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interioras · 1 year
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beauty of diwan bed 8 design
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diwan Bed is a beautiful blend of tradition and modernity which will surely enhance the beauty of your living space. stood the test of time for centuries, and has won the hearts of many with its exquisite design and unmatched comfort. Read more
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sportyheroes · 1 year
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Jaisalmer: The Jewel of the Thar Desert
Today I’m picking favourites and I have no qualms about it. We spent a whole month travelling across India – 7 destinations in total – but the one that I’m still thinking about is Jaisalmer.
Located in the Thar Desert just 30 kilometres from the border with Pakistan means that getting to Jaisalmer was quite the journey – 18 hours by train from Delhi to be precise! – but it was worth it in the end to explore the famed Golden City.
We had a total of 3 days here and I would have gladly stayed a week if the rest of Rajasthan hadn’t been calling, so here’s a little glimpse at why I enjoyed this place so much and how you can too.
Get lost inside Jaisalmer Fort
The main attraction in this city is Jaisalmer Fort, but believe me when I tell you that this is a place you’re going to want to revisit time and time again.
I made it to Jaisalmer Fort three days in a row and I managed to see something new on each visit. The layout of the city makes the place feel like a bit of a maze, which means you can always get lost in a new direction.
Narrow, twisting alleys break away from the main road, leading you up and down crooked staircases, and then every once in a while these will spit you out along the fort’s outer walls where you can see across the city and off into the desert.
There is also no shortage of rooftop restaurants, so be willing to climb the extra three or four flights of stairs to enjoy a drink with a view, and then give your legs a break!
Shop for Rajasthani souvenirs
Oh, the shopping! There is a reason why my suitcase gained a few extra pounds in Jaisalmer. Certain sections of the fort are like a bazaar where you can find all sorts of little treasures. So what exactly did we find?
Well, Sam and I purchased a total of four wall hangings; my favourite was a white canvas with quotidian scenes embroidered in rainbow colours. We also picked up a few pillow covers with elephant designs in gold, pink, and blue. And aside from that, I came across an artist who paints bird and flower motifs on old weathered postcards with Hindi writing, so I picked up a small collection which I’d like to frame at some point.
I was also tempted by peacock doorknobs, carved statuettes and antique masks, but I had to draw the line somewhere! Suffice it to say that if you enjoy shopping, you’ll love Jaisalmer’s offerings.
Visit the Jain Temples
While wandering through Jaisalmer Fort, we also came across the Jain Temples. These structures date back to the 12th and 15th centuries and like most of the buildings you’ll find in the city, these too are made of yellow sandstone.
You may be tempted to walk past them especially if there’s a large tour group gathered outside, but trust me, it’s worth going in to see the craftsmanship. While the temples are relatively simple from the exterior, once you set foot inside you’ll enter a world of intricate stone carvings that carry your eyes from floor to ceiling.
Admission tickets can be purchased in the small square directly across from the temples. Just keep in mind that because these temples are active places of worship, they are only open to visitors from 8 in the morning until noon, so you’ll want to plan your visit accordingly.
Admire all the havelis
Haveli is the word used for old mansions found across India and Jaisalmer has a few worth seeking out!
Patwon ki Haveli: This is the most famed haveli in Jaisalmer. It is also the largest haveli in the city, but that being said, it’s a combination of 5 structures. The building was commissioned by Guman Chand Patwa, who was a wealthy jewelry trader, and because he had 5 sons he ordered the construction of 5 stories, one for each of his children.
Nathmalji ki Haveli: This haveli was built as the residence of the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Diwan Mohata Nathmal. The construction was carried out by two brothers who had a bit of a competitive edge. They both started building simultaneously at opposite ends and struggled with uniformity, which meant the building ended up having a bit of an irregular shape.
Salim Singh ki Haveli: This next one is nicknamed the Peacock Haveli. This 300-year-old structure was built on top of an even older haveli, and it is still occupied today by a descendant of its original owner.
Speaking of havelis, you can’t miss the Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum & Heritage Center, which was a former royal residence. You can do an audio tour, but I was happy to just wander around and take pictures.
And since we’re on the topic of architecture, if you come with a bit more time or are feeling particularly ambitious, you can also visit Bada Bagh, which is a complex north of Jaisalmer that contains royal cenotaphs (empty tombs) that look like dome-shaped pavilions. I didn’t get to visit this place but it looks beautiful in photos.
Go camel trekking in the Thar Desert
Since Jaisalmer is located in the middle of the Thar Desert, camel treks are the main excursion. There are two popular offerings that you can find across the town. The first is a sunset tour that involves driving out to the desert, doing a camel safari, having a fire-cooked dinner, and doing a bit of stargazing. The second option includes all of the above but also involves spending the night in the desert, typically sleeping outdoors around a campfire using mats and a sleeping bag.
Longer tours can be arranged – my husband Sam did a 4-day camel safari when he visited a few years back – but if you’re not into camping, then the sunset tour can give you a taste of what that’s like.
Another alternative to the camel safari is spending the night in a desert camp. These range from simple tented camps geared at backpackers to luxury tented camps that will make you feel like you’re glamping with the royals.
Take a boat ride on Gadisar Lake
Gadisar Lake is a manmade lake that was built in the 14th century in order to deal with the population’s water needs – because when  you live in the desert, water is a major concern!
Today the lake is a popular spot with visitors as you can rent paddle boats to take you out on the water. The lake’s shore is lined with temples and pavilions (some of them are even out on the water), so it’s quite scenic, especially at sunset.
Stay in a haveli-inspired hotel
If you want to feel like royalty, you need to book yourself into a haveli. We stayed at the Tokyo Palace Hotel and loved it!
I know the name is a bit of a geographic mismatch, but that aside, it’s a really cool property. The hotel was built in the haveli-style, which means you get a bit of Old World charm with all the modern conveniences.
We stayed in the Deluxe Room which runs you about $22 USD per night, and my favourite feature was the day bed, because check out that window! They also have 6-bed dorms starting out at $2 so there really is something for every budget.
Another thing that I loved about this hotel is that their rooftop allowed us to catch the sun rising over the desert and it was pure magic every morning. The sun rose with a bold and fiery intensity painting the sky deep shades of mauve and lavender, and most mornings a small group of guests would gather together to watch it quietly.
If that hotel is fully booked, you can find similar style accommodations at: Hotel Garh Jaisal Haveli, Hotel Helsinki House, or Hotel Pleasant Haveli. These are some of the top-rated haveli-style hotels in Jaisalmer.
And that’s a little taste of Jaisalmer. I hope these photos sparked your interest in the city; it’s a long way to get there, but to me, Jaisalmer is the jewel of the Thar Desert, so go!
Have you been to Jaisalmer?
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I arrived in Agra by train in the morning, got settled in at N Homestay, and at the suggestion of their guide/driver Mokul, I took the rest of the afternoon to visit Fatehpur Sikri- home of the Jama Masjid mosque and Mughal palace predating the Taj Mahal.  Little did I remember that the entrance fee for the Historic palaces had gone up to 500 INR, so I only had enough money for it, and to take the bus back to Agra (and maybe a bag of chips).  Lunch consisted of the leavings of my goody bag from Simla.  Luckily I did bring a scarf  (I had completely forgotten my hat) because the Jama Masjid is an active mosque.  I have also been using my water purification drops when filling my water bottles from the tap, and so far, so good.  One could go broke keeping up on drinking water here in India. Also, I paid $20 CAD for this water purification kit, so I might as well use it. TRAVEL TIPS TO FOLLOW, SO NECESSARY FOR SURVIVING FATEHPUR SIKRI.
Arriving in Agra, I knew right away I had officially arrived in India, and gone were the days of orderly, friendly, clean little towns.  It was a madhouse of Autorickshaws around the train station, and all of the drivers clamoured at me “taxi? taxi? hotel, miss? hotel?” Basically one has to say “No,” firmly and give an emphatic shake of the head about a million times or or ignore them completely running the gauntlet until you find your driver, – which will happen, seemingly by magic. After riding the regular public bus from Agra (very hot and dusty- bring a scarf just to put over your nose to filter some of it out), there are tour touts waiting for you at the little bus depot in Fatehpur’s bazaar.  If your hotel or homestay has a driver/tour guide and offers to take you to Fatehpur Sikri (hereafter “FS”) for 700 INR or suchlike cost- DO THIS!   Learn from my mistake.  I decided I didn’t want to spend the 700 INR for my own private autorick and tour, and simply took the 40 INR bus ride from Agra. I thought I was being really smart by forgoing the extra cost…
There is a direct path straight up from the bus depot in Fatehpour’s bazaar towards the gate to the mosque, but one is essentially walking a path of garbage, so I took the long way around and took a second look at the bazaar, which was full of vendors and services of every sort. Traffic slowed to a crawl those last 50 meters from the beginning of the bazaar and the bus depot. The road above the bazaar leading up to the mosque and palace grounds, though, is wide, free of traffic, and lined with ice cream and goodie vendors, so Indian families take full advantage of the refreshments before going into the so-called abandoned city.  Walking up the ramp to the entrance of the huge and extremely impressive Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate) entrance to the Jama Majid mosque, I couldn’t help but laugh at the frolicking and leaping goats combing the ramparts for goodies left by tourists.
As soon as I entered into the mosque, a young man calling himself a “guide” offered to show me around.  These guys (and there are a lot of them) are touts, not guides.  They will indeed take you around the mosque, they’ll show you all the different parts of the grounds and tombs, they have good information, and they will even take really nice photos of you and for you while on the grounds, and will be very pleasant- but they will conclude their tour at their own little blanket set out with the souvenirs they sell- usually carvings in soapstone or alabaster.  There’s nothing wrong with buying from them except they’ll give you the hard sell and you will have to haggle within an inch of your life, and there’s nothing wrong with not buying from them and tipping them for their time instead.  They’re not as happy with the tip as they would to sell you their stuff, but whatever.  Bazinga.  I saw all the parts of the mosque- was encouraged to do all the little things that people do when they visit, like tying a string in the lattice screen of the white marble tomb of Shaikh Salim Chishti and making a wish (NO TELLING), and genuinely enjoyed my tour.  I found the cemetery and the crowded ladies-only cemetery behind lattice screens interesting as the marker stones were very compact. The honour of being interred within the mosque was only conferred to family members of the saint. The white marble tomb with the reflecting pool before it, and single tree growing beside it within the broad expanse of the mosque complex courtyard was genuinely beautiful.  I explored the courtyard of the mosque once I left the young tout, and there is no angle from which this little building is not striking and a spot of visual coolness in the expanse of baking redstone.  It was also a constant hub of activity as people came to pay their respects, tie their string, make their offering of thrown perfume or rose petals and some rupees to the saint.  Directly outside a group of musicians crouched in the shade, playing and singing their devotions. I noticed that the tomb had gutters leading directly to the pool, so that rainwater would be collected there for both its beauty and utility.
Exiting the mosque from the King’s Gate, I then proceeded into the expansive palace grounds, paying the entrance fee at that point.  The architecture and gardens were unlike anything I had seen before (or would see again in India), especially the 5 tiered Panch Mahal, and it’s no wonder for King Akbar who lived here encouraged unique designs melding Islamic, Hindu, Christian and Buddhist elements and imagery in the decor. King Akbar decreed that each religion was to be respected equally, and to “seal the deal” he took a queen from each faith.  The special audience hall (Diwan-i-Khas) and the decorative pool in front of his palace use a quartered square design illustrating the new faith he developed, called Din-i-llahi (God is One).  Wandering around this place was genuinely enjoyable. There were lots of arcades in which to shelter from the sun, gardens to refresh the eye from all the red sandstone, and wonderful spots from which to view the surrounding farmlands.  Within the palace grounds, I also discovered the striped chipmunk-like squirrels, wild green ring-necked parrots and many songbirds and swallows (and pigeons) that inhabit India.  To sit in the shade from the softening afternoon sun and breeze, journaling and watching the parrots and other birds race from buidling to building to tree was a real joy.
I was really glad that I had come out to FS and explored these amazing buildings.  Until I was foolish enough to NOT run and catch the bus I saw leaving the bazaar as  I came down to the corner. “Busses run for another two hours,” I told myself, “I’ll grab a quick snack and catch the next bus.”  Famous last words.  I waited at the bus depot and no other bus arrived. I had a snack, wrote in my journal and exchanged a few pleasantries with a couple of the touts there who were brothers… and then it started getting dark.  The young Islamic touts started to look a little uneasy on my behalf and gently remonstrated me “Why didn’t you run for that bus?” Finally one of the young men said “I don’t want you sitting here after dark. Tourists have been stranded here before by the bus. I have seen it and helped them get back to Agra before. Maybe the last bus will be here at 5:45, but if not then you should let my driver friend take you back to Agra because none of the tourist taxis come here.”  This was factually correct and not an exaggeration on his part, I hadn’t seen a single white car with the blue and yellow “Tourist Taxi” emblem painted on the side since arriving in FS, and there weren’t even any Autoricks.  Two of the young touts  arranged someone to drive me back and they tried to quote me double the price of what my homestay driver had offered for the return trip. Boy was I mad at myself and a little annoyed with them as I tried to discuss the discrepancy with them.  When he finally admitted that what he was really including in the price was a commission for him and his brother who had both kept me company for two hours while I waited, and arranged my ride, my frustration vanished.  I was happy to give them a commission, but I was not happy about being ripped off for a drive back to Agra- qualitative or semantic difference, as either way I was out a lot more rupees than I wanted to be for the day, but I don’t have a problem with rewarding people for taking their time to help me.
As it was, there was a massive traffic jam on the road back to Agra, and my driver was fortunately able to get out of the jam before too many vehicles boxed us in from behind, so we took a link road around the blockage and made it back to Agra with only a little delay.  It was a bit of an adventure itself and when I experienced some acute culture shock (see next entry).  I tried to not kick myself too hard for having to pay so much money to get back to the homestay, but on the other hand FS is a good hour outside of Agra, and I was very relieved that I got back safely and in comparative comfort. Who knows when I would have got back to Agra if I had gotten on that bus. For all I know, it was the thing causing the jam.
Matriarch Naghma of N Homestay had a wonderful thali dinner waiting for me when I got back to their place, and was kind enough to sit and chat with me while I ate.  She told me the interesting history of her family home, how happy and content she was to share it with travelers, and how this was definitely the best part of her life with her sons grown and one of them recently married.  After eating, I was grateful to retire to my very spacious room, shower and wash my clothes and retire to bed.
Tomorrow is the Taj Mahal at dawn.
                    Fatehpur Sikri (Agra) Oct. 15 ’16 I arrived in Agra by train in the morning, got settled in at N Homestay, and at the suggestion of their guide/driver Mokul, I took the rest of the afternoon to visit Fatehpur Sikri- home of the Jama Masjid mosque and Mughal palace predating the Taj Mahal. 
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