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@thiswaycomessomethingwicked Don’t know if you made it to Ajaccio yet, but if you're ever looking for a restaurant, you should try Le P’tit Clos in the rue Laetizia ! Good shit and quiet (without being weird quiet, ya know ?)
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To drink :
@thiswaycomessomethingwicked
Pietra Beer. The Chestnut One™. If you don’t have a fridge, or else are a fan of spontaneous day-drinking on the cheap and you’re in the old town, it’s probably the least expensive for a cold one at the Monoprix in the Cours Napoléon (its between a church and a BNP, the beers are up on the first floor). The Spar at the place du Diamant is a bit less for a warm one, if I remember correctly.
Canto II : In Which We Seek Out Shittier Horizons. Don’t take this one too seriously - these recs are shamelessly shitty and self-profess to be such - but there’s this kiosk thing at the Diamant that sells beer and snacks and stuff, and if you go at the wrong time it can be full of tourists, but the people who work there have some creative musical taste that might be worth a quick listen. Sit out there for an hour and your First Empire Bad Pop playlist will be well-stocked. You might get Elton John, but you might also get, like, Plastic Bertrand or Jean Jacques Goldman, or something worse and in Corsu, or Rick Astley, or anything else. If you wish to pull the strings of the fates, you can usually request songs at your own risks and perils.
Once you’ve left that place, head hanging in shame, lamenting having trusted such a terrible advice, you might try the mirco brasserie Impériale (just not on a sunday or a monday - it’s closed) Best micro brasserie in Ajaccio (being, such as it is, the only micro brasserie in Ajaccio) with a few regular beers and some that change by season. And some graphic design choices that I imagine you will either appreciate or will find so appalling that you’ll have to go somewhere else.
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A shop and some bad directions
@thiswaycomessomethingwicked
A shop you might find amusing is called « Le pas sage » It only sells men’s clothes and a lot is sort of beach stuff, but if that doesn’t bother you, it has some truly ludicrous t-shirts that probably make relatively little sense outside of Corsica, but they’re funny as hell in any case. For example, I have one that’s a sort of bastard mixture between Pascal Paoli and Miami Vice, and another of Napoléon on a bike going to l’Acapulco (R.I.P., c’est pas pareil) 10/10 impeccable, but it’s sort of hard to describe how to get there. It’s in a passage going off of the rue Fesch on the right if you come from the Place Foch (but before you reach the Fesch museum) If you follow the passage all the way down, and cross the perpendicular road in front of you (in which the tourisme office and further down the place Foch will now be to your right), you’ll end up in the rue Bessière (not a typo, there is no « s », I don’t know why). Check it out if you have a moment and fancy looking for very specific joke t-shirts with those horrendous directions.
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Nicer things to do
@thiswaycomessomethingwicked - If you like prehistory you might also visit Cucuruzzu, which is sort of between Ajaccio and Bonifacio, but it’s a bit farther out of the way than Filitosa. Cool site though and certainly worth a visit if you have a car. - You could hire out a boat to go to Scandola (nature reserve). It’s farther north, past Porto, and is really more of an all-day affair, but quite lovely. If you take a small-ish boat you can go in and about the grottos. Might see some dolphins too. I think that you can get there by boat service from the Ajaccio port as well, without having to hire out a private pilot, the boat itself, petrol, etc. (just don’t get on one of the huge ones. Go for something like 12-14 persons.)
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Citadelle d’Ajaccio
@thiswaycomessomethingwicked You can’t visit the inside b/c it’s an active military terrain, but you can walk around part of it, admire from afar, pay your respects to the big ol’ Paoli statue, and sometimes there’s weird shit down in the yard. Today’s offerings : two donkeys, one volleyball, approx. 150 individual pieces of bread.
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Architecture
@thiswaycomessomethingwicked For architecture, I’m pretty sure the église Sainte-Marie in Bonifacio is pisane, but I might be mistaken (I haven’t visited it in forever) - its romanesque architecture at least. If you can support genoese architecture as well, there are the some towers all over the place that were used for surveillance against pirates/invaders. Some near Ajaccio (had to ask for the names from my uncle, so I can’t take full credit for these) are :
Torra di Capu di Fenu - this one’s tiny and ruined, but if you’re going already, why not see this too ? The beach is hella better than St François….
Torra di Castelluchju,
Torra di a Parata
These are both more intact (similar to those in Malta) and are both on the Îles sanguinaires, which would also be cool to visit. Close enough to Ajaccio, but you might want to rent out a boat.
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