Watch for leaf miners and powdery mildew. Remove affected leaves and use insecticidal soap if needed. Conclusion Columbine is a versatile and easy-to-grow perennial that adds charm, color, and movement to spring and early summer gardens. Whether you choose to start it from seeds for variety or propagate through division for faster, consistent results, this plant adapts well to most garden conditions with minimal care. By providing well-drained soil, partial shade, and regular moisture, you’ll enjoy its delicate, spurred blooms and pollinator-friendly nature year after year. With a little planning and attention, columbine can become a reliable and beautiful staple in your perennial garden. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[shelyold]

Happy Monday GPODers! It’s always a pleasure to be reintroduced to a garden we haven’t seen in a while. Syd Carpenter has shared her Philadelphia garden many times in the past, but we haven’t gotten an update since 2020 (You can check out some of her previous submissions here: Last Summer in Syd Carpenter’s Garden, Returning to a Sculptor’s Garden, Inspired Plant Combinations, A Rich Palette of Leaves, and more). She did share the incredible hugel garden she created for the Woodmere Art Museum in 2022 (A Hugel Garden), but today we finally get an update on the magic she has been creating in her home garden. If you want to bring a touch of the tropics to your garden, the Chinese ground orchid (Bletilla striata, Zones 5–9) is just the ticket. In Syd’s garden, with lots of shade and some bold foliage plants, it’s a wonderful compliment to the tapestry of bright green foliage. Syd mixes and matches a wonderful range of colors in her beds, and isn’t afraid to get a little dark and moody with her plant choices. These daylilies are so dark they’re nearly black in some spots, but still provide a pop of brightness with their yellow centers. Foliage is also utilized expertly for color and form. The dark, round leaves of leopard plant (Ligularia dentata, Zones 3–8) an excellent contrast to the bright white foliage of spotted deadnettle (Lamium maculatum , Zones 3–8). Another shady bed with fabulous contrast. I love that the chartreuse is picking up little slices of sun coming through the dappled shade. Syd utilizes every possible inch of planting space to inject more interest and greenery. Her beds are densely planted, even in the deep shade, and creeping plants fill all the cracks and crevices. Most of the color palettes we’ve seen in Syd’s beds and borders have been deeper, darker, and a little more subdued, but there are areas that are a little more bright and bold. This pathway leading to her home glows with bright pink, purple, and chartreuse. Another fantastic dark and light pairing from Syd is a bright white salvia, potentially ‘Vatican White’ clary sage (Salvia sclarea ‘Vatican White’, Zones 4–9), and the dark foliage of pineapple lily (Eucomis ‘Oakhurst’, Zones 5–10) before it goes into bloom. Along with being a talented gardener, Syd is an accomplished sculptor and ceramics artist (You can check out some of her incredible work on her website) who made many of the amazing pots and eye-catching garden art found in her landscape. While this gorgeous bed of bold and colorful foliage plants is sensational on its own, her eye for artwork brings another level of personality to her designs. That personality is exemplified in this outstanding piece of functional garden art. A bare concrete wall becomes a canvas from which this faux-espalier grows and creates a one-of-a-kind design. Purple hearts (Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’, Zones 8–11 or as an annual) are always a great container plant, but this level of creativity and artistic ability cannot be replicated. Thank you so much for this fabulous update on your garden, Syd! Your artistic eye is always evident in the designs you create and photos you share, so it’s easy to find something new to be inspired by. The ever-hectic summer season is in full swing, and I need your help to keep Garden Photo of the Day sailing through the summer months with lots of gorgeous gardens to share. While you might expect summer to be the time of year when we get the most submissions at GPOD, vacations, trips to the beach, and oppressive heat that keeps our outdoors time to a minimum actually causes a small submission drought during the peak season. So next time you’re in your garden to do some quick deadheading and watering, take a few snaps of whatever is looking particularly good right now and share them with the blog. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products A.M. 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Rustic design plus enough space to plant makes this a perfect outdoor and garden planter. A great way to add beauty to your small garden oasis. Size: height: 10.2 inches; bottom diameter: 4.0 inches; opening diameter: 7.87 inches. Makes a great garden gift. Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs. Source link