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Peach Icebox Pie*

Crust: 1 (11-ounce) box vanilla wafers, divided 1⁄4 cup confectioners’ sugar 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter, melted

Filling: 1 cup sweetened condensed milk 1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice 4 medium peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced (about 2 cups)

For crust: In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse half of wafers into fine crumbs.

Add sugar, pulsing until combined. Gradually add melted butter, pulsing until mixture comes together.

Press mixture into bottom and one-third up sides of a 9-inch pie plate. Line edge of pie plate with half of remaining vanilla wafers. (Reserve remaining wafers for another use.)

For filling: In a large bowl, stir together condensed milk, lemon juice, and peaches.

Pour into prepared crust. Freeze until set, approximately 4 hours.

*lifted and un-baked, with thanks, from The B.T.C. Old-Fashioned Grocery Cookbook by Alexe Van Beuren and Dixie Grimes. It is almost over-the-top sweet, but when served nearly ice cold on a hot-ass high Summer afternoon, it’s next to perfection. That said, don’t serve it frozen from the freezer, let it rest a bit so the peaches aren’t icy chips a knife won’t slice. 

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Fried Green Tomatoes*

1 ½ c buttermilk, and you best not be messing w/ anything low-fat 1 tsp hot sauce 1 tbs plus 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning 1 ½ lbs medium green tomatoes, cored and cut into ½”-thick slices 1 ½ c good quality fine yellow cornmeal ½ c all-purp flour ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 c canola oil (or 1/2 c oil and 1/2 c rendered fresh lard if you can muster it) 1 c chow chow or remoulade, for garnish/serving

Combine the buttermilk, hot sauce, and 1 tsp of the salt in a large bowl. Add the green tomato slices and toss to coat. Let marinate at room temp for 30 mins, occasionally turning the tomatoes to ensure even coating.

Line a rimmed baking sheet w/ parchment paper. Combine the cornmeal, flour and remaining tsp of salt, and pepper in a shallow baking dish. Working with one slice at a time, shake off any excess buttermilk from the tomatoes, dredge in the cornmeal mixture, shake off any excess, and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Transfer the baking sheet to the fridge and let the slices rest for at least 30 mins and up to 2 hours.

Fifteen minutes before frying, remove the tomatoes from the fridge. Preheat the oven to 200F. Line a rimmed baking sheet w/ paper towels.

Combine the canola oil (and lard if using) in a large, deep cast-iron skillet and heat over medium heat to 350F.

Working in batches, without crowding the pan, fry the tomatoes until crispy and golden brown on both sides, about 4 mins; using a fork, carefully turn the tomatoes over halfway through frying to ensure they cook evenly. As they are done, transfer the tomatoes to the prepared baking sheet, season lightly with salt, and keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining slices.

Arrange the fried green tomatoes on a serving plate and accompany with a bowl of chow chow or remoulade.

*Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer, or dinner, or sandwich fillers.

Perfect for when a storm blows thru ravaging your tomato plants and leaving a fair few greenies blown aground.

Mind the resting times; it ain't a quick fix, but it won't wear you out and is a recipe well worth the fuss. Adapted from Sean Brock's SOUTH.

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Tomato Pie*

For the crust: 1 1/4  c all-purp flour 1 tsp sugar 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 c (1 stick) + 1 tbs unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, chilled 1 1/2 tsp apple cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar 1/8 c ice water, plus more as needed

For the pie: 4-6 large tomatoes, such as Hanover or Early Girl (you may end up using all 6 depending on the size of your tomatoes) 1 medium onion (sweet, yellow, red all work well), finely chopped or thinly sliced 1 1/4 cup freshly grated sharp cheddar cheese 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup grated Asiago cheese 1 cup mayonnaise (Duke's preferred) a grip of fresh basil (about 1/2 cup), torn into small-ish pieces Salt and pepper to taste Bread crumbs, if a less-soupy pie is preferred

First make the crust: Whisk the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Using your hands, smash the butter between your palms and fingertips into the flour, creating long, thin, flaky bits. When most of it is incorporated and there are no large chunks remaining, dump the flour mixture onto a work surface.

Combine the vinegar with the ice water and drizzle it over the flour. Using the tips of your fingers run your hands through the flour mixture. Do this a few more times until it all starts coming together.

Using the palms of your hands, start kneading the dough, gathering up any dry bits from the bottom and placing them on the top to be incorporated. You can add maybe 1/2 to 1 tablespoons of water during this process if you feel the dough really needs it, but it should remain on the drier side (it will dehydrate and become more tender as it rests). Too much water is the enemy of a good flaky crust—don’t go overboard.

When you’ve got a shaggy mass of dough (it will not be smooth and it certainly will not be shiny), knead it one or two more times, then pat into a flat disc, about 1 inch thick. Wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours.

This dough can be made up to 4 days ahead, tightly wrapped, and stored in the refrigerator; or made 1 month ahead, tightly wrapped in a resealable plastic bag, and frozen.

Make the pie: slice tomatoes and allow to drain on paper towels for 30 minutes or so. This ensures your pie won't be an excessively soggy mess (don't fret if it turns out a hot mess, it'll be difficult to serve, but still incredibly delicious).

Layer tomato slices in the pie crust by mounting them pretty high in the shell. In between the layers of tomatoes, spread buffer layers of onions, torn basil, a little grated cheese (about 1/4 cup total), and some bread crumbs, if using (breadcrumbs will absorb additional moisture from the tomatoes).

Mix the remainder of the grated cheeses with the mayonnaise and spread on top of the onions. This is like icing a cake as you will want to completely cover the top of the pie and you may need to add a little more mayo or cheeses to get the consistency you want. Fold any piecrust overhang over onto the mayo mixture sealing on all the tomato-y mayo-cheesey goodness. Sprinkle a little extra Parmesan cheese on top if you like as it browns nicely.

Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes or until top of pie is a golden bubbly brown. Cool before slicing if you can stand to wait.

*a longtime house specialty, I’m always tweaking this bitch come Hanover season. This year I baked my first pie (pictured) with Early Girls I grew in my own garden, chasing my homesteader’s fantasy to the fullest realization.

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Lemon Bars*

makes 2 dozen 2-inch squares

Butter for the baking dish

The Crust: 1 (15.25oz) box lemon cake mix 8 tbs (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 large egg

The Filling: ⅓ c lemon crust from above ½ lb cream cheese, at room temp

2 c confectioner’s sugar 1 tsp salt 2 lemons, zested and juiced

Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Preparation: Heat oven to 350F. Grease a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. 

Make the crust: beat together the cake mix, butter, and egg in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a mixing bowl, using a large wooden spoon) ‘til homogenous. Scoop out ⅓ cup of the mixture and reserve for the filling. Dump the rest into the prepared dish and use your hands to press it firmly and evenly over the bottom. 

Make the filling: return the ⅓ c reserved lemon crust to the mixing bowl and paddle it together with the cream cheese ‘til the two have become one. Add the confectioner’s sugar, salt, lemon zest and juice and mix ‘til well combined and smooth, 1 to 2 mins. Use a spatula to spread the filling in an even layer on top of the lemon crust mixture.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, ‘til the top has puffed slightly and is golden brown and beginning to crack. Cool completely.

Cut the lemon bars into 2-inch squares and ust w/ an even snowfall of confectioner’s sugar. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 1 month.

*the most fantastically delicious lemon bars ever, lifted form Christina Tosi (who got it from her mom, or grandma, ...I think). Make haste, make these, give them church ladies whut fer!!!

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Red Hot Applesauce*

Makes 1 quart or so

Ingredients 5 Apples (Gala is good), cored, peeled, & sliced 1/2 cup water or apple juice 6 oz red hots cinnamon candies 1/4 cup granulated sugar

Preparation Place all of the ingredients into a large saucepan. Stir to get the sugar mixed in. Turn the heat onto medium and place a lid on the saucepan.

Let it boil until the apples become very soft and the candies are completely melted, about 25 minutes.

Once the apples are very soft and the candies are melted, remove from the heat and let cool for about 30 minutes.

If you prefer a chunkier applesauce, mash in the pot on the stove with a potato masher. Otherwise place the apple mixture into a food processor and process on high until the applesauce is as smooth as you like.

Place in a quart jar and refrigerate until chilled. Or can using a boiling-water bath process jars for shelf-stability—will keep for up to 6 months.  

*a very re:memories-of-childhood recipe; tastes real good ‘n’ icy-hot chilled when eaten after refrigerated :)

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Pumpkin Muffins*

Serves 12

Ingredients 1¾ cups all purpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 large eggs 1 (15 oz) can pure pumpkin puree ½ cup coconut oil, melted 1 tablespoon whole milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preparation Preheat oven to 375° F. Line a muffin pan with paper liners or grease with nonstick spray. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and spices. Whisk to combine and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the eggs, pumpkin puree, coconut oil, milk, and vanilla extract. Whisk to combine. Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients and fold to combine. The batter will be thick.

Using an ice cream scoop, or two spoons, plop the batter into the prepared muffin pan.

Bake for 22-24 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Let cool for at least 5 minutes before removing the muffins from the pan. Serve.

*this recipe comes from a pre-Christmas, long weekend visit with the Acker family at their Ben Lomond abode during Christmas 2018 during which times these muffins were made hastily, batch after batch, in an attempt to satisfy the holiday hanger of many.

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Pimento Cheese*

makes enough for a party

Ingredients 6-7 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, shredded 6-7 oz. aged, extra sharp white cheddar cheese, shredded 2 garlic cloves, minced ¼ white or yellow onion, finely chopped A few dashes of Worcestershire sauce ¼ tsp cayenne pepper (or more, to taste) ½ cup mayonnaise 1 4-oz. jar of pimentos, drained, juice reserved Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

Preparation In a large bowl, stir to combine cheeses, garlic, onion, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper, and mayonnaise. Stir in pimentos and add a little of the reserved juice if you crave a creamier texture. You can dash-in a bit o’ hot sauce at this stage if you wanna crank it. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with pecans and/or more cayenne pepper for added kapow factor.  

Store in an airtight jar or a large container in the fridge, keeps for a week. Serve with bread n’ butter pickle chips and crackers—great for puttin’ on the Ritz.  Riffs: mix in some diced pickled cukes, zukes, okra, peppers, or a splash of pickle juice to adjust for your preferred heat, sweet, and sour flavor indicators.  

*this is what I take to a lot of functions, in the photo it’s humbly dressed for a Christmas party. 

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Spiced Pear Upside-Down Cake*

8 Servings

Make sure the cake pan you’re using is at least 2" deep; the batter will rise to the very top while baking and will overflow in a shallow pan.

Ingredients 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for pan 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice ¼ cup pomegranate molasses, plus more for serving (homemade recipe follows) 1¾ cups sugar, divided 4 small ripe Bosc pears (about 1½ pounds), peeled, halved lengthwise, cored 1 cup unsalted, roasted walnuts 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom 4 large eggs 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 1 cup olive oil

Preparation Preheat oven to 350˚. Butter a 10"-diameter cake pan and line bottom with a parchment paper round; flour sides of pan. Cook orange juice, ¼ cup pomegranate molasses, ¼ cup sugar, and remaining 2 Tbsp. butter in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved and mixture is slightly reduced, about 4 minutes. Add pears, cut side up, and cook (undisturbed) until they begin to release their juices, about 3 minutes. Turn pears over and cook just until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Let cool slightly, then arrange pears, cut side down, in prepared pan.

Return skillet to medium heat and cook liquid in skillet until thickened and syrupy, about 5 minutes, depending on juiciness of pears. Pour syrup over pears and freeze while you prepare the batter (this is to allow syrup to set up—don’t let it freeze solid).

Pulse walnuts and remaining 1½ cups flour in food processor until walnuts are finely ground. Pulse in baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cardamom.

Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat eggs, orange zest, and remaining 1½ cups sugar in a medium bowl until pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Fold in dry ingredients in 2 additions, fully incorporating before adding the next addition, then gradually mix in oil. Pour batter over pears and smooth top.

Set pan on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake cake until top is golden brown and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 50–60 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in pan, 15–20 minutes. Run knife around edges of cake to loosen and invert onto rack. Remove parchment and let cake cool completely.

Drizzle cake with more pomegranate molasses just before serving.

Do Ahead: Cake can be baked 1 day ahead. Store tightly covered at room temperature.

Pomegranate Molasses

Cook time: 1 hour

Ingredients 4 cups 100% pomegranate juice 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Preparation Heat pomegranate juice, sugar, lemon to a simmer: In a large, wide, uncovered saucepan, heat pomegranate juice, sugar, and lemon juice on medium high until the sugar has dissolved and the juice simmers. Reduce heat just enough to maintain a simmer.

Reduce to a syrup: Simmer for about an hour, or until the juice has a syrupy consistency, and has reduced to 1 to 1 1/4 cups. If you want your pomegranate molasses to be sweeter, add more sugar to taste, while you are cooking it.

To store, pour out into a jar and let cool. Store chilled in the refrigerator for up to one week.

*recipe lifted from a "spooky" themed spread in an Autumn issue of Bon Appetite some years ago, I love it so much! I never could find pom molasses in a store near me, but I did find 100% pom juice; it's worth rendering juice to molasses to complete the upside-down cake and make your kitchen smell like heaven.

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Praline Pecan Pumpkin Pie*

~MAKES 2 PIES~

Ingredients Pie filling: 10” pastry pie shell 2 eggs, beaten 3 cups pumpkin 12 oz. evaporated milk 1 cup sugar ¼ cup all purpose flour 1 tsp vanilla ½ tsp salt ½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ginger ½ tsp allspice ½ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp nutmeg

Topping: ¼ cup melted butter ½ cup all purpose flour ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup chopped pecans

Preparation

Preheat oven 400F.

In a large, deep bowl combine eggs, 1c. Sugar, ¼ c. flour, pumpkin, milk, vanilla, salt, and spices. Blend well (I like to use an immersion blender and mix until frothy). Pour into pastry shell.

Bake at 400F for ten minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and bake for another 35 minutes.

Make the topping: in a medium bowl combine butter, flour, and brown sugar, then stir in pecans. Sprinkle on pie. Bake at 350F for another ten minutes.

*From “the pie lady": “No whip cream needed”

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Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookies*

Needs:

½ lb (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and just warm to the touch ¾ c packed light brown sugar ½ c granulated sugar 1 egg 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 ¾ c all-purpose flour 2 tbs nonfat milk powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp baking powder  ¼ tsp baking soda 1 c semisweet chocolate chips (like half of one 12oz. bag, or a bit more) ½ c chopped walnuts (more of less as desired)

Do:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

With a wooden spoon, mix the sugars together in a large bowl and add the melted butter. Stir vigorously for about a minute or more. Beat the egg and vanilla together and add to the mixture. Stir until the mix gathers a glossy sheen, about 1 minute.

Mix in the flour, milk powder, salt, baking powder, and baking soda until just combined. Stir in the chocolate chips and walnuts, mix until evenly distributed. If handy, use a #24 squeeze handle scoop to portion the dough (or lightly form into balls about the size of a golf ball) and place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper about 2 to 3 inches apart.

Bake for 9-11 minutes or until golden brown around the edges but still soft in the middle. The cookies will fall as they cool. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely.

*one of the absolute best cooky recipes I have, and I’ve been baking them to no end lately. I adapted this recipe from one set down by legendary bakemaster Christina Tosi, necessitated by a dear family member’s addiction to the once plentiful (now discontinued?) ready-to-bake tubes of chocolate chip walnut cookie dough. (Once the batter is prepared, you can form your own cookie dough tube(s), wrap in plastic like Laura Palmer, and store in the fridge or freezer ‘til the craving hits, whereupon you slice some up and bake as needed.) Throw a little flaky salt on top and these are a tried ‘n true bake-off ringer. 

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Gumbo*

Needs:

For the roux: 1 cup + 1 tbs all-purpose flour 1 cup vegetable oil [note: corn oil or bacon grease or Crisco also works]

For the stock: 1  small whole chicken 1 medium onion, peeled and rough chopped 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 6 celery ribs, rough chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and rough chopped 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon whole peppercorns 6 bay leaves

For the gumbo: 3 tablespoon vegetable oil or canola oil or peanut oil or lard 1 lb. andouille sausage, cut into ¼” wide half-moons 2 tablespoons dried thyme 6 bay leaves 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced 8 celery ribs, peeled and diced 2 green bell peppers, diced reserved chicken, shredded into medium pieces reserved stock 1 ½ cups dark roux (more or less, as desired) 1 lb. fresh okra, sliced, blanched, drained and rinsed really well (frozen is okay)

jasmine rice, steamed (just make a whole pot) 3 stalks green onions or scallions, chopped

Make roux: "making a good roux is actually extremely easy if you have some patience and are not a total coward in the kitchen." - Brenda Buenviaje

Heat the oil or lard in a large cast iron skillet or dutch oven over medium heat. Once the oil has warmed, sprinkle and whisk the flour in gradually to incorporate evenly, break up any lumps, and get a little toast on the flour from the start. After you evenly distribute the flour into the oil/melted fat with a whisk, switch to a flat bottomed wooden spoon to help keep the roux from sticking to the bottom of the pot while cooking and stirring. Reduce heat to low and keep stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to keep any flour from burning. It takes at least an hour of cooking and fussing stirring to develop a really rich and dark color (this is where the comforts of good music, booze, and a few good friends come in handy).

Do not leave pot unattended! If you must, turn off the flame, stir for a few minutes to cool down and come right back. If you burn it or if it splits (and you'll know for sure), throw that mess out and start over—there is no saving it.

Never taste your roux while cooking it, treat it like liquid napalm. You'll know your roux is done when its hue has darkened from pasty vanilla latte into a rich, dark walnut.

Make stock: Throw everything into a large, six-quart pot and cover with one gallon cold water. Bring to a boil then lower heat to barely a simmer.  Let cook uncovered for three hours. Strain stock and remove chicken from bones. Set chicken aside.

Make gumbo: Into the same pot that you cooked the stock in add the oil, sausage, thyme and bay leaf. Cook over medium heat until the sausage is browned. Add garlic and onions and cook for 5 minutes more. Add celery, bell pepper and chicken and cook another 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and bring to low boil. Stir your roux into the boiling stock and cook to your desired thickness. Finally, add the okra and simmer for about 10 minutes more.

Serve with a plop of long grain rice (like jasmine—the smell of steaming jasmine rice mingling with a pot bubbling gumbo is fucking heavenly) and garnish with chopped green onions.

*Making gumbo for Mardi Gras has become a tradition in my kitchen. I like to pump up some funky old New Orleans tunes on the hi-fi and take my time prepping and stirring my celebrations to a low, slow simmer (punctuated by sazerac sssips). My recipe isn’t mine at all—I ripped it from Chef Brenda “How’s Ya Gumbo?” Buenviaje of Brenda's French Soul Food in SF and hope I do it justice every time I commit to making it, especially the crucial first phase: making a dark roux (I try my best to not be a "total coward"). I usually spread the steps out over two or three days depending on how much spare time I have, making the roux on day one, the stock on day two, and, if necessary, bringing it all together on day three.

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Sazerac*

Needs: 1 cube (or ½ tsp sugar) 3-4 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters A splash of water, if preferred (how long do you want your night to last?) 2 ounces rye whiskey A splash of Herbsaint (or Pernod) Lemon peel Ice

Do: In another glass (a 16oz canning jar or small glass pitcher), add the sugar cube and soak it with Peychaud’s. Marvel, briefly, as the sugar cube and bitters combine like some kind of grade school science experiment, then add water if desired. Muddle until sugar is completely dissolved. Add rye whiskey, fill with ice, and stir well, about 15 seconds.

Discard ice from your chilled serving glass, then add Herbsaint. Holding the glass at an almost horizontal angle, turn it so that Herbsaint completely coats the interior. Pour any any excess into the rye mixture (waste NOT). Strain rye mixture into chilled glass. Twist lemon peel directly over drink to release its essence, giving a peel a tour around the lip of the glass before finally dropping the spent peel into the drink …et laissez les bon temps rouler!

*House rule: always stock key ingredients for making a proper Sazerac à la maison. This could also be said for a handful of other cocktails I consider home bar essentials, but for this, my inaugural post and first attempt at keeping a flavor-type blog so close to the [*throws beads*] beloved bacchanal festivities known as Mardi Gras, it feels correct to lay down this law in particular. And, in particular, I like my Sazeracs washed with Herbsaint over Pernod, sweetened with a sugar cube soaked in Peychaud’s Bitters, garnished with a twist of lemon rubbed around the rim, and starring Rye rather than Bourbon whiskey (as it has long been written; contrary to the gang pictured above featuring a stand-in bottle of Bulliet Bourbon belonging to an beloved old roommate who has celebrated endless desperate times with a bottle & me). I don’t mind a little ice in my Sazerac, but the best is a well-stirred and strained cool elixir served in a chilled glass. Make you one!