#AATCC 8 Crocking Test

[sophieguo]

Shoe Upper Lining Friction Color Fastness Testing Machine: Ensuring Durable and High-Quality Footwear

The Importance of Color Fastness in Footwear Manufacturing In the competitive world of footwear manufacturing, quality and durability are key factors that consumers look for. One of the most important characteristics of high-quality footwear is its ability to maintain its appearance, especially when it comes to color. Whether it’s a high-end leather boot or a stylish synthetic shoe, maintaining…

[testing-services]

Exploring the Most Common Standards for Colour Fastness Testing in the Textile Industry

In the textile industry, ensuring the durability and appearance of fabrics is paramount. One of the critical tests conducted by manufacturers and quality control labs is the colour fastness test. Colour fastness refers to the ability of a fabric or textile to maintain its colour when subjected to various environmental factors like washing, light exposure, and abrasion. For textile products to meet market expectations and regulatory requirements, manufacturers must ensure that the fabrics adhere to specific colour fastness standards. In this blog, we will explore the most common standards for colour fastness test in the textile industry and their significance in ensuring product quality and consumer satisfaction.

1. What is Colour Fastness Testing?

Colour fastness testing measures the resistance of a fabric’s colour to various physical, chemical, and environmental conditions. It is a vital quality control procedure used to assess whether a fabric can retain its original colour after being exposed to elements such as sunlight, perspiration, washing, and rubbing. In the textile industry, colour fastness plays a crucial role in determining the longevity, appeal, and wearability of fabrics.

When fabrics fail colour fastness tests, they may lose their vibrancy, fade, or even transfer colour to other materials. This can result in customer complaints, product returns, and a damaged brand reputation. As a result, colour fastness testing has become a critical process for textile manufacturers, ensuring that their products meet international standards for quality and performance.

2. Common Standards for Colour Fastness Testing in the Textile Industry

A wide range of international standards and test methods are used by colour fastness testing labs to evaluate the colour stability of textiles. These standards are established by renowned organizations such as ISO (International Organization for Standardization), AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists), and ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials). Below are some of the most widely recognized colour fastness standards in the textile industry.

a. ISO 105 Series (International Standard for Colour Fastness)

The ISO 105 series is one of the most comprehensive and widely adopted sets of standards for colour fastness testing. It covers various tests to assess the colour stability of textiles under different conditions. The series includes tests for washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and other forms of abrasion.

Some of the key standards under the ISO 105 series include:

ISO 105-C06: This standard measures the colour fastness to washing. It simulates the effect of laundering on the fabric and determines how well the colour stays intact after repeated washing cycles.

ISO 105-B02: This standard tests colour fastness to light. It evaluates how well the fabric’s colour resists fading due to exposure to artificial light or sunlight.

ISO 105-X12: This standard focuses on colour fastness to rubbing, determining how well the colour of the fabric holds up to friction, which is essential for wearability and longevity.

ISO 105-E04: This standard measures colour fastness to perspiration. It assesses how the fabric’s colour is affected by sweat, which is critical for garments like activewear and sportswear.

ISO standards are globally recognized and provide a benchmark for manufacturers to assess and ensure the quality of their products.

b. AATCC 8 – Colour Fastness to Crocking (Rubbing)

The AATCC 8 test is a widely used method for determining colour fastness to rubbing, commonly known as crocking. This test measures how much colour is transferred to a white cloth when the fabric is rubbed. It helps assess how well the fabric will hold its colour during normal wear, such as in clothing or upholstery.

In the AATCC 8 test, a standard rubbing action is applied to the fabric, and the amount of colour transfer is measured using a grey scale, which grades the level of colour loss. Crocking fastness is essential for products that will experience significant wear and friction, such as denim, upholstery, and automotive textiles.

c. AATCC 16 – Colour Fastness to Light

AATCC 16 is the standard test for assessing colour fastness to light. It simulates exposure to both natural and artificial light sources and evaluates how well the fabric retains its colour over time. The test is typically carried out using a Xenon arc lamp or a carbon-arc light source, which mimics the effects of sunlight.

For textile products, especially those used outdoors or in direct sunlight, such as outdoor furniture or apparel, light fastness is a key quality indicator. Fabrics that fail this test may fade quickly, compromising their appearance and reducing their lifespan.

d. ASTM D1909 – Standard Test Method for Colour Fastness to Washing

ASTM D1909 is another widely used test that measures colour fastness to washing. It evaluates how a fabric’s colour is affected by the mechanical action, temperature, detergent concentration, and water quality used in washing. This test helps ensure that fabrics maintain their colour and appearance after multiple washes, which is crucial for consumer satisfaction, especially for garments and home textiles.

ASTM D1909 is part of the broader ASTM D5034 standards, which focus on evaluating the performance of textile fabrics in various conditions.

e. ISO 105-F10 – Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water

ISO 105-F10 is a specific standard for assessing colour fastness to chlorinated water, which is essential for textiles used in water-related activities. This test measures how well the fabric’s colour resists fading when exposed to chlorinated water, making it a critical test for swimwear, towels, and other aquatic fabrics.

Fabrics that pass this test are better equipped to handle the challenges of swimming pools, hot tubs, and water parks, where chlorine exposure is inevitable.

3. Why Adhering to Colour Fastness Standards is Crucial for Textile Manufacturers

Adhering to colour fastness standards is essential for textile manufacturers for several reasons:

Product Durability: Fabrics that maintain their colour over time are more durable, leading to longer-lasting products. This enhances consumer satisfaction and helps build brand loyalty.

Compliance with Regulations: Many international markets have strict regulations regarding textile products. Compliance with standards like ISO, AATCC, and ASTM ensures that textiles meet the necessary legal requirements for quality and safety.

Brand Reputation: Colour fastness is a key indicator of a product’s quality. Fabrics that fade or lose colour quickly can damage a brand’s reputation, resulting in product returns and negative reviews. Consistently meeting colour fastness standards ensures high-quality products that consumers trust.

Global Market Access: As textiles are sold globally, meeting internationally recognized colour fastness standards allows manufacturers to export their products worldwide. It facilitates smoother trade by ensuring that the products meet the quality expectations of different markets.

Cost Efficiency: By adhering to established colour fastness standards, manufacturers can avoid costly product recalls and returns. This leads to cost savings and helps ensure that production runs are efficient and effective.

4. Conclusion

In the textile industry, colour fastness testing is an essential part of the quality control process. By adhering to globally recognized standards like ISO 105, AATCC, and ASTM, textile manufacturers can ensure that their fabrics meet the highest quality and performance standards. These tests help assess the durability of fabrics under various environmental conditions, ensuring that products retain their colour, appearance, and functionality over time.For manufacturers, complying with colour fastness standards is not only critical for maintaining product quality but also for safeguarding their brand reputation and gaining access to global markets. As consumer expectations continue to rise, investing in colour fastness testing ensures that textiles remain vibrant, durable, and reliable, resulting in greater consumer satisfaction and long-term business success.

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What is a narcissist?

What characterizes a narcissist? I've encountered this term frequently, not because my friends or colleagues have applied it to me, but rather due to my older sister's frequent use of it. She appears to believe that I fit this description. To diagnose someone with Narcissistic Personality Disorder (NPD), five out of the nine criteria from the DSM-IV-TR are necessary. Some of the traits associated with NPD include a heightened sense of self-importance, preoccupation with fantasies of power, wealth, success, and love, a constant need for admiration, a belief in one's uniqueness, a lack of empathy, arrogance, entitlement, a preference for associating only with important or special individuals, and a tendency to exploit others for personal gain.

It's crucial to distinguish between narcissism and narcissistic personality disorder. Narcissism refers to certain exhibited traits in a person, where they don't meet enough criteria to be categorized as having NPD.

Allow me to elaborate on the fact that most of us possess elements of personality disorders to some degree. For instance, Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD) is one of the most commonly discussed ones. Each of us experiences varying levels of OCD tendencies. Similarly, anxiety and periods of depression are universal; the key lies in the extent to which these disorders disrupt our daily functioning.

This principle applies to both narcissism and NPD. Celebrating our achievements occasionally and taking pride in reaching goals are healthy behaviors. There's no issue with that. Therefore, if someone labels you as a narcissist or suggests you have OCD, don't be overly concerned. More often than not, they might be projecting their own emotions onto you. Give them space to express themselves, and eventually, the genuine truth will emerge.

Examples and Anecdotes: Imagine a coworker who consistently seeks praise for their achievements and often downplays the accomplishments of others. While this behavior might seem narcissistic, it doesn't necessarily meet the criteria for NPD. On the other hand, someone with NPD might manipulate their colleagues into doing their work for them, exploiting their desire to please for personal gain.

Treatment and Coping Strategies: For those dealing with narcissism or NPD, seeking professional help from therapists or counselors is a crucial step. Cognitive-behavioral therapy and other therapeutic approaches can be effective in addressing the underlying issues and promoting healthier behaviors. Developing empathy, self-awareness, and coping strategies are integral parts of the recovery process. For friends and family, setting boundaries and encouraging open communication can help manage interactions with individuals exhibiting narcissistic traits. Remember that change takes time and dedication, but it's possible with the right support and commitment.

Source: What is a narcissist?

[irispublishersfashion]

Iris Publishers_Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology (JTSFT)

An Evaluation of the Quality of Mens 100% Cotton Jersey Knit White T-Shirts

Authored by Jeanne Badgett

Abstract

An evaluation of the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of men’s 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant (Brand MM), fast fashion (Brand FF), and better (Brand B) was performed. White t-shirts from each category were tested according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications [1]. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. In appearance and performance testing, the ‘mass merchant’ t-shirts had the most results with ratings and measurements that would be considered the ‘best’ or more desirable. But from a statistical standpoint, none of the results for the ‘mass merchant’ retail category were significantly (p < 0.05) better than the ‘fast fashion’ or ‘better’ categories. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations [2].

Keywords: Quality; T-shirt

Abbreviations: MM: the t-shirt brand purchased from a mass merchant retailer; FF: the t-shirt brand purchased from a fast fashion retailer; B: the t-shirt brand purchased from a retailer classified as ‘better’; ASTM: Society for Testing and Materials; AATCC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Introduction

Is there really a difference between a $5 white t-shirt and a $125 white t-shirt? Lifestyle reporter, Julia Brucculieri J [3], posed this question to textile experts and learned that, although there are several factors that determine the price of a white t-shirt, quality is not directly linked price, and the value assessment is up to the consumer [3].

Apparel price is inherently defined by how a brand needs to position its product relative to where the competition is, but pricing is also heavily dependent on consumer expectations [4,5]. Consumers are value driven and expect more for what they are prepared to pay [6]. Because the relationship between product pricing, positioning, branding, and perceived quality is complex, it is crucial that an ap parel retailer finds the right balance between these criteria in order to remain profitable and satisfy the consumers’ desire for value [7].

Consumers benefit by understanding the different features in products because they are bombarded with a plethora of brands of the same merchandise in varying degrees of quality [8]. Under the vast umbrella of fast fashion retailers and traditional retailers, apparel quality and pricing can be so indiscriminate in nature; it is difficult for consumers to distinguish differences in order to ascertain its value [9,10]. Therefore, manufacturers, brands, and marketers use quality as a concept to differentiate their product from their competitors [11]. Chowdhary U [8]states, “Quality products tend to meet or exceed the consumer expectation”. Consumers want price tags that are commensurate with the quality, yet apparel retailers are not consistently delivering on that desire because product pricing and positioning is not a reliable indicator of quality [12,13]. Some apparel companies have resorted to altering production methods to remain profitable [14]. And as a result of rapidly changing productions methods and quality being in the eye of the beholder, gone are the days when the retailer and cost of apparel indicate quality [15,16].

Purpose

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of Mens 100% cotton jersey knit white t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better.

Research objectives of this study were to:

1. Identify and compare the product specifications of men’s 100% cotton jersey knit white t-shirts at three retail categories.

2. Measure and compare the appearance and performance characteristics of men’s 100% cotton jersey knit white t-shirts at three retail categories before and after home laundering.

3. Compare the appearance and performance characteristics of men’s 100% cotton jersey knit white t-shirts at three retail categories to the ASTM D4154 Standard Specification requirements[ 17].

Review of Literature

Introduction

T-shirts are “mundane, quite unobtrusive…and amongst the commonest of mass-produced garments” [18]. Worn day or night, in both leisure and luxury contexts, t-shirts are considered “a basic, all purpose form of clothing which is universal in application” [18]. And their omnipresent nature has enabled these garments to become a global phenomenon. Some t-shirts have unisex sizing while others can reflect fashion trends through oversized or fitted styling, deep armholes, and varied lengths [19]. The year round, season less appeal of t-shirts is achieved with simple changes in the color, fabric weight, or sleeve length [20].

At the turn of the twentieth century, the US Navy began to issue undershirts to be worn under service Mens’ uniforms, leading to the crew wearing just the undershirt to avoid soiling their uniforms while performing chores and dirty jobs. Undershirts soon became available to the public and were quickly adopted by farmers and more laborers as the garments were inexpensive and easy to maintain. The undershirt as outerwear was further popularized in the 1950s when worn on-screen by the virile actors Marlon Brando and James Dean as they portrayed characters with defiant spirits in the movies A Streetcar Named Desire and Rebel without a Cause. It has since materialized as a multifunctional garment that can be easily worn by anyone regardless of gender, age, race, fashion taste, social status, income, profession [18,20].

Comfortable, durable, and versatile, t-shirts have mass appeal because they may be worn as outerwear or underwear [21]. T-shirts are the most purchased Men’s clothing item[22]. Worldwide approximately 3,800 t-shirts are sold every minute, creating a market worth over three billion dollars. Because a t-shirt can cost so little, it is a clothing option for consumer’s at all social and economic levels. The adaptability of the t-shirt has made it the “everyday garment for so called under classes, but in other social contexts it can be a high fashion product with a chic designer logo for which an affluent consumer will pay an exorbitant price” [18]. But even though “there are many different classes of t-shirts, but they can themselves be without absolute links to class”[18].

Over the years, Mens undershirts have functioned as t-shirts, especially the classic white crew neck t-shirt. But as the technical definitions of a t-shirt and undershirt are not the same, some manufacturers have confused things further by interchanging the terms t-shirt and undershirt in their promotion and packaging. They are both marketed and consumed to be worn alone or under another shirt. Some purists would argue that an undershirt is not a t-shirt because they believe undershirts are meant to be worn solely as undergarments. Undershirts tend to be made of thinner fabrics, and sometimes feature moisture wicking properties (“Why You Should Care about what’s Under There,” n.d.). The purpose of an undershirt is to absorb sweat and to provide a defensive layer between the wearer and his more expensive clothing. An undershirt can also provide insulation when needed, and some styles offer compression to the torso area to provide a slimmer appearance [23]. In these instances, the undershirt may be designed around function instead of form (“Why You Should Care about what’s Under There,” n.d.). Ingham’s viewpoint that “t-shirts are thicker than undershirts because they are designed to be worn on their own and not necessarily as a layer under something else” is limited because “textile technology has developed fabrics that look heavy without the weight” [24].

T-shirts can be manufactured with varying degrees of quality and construction methods. And, the wide range of prices at which they are sold may not always be consistent with the quality level [20,22,23]. Glock RE, et al. [20] state that “undershirts have more consistency between price and quality; whereas outerwear t-shirts vary widely in quality in price and sometimes rely more on emotional appeal than intrinsic quality”. But through this wide variety of t-shirts, the needs and expectations of consumers can be met [25].

T-shirt manufacturing is typically dominated by large companies that produce high volumes. Because the t-shirt is a basic apparel item [26], it can be continuously manufactured and remain relatively unchanged over multiple fashion cycles. This allows for high levels of automation and specialized equipment [27]. T-shirt fabrics are primarily 100% cotton or cotton and polyester blends; all cotton is generally used in making better quality t-shirts, but other factors such as yarn type, fabrication, design treatments, and fabric finishes can also affect quality. Styling variations that impact quality may be seen in the neckline, trims, the inclusion of pockets, or applied design.

The quality properties of cotton fibers and fabrics make 100% cotton t-shirts more desirable for daily wear. A 2015 Cotton Incorporated survey of 500 consumers indicated that 79% agree that cotton fibers make better quality clothing [28]. However, the influence of sportswear on everyday fashion has resulted in more t-shirts with blends of man-made fibers that provide performance features (“A comparison of men’s t-shirts”). It is also because of escalating cotton prices that some brands and retailers began incorporating more man-made fibers into clothing. “Cotton dominant clothes (containing 51% cotton or greater) declined 11.8 percent in 2011 compared to 2010, while imports of predominantly manmade apparel increased 8.3 percent” [28]. Rising cotton prices have put pressure on manufacturers to raise t-shirt prices, use lower quality cotton, or incorporate a cotton blend (Smith, 2014). But ultimately, fabric quality is impacted by the combination and interaction of properties and characteristics of each component used to produce and finish the fabric [29].

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