shelyold

[shelyold]

Happy Friday, GPODers! It seems that a lot of you are having a banner spring this year. From flushes of fabulous flowers to big and bright new foliage growth, and even some early-season edibles, we’ve seen just about everything a spring garden has to offer. We continue that theme with first-time contributor Susan Buckley in Idaho. Susan’s garden is at an elevation of 5,500 feet, so she deals with a pretty harsh winter, but that can make spring even more exciting and awe-worthy. A particularly impressive spring display this year is what encouraged her to finally send us some photos. Hello. I have enjoyed your magazine for years but have never submitted photos; however, this spring has been so beautiful I thought I’d send a few in. I garden in Zone 5b in Idaho. Our elevation is 5,500 feet. We have three months of snow and below-zero temperatures, then a slow thaw followed by a riotous spring. Summer brings intense sun, drought, and cool nights. Our house is in a wooded area not far from a river. We are surrounded by massive cottonwoods, quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides, Zones 1–6), chokecherry (Prunus virginiana, Zones 2–7), and native dogwood (Cornus florida, Zones 5–9). I’ve been building and tending these gardens for 15 years. It’s a real joy to marvel at the beauty nature has made and to add a few pockets of non-native horticultural bling. Elk and deer are frequent visitors, so I am careful about my plant choices. I have about 120 peonies (I can’t help myself), lots of daffodils, hellebores, bleeding heart, nepeta, monarda, salvia, spiraea, ornamental grasses, and dogwood. Lilies do well if I hit them with deer repellent once or twice. A few times a year we get a moose or two. They can eat whatever they want; I don’t mess with them. Here are a couple of recent photos. —Susan Buckley ‘Gold Heart’ (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’, Zones 3–9) and hellebores in my shade garden, my serene, low-maintenance garden ❤️ New this year is ‘Merry Mayshine’ peony (Paeonia × lactiflora ‘Merry Mayshine’, Zones 3–7). I love the almost fern-like leaves. A blooming Pink Champagne currant (Ribes rubrum ‘Champagne Pink’, Zones 3–7) plays well with a purple hellebore, the round blackish leaves of ‘Othello’ ligularia (Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’, Zones 3–8), and the red stems of Neon Burst™ dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Byboughen’, Zones 2–7), a wonderful shrub that brings color to the yard all year long. These are emerging leaves of a young ‘North Wind’ maple (Acer × pseudosieboldianum ‘IslNW’, Zones 4–7), a hybrid of a Japanese maple and a Korean species. Its leaves are bright red in the spring. The elk have made this barrier a necessity until the tree’s branches are out of reach. The tree is worth the wait. I love spiraea. They ask for nothing but sun and occasional water and throw pink, white, or red flowers against foliage in tones of green, blue, red, or gold. This bed is only a few years old and needed a pop of yellow. In the foreground is the ever-reliable ‘Goldflame’ (S. × bumalda ‘Goldflame’, Zones 4–9). To the middle left is Double Play Big Bang (S. japonica ‘Tracy’, Zones 3–9) and beyond, among the peonies, are a few Double Play Candy Corn (S. japonica ‘NCSX1’, Zones 4–8), tiny but bright. Thank you so much for sharing your delightful array of spring plants with us, Susan! This has been a wonderful introduction to your garden, but I sincerely hope that your first submission is not your last and we get to see even more from your garden this year. Now that Memorial Day has come and gone, we’re on the fast track to summer and the last blooms of spring will be faded before we know it. While you’re out enjoying your spring garden this weekend, be sure to take some photos to capture this fleeting beauty, and consider sharing them with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, Revised and Updated Second Edition: A Natural Approach to Pest Control Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. This revised and updated edition of Jessica Walliser’s award-winning Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden offers a valuable and science-backed plan for bringing balance back to the garden. With this indispensable gardening reference—now updated with new research, insights, and voices—learn how to create a healthy, balanced, and diverse garden capable of supporting a hard-working crew of beneficial pest-eating insects and eliminate the need for synthetic chemical pesticides. X3 Stainless Steel Midi-Mod Fountain Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. 3 feet high, it’s a more compact version of the larger X3 Fountain -9.5" w by 9.5" d -Powdercoat over stainless steal The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. A crevice garden replicates the environmental conditions of mountain tops, deserts, coastlines, and other exposed or rocky places on earth. These striking garden features provide perfect conditions for the plants native to these far-off places, bringing the cultivation of these precious gems within everybody’s reach. Source link

[shelyold]

Flat-pack furniture gets a bad rap—it’s often considered flimsy, poorly-constructed, and cheap in a way that is visually (and actually) unappealing. Ikea, the leader in this field, has made strides towards improving the category’s reputation, but the vast popularity (and convenience) of furniture that can be built just as easily as it can be broken down has cleared the way for designers to experiment.  In recent years, we’ve been tracking the rise of smaller designers putting their own spin on this style. But the best way to see if something is worth it is to try it for yourself. So three Dwell staffers tested out products from three such brands—Studio Furnis, Unfnshed, and Lucca House—to see what all the fuss is about.  Studio Furnis Studio Furnis Yankel BookcaseThe YANKEL bookcase assembles quickly and efficiently, requiring no tools and just minutes of your time. Its slender design maximizes storage while taking up minimal space in any setting. H 80" x W 15" x L 10" It’s no secret that "I found it on Instagram" isn’t usually a compliment when it comes to your latest impulse purchase. So you’d be forgiven in thinking that since, as memory strikes, Studio Furnis’s items were brought to our attention from that very platform. When it comes to quality, however, their products are far from what you’d happen upon while idly scrolling.  They're designed intentionally for city living, where, according to their website, "apartment living often means constant change," but the furniture made to easily accommodate easy moves is often poorly made. The small, Brooklyn-based team was founded by Tomás Mor in 2023, who leads design and production. Studio Furnis, which has collaborated with Viso, makes it furniture out of Baltic birch wood, and they now offer a small array of bed frames, side tables and chairs—and produce very cool custom pieces as well—all of which is made to order, and designed to be flatpacked and put together without screws or any tools. Once we arranged the piece I’d be testing—the tall, slim, Scandinavian-meets-’70s-undulating-curves bookcase from the Nü collection—Mor offered to drop it off, since their workspace isn’t far from my home. Since this is solid wood, the box it came in was long and heavy, but maneuverable. I was hesitant to begin assembly without some assistance; what if I messed it up?  The unit came without a manual, so I relied on pausing the video on the website in my quest to put it together. After sliding the shelves into the slots of the two sides-slash-legs of the bookshelf, I realized I had put it together backwards, reversed everything, and was finished. This meant that my process from unpacking to completion took probably five minutes instead of the two and a half it would take someone paying attention. That’s literally it. The bookshelf is freestanding, the quality of the wood and the smooth finish extremely satisfying. There’s perhaps an expected roughness to furniture this simple, but when done successfully, it can have the level of detail that Studio Furnis has put into these pieces. The entire thing seemed almost too good to be true—exactly what you want from flatpack furniture. I have no plans to move anytime in the near future, but they now have me wondering if I need a new bed frame. —Kate Dries Unfnshed Unfnshed Side TableMeet the Unfnshed Side Table: Your blank canvas for comfort and style. No tools needed, just your imagination. Paint it, stain it, make it yours. Use it as a table, seat, or plant stand—the choice is yours! Top: 12" or 18" Diameter  Height: 18"  Weight limit: 200 lbs Despite living in an apartment that is already filled with furniture, an occupational hazard is the constant desire for more. Inundated as we are every day with beautiful objects, when a particular item does catch my attention—and holds it—then that’s something worth investigating. Unfnshd is one such company. Their wares held my attention over the course of a couple of nights’ worth of Instagram scrolling, and, thanks to the algorithm, after clicking on an ad for it just once, my feed was flooded. A corner of my living room desperately "needed" a side table—something petite and narrow but also nice to look at—and Unfnshed’s Side Table fit the bill.According to the website, Unfnhsed was founded by Abdel Ibrahim in 2023; after he realized an earlier prototype of their first product, made from laminated plywood, would be too expensive to produce, he pivoted. The result is a suite of very reasonably-priced furniture made from Baltic birch plywood that is, as the name suggests, unfinished—a beautiful canvas for creativity, if the wind moves you that way.My little stool arrived in one box and was dead easy to assemble. The stool came in just three parts—the top and then the bits that form the legs—and slotted together so fast that I was nervous that I did something wrong. And I’m not surprised to say that I did—like my colleague Kate, I had inadvertently put the legs on in a way that felt (and was) wrong. I corrected my error, deconstructed and reconstructed the stool a few times to make sure, and then did what I love to do to wooden furniture: painted it.To be clear: the stool did not need the paint, because the material itself is so high-quality, smooth to the touch, and beautiful in its own right. (If you do want to paint or stain your piece, the website offers some simple tutorials for inspiration.)However, I love a project and was briefly obsessed with the idea of an icy, prissy blue side table. So I took matters into my own hands and painted the stool’s top and just one of the legs, for a subtle moment of contrast. When it came time to reassemble the stool after the paint had dried, I realized my mistake. In my exuberance I painted the part of the legs that slot into the table, which made the pegs thicker than they were before. It was a bit of a struggle to put the stool back together and I did have to really put my back into it in order for the stool to be structurally sound. I did the best I could, cursing my impetuous nature, and put the stool in its place, where it now holds a fake plant.Despite the user error detailed above, I love my stool! The rest of Unfnshed’s offerings are alluring to me, too—I could always use a bookshelf or a bench or really, any surface upon which to pile things. For right now, though, I am at capacity for furniture—but there’s a rickety Ikea bookshelf in my apartment that’s fighting for its life. Once it succumbs, I have a vision and this time, I won’t make the same mistake. —Megan ReynoldsLucca House 4x2 ShelfA shelf or storage for any space. Similar to the 5x2, but with an extra shelf in the middle for even more options.  Laminated maple ply. Assembles in 1 minute. Exterior 47.5 x 23.5 x 11.5" Interior 10.5 x 15.5 x 12.5" / 16.5 x 15.5 x 12.5” The first thing I notice about the Lucca House 4x2 shelf when it arrives is that it’s light—important if you live in a fifth floor walk-up with crumbling stairs, as I do. The next thing I noticed is that even though it’s light, it’s sturdy. As I unpack it and slot it together, the maple plywood is more resilient than the cheaper particle-board stuff offered by other, larger brands. The pieces slide together tightly, so I have to take a hammer and tap the pieces together (with the protection of an improvised cardboard cushion), but everything holds up. The whole process is very fast, and there are no confusing directions or hex keys to figure out. There is no hardware at all, actually, but it’s still sturdy enough to handle everything I’ve loaded onto it.Visually it fits into my home as easily as it does physically. I’m not generally a light wood kind of person, but the little strips of color on the edges keep the shelf from going too Scandi-modern. I got the multicolor/Harlequin option, and the colors are muted enough to keep it from feeling childish. It feels distinct without screaming for attention, and I can see myself holding onto it for decades.All this supports the ideas behind Lucca House: that young-ish urbanites are moving every few years and need nice, affordable furniture that they can easily move with them. "We're trying to make it as simple and straightforward as possible," Lucca House’s founder, Lucca Zeray, tells me. The shelves are meant to be "idiot-proof" and fill a niche between the usual disposable furniture available elsewhere and the gallery-quality stuff that most 20- and 30-somethings can’t afford. Which is not to say that the brand is not sophisticated; Zeray worked previously at Matter, the collectible design gallery in New York, and cites Dutch flatpack furniture from the 1940s as inspiration. Zeray brings that design intelligence to Lucca, which makes everything in house at their shop in Pittsfield, Massachusetts. Though shelves are the company’s only offering now, he promises more soon, potentially a desk and other kinds of furniture that urban professionals have to tote with them from home to home. Zeray recognizes that there are a bunch of flat-pack design companies out there, but he embraces the company. "I do think a rising tide lifts all ships," he says. "More people making stuff more or less locally is a good thing. I think it will make consumers and make us designers a little bit sharper and more critical of what is being produced and being consumed." So far, Lucca stands up to scrutiny. —Jack Balderrama MorleyWe love the products we feature and hope you do, too. If you buy something through a link on the site, we may earn an affiliate commission.Related Reading: Source link

[shelyold]

Hi GPODers! We’re back in Boulder, Colorado (Zone 4/5) to see more of Bonnie Phipps Moninger’s gorgeous flower garden. In case you missed it yesterday, check out Part 1 here. Yesterday we saw the new flower garden full of spring blooms, today we get to see how the space looked in late summer. In 2006 we built a 19’ diameter walking circle in our north side yard (pictured below.) We built it about 3’ in front of three beautiful Buffalo junipers (Juniperus sabina ‘Buffalo’, Zones 3–7) that were there when we moved in. But the junipers kept growing and eventually grew into our walking circle. I kept cutting them back each year and eventually, they became an ugly jumper wall. So, in April 2020, Raul, the gardener I work with, dug them out along with a few other plants that were there. It was amazing how much space each juniper took up. I decided to redo the whole area into a flower bed since this is one of the few areas in our yard that gets a fair amount of sun, though not exactly full sun. My Garden Fairy amongst all the flowers including Kniphofia in the foreground and Annabelle hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, Zones 3–9) in the back sitting area. At the bottom of the rock are spring-blooming snowdrop anemones (Anemone sylvestris, Zones 2–9) that I planted this year. I hope they come back next spring. It’s hard to get plants to grow in that small 4” deep area in front of the rock. I’ve been trying, but they don’t last! The sitting area. Kniphofia (red hot pokers) in front with coneflowers in the back. On the right is a garden totem I made this spring in a ceramic class. That was SO fun! A closer look at the Magnus coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’, Zones 3–9) and blue globe thistles (Echinops bannaticus ‘Blue Glow’, Zones 3–8). They make a nice combination. I will add more thistles in that area this spring. Prima™ Ginger coneflower (Echinacea ‘TNECHPG’, Zones 4–9) grows only 16” high. I have Blue Fortune agastache (Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’, Zones 5–9) in the back of my garden and somehow its seeds got in the cracks of the tall rock in our walking circle and this plant grew there and comes back each year! So far, I’ve picked the best views of the Flower Garden but there are other areas that still need to be filled in or where plants just didn’t work. To give you another perception of the garden, the next pics are of areas that still need work – but, that’s the fun of it. The dwarf rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus, Zones 5–9) pictured here gets about 4 blooms a season even though it gets buds on it. It’s time to give it away. Plus the area behind it needs to be filled in too. The plant in front of it is a Mellow Yellow spirea (Spiraea thunbergii ‘Ogon’, Zones 4–8) and has great texture. I might try filling in that back area with a dark leaves plant like a dark ninebark and maybe tuck in an Annabelle hydrangea. I want to fill in this bare area in front of the red-hot pokers so by the time its grass-like foliage covers it, it won’t matter. I might try planting Triumph asters (Aster x alpellus ‘Triumph’, Zones 3–9) which bloom in early June and are different from other asters because their foliage makes a mat flat to the ground and the 8″ aster stems come up out of the foliage. (See pic below) Or, maybe I will plant spring-blooming geraniums or dianthus. Asters that bloom in the spring peaking out behind the lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis, Zones 3–8). I’m sorry I don’t have a photo of this aster’s foliage. It naturalizes too but very slowly. I love this plant. Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful garden project with us, Bonnie! The floral tapestry you have been able to weave is already so impressive, and I hope we get to see the future alterations and improvements you’ll make. Lastly, a friendly reminder that we’re in need of submissions here at Garden Photo of the Day. I know many of us are patiently waiting for spring to really emerge in our gardens, but in the meantime we can always admire photos from last spring. Check out the paragraph below for information on how to submit your garden, and I hope to see photos of your fabulous flowers soon!   Get your garden featured on GPOD! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here. Fine Gardening Recommended Products Johnny’s Selected Seeds Connecta® Cultivation Kit Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Choose the right tool head for the job and switch out quickly with a simple push-button release. Includes the Connecta receiver, Connecta Collinear 4 head, Connecta Collinear 7 head, Connecta Contour Wire 4 head, Connecta Contour Wire 6 head, a sustainably harvested oiled ashwood handle, and a stainless-steel carrying clip. SHOWA Atlas 370B Nitrile Palm Coating Gloves, Black, Medium (Pack of 12 Pairs) Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Lightweight and close-fitting for excellent dexterity. Machine washable. Breathable back of hand to reduce perspiration. Designed for easy movement and continuous wear. Ideal for aerospace, assembly, automotive, construction, final fix, gardening, manufacturing, operating machinery, packaging, precision handling, tiling, warehousing. ARS Telescoping Long Reach Pruner Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Telescopes from 4 to 7'. Cut and Hold (160) Blades. Drop forged blades for unsurpassed long lasting sharpness. Lightweight, 2.3 lbs., for continued use. Perfectly balanced for easy pruning. Source link

[shelyold]

Hi GPODers! At the end of last year we were introduced to Karen Safford’s stunning garden in Bend, Ore., (check that post out here: Karen’s Oregon Garden Through the Seasons). Karen’s gardens are relatively new—she moved to her property less than five years ago—but she has already thoughtfully and beautifully mixed many ornamentals and natives to accommodate the dry conditions and tough terrain of the high desert. Last time we got a great overview of her diverse plantings through the seasons; today we get to see some other areas in the garden in their spring glory. Hi! I submitted part of my garden through the seasons last year. I’m sending some photos of other areas of my garden as early spring flowers wind down here in the high desert of Oregon. All of my plants are low water and on a drip system. I have a mix of ornamentals and native plants. My intention is to water my ornamental beds twice a week and my native beds once every couple of weeks, dependent on how hot the summer ends up being. I’m trying to make as many pollinators and birds as happy as possible, so I’ve got a lot of natives mixed in. We are now technically Zone 6a, but everything I’ve learned is that because of our freeze-thaw cycle, which can last all summer long, we should really plant for much colder— Zone 4 or 5. As I mentioned last time, I live in the high desert and have a lot of lava rock in my yard. All of the rock in the pictures is from my yard—nothing was outsourced other than flagstone. This is one of my wetter beds. I have Jack Frost brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’, Zones 3–7), hosta, Johnson Blue geranium (Geranium ‘Johnson’s Blue’, Zones 4–8), lambs’ ear, and creeping Veronica cascading down the rocks. Wild flower tulips (Tulipa sylvestris, Zones 4–8) mixed in with my fern bush (Chamaebatiaria millefolium, Zones 4–9) and desert penstemon (Penstemon pseudospectabilis, Zones 5–9) Geum flower with dianthus Ice plant (Delosperma spp. and cvs., Zones 6–10), poet’s daffodil (Narcissus poeticus, Zones 3–8), Globemaster allium (Allium ‘Globemaster’, Zones 5–8), hollyhock, and creeping Veronica; globe thistle (Echinops spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8), and phenomenal lavender in the background Near our water feature (the fencing is to keep the dogs from tearing through the fountain and wiping out my plants): creeping thyme (Thymus spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), hopflower oregano (Origanum libanoticum, Zones 5–9), globe thistle (Echinops ritro, Zones 3–8), Golden Echo daffodil (Narcissus ‘Golden Echo’, Zones 5–8), blue fescue (Festuca glauca, Zones 4–9), and yellow ice plant This is the area I featured last year. Everything is filling in and looks lovely in the evening light. Down one of my garden paths—this divides my rock garden to the left with my native beds to the right, with my dog Winston on the path. Final photo—our water feature—this was made with rocks from our lot. There is a vacation rental behind our house, and the running water helps dampen any noise; it’s like having a giant white-noise machine. It often has birds or dogs taking baths in it. It is flanked by native penstemons, a native juniper plant, yarrow, lavender, serviceberry, gray creeping germander (Teucrium aroanium, Zones 5–10), Blonde Ambition blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis ‘Blonde Ambition’, Zones 4–9), Blue Boa agastache (Agastache ‘Blue Boa’, Zones 5–9), stonecrops, and ice plants. I’m hoping this is the year that this garden really takes off. Thank you so much for another fabulous tour of your garden, Karen! Your unique landscape presents plenty of challenges, but it also allows you to create a fascinating garden full of natural interest. We’ve seen an incredible mix of spring gardens so far this season, but there is always room for more. If you’ve been considering sharing some photos with the blog, here’s your sign to send them in. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Corona® Multi-Purpose Metal Mini Garden Shovel Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Longer Service Life: The blade of this round small shovel is made of carbon steel, which can effectively improve the hardness by high temperature quenching, and the surface has anti-rust coating to avoid rusting. In the process of use when encountering hard objects will not bend and deformation. Sturdy Structure: The small garden shovel with D-handle, ergonomically designed grip can increase the grip of the hand when using, the handle is made of strong fiberglass, will not bend and break under heavy pressure. Quick Digging: Well-made digging shovel has a sharp blade, and the round shovel head is designed to easily penetrate the soil and cut quickly while digging to enhance your work efficiency. A.M. Leonard Deluxe Soil Knife & Leather Sheath Combo Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. MULTITASKING DUAL EDGES: a deep serrated edge and a tapered slicing edge ideal for tough or delicate cuts. DURABLE 6-inch stainless steel blade withstands 300 lbs of pressure. TWINE CUTTING NOTCH, DEPTH GAUGE MARKINGS & spear point - no need to switch tools when using this garden knife. LEATHER SHEATH: heavy duty, protective, clip on sheath to keep your knife convenient and secure. LIFETIME WARRANTY. Spear & Jackson 4930FZ Razorsharp Telescopic Tree Pruner Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Telescopic tree pruner with SK5 carbon steel blade which stays sharper for longer. Variable length telescopic handle extends up to 92 Inch (2340mm). Lopper for cutting branches up to 1.2" (30mm). 13 inch (330mm) saw is ideal for cutting thicker branches. Supplied with a long cord and pull-action handle. Part of the Razorsharp Advantage collection, the obvious choice for gardeners who demand and expect precise, powerful performance. "Grow Your Own" Great British Growing 2020 Award Winners. Source link

[shelyold]

The best bar stools make the most of vertical space, whether arranged around a tall kitchen island (as tradition calls for) or dining table. And as open-plan kitchens have gained popularity over the past several decades, so too has the demand for stylish counter stools and barstools.The seating style has become a fundamental of casual dine-in kitchens, but deciding between a high-back style (à la this Hudson Valley home) versus a neatly tucked away backless one (like the one seen in this West Village kitchen) is just the beginning of your sourcing considerations. Lumbar support for those of us with a weak core can certainly dial up the comfort level, while footrests and contoured or cushioned seats are other nice-to-haves as well.From modern farmhouse to midcentury, a design-forward bar stool can add the right seating to polish off any ledge you aim to gather around. Below, an assortment of some of our favorite well-designed bar stools that will elevate your bottom and your dining setup in one.Our Top Picks for the Best Bar Stools:Article Esse Counter StoolThis counter stool in light oak from Article doesn’t go through the hoops of reinventing a classic—the slight frame and dependable base are going to be stylish and functional no matter what your design aesthetic is. While this is the type of stool that can camouflage itself in nearly any room, we think it looks best with a neutral palette à la Athena Calderone.Pierce and Ward’s collaboration with West Elm is an exercise in thoughtful maximalism, and these matching bar stools add lots of personality to any cocktail hour arrangements. Punctuated by stripes and slim, knobby legs, this whimsical seating looks like something Tim Burton would dream up for your next happy hour.Crate & Barrel Carolina Burl Wood Swivel Counter StoolArchitectural bar stools can help draw the eye into a space whether it leans maximalist or minimalist, and no one will miss this burl wood stool from Crate and Barrel. The movement of the natural material in its base contrasts the smoothness of its cushioned top, and the brass detailing adds a hint of fun sparkle. It’s the kind of seat that’s asking for an olive garnish.Rejuvenation Cobb Stool with BackA counter stool in a kitchen can be an ideal spot to finish homework, and these minimalist seats from Rejuvenation have that after-school aesthetic. Choose between teak, metal, walnut, or oak for the seat, and then blue, white, or black for the rest. When the work is done, these stools will get an A+ for looks on their own.Article Zina Outdoor Counter StoolWarmer weather calls for al fresco meals, and this indigo blue bar stool from Article can bring a distinctive hue to the rest of your outdoor palette. The woven seat is easy to sink into, while the back will keep you comfortable as you chat.Anthropologie Heritage Ash Wood Counter StoolThis midcentury-inspired wood counter stool from Anthropologie is ideal for kitchens and lounge areas that lean into Danish design. Available in classic walnut or moodier all-black palettes, these are the stools you pick when you want something that looks vintage.Castlery Edith Cane Bar StoolThis Castlery design is another supportive option we found to bring texture to your space. The bouclé seat and the sleek, all-black frame give the piece a modern look, while the airy, cane detailing adds a playful touch to what could be a more serious stool.GrandNoor Rattan Counter Stools (Set of 2)Brown and chrome are having a moment, and these Cesca-esque bar stools from Amazon capitalize on the trend by featuring both materials in a leggier build. The rattan backing adds a light touch, making these stools adaptable enough to work in a variety of designs—especially if you have a moodier kitchen or lounge.Serena & Lily Carter Counter StoolBar stools are a fun way to bring color into a bright and airy kitchen, and this slime-colored stool from Serena and Lily would fit the bill in any playful setting. The armless build makes for easy settling in, while the supportive back keeps you propped up no matter how frequently you do crunches.Pottery Barn Malibu Woven StoolThis woven Pottery Barn stool is a brand bestseller for a reason: It can go coastal, cottage core, or traditional, based on how the rest of the space is styled. Set the stool at counter or bar height depending on your needs, and the sturdy back will make it easier for kids and adults to sit and stay a while.Anthropologie Hagen Velvet Counter StoolWhen you’ve made the effort to install a bar in your basement, then you need furnishings that enhance those speakeasy vibes. This counter stool from Anthropologie is up for the challenge, since it features a warm green velvet that’ll make your space feel sophisticated and a bit mysterious. The curved back and arms are eye-catching details that would coordinate well with lemon and lime slices.For those who want to keep their stools as simple and classic as the rest of their kitchen or bar design, try this classic Herman Miller option from Design Within Reach. Its rounded base and seat are joined together by a steel beam with a brash finish, making it sturdy with a small footprint. Better yet? It won’t take up room if you need to bring it to the family or living area during a party.Harry Bertoia Bar Stools from Knoll (Set of 2)These Harry Bertoia stools spotted on 1stDibs are the type of seats that can be dressed up or down—or left alone to be adequately admired. The steel net frame can coordinate with a wide color palette, but we think these are the type of stools that aren’t afraid of a little color. If you have a color-drenched bar or kitchen, just imagine these beside a fruit bowl.West Elm Dunham Bar StoolA high-contrast bar stool like this woven-and-wood option from West Elm finishes off a counter with a detail that doesn’t need much else to look complete. Thanks to a sand-colored and woven back beside a leather seat, plus a shiny black frame, these are the stools you pick when you intend to keep your counters clear most of the time. They don’t deserve the competition.Serena & Lily Avalon Rattan Swivel Bar StoolIf curating an indoor-outdoor tiki bar is part of your summer agenda, then these rattan bar stools from Serena and Lily will stay on theme. The woven material is used throughout, and the best part is that the seat swivels. It’s perfect for a private spot that glows under string lights and gets just the right amount of breeze.This Muuto Nerd stool from Design Within Reach comes in a handful of colors, but we’d pick the one in dusty rose. Why? This shade complete with a slight back almost acts as a neutral. Place it in a more traditional setting for a pop of color, or surround it with patterned wallpaper, and this stool will hold its own. It’s versatile but still has a personality. Source link

[shelyold]

After the frenzy of springtime slows and the heat of summer sets in, we all desperately want to put our tools down, pick up a glass of something ice cold, and enjoy the gardens that we labor over. Unfortunately, a gardener’s job is never truly done and even when summer reaches its peak, there are some chores that just can’t wait until fall. While we can’t give up on our gardens during the hottest months of the year, there are many ways to make these jobs easier. One option for easing garden maintenance is opting for battery-powered tools whenever it’s appropriate. While power tools in general can save you hours compared to their humble hand tool counterparts, cordless tools take that ease to another level. Rather than rolling out extension cords or filling fuel tanks and replacing oil, you only need to give your batteries a good charge before tackling the next garden task. Additionally, these tools are generally more lightweight than gas-powered options, and will not fill your garden with the smell of fuel. To make your summer chores easier this year, check out the expert-recommended, battery-powered tools below.   Plant dozens of annuals in a snap with this drill and auger combo Tested by Marti Neely When planting en masse, I need more power than my favorite trowel or shovel can deliver. To zip through this task, I use my Milwaukee 18-volt cordless compact hammer drill and attach a 24-inch-long, 3-inch-wide auger bit from TCBWFY to it. With this stellar combo, I can plant a flat of 18 annuals in about 15 minutes, or 15 flats in 2½ hours. It’s even more efficient when I’m installing bulbs, as I can easily drill holes in the smallest of spaces and between plants. When using this drill and auger, you must drill deeper than you would dig with a trowel, as the loose soil will fall back as you pull the drill bit out. With compacted soil, you can also use a drill and auger to turn over and fluff the surface of the soil, preparing it for planting. The battery on this drill is powerful and long lasting, but I recommend that you have a second one as a backup in case you run out of power or decide to buy more plants. The drill can be purchased on its own or with two batteries and a charger. Milwaukee 18-volt cordless compact hammer drill Milwaukee 4-pole frameless motor: features a robust design combined with rare-earth magnets for longer life, best-in-class 500 in. lbs. of torque and 0-450/0-1,800 RPM Single sleeve ratcheting chuck: all-metal 1/2 in. chuck optimizes grip strength and reduces slippage Built-in LED light: illuminates surfaces for faster, more efficient work 525 in. lbs. of peak torque 0-450/0-1,800 RPM Price: $129.00 at the time of writing TCBWFY 3x24 Inch Auger Drill Bit for Planting Build to last: Made of heavy duty steel, with glossy black painted finish. The auger drill bit point on it hits the ground first and keeps it steady when you are digging hard grounds. Our patented design also makes the distance between the digging blade start and the point is the minimal, so auger drill bit will start working on hard ground without having to push down. Price: $24.99 at the time of writing A chainsaw for those who don’t like chainsaws Tested by Susan Calhoun I have been pruning for a long time and am always looking for ways to make it easier. That’s why I was happy to discover the Stihl GTA 26 garden pruner kit. For years I had used a cordless reciprocating saw to prune big branches and small trees. I needed two hands to use it, and I found that it was not very precise. This small chainsaw from Stihl has replaced my reciprocating saw. It’s battery operated; without a traditional pull start, and with no gas to run out of, it’s amazingly easy to use. The saw cuts sharply and quickly. You only need one hand to use it, so you can hold the branch with one hand while cutting with the other. Stihl GTA 26 Wood Cutter with AS 2 Battery and Charger AL 1, Battery Operated Package weight: 3.08 kilograms Package size: 18.4 L x 39.2 H x 20.0 W (cm) Colour: orange Price: $269.98 at the time of writing Whip out this battery string trimmer for quick, clean lines Tested by Robin Parsons While I use hand trimmers for areas that require more finesse, my EGO Power+ ST1511T 56-volt battery string trimmer lets me zip easily through larger-scale lawn cutting. Rotating the edger at 90º provides neat, crisp lines that clearly delineate my beds from lawn edges. It also works great against hardscape, such as driveways and paths, providing clean cuts and precise edges. This trimmer is easily rechargeable, with the charger included in the purchase. Although the version with the 2.5 Ah battery requires more frequent charging, the model with the 4.0 Ah battery lasts almost twice as long. Ergonomically designed with a comfortable handle, this lightweight tool is easy to manage. It’s also much quieter than gas string trimmers.  EGO Power+ ST1511T 56-volt battery string trimmer  POWERLOAD technology; load your line, push a button and go Get up to 45 minutes of run time on a single charge with the included 56V 2.5Ah ARC Lithium Battery Telescopic Aluminum Shaft quickly fits your height for ultimate comfort High-Efficiency Brushless Motor 15 in. Cutting Swath Professional-grade, dual line spiral-twist 0.095 in. line Variable speed with 2-Speed Settings Price: $199.00 at the time of writing   This lightweight trimmer is perfect for smaller tasks Tested by Stacie Crooks Scotts cordless grass-shear/shrub-trimmer combo is the best tool I have found in the last few years. With a built-in 7.2-volt lithium-ion battery, this little guy weighs less than 2 lb. (yes, really!) and can zip through all your minor pruning tasks quickly and easily. It puts less stress on my hands than using pruners. The tool comes with two blades: a 7-inch hedge blade and a 4-inch shear blade. While it’s not heavy-duty enough for larger shrubs or hedges, it’s perfect for small shrubs like heather (Calluna vulgaris, Zones 4–7) or subshrubs like lavender (Lavandula spp. and cvs., Zones 4–10). This trimmer can be used for many different tasks; I also use it to deadhead perennials and edge my lawn. I have found that the charge lasts for hours, allowing me to cover my whole garden in one go.  Scotts Outdoor Power Tools Cordless Grass Shear/Shrub Trimmer Combo Scotts battery-operated grass trimmer that uses a 7.2-Volt 2Ah high-capacity built-in lithium-ion battery; Includes a fast charger Cordless grass shear that includes a 6.7" hedge blade and 3.5" shear blade with tool-less blade change feature Hand trimmer with a pivoting and adjustable cutting head for effectively trimming hard-to-reach areas Lightweight and compact cordless grass shears with a comfortable cushioned handle Planet-friendly cordless weed trimmer with a 2-year manufacturer warranty Price: $54.49 at the time of writing These hedge shears work for a variety of chores  Tested by Jason Reeves Using battery-powered hedge shears is a game changer. I love my Black and Decker 24-inch cordless hedge trimmer. It’s quick and easy to put into operation and is less noisy and lighter in weight than gas-powered hedge trimmers. These shears aren’t just good for hedges and shrubs; I use mine to quickly remove the faded foliage of perennials before new growth starts. They work well on plants like hellebores (Helleborus spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), epimediums (Epimedium spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), and evergreen ferns. I have also found that they are perfect for cutting back ornamental grasses in spring. This tool comes with a 40-volt lithium-ion battery and charger.  BLACK+DECKER 40V MAX Hedge Trimmer, Cordless, 24-Inch Blade, Battery and Charger Included (LHT2436) Powerful 40V Lithium Ion battery of the cordless hedge trimmer delivers power and run-time to complete the toughest jobs. 24 inch dual-action blades of the battery powered hedge trimmer cut branches fast with less vibration. Trimmers for plants have extended reach blades with a 3/4 inch cut capacity trim more in less time. Up to 6000 sq ft of actual hedges trimmed per charge. Wrap-around front handle provides comfort and control in vertical and horizontal trimming application. Full length trigger with soft grip handle provides added comfort during use. State of charge indicator shows battery charge level. Maximum initial battery voltage (measured without a workload) is 40V. Nominal voltage is 36. Price: $155.14 at the time of writing Source link

[shelyold]

Hens can’t fly high and often gets huddle when threatened. This makes them easy target for predators. Thieves and predators are greatest fear of chicken farmers, as they can be cunning, fast and very sneaky. But, with right precautions you can keep your chickens safe from predators. It is one of the biggest disappointments, when you go to feed your flocks in the morning only to find few of them are missing, killed or mutilated. Most predatory incidents can be avoided if you remember few simple rules, which I’ll discuss later in this article. If you’re a beginner, then ensure that you plan to protect your chickens in three layers. One is hawk proof layer, second dog proof layer and then third if raccoon proof layer. (Source) How to Keep Chickens Safe from Predators? Not just day time predators, you must protect your flocks from night time predators like raccoons. There are cases where chicken farmers claim about stray dogs digging under the wired fence and attack the flocks. So, your chicken coop must strong enough to survive the attacks from these predators. To keep it simple let me list in three simple points. To protect from hawk, have a chicken net over the top. Also, grow some small bushes so that hawk and other predators can’t easily attack hens.Apart from this, most of the time hawk hunts in the morning, so you should be alter in the morning season. Build a welded wire around the chicken yard. This will surely keep your chickens safe from stray dogs. But, as mentioned, predators can dig under the fence.So, to avoid it, you can dig down around the fence and bury a scrap length of wired fence. Third are the night-time predators. For instance, raccoons can easily pass through the wired fence in anyway. Here comes the third strong layer of protection.Your chicken coop or house must be strong enough to protect them from such night predators. Note: Instead of digging down to bury scrap length wire, you can place rocks or hard wood to stop stray dogs. Are your chickens completely safe now? No, there might be other predators like chicken snakes that can get through the chicken coop or house and rob eggs or small chicks. Below mentioned is more comprehensive guide on protecting your chickens from predators. 19 Ways to Protect Your Chickens from Predators 1. Secure the Coop with Sturdy Construction A well-built coop is your chickens’ first line of defense against predators. It should be made from strong, durable materials that can’t be easily chewed through, clawed open, or knocked down. Thin chicken wire alone isn’t enough—raccoons, foxes, and even neighborhood dogs can rip through it. Instead, opt for hardware cloth with ¼-inch openings, firmly attached to a solid wooden frame. Make sure the coop has no weak spots or gaps where a predator could squeeze in. Pay special attention to corners, vents, doors, and windows. Use heavy-duty latches—avoid simple hook-and-eye closures, which raccoons can open with ease. 2. Bury Wire Around the Perimeter Predators like foxes, dogs, and even rats often try to dig under coops or runs to get to your flock. To stop them, dig a trench about 12 inches deep around the perimeter of your coop and run, and bury hardware cloth or welded wire in an L-shape. This buried wire mesh creates a physical barrier that prevents digging predators from getting through. Some people also pour a layer of concrete or heavy pavers along the base for extra protection. 3. Use a Predator-Proof Run Free-ranging birds are more vulnerable, so a secure run gives them space and safety. Make sure your chicken run is fully enclosed, including the top. Aerial predators like hawks and owls can swoop in if the run is open, and raccoons can climb over fencing with ease. Cover the top with hardware cloth, strong netting, or metal roofing. Reinforce the sides with heavy-duty wire, not flimsy chicken mesh, and anchor the fencing tightly to the ground to prevent digging. Also Read: 7 Ways to Break a Broody Chicken 4. Lock the Coop Every Night Most predator attacks happen at night when chickens are roosting and vulnerable. Develop a strict routine to lock your chickens safely inside the coop at dusk and open it in the morning. Use secure latches that require two steps to open, which helps keep out clever predators like raccoons. If your schedule makes manual locking difficult, consider installing an automatic coop door that closes at sunset. 5. Eliminate Hiding Spots Nearby Overgrown vegetation, brush piles, or stacks of lumber around your coop can offer hiding places for predators like weasels, snakes, and rats. Keeping the area clean and open makes it harder for predators to sneak up unnoticed. Mow tall grass, remove debris, and trim shrubs regularly. This also helps you spot signs of predator activity like tracks, droppings, or burrows before an attack happens. 6. Install Motion-Activated Lights Nighttime predators prefer to work under cover of darkness. Installing motion-activated lights near your coop and run can startle intruders and make them think twice before approaching. Position lights facing outward to catch movement from a distance, and place them at multiple angles. Some chicken keepers combine lights with sound deterrents for added effect. 7. Add Hardware Cloth to Windows and Vents Openings like vents and windows are often overlooked access points. While they’re important for ventilation, they also need to be reinforced. Cover all ventilation holes with securely stapled or screwed-on hardware cloth. Avoid using screens or chicken wire alone, as they’re too weak. Always double-check that there are no gaps where cloth ends meet or around the edges. 8. Collect Eggs Frequently Leaving eggs in the nesting boxes can attract egg-loving predators like snakes, rats, and opossums. The scent can also encourage repeat visits if predators associate your coop with an easy meal. Check the nesting boxes once or twice a day to collect eggs. This also gives you a regular opportunity to inspect your flock and their surroundings for signs of danger. Also Read: How to Keep Chickens Cool in Hot Weather? 9. Don’t Leave Food Out Overnight Chicken feed left out overnight can attract unwanted visitors like raccoons, rodents, and even bears, depending on your location. These animals may initially come for the food but return for your birds. Put away feeders at dusk or use a treadle feeder that only opens when a chicken steps on it. Store extra feed in metal containers with tight-fitting lids to keep the smell contained and rodents out. 10. Use Guard Animals Certain animals like dogs, geese, and even donkeys can help deter predators. Livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) are especially trained to protect flocks and deter threats by barking, patrolling, and confronting intruders. Even a flock of alert geese can raise an alarm loud enough to scare off many predators. Introduce guard animals carefully, and ensure they’re safe around chickens before leaving them unattended. 11. Set Up a Perimeter Fence A secondary fence around your coop and run adds another layer of protection. Tall fencing helps keep out larger animals like coyotes and dogs, and electric fencing can stop even the most determined diggers and climbers. Fencing should be at least 6 feet tall and buried underground if possible. Choose a tight weave or smaller gaps to prevent smaller predators from slipping through. 12. Use Motion-Activated Sprinklers For a non-lethal, eco-friendly deterrent, try motion-activated sprinklers. These tools shoot a quick blast of water when movement is detected and can surprise predators enough to make them retreat. They work especially well against ground predators like cats, dogs, and raccoons. Move the sprinklers periodically to cover different angles and keep predators guessing. 13. Install Trail Cameras Monitoring your coop area with trail or wildlife cameras can help you identify what kinds of predators are visiting, and when. This information is vital to tailoring your defenses. Once you know whether you’re dealing with raccoons, foxes, owls, or weasels, you can take targeted steps to deter them. Trail cams are especially useful in rural areas where multiple types of predators are common. 14. Elevate the Coop Raising your chicken coop off the ground can help deter burrowing predators and snakes. An elevated coop also provides good drainage and helps keep the floor dry. Build the coop 1–2 feet off the ground and block off the space underneath so it doesn’t become a hiding place. A skirt of hardware cloth can help prevent access if the space below is open. 15. Keep the Flock Inside During High-Risk Hours Dawn and dusk are peak hours for predators. During these times, it’s best to keep your flock inside a secure coop or run. If your chickens are used to free-ranging, consider giving them access only during the middle part of the day when predator activity is lower. Training your flock to come when called makes it easier to get them inside quickly if danger is near. 16. Inspect for Holes and Damage Weekly Regular maintenance is key to keeping predators out. Check the coop, run, fencing, and surrounding area at least once a week for signs of damage or entry attempts. Look for chew marks, claw scratches, loose boards, or burrows. Seal up any gaps right away—predators are persistent and will keep testing for weak spots. Check this: Why Have My Chickens Stopped Laying Eggs in Summer? 17. Avoid Attracting Wild Birds Wild birds can introduce mites, diseases, and predators into your coop. They may also be a food source that attracts hawks or owls who may later go after your flock. Don’t feed wild birds near your chickens, and avoid hanging bird feeders near the coop. Secure your chicken feed to prevent spillage that might attract other birds or scavengers. 18. Use Decoy Predators with Caution Fake owls, scarecrows, and predator decoys can be somewhat effective—if used correctly. They work best when moved regularly and used in combination with other deterrents. Over time, predators may grow accustomed to stationary decoys and ignore them. Rotate positions, change appearances, and mix in motion-activated sounds or lights to keep the illusion real. 19. Educate Your Neighbors If you live in a suburban or semi-rural area, talk to your neighbors about local predator sightings and chicken safety. Shared information can help you stay a step ahead of common threats like roaming dogs or coyotes. Ask them to keep their pets on leashes and to report suspicious animal activity. A well-informed neighborhood helps everyone keep their flocks safer. Conclusion Keeping chickens safe from predators requires vigilance, smart planning, and proactive defenses. While no system is 100% foolproof, layering your protection—from coop construction and fencing to routine checks and environmental awareness—greatly reduces the risk of attack. The goal is to make your coop and run as uninviting and difficult to access as possible for any predator. Whether you’re raising a small backyard flock or managing a larger homestead setup, taking the time to implement these strategies will help ensure your chickens stay happy, healthy, and secure. With the right precautions, you can enjoy all the benefits of chicken-keeping without constantly worrying about what’s lurking in the shadows. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[shelyold]

By: Shelly Posted: Apr 27, 2025 This easy cherry pie recipe is thick and sliceable, with juicy cherry filling baked inside a golden, flaky pastry crust. Make it with fresh cherry pie filling and homemade pie crust for an extra-special summer dessert. Like my blueberry cobbler, I love serving pie à la mode with a big scoop of homemade ice cream in the summer months! Cherry pie is one of my go-to desserts at the height of cherry season here in the US. This pie is a classic recipe, packed with juicy sweet-tart homemade cherry filling and set in my favorite flaky pie crust. With Easter around the corner, I’m already picturing this pie on the dessert table next to the sponge cake and lemon cream cheese braid. I can’t think of a better way to end off brunch, and I’ll definitely be baking it again over the rest of the summer. What Makes This the Best Cherry Pie Recipe Easy to make. I make this pie from scratch with my easy 10-minute cherry pie filling and a buttery homemade crust. Both are simple recipes, but you can always substitute your favorite store-bought versions if you’re pressed for time. Thick and sliceable. After many rounds of testing, I’ve finally cracked the secret to thick slices of pie that hold in the filling. No runny cherry pie here! It comes down to simmering the cherries long enough and giving the pie plenty of time to set. Perfect for any season. Cherry pie is the perfect way to make the most of in-season fruit. The filling turns out best when I make it with ripe, sweet dark cherries. That being said, you can make this pie year-round with frozen cherries, too. Ingredients You’ll Need You really only need a handful of ingredients to make a perfect cherry pie. Even my crust recipe uses pantry staples that you likely have on hand. See my notes below. I’ve linked to the crust and filling recipes in the recipe card, where you’ll also find the ingredients list for this pie with specific amounts. Cherry Pie Filling – Homemade cherry pie filling is simple to make and so much better than store-bought (see below). Of course, if you’re not feeling up to making your own, or if you’re in a hurry, canned cherry pie filling works in a pinch. Pie Dough – Again, I prefer to use my homemade pie crust recipe. And again, if you’d prefer to use a store-bought refrigerated pie crust, that’s more than fine! Butter – Cut butter into cubes while it’s cold from the fridge. Egg – You’ll whisk an egg with water and salt to make an egg wash for the crust. It’s the key to a golden, glossy finish. Coarse Sugar – For sprinkling over the crust before baking. Make sure it’s coarse sugar and not granulated sugar, which dissolves in the heat.  Easy Homemade Cherry Pie Filling While canned filling will produce a perfectly acceptable cherry pie, if you ask me, nothing compares to the taste and thickness of homemade cherry pie filling. It’s as easy as tossing fresh or frozen cherries with water, sugar, lemon juice, and cornstarch and then simmering everything on the stovetop for 10 minutes. It stores in the fridge for days, and you can use the leftovers as a topping for cheesecake! How to Make Cherry Pie The pie crust and cherry pie filling each take about 10 minutes to make (I’ll usually get the filling simmering on the stove while I make the pie dough). Once your pie filling and dough are ready, follow the steps below. You’ll find the printable instructions in the recipe card. Roll out the pie dough. Press the dough into a pie plate. Prepare the pie crust. Start by flouring your work surface and rolling out one half of the pie dough into a 12-inch circle. Afterward, gently press the crust into a 9-inch pie plate. Fill the crust and top with butter. Add the top crust. Add the filling. Next, spread the cherry pie filling into the crust. Dot the top of the filling with cubes of butter. Add a top crust. Now, place the top crust over the pie and fold and crimp the edges. You can do a lattice crust like the one pictured (I include an in-depth tutorial on how to make a lattice pie crust in my apple pie recipe, for those interested). Otherwise, if you keep it simple with a solid crust, remember to cut 4-6 vent holes in the top to allow the steam to escape. Brush with an egg wash. Sprinkle with sugar and bake! Add an egg wash. Whichever top crust style you choose, finish it with an egg wash. Beat an egg with water and a pinch of salt, and brush the mixture all over the crust. Afterward, add a sprinkle of coarse sugar. Bake. Finally, place the cherry pie on a baking sheet, and pop that into a preheated oven to bake at 375ºF for 50-55 minutes. The filling should bubble for at least a few minutes before the pie comes out of the oven, and the crust should be golden brown. Cool. The key to a perfectly sliceable cherry pie is ample cooling time, so make sure to budget at least 4 hours for this pie to cool. I even like to bake the pie up to one day ahead of serving and let it set overnight. Make It Ahead I’ll sometimes bake two cherry pies, one to enjoy now and one to freeze for later. This pie freezes well before or after baking (see the storage tips below on how to freeze the baked version). To freeze the unbaked cherry pie, prepare the pie as directed and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, then in foil. Keep it frozen for up to 1 month. When it’s time to bake, unwrap the pie and bake it straight from frozen with 10-15 minutes added to the baking time. Recipe Tips Cook the filling. It’s important to simmer fresh cherries for the filling to avoid a soggy cherry pie. Pre-cooking the filling also prevents a cavity from forming under the top crust, which happens when fresh, uncooked cherries shrink as they bake. This doesn’t apply if you’re using a ready-to-use cherry pie filling from the store. Avoid burnt edges. I suggest checking the pie after 25 minutes. If you notice the crust is browning quickly, cover the edges with a pie shield or aluminum foil to prevent them from burning while the pie finishes baking. Cool the pie completely. If you slice into homemade cherry pie while it’s still warm (as tempting as it might be), you’ll end up with soupy slices that may fall apart. For this reason, I recommend giving this pie 4 hours or more to cool and set before slicing. It’s the secret to thick, picture-perfect slices. How to Store At room temperature. Store the cherry pie for up to 2 days at room temperature. Keep it lightly covered so that the crust doesn’t become soggy. Refrigerate. For longer storage, you can keep the covered pie in the fridge for up to 5 days. Freeze. Once the baked pie has cooled completely, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and a second layer of foil, and freeze it for up to 1 month. Thaw the pie, unwrapped, at room temperature. Print clock clock iconcutlery cutlery iconflag flag iconfolder folder iconinstagram instagram iconpinterest pinterest iconfacebook facebook iconprint print iconsquares squares iconheart heart iconheart solid heart solid icon Description This easy cherry pie recipe is thick and sliceable, with homemade cherry pie filling baked inside a golden, flaky pastry crust. 1 batch Cherry Pie Filling 1 batch Homemade Pie Dough 1 1/2 Tablespoons Butter, cut into small cubes 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon Water 1/8 teaspoon Kosher Salt 1–2 Tablespoons Coarse Sugar Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Roll out one half of the pie dough on a floured work surface until it is a 12-inch diameter circle. Transfer the dough sheet to a 9-inch pie plate. Work the dough gently into the shape of the pan. Add the cherry pie filling in an even layer. Dot the top of the pie filling with the pieces of butter. Add the top pie crust, either as a lattice or a solid top. If you use a solid top, cut 4-6 vent holes. Fold the edges under and crimp in your desired style. Combine the egg, water, and salt in a small bowl and beat well. Brush the egg mixture over the top crust. Sprinkle it with coarse sugar. Place the pie pan on a baking sheet. Bake in the preheated oven for 50-55 minutes or until the filling is bubbling for at least 5 minutes and the crust is golden brown. Check the pie after 25 minutes, as you may need to cover the edges to prevent burning. Remove from the oven and let cool for 4 hours up to overnight before slicing. Want To Save This Recipe?Find more recipes like this: Source link

[shelyold]

This spring, I moved into my first home, and though I love it, it’s a townhouse that lacks a proper backyard (which hurts my gardening heart). So, I got inventive and added a raised garden bed, and after testing, I may never go back to the worms and backaches of in-ground gardening again. My fellow editors and I put five more raised garden beds to the test so you can choose the right one for summer gardening—some have been beloved for over five years now, a testament to their longevity.   Before buying a garden bed, consider how much space you have, what you’d like to grow, and how much assembly sounds reasonable to you. Our recommendations will suit any situation, whether a patio herb garden or a large bed for tomatoes and zucchini. Credit: The Spruce What We Like Convenient self-watering feature Sturdy and durable (even in extreme weather) Great value for the price There was no clearer option for our best overall recommendation than the Keter Splendor Raised Garden Bed—our writer, Jeremy, has owned this now for five years without a single complaint. It’s survived a direct hit from a hurricane and still looks great and is perfect for many vegetables, from okra to heirloom tomatoes to banana peppers. The setup is easy and can be completed solo. The legs pop right in without needing tools, there's a false bottom that supports the soil with a space at the bottom for the water reservoir, and a tube that runs through to show when the reservoir is full. Meet the Tester Jeremy has been gardening since 2007, learning from his grandpa and great-grandma. He gardens in Florida using raised containers, since his only soil option is essentially sand from the canal. I love that this option includes a self-watering feature, since a common problem with raised beds is the soil drying out quickly. There is a little pop-up indicator (cutely shaped like a leaf) that shows how full the reservoir is and takes the guesswork out of watering.  Another smart feature: the drain plug at the bottom, which you can pull if you’re experiencing a lot of rainfall to avoid swamping plants. I think this bed is versatile for vegetables, flowers, and herbs, too, so it works for a variety of gardeners. Dimensions: 45 x 19 x 30 inches︱Material: Polypropylene resin︱Assembly Required: Yes Credit: The Spruce What We Like Simple and easy-to-complete assembly Durable and weather-resistant Beautiful rustic, farmhouse look What I don’t love about raised garden beds is how costly it becomes to buy and fill raised garden beds, so saving a bit on the actual container is highly advantageous. That’s a great aspect of the Keter 29-Gallon Elevated Garden Bed, which provides tons of growing space at a nice price. During testing, we planted basil, tomatoes, and marigolds in this bed, but we think it’s great for growing anything. Though we wish the weather were better, we were impressed with how well this held up in the rain, cold, and wind. The faux wood helps ease your mind from fading or other damage. Meet the Tester Jenica has gardened for decades and used raised garden beds for the last five years (she swears by them!) In this bed, she grows basil, tomatoes, and some flowers.  The simple setup is a huge pro—this took less than an hour with clear directions and not-too-many small pieces. It’s also worth mentioning the gorgeous farmhouse design, which is sure to enhance the look of your patio.  Similar to our best overall, this has the same pop-up water level indicator and drain plug to avoid overwatering plants. It's unclear after putting it together if it’s truly self-watering, but we haven’t noticed any watering issues so far. We can’t think of much to change about this bed, other than the portability—once full, it would be really difficult to move, so we wish it came on wheels. But if you want a permanent piece to last for garden seasons to come, this is a great option. Dimensions: 44 x 19 x 31 inches︱Material: Plastic︱Assembly Required: Yes Credit: The Spruce What We Like Gorgeous design with lots of space to grow Solid, sturdy construction Lots of size options As mentioned, raised garden beds are notorious for needing constant watering, since the moisture from the ground doesn’t help hydrate plant roots. But, in comes the self-watering garden bed from Vego Garden to save the day! Its large wicking cells store and distribute water to your plant babies as needed and provide lots of growing room for crops of all kinds. This is the option I have at my townhouse—while I thought moving was going to limit my growing options, I fit six tomato plants, six pepper plants, and over eight cucumbers towards the back, which will grow up a trellis. I think this bed would look beautiful with flowers, too. Meet the Tester I’m Mia, an experienced gardener going on my tenth growing season in New Jersey. I usually plant in the ground or in larger landscape garden beds, growing lots of veggies like tomatoes, zucchini, and cucumbers.  This holds whatever you like—fruits, veggies, flowers, or herbs, too. It stores water at the bottom and distributes it evenly to your plants, so you can be assured they’re staying hydrated from the bottom. I also love the iconic design and color options—it'll complement your yard without being an eyesore. As a note, the website says assembly takes “just a few minutes,” but this took me about an hour to build (with some teamwork). There are several small bolts and nuts to keep track of, but once built, it has a sturdy frame that hasn’t moved an inch. Dimensions: 2 x 4, 2 x 6, or 2 x 8 feet︱Material: VZ 2.0 (Steel & zinc alloy)︱Assembly Required: Yes Credit: The Spruce What We Like Built-in water reservoir Beautiful, timeless design Withstands rain and wind with ease Not all garden beds have to look utilitarian, which is one of the many reasons we love the Devon Garden Planter from Grandin Road. Its beautiful design, simple assembly, and durable frame won us over during testing as we established our herb garden. Strong rain and winds are no match for this raised garden bed, likely thanks to the unique design of the plastic growing container and wooden legs. Our previous raised garden bed was all wood, and it looked worn in comparison to this one. Meet the Tester Daniela is in the early stages of her gardening journey, and this is her third year growing crops in New Jersey. She grew herbs and a few peppers in a wooden raised garden bed for the past two years. As she recently moved to a new home, she replaced that bed with this one. Assembling the raised garden bed was easy. We had to put together the legs, which form the frame of the bed. As a note, you do need a cordless drill to screw the nails in, which we figured out mid-assembly. Once the frame is done, place the plastic bin of the bed on it, and you’re done. One cool feature of the raised garden bed is the water reservoir. It's been raining a lot in New Jersey, so we love that the bed collects water underneath it to distribute later. We wish we had chosen the black color so it shows less dirt, though a little power washing or a garden hose can help. Dimensions: 48 x 18 x 30 inches︱Material: Polyethylene resin︱Assembly Required: Yes Credit: Amazon Herbs are beautiful when planted between veggies, but why not give them their own dedicated space? This bed has several compartments to let each herb thrive in its own home, and the compact size doesn’t take up too much room on our patio. We’ve had this garden bed for four years now and can keep on growing in it. In our experience, it suits herbs best rather than larger crops like tomatoes, but we could see this as the perfect vessel for a flower garden, too. Meet the Tester Jenica is an experienced gardener in New York who uses wood and metal raised garden beds. In this bed, she planted her herb garden and cherry tomatoes (which didn’t hold up as well). Another great aspect of this is its construction. There’s a handy shelf underneath to store pots, garden tools, and soil, plus the height is perfect. We didn’t have to bend over to use it, though this might change for taller gardeners.  I recommend covering this in the wintertime or storing it in the garage, as the wood faded and weathered in a few places during testing.  Dimensions: 23 inches tall︱Material: Cedar Wood︱Assembly Required: Yes How We Tested Raised Garden Beds We tested several different raised garden beds across the country, varying in height, material, and features.  Ease of setup: No one wants to spend all day putting together a garden bed—you want to get to the good part, the planting! We noted how long assembly and setup took for each of these beds, including how involved it was, and how many little pieces were scattered around the yard afterwards. Credit: The Spruce Durability: You want peace of mind that your raised garden bed can stand up to the elements. Luckily, there was a lot of weather for us to deal with over the testing period. We were able to see how well the beds performed in wind, rain, and heat. Credit: The Spruce Spaciousness: Some beds are better suited for certain crops than others. We noted how spacious each was and what would grow best inside. Credit: The Spruce Design: These are now huge highlights of our backyards, so we awarded extra points if the design was particularly pretty and eye-catching. Credit: The Spruce Overall Value: Raised garden beds can be pricey, making the whole task cost much more than you’d like. We scored the overall value based on the quality and number of special features each bed has. Credit: The Spruce What to Look for in a Raised Garden Bed A Comfortable Height for Gardening Standard raised ground beds sit directly on the ground and are typically 6 to 8 inches high, like our best self-watering pick, the Vego Garden Self-Watering Garden Bed. Because of their low height, users need to bend or crouch down when tending to plants. Elevated raised garden beds, like our best overall pick, the Keter Splendor Garden Bed, offer a growing space at a more comfortable standing or sitting height. These beds have legs or are supported by a stand or trolley. How deep should a raised garden bed be? The ideal growing conditions depend upon the depth of your raised garden bed. For compact herbs, plants, and flowers, the depth can be as little as 6 to eight inches. Deep-rooted plants, such as eggplant or watermelons, fare better in soil at least 12 to 18 inches deep. Durable Construction Materials You can find raised garden beds in a variety of materials, including wood, plastic, metal, steel, and polyethylene. Wood: Choose a wood such as cedar or fir that is naturally weather-resistant or comes pre-sealed to create a more traditional, rustic aesthetic. Plastic and polyethylene beds are often more modern or utilitarian in design. While not very stylish, plastic options are often more lightweight and easier to clean. Metal: If you live in a harsh climate and durability is a top priority, a bed made of steel, like our best self-watering pick, the Vego Garden Self-Watering Garden Bed, is a solid option. What's the best soil for raised garden beds? The type of outdoor potting soil you choose depends on the plants you intend to grow, but a potting mix that gets its nutrients from a variety of sources, including peat, manure, compost, and fertilizer, provides the ideal nutrients for an assortment of plants. Extra Features Raised garden beds are advantageous for many reasons: the ability to garden on spots like a deck or patio, fewer weeds to deal with, and easier to reach (some are so high up, you don’t even need to bend over).  Many raised garden beds have special features to enhance the gardening experience, like self-watering reservoirs, attachable trellises, and wheels to make them easier to move. Some of these special features are present in our favorites, like the self-watering capabilities of our best design and best overall options. Why Trust The Spruce? I’m Mia Ingui, an editor at The Spruce who is an experienced gardener, growing bushels of tomatoes and cucumbers year after year. Though this was my first time trying a raised garden bed, I fell in love with the Vego Garden Self-Watering Bed as a great solution to my townhouse's lack of growing space. To compile this list, I took insights from my fellow editors and parsed through the feedback on their raised garden beds, all taking note of the ease of setup, size, durability, and overall value. The 5 Best Planters to Level Up Your Leafy Friends Source link

[shelyold]

Weeds are nightmare for gardeners! They rob resources like water, sunlight and nutrients from your plants. Apart from occupying your valuable gardening space, weeds harbor pest’s growth that can stunt plant growth. Off-course, you can use herbicides, but there are more natural ways to get rid of weeds. Growing ground cover plants will not just suppress weed growth; it prevents soil erosion and transforms your landscape. These low-maintenance plants are considered best way to add aromatic and vibrant colors to your leftover garden space. Creeping Jenny, Ice Plant, Sweet Woodruff, Coral Bells, Wild Ginger, Bugleweed, Hardy Geraniums, and Irish Moss are few prominent ground cover plants that can prevent weed growth. Benefits of Ground Cover Plants Ground cover plants are low-growing, spreading plants that fill in gaps in your garden and carpet the soil with attractive foliage, flowers, or both. Unlike traditional lawn grass, these plants offer a diverse array of colors, textures, and heights, creating a dynamic and functional layer in the landscape. One of the primary benefits of ground covers is their ability to suppress weed growth. By forming a dense mat over the soil, these plants outcompete weeds for essential resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients—making it hard for unwanted invaders to take root. Ground cover plants also help in preventing soil erosion. Their sprawling roots hold the soil firmly in place, especially on slopes or areas prone to runoff. This stabilizes the landscape and improves long-term soil health. Another major perk is their low-maintenance nature. Most ground covers require minimal watering, trimming, or fertilizing once established. Many are drought-tolerant and can thrive in areas where grass struggles to grow. Beyond practicality, ground covers are also decorative. From the golden hues of Creeping Jenny to the soft greens of Irish Moss, they bring life and color to empty patches, walkways, and shady corners—turning dull spaces into lush green beds. 25 Best Ground Cover Plants If you’re tired of weeding and looking for a beautiful yet functional solution, ground cover plants might be your garden’s new best friend. These plants don’t just add charm—they work hard too. Whether you’re filling in awkward spaces, covering slopes, or replacing high-maintenance lawns, there’s a ground cover plant suited for every purpose and condition. In this guide, we’ll explore 25 of the best ground cover plants—ranging from sun-lovers to shade dwellers, and evergreens to seasonal bloomers. No matter your gardening zone or landscape design, there’s a ground cover here to beautify your yard while keeping weeds at bay. 1. Nepeta Nepeta is a fast-spreading perennial that acts as a natural weed barrier thanks to its dense, low-lying foliage. As it matures, it forms a thick, fragrant mat of silver-green leaves and soft lavender-blue flowers that choke out weeds by shading the soil and limiting available space for invasive plants to grow. Its strong scent also helps deter certain pests, making it doubly beneficial in the garden. Nepeta thrives in full sun but tolerates partial shade. It prefers well-draining soil and is highly drought-tolerant once established, making it a fantastic option for dry or rocky areas where grass struggles to grow. Plant it in the spring or early fall, and space clumps about 18–24 inches apart to allow room for spreading. It’s hardy in USDA Zones 3–9 and requires minimal maintenance—occasional pruning keeps it tidy and encourages re-blooming. 2. Creeping Thyme Creeping Thyme is a fragrant, mat-forming herb that works wonders in weed suppression. Its dense, evergreen foliage quickly spreads over open soil, creating a living mulch that blocks light and space needed by weeds to thrive. When it blooms, it produces a carpet of tiny purple or pink flowers that attract pollinators and add a burst of color to pathways and borders. This plant prefers full sun and well-drained soil, thriving even in poor, rocky conditions. It’s highly drought-tolerant and thrives with minimal care once established. Creeping Thyme is hardy in USDA Zones 4–9 and makes an excellent ground cover between stepping stones or as a lawn alternative. Plant it in spring, spacing 12–18 inches apart, and enjoy its soft texture and pleasant aroma. 3. Sweet Woodruff Sweet Woodruff forms a lush carpet of whorled green leaves topped with tiny white star-like flowers in spring. It naturally deters weeds with its thick coverage, especially in shaded areas where other plants may struggle. Its fresh, hay-like scent adds a pleasant fragrance, and it’s often used as a natural moth repellent. It grows best in partial to full shade and prefers moist, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Sweet Woodruff is perfect for woodland gardens or under trees and is hardy in USDA Zones 4–8. Once planted, it spreads steadily, requiring little maintenance beyond occasional thinning if it becomes too aggressive. 4. Dead Nettle (Lamium) Dead Nettle is an excellent ground cover for shady spots, producing attractive foliage with silver or variegated patterns that outcompete weeds by forming a dense, light-blocking mat. Its small purple, pink, or white flowers bloom throughout the growing season, providing visual interest and pollinator value. It grows well in partial to full shade and thrives in moist, well-draining soil. Dead Nettle is suitable for USDA Zones 3–8 and works well in woodland gardens, under shrubs, or in difficult corners. It requires little more than occasional trimming to keep it neat and prevent excessive spreading. 5. Sedum Sedum is a low-growing succulent that forms tight clusters of fleshy leaves, ideal for suppressing weeds in dry, sunny spaces. Its water-storing capabilities and shallow root system allow it to thrive in tough conditions while keeping soil cool and shaded, making it difficult for weeds to germinate. It grows best in full sun and sandy or rocky, well-drained soil. Sedum is highly drought-resistant and requires almost no maintenance. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–9, it’s great for rock gardens, slopes, and borders. Many varieties also bloom with star-shaped flowers in summer, adding bonus beauty. 6. Lamb’s Ears Lamb’s Ears earns its name from its soft, fuzzy, silvery leaves that form a thick, velvety blanket over the soil. This dense matting blocks sunlight and space that weeds need to grow, making it a decorative and effective weed deterrent. Its silvery foliage adds contrast in the garden, and occasional purple flower spikes add vertical interest. Lamb’s Ears thrives in full sun and well-drained soil, tolerating drought and heat once established. It prefers drier conditions and doesn’t do well in high humidity or wet soils. Hardy in USDA Zones 4–9, it makes an excellent edging plant or filler in sunny garden beds. 7. Creeping Phlox Creeping Phlox forms a vibrant carpet of flowers in spring, ranging from pink and purple to white and blue. Its dense, needle-like foliage covers the ground year-round, crowding out weeds with its vigorous spreading habit. When in bloom, it’s not only a weed deterrent but a show-stopping floral ground cover. It grows best in full sun and well-draining soil, tolerating sandy or rocky conditions. Creeping Phlox is drought-tolerant and thrives with minimal maintenance. Ideal for slopes, rock gardens, or front borders, it’s hardy in USDA Zones 3–9 and should be planted in early spring or fall. Also Read: 10 Big Leaf Houseplants for Your Indoor Jungle 8. Epimedium (Barrenwort) Epimedium is a shade-loving ground cover that forms clumping, heart-shaped leaves which expand into a weed-smothering layer. It’s especially useful under trees or in dry shade, where it naturally prevents weed growth with its dense foliage and early-season flowers in delicate hues of yellow, pink, or purple. It prefers partial to full shade and tolerates dry, poor soils once established. Epimedium is hardy in USDA Zones 5–9 and has a slow but steady spreading habit. It requires very little maintenance and can be cut back in late winter to encourage fresh new growth in spring. 9. Mondo Grass Mondo Grass, though grass-like in appearance, is a hardy perennial that spreads slowly by underground rhizomes. Its tufts of dark green, strappy leaves grow close together, creating a thick mat that suffocates weeds and fills in bare garden patches with a tidy, low-maintenance look. It tolerates full sun to full shade but grows best in partial shade with moist, well-drained soil. Mondo Grass is hardy in USDA Zones 6–10 and is often used for edging pathways, planting under trees, or creating evergreen ground cover in tricky spots. 10. Amethyst in Snow Amethyst in Snow offers more than just weed control—it provides striking contrast with white petals and deep amethyst centers. Its spreading clumps create a dense root system that inhibits weed growth, especially in borders and open spaces where its bold blooms can shine. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil and is drought-tolerant once established. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–8, this perennial wildflower-style ground cover adds color, pollinator appeal, and weed control all in one. Plant in spring or fall and allow 12–18 inches between plants for spreading. 11. Oregano Oregano isn’t just a kitchen staple—it’s also a fantastic ground cover that suppresses weeds with its low, spreading habit and fragrant leaves. Its quick-growing foliage forms a thick blanket over soil, outcompeting weeds while offering the added benefit of culinary use. It thrives in full sun and well-drained soil and is quite drought-tolerant once established. Oregano is hardy in USDA Zones 5–10 and makes an excellent choice for herb gardens, borders, and between stepping stones. Cut it back occasionally to encourage dense growth and prevent flowering if you prefer more leaf production. 12. Lavender Lavender offers beauty, fragrance, and function. With its silvery-green leaves and spikes of purple blooms, it creates a visually appealing ground cover that repels pests and smothers weeds with its dense, woody stems. Plus, its natural oils deter deer and rabbits. Lavender thrives in full sun and dry, well-drained soil. It prefers a more alkaline pH and should not be overwatered. Hardy in USDA Zones 5–9, lavender is perfect for borders, slopes, and dry landscapes. Space plants about 12–18 inches apart and prune after flowering to keep the shape compact. Also Read: 19 Best Lavender Companion Plants to Grow in Garden 13. Irish Moss Irish Moss creates a lush, soft carpet of bright green that spreads low and dense, eliminating weed growth by denying light and space. It forms a smooth, cushion-like cover that’s perfect for filling cracks, edging paths, or adding softness around stones. It prefers partial shade to full sun in cooler climates and moist, well-drained soil. Irish Moss is hardy in USDA Zones 4–8 and needs regular moisture, especially during dry spells. It’s ideal for cool, damp spots where other ground covers might fail. 14. Ajuga (Bugleweed) Ajuga is a vigorous ground cover that forms dense mats of glossy leaves in shades of green, bronze, or purple. In spring, it sends up short spikes of blue, purple, or pink flowers that pollinators love. Its aggressive spread smothers weeds effectively. It prefers part shade but can tolerate full sun with enough moisture. Ajuga grows best in moist, well-drained soil and is hardy in USDA Zones 3–10. Plant it where its quick spread won’t interfere with other delicate plants, such as under trees or along shady paths. Also Read: 12 Plants that Deter Spider Mites 15. Basket-of-Gold This sunny ground cover gets its name from its brilliant yellow spring blooms. Basket-of-Gold forms low, dense mounds of gray-green foliage that spread quickly, shading the soil and leaving no room for weeds to emerge. It loves full sun and dry, well-drained soil, making it ideal for rock gardens, slopes, or borders. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–7, it’s drought-tolerant and thrives in poor soils. Prune after flowering to keep it neat and encourage more blooms the next year. 16. Sweet Alyssum Sweet Alyssum is a charming, fragrant ground cover that forms a delicate but weed-blocking mat of white, pink, or purple flowers. Though low-growing, its density and fast growth keep weeds at bay, and it continuously blooms in cooler weather. It prefers full sun to part shade and well-drained soil, thriving in cooler seasons or coastal areas. Often treated as an annual in cooler zones, it’s hardy as a perennial in USDA Zones 9–11. It reseeds easily and is a favorite for borders, hanging baskets, and between pavers. 17. Chamomile Chamomile’s ferny, apple-scented foliage and small daisy-like flowers create a soft, spreading mat that naturally discourages weeds. As it grows, it forms a living mulch that shades the soil and releases compounds that may suppress weed seeds. It prefers full sun and light, well-drained soil. German chamomile is typically grown as an annual, while Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial hardy in USDA Zones 4–9. It works well in herb gardens or as a ground cover along garden paths. Also Read: 18 Houseplants with Red and Green Leaves 18. Thrift (Armeria maritima) Thrift forms neat, grassy clumps that bloom with globe-shaped pink or purple flowers in spring. It grows in tight rosettes that expand gradually, filling in gaps and making it tough for weeds to take hold. This plant thrives in full sun and sandy, well-drained soils—especially coastal or rocky areas. Thrift is hardy in USDA Zones 4–8 and works wonderfully in borders, rock gardens, or along pathways. Once established, it’s both drought- and salt-tolerant. 19. Dianthus Dianthus brings both color and weed suppression to your garden with its low, mounding growth habit and fragrant blooms. Its evergreen foliage forms dense mats that minimize weed invasion, and its pink, white, or red flowers bloom through spring and summer. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil, thriving in USDA Zones 3–9. Deadheading spent blooms encourages continued flowering. Ideal for borders and edges, Dianthus is also deer-resistant and tolerant of heat once established. 20. Wall Germander Wall Germander is a compact, woody perennial with small aromatic leaves and lavender-pink summer flowers. Its tight-growing habit creates a structured, low hedge that prevents weeds from establishing beneath or between its foliage. It prefers full sun and dry, well-drained soil, especially in Mediterranean-style or xeriscape gardens. Hardy in USDA Zones 5–9, it’s drought-tolerant and attracts bees while resisting deer and rabbits. Trim regularly to maintain shape and encourage dense growth. 21. Aronia (Groundcover Chokeberry) Dwarf Aronia varieties make excellent ground covers with glossy green leaves, spring flowers, and brilliant red fall foliage. Their dense, shrubby spread prevents weeds while adding multi-season beauty to the landscape. They grow well in full sun to part shade and adapt to various soils, though they prefer moist, well-drained conditions. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–8, Aronia is also prized for its edible berries and resistance to pests and diseases. 22. Creeping Jenny Creeping Jenny spreads quickly with vibrant chartreuse or golden-green leaves that cascade over edges and blanket the ground. It out competes weeds by forming a low, dense mat, especially in moist or shaded areas. It grows in sun to part shade and prefers moist, rich soil but can adapt to various conditions. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–9, it’s excellent for containers, borders, or wet areas. Monitor its spread, as it can become aggressive if not managed. 23. Lily of the Valley Lily of the Valley spreads via underground rhizomes to form dense colonies of lush green leaves and sweet-scented white bell flowers. It naturally prevents weeds by forming a thick carpet, particularly in shady areas. It prefers partial to full shade and moist, well-draining soil. Hardy in USDA Zones 3–9, it’s ideal under trees or in woodland gardens. Be mindful—it can spread rapidly and is toxic if ingested, so plant with care around pets or children. 24. Ferns Many fern species, such as Lady Fern and Ostrich Fern, form spreading clumps that provide excellent ground coverage in shaded areas. Their leafy fronds block sunlight and help retain soil moisture while deterring weed growth underneath. Ferns generally thrive in full to partial shade with moist, humus-rich, well-draining soil. Most are hardy in USDA Zones 3–8, depending on the species. They’re perfect for woodland edges, under trees, and shaded borders where other plants won’t grow. 25. Microbiota Decussata Siberian Cypress is a low-growing, evergreen conifer that creates a spreading mat of feathery green foliage that turns bronze in winter. It provides year-round weed suppression in colder climates, where few other ground covers thrive. It prefers full sun to partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. Hardy in USDA Zones 2–7, it’s ideal for slopes, rock gardens, or under tall shrubs. Once established, it needs little care and offers year-round texture and color. Conclusion Weeds don’t stand a chance when your garden is armed with the right ground cover plants. These hardworking, low-maintenance spreaders not only crowd out unwanted invaders by blocking light and space—they also protect your soil, reduce erosion, and add texture, fragrance, and color to your landscape. Whether you’re dealing with a dry slope, a shady nook, or a sunny border, there’s a ground cover plant suited to the job. By choosing the right varieties for your conditions, you can build a healthier, more resilient garden that naturally stays weed-free—all without relying on chemicals or constant pulling. Let nature do the heavy lifting, one spreading stem at a time. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[shelyold]

Clematis are beautiful, showy vines with gorgeous flowers, attractive seed heads, and a highly ornate climbing or sprawling habit. They bloom in spring, summer, or fall, depending on their group, and put on a magnificent floral show once established. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. These fast-growing vines are easy to cultivate and care for, but correct pruning is an important step in their annual maintenance. Not only does it ensure masses of blooms each year, but it’s also needed to establish strong, healthy growth that produces multiple stems loaded with blossoms along their entire length. So if you’d like to increase your vines’ flower power, let’s cut to the chase! Here’s how to prune clematis for copious blooms: The following steps for first- and second-year care aren’t mandatory – clematis vines love to grow, and they’ll do fine on their own if you want to plant and leave them be to start. But for strong, multi-stemmed plants with blossoms and leaves from top to bottom, here’s what to do. First-Year Care In the first year after planting, all clematis varieties, regardless of the pruning group they belong to, should be cut back hard in late winter to six to 12 inches. The drawback in doing this is the short-term loss of flowers in their first full growing season – don’t expect any blossoms from Group 1 or Group 2 cultivars, the ones that bloom on old wood. But the long-term benefits are stronger plants that produce buds low on the stems, not just at the tips, and more blooms overall. Sacrificing a season’s flowers is emotionally challenging, so hold onto that vision of lush, fanning vines loaded from tip to toe with colorful blooms – this step helps it come true, with a little patience! The late-blooming Group 3 vines bloom on new wood and these plants always get a hard cut back, so their flowering performance isn’t affected. Second-Year Care A repeat of this hard pruning for vines in their second year is often recommended by growers. Photo by Lorna Kring. But in the second year, cut back only to a height of about three feet – this leaves a section of old wood in place, so you can expect some bud production. A hard second-year pruning means plants are slower to reach their mature height, but they develop more stems with bushier growth, which naturally results in more flowers. Third-Year Care and Beyond: The Three Groups After the first- and/or second-year pruning, follow the guidelines as detailed for each category below in each year to follow. Early Spring Flowering Group 1 includes the early varieties that bloom in late winter into early spring, and require no pruning for flower production – only a light cleanup is needed to tidy plants. These varieties flower on old wood. As a loose rule, if they burst into blossom before June, they’re in Group 1. Plants in this group can be of two types. Either they don’t die back in winter, and form deciduous, multi-stemmed thickets, like those of ‘Pamela Jackman.’ Or they’re extensive, evergreen climbers that develop thick, woody stems, like ‘Apple Blossom.’ If needed, Group 1 vines can be trimmed sparingly after flowering. At this time, trim stems lightly to tidy plants and remove any dead or damaged wood. Occasionally, these large, mature vines need to be cut back to renew vigor or for home maintenance, like painting. For a hard cut back, wait until plants have finished flowering, then cut back to about 12 inches, using a garden saw for thick stems. New shoots will emerge from the crown in summer. Photo by Lorna Kring. Some popular Group 1 species include Clematis alpina, C. armandii, C. macropetala, C. cirrhosa, and C. montana – which you can read about in our guide to 13 of the best spring-flowering clematis varieties. Repeat Summer Flowering Group 2 plants are the showy and large-flowered varieties of summer. Many of these are hybrids. They develop multi-stemmed thickets that bloom first on old wood in late spring and early summer. Then, after deadheading the spent flowers, plants rebloom on new wood in mid- to late summer. Pruning these plants is a two-stage process. The first stage involves a light grooming in late winter to tidy plants and remove dead or damaged stems. Just as new growth emerges, check each stem, scanning from the top down – you’re looking for the first set of plump leaf buds. Snip lightly a little above the buds to remove just the top growth. Use a light touch and avoid a hard or heavy shearing – cutting back too much at this time results in flower loss. Remove any dead stems or spindly, weak growth close to the base. The second stage involves deadheading spent blooms immediately after flowering. Cut back vines to a set of healthy leaves below spent flowers to encourage new blooms. Group 2 cultivars include ‘Jackmanii,’ ‘Rouge Cardinal,’ ‘Ville de Lyon,’ and many more that you can read about in our guide to the best summer-flowering varieties of clematis. Late Summer and Fall Flowering Vines that flower in late summer and early autumn are the Group 3 types, and these require a hard cut back. These multi-stemmed bushes go dormant in winter, and produce strong, new shoots from the cut stems each spring. They flower entirely on new growth, which is why they’re the last group to flower. Pruning these varieties is very straightforward. In late winter, simply cut back all stems to a height of about 12 inches, cutting just above a set of healthy leaf buds. If you have mature, robust plants with numerous stems, you can stagger where you cut the stems and leave a few longer ones to bloom at varying heights. And for varieties that self-seed aggressively – like the sweet autumn species, C. paniculata – prune hard to a height of 12 inches immediately after flowering. This removes seed heads and minimizes unwanted self-propagation. Some popular Group 3 vines include C. tangutica, C. texensis, and C. viticella. ‘Bill MacKenzie,’ ‘Etoile Rose,’ and ‘Alba Luxurians’ are well-known cultivars. For lavish growth with an abundance of flowers, keep the following tips in mind: Know which group each vine belongs to and follow the appropriate guidelines. If you’re not sure what you have growing, refer to our guide to the different types of clematis to help ID your plants. Use clean, sharp garden shears or snips to protect vines from damage or infection. If you don’t have suitable garden shears, you might like these Berger Waved Hedge Shears, available from Amazon. Berger Waved Hedge Shears The chrome plated blades are nine inches long, and the waved shape prevents branches from slipping. For large, woody stems, use a clean, sharp garden saw, such as this one from Garrett Wade. Folding Pruning Saw This foldable pruning saw features a 10-inch toothed blade, with a comfortable rubber covered handle. It ships with a leather pouch that can be attached to your belt for easy access. Have trellising or other supports in place for new growth to attach to. For trellis ideas, check out this guide on how to train clematis to grow up poles. Cut stems in late winter, snipping just above a strong set of leaf buds. Promptly deadhead spent flowers on Group 2 vines to encourage reblooming. When mature Group 1 or Group 2 vines begin to lag in vitality, producing fewer flowers or blooms that appear only at the stem tips, cut back hard after flowering for renewed floriferous growth. A Cut Above Clematis are showy vines that make a gorgeous addition to gardens and yards. And with just a bit of selective pruning, each year you can enjoy full vines loaded with masses of flowers and lush foliage! Time your trimming to coincide with the emergence of new growth and always use clean, sharp snips for happy, healthy plants. How do you folks use these showy vines? Tell us about it in the comments section below. And for more clematis knowledge, check out these guides next: Photos by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published April 17th, 2022. Last updated: May 24th, 2025. Product photos via Garrett Wade and Amazon. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Cilantro, also known as coriander, produces an abundance of umbrella shaped inflorescences covered in tiny blooms that attract pollinators and other beneficial insects. In fact, its ability to attract beneficial bugs is what makes it one of the most powerful companion plants in the organic vegetable garden! There are truly countless cilantro companion plant combinations you can make in the garden. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. But growing cilantro as a companion plant takes some forethought and planning, since this is a cool season herb that blooms when temperatures begin to warm up. In this article you’ll learn about some of the best cilantro companion plant combinations that you can use in your own garden. You’ll learn how these partnerships work in detail, but let’s start off with a quick view of our list: 11 of the Best Companion Plants for Cilantro Companion planting allows gardeners to create stunning visual effects in the vegetable patch but primarily contributes to healthier plants and greater yields in an organic food growing system. There are numerous benefits that come from this gardening approach, and you’ll learn about many of them in this article. If this is a subject you’d like to learn more about, be sure to also read our guide to the scientifically-backed benefits of companion planting. In this article we’ll focus on cilantro companion plants. Could you use a few tips for growing this herb? Our guide to growing cilantro has you covered. 1. Arugula As mentioned, the main benefit of using cilantro as a companion plant is its ability to attract beneficial insects with its flowers – making it protective for crops such as arugula! The hoverflies drawn to cilantro’s nectar rich flowers act as natural enemies to armyworms, which are common arugula pests. Why not try wild arugula, a heat and cold resistant salad green packed with pungent flavor! Wild Arugula Seeds You can purchase organic wild arugula seeds in a wide array of packet sizes from High Mowing Organic Seeds. And check out our guide to growing arugula for more information! 2. Beans Cilantro and beans make great companion plants, not just because of the pest protection offered by the herb. In addition to providing services as an insectary plant in companion planting, in one study coriander was shown to also increase the macronutrient content of beans such as favas. There are so many different types of beans you might consider growing in this partnership. One of my favorite varieties of pole beans is ‘Northeaster,’ a Romano type that produces delicious, seven- to eight-inch long, flat, green pods in just 56 days. ‘Northeaster’ Pole Beans You can find ‘Northeaster’ pole bean seeds in your choice of packet sizes from High Mowing Organic Seeds. Learn more about growing green beans here. 3. Cabbage One of the sights I most enjoy as I prepare my spring garden is a parasitoid wasp dragging a cabbage looper across the soil to its den. While this is indeed gruesome for the caterpillar, this prey is both host and food for the wasp’s babies. As baby wasps feed on these cabbage pests, the adults need nectar to survive, and cilantro is one of their favorite plants! Cabbage is a cool-season brassica and there are a number of different varieties to choose from. ‘Caraflex’ produces petite heads that weigh in at one and a half to two pounds, and are ready to harvest in 75 days. ‘Caraflex’ Cabbage You can find ‘Caraflex’ cabbage seeds in packets of 140 available from Botanical Interests. Then read our guide to growing cabbage for more information. 4. Carrots In this article we’re looking primarily at combinations where cilantro is the helper – but in the case of carrots the tables have turned. Growing carrots with coriander at a one to one ratio actually increases the yield of the herb. It’s also an efficient use of garden space, as the carrots are maturing underground. There are so many wonderful types of carrots out there that it can be hard to choose just one. ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ is a chantenay carrot cultivar that has short, thick roots, making it perfect for all types of soils, and even the raised beds used in square foot gardens. ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ Carrot Grab some ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ carrot seeds in an assortment of packet sizes from True Leaf Market. Learn more about growing carrots here. 5. Eggplant Studies show that interplanting eggplant with cilantro or dill can help control Colorado potato beetle populations, as both herbs attract the pest’s natural predators. Ladybugs are one of these beneficial insects that enjoy cilantro pollen. They also enjoy feasting on Colorado potato beetle eggs, helping to reduce the risk of these pests attacking not only your eggplant, but also potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and ground cherries! ‘Ping Tung Long’ is an heirloom eggplant variety that bears an abundant crop of thin fruits reaching over a foot long. They are ready to harvest after 70 days from transplanting. ‘Ping Tung Long’ Eggplant You can find ‘Ping Tung Long’ seeds available in a variety of packet sizes from High Mowing Organic Seeds. Learn more about cultivating eggplant here. 6. Hot Peppers Coriander plants also lend a hand in protecting hot peppers from pests. One study found that when growing these two plants together, the hot peppers sustained less damage from thrips, caterpillars, and fruit flies. Sow the cilantro early in spring, and transplant your hot peppers after the last average frost so that the coriander blooms just as the peppers are becoming established. When your hot peppers are nearing harvest, it will be time to resow some fall cilantro seeds, giving you the homegrown makings of many flavor packed meals. Just add avocado! ‘Ring-O-Fire’ is an early-maturing type of cayenne pepper with fruits that register 30,000 on the Scoville scale, making them hotter than jalapenos, but nowhere near as hot as ghost peppers! ‘Ring-O-Fire’ Cayenne Pepper You can find ‘Ring-O-Fire’ seeds available from High Mowing Organic Seeds. You can learn more about growing hot peppers here. 7. Kale Kale is never so delicious as when it is harvested fresh from the garden – but aphids can throw a wrench into our plans for nutritious kale salads. Cilantro to the rescue, yet again! Research shows that growing kale with coriander plants increases kale harvests thanks to the increase in aphid predators attracted to the cilantro. ‘Dazzling Blue’ is a type of lacinato kale that has eye-catchingly bright leaves, bringing unexpected, icy blue beauty to the garden patch. ‘Dazzling Blue’ Kale Organic ‘Dazzling Blue’ kale seeds are available at High Mowing Organic Seeds in an array of packet sizes. Learn more about growing kale here. 8. Lettuce Did you ever consider that in addition to ladybugs and lacewings, spiders could be beneficial to your garden? Plant some coriander with your lettuce crops, and these helpful arachnids will flourish, providing yet another means of controlling insect pests. Just make sure to plant low-growing plants like lettuce to the south side of the taller herb, so that the shorter crop doesn’t end up in the shade when the cilantro flowers. There are many different types of lettuce – but if you’re looking for one that will remain edible going into summer, choose a heat tolerant variety such as ‘Jericho.’ ‘Jericho’ Lettuce Pick up packets of ‘Jericho’ lettuce seeds from High Mowing Organic Seeds. Check out our guide to growing lettuce for more information. 9. Radishes One of the benefits of growing radishes and cilantro together is that this combination allows gardeners to benefit from something called a multi-storied or multi-tier cropping system, making more efficient use of a plot of land. Pretend that your garden plot is an apartment building. In this analogy, the radishes live in the basement and ground floor, while cilantro quickly grows taller to dwell on the second and higher floors! And since smaller radish varieties have a short growing season, you’ll harvest the radishes early in the season, leaving cilantro more room to grow as it bolts and produces beneficial insect-attracting flowers. There are so many types of radishes to choose from! One of the classics is ‘French Breakfast,’ a French heirloom originally known as ‘Radis Demi-long Rose a Bout Blanc’ – a mouthful whether you are fluent in that language or not! You can see why it was given a name change. ‘French Breakfast’ radishes are ready to harvest in just 26 days – and no, you don’t really have to eat them for breakfast! ‘French Breakfast’ Radish You can find ‘French Breakfast’ seeds in your choice of packet size available at Eden Brothers. Learn more about how to grow radishes here. 10. Tomatoes One of the most common tomato pests is the whitefly, a small insect related to aphids that causes damage to plants and transmits viruses. Guess who eats whitefly larvae? Ladybugs, hoverflies, and lacewing larvae! By growing tomatoes with cilantro companion plants, you’ll attract lacewings and help keep away whitefly infestations, increasing yields from your beefsteak, ‘Cherokee Purple,’ and ‘Hawaiian Pineapple’ crops. If you’re in the mood for a recommendation, ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’ is one of my favorite cherry tomato cultivars. Intensely tangy, these small fruits can be thrown whole into summer salads. ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’ Tomato You can pick up some ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’ seeds in a variety of packet sizes from True Leaf Market. Our guide to growing tomatoes has more information. 11. Turmeric Are you one of those cutting edge gardeners growing unusual fruit and vegetable crops or tropical herbs and spices in your backyard or greenhouse? Consider combining turmeric and cilantro, along with onion, for higher yields of turmeric rhizomes! If you live in a warm location, equivalent to USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, you can grow turmeric outdoors year round. Turmeric plants are grown from rhizomes rather than seeds. You can grow your own from a supermarket rhizome as long as it isn’t treated to inhibit sprouting – or skip the sprouting part and get started with a plant! Turmeric You can find potted turmeric plants available from Burpee. Learn more about growing turmeric here. An Herbal Helper for the Garden These cilantro plant partnerships should get you on a good start on using this popular herb to the benefit of your garden. But keep in mind that these combinations are just the tip of the companion planting iceberg – there are so many more to try out! Are there any other cilantro companion plant pairings you’ve tried and loved? Or are there any combos you would like feedback on before you try them out? Let us know in the comments section below! Want to learn more about growing cilantro and other types of herbs? We have more reading for you right here: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Botanical Interests, Burpee, Eden Brothers, High Mowing Organic Seeds, and True Leaf Market. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Happy Friday GPODers! Last month we had two guest posts from Fine Gardening‘s digital editor, Christine Alexander, who shared some behind-the-scenes photos from a fall video shoot at Coastal Maine Botanical Garden (If you missed those, be sure to check out Part 1 and Part 2). Today, Christine is taking us to a drastically different public garden, as we revisit her trip to Monteverde Orchid Garden in Costa Rica. This hidden gem is located in the lush (and rare) cloud forests of the Puntarenas province, which are teaming with biodiversity and the perfect climate for this fabulous array of exotic, tropical plants. So this submission is very late in coming, but as an excuse–there has been a lot going on! My husband and I were supposed to be married in 2021, but due to covid we ended up postponing it from June of that year to May of 2022. Despite this, we decided to keep our planned honeymoon to Costa Rica on August of 2021. At that time, cases were low and we desperately needed a break from all of the stress the pandemic has wrought. Costa Rica was so beautiful and it was such a special trip that we ended up eloping while we were there. I have probably 500 photos I could share of the beauty of that country but I decided to send you something kind of cool that we accidentally ran into which is the Monteverde Orchid Garden. Despite working at Fine Gardening for 7 years, I have to admit I didn’t know much about orchids and was astounded to learn some of the specifics that make them special – for instance, many orchids have exclusive relationships with a specific pollinator, that they have developed incredible ways to lure insects into their flowers for pollination such as mimicking the scent of pheromones of the opposite sex or even the smell of rotting flesh all in an effort to attract insects to pollinate them. Other orchids are noted for their highly floral or sweet scent and are often used in perfumery as a result. The cooking ingredient vanilla actually comes from an orchid, the Vanilla planifolia. (You can learn how to grow your own vanilla orchid here). The Monteverde Orchid garden has over 450 varieties or orchids, including the smallest orchids in the world – which we needed a magnifying glass to view. It is a small garden, but packed full of flowers and information. Highly recommend checking it out if you are an orchidist or have orchidelirium, (the history of which is fascinating!) More on orchids: We’re starting off small (I think either a type of Rudolfiella or Polystachya), but not as small as they get! As Christine mentioned, Monteverde Orchid Garden is home to some of the world’s smallest orchids, and the tiniest specimens need a very good lens and the perfect lighting to be able to capture more than a blurry speck of color. To see their tiniest blooms, be sure to check out the Monteverde Orchid Garden Instagram: @monteverdeorchidgarden. And a disclaimer: Orchids are one of the largest plant families in the world, with over 25,000 different species that have wildly diverse characteristics. It is no small feat to become well-versed in the world of orchids, and it takes years of dedication to be an expert. I tried my best to identify all of the orchids shown, but I apologize in advance for any plants I incorrectly label. If you’re looking to dig a little deeper into orchids, I encourage you to seek out other great resources available like the American Orchid Society. When most of us think of orchids, the image of big, colorful blooms on top of a thin stem likely comes to mind. The moth orchids (Phalaenopsis spp. and cvs., Zones 10–12) and similar species that make an appearance in grocery stores at least once every year. However, this diverse plant family is full of a wide variety of plant forms. The zigzag of overlapping leaves on the Oersted’s lockhartia (Lockhartia oerstedii) give the plant a fabulous texture. Another form that doesn’t immediately come to mind when we think ‘orchid’, the foliage of Maxillaria valenzuela fans out and creates a spectacular shape when hanging or potted. Of course, hanging from a tree in its natural environment gives you the added bonus of seeing those spectacular roots at work! The Lycaste genus of orchids have very distinct, long sepals that contrast the colors of the petals. If you look toward the base of the plant in the background you’ll see another Lycaste identifier, their other-worldly egg-shaped pseudobulbs. We all know insects that masquerade as plants, but have you ever seen a plant that could be mistaken for a pollinator? The aptly named Kramer’s butterfly orchid (Psychopsis krameriana) appears to have wings, long antenna, and even a spooky little face if you look closely. Of course, orchids aren’t the only flowers you’ll see at Monteverde Orchid Garden. Even the humble hardy fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica, Zones 5–10) looks extra spectacular in this tropical forest environment. Like the Maxillaria valenzuela we saw above, many orchids are made even more enthralling by their ability to hang and grow from trees and other plant structures. This hanging is not only a visual appeal, but often a crucial part of the survival of the plant. Stanhopea wardii uses this hanging as well as their unique shape and coloring to mimic the female euglossine bee. The orchid does this so well that male euglossine bees are actually tricked into pollinating! And although orchids are often staked and supported for blooms to be upright, there are several species with flowers that will spill even when grown in a traditional container. Helmut gongora (Gongora galeata) is one of those species, with its odd string of curling blooms. Another example is densely flowered acineta (Acineta densa), with clusters of glossy yellow blooms. I also love that the orchid’s buds look like the largest green grapes you’ve ever seen. A closer look at Acineta densa reveals the speckled red petals hidden inside. While orchids are obviously the highlight of this garden, there are many other tropical plants to be seen. Thankfully, we have another batch of fantastic photos from Christine to enjoy next week. In the mean time, remember to check out @monteverdeorchidgarden on Instagram. If you have photos of past travels (from last year or the last several years), winter is a great time to reminisce and revel in warmer days. If you decide to go through any old photos this weekend, consider sharing any garden photos with the blog! Follow the directions below to submit your photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad. Have a fantastic weekend!   Have a garden you’d like to share? Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here. Fine Gardening Recommended Products The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. A crevice garden replicates the environmental conditions of mountain tops, deserts, coastlines, and other exposed or rocky places on earth. These striking garden features provide perfect conditions for the plants native to these far-off places, bringing the cultivation of these precious gems within everybody’s reach. Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs. Berry & Bird Rabbiting Spade, Trenching Shovel Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Ideal Tool for All Gardeners Use: Our heavy duty trenching shovel is designed by a professional gardening tool designer. Lifetime Durability: This heavy duty drain spade is made of high-quality stainless steel, it is very strong and durable, even if it is used for high-strength work, it will not bend. Ergonomic Wood Handle: The handle of this planting spade is made of ash hardwood harvested from FSC-certified forests and has an ergonomically streamlined design, making it very suitable for everyone's hands. Multi-Use: This digging shovel is generally used for digging trenches, digging holes, transplanting, edging, moving compost, cutting thick turf and furrowing. The sharp blade allows you to cut, scoop, dig, lift and dice in hard soil. Source link

[shelyold]

A pillowcase is a pillowcase, right? Well actually, this couldn't be further from the truth. As with all good things in design, it turns out there are some pillowcase styles that a far more controversial than others. So, is the one you reach for someone else's last resort? Let's find out.Some people are drawn to the hotel-like sophistication of a sleek Oxford trim, while others enjoy the skincare benefits of a velvety smooth silk. But just like a pillowcase, there are two sides to everything.To find out whether your pillowcase is keeping up with the latest bedding trends, or aging your bed faster than a bad night's sleep, we asked the design experts for the most controversial pillowcase types — here's the four they named. You may like 1. The Oxford PillowcaseThis sophisticated yet relaxed bedroom shows that Oxford pillowcases don't have to be deemed as 'stuffy'. With the right styling, they feel timeless and cozy.(Image credit: Paul Massey)The Oxford pillowcase. Designers love it for its fitted, hotel-like look, but many people can't get past its fussy and formal nature. Out of all the pillowcase types, this is definitely the most polarizing.Never heard of it? "The 'Oxford' fabric border pillowcase is a more decorative option with a pretty edging, usually ranging from 5-10cm, which adds a more classic style," says Emily and Jonathan Attwood, the husband-wife duo behind luxury sleep brand, Scooms.But, without the right styling, this luxury appeal can often translate as 'stuffy'. These pillowcases also require an added level of maintenance to ensure the extra edge lays flat, and can often appear messy if not steamed beforehand. Urgh.Emily and Jonathan AttwoodSocial Links NavigationDesigners and Sleep SpecialistsEmily and Jonathan are a husband and wife duo who started the UK and USA-based bedding companyHowever, despite my precautions against this controversial pillowcase style, I think I may have actually come around to it. Livingetc's interiors editor Emma Breislin owns a set; "Admittedly, I bought them because they were the last option on the shelf and I was hosting guests that night, but I've come to love the extra detail they add," she tells me."And Lucy Williams likes them, too," she adds, showing me an excerpt of the effortlessly stylish content creator's 'Remotely' Substack where she lists oxford pillowcases as one of the things she finds most chic, adding: "And if they're ironed, too? Oof, that's fancy."Could this controversial pillowcase actually be the answer to a hotel-worthy bed? The White Company Santorini Oxford Pillowcase – Single This style is a classic iteration of the Oxford design. The brand has named it the 'Santorini' case for good reason — the eyelet detailing and crisp white cotton would fit beautifully in a coastal bedroom aesthetic. If you are going to go Oxford, you might as well go all in. 2. Any Pillowcase With a Decorative SideRuffle bedding can be a great way to do decorative pillowcases without having to worry about uncomfortable textures like lace or beading.(Image credit: Future)Decorativly-trimmed or pillowcases with too much frill are another classic offender. I'll admit, they're on the top of my 'avoid-at-all-costs' list. And to clarify: any pillowcase with a lace trim, ruffles, or, dare I say, beads, falls under this category.So what makes them so controversial? The biggest design flaw is that they can detract from the appearance and feel of a bed. Visually, they make a more minimalist bedroom appear cluttered and overwhelming. Not to mention, that edge of texture can be stiff and scratchy as well — not ideal sleeping conditions.However, not all hope is lost, pillows with a decorative side can be great if you want to boost the aesthetic of your bedding set. "These pillows are better used for decoration than sleep," says Emily. "Though they won't be the most comfortable to sleep on, they will look great on the bed."If your heart is set on a decorative edge, try opting for a softer, breathable material, like linen, to boost comfort while you're at it. And be prepared to find somewhere to store them while you sleep! Maize Organic Cotton Pillowcase, Set of 2 Choosing a decorative sided pillow that blends form and function is the best way to make this style work. For instance, these pillows are made of organic cotton, and the ruffle won't be as offensive as something like lace or beading. 3. Zip-Close PillowcaseDepending on the kind of zip-closure pillow you choose, it can beautifully blend into the pillow piping instead of sticking out and disrupting your aesthetic.(Image credit: Dan Hearne. Design: Anna Møller and Tomasz Redzimski at Builder and Decorator.)But do Emily and Jonathan have a clear no-go when it comes to pillowcases? Of course. "For us, one of the most controversial pillowcase types is those with zip enclosures," they share.Why? Well, zips are difficult to hide under material, ruining the aesthetics and clean lines of the pillowcase material. "What's more, if the zip is too large, then it can be felt whilst sleeping, which is a real irritant," says Jonathan.Zips can also be a problem when washing pillows, as they can catch on other laundry items, potentially causing damage by pulling or tearing.However, this doesn't have to be the end of the zip-close pillow case story. The silk pillowcase I use has a zip closure, and I love it because it keeps the pillow tight in its case. Once again, it simply comes down to what will best suit your sleeping experience. The White Company Zip Closure Pillow Protectors, Set of 2 If you don't like the feel of sleeping on a zip-closure pillowcase, perhaps you can settle for a zip-closure pillow protector. Pillow protectors keep pillows looking and feeling as good as new for as long as possible. Zip-closures are much more common for this kind of product because once you put your actual pillowcase over it, the zipper is out of sight, out of mind. 4. Pillowcases with an Envelope BackThough envelope-back pillows may be a pain to make the bed with, once styled they create a streamlined look in the bedroom.(Image credit: Bedfolk)Last but not least, we have the envelope back pillowcase — the ones that close in the center-back of the case. The main reason for controversy is the awkwardness of having to shove your pillow in from the center of the case. There is no easy way to do it, making it one that many people tend to avoid.Emily and Jonathan agree, saying if they had to choose another least favorite it would have to be the envelope back style. "It can be difficult to fit a pillow into a pillowcase with a central opening, which is not ideal if you're changing your pillowcase once a week."Also, if you're someone who turns their pillow over during the night to sleep on the other side, then the feeling of the line of the central flap can be rather uncomfortable.The perk of these pillowcases though, is that they appear seamless and crisp when the bed is made. There is no flap in sight, and you won't have to worry about the pillow peaking out. See, there's always a flip side! Classic Cotton Pillowcase Pair in Rose You can't go wrong with a crisp cotton pillowcase, and this pair is the classic example of a comfortable and classy envelop close design. Plus, the soft rose coloring is subtle and chic. While there are plenty of controversial pillowcases to ruffle a few feathers, there are also plenty of pillowcases that you can't go wrong with.Start by choosing the best bedding material for your sleep sanctuary, and the right pillowcase will follow suit. Source link

[shelyold]

After years of testing, we have finally perfected the ultimate chocolate cake recipe. Our recipe has been tried and loved by tens of thousands of people worldwide, all of whom agree that it is the most amazing chocolate cake ever. We promise, once you try this recipe, you won’t go back to the others. For more delicious cake, try our Most Amazing Texas Sheet Cake. Why Our Recipe It’s Moist! — One of the key measures of a chocolate cake is whether or not it is moist. This one checks every box! One Bowl —The batter is made in just one bowl, so no combining wet and dry ingredients separately. Rich Chocolate Flavor — This cake is rich and fudgy, making it a true indulgence for any chocolate cake lover. This fudgy chocolate cake is so decadent, it has gained the nickname “The Matilda Cake” because it looks just like the cake eaten by Bruce Bogtrotter in the movie Matilda. And I’ll take that as a compliment! This cake really is the chocolate cake of my dreams. Ingredient Notes All-Purpose Flour:The main structural component. It provides the cake’s texture and body. Unsweetened Cocoa Powder: We recommend Hershey’s cocoa powder as it’s widely available. You can also use higher-quality options like Ghirardelli or those from specialty chocolatiers, though they may be more expensive. Baking Soda & Powder: Check the expiration date to ensure proper leavening. Granulated Sugar: Stick with standard granulated sugar for best results. Buttermilk: Adds moisture and a slight tang to balance the sweetness. Warm it in the microwave for 20-30 seconds to bring it to room temperature quickly. Eggs: Room-temperature eggs make for a fluffier cake. To warm eggs quickly, submerge them in a bowl of warm water for 5 minutes. Vegetable Oil: Provides essential moisture for the softest cake texture. Vanilla Extract: Use a full tablespoon to bring out the bold vanilla flavor. Opt for pure vanilla extract if possible for the best results. Types of Cocoa Powder Cocoa powder is an important ingredient in many baked goods and can affect the flavor and texture of the final product. It is important to use the type of cocoa powder specified in a recipe, as using the wrong type can alter the balance of flavors and sweetness. There are several types of cocoa powder available, each with its own distinct flavor and properties. Unsweetened cocoa powder, specifically Hershey’s brand, was used in this cake recipe as it is the most widely available. You can also use higher-quality cocoa powders such as Ghirardelli or those from specialty chocolatier shops, but they can be expensive. It is recommended to avoid using inexpensive store brands as they tend to not produce the best results. Dutch-process cocoa powder is a type of cocoa that has been treated with an alkali to neutralize its acidity. It has a milder flavor and darker color than natural cocoa powder, and is also easier to dissolve in liquids. When using dutch-process cocoa powder in place of unsweetened cocoa powder in a recipe, it is important to consider that it may behave differently due to its lower acidity. However, in this recipe, dutch-process cocoa can be used without making any other modifications. *For the dark-colored frosting in these photos, Hershey’s Special Dark Unsweetened Cocoa Powder was used. Pan Size Adaptions This chocolate cake recipe yields approximately 9 cups of batter total, or 3 cups for each of the 9-inch layers. Here are some popular pan sizes and the approximate amount of batter needed for each individual pan: 9×2-inch round pan: 3 cups batter 8×2-inch round pan: 2 1/4 cups batter 13×18-inch sheet cake pan: 6 cups batter 9×13-inch pan: 6 cups batter 12 standard cupcakes: 3 cups batter 10-12 cup bundt cake pan: 8 cups batter As a general rule, cake pans should be filled 2/3rds of the way full for cake baking, unless otherwise specified in the recipe. It’s always a good idea to check for doneness by inserting a toothpick or cake tester into the center of the cake. If it comes out clean or with just a few crumbs attached, the cake is likely done. You can also gently press the center of the cake with your finger – if it springs back, it is probably ready to be removed from the oven. Frosting Options Chocolate Ganache: Only 2 ingredients—chocolate and heavy cream. It’s often used as icing or as a filling. Some chefs even use it as a dipping sauce paired with fruit like strawberries. You’ll also see it on donuts and cupcakes. It’s rich, thick, and sweet. Chocolate Fudge Icing: Icing is often used interchangeably with frosting. Frosting does tend to be a bit thicker, while icing is usually smoother and easier to spread than frosting. This cooked chocolate icing is made with buttermilk, which thickens it up and gives a slight tart taste. Buttercream Frosting: Buttercream is our go-to frosting for most cakes, and it’s pretty easy to see why once you’ve tried it. It is perfectly sweet and creamy, and tastes fantastic. We can eat this stuff by the spoonful, however, we promise it is even better on top of a cake or cupcakes.  Cream Cheese Frosting: This frosting is creamy, thick, and has a slight tang. Simply add cocoa powder for a chocolate version. Pistachio Buttercream Frosting: This frosting has a smooth, buttery consistency with a slight crunch from the blended pistachio nuts. This frosting pairs so well with chocolate cake. Think Dubai chocolate bar—the combination can’t be beat. Sweetened Condensed Milk Frosting: A simple and easy way to make a creamy, sweet frosting. Whether you are making chocolate or vanilla frosting, it only takes 3 ingredients! Even Layers Like a Pro Weigh the Batter: Use a kitchen scale to divide the batter equally between the pans. Weigh the empty pans first, then weigh them again with the batter to ensure they’re evenly distributed. Level the Batter: Once the batter is in the pans, gently tap each pan on the counter to release any air bubbles and even out the surface. Trim After Baking: After the cakes are fully cooled, use a serrated knife or a cake leveler to trim any domed tops. This step ensures a flat surface for stacking. Use Baking Strips: Baking strips wrapped around the outside of the pans can help prevent doming and create more uniform layers. Storage Instructions Store the assembled cake in an airtight container or cake dome at room temperature for up to 2 days. For cream cheese or perishable frostings, store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Freeze Unfrosted Layers: After wrapping in plastic wrap, add a layer of aluminum foil to prevent freezer burn. Label with the date and freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before decorating. Freeze Frosted Cakes: Freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet until solid, then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and aluminum foil. Store for up to 2 months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before serving. More decadent chocolate desserts… Source link

[shelyold]

Most vegetable gardens are filled with annual vegetables that are started from seed or seedlings each and every year. After harvest, the soil is turned, and the whole process begins again the next year. Why not add a few perennial crops to the mix? Planting perennial vegetables means you can enjoy their yield year after year without replanting, and because perennials often produce at different times than annuals, having both in the garden extends the harvest. When it comes to making a more resilient, self-sufficient garden, the fewer annuals, the better. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love to plant my lettuce and other veggie staples or my container gardens full of ornamental flowers and bulbs. But a good chunk of my garden was perennials. I’m in the midst of designing my new garden, and I know that I’m going in with the mindset of creating an urban food forest. Food forests are a selection of carefully curated plants that seek to mimic a natural forest ecosystem to produce as much food and materials as possible. Ideally, everything in my garden will be multi-purpose. All of my ornamentals will be medicinal or culinary (maybe with a few exceptions. I love my bulbs!). The vegetable garden is notorious for taking the most amount of effort, resources, and space in a lot of gardens. But when you combine practices like food forests, succession planting, and perennial vegetables, your garden becomes a little powerhouse with very little effort on your part. Get inspired with this list of perennial vegetables! Sunchokes have a taste similar to an artichoke mixed with a water chestnut. 24 Perennial Vegetables These are some of the most tried and true perennial vegetables you can find on the market. While some may not be as easy to source as annual vegetables, they’re well worth the effort since they’ll come back year after year. 1. Artichoke Cynara scolymus  Zones 7-11 Artichokes are beautiful and decorative in the garden and a must-have for the perennial vegetable garden. Plus, they produce for up to five years! Give them plenty of space when planting them because they can get very large when they mature – up to four feet tall and four feet wide. Artichokes like full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. Growing them as perennials requires good quality soil with drainage to keep the roots from rotting, especially during the winter. Artichokes need lots of moisture for the buds to develop. Make sure to water them frequently in the absence of rainfall. Artichokes take two years to flower. Harvest artichokes when they feel firm and have a diameter of at least three inches. Store the harvest in the fridge and eat them within two weeks. Artichokes you do not harvest will open and produce stunning purple flowers. To overwinter artichokes, cut back the plants and cover them with thick mulch. Artichokes can easily be edible ornamentals due to the stunning purple flower it produces when left unharvested. 2. Asparagus Asparagus officinalis Zones 3-10 Asparagus crowns need a few years to become productive after initial planting, but it is worth the wait as asparagus will keep coming back for up to thirty years. Nothing tastes quite like fresh asparagus from the garden. You don’t even need to cook it; you can snap it, eat it, and revel in its deliciousness. Asparagus can be tricky to start, so you want to give them the best conditions possible. Plant them somewhere with 8 hours of full sun in well-draining soil. Weed frequently and give asparagus its own bed without any other vegetables growing in it because it gets choked by other plants easily. Don’t harvest asparagus for the first three years. Harvest spears by snapping them off at the bottom when they reach five to seven inches tall. 3. Bamboo Shoots Popular in many Asian dishes and soups, bamboo shoots come from edible bamboo species such as Bambusa vulgaris and Phyllostachys edulis. The genus Phyllostachys is generally a good choice, as they’re cold-hardy and produce plenty of good shoots for eating. It’s not difficult to grow bamboo. They like lots of moisture and a sunny location. With fertile soil, no extra fertilizer is needed. Bamboo shoots will emerge from the ground, almost like asparagus. They’re tender and tend to grow in the spring. They should be cut and harvested right when they emerge from the ground and are less than 6 inches tall. The younger the shoot, the better it will taste! Detach the shoots from the root system with sharp pruners. Peel the outer leaves of the shoot until you get to the soft white, edible interior. Bamboo can be infamous for getting out of control. You must actively control the bamboo or grow it in containers to ensure it doesn’t choke out other plants. But, if you keep harvesting the shoots as they’re meant to be eaten, you’ll do just fine. 4. Chicory Cichorium intybus Zones 3-10 Chicory root is often used to produce the inulin you find at the drug store, a fibre supplement that works as a prebiotic. AKA it’s amazing for gut health. Chicory comes from the dandelion family and also has a very long taproot. It has a violet-blue flower that’s also edible. Besides being a great source of fibre, people use chicory as a coffee substitute. To do so, the root is baked and then ground into a powder used to make the drink. Chicory is self-seeding and is the kind of plant that will grow between cracks in the sidewalk—you don’t have to worry much about the growing conditions for the plant. You can plant the seeds in early spring, sowing them just 1/4 inch deep. Once the plants emerge, thin the seedlings about 1 ft apart. Since you’ll eat the plant’s root, you’ll want the soil to be loose for easier harvesting. Mix in sand if you have clay or hard soil. 5. Chinese Artichoke Stachys affinis Zones 4-8 These may be a little harder to find, but if you do, they’re a super easy perennial vegetable to grow. From the mint family, they have a similar appearance but different taste. The part you enjoy eating is the very crisp tubers with a slight artichoke flavour. They’ve grown popular in France, where they’re called crosne. The small tubers have a short shelf life, so they often have a high price tag, which is why it’s a great idea to grow them yourself! Even with the rarity and price behind them, they’re not a difficult perennial vegetable to grow. They like full sun and well-draining soil that’s kept moist. Chinese artichoke can become an invasive species, so be generous in your harvesting to keep them under control. The tubers take 5-7 months to reach maturity, often harvested in the fall once the plant is dormant. 6. Dahlias Dahlia spp. Zones 8-10 What if your perennial vegetables doubled up as gorgeous ornamental flowers?! Most people don’t know that you can actually eat dahlia tubers. The tubers are cooked like a potato, though they’re best peeled since the skin has a bitter taste. Make sure only to eat tubers that haven’t been treated with chemicals. They’re best eaten when you’ve grown them from seed yourself or have come from a trusted, divided plant. I won’t blame you if you want to enjoy these plants solely for their stunning bulbs and not for their edible purposes. You can grow dahlias from seed, but they’re much easier to grow from a tuber. The tubers should be planted no more than two inches deep. As the plant gets bigger, the tubers multiply and allow you to harvest them. Check out my full guide on growing dahlias for more growing trips. Dahlia’s will have lots of tubers that can be broken off and divided. 7. Egyptian Walking Onion Allium proliferum Zones 3-10 A member of the allium family, the Egyptian walking onion has stems in the spring that you can eat like scallions. As they grow, they have tiny bulbs on top that slowly cause the plant to double over with the weight, effectively planting themselves in the ground—or walking, if you will. They multiple quick, and you can easily have a garden full of these onions in a few years. You can eat the bulbs that grow on the top of the flower, dig up the bulbs from the ground, or even eat the stem. There are lots of edible options for this one! If you’re introducing an Egyptian walking onion to your garden, it’s best to plant the bulbs in the fall. Give them a good soak, and let them sit overwinter. Come spring, you’ll have a new onion plant that will start walking and plant itself. You can eat the entire plant, from tiny top bulbs and stem, to the main bulb. 8. Good King Henry Chenopodium bonus-henricus Zones 3-9 Most people use Good King Henry like they would with spinach. The leaves can be cooked or eaten raw, though they are bitter when left raw. The thin shoots that emerge in spring can also be eaten like you would asparagus. In early spring, you can also eat the thick shoots. Yes, another plant that is cut and grows like asparagus! The flower buds that emerge in the spring and summer can also be eaten. You can grow Good King Henry from seed, but they take a little to germinate. Cold stratification in the refrigerator or a container outdoors can help. Once planted in the garden, give them three years to establish themselves before you begin harvesting from the plant. 9. Horseradish Armoracia rusticana Zones 4-8 I’m sure you’re familiar with the kick of horseradish sauce for dipping and alongside some of your favourite dinners. It’s a member of the mustard family and has a similar spice. Horseradish has a white taproot that grows in the ground, much like a carrot. When you grow them in the garden, they can get very spicy. Depending on your taste buds, this can be good or bad. Horseradish doesn’t mind full sun to partial shade, though it should get some protection from prolonged heat. It needs 3-5 feet of space to be grown as a perennial. Horseradish can become quite invasive, so you can eat as many of the roots and leaves as you like, and it will quickly grow back. The roots are ready to harvest by the fall. 10. Lovage Levisticum officinale Zones Although lovage looks more like celery, it is a member of the carrot family. Every part of this plant can be eaten. The leaves make a tasty herb (try it in place of parsley), the root can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable, and you can use the stems as you would celery. Just a little lovage goes a long way; it’s both flavourful and prolific. You will only need to plant one in your garden. You can grow lovage from seed. Direct sow them by scattering the seeds on top of the soil after the risk of frost has passed or starting them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date. Plant lovage in partial sun to full sun in well-draining, rich soil. Keep the soil moist, as the leaves can develop a bitter taste if the plant dries out. 11. Nettle Urtica dioica Zones 4-10 For many, nettle is a weed and plant you might want to avoid due to its sting. But it’s actually a very nutritious plant that has a great, mild flavour when you harvest it young. It is one of the highest sources of minerals in edible plants and is a secret super green you won’t find at the grocery store. So let’s grow it ourselves, shall we? Nettle works as a soil fixer, so it can grow in just about any soil. You can easily grow it from seed, planting it in spring. Nettle ideally likes moist, shady places. If you’re worried about harvesting and eating the nettle, the sting disappears once the plant has wilted. I have a full herbal guide on why nettle is so amazing to eat and how to harvest it. Harvest nettle while wearing thick gloves to avoid the sting. 12. Oca Oxalis tuberosa Zones 9-10 I featured this vegetable in my post about great plants for climate change, as this is a perennial vegetable not well known in North America. However, it grows exceptionally well in the Pacific Northwest. Native to South America, the tubers are very popular in the Andean region and are used like potatoes. When raw, they’ve got a crunch, and when boiled, they become super starchy. You can grow Oca from seed or tubers. If grown from seed, you must start them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost as they need a long growing period. Growing from the tuber is a good way to grow them, as you can choose the large, strong tubers to reproduce. Plant the Oca tubers after the last frost. They’ll grow in the spring and fall, slowing down in the summer heat. You can harvest them in the late fall once the plant springs back and begins to die back for the winter. 13. Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads Matteuccia struthiopteris Zones 2-7 When it’s fiddlehead season, you can’t escape it on Instagram. People love to go out and forage for these young and tender shoots in the spring. First things first, make sure you have the right type of fern when eating! Ostrich ferns are the ones most grown for edible purposes. Once cooked, the fiddleheads are crisp and slightly nutty in flavour. They look like a tight spiral coil and should be harvested when a few inches tall. They emerge in spring after the threat of frost has passed. The season for harvesting is short, typically only a couple of weeks. Ostrich ferns like partial to full shade and moist soil. They should never be dried out, as they grow in moist and humid places. Harvest only from plants with at least four fiddleheads; take no more than half of the fiddleheads available. This gives the plant enough leaves to gather energy for the growing season. 14. Perennial Kale Brassica oleracea var ramosa Zones 6-9 Perennial kale also goes by the name of tree kale or tree collards. If you love kale, this perennial edition has purplish leaves that can be used in salads and cooking. Growing these plants from cuttings purchased at the garden centre rather than seeds is typically best. You can continue your own supply by taking cuttings from the outer stems. The plant likes full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Perennial kale gets quite big, up to 8 ft. tall, so take this into consideration when planting. You can add in a trellis to help support the plant when it gets this big. The plant produces year-round for about five years, so you’ll have quite a supply of greens. 15. Potatoes Solanum tuberosum Zones 8-12 (as perennials) If you do it right and live in a warm climate, your trusty, hardy potato can be a perennial vegetable. Often, they’ll grow back if you don’t harvest them, but that’s not always the case. Now, you can purchase specifically perennial potatoes from a US breeder, such as ‘Purple Ease’. Otherwise, most potatoes die when the ground freezes. Or, some might enter a period of dormancy. You might forget (wink wink) about a potato or two and be pleasantly surprised when a new plant forms without lifting a thumb. 16. Purple Sprouting Broccoli Brassica oleracea var. italica Zones 6-9 Purple sprouting broccoli is a perennial vegetable in mild climates but can do well in colder climates if it gets lots of sun and is planted in fertile, well-draining soil. The tops look similar to broccoli florets but are purple in colour and aren’t quite as big. They are ready for harvest at the end of summer through to the end of fall. To grow purple sprouting broccoli, start them as seeds early on indoors to give them plenty of time since they’re slow growers. For the plant to succeed as a perennial, you may need to give them some frost protection and a layer of mulch in the winter. 17. Radicchio Cichorium intybus var. foliosum Zones 8-10 You’ve definitely seen Radicchio at the grocery store before! I love its bright purple, burgundy colour. Due to its shape and colour, it’s often mistaken for red cabbage. But they do have a very different taste and have much smaller heads. A variety of chicory, radicchio has a pretty bitter taste that gets much sweeter once cooked. You can grow them from seed, direct sowing them as soon as the ground can be worked. You can succession plant them as well in the first season (or as an annual) in mid-summer. Harvest the leaves once they are large enough to eat. By early fall, cut off all the leaves above the crown. The new growth will result in the tiny, cabbage-like head you would find at the grocery store. 18. Rhubarb Rheum rhabarbarum Zones 3-8 Plant rhubarb in your garden and you will be rewarded with a ton of scrumptious pies, muffins, compotes, and crumbles (or how about delicious rhubarb sorbet?). Rhubarb requires almost no attention once it’s planted and will come back year after year. This makes it one of the most popular and well-known perennial vegetables. Removing the flowers as they appear will produce more edible stems, so be vigilant and pluck the blossoms. To promote growth, do not pick all of the stalks at once. Harvest up to one-third of the plant at a time by twisting and snapping the stems off at their base. For more growth tips on rhubarb, check out my full rhubarb growing guide. Rhubarb is one of the first vegetables to spring up for an early harvest. 19. Scarlet Runner Bean Phaseolus coccineus Zones 7-11 In those lucky places with no frost, you can anticipate that your scarlet runner beans will return each year. Most of us grow them as annuals without realizing that they can be a short-lived perennial in the right warm climate. The same plant can return for up to 6 years. In the summer, they have beautiful red flowers, doubling up as an ornamental. The flowers and leaves are edible, as well as the large green or purple beans. You can eat them fresh or dry them for soups in the winter. Plant the seeds in an area with lots of sun, well-draining soil, and away from onions (they don’t like each other). When planted as annuals, wait until the threat of frost has passed. 20. Skirret Sium sisarum Zones 5-9 If you like carrots, you’ll like skirret. This European favourite has roots that taste similar to carrots with a distinct sweetness and are starchy, like potatoes. But unlike carrots, it only needs to be boiled or fried for a few minutes to be fully cooked. Skirret grows in clumps, so it’s easy to produce more of the plant by dividing plants. Either find an existing clump to divide and plant or grow it from seed. Plant it in full sun and fertile soil. Otherwise, the roots will be thin and not worth harvesting. In the fall, you can harvest the clumped crowns and plant some of the divided crowns back in for the following year. 21. Sorrel Rumex acetosa Zones 4-9 Many people mistake sorrel for clover, though it has much larger leaves. Call it a herb or call it a perennial vegetable—it’s edible and easy to grow. Three types of sorrel can be grown for edible reasons: Garden sorrel, Rumex acetosa French sorrel, Rumex scutatus Red-veined sorrel, Rumex sanguineus Garden sorrel has a slight citrus flavour, and it works well added raw to salads or stewed up in a soup. You can grow garden sorrel by seed or by dividing an existing clump in the summer (ask a neighbour!). They like full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. The plant self-seeds and can be invasive, so trim any flowers to keep them under control. Unless you want more sorrel! 22. Sunchokes Helianthus tuberosus Zones 3-8 Sunchokes, also known as Jerusalem artichokes, have an edible tuber that tastes like a water chestnut crossed with an artichoke. They grow five to ten feet tall and, while a wonderful vegetable to have on hand, they can be invasive—make sure to give sunchokes their own bed, or they will take over the whole garden. As far as perennial vegetables go, these guys are pretty hands-off. They’ll keep on reproducing and multiplying all on their own. Just make sure to leave behind some of the big ones so they come back the following spring. Remove flowers as they develop to promote tuber production. Tubers keep up to 5 months stored in a moist, cool place. Just a word of caution! Eat too many sunchokes at once, and you might get a stomach ache. When eaten raw, they can give you lots of gas and bloating. Also known as wild sunflowers, sunchokes are a sunflower species from North America. 23. Watercress Nasturtium officinale Zones 2-10 Many different climates can grow watercress, making it an easy addition to the perennial vegetable garden. From the brassica family, this green loves a wet climate as they’re semi-aquatic. You can actually grow them in containers that stay constantly moist or in flowing water. If you have a corner of your garden that lacks good drainage, watercress may be the solution for you. Barely cover the seeds when planting. You can plant them nearly any time of the year, even in pans of water. The leaves have a peppery taste, like mustard. Once the plant flowers (small and white), the leaves become bitter, so be warned! 24. Wild Leeks Allium tricoccum Zones 3-7 Also known as ramps, wild leeks are perfect for foragers in North America. Ideal for woodland gardens, they grow in dappled shade and often spread through little bullets. They may look like a regular leek but have a taste similar to garlic. You can eat the little white bulbs, but the real reason to grow them is for their leaves. You can use them like green onions or as sauteed greens. If you eat the bulbs, you might lose the perennial vegetable altogether! Wild leeks take some time to get established. For this same reason, they’re best to grow from transplants or bulbs as the seeds take a long time to germinate and then reach maturity. Perennial Berries Don’t just stop at the perennial vegetables. A big part of growing food also comes from the trees and shrubs you plant. Here are some perennial berries that you can expect to produce every year with little input from you. Ground cherries grow low to the ground and have a papery coating known as a calyx. Perennial Fruit and Nut Trees Flowering in the spring, fruit and nut trees are one of the best ways to support pollinators early in the season. Then, you get to enjoy the literal fruits of their labour when all the fruit and nuts come to maturity. Apricot Cherry Apple Peach Pear Plum Kiwi Mulberry Quince Grapes Lemon Fig Walnut Chestnut Hazelnut Pecan Almond Figs have a short shelf-life, so growing them yourself is one of the only ways to enjoy them fresh. Perennial Herbs Yes, many herbs are perennial! You can check out this list to determine which herbs are okay to grow in your zone, but here are some favourite herbs that grow as perennials in most climates. Frequently Asked Questions About Perennial Vegetables Are there any perennial greens? So many of the perennial vegetables on this list are considered greens, like nettles, perennial kale, watercress, sorrel, and Good King Henry, among many others. Are tomatoes perennial? No, tomatoes are not perennials; the plants will not come from the same seed the following year. However, if you let a few of your tomatoes drop to the ground, you might have some new tomatoes seed themselves. What are edible perennial plants? A perennial plant lives for more than two years. They may die back in the winter but come back the following spring from the same roots, tuber, or bulb. Meanwhile, an annual will germinate, flower, fruit, and die all in one season. So many more plants could be added to this list of perennial vegetables and edible plants. Just remember to think outside of the grocery store. See what’s available at farmer’s markets, international grocery stores, and even what your neighbour grows. There’s a whole world of edible perennial plants out there! More Ideas for the Vegetable Garden A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

[shelyold]

Visiting hummingbirds are one of the greatest garden delights. The sound of their wings, the speed of their movements, the shimmer of their feathers – all this makes them a highly attractive garden guest. Invite them to your garden with this hummingbird food recipe. A month after my mother passed away, a hummingbird came up to me when I was in the garden. She came close to my face and fluttered in place while looking directly into my eyes. She was probably a foot away from me and stayed there for a minute or more. I was frozen. I felt like she was looking at me and trying to tell me something. Or perhaps she was looking at me gardening the way we, humans, look at animals in their natural habitat. I said hello and watched her for a while before she darted off to a tree. Some folks have said that it could have been my mother coming to check on me. She sure loved hummingbirds and fed them all year long. She would have been delighted to take the form of a hummingbird. More likely, this sweet little creature was just checking me out and possibly demanding that I go clean the feeder! Today’s hummingbird food recipe comes from my book, Garden Alchemy. It is one of over 80 recipes for the garden, including recipes for soil, fertilizer, compost, and more projects to encourage backyard wildlife. Find the book in your country and grow organically! This post will cover… Hummingbirds beat their wings 60 to 80 times per second. Anna’s Hummingbird Hummingbirds are everywhere in my city, Vancouver. In fact, the Anna’s Hummingbird is the official bird of the city. They have emerald feathers and a rose-pink throat, showing off their beauty in the fleeting moments at my feeder. Their houses are so small, you may find them in your potted plants. A hummingbird in snow may not be such a rare sight these days. Due to climate change, the Anna’s Hummingbird has drastically changed their migration patterns. Many are now in Vancouver for the entire winter. Unfortunately, this means the birds have difficulty finding food for the winter. This has led to many people offering hummingbird feeders year-round, including winter feeding. Without flowers and nectar, the feeders are their only source of food. Many hummingbirds rely on feeders during the cold months as a food source. Hummingbird Food Ratio of Water to Sugar Is it okay to feed hummingbirds sugar water? Absolutely! Sugar water is the best and least expensive way to feed hummingbirds in your garden. It acts as an additional source of nectar when there aren’t enough flowers in the area. The ideal sugar/water ratio is 1 to 4. Mix four cups of water for every cup of sugar you add. You can make as big a batch as you would like, refrigerating any leftovers for up to a week. It’s also important to note that while we often hear of sugar alternatives that are better for human consumption, plain white sugar is best for hummingbird food. It should not be replaced with maple syrup, honey, brown sugar, coconut sugar, stevia, or any other sugar substitute. Only use white sugar to make hummingbird food. Hummingbird Food Recipe Hummingbirds are beautiful and a joy to watch in your garden or through the window. If you don’t have enough reasons to love them, they also fill their belly with aphids, mosquitoes, gnats, whiteflies, and insect eggs. Invite them for a sweet cocktail, and they will happily reward you with pest control and silly antics. Here’s how to make hummingbird food! Materials 1 part sugar 4 parts water Make It! Boil your sugar and water together in a pot. Allow the mixture to fully cool before you place it in your feeder. Place any unused hummingbird food in the refrigerator for up to a week. Replace the nectar and clean the feeder once a week when it’s cool and 2-3 times a week when hot. Extra nectar can be stored in the fridge for up to a week Frequently Asked Questions About Hummingbird Food How often do I need to change hummingbird nectar? Frequent cleaning of your hummingbird feeder is essential as a responsible birder. Not cleaning your feeder can make the little birds sick.When it’s hot outside, clean your feeder 2-3 times a week. When it’s cold outside, once a week works fine. For thirsty hummingbirds who finish your feeder before the week is up, clean it every time it is empty.In terms of how you clean it, a good soak in hot water is all you need. Dish soap can leave residue in the feeder that may be harmful to hummingbirds. Is tap water safe for hummingbirds? Yes. Ideally, you will want to use spring water, but tap water works just fine. Don’t use any distilled water in your hummingbird food recipe. Where is the best place to attract hummingbirds? Place your feeder four feet above the ground, ideally in the shade. The shade helps to keep the water from spoiling early and gives hummingbirds a break from the hot afternoon sun. Place the feeder close to other shrubbery so they can quickly go to a hiding space, as they don’t like to be in the open for long.Water should NOT be dyed red. That’s a no-no as it can harm the birds. Hummingbirds need red to attract them, but just the little bit of red I have on my feeder is enough. I started with a red plastic feeder, and they learned that I put out nectar for them. When the food runs out, the hummingbirds sure let me know. They buzz me in the garden or come hang out on the windowsill outside my office until I get my butt out there with new nectar. When should I put out my hummingbird feeder? Hummingbirds migrate due to genetic programming, so don’t fear that your feeders will persuade them to stay too long or come back too early. Put your feeder out approximately a week before they are set to return for the spring and summer. This time differs based on where you are, so check with your local bird club for an exact date.Leave your feeder out as long as the birds are there and drinking from it. Like Vancouver, you may have hummingbirds staying longer than normal in the fall. Keeping a feeder out can help these late migrants or winter dwellers. Always make sure to clean the feeder once a week, even if the hummingbird food is going unused. What is the best flower to attract hummingbirds? Hummingbirds stop to feed every 15 minutes! As you can imagine, they are flitting around all day from flower to flower. When choosing flowers to attract hummingbirds, aim for flowers with long blooming times and bright colours. Red flowers are the most popular. Some flowers they love include: Honeysuckle Bee Balm Fuchsia Firebush Hollyhock Petunias Columbine Cardinal Salvia Lupine Zinnia Salvia ‘Sally Fun’ Hummingbird Feeders When searching for a hummingbird feeder, the first thing you want to look for is one with an ant moat. This prevents the hummingbird food from pooling and dropping, which can attract ants. As I mentioned earlier, having red on your feeder will help attract hummingbirds. You will also want to consider size, ensuring it is not too big for your local population. Otherwise, you will be wasting food when it goes unused and it is time to clean it. Here are some great options: Now that you know how to feed these lovely creatures, you’ll be rewarded with their beauty month after month. Enjoy them! More Ways to Help Pollinators Hummingbird Food Attract hummingbirds to your garden with this sweet and simple nectar cocktail. 1 cup white sugar4 cups water Boil the sugar and water together in a pot and allow it to cool.Fill the feeder with the nectar and replace and clean the feeder every 2 to 3 days in warm weather, once a week in cool weather. Store any leftover nectar in the refrigerator for a week. A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link