summer-in-cadiz

[summer-in-cadiz]

Hello from the US! After what I can easily call the best Summer of my life (broken foot and all), we are finally back home... and it is so nice to be back.

The ease of living feels a bit strange. When I was airport chauffeured via wheelchairs, I became quiet and wide-eyed just looking at all the signs in English and overhearing conversations. It’s funny to realize that I felt a bit overwhelmed coming back in the same way I felt overwhelmed when I arrived at Madrid airport back in May. Even cooler is how I understood every Spanish intercom announcement without having to think about translating it. That was such a satisfying feeling.

Our travel journey (from saying goodbye to Barcelona to me ordering cranberry juice and JF ordering ginger ale on the plane to fit our tradition of mixing them) -

I am thrilled with how our adventure rounded out and feel so happy to be with family and at home. There are too many awesome parts of our lives in the US to name them all, but I’ll still try!

- Dad with his joyful, kid-like grin came running up to greet us at the airport. He was funny and kind and gushing in an I-don’t-actually-want-him-to-stop way. He and I talked the whole ride home from Nashville to Chattanooga even though it felt like the middle of the night for me.

- Driving down the interstate there is so much openness and GREEN. Especially on the mountain it feels like seeing a National Park after a Summer of city living. I fall asleep to the loud cicadas and wake up to birds chirping in conversation here.

- The night we arrived, there was a huge, red-tinted Rousseau moon. In recent years, it feels like all the important, really good moments in my life always have that kind of big, hanging full moon like Rousseau’s paintings that my mom and I and great grandma betty loved. It’s like a good luck charm.

- Mom and I spent my first full day back hugging nonstop, watching movies together, laying on the couch, and catching up. It was the most peaceful and relaxed I have felt in a long time, and it still feels a little unreal. Even after months away, we continue to read each other’s minds.

- It didn’t rain much in Spain at all, even though that’s JF and my favorite type of weather. The night I came home, I kept saying ‘I hope it rains tomorrow!’ but it was not in the forecast. It has rained everyday since, and the first time, JF and I both grinned and cheered. Right now the weather is my favorite to wake up to, cloudy and a little gray over everything green.

- Jet lag is making me get up earlier and go to bed earlier, so hopefully that pattern sticks!

- Seeing my cat, Beam, who thankfully after some pouting is once again (mutually, reciprocated certainly) obsessed with me, and my dog, Jude, who ran in circles and then insisted on spooning like he’s a puppy, has been wonderful.

- Hummus and gatorade and sticky fingers!

My family says I seem different and older, and honestly I kind of feel that way too. I feel changed in so many ways but also like I have never before been more myself. I am so excited for this month at home and then adventures in DC. I can’t wait to look back on this blog and be reminded of all those good times in Spain and inspired to explore the world more. Thank you, Spain.

Hasta Luego.

[summer-in-cadiz]

JF’s selfie game has skyrocketed under my tutelage. His duck face (this one is labeled the classy cheekbone iteration) comes so naturally.

Our building has what can best be described as a tower of terror H-elevator. This old school gem gives me, ~the woos~, severe fear and gives JF, the immortal tormentor, a fun new hobby of running down ahead of me and hiding next to the elevator door to whisper in a creepy voice “hello, Stella.” Don’t worry, I was super chill and handled it with coolness I’d say. You can’t lie on a blog.

Here are some snapshots of the city captured while on foot, singular.

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After La Sagrada Familia we had one of the funniest experiences of our trip.

We decided we would scooter farther than usual to visit Park Güell... only to realize after committing that the entire path was ridiculously uphill— Uphill to the point where JF had to push my back to get the scooter to not roll backwards. We were exhausted in the Barcelona heat but laughed nonstop over how comically bad it was that we essentially SUMMITED half of Barcelona, only to see a flight of stairs when we got to Park Güell. Luckily, we found a ramp! After our trek, we did see a worthwhile and incredible view of the city. It was definitely a place to see, and I love the moments when we have received new life stories without even intending to.

[summer-in-cadiz]

JF and I have successfully seen Barcelona (for the first time in our lives, at least!)...

The best part of our airbnb here has been the amazing balcony view above the treetops that shows La Sagrada Familia, some of Gaudi’s mastery and the most visited site in Spain. One afternoon, I sat out there for hours listening to Spanish jazz and the sounds of the city and people watching the locals on balconies across from ours, seeing little snapshots into their worlds. An emphatic man on a phone call, an old woman watching birds and overlooking the street, a young kid and his grandfather passionately watching futbol, or the little gray cat trying to scoot onto the window’s ledge and get a good view, only to be chastised by her owner... it felt like a mosaic of so many subtle things I have come to love about this country. I am going to miss how fascinating and beautiful it is to just exist and observe life here.

Touring La Sagrada Familia was unforgettable. We went in the early morning and saw the light flood in through the stained glass, casting rainbow beams across the entire room. It was chaotic, gorgeous, and seemed to challenge its guests to feel uncomfortable and form an opinion. Most of all, I love how it is still under construction... like an artifact being preserved and discovered all at once.

[summer-in-cadiz]

It is hard to believe we only have three days left before we head back to the States! While I am already feeling second-homesick for Spain, there are so many parts about life in the US that I have a newfound gratitude for and can’t wait to experience. Having things to look forward to softens the sting of saying goodbye a little bit.

Right now we are in Barcelona, and like Valencia, it is so different (albeit wonderful!) from what I had imagined. This city was probably the perfect final location to transition to because it feels like we have left Spain and entered an entirely new country. The street signs are written in the regional language, Catalan, and the whole city has a distinctly different energy to it... kind of cold, aloof... but not necessarily in a bad way. While I had always heard the stereotype that the people here were a little less friendly/more resentful of tourists, our experience has instilled in me the opposite sentiment! Everyone we have spoken to has been remarkably friendly, outgoing, and excited by my desire to speak to them in Spanish.

Our first taxi driver and I spoke for 20+ minutes, and he even pulled out, annotated, and offered us the paper map he keeps in his taxi to give recommendations for more authentic, local spots. His friendliness stuck with me all day. We ate on a street he recommended last night for dinner and LOVED it. JF and I both agreed our charcuterie dinner was the best cheese we had ever had in our lives, and I took it as a sign that we were exactly where we were supposed to be when an accordion player and clarinetist started playing La Vie en Rose. If that wasn’t enough, they then started playing a couple songs from Mamma Mia which felt like a cosmic nod to my mom and Aunt Julie.

Yesterday we checked out La Sagrada Familia and Park Güell... so lots of pics to come on that! I was struck by a few things one remarkably friendly local said yesterday in conversation - even being from Barcelona, he had never been to La Sagrada Familia and always says ‘tomorrow I’ll go.’ It’s really understandable. It made me realize, even in TN or SC, there are so many wonders sometimes so close to home that we lose the perspective to take the time and experience them firsthand. He also said that he really appreciated me communicating with him in Spanish and that the locals want to give you recommendations if you ask them and make an effort. He told us about some of his favorite spots for ‘Thursday night paella,’ and his final remark as we waved goodbye meant “don’t be afraid to ask questions!”

The randomness of connecting with new people in a new places, and asking questions beyond just niceties... to really learn and engage.. is something I definitely want to continue from now on, no matter where I am.

[summer-in-cadiz]

Valencia is amazing and different than we ever expected! Everything we see here feels like an extra little gift because we were not going to visit this location on our original trip. Most interestingly is that the locals speak a different language, Valenciano, and the city (totally unlike Southern Spain or Madrid) does not feel like it is trying to be a traditionally Spanish city at all. The culture here is much more “we are Valencian before we are Spanish,” so it is fascinating to see the more Italian or American cultural influences everywhere.

JF and I have been enjoying local life and thanks to his piggy-backing skills, I even got to SWIM at the beach! It was wonderful, and we were both a little surprised by how well it worked out. I have always felt really drawn to the water and envisioned myself living near the ocean as an adult, but especially after getting accustomed to almost daily beach adventures in Cádiz, I realized how much I had deeply missed it these past few weeks. We were swimming in the Med with a beautiful view of a mountain range to the right, and I was struck by profound recognition... when I broke my foot weeks ago, my mind was instantly clouded by frustration and presumptions of the worst case scenario. Our plans! Our trip! Walking! And yet this week I still swam in the sea in Valencia with my best friend. It reminded me that we never know the good and special stuff coming our way, and if we look for it even in the deceptively cloudy moments, there’s always something nice to find. I’m so glad and thankful we made it here.

We also had the long-awaited PAELLA night!!! Paella originated in Valencia, and JF found the perfect place for us to go and have our official sampling dinner. It was incredible. We both tried the snails served in the shell and cleaned out the huge platter they gave us. On our way into the restaurant, we stopped at a Plaza with a fountain of three nymphs and ducks that is one of the most magical places I have seen in Spain so far. It felt like it had its own theme music, like a place that exists as much in golden-lit stories as reality.

Today, we visited the aquarium here and on the way saw the famous modern architecture buildings all lined up in a row. We both agreed that it felt like we were entering Tomorrowland. The aquarium is the largest in Europe, and especially as someone that had not visited an aquarium in years, I was thrilled by every single exhibit. We had a blast.

Highlight: JF came toe to toe with his nemesis (animal he will not admit he fears)... the beluga whale. I applaud his courage. We also saw a dolphin show & named our favorite one Fran.

Now as we decide where to eat, we are cracking up over his phone’s faulty auto-translate of a menu. The menu titles “accompany the cane” and “you always so croquette” are now go-to joke threats/insults on our voyage. It has been a fabulous day.

Special shoutout to you both- Papa and Gigi- for a fun FaceTime call today :) we love it here but are excited to see family when we get back!

[summer-in-cadiz]

Extra Madrid pics!

Casually strolling past Miguel de Cervantes’ house (on accident!) in Barrio de Las Letras

Every city we go to, I make a photo of the location my phone screensaver. We ran into the building that is my background and got just a tad excited!

Even Spain let’s the inner basic chico shine through at times, Juan FRANcisco.

[summer-in-cadiz]

¡Hasta luego, Madrid!

JF and I had a really amazing time in Madrid. The city was so scooter accessible, and I am still shocked by the beauty of the sites we saw. Plus... I GOT MY CAST OFF. It is such a relief. I still can’t really walk with the boot, but I can easily take showers and lay in bed boot-free. While JF and I were cracking up (and probably making the doctor concerned) over what he calls “the benjamin button situation” comparing my left and right legs now, it is so nice to step (or hop) towards normalcy and be in a state that will eventually allow me to fly home. But oh not yet, Spain!!

Telling people the boot is hot pink. I wanted cheetah print, but JF’s art skills just aren’t on that level yet.

Our final night in Madrid, we went to the Puerta del Sol and came across a huge protest about internet censorship, and even after this strange COVID year, it felt oddly normal to witness so many people hustling and bustling in one place. That’s what the square was designed for.

From there we went to Gran Vía, and my jaw was glued to the ground. This area is supposed to be more like Madrid’s time square, and between the pink sunset and huge, historic buildings, I was in total awe. JF and I kept laughing when we would realize ‘we are really here right now. This is happening.’ Even looking at where we are on a world map still brings a slap-happy and shocked look to my face.

JF through the photo taking process:

While I will be genuinely happy wherever I get placed to study abroad in the Spring for my IB semester, this excursion made me excited by the prospect of it maybe being Madrid. I’ll find out in August!

We got up early the next morning and took a train to Valencia. I love it already & today we will hit the beach! I was explaining my situation ~in Spanish~ to a guy working at a gelato shop last night, and he said JF should just carry me at the beach so I can still go. AND I said that was my plan!! JF was not pleased that I was affirmed by a local in my master plan to be carried from sand to sea but oopsies! When in Valencia💃🤷‍♀️

All jokes aside, JF has been really thoughtful and selfless in helping me navigate, carrying our bags, and checking on how I’m feeling. He doesn’t make me feel like a burden & is a great travel buddy. We just stopped and high fived in the room yesterday over how we are totally ~vibing.~ I am excited for us to see the Med and try Paella this week!

[summer-in-cadiz]

Post-CML Program Reflection

I am so grateful for my amazing experience in Cadiz... a special thanks goes out to the entire CML team and Profa Teel for making this trip happen! It has been life-changing, and I can’t recommend this opportunity enough.

I have never before felt more passionate or excited about improving my Spanish. Speaking the language everyday (and still now as we continue to travel!) has made me realize that throughout my entire adult life, even after I am a student, I want to use my Spanish regularly. When I go back and look at my first blog posts, I am shocked by and happy with how much I feel like I have changed and learned since that first pre-departure post.

I spoke on the phone yesterday with an alumnus of my fraternity with whom I share a significant amount of interests and experiences. She was telling me about all this cool stuff she has done and ignited a fire in me to pursue new global adventures, but what stood out to me most was how each international immersion study experience she had completed had taught her something new. In the same way, I am confident that my Cadiz study abroad will stay with me not only as a memory but as part of who I am from now on!

It will interesting to see how my adjustment going back to the US will be in the coming weeks, but until then, I am thrilled to continue experiencing more that Spain has to offer. We head to Valencia tomorrow! 

[summer-in-cadiz]

In Madrid I use the word “electric” to describe so many amazing things that it’s starting to feel like one of those words you say over and over again until it feels made up. I think what I’m really trying to describe is just this alive, energetic feeling the city gives me. Even during our taxi drive in from atocha, both of us exhausted and ready to crash, I was overcome by this buzzing, happy feeling. I love Madrid.

Here are some pics of us on our train voyage and finally chilling at the hotel post-travel. The hotel gave us these violet candies which are apparently traditional in Madrid, & JF is a big fan. I decidedly dislike them but also can’t stop eating them so no verdict yet :)

While we are not in this location for long (just enough time to visit a new doctor and hopefully get this yeso off!! And onto a boot), we have had a phenomenal time so far. Today, we took advantage of our fully free day and started off by visiting the Prado. We walked around for hours, and JF found his new all-time favorite painting: Landscape at El Pardo mists rising. Looking very cultural and artsy in Madrid - checked off the list.

After the Prado, we grabbed lunch and made our way up the hill to El Retiro park. We were in the park for a bit before police announced it was closed, so we made our way back to the hotel to get some AC on this hot day. When the sun started to set, we got a taxi to the Plaza Mayor and ate paella while looking onto the huge plaza. I’m so happy we got to eat dinner there because it takes me back to my first real night in Spain with my friends, when we started to get to know each other and Spain and begin the adventure! Now I have another fun memory in Plaza Mayor with JF which makes it even better.

We also decided to scooter back to our hotel later in the night to people watch and see new squares and plazas lit up. That was DEFINITELY electric. It has been such a wonderful day of us joking around and successfully seeing the city, and now I can’t wait to go to sleep! It’s awesome to be sharing this all with JF, too.

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When will JF stop insisting we take photos everywhere?!??? He’s obsessed. Honestly it’s exhausting 🙄🤐

Alcazar adventures!

Making frenemies with the Alcazar fish as they tell me off. I decided life as a fish there would be pretty nice, but JF voted a firm ~No~. Classic zoomer-millennial.

[summer-in-cadiz]

[summer-in-cadiz]

JF and I are striking a good balance of relaxed living here while still checking off the tourist must-sees!

When I came to Sevilla at the start of my program, I saw most of the places we’ve been lucky enough to revisit together, but this trip was my first experience seeing the famous Plaza de España! It’s just incredible and fascinating to see how the city has continued to develop across eras... from La Catedral to the Plaza to Las Setas. JF says the Plaza de España is his favorite thing he has seen in Spain so far, and I fully understand why. We even got to use my scooter and go there on foot, rolling through beautiful gardens with little kids playing and people quietly strumming guitars. I loved everything about that adventure. JF’s reaction to the Plaza is similar to mine whenever I see the ceilings at Alcazar — speechless. Being around this much history makes me feel the same as when I look at constellations: humbled and cosmically small in a really peaceful way.

On one evening sitting on a fountain outside the Cathedral, we saw a group of college musicians in (what I assume) traditional dress stroll up with guitars and form a huddle. After speaking to one of the guys, we found out that they were a Portuguese group traveling and making music across Spain for the Summer. They requested to put an advertising sticker on my cast (it only lasted a day!) as featured below. These conversations on the other side of the globe remind me of how many people there are living these unique lives. It is an exciting and liberating realization... what a big and cool world.

[summer-in-cadiz]

Sevilla is the place to be-a photo montage!

Spending the 4th in Spain was such a funny, interesting experience. I kept catching myself looking around for some sign of BBQ or ‘lightning bugs’ or fireworks... or any of the hallmarks of what the holiday usually holds for me, but it was just another sunny weekday here in Spain. While anyone that knows me knows that I love holidays a little more than a lot, it was a cool reminder that all over the world remarkably different ideas, days, memories, etc. are important to different groups of people. There is so much tradition and history here, and by learning as much as I can, I have the chance to make those things more important to me and my story, too. ¡Que guay! JF and I did still celebrate in our own way with a chill night in watching an old Indiana Jones movie & eating Werther’s caramels... a 4th well done :)

We have had a blast taking in Sevilla, and I am continuously mind blown by the architecture and historic sites here... lots to explore! We’ve also shared lots of amazing meals over tintos and tapas, and I love to look up at the constant and clear blueness of the sky from wherever we sit down. Although we can’t see stars at night from the city, the suddenness of the streets lighting up and the dark setting in makes Sevilla feel like its own little world. If I could choose a place to be happily lost (assuming both feet intact🙌) for the indefinite future, I think it might be in these narrow streets.

My host fam would always marvel at the temps in Sevilla when we would watch the news during meals, so experiencing it firsthand and knowing they are watching back in Cádiz makes me smile. It’s awesome to visit another deeply magical place.

There is so much more I want to write about, but Siesta is calling my name! So more on our adventures later. PS - our luggage is now here hooray!!

[summer-in-cadiz]

On the Move!

Our final couple days in Cadiz allowed me to say goodbye to the city in the way I truly wanted to. It is a place that will always be so special to me... my first time in Europe, my first time living abroad, my first time taking the kind of risk I always dreamed of, and I could not ask for a better newfound home away from home.

I stopped by Mama Carmen’s house to say a final goodbye, and our conversation reflecting about my experience was wonderful. It is funny to think about how intimidated I was that first night at dinner in contrast to our last greeting of me shouting ‘Ay, guapa!’ and her grinning, turning side to side to show me a new haircut. So much comfort grew from where we started as strangers. When I was leaving, Carmen used a phrase that I had not heard before, she said “Hasta Siempre,” instead of ‘Adios.’ This goodbye meant that while we may not see each other for a while, we will always remember one another and hopefully one day reunite. She promised that I’ll always have a room of my own at her place in Cadiz (so long as I keep her updated on Whatsapp!) and I will definitely take her up on that offer in years to come!

While I miss being able to walk the cobblestone streets with ease, there is a surprising silver lining in that I have taken more Spanish taxis now than I ever expected. Now more confident with my Spanish, I love to practice with the drivers, and I have had some of my favorite conversations with locals as I ride through the city in their backseats. These drivers are often incredibly friendly, and every single one I have spoken to has lived in Cadiz his whole life and holds a deep admiration for the city. Be it learning about local food, life among tourists, or the drivers’ personal histories, I am thrilled to feel like I’m finally reaching a point with my Spanish where I can connect with others in conversation easily, even joking around the same way I would in the States. 

A few highlights from my taxi cab chats:

- The several drivers that named Cadiz the greatest city in the world... I love how much they love and appreciate their home.

- Me explaining JF’s visit to a driver and him pointing to JF insisting that this Spanish boy could not be my brother... we got some laughs over how obvious it is that I *may* not be from Cadiz :)

- Another awesome driver complimented me on my accent! He said he had spoken with lots of tourists but had no idea where I was from because I spoke with the Cadiz accent so well... ego boost!!

- One of my very last drivers (on a solo ride) shared much of his culture and asked me about my opinions on Spanish life. By the end of the drive we had covered enough ground and shared enough laughs that he asked my name (shoutout to Juan!) and shook my hand. You can find friendly souls everywhere.

I never would have had these conversations or opportunities to practice my speaking skills without my broken foot!

After leaving Carmen’s apartment for that last time, I decided to fulfill a personal goal and crutch my way to the Cathedral. As I slowly made my way, stopping often to take in the ocean view and memorize every moment I could, I felt a deep sense of satisfaction. This was the goodbye I had longed for, a moment alone on the path so freshly familiar to me, feeling a whirlwind of emotions come full circle. When I got to the Cathedral, I sat down and people watched until I noticed an interaction that felt like the perfect lasting impression.

There was a little boy and his mom by the steps of the Cathedral, and the mom was being so wonderful and goofy with her son... making funny noises and voices and jumping around with him. Her son had the biggest grin on his face, and he would jump up two steps and look at her in shock and pride, waiting for her excited applause. This historic, incredible Cathedral was the little kid’s playground for uninhibited joy, and I suddenly started to recall all the moments when I had felt so joyful like that in Cadiz, too.

I think the difference between visiting a place (especially abroad) and living there is that you get comfortable enough to play around. While I recognized how amazing these timeless sites around me were, I am happy that I got to know Cadiz well enough to become relaxed and silly and vibrant in the face of all that awe-inspiration... that I was not so caught up in the idea of taking it in that I did not live it. 

After waving goodbye to the little boy and goodbye to my days in Cadiz, I hopped into another taxi and greeted my brother at a hotel. The next morning we came to Sevilla which we are enjoying exploring now, and each day we add new stories to our friendship. More updates to come! 

Hasta Siempre.

[summer-in-cadiz]

One of my favorite videos from today... the duo experiencing nothing short of self actualization via Spanish pastry

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Oh what a week!

JF is the best at making me smile and laugh even in stressful moments. While I love that this virtual journal captures so many highlights of my travels, there have definitely been some hard and whelming moments that make me want to sit in the shower and cry-sing Breakeven. I know I’m learning from those moments too.

We showed up to the hospital where I got my cast, and they could not see us to remove my cast (mi yeso) until next week (even though we leave Cádiz on Saturday)... So we took a taxi to a different hospital. There, I got new X Rays, and the doctor said I would need my cast on for another two weeks, and he was really surprised anyone told me it would just be on for a week. This meeting, struggling to find the words in Spanish and the doctor a little irritated by my confusion, was just hard.

Thankfully, JF stuck by me the whole way, and sometimes he understood stuff in Spanish that I couldn’t. He was there for me without pause or question and then seamlessly went into afternoon work meetings using his eloquent, professional adult voice... beyond cool and impressive. It’s really amazing to know that my brother is still my ~bestie~ but also this unconditional support system and example. I love you a lot, “Moe.”

Also please let the record reflect that I, Stella Strength, did in fact receive a sticker labeled “patient” and who is to argue with the professionals 🤷‍♀️...

While I am adjusting to some more time in my cast than expected, I am taking this challenge as part of ‘the physics of the quest,’ and am choosing to recognize the merit of this whole thing, especially the fantastic parts... and there are many to choose from.

Fantastic part examples:

- JF and Stella share tintos (woohoo!) over a Tapas dinner and do this whole Spain thing RIGHT.

- Everywhere the duo goes there are super talented street musicians whose casual genius is both inspiring and a little rude. Chances are high the pair purchases a guitar in Sevilla for jam sessions.

- Stella crutched for a hot minute today & los amigos saw cool sites! Such as: coffee & OJ in Plaza San Antonio, visiting Stella’s fav bakery on that Main Street Stella still doesn’t know the name of, and the Cathedral... the Cathedral was even open (rare!) so JF got to go inside and climb the tower. He waved from up top!

While there are highs and lows like life always has, I still feel like I am learning and growing in new, more internal ways each day. Most of all, I’m so happy to have my travel buddy with me now, and I am excited that our adventure is still only just beginning :)