#Menswear Fall Winter 2019

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1-Thom Browne Menswear Fashion Show, Collection Fall Winter 2015

2-damir doma fall winter 2010-2011

3-Ann Demeulemeester summer spring 2019

4-yohji yamamoto winter fall 2019-2020

[styleofdiamandis]

                 PHOTOSHOOT: MODZIK MAGAZINE

Modzik is a Paris-based magazine which featured Marina on their June 2019 cover! The photoshoot, which took place at the Hotel Grand Amour, was taken by Enzo Orlando.

Styling by Clélia Cazals, hair by Anita Bujoli and makeup by Helena Henrion, respectively.

We’re starting off strong with a very hard leather look. The black lambskin bomber jacket with shiny patchwork puff sleeves is from Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp’s Spring/Summer 2019 Haute Couture collection which was paired with a Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 paneled leather skirt.

As in accessories, M rocked a suede version of Agnelle’s leopard print gloves.

Dutch emerging designer label Ninamounah created Marina's Howling red patent croc-embossed over-the-knee Western boots for their Fall/Winter 2019 "Evolve Around Me" collection!

Such a dreamy shot! Here, M rocks a Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 beige cotton zip-up blazer with contrasting white peak lapel.

Her long crystal shoulder duster earrings are part of Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2019 lookbook.

It’s getting wild! Belgian emerging designer label LĒO created Marina’s cropped croc-embossed white patent leather jacket with swinghooks! It’s from their Fall/Winter 2019 collection titled “Trance”.

Both her tiger print silk pencil skirt (pictured in grey)...

...and leopard print brocade pumps with oversized buckles are from the Rochas Spring/Summer 2019 collection.

For the penulimate look, Marina lounges in one of the most eye-catching pieces from Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2019 runway show! As worn by Kendall Jenner, it’s the Zucca logo-embossed white leather oversized bomber jacket with large zip side pockets.

Her “Citizen” multi appliqué black lambskin leather gloves are fruit of the collaboration between French menswear designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi and Agnelle.

A pair of black patent leather ankle boots with round buckle detail and perspex heels from Mulberry's Spring/Summer 2019 collection completed the look!

And last but not least, Marina poses in the Ninamounah Spring/Summer 2019 Termite grey wool blazer bodysuit with baroque pearl buttons.

The rest of her look is from Dior’s spectacular Spring/Summer 2019 presentation. It includes her pleated ombré organza midi skirt...

...a single star and faux pearl curved gold-plated brass earring...

...an elastic polyester J’adior cross-over headband in beige (which she styled into a choker)...

...this stunning crystal leaf and gold brass logo bracelet...

...and, last but not least, beige cotton ankle wrap ballet flats with J’adior lettering.

[luarparadiise]

𓇼 𓈒 ˛ ⁺ Per Götesson Fall/Winter 2019 Menswear

[maneskinblog]

Valentino Menswear Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 17, 2018 in Paris, France

📸 Pascal Le Segretain/Edward Berthelot

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9.2: Artist Research - Grace Wales Bonner

Fig 1. Wales Bonner (2019) Autumn/Winter Collection, London.

Grace Wales Bonner launched the brand Wales Bonner in 2015 (Cook 2019), following her graduation at CSM in 2014, that originally focused on menswear but later expanded to include womenswear as well (Wales Bonner N/A). The Jamaican-British designer incorporates "European heritage with an Afro Atlantic spirit" (Wales Bonner N/A) and explores the identity of politics and black culture (Cook 2019) - redefining on black masculinity and what Britishness is while connecting her work to black diaspora (Nnadi 2019). Her works represent a new, multi-layered British identity - by being mixed race herself (English mother and Jamaican father), she wanted to convey the complicity of ethnic identity and race through her clothing line (Nnadi 2019). Wales Bonner does this by infusing Rastafarian crochet stripes and ornamentations from cowrie shells - ancient African currency - with British tailoring (Cook 2019). She stated: "I want to bring an Afro-Atlantic perspective to European luxury... It’s about valuing certain ideas around craft, and heritage, and tradition, and value all of these things in the same conversation." (Clark 2023).

Her works have not gone unnoticed. Her clothing has been worn by high profiled celebrities such as Megan Markle (for her first portrait with Prince Harry after the birth of their first child), Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, and FKA Twigs (Clark 2023; Cook 2019; Nnadi 2019). Having Megan Markle wear a Wales Bonner was depicted as significant in the black community. This was because Megan Markle, being mixed-race as well, is the first biracial member of the British royal family, and decided to wear the Wales Bonner brand - a brand that voices the racially marginalised at the front of its fashion (Cook 2019). Wales Bonner clothing also united black artists from other creative professions. In her Fall 2023 show during Paris Fashion Week, she cited a 1929 deco-period portrait of the Maharaja and Maharani of Indore as an inspiration of her work, and while the models walked down the runway, award-winning jazz trumpeter Herman Mehari was played (Clark 2023).

Being brought up in a biracial family, Wales Bonner stated how growing up she was looked for reflections of herself or reflections of her family (Cook 2019) in media and fashion. Her confusion in identity - being told she was too white for her black friends and too black for her white friends - sparked her interest of identity politics around race in her late teenage years (Clark 2023) which evidently has migrated into her fashion brand. In regards to her brand, she wants to increase the racial diversity of models, presenting her clothing on black or mixed-race models (Cook 2019). Due to the lack of representation of black models in the industry, part of her brand was formed in a reaction to it, especially black male representation (Cook 2019). Through her work she is "connecting to a lineage and a history where there are many examples of the very elegant, sophisticated characters that were part of a [historical] narrative that just weren’t being included.”

I enjoyed researching Grace Wales Bonner and what the Wales Bonner label stands for. I think it is great that she is including other racial heritages that are not mainstream, and giving exposure to how other cultures convey elegance and beauty. It was interesting to research about clothing representing ethnic and racial identity instead of class and gender, which has given me another outlook on dress. However, the history of fashion incorporating different cultures is very long and complex, and cannot begin to be summarised by just one contemporary fashion designer. Despite race not being part of my graphic media project, unlike class and gender, it has broadened out my knowledge on how fashion and dress can convey different identities.

References

Clark, M. (2023) The grand designs of Grace Wales Bonner. Fashion, GQ Magazine. Grace Wales Bonner: "My focus is on building an intuitively important luxury brand" | British GQ (gq-magazine.co.uk)

Cook, G. (2019) How Grace Wales Bonner is changing the face of fashion. Financial Times, The Financial Times Ltd. How Grace Wales Bonner is changing the face of fashion (ft.com)

Nnadi, C. (2019) 5 Reasons Why Grace Wales Bonner Is a Force of Fashion. Vogue. 5 Reasons Why Grace Wales Bonner Is a Force of Fashion | Vogue

Wales Bonner. (N/A) About About | Wales Bonner

[sian4chatsworth]

Gender

The spring/summer 2018 menswear shows are a prime example of the fashion industry shifting towards a gender-fluid space where skirts are not female wardrobe staples, but a garment to be worn-and enjoyed-by all. In Paris, Thom Browne sent an army of models down the runway in grey pleated skirts that aptly chimed with the newly adopted uniform of the boys in Exeter. At London Collections:Men the skirt offering expanded into highly elaborate dresses at Vivienne Westwood, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Edward Crutchley.

Spring 2016 saw Zara launch a 16-piece collection of unisex items, titled “Ungendered”, with males and females modelling all pieces in the campaign images. Selfridges’ concept space “Agender” - a “unique genderless shopping experience across fashion, accessories and beauty” - moves away from a separate “his” and “hers” experience across all brand levels. And ASOS is currently working towards a genderless style offering following the success of ASOS influencers wearing items purchased from both menswear and womenswear lines.

Theodora “Teddy” Quinlivan

Teddy Quinlivan was discovered by Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière in 2015, and came out as transgender two years later. She has since taken the modelling world by storm, with a résumé that includes Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Moschino, Haider Ackermann, Paco Rabanne, and Jeremy Scott.

Nathan Westling

Nathan has previously starred in many major campaigns for designer brands including Dior and Louis Vuitton. In March (two months into his transition), he opened up about the process to CNN Style. When asked about how he saw the future of his career expanding, Nathan told the outlet, “We’ll have to see how this story takes to fashion and how everything takes. I’m not worried about it. I think it’s going to be a good change and I’m excited for it. I’m really, really excited.”

He added, “It’s been an incredible journey, it’s been an incredible process and I’m just really happy to be on this path, and at such a young age, too. That’s such a blessing.”

Vogue reports that Nathan will walk in a handle of more runway shows throughout the month of June as men’s fashion weeks continue internationally.

Noah Carlos

Noah Carlos identifies as a gender non-binary model. Carlos was offered a modelling contract with IMG. Carlos has strutted across quite a few fall catwalks, including Coach, Rick Owens and Self Portrait, and is continually advocating for more non-binary casting on the runways.

Zaïr Cheseaux

The 22-year-old Swiss-Congolese model, who recently transitioned to male, was brought up outside the medieval town of Sion in Switzerland and made his first appearance for KNWLS in 2019. He has since made waves for Richard Quinn. His career highlight was AW22, when he walked for brands such as Hermès, Balmain, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Vetements and Acne Studios. “There’s something unique about Zaïr,” says Ben Grimes. “And it’s not about beauty or proportion, it’s about presence. He’s unabashedly himself.”

Harvard Referencing:

Fig 1. GROSESCU ALBERTO MIHAI/SHUTTERSTOCK. (2019) Teddy Quinlivan during Paris Fashion Week in February 2019. [Photograph] Available from: https://wwd.com/feature/chanel-hires-first-transgender-model-teddy-quinlivan-beauty-campaign-1203245652/ [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

Fig 2. ETHRIDGE,R. (2019) Nathan Westling - winter 2019. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/28187/1/nathan-westling-winter-2019 [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

Fig 3. GHERTNER, Z. (2020) Noah Carlos By Zoe Ghertner For Zara Accessories Fall-Winter 2020 Ad Campaign. [Photograph] Available from: https://fashionfav.com/fashion/zara-accessories-fall-winter-2020-ad-campaign/ [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

Fig 4. MONTAG, I/GORUNWAY.COM. (2022) Model: Zair Cheseaux. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear-/hugo-boss/slideshow/collection [Accessed: 27th September 2023]

NEWBOLD, A. (2017) In The Thick Of It: Exploring Cultural Shift Towards Gender Fluidity. [Online] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/gender-fluid-fashion [Accessed: 10th September 2023]

REDAÇÃO. (2020) 9 Transgender Models Who Are Changing The Face Of Fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/9-transgender-models-who-are-changing-the-face-of-fashion [Accessed: 22nd September 2023]

RUSSO, G. (2019) Model Nathan Westling Makes Menswear Debut. [Online] Available from: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/model-nathan-westling-makes-menswear-debut-after-transitioning [Accessed: 24th September 2023]

HOLZMAN,S. (2020) The Generation of Models to Watch Right Now. [Online] Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/g32801166/top-models-2020/ [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

FINANCIAL TIMES. (2023) The new supers:14 models changing the face of fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.ft.com/content/6988184e-36df-42b0-ad43-0af66368f15e [Accessed: 25th September 2023]

[dmchatsworthproject]

Diversity of Genders

What is Gender Diversity?

Gender diversity is an umbrella term that is used to describe gender identities that demonstrate a diversity of expression beyond the binary framework. Having to choose to express yourself as male or female is constraining. Some people would prefer to have the freedom to change from one gender to another, or not have a gender identity at all. Others just want to be able to openly defy or challenge more normalized concepts of gender.

Their identity is about presenting something more outwardly authentic to the world, whether they understand themselves to be differently gendered, or have no gender at all. It is important to recognize that many cultures throughout history have recognized gender diversity beyond masculine and feminine.

It is important to feel comfortable with what you look like and what outfit to wear that also represents your style. Representing the LGBTQ+ is a big thing that is still rising to this day to show the diversity through Gender and be proud for who they are.

www.youtube.com. (n.d.). Marco Marco Collection 2 FULL Runway Show. [online] Available at: https://youtu.be/C0eoePhFNIw [Accessed 22 Aug. 2023].

www.youtube.com. (n.d.). Geena Rocero - Unapologetic: A Filipina American Standing Up for Gender Equality. [online] Available at: https://youtu.be/iwOKbFY2Mz4 [Accessed 22 Aug. 2023].

Dugal, J. (2021). The Rise Of Gender Inclusive Fashion. [online] fashion abc. Available at: https://www.fashionabc.org/the-rise-of-gender-inclusive-fashion/.

Milan Fashion Week- Gucci

Gender fluidity is not just Harry Styles in a feather boa. It can also be a woman in an elegantly oversized double-breasted trouser suit, like the model who opened Gucci’s first Milan fashion week show in two years.

This collection celebrated the quieter beauty of women in menswear, rather the rule-breaking energy of men in dresses. Most of the 84 models, whatever gender, wore trouser suits.

Gucci, best known recently for putting men in feminine clothes, dressed women in masculine clothes in a menswear-based collection shown during womenswear fashion week on models of all genders. Surprising an audience with a tradition-disrupting gender-fluid look is as on-brand for modern Gucci as supermodels in cocaine-white dresses slashed at the hipbone sashaying down a mirrored runway were in a previous era of glory days, under Tom Ford.

the Guardian. (2022). A quieter gender fluidity marks Gucci’s return to the Milan runway. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/feb/25/a-quieter-gender-fluidity-marks-guccis-return-to-the-milan-runway.

Los Angeles Fashion- Versace

Donatella Versace’s bag isn’t necessarily creating pieces that can be worn by both men and women, it seems it was more Gianni’s style, but her latest Fall/Winter 2020 Runway collection at Milan Fashion Week was just that, gender-fluid, and gender-accepting. With funky floral suits and sweaters worn by both the male and female models, neon-pink electric suits, striped & mixed animal-skin jackets and of course the It Girls of the fashion industry (e.g. Kendall, Gigi, Kaia and Bella), it was quite the show this season. Coming off the amazing performance-and Versace outfits JLO wore for her SuperBowl performance, this collection was possibly outside of Donatella’s previous expertise, but a welcome change to Versace’s brand.

Callaway, R. (2020). Versace’s Gender-Fluid Runway at MFW. [online] Los Angeles Fashion - LA Fashion Magazine. Available at: https://thelafashion.com/2020/02/22/versaces-gender-fluid-runway-mfw/ [Accessed 9 Oct. 2023].

Celine & Saint Laurent- Fashion catwalk spring/summer 2019.

"Sexiness" on the runways doesn't reflect the way the world is evolving, and the industry needs to reconsider how it's conceiving and selling perceptions of women back to them.

Cathy Horyn in her joint review of the Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent collections at the recently-concluded Paris Fashion Week. Designers are not just arbiters of skirt lengths and bell sleeves; the most prominent ones can, through their clothing, encapsulate and influence female selfhood. Fashion can be approached as a delightful diversion, but it does not exist separately from the realities of what is going on in the world — and a lot going on in the world right now is unimaginably grim.

Over the course of this past Fashion Month, the runways unveiling the spring/summer 2019 collections featured some stereotypically "sexy" clothes — mini shorts, teetering heels, skin-baring pieces. Given the continuing conversations around misogyny, consent, and gender equality, contemporary identity is shifting — and so is the attire that goes with it.

Moroz, S. (n.d.). Why Are Designers Still Telling Women To Dress ‘Sexy?’ [online] www.refinery29.com. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2018/10/213154/fashion-month-2018-runway-misogyny-sex-me-too-controversy [Accessed 9 Oct. 2023].

[amberfaber40]

Lvmh acquisisce la Off-White di Virgil Abloh e Etro | iO Donna

Lvmh acquisisce la Off-White di Virgil Abloh e Etro | iO Donna

Acquisti che scuotono il segmento dei gruppi del lusso, già in pieno fermento

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Tempo di shopping per Lvmh. Dopo l’annuncio del ritorno dell’ex Celine Phoebe Philo con il suo brand, che avrà proprio una partecipazione nel gruppo di Bernard Arnault, il colosso del lusso torna sotto i riflettori per le sue ultime acquisizioni. A partire da Off-White, il marchio di Virgil Abloh, l’eccentrico stilista alla guida della collezione uomo di Louis Vuitton. Ma anche di Etro, il brand italiano ora nell’orbita del fondo L Catterton, partecipato dal magnate francese.Leggi anche› L’eredità e il ritorno di Phoebe PhiloL’acquisizione di Off-WhiteOff-White, che ha presentato la collezione autunno inverno 2021/2022 Laboratory of Fun il 4 luglio con una sfilata-concerto aperta da Bella Hadid in mini abito di velluto blu elettrico, oggi finisce nella galassia del gruppo d’Oltralpe. Una cessione di maggioranza, al 60%, della Off-White LLC, la società proprietaria del marchio omonimo fondato nel 2013 e diretto da Virgil Abloh, guida artistica della collezione uomo di Louis Vuitton dal 2018 – nonché lo stilista più seguito del momento. L’operazione, soggetta alle approvazioni di legge, dovrebbe essere completata in 60 giorni. Bella Hadid alla sfilata Off-White AI21/22.Leggi anche› Virgil Abloh è il nuovo direttore creativo della linea maschile di Louis VuittonUn’intesa promettente per ambo le parti: la partnership infatti prevede di sfruttare le competenze del designer al fine di collaborare con altre realtà di Lvmh, anche al di fuori dell’ambito moda. «Per quasi un decennio, abbiamo costruito Off-White come marchio generazionale, in grado di sfidare lo status quo. Ora potrà evolvere grazie alla potenza di Lvmh» ha dichiarato Abloh. «Non vediamo l’ora di supportare il team nel guidare la crescita di Off-White e di lavorare insieme per portare la sensibilità unica di Virgil a una gamma più ampia di categorie di lusso» ha detto invece Arnault. Una decisione storica, considerato che Abloh si appresta così a diventare il primo uomo di colore nelle fila di un grande conglomerato luxury. Leggi anche› Com’è andata la Paris Fashion Week maschile primavera estate 2022L’investimento in EtroLvmh, che controlla quasi un sesto del lusso mondiale e ha in portafoglio marchi che vanno da Bulgari a Dior a Fendi, continua quindi la sua strategia di ampliamento del portfolio. É notizia recentissima l’acquisizione, attraverso il fondo L Catterton Europe, della casa di moda italiana Etro. La società di private equity globale, partecipata dalla Financière Agache di Arnault, prenderà una partecipazione di maggioranza al 60% nella Maison, lasciando il restante 40% alla famiglia Etro.Una finalizzazione delle trattative iniziate nella primavera 2021: «dopo quasi 55 anni alla guida del marchio, crediamo che la collaborazione con L Catterton avvierà una nuova fase di crescita e di consolidamento del ruolo di Etro tra i fashion brands più longevi e prestigiosi» ha dichiarato il fondatore, Gerolamo “Gimmo” Etro (che assumerà l’incarico di presidente della società).Operazione “svecchiamento” per il lussoConsiderato anche l’ultimo acquisto in termini di tempo di L Catterton, il marchio di sandali Birkenstock, la strategia di Lvmh è chiara: puntare sui brand più innovativi amati dai giovani da un lato, investire sul prestigio tramite l’acquisizione di marchi classici, come Etro, dall’altro. Lo scopo? Svecchiare il mondo del lusso e renderlo più appetibile che mai, soprattutto per le nuove generazioni.Leggi anche› Il gruppo LVMH ha comprato Tiffany & CoUn’operazione già in atto, confermata anche dagli ultimi movimenti in atto negli altri grandi gruppi del lusso: la quotazione in Borsa di Ermenegildo Zegna, ad esempio. L’operazione avverrà attraverso la fusione con la spac Investindustrial acquisition Corp, una società-veicolo varata a fine 2020 per portare aziende italiane negli Usa. Zegna avrà un valore iniziale atteso di 3,2 miliardi di dollari, con una capitalizzazione di mercato prevista di 2,5 miliardi: ovvero, tanti soldi da investire in nuovi progetti.Ricevi news e aggiornamenti sulle ultime tendenze beauty direttamente nella tua postaIscriviti alla newsletterLeggi anche› Buon compleanno Re Giorgio. La sua carriera in 20 look memorabiliContinua inoltre a fare notizia il piano di John Elkann per costruire un potenziale conglomerato di lusso attorno a Ferrari, a partire dall’investimento in Giorgio Armani. Secondo rumors il rampollo della famiglia Agnelli si sarebbe offerto di acquisire una quota di minoranza nella casa di moda, anche se la proposta di alleanza per ora sarebbe stata respinta da re Giorgio, saldo alla guida e forte dei suoi appena compiuti 87 anni.iO Donna ©RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

[julienpoulidor]

Djibril Cissé attends the Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear Fall/Winter 2019-2020 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Sport. Soccer. Fashion.

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[martinsenmcdermott52]

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