#Air Sparging

[midgardbrewhouse]

Brewday - Pineapple Weed & Elderflower Saison.

Here comes another blog post of three parts, it’s certainly the time of year for foraging ingredients for beer...

Part 1: Foraging Pineapple Weed

The fermentors had been empty for well over a week so it was time to get a brew on, but before then I needed to forage some ingredients for this Summer Solstice Saison. The first is Pineapple Weed. It didn't matter that it was raining to collect these as I was going to rinse them clean anyway. Pineapple Weed grows on compacted and disturbed earth on paths and the edge of fields so with plenty of dog walkers using the route and the farmers tenancy to stick poison everywhere I wanted to make sure they were cleaned before I put them in a beer. The area on a public right of way always has loads growing and the sweet aromas of pineapple and camomile was strong in the air. I collected a bag worth, the roots came up because of the wet soil so I trimmed the plants when I got home so I just had the fresh green tops, leaves and flowers. Rinsed, prepared and put in the fridge for the brew later.

Part 2: Foraging Elderflowers

The next day I made a quick little forage up the road to my usual selection of elders while the strike water warmed. Nice to finally have a year collecting elderflower when it's not raining. I was able to do a good sniff test on each plant and found a smaller shrub-like elder had the nicest smelling sprays, they were smaller but had a wonderful citrus lime aroma. Some of the others were a bit fusty. Always make sure you choose nice smelling fresh flowers when using elderflower, it'll be a lot more rewarding. Then it's back home to process the flowers, forking them off and removing as much stalk as possible ready to go into the end of the boil of my Saison.

Part 3: Brewday

Originally this started as Gungnir my Ernest Golden Ale but I adjusted it into a bit more of a complex malt bill to really get into Saison territory. Malt bill is 69.5% Crisp Plumage Archer Heritage Malt, 9.9% Torrified Wheat, 8.6% Cara Gold, 5% Crystal T50, 4% Dextrin Malt & 3% Rolled Oats. The last two being added to hopefully give a bit more body and head retention. Standard mash at 66c with a 72c sparge. Then for the boil 20g of East Kent Goldings as I had a load spare and heard they can give a nice rounded bitterness. Then everything else goes in for the final 5 minutes with a 10 minute steep as well, and that is 100g of Ernest hops, 292g Pineapple Weed and 296g of Elderflowers. Finally to finish off it's Mangrove Jack’s M29 French Saison Yeast fermented at 29c. Hopefully pulling all these fresh summer flavours together in a tasty farmhouse foraged Saison.

Fermentation was quick on this one and after just 5 days it was down from 1.042 to 1.001! That’s 93% attenuation! At least it brought it back into style after I had poor efficiency and I'm more than happy for such a low finish for this style of beer. It was hard to get a full flavour profile when the sample is so warm but the Elderflower is definitely there along with some other herbal flavours and quite an sharp bitterness. Should be able to get a better tasting once the temp drops down. It's showing promise though, bitterness like this tends to mellow with conditioning. Time to cold crash and then bottle in a few days, I shall report back once it’s all conditioned.

[vanderking]

♞ @mollyoshea25​​ insisted:  🛀

Send a symbol for a starter based off the first time…

🛀 - our muses take a bath or shower together

❛ Miss O’Shea the water will get cold if you continue to tiptoe around this. ❜ Dutch has had enough of her teasing, he is eager for the beautiful redhead to join him in the tub. The Dublin lady was soft in ways that enchant him. His legs slip out to each side of the bath, the hairs on them damp and flattened by the lavender scented water. The bubbles ascending through the air of the bathhouse, his black curls sparge by the vapours of the hot water that filled the basin. 

He slides back far enough to create enough room for her to slot her sender, ivory frame between his thighs, where he snakes his head over her shoulder upon her finally entering. His breath visible when he allows a yearning sigh to escape his nostrils. Mustache tickling her ear he whispers into it. ❛ I’ve missed this, my love, missed being able to just lie with you like this. ❜ An arm enfolds her back into his chest, the other hand working its way to massage her scalp through fiery tussles of red hair. 

[brajeshupadhyay]

Homebrew isn’t as horrid as it used to be and it can cost you less than 50p a pint but would you make your own beer?  A starter 40-pint kit that includes liquid malt extract with yeast costs from £12 The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast An all-grain brewing equipment will cost around £200 By Toby Walne for The Mail on Sunday Published: 17:31 EDT, 23 May 2020 | Updated: 18:40 EDT, 24 May 2020 The closure of pubs, combined with stressed household finances, has caused demand for homebrew kits to soar. And I am among those who have taken to brewing their own beer while in lockdown. The result is a home bar well stocked with a mix of India pale ale, stout and cider – plus a few adventurous tipples that include mead and nettle beer. All for less than 50p a pint. Of course, home brewing is not always plain sailing. While the quality can be superior to anything available from a pub or supermarket – a result of fresh aromas and fruity hop kicks – brewing disasters can happen. The result is drinks occasionally infused with hints of soil and mould. But ‘brewing your own’ is always fun. Homebrew: The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast You can start with a basic 40-pint kit that includes liquid malt extract with yeast from £12 that can be picked up in stores such as Wilko. You heat the malt extract in a pan and then mix in sugar and water. The brew is then poured into a £10 plastic fermentation bucket with an airlock. Once cooled to about 20ºC, you add the yeast and leave everything to ferment for about a fortnight. While left alone, the yeast busily gobbles up any sugar it can find – and turns it into alcohol and carbon dioxide. It is then time to bottle. You might have spare screw top bottles lying around or old beer bottles. It might be worth investing £10 in a beer bottle capper plus £5 on a pack of 100 crown caps. Add extra sugar just before bottling to ensure that when you drink the contents there is a reassuring fizz that will provide a foaming head to the beer. Leave for two more weeks for final fermentation. Rob Neale is owner of online brewery store Malt Miller. He says: ‘Those with memories of old-fashioned budget kits that would give off a faintly recognisable homebrew tang will be pleasantly surprised by how much better today’s kits are. Companies such as Mango Jacks sell £20 kits that provide a great introduction to this fantastic hobby.’ The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast. But it is the process of putting them all together, known as all-grain brewing, that is the hard part. Books such as Craft Beer For The People by Richard Taylor and Home Brew Beer by Greg Hughes offer guidance as well as recipes – as do websites including Brewer’s Friend and BeerSmith.  A good starting point is to brew a favourite beer – a ‘clone’ – so as to replicate the taste of a top ale, such as Timothy Taylor’s Landlord or Brewdog Punk IPA. You start with a ‘mash’ – the term used for stirring germinating barley seed (known as malt) into hot water. For this you need a large preserving pan. Once this has been done, you move on to the ‘sparge’ – rinsing out the mash by adding hot water and separating off the grain. The process requires a bucket with a special rotating arm added to enable water to freely flow through this ‘wort’ liquid. You will then need to boil the wort for at least an hour, during which time hops can be added. Once cooled, the wort is put into a fermenting bin and the yeast added – just like with a basic kit. You should leave it alone to ferment into beer for a couple of weeks before bottling the ale for storage. You can spend from £20 for all the ingredients but the biggest investment will be the all-grain brewing equipment, which will cost around £200. If you invest in something fancy, such as a £700 all-in-one Grainfather, you not only get all the required equipment but also can be connected to a phone app that guides you through the process. Homebrew online traders such as Malt Miller, Brew UK and The Homebrew Shop, sell all the ingredients needed – as well as extras such as sterilisation additives so no germs get into a brew, and a hydrometer to find out the alcohol-strength.  Nettle beer’s not for fainthearts Rather than going down the traditional homebrew route, you can also turn to Mother Nature and forage for ingredients. Fruit, vegetables and even garden weeds can make a brew. To whet your appetite, consider looking at foraging recipe books, such as Booze by John Wright and Food For Free by Richard Mabey. At this time of year, stinging nettles are everywhere. You can pick a kilogram of nettle tops and throw them into a preserving pan with water and cream of tartar. Upon boiling, straining and adding sugar and lemon, the liquid is cooled and yeast is added.  For free: At this time of year, stinging nettles are everywhere The concoction is put into a five-litre glass demijohn with an airlock that can be purchased for about £10. You then sit back for a few weeks and wait in the hope the yeast will turn it into a glorious beer. Peapod burgundy was the tipple of choice for Tom and Barbara Good in 1970s TV sitcom The Good Life, but you might try something a little less potent to begin with – perhaps rhubarb wine. There is a huge range of recipes to explore online – all part of the adventure. They involve chopping up rhubarb, adding ginger and lemon – then pouring on boiling water and leaving covered in a bucket. You then decant the liquid into a demijohn. Fermentation comes from the natural yeast in the air. Patience is required. Wait a year for Mother Nature to run her course before it can be drunk. Advertisement Share or comment on this article: Some links in this article may be affiliate links. If you click on them we may earn a small commission. That helps us fund This Is Money, and keep it free to use. We do not write articles to promote products. We do not allow any commercial relationship to affect our editorial independence. The post How to make your own beer for less than 50p a pint appeared first on Sansaar Times.

http://sansaartimes.blogspot.com/2020/05/how-to-make-your-own-beer-for-less-than.html

[environmentguru]

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[toastilovethemost-blog]

First Beer Brew

Life is full of really great things, beer is one of the best of them. I’ve been drinking too much beer every since pretending not to be 16 at £1 a pint night in the Varsity, Wolverhampton (which is sadly now no more). I had never tried to make beer, so I thought I would give it a go. 

Luckily for me I had 3 things to help:

My old mate James who was as into the idea as me

Mike from work who had brewed before and was happy to pass on that sage advice

The very cool London Beer Lab around the corner from me. This is a brew and bottle shop so I could pick up all the materials and take them home on the bus

The Preparation 

We had no idea about what we were doing, so obviously we started with YouTube. Most videos demonstrate using very expensive home brew equipment, like most things the toys for brewing can get ridiculous. For a very first try this video was the money. 

Now we needed some equipment which we ended up getting mostly from Wilko’s because bog Amazon. 

At some point James made a spread sheet, this is the minimum list of stuff needed to brew.

Online you can buy brew kits where all the sugars have been removed from the grains already, this makes the process much easier. As a pretensions and arrogant pair we however wanted to do it ‘properly’.  Which in the long run was more satisfying. 

So we picked all out materials up at the London Beer Lab. All together it looked like this!

The recipe we also got from the brew shop but there is a shed ton of recipes behind a quick Google search. 

What you need is grains, hops, yeast and something to clarify the beer of impurities, in our case Irish Moss. 

Brew Day

As you will soon learn we made many mistakes, but that is what life is about right? 

Apparently the most important thing is to keep everything sanitised, so keep cleaning everything with your food sanitiser. If you do not do this then bacteria can get into the beer and make it taste sour, it might even kill you who knows. 

We started by making what is called the mash, by dumping all the grains into a massive cooking pot with enough water to cover. Then you bring the mash up to 70 degrees C and keep it there steady for an hour. If you have ever made stock before this is a similar deal, you are getting the goodness (sugars) out of the grain and into the water. Do not do what we did and forget to buy a thermometer because then you will not have a clue what is going on. If you over heat the mash the flavour of the end beer will be overly bitter. If you let the temperature drop too low you will not get enough sugar out of the grain and your beer will be weak. Our beer ended up being weak, we got about 2.5 ABV and we were shooting for 5.5 ABV. 

Now you have to separate the liquid from the grains, this is a huge ball ache. We put a big muslin bag over the rim the brew bucket, I held it in place, James pored. It was traumatic but we got it done in the end. The liquid you have now is called the wort. 

After this stage you are supposed to sparge your mash by running warm water through the grains and into the wort. We did not do this, which is another reason for our pathetically weak beer.

The boil comes next. We put the wort in the big cooking pot and topped up with water, then brought it to a steady boil and kept it going for an hour. Here you add your different hops at various times in the boil. The first hops you add give the beer its bitter flavour, those added later give more botanical notes. 

Two facts about hops:

They are closely related to cannabis which is why tins of Heineken stink of weed 

They are an ancient preservative which is probably why the were added to beer in the first place 

After the hour we let the wort cool completely and then decanted it to our sanitised brew bucket. We add the brewing yeast, put the lid on the bucket and leave for two weeks. On the lid we put an air lock which lets the gas out but no bacteria in. Mike once made plumb wine, a plumb stone blocked the air lock and the bucket exploded. It took Mike three days to clean his flat. 

Creating Worlds (for two weeks)

“Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne.”

― Kurt Vonnegut, Breakfast of Champions

Bottling 

After two weeks our beer had stopped bubbling. We wanted our beer to be fizzy so we added some sugar syrup just before bottling. The remaining yeast in the beer would eat the sugar in the bottles and produce CO2 and so bubbles (if you put too much sugar in at this point, the bottles can explode!)  

Our bottles were sanitised, then we used a siphon to put the beer in the bottles, and a bottle capper to cap those bottles. I have to tell you capping is top fun, even if you don’t ever brew try capping at least once in your life.

We then leave the beer in the bottles for two weeks to get fizzy. 

Label Design 

James works in design and I work for a charity, so obviously I did the label design. I don’t know how to use Photoshop so it was done using paint, my works xerox machine and a pair of real life scissors. 

The frog itself is great and can be found at the British Museum. 

Drinking 

The beer tasted great and went down well at my families Christmas. It was not as strong as we were aiming for but if you drank three or four you would start feeling it. 

Lessons 

People have been brewing for thousands of years, giving this a go gave me a real feeling of connection to that social history. Working with the grains in particular gives you an understanding of the thing you drink and it’s relation to the world. I have also learnt a lot about what beer is. 

I have really enjoyed doing this with my friend James. The social aspect of sharing a project was not why I gave this a go, but it turns out to be one of the most important things to come out of it. Give brewing a go with your mates! 

So would we do it again? 

A Short Walk Up A Steep Hill, a Strong Beer by the Two Wolves Brewery... COMING SOON

[imspexblog]

What are Various Methods of Examination of VOCs?

VOCs in Wastewater (Volatile Organic Compounds) offer a wealth of chemical information that reflects the biological activities processes in the water. When this information is analysed in analytical labs, it can be utilised as a biomarker to detect the existence of foreign bodies.

Until recently, there was insufficient sensitive analytical equipment and processing capacity to identify, measure, and extract patterns associated with certain illness states from very low amounts of the chemical. However, multiple analytical laboratories and equipment manufacturers have been looking into this direction for a while now.

# Understanding VOCs Scientifically

In the context of environmental analysis, the term VOC, or volatile organic contaminants, refers to the examination of chemicals in environmental samples that have the following chemical properties:

·  Low boiling points (less than 200°C)

·  Vapour pressures are low.

·  Water solubility is low-to-medium.

·  Low molecular weight organic compounds

·  HLC(H)*10-3–10-5 atm*m3/mol'

(*The range of Henry's law constants (H) is defined as the volatility from liquid to air.)

VOCs in Wastewater are man-made pollutants that are utilised or created in the production of paints, adhesives, petroleum products, medications, and refrigerants. This includes, among other things, pollutants from automobiles and industrial activities (USGS).

Compound groups covered in this categorization include a variety of structural and chemical features, including:

·Halogenated hydrocarbons

· Aromatics

· Ketones

· Nitriles

· Acrylates

· Acetates

· Ethers

· Sulphides

Many of these substances are still present in our environment today. The EPA and other regulatory agencies establish acceptable exposure levels and rules for the discharge of VOCs in Wastewater and other environmental resources.

1. Environmental Sampling using Volatile Substances

VOC characteristics lead these compounds to vaporise, evaporate, or sublimate from their liquid or solid forms at room temperature, allowing them to escape into the atmosphere. Methods of sampling and extraction must be developed to minimise volatile loss from collections through analysis.

The extraction procedure required is determined by the type of material being analysed, just as it is with SVOC analysis. However, VOC collection and isolation approaches will differ significantly from semi-volatile procedures.

2. Concentration and Extraction

To prepare and transmit VOC to instruments for analysis, a variety of procedures and tactics are employed. The use of purge-and-trap followed by gas chromatography (GC) or gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS) dominates volatile analysis, though static headspace is also frequently used. The following are five of the most prevalent methods for volatile extraction.

- Analysis of static headspace

- A purge-and-trap concentrator.

- Thermal evaporation (to air page)

- Dilution with hexadecane or another solvent for direct injection

- Vacuum distillation and azeotropic distillation (non-purgeable, water-soluble, organics)

3. Techniques for Analyzing VOCs Using Headspace

The vacant region above the sample in a sample vial is frequently referred to as the headspace. Static headspace is used to gently heat-sealed vials holding samples to force VOC chemicals out of the sample matrix and into equilibrium with the gas phase.

Once stabilised, the gas phase within the vial is collected or transported straight to the instrument for analysis. This approach is best suited for chemicals with relatively high Henry's law constants, such as organic fuels. This approach, however, may not be suited for MTBE or ethylene dibromide (EDB).

4. Purge and Trap Concentrator (P&T) for VOC Analysis

Purge and trap concentration, also known as dynamic headspace sampling, is one of the most widely utilised and sensitive techniques for volatile analysis in analytical labs.

- The sample is put in the sparging vessel, where method analytes are purged from the water by sparging through the sample with helium or another inert gas stream. Heat is occasionally used to force VOCs in Wastewater out of the liquid phase and into the gas phase, as with static headspace.

- Once freed from the sample, VOCs in the gas phase is transported to an adsorbent trap and transiently bond.

- After that, the trap is heated and back-flushed along with carrier gas. The purpose is to drive the Analytes into a Gas Chromatographic System.

5. VOC Analysis Using Gas Chromatography

As previously stated, gas chromatography with flame ionisation (FID), electron capture (ECD), or mass spectrometry (GC-MS) detection is the most often used technology for detecting, identifying, and quantifying VOC. The selection of a detection method necessitates consideration of several analytical factors as well as regulatory criteria. The table below lists the most common stand-alone GC detectors used in VOC analysis, along with their affinities.

Flavor Spec

FalvorSpec is a GC-IMS system (gas chromatography with ion mobility spectrometry) designed to analyse the headspace of liquid and solid samples without pre-treating the samples. Its high analytical capabilities can automatically analyses, test and examine large sample numbers simultaneously.

The Native Technology developed by Imspex is a highly preferred device, used in Top Analytical labs for testing and analysing VOCs in wastewater. Visit their official website to know more about FlavorSpec, GC-IMS Technology and how it can transform the future of VOC analysis.

[upscwithnikhil]

Nitrogen has the atomic symbol N, the atomic number 7, and an atomic weight of 14.01. Nitrogen is colourless, odourless, and inert when it is in its gaseous state. According to Los Alamos, nitrogen is colourless, odourless, and has a similar appearance to water in liquid form.

Read More on UPSC Courses in Nagpur to Click Here... https://bit.ly/3mxTPnc

[phoenixel]

Top 4 Soil Treatment and Remediation Methods

Underground Storage Tank Assessment Ohio

Environmental Remediation Consultants adopt a multi-dimensional approach to assess residentials or commercial sites for any sign of contamination. With the advancement in the field of science and technology, complex and challenging Environmental Site Assessments have become quick, effective, and simple. Experts, Scientists, and Engineers with the help of biological and chemical methods provide effective remediation services. Some of the top methods adopted by Environmental Remediation Consultants for remediation of the site are mentioned below:

Chemical remediation: Chemicals are injected into the soil to neutralize and flush out toxic chemicals.Similarly, acids and other agents are used to treat soil with heavy metals. Different chemical methods like in situ chemical oxidation (ISCO) are adopted as per the type of pollutant to stabilize them.

Biological Remediation: The eco-friendly method insists upon degrading the contaminants using microorganisms that feed on waste. The method is effective to remove, stabilize, and degrade various organic or inorganic pollutants in the soil.

Mechanical Remediation: This most widely used method includes excavation, soil removal, soil washing, and contaminate solidification. This is the quickest and simple technique to treat contamination.

Encapsulation:

To restrict and stop the contaminants from further spreading. This is equivalent to constructing a physical wall to divide the contaminated soil from other soil. This encapsulated soil can be further treated and made fit for the environment.

Additionally, Air Sparging, Thermal Soil Remediation, soil vapor extraction, and bio venting are some other popular techniques used for remediation after doing proper Environmental Site Assessments.

To know more about visit-  https://www.evernote.com/shard/s569/sh/61e2a304-368c-16af-3864-5ff5e5508e1f/e75ba0d4a7ef7cae39188a0313bf3c07

[tipsycad147]

How To Cast A Circle

By  Greyhart

How to cast a circle, is one of the first things new Witches learn. It’s also the thing most new Witches wonder if they’re doing right. Casting a circle isn’t hard, it just takes practice. I am a big believer in casting circle the same way every time. The reason for this, is twofold.

First, you want to cast enough circles, that you become confident that you are doing it right. Also, with enough practice, you will get to the point where you no longer think about what you need to do, it becomes second nature. This allows you to concentrate on the purpose of the ritual, instead of concentrating on casting the circle.

The second reason I cast the same way every time, is because I know it works. I have known Witches who never cast a circle the same way twice. Once you are confident that your circle casting works every time, you can play with new ways to cast, but even then, I still cast as I was taught more than 30 years ago.

If I know my circle casting works, why would I try some new way of casting circle? Why use something that is new and untested, unless there’s a specific reason for it? Certainly, there will be times where casting circle needs to be done differently, but 99 out of 100 times, my normal circle casting will work just fine.

Sweeping the area.

Unless you have a place like a Ritual Room, that is only used for ritual, the first thing you’ll want to do, is cleanse the area where you will be casting circle. Traditionally, this is done with a Besom, which is nothing more than straw or twigs, wrapped onto a wooden handle or branch. If you don’t have a Besom, you can use anything to create a movement of air, including your hands.

I walk around the area, from the center outward, spiraling deocil, moving the Besom in a sweeping movement a few inches above the floor. This is not a physical cleaning, it is a spiritual cleaning. As I sweep, I mentally see the energy of the area being moved outward, away from where I’m going to cast the circle.

If I am in a room, as I get to the outer edges of the room, I visualize the energy being gathered up by the Besom, and then sweep it out through the door. Doorways are powerful boundaries in their own right. That’s why the Romans had a God of doorways.

If I want to be sure the space is well cleansed, or there is some particularly bad energy in the space, I will light a sage stick, and carry it as I sweep the space. This is not necessary, but works effectively.

Once you have finished sweeping the area where you plan to do ritual, you should feel a difference. The area should feel clean. If you have done a really good job, it may even feel antiseptic. This is fine. You will be refilling the area with energy, as you cast, and do ritual.

Casting the circle.

I use what is called a Duly Cast Circle, or a Triple Cast Circle. The first thing you have to understand, is that you are not creating Sacred Space. I have said many times, that the Universe is Sacred Space. I don’t care if you’re knee deep in shit, in a sewer, you’re still in Sacred Space. Casting circle just marks an area where you are going to do ritual. It builds the Temple for worship, just like building a church creates a space for Christians to worship.

I first cast the circle with energy. This can be done with an Athame, wand, sword, staff, or just a finger. The tool is unimportant. You use what you have available. I draw energy up from the ground, through my feet, up through my body, and direct it down through my arm, hand, and tool (if I’m using one), toward the ground where I want to draw the circle.

Most Witches I’ve talked to, say they can’t see energy, they only feel it. I see energy, and I’ve taught my students to see it. All it takes to see the energy, is a bit of imagination. In my mind’s eye, the energy coming out to draw the circle is a blue-white in color. I see the beam in my mind, and superimpose that image over what my eyes see. It takes some practice, but anyone can do it.

I see the beam of blue-white energy hit the ground, or floor, stay there. I then start to walk around the area I want to cast, watching the light shoot to the ground and stay there, almost like a rope. Normally, I start casting in the East, so wherever I want the eastern boundary of the circle, is where I begin this process.

I walk around the perimeter of the circle I’m casting, letting the energy hit the ground, forming the circle. I walk from East to South, South to West, West to North, and North to East again, Deocil around the circle. When I get back to the East, I simply overlap the energy at the point where I started casting, and the energy literally pops into a perfect circle.

I can overlap the starting point, because I can see the energy I am casting. How all these other Witches cast a proper circle, without being able to see the energy, I have no idea. Now the first circle is cast. There is a perfect circle of blue-white energy on the floor, with me inside. I can feel a difference once the circle pops into shape. I can’t describe the difference, but you’ll know it when you feel it. That is the sign of a good casting.

Triple casting the circle.

Now that the first circle is cast, I put a little incense onto the fire. This can be powered incense in a thurible, cone incense, or a stick of incense. Whatever works, or you have available. Starting at the East, I again walk deocil around the circle, using my free hand to create a breeze to push the incense out to the circle boundary.

I have been asked what incense is best to use for this. Honestly, it’s personal preference. Plain old frankincense, sandalwood, or sage works fine. Whatever works for you, or you have available. There are times, when a specific ritual may be aided by using a specific incense, but normally, I use something I have on hand. There’s really no point in buying a bunch of incense of different herbs or blends, that you may never use for years.

After censing the circle from the East, all the way around to the East again, I go to the altar, and put three measures of salt into a bowl of clean water. I use the flat blade of my Athame to do this. You can use anything that will move salt from the salt dish to the water, including your fingers, to put three pinches of salt into the water.

I then stir the salt into the water with the blade of my Athame (or my finger, if I used my fingers) deocil, three times. Again, this is a spiritual stirring, not a physical mixing. Three times around the bowl is all you need. Starting again in the East, I flick the salt and water at the boundary of the circle.

There are all sorts of specialized tools made for this, some people use a small brush, or a feather. I dip my fingers into the water and flick them at where I want the water to go. The walls of my ritual room are splattered with marks from about two feet down, and on the floor where I’ve done this over and over again. The sun has to be at a certain angle to really see the water marks. If I ever move, I’ll wash the walls and repaint the room.

Once you have finished sparging the circle all the way around with salt and water, your circle is Duly Cast. You should feel and hear the difference. Sounds you make in the circle should be hollow. Noise from outside the circle should be dampened, or gone. There is a highway right behind my backyard. When I cast circle in the backyard, I have had people remark on the fact that the noise from the highway is gone.

You are now in a place that is not a place, a time that is not a time. You are between the worlds. Your five senses will tell you that something has changed. You may not be able to tell exactly what, but you will feel the difference. When you can achieve this every time you cast circle, you will know that you have done it right, and that you can do it any time you wish.

Next, I will walk you through calling the Quarters, and invoking the Gods.

If this was helpful (or not) let me know below. Ask any questions you have, and I will do my best to answer them.

http://www.witchcraft-academy.com/how-to-cast-a-circle/

[midgardbrewhouse]

Fuggle Harvest & Green Hop Brewday

Thought I’d have a quiet weekend at home this weekend, which wasn’t so quiet when you have a Green Hop Brewday planned! The first thing was to coordinate picking my fresh Fuggles around mashing and sparging. Easily got my allocated 500g for my green hop brew, in fact I upped it to 600g! The rest I finished stripping from the bine after I’d done brewing and those are now out air drying for 3-4 days, they weren’t far off this morning and I brewed on Saturday.

Usually I do some kind of English style with Green Hops but having been recently inspired by the brewing of Little Earth Project and seeing them busy down south harvesting their hops for a Hedgerow Saison I thought what a great idea this would be. I’ve even drank the 2017 and the 2018 batch and they were great, it just never clicked at the time. What really pushed it all into place was that I’ve also got my Damson Belgian Strong Ale on the go, I do have a spare Fridge for just this reason but not  the capacity to bottle up two beers within weeks of each other, this was where the Sour Saison comes in as it’ll need to be left in the Brew Fridge for a good while to properly sour. No cheaty kettle souring here I’m going all out with Wyeast’s Belgian Lambic Blend.

So the malt bill was loosely based on my tried and tested Jörmungandr Saison recipe but upping the wheat considerably as I read it's good for the bacteria I'll adding for souring. Also using up a few bits so I ended up with slightly random amounts. 43.2% Floor-malted Bohemian Pilsner, 44.8% Pale Wheat, 6.8% Munich, 4% Acid and 1.2% Dark Crystal for a little bit of extra colour. Mashed at 65c and sparged at 67c. What I totally forgot to do was put rice hulls in for all that extra wheat, so yep, I got a stuck sparge. It didn’t take too much longer than usual but it did mean my overall efficiency suffered a bit, down to 56% at an OG of 1.044. Still should be around 4.4% ABV though, which will probably be quite nice for a sour so never mind.

It was so much easier to green hop this year with a bigger kettle, going from 17L to 35L really helps. For hopping we had 15g of last years dried Fuggles for 60 minutes with 250g of fresh green Fuggles for the last 10 minutes followed by a final charge of 350g for the final 5. Picked, stripped and in the boil in less than an hour from bine to beer! The other bonus of green hopping is that they don’t soak up all your wort, so although there is a lot more volume of hops you don’t lose any beer to them.

I cooled to 21c and pitched the Belgian Lambic Blend, there wasn’t much activity last time I checked but these sort of sour blends can take a while to get going. This is no rocket powered Kveik here, we’re playing the long game. I shall report back in some time.

Don’t forget I updated my social media stuff regularly so follow me on Twitter or Instagram for more up to the minute updates.

[sandlerresearch]

Environmental Remediation Market with COVID-19 Impact Analysis by environmental medium(soil & groundwater), Technology (Bioremediation, Pump & Treat, Soil Vapor Extraction, Chemical Treatment), Site Type, Application, and Region - Global Forecast to 2026 published on

https://www.sandlerresearch.org/environmental-remediation-market-with-covid-19-impact-analysis-by-environmental-mediumsoil-groundwater-technology-bioremediation-pump-treat-soil-vapor-extraction-chemical-treatment-site-t.html

Environmental Remediation Market with COVID-19 Impact Analysis by environmental medium(soil & groundwater), Technology (Bioremediation, Pump & Treat, Soil Vapor Extraction, Chemical Treatment), Site Type, Application, and Region - Global Forecast to 2026

“High adoption for environmental protection services is driving the environmental remediation market”

The overall environmental remediation market is expected to grow from USD 104.6 billion in 2021 to USD 158.8 billion by 2026; it is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.7% during 2021–2026. Key factors fueling this market’s growth include increasing government initiatives for environmental protection; growing focus on development of environment-friendly industries; and rapid population growth and industrialization in developing countries. Development of advanced remediation technologies and continuous expansion of oil & gas industry create a strong demand for environmental remediation for efficient industrial operations in the midst of COVID-19.

“Oil & gas application to witness the highest CAGR in environmental remediation market during 2021–2026.”

The environmental remediation market for oil & gas application is expected to grow with the highest CAGR during the forecast period, because of the high demand for remediation solutions to clean volatile organic compounds in this industry. Pollution is associated with different stages of oil and gas production including wastewater, gas emission, solid waste, and aerosols generated during production, and refining, as well as during transportation, when spillage of oil and petroleum products make take place. Remediation technologies are used in the oil and gas industry to remove contaminants such as methane, propane, sulfur dioxide, volatile organic compounds, and other toxins.

“North America is expected to hold a largest share of environmental remediation market by 2026.”

North America is home to some of the major players in the environmental remediation market, such as AECOM (US), Clean Harbors, Inc. (US), Golder Associates Corporation (Canada), Brisea Group, Inc. (US), Entact LLC (US), Terra Systems, Inc. (US), GEO Inc. (US), Newterra Ltd. (Canada), and Weber Ambential (Mexico). The rising adoption of environmental solutions and services and the presence of major companies have helped the growth of the market in this region. Government initiatives to curb pollution and increase the adoption of environmental solutions and services in the region are also fueling the growth of the market in North America.

Breakdown of profiles of primary participants:

By Company: Tier 1 = 45%, Tier 2 = 30%, and Tier 3 = 25%

By Designation: C-level Executives = 30%, Directors = 25%, Managers= 45%

By Region: North America = 45%, Europe = 30%, APAC = 20%, and RoW = 5%

Major players profiled in this report:

Clean Harbors, Inc. (US)

AECOM Technology (US)

DEME NV (Belgium)

Golder Associates Corporation (Canada)

Jacobs Engineering Group (US)

Brisea Group (US)

ENTACT, LLC (US)

Terra Systems (US)

Engineering and Maintenance Solutions (EMS) (Australia)

HDR, Inc. (US)

Research Coverage

This report offers detailed insights into the environmental remediation market by environment medium, site type, technology, application, and region. Based on technology, the environmental remediation market has been segmented into air sparging, soil washing, chemical treatment, bioremediation, electrokinetic remediation, excavation, permeable reactive barriers, in-situ grouting, phytoremediation, pump and treat, soil vapor extraction, in-situ vitrification, and thermal treatment. By site type, the environmental remediation market has been segmented into public and private. Based on environment medium, the environmental remediation market has been segmented into soil and groundwater. On the basis of application, the environmental remediation market has been segmented into mining and forestry, oil & gas, agriculture, automotive, landfills and waste disposal sites, manufacturing, industrial, and chemical production/processing, and construction and land development. The study forecasts the size of the market in 4 regions—North America, Europe, APAC, and RoW.

Reasons to buy the report

The report would help market leaders/new entrants in this market in the following ways:

This report segments the environmental remediation market comprehensively and provides the closest approximations of the overall market’s size and its sub segments (across different site types, technologies, applications, and regions).

The report would help stakeholders understand the pulse of the market and provide them with information about key drivers, restraints, challenges, and opportunities.

This report would help stakeholders understand their competitors better and gain more insights to enhance their position in the business. The competitive landscape section includes competitor ecosystem and contracts, product launches, acquisitions, and partnerships carried out by major market players.

[stelladilemmen]

Autumn and beehives

Fall season has made its entrance with full force, like a football player sliding in to tackle - as if to underscore that, in such uncertain times, there's no joking around with nature. She moves ahead unpredictably and unstoppably.

Why do we humans then keep on thinking that we could steer and shape the course of events as we please, to our exclusive benefit and regardless of the harmful consequences that our actions may cause?

Three of our bee families have been exterminated. One hundred thousand dead bees, poisoned by the flower buds impregnated with herbicide that some reckless neighbour spreaded around, to this day believing that poisoning the „bad herbs“ (and with them the soil, the vineyards and the air) would help to maintain his grounds „neat and tidy“ without too much trouble. He didn't recognize that the death he was spreading would affect way more than just some weed. By going on like this, he'd poison the whole ecosystem, with all the resources and living beings that are part of it: plants, animals…and humans.

There will be more work at Stella di Lemmen at the end of this winter: we'll increase the number of beehives and nurture the bees to the best of our abilities.

The grief we experienced will make us even more determinated to protect and grow our tiny but strong community!

Autunno e alveari

La stagione autunnale quest'anno ha fatto il suo ingresso di prepotenza, come un calciatore a gamba tesa - quasi a sottolineare, in questo momento storico così incerto, che con la natura non si scherza. I suoi modi di procedere sono imprevedibili e incontrastabili.

Perché quindi noi umani non rinunciamo mai al pensiero di poter indirizzare, plasmare il corso degli eventi, fantasiosamente, a nostro piacimento e unico vantaggio, incuranti delle conseguenze deleterie che il nostro agire possa determinare?

Tre delle nostre famiglie di api sono state falcidiate. Centomila api morte, avvelenate dalle infiorescenze cosparse di diserbante da qualche nostro incauto vicino che ancor'oggi pare pensare che avvelenare le “male erbe” (e con loro il suolo, la vigna e l’aria) serva ad ottenere il terreno “bello pulito” con poca fatica. Non si rende conto che la morte che sparge riguardi ben più che qualche erbaccia. Così finisce per avvelenare l'intero ecosistema, con tutte le risorse e gli esseri che ne fanno parte: vegetali, animali...e umani.

Ci sarà più lavoro a Stella di Lemmen alla fine del prossimo inverno, aumenteremo il numero di alveari e ci cureremo delle nostre api al massimo delle nostre capacità.

Il lutto sofferto ci aiuterà ad essere più determinati nel nostro lavoro per proteggere ed aumentare la nostra minuscola, grande comunità.

[petermichaelwinery]

This week we are bottling our 2016 Chardonnays and we thought we’d share a little about the process.

We use a “mobile bottler”, the same one for many years.  Our guy “Sam” brings a complete modern bottling line built into a semi-trailer. The whole operation takes place under a large tent we erect on our crush pad.

The “glass” arrives packed in the finished wine cases.  The first step is to empty these onto the “line.” The bottles are then “sparged,” blown out with neutral gas. This displaces the air, which could prematurely age the wine, and insures that there isn’t any dust in the bottles.

Then, the bottles are filled with wine and transported down the line where the corks are inserted.  Once corked, a “capsule” is applied on the top of the bottle. The capsule is soft metal seal that protects the cork and gives a neat finished look.

Finally, the labels are affixed and the bottles are moved down the conveyor belt and carefully inspected before the crew places them in the cases. These are then sealed and palletized, 56 cases to a pallet, in four “layers” of 14.  The pallets are then wrapped with industrial “saran wrap” to keep the cases from shifting during transit

As always, our cellar crew, keeps a close watch over every step of the process, to ensure that each bottle is as perfect as we can make it.

[chemwhat]

Ruthenium CAS#: 7440-18-8

IdentificationPhysical DataSpectraRoute of Synthesis (ROS)Safety and HazardsOther Data

Identification

Product NameRutheniumIUPAC NamerutheniumMolecular Structure

CAS Registry Number 7440-18-8EINECS Number231-127-1MDL NumberMFCD00011207Synonymsruthenium, rhuthenium, ruthenium,, Rutenium, Ru, Rh, Ruthenium; CAS Number 7440-18-8; CAS NO 7440-18-8Molecular FormulaMolecular Weight101.07InChIInChI=1S/RuInChI KeyKJTLSVCANCCWHF-UHFFFAOYSA-NCanonical SMILES Patent InformationPatent IDTitlePublication DateUS2014/121400PROMOTED RUTHENIUM CATALYST FOR THE IMPROVED HYDROGENATION OF CARBOXYLIC ACIDS TO THE CORRESPONDING ALCOHOLS 2014WO2009/53446NOVEL PREGABALIN INTERMEDIATES AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THEM AND PREGABALIN 2009WO2008/69984PRODUCTION OF BUTENES AND DERIVATIVES THEREFORM FROM DRY ETHANOL2008

Physical Data

AppearanceWet black powderMelting Point2310 °C (lit.)Boiling Point3900 °C(lit.) Flash Point207.324°CDensity12.45 g/ml Description (Adsorption (MCS)) Partner (Adsorption (MCS))Adsorption to title compoundCO and HAdsorption to title compoundcarbon monoxideAdsorption to title compoundmethanolAdsorption to title compoundCOAdsorption to title compoundchlorine

Spectra

Description (IR Spectroscopy)Solvent (IR Spectroscopy)Temperature (IR Spectroscopy), °CComment (IR Spectroscopy) Spectrumneat (no solvent, solid phase)1000 cm**-1 - 3000 cm**-1Spectrumneat (no solvent)256.851900 cm**-1 - 2200 cm**-1Spectrumneat (no solvent, solid phase)2800 cm**-1 - 4000 cm**-1 Description (UV/VIS Spectroscopy)Solvent (UV/VIS Spectroscopy)Comment (UV/VIS Spectroscopy)Spectrum, Band assignmentethane-1,2-diol200 nm - 800 nmSpectrum, Band assignmentsolid0.5 eV - 6.5 eVSpectrum, Band assignmentneat (no solvent)260 nm - 380 nm

Route of Synthesis (ROS)

Route of Synthesis (ROS) of Ruthenium CAS 7440-18-8 ConditionsYieldWith carbon monoxide In neat (no solvent) passing CO over RuO2, heating; In neat (no solvent) heating at 1400 °C, cooling;With hydrogen at 200℃; for 4h; α-aluminium oxide; Experimental Procedure 300 g of a used catalyst comprising 2percent by weight of RuO2 on α-aluminum oxide as support was reduced in a stream of hydrogen at 200° C. in a rotary tube furnace for 3 hours. Here, the catalyst was firstly heated to 200° C. in a stream of nitrogen, and was then reduced in a stream of N2/H2 (5:1) for 1 hour and subsequently in pure H2 for 3 hours. The reduced catalyst was dispensed under a nitrogen atmosphere into a vessel into which nitrogen was passed. The reduced catalyst was subsequently transferred under a nitrogen atmosphere into a 2000 ml stirred apparatus and 1160 g of 32percent strength by weight hydrochloric acid were added. While stirring and introducing nitrogen, the mixture was heated to 100° C. The mixture was subsequently stirred at 100° C. while sparging the solution with 50 l/h of air for 24 hours. A dark red ruthenium chloride solution was obtained and this was decanted off from the residue. The support which remained as residue was washed with about 1 l of water until neutral. The support was subsequently dried at 120° C. for 16 hours and the ruthenium content of the support was determined. The determination indicated a ruthenium content of 0.20percent by weight. In comparison, the used catalyst comprised 1.49percent by weight of ruthenium. Thus, about 13percent of the originally comprised ruthenium remained on the support.With CO In neat (no solvent) passing CO over RuO2, heating;In neat (no solvent) heating at 1400 °C, cooling;; With H2 In neat (no solvent) reduction of RuO2 in hydrogen at 873 K within 2 h; With H2 In neat (no solvent) reduction of RuO2 (commercial compound or prepared from RuCl3 by calcining in air) in flowing H2 (1.7 cm**3/s) at temps. between 553 and 803 K; degassing at react. temp. for 3 h down to 1.33E-4 Pa; In neat (no solvent) RuO2 decompd. into metal at temp. of about 100°C at heating rate 1°C/min under Ar/H2; detn. by TG anal.;

Safety and Hazards

Pictogram(s)

SignalWarningGHS Hazard StatementsH228: Flammable solid H413: May cause long lasting harmful effects to aquatic life Information may vary between notifications depending on impurities, additives, and other factors. Precautionary Statement CodesP210, P240, P241, P273, P280, P370+P378, and P501 (The corresponding statement to each P-code can be found at the GHS Classification page.)

Other Data

TransportationNot dangerous goodsUnder the room temperature and away from lightHS Code381512StorageUnder the room temperature and away from lightShelf Life1 yearMarket PriceUSD 790/kg Use Patterncatalyst for producing monofunctionalized dialkylphosphinic acids, esters or saltsmanufacturing a hydrocarbonenantioselective preparation of herbicide metolachlor precursor (S)-2-ethyl-N-(1-methoxypropan-2-yl)-6-methylanilineRuthenium is mostly used in effective hardenercatalyst for fluoroolefins hydrogenationmetallic element for hydrodenitrogenation catalystCatalyst useful for N-demethylation and/or N-acylation of N-methylated heterocycle Read the full article

[midgardbrewhouse]

Fuggle Green Hop Brewday.

Having let my Fuggle go a bit rampant this year and climb all over the shed as well as its trellis frame I've about double the amount of hops to harvest. It is a 9 year old plant after all.

Anyway it did mean that when I started my Red Rye Best Bitter this morning it was pretty easy to just cut all the bines on the shed roof and drag the lot off.

While the mash of 53.5% Best Red X, 24.3% Malted Rye, 9.7% Vienna, 6.3% Red Rye Crystal and 6.1% Torrified Wheat was in at 68c I frantically got picking. A bit of a slow sparge helped with time, lol. I didn't have quite enough oat husks in as I would have wanted.

In the boil I did a small bittering addition of 17g Bramling Cross, as surprisingly I'd run out of my own Fuggles from last year. Gave more away than I thought.

Then went for the big green hop additions, with 400g for 15 minutes and 500g for 5 minutes with another 5 minute steep. This is 150g more than I used last year but I really wanted that unique flavour to come through with a more complex malt bill. Also, I have so many Fuggles, lol. The rest that I've picked will go to be air dried shortly.

Apart from needing a lot more wet hops these large additions are actually easy on the Brewzilla as they don't absorb any wort. I think 900g total is probably as far as I'd go though.

I was just 2 points short, that stuck sparge I recon, but I'm not too bothered as I wanted this to be a lower ABV beer. We're looking around 3.8%, so perfect for an English Best Bitter. Just the NBS Classic Ale Yeast to pitch in at 19c now then to wait for the magic to happen.

Update: Well I think we can call a success on at least the colour of my Green Hop Red Rye Bitter! Down to 1.012 over 6 days from 1.040. I suspect it might not go any further now but I'll give it a few more days and test again. I was debating as to whether it needed dry hopping with some more fresh Fuggles as well but from the sample I'm more than happy with the flavour as it is. Bags of fresh English hop character, crisp caramel malts and a slightly dry bitter spicy Rye finish. Just needs to be cold crashed once I'm sure it's done to drop the rest of the Yeast out of suspension. I think this one will go pin bright given a little time.

[brajeshupadhyay]

How to make your own beer for less than 50p a pint

Homebrew isn’t as horrid as it used to be and it can cost you less than 50p a pint but would you make your own beer?

 A starter 40-pint kit that includes liquid malt extract with yeast costs from £12

The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast

An all-grain brewing equipment will cost around £200

By Toby Walne for The Mail on Sunday

Published: 17:31 EDT, 23 May 2020 | Updated: 18:40 EDT, 24 May 2020

The closure of pubs, combined with stressed household finances, has caused demand for homebrew kits to soar. And I am among those who have taken to brewing their own beer while in lockdown.

The result is a home bar well stocked with a mix of India pale ale, stout and cider – plus a few adventurous tipples that include mead and nettle beer. All for less than 50p a pint.

Of course, home brewing is not always plain sailing. While the quality can be superior to anything available from a pub or supermarket – a result of fresh aromas and fruity hop kicks – brewing disasters can happen. The result is drinks occasionally infused with hints of soil and mould. But ‘brewing your own’ is always fun.

Homebrew: The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast

You can start with a basic 40-pint kit that includes liquid malt extract with yeast from £12 that can be picked up in stores such as Wilko.

You heat the malt extract in a pan and then mix in sugar and water. The brew is then poured into a £10 plastic fermentation bucket with an airlock.

Once cooled to about 20ºC, you add the yeast and leave everything to ferment for about a fortnight. While left alone, the yeast busily gobbles up any sugar it can find – and turns it into alcohol and carbon dioxide.

It is then time to bottle. You might have spare screw top bottles lying around or old beer bottles. It might be worth investing £10 in a beer bottle capper plus £5 on a pack of 100 crown caps. Add extra sugar just before bottling to ensure that when you drink the contents there is a reassuring fizz that will provide a foaming head to the beer.

Leave for two more weeks for final fermentation.

Rob Neale is owner of online brewery store Malt Miller. He says: ‘Those with memories of old-fashioned budget kits that would give off a faintly recognisable homebrew tang will be pleasantly surprised by how much better today’s kits are. Companies such as Mango Jacks sell £20 kits that provide a great introduction to this fantastic hobby.’

The basic ingredients required for making your own beer from scratch – rather than relying on a kit – are hops, grain, water and yeast. But it is the process of putting them all together, known as all-grain brewing, that is the hard part.

Books such as Craft Beer For The People by Richard Taylor and Home Brew Beer by Greg Hughes offer guidance as well as recipes – as do websites including Brewer’s Friend and BeerSmith. 

A good starting point is to brew a favourite beer – a ‘clone’ – so as to replicate the taste of a top ale, such as Timothy Taylor’s Landlord or Brewdog Punk IPA.

You start with a ‘mash’ – the term used for stirring germinating barley seed (known as malt) into hot water. For this you need a large preserving pan. Once this has been done, you move on to the ‘sparge’ – rinsing out the mash by adding hot water and separating off the grain.

The process requires a bucket with a special rotating arm added to enable water to freely flow through this ‘wort’ liquid. You will then need to boil the wort for at least an hour, during which time hops can be added.

Once cooled, the wort is put into a fermenting bin and the yeast added – just like with a basic kit. You should leave it alone to ferment into beer for a couple of weeks before bottling the ale for storage.

You can spend from £20 for all the ingredients but the biggest investment will be the all-grain brewing equipment, which will cost around £200.

If you invest in something fancy, such as a £700 all-in-one Grainfather, you not only get all the required equipment but also can be connected to a phone app that guides you through the process.

Homebrew online traders such as Malt Miller, Brew UK and The Homebrew Shop, sell all the ingredients needed – as well as extras such as sterilisation additives so no germs get into a brew, and a hydrometer to find out the alcohol-strength. 

Nettle beer’s not for fainthearts

Rather than going down the traditional homebrew route, you can also turn to Mother Nature and forage for ingredients.

Fruit, vegetables and even garden weeds can make a brew. To whet your appetite, consider looking at foraging recipe books, such as Booze by John Wright and Food For Free by Richard Mabey.

At this time of year, stinging nettles are everywhere. You can pick a kilogram of nettle tops and throw them into a preserving pan with water and cream of tartar. Upon boiling, straining and adding sugar and lemon, the liquid is cooled and yeast is added. 

For free: At this time of year, stinging nettles are everywhere

The concoction is put into a five-litre glass demijohn with an airlock that can be purchased for about £10. You then sit back for a few weeks and wait in the hope the yeast will turn it into a glorious beer.

Peapod burgundy was the tipple of choice for Tom and Barbara Good in 1970s TV sitcom The Good Life, but you might try something a little less potent to begin with – perhaps rhubarb wine.

There is a huge range of recipes to explore online – all part of the adventure. They involve chopping up rhubarb, adding ginger and lemon – then pouring on boiling water and leaving covered in a bucket.

You then decant the liquid into a demijohn. Fermentation comes from the natural yeast in the air. Patience is required. Wait a year for Mother Nature to run her course before it can be drunk.

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