#Dcc Sound Decoders

[olddominionrailways]

LGB trains, known for their durability and ability to operate outdoors, offer a unique experience for model train enthusiasts. But what truly transforms a basic track layout into a captivating miniature world is the addition of LGB Train Accessories.

[trainsinanime]

I didn’t think I’d need to say this, but apparently I do:

Don’t use the Raspberry Pi 2040 to build a DCC decoder.

It’s not really wrong, of course, and it gives you ridiculous amounts of computing power, but to get that you need miles and miles of extra components. Like a dozen of decoupling capacitors, an external oscillator, and of course an external flash memory. You can maybe do that sort of thing in H0, but for real model trains, it’s just not ideal. Pick something like an ATTiny or STM32C0 (I’ve done both for different projects): Cheap, just one or two decoupling capacitors, no external oscillator required and no external flash memory needed either.

The versions of the RP2350 with built in memory may be a better idea, once they fix the GPIO issues anyway, but still, there’s the oscillator and just way too many capacitors.

(Some of these concerns may be different if you want to add sound support, which requires more memory anyway. But I’d argue that sound in model railroads is a mistake anyway. I’ve never seen an N scale locomotive that sounds good, it’s all just an annoying expensive gimmick.)

Also while we’re at it, don’t use a cheap standard bridge rectifier. The steep slopes of the DCC signal mandate a really fast rectifier, typically Schottky diodes. This is particularly important when you have RailCom on your layout. You may need four individual diodes instead of one rectifier, but since you won’t need all the capacitors of the RP2040, you still win out in the end (it’s also typically smaller than the rather large SMD standard rectifiers).

This is a call-out post for https://github.com/gab-k/RP2040-Decoder . It’s a useful project, but it’s also far from ideal.

[lionnahas]

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[wersitime]

Class 66 locomotive with DCC Decoder and Dietz Micro SX Susi Sound on a ...

[bvlcorr]

A Semi-Automatic Turntable: Part 1

Part 1: Intro & Subsystems

For a while now, I've been considering using an Arduino in order to automate the operation of the turntable on my layout.  After considering several 'bolt-on' additions, I realised that trying to add indexing to the existing, DC-motor mechanism would be cumbersome.  As such, I decided to replace the drive mechanism with a stepper motor, and use that for indexing.

My original plan was to just add indexing, with a keypad to select the desired track.  But then I realised that I could take it a step further, and make it fully automated.  This didn't quite work out, and I instead ended up with a semi-automatic version.  This is how it ended up working:

I decided on this approach for two reasons: 1) I couldn't find sensors which would give me the accuracy required while being hidden.  That is, there was always a trade-off between accuracy and visual impact. 2) My layout is a backwoods operation, with operating ground throws to change the turnouts.

As such, I wanted to have a hands-on element to the turntable's operation.  While testing the fully automatic version, I found that I felt a bit 'disconnected' from what was happening.  So in this series of posts, I'll be covering how I built this final version, and some of the things I learned along the way.

This first part will cover the construction and testing of the subsystems that make up the turntable controller.  Some of these were built or adjusted after I'd decided to go from a fully automatic to a semi-automatic system.

I started by working out how to operate the stepper motor, a 12-volt NEMA-17 motor.  This was the key to the whole system, and I'd never used one before.  In order to drive it, the Arduino controls an A4988 chip.  This is the red board in the photo above, with a silver heatsink on it.  It takes a control signal from the Arduino, and a completely separate power supply for the motor itself.  The only additional component required is the capacitor, to protect the inputs for the motor power supply, as well as a 10K ohm resistor to hold down the motor step pin when not in use.

The A4988 offers the option to drive the motor in 'microsteps', in which each pulse moves the motor by a fraction of a full, 1.8-degree step.  Pins MS1, MS2 and MS3 on the A4988 are used to set which fraction is used.  Setting them high, in various combinations, allows the A4988 to drive the motor in increments as little as 1/16 of a step.  At this point in the build, I wasn't sure what resolution I would need.  As such, I added a 4-way DIP switch between these three pins and the +5v rail, to allow me to try them.  One of the switches from the DIP switch wasn't used.

Working from what I'd worked out on the breadboard, I built a motor driver board to be used in the final build.

My next step was to test that the motor had enough torque to move my locomotives.  My heaviest locomotive is my boxcab, which was built on an Athearn blue-box mechanism.  As such, it weighs in at around 450g.

I cut a length of wood to the same length as the turntable bridge.  After finding the centre, I attached the driveshaft adapter I'd had 3D-printed by Shapeways.  This fits around the shaft of the stepper motor, with a flat section where the drive shaft is flattened.  It took a few tries at different sizes before it fit perfectly.

To simulate the load, I used a box of old motors I'd bought at a sale at my model train club.  They were the only thing I had to hand which were heavy enough.  I taped them to the top of the board, until it weighed 500g (for a bit of wriggle room).  I then placed it on the end of the driveshaft.

The motor was able to move the load without any problems.  With that confirmed, I started working on the components for the control panel.  

The original, fully-automatic design had two 3mm LEDs on it, one red and one green.  These were to have been 'stop' and 'go' signals for when the automated turntable was operating.  The other component for the control panel was a 4-digit LED display to show the address of the currently selected locomotive.  Owing to the change in focus for this project, the design of the control panel changed slighlty between the initial and final versions.  But before I could build it, I needed to build the 4-digit LED display.

I'd done one of these on the base station for my DCC system.  On that occassion, I'd made the display from four individual 7-segment displays, driven my a MAX7219 LED driver chip.  This time around, I decided to use a 4-digit display, driven by the same chip.  With the four digits in the one package, it only needs 12 connections for full functionality.  I wired the 4-digit display to the MAX7219, leaving out the connections for the decimal points between the digits.  They weren't needed.

To test it, I wrote an Arduino sketch (program) that counted up to 10,000 in 0.01 second increments and ran it.  I was able to re-use a function I'd written for the base station, which will take a number up to 9,999 and display it across the four digits of such a display.

With that done, I was able to build the control panel itself.

When I decided to go from automatic to semi-automatic operation, I replaced the red LED on the panel with a single-pole, double-throw momentary contact switch.  This is used to turn the turntable, via the stepper motor.  I'd used a length of Cat5 network cable to connect the control panel to the Arduino, to keep things organised.  This had a spare wire left in it.  As such, I was able to wire the switch to the ground connection, then use the original wire for the red LED and the spare wire to connect to each side of it.

In order to get the program to work properly, there are a couple of points at which it pauses to prevent a false triggering while the locomotives move on and off the turntable.  After initial testing, I realised it would make things clearer if there were an indication of when these pauses were occurring.  So I added a yellow LED to the control panel, to indicate when the system was active.  If this LED is on, then the turntable can be turned, locos can arrive and depart, etc.  If it's off, then the system is paused.

Once completed, this control panel was installed in place of the original control panel on the fascia.  The original panel had just had two switches, a DPDT rocker to control the DC turntable motor, and a 12-position rotary switch to select track power.

Next up was the occupancy detector, to determine when a train was on the bridge.  The design of this turntable provides constant power to the tracks, with an auto-reverser reversing the polarity as needed.  After a bit of experimentation, I found that wrapping the wire at least four times through the coil was enough to allow it to detect the current of a sound decoder at idle.  At least, that's what I thought.

It's the first time I've used a coil like this, and it was sold amongst other Arduino modules.  As such, I thought I would be able to plug it straight into an analog pin of the Arduino, and take a reading from that.  This was not actually the case.  As DCC is very close to AC current, I ended up getting several values from the coil over the course of a second, including 0, which would create false negatives.  After asking about this on the Arduino forums, I learned that the way these coils work is by generating AC current, in response to the current going through them.  I thought they just sensed it.  As such, I'd accidentally been putting 38v of AC into the analog pin I was using, and had damaged it.

In order to use the coil for DCC occupancy detection, some supporting circuitry is needed.  I found this article here, outlining how to build a sensor out of such a coil.  I didn't have the exact same transistor, and instead used a BC548 NPN general-purpose transistor.  The yellow wires off the board go to the two sides of the coil, and the green one goes to the Arduino.

Once I'd built this, I tested it with my locomotives before connecting it to the Arduino.  This was where I discovered something interesting.  The circuit is designed to give a digital output, in which anything less than 1.5v on the Arduino pin is counted as a 0, and anything above it as a 1.  When testing it, I found that it produced an output of 3.7 volts when no locomotive was present, and that this dropped when one was detected.  However, about half of my locomotives only dropped it to a value above the 1.5v required for a digital 0, yet less than the 3.7v of the 'nothing detected' state.  As such, I connected it to another analog pin on my Arduino.  These voltages translated to an analog read value above 900 when nothing was detected, and below 900 when something was.  Thus, I used an analog reading with a threshold of 900 in the program function to detect occupancy.

At this point, the next item to be tested was a socket for an XBee wireless module.  I'd already used these to make my DCC system, as well as to transmit the address of the incoming locomotive to my automated staging controller.  As such, I pulled out a spare XBee, and configured it identically to the one for the staging controller.  It'll be used for the exact same purpose, receiving addresses when a locomotive is dispatched.  I tested it by connecting it to the Arduino, then rigging up the Arduino to display the received locomotive address on the LED display.

The next step was to prepare the Arduino shield.  I usually use prototyping shields for the connections to the Arduino, as this means that I can just unplug the shield and pull the Arduino out if any software updates are needed.  I've found it's easier to solder two wires together under the layout, than it is to solder to a shield.  So I added small lengths of decoder wire to each output.

My turntable has 11 tracks around it, and I didn't have 11 spare pins on the Arduino.  Instead, I used a 16-channel multiplexer with channels 1-11 wired to a bank of relay switches.  I started counting at channel 1 instead of 0 in order to make the software code a bit simpler.  The resistor on pin 4 is 220 ohms, and is connected to the green LED on the control panel.  At this point, I hadn't added the yellow LED to the control panel.  When I did, I added a 220 ohm resistor to pin 13, and connected this LED in there.

The other component of note is the variable resistor connected to pin A1.  I was originally going to have a light detecting resistor in the turntable lead track, to trigger the Arduino when a train was leaving or arriving.  However, after getting the occupancy sensor working reliably, the LDR was no longer needed.

The final building block was the relay bank.  I'd bought a 16-relay module off eBay, and I installed it behind the fascia, next to the control panel.  The wires from the original 12-way rotary switch to the tracks came out here, so by putting it in this position, I didn't have to do too much in the way of rewiring.  Each track was wired to the normally-open contacts on the first 11 switches, with wires from the common side of the relay going to the track bus.  The multicoloured ribbon cable on the far side of the relay bank goes to the Arduino, with two wires for the power supply and the other wires for the track control.

With all the building blocks worked out, the next step was to install the stepper motor and modify the turntable.  This will be covered in part 2 of this writeup.

[olddominionrailways]

Bringing Your LGB Train Layout to Life: A Guide to Essential Accessories

LGB trains, known for their durability and ability to operate outdoors, offer a unique experience for model train enthusiasts. But what truly transforms a basic track layout into a captivating miniature world is the addition of LGB Train Accessories. These accessories breathe life into your creation, allowing you to tell a story and capture the essence of a real-life railway environment. This…

[trainsinanime]

I gotta rant about the DCC accessory decoder protocol, a digital bus protocol to control switches, signals and the like on model railroads. It’s insane, but the way some companies implement it is even worse, and I want to complain and writing twitter threads is way too annoying.

The context is that I’m currently building such a decoder based on an ATtiny85, to control US railroad signals (specifically searchlight signals that I’m building with NeoPixels, but that’s not really important.).

DCC is a weird protocol because it’s ancient, and you can still see lots of that weirdness pop up in places. For a long time, for example, it didn’t have a way to communicate back, and when it was added, tech had moved on, so the back communication channel requires different hardware, works completely differently and transmits data about 30 times faster. There are four different ways to configure decoders, four different ways to address them, it’s all a bit messy.

The protocol for accessory decoders in particular is a bit weird; for example the upper three bits of the address are transmitted inverted for no obvious reason. But that’s not the worst thing about the addressing scheme. The canonical decoder for the protocol has four pairs of outputs; a pair controls a switch or a simple red-green signal. The plan was probably that you’d select the decoder address, then set output 1 to left or output 2 to right and so on. 

In practice that didn’t really make sense; there are good use cases for decoders with just one output pair, for example, and other cases where the number of outputs doesn’t really work. Think turntables or three-way switches. Also, this two-level select is just kind of annoying. So most (all? I’ve never seen any others) input units will let you select only one number for an output pair and switch that.

The wire protocol, however, is built around the idea of a “decoder address” and a “port number”, so the device sending the signal uses the “output address” and splits it into the “decoder address” and “port number”. Output 1 becomes decoder 1, port 0. Output 6 is decoder 2, port 1.

The decoder will then take these parts and reassemble them into the output number. It doesn’t have to care about the “decoder address” at all if it doesn’t want to. Have a decoder for just one switch that wants to be known as 7, and a different one that wants to be known as 6? No problem! Yes, both map to “decoder address” 2 with port 1 and 2, but they also both know that unless their port number is included, it’s not about them.

So far, so good, this is all just stuff you have to know. Well, until you try POM with an ESU base station (in my case one built by ESU for Piko). POM means “programming on main”, meaning sending “hey set that configuration value to this” commands along the normal data stream. These commands also include an address, obviously. Now, what address does this send?

Remember, for switching address 10, it sends “decoder 2 port 2″, which sounds and is weird, but at least a consistent part of weird. So when it wants to change the settings for address 10, it sends…

“decoder 10 port 0″

Now what the f am I supposed to do with that? Should I just go, “ah, the command station was mistaken, let’s just assume it meant output address 10″? That feels wrong. But should I just say, “well, of course, to program this decoder that you call decoder 10 in any other context, you need to program decoder 2″? That makes no sense, and it might not even work, since another decoder might also be “decoder 2″, just with different outputs.

Confused? Yeah, so am I. I’m probably going for the first option (just fix the command station’s mistake internally) and make it configurable whether this workaround is used or not. But this is a thing that really threw me for a loop.

[olddominionrailways]

Enhancing Your Model Railway Experience with LGB Train Accessories

In this article, we will delve into the world of LGB Train Accessories, exploring how they can elevate your model railway experience to new heights.

[olddominionrailways]

DCC Sound Decoders: Capturing the Essence of Locomotive Symphony

Old Dominion Railways: Enhancing Your Model Railroading Experience with DCC Sound Decoders and ESU DCC Decoders

[allenmendezsr]

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This bonus allows you to access for a whole month, all the Level #1 resources of the online model train club including a helpful DCC video, getting started videos and tips, lots of planning, design and scenery ideas and much more. Why am I giving you free access for an entire month? Simple – I know you’ll be impressed and not want to miss out on all the resources, tips and clever ideas inside the club. It is like a GIANT resource library for you to tap into when you need help.

* Don’t want the free bonuses and free one month club membership… one-off $67 payment option here

Or for just $67 $37 today you can get instant access to the DCC Model Trains ebook, PLUS the DCC Help ebook, PLUS DCC Wiring ebook, PLUS Model Railroad Trouble Shooting ebook, PLUS the other 6 free bonus gifts! Your initial charge will be $37. You will then be charged $27/month until you cancel after your initial charge has been made.

So why am I giving you this entire package (valued at $263.90) for only $67 $37?

Simple … This package is delivered by download immediately your payment is processed. So I’m saving on shipping costs and can pass those savings directly to you.

You’ll get PDF files which are readable on any computer, tablet, or Mac.

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The downloads are quick even on the slowest of dialup internet connections. Other internet connections are considerably faster.

You can freely printout whatever parts you want. I did investigate printing physical copies, but the price would have been more than 3 times the cost of this offer owing to printing & shipping costs. I’m sure you’ll agree, it’s best to keep it affordable. The videos easy-to-download mp4 format.

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Your initial charge will be $37. You will then be charged $27/month until you cancel anytime after your initial charge has been made.

* Don’t want the free bonuses and free one month club membership… one-off $67 payment option here

As soon as your payment is approved, you’ll be taken to your download page where you can access the DCC Handbook, DCC Help e-book, and all the bonuses within a few minutes.

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These e-books are NOT available in stores. You can only ge them through this web site.

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[bvlcorr]

A Mine Loco for the BVLC - Part 1

But wait, I hear you say, the BVLC doesn't have a mine on it.  It's a logging railroad.  Yes, it is, but I decided to add a bit of operational interest to it.  Namely, there's no 'through traffic' on the layout.  My trains originate at Camp A, then go to either Camps B or C (in staging) or Camp D (on the other side of the layout).  As such, I've decided to expand the backstory of the BVLC slightly, as follows.

In 1946, the Pebble River Mining Company discovered copper ore further up the Bradford Valley, just beyond the location of Camp C of the Bradford Valley Lumber Company.  They struck a claim, then made a deal with the BVLC.  Namely, the BVLC would allow the PRMC to build tracks from the termination at Camp C to their mine, and allow trackage rights down to Camp A.  In exchange, PRMC would have to pay the BVLC a share of the profits.

On the layout, this will be represented by a train owned by the PRMC, which comes out of staging, leaves some hoppers on the interchange track, then returns to staging.  For this, I'll need one locomotive, one caboose and some other rolling stock.  I've ordered kits for three hoppers, a boxcar and a flatcar.  As for the locomotive and caboose, I'll be scratchbuilding those.

My starting point for both the locomotive and the caboose was a Bachmann HO scale 2-6-2 Prairie.  I'd had one of these on my first layout, a 'spaghetti bowl' I'd built back in high school.  It was one of the smoothest running engines I'd had back then.  As such, I'd purchased one about six months ago with a view to converting it into an On30 locomotive.

I started by removing the locomotive's body shell, and found that this version was already DCC-friendly.  All I had to do was remove the board and smoke unit at the front of the boiler, and the motor was isolated from the chassis.

My first step was to cut a rectangle of 1.5mm styrene, 7.5 scale feet wide.  This would become the footplate of the new engine.  I then cut a gap in the middle, to allow it to fit over the chassis.  This was immediately followed by the discovery that part of the running gear stuck up above the bottom of the footplate.  In order to accommodate this, I drilled holes at the appropriate spots.

My next step was to cut two short sections of 3.2mm square styrene strip, and glue them together.  Once the glue had dried, I filed them down so that they fit into the slot at the front of the chassis, where the smoke unit used to be.  I then glued this in place, ensuring that it was centred.

To secure the other end, I again used 3.2mm square styrene strip.  This time I used a single piece, glued vertically.  This reaches the hole in the chassis used to mount the original body shell.  After this glue had dried, I drilled a hole in the bottom to accommodate the original screw.

With that done, I used another two pieces of 1.5mm styrene to build the lowered cab floor.  This will be a tank engine, so I made the floor long enough to accommodate a cab and a small fuel bunker at the rear.  I had a cab left over from my conversion of an On30 2-6-0 into a 2-6-2ST, and decided to use it.  This particular cab casting has a wall across the rear, at the end of the side walls.  I was able to cut this wall off, and re-attach it to the rear of the cab roof.  This opened up the cab itself, and left a gap for the side doors.  I also filed the rear opening slightly, to accommodate the speaker that will be mounted in the bunker.  This will be facing forward, playing the sound out through the side windows.

In order to locate the cab on the footplate, I drilled two 0.5mm holes in the corners of the cab walls.  I then glued some 0.5mm copper wire in them to act as mounting pegs, and corresponding holes in the footplate.  I also glued some square brass tubing along the underside of the footplate, to reinforce the plastic.

While the cab was drying, I tested the coupler height at the rear of the locomotive.  It was a little high, so I added a strip of the 3.2mm square styrene, and made a coupler mount out of the same material.  With this in place, the coupler height was correct.

I continued the brass tubing along the underside of the footplate.  The cab steps were formed out of 0.8mm copper wire, and soldered into holes drilled in the brass tubing.  Once these sections had cooled down, they were glued in place.  I've tried using cyanoacrylate adhesive on copper wire-to-metal joints before, and in my experience it usually doesn't work too well.

With that done, I turned my attention back to the cab.  I extended the rear wall down with styrene, and used some 2x1mm styrene strip as trim.  I then used 1mm styrene to build an oil fuel tank on the rear of the cab, with a hatch from another project that didn't work out.  Unlike the BVLC engines, this loco will be an oil burner, for two reasons.  In terms of the backstory, this is an engine working around a mine, which has explosives stored on site.  As such, engines that emit sparks such as coal or wood burners, would be a safety hazard.  I also wanted to differentiate it from the BVLC locomotives, all of which are wood burners with diamond stacks.

My next step was to sort out the pilot.  I started by cutting off the HO scale pilot, leaving only the section sloping up from the underside of the chassis.  After cutting a section of 3.2mm square styrene to length, I filed it down to the same angle as the slope and glued it in place.

The pilot itself was originally from a Backwoods Miniatures conversion kit for the Bachmann HO scale 0-6-0.  The rest of that kit ended up as my saddle-tank-and-tender engine, BVLC no. 9.  Once I'd glued the pilot in place, I checked the coupler height.  Fortunately, it was correct the first time.

I used 3cm diameter PVC pipe for the boiler, cut so that it would sit flat on the footplate.  Two slots were cut in the sides, in order to allow the cab to fit over the boiler.

To form the number board for the smokebox door, I started by gluing a nail to a washer, then the washer to some 0.5mm styrene.  Once this was dry, I cut it out, making several cuts to get it as close to a circle as I could.  I then held the washer end against a large file, and twisted the nail between my fingers.  After a few moments, this produced a circular number board.

I built up the smokebox door from discs of styrene, with styrene strips and copper wire for the door hinge.  The nail from the number board was trimmed to length, then mounted in a hole drilled through the middle of the smokebox door.  I then put in the front and side walls for the side tanks.  The side walls are flush with the cab, and so no rear wall is needed.

While those were drying, I built the rear pilot.  After gluing two strips of 3.2x1mm styrene in an 'L' shape, I cut four sections of 1x1.5mm styrene.  Once those were glued in place, I put the L-shaped section on the bottom.

To finish off the water tanks, I added a top made from 1mm styrene along each side.  I then cut two sections of 0.5mm styrene.  These matched the curve of the boiler and went at the front, to complete the front wall.  Once these were dry, I used some 0.25x2mm styrene strip to make the boiler bands.  I also filled in the gap at the front of the cab, trimming it short enough to clear the mechanism but long enough to finish below a slot cut in the top of the boiler.  

With that done, I started on the firebox.  I glued some 0.5mm styrene to the rear of the pipe.  After it had dried, I used a hobby knife to cut around the top half, following the curve of the pipe.  I then cut straight down for the bottom half and used a file to tidy up the shape.  The firebox was then wrapped with some 0.25mm styrene to create the correct shape.

Now that the main body was completed, I turned my attention to the details.  I was able to obtain most of them from my shoebox of failed projects, but I didn't have a whistle casting to hand.  What I did have, though, was some brass rod of a suitable size, and some slightly larger brass tubing which just fitted over it.  After cutting the tubing to length, I glued it in place.  I then used a hacksaw to cut a small slot in the front of the whistle, and filed the top smooth.  For the valve handle I used 0.8mm copper wire, soldered into a hole drilled at the back of the whistle.  When the whistle had cooled down, I glued it in place atop the rear dome.

I made the cab doors out of 1mm styrene, cut to fit just behind the cab walls at the front and the trim at the rear.

In order to hide the bottom of the motor, I cut two 'firebox sides' from 1.5mm styrene.  I test-fit them before gluing, to ensure they would clear the rear driving wheels.

I made the water hatches using the same method as the numberboard, but with two washers instead of one.  I used 0.5mm copper wire to form the handles on top.

After adding some handrails, grab irons and other details, I test-fit the body on the chassis.  The headlight was one of the spare ones included with the Bachmann 2-4-4-2.  There were a few spots where body putty was needed, and I applied it before priming the model.  Now, all I had to do was wait for the DCC decoder to arrive.

In my next post, I'll outline how I built a caboose for the other end of the mine train.

[astrorealty-blog]

DRG BR 99.75 STEAM LOCO (2015 TOY FAIR EDITION) WEATHERED with DECODER AND SOUND (Some features only available when used with DCC.) CLICK ON LINK BELOW http://pizzatrains.com #carrera #lgb

[valiantharmonywitch-blog]

Essential Ingredient To think about Earlier than Beginning CPR Courses Dallas

Important Factor To contemplate Earlier than Starting CPR Courses Dallas

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[kootenaydivision]

ESU Loksound DCC Sound installation in a Life-Like C-Liner

ESU Loksound DCC Sound installation in a Life-Like C-Liner

It’s the Kootenay Division, ca. 1970 – that means a lot of Fairbanks-Morse/Canadian Locomotive Company power. I’ll be covering the H16-44s in another post, but this is about my C-Liners. C-Liners were only produced in N scale by Life-Like in a DCC incompatible format. There’s a good review on Spookshow.net detailing them – they’re great runners, powerful pullers, and you can’t drop a decoder into…

[priceabate-blog]

MRC 16 Bit Drop-In ALCO 539T HO DCC Sound Decoder 111705

$35.99

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