#Modular Deburring Tools | Explore Tumblr posts and blogs

itsworn · 7 years ago

Text

MPR Racing Engines breathes new life in our Terminator Swapped 1994 Cobra

As Mustang enthusiasts, there’s a certain pride when we can go on and on about our car’s modifications. Aftermarket wheels, performance tires, bigger blower, steeper gears, lowering springs, subframe connectors, short shifter, stall converter, heavy-duty clutch, adjustable shocks and struts, cold air intake, and custom tune are just a few performance modification we love to brag about to whoever will listen.

However, one key modification we purposely left off that list is a built engine. We did that on purpose…well, because this is an engine build article, and also since the one thing we love to brag about the most is our Mustang’s powerplant. We like to wax poetic about our built engine’s bore size, piston measurements, head gasket thickness, compression ratio, cam specs, and the like. Going on and on about this stuff is a lot cooler than saying, “Nah, stock engine.”

We know there’s a certain pride with running a quick number, or making gobs of power with a stock engine, but we all know a built engine is in every Mustang owner’s future when performance is of utmost importance. It’s just a matter of time before a stock engine will give up the ghost.

For us, we purchased a Terminator swapped 1994 Cobra, knowing there could be a cooling system or head gasket issue. Our hope was that the previous owner had simply overfilled the cooling system, or that it needed to be properly burped. Once we received the car, and ran a few tests, our worst fears were confirmed – at the least we had a blown head gasket, with potentially more damage in store.

Once we diagnosed the blown head gasket, we needed to find a shop to help take care of the repairs; when it comes to timing four cams, we thought it best to leave that in the hands of experts. Unfortunately, at the time when we purchased the car it was right before the holidays, and then once January hits, most Florida shops are getting cars ready for the upcoming racing season. In other words, it was going to be a while before the car would be ready for the streets. However, we also wanted it done right, as well; we chose Power by the Hour Performance in West Palm Beach, Florida. Based on their schedule, they agreed to remove the engine and send it to MPR Racing Engines in Boynton Beach, Florida. Once the engine was removed, MPR found a couple questionable pistons – what started out as a head gasket replacement turned into much more and we decided to have MPR tear it all down and start fresh.

MPR machined our existing 2004 Cobra iron block back into fighting shape by adding fresh bearings, ARP fasteners, JE pistons, head gaskets, and valvetrain components before putting the long-block back together. This installment covers the short-block assembly, but we will have the long-block assembly, along with dyno numbers, and elaborate on the cause of the head gasket failure in a future issue. Until then, here’s the short-block build.

1. This is what we started with at MPR Racing Engines. The 2004 Cobra iron block was down to the bare bones after an align hone to make sure the main bores are square, along with a slight cylinder bore to 3.5593-inch. A stock 4.6 bore measures 3.552-inch so our new cylinder bore size is roughly .007-inch over stock. Therefore, our engine now displaces 282.02 cubic inches.

2. We relied on MPR’s Tim Eichhorn for our piston specs and ordered up a set from JE Pistons that featured a 3.558-in diameter, -10cc dish, 1.220cd, Four-Valve reliefs, and a corresponding set of piston rings. Most of those measurements are self-explanatory, but one that may need some explanation is the 1.220cd. This measurement is known as the compression distance, or compression height. This is the measurement between the center of the piston pin bore to the top of the piston. This measurement is important in any engine, but perhaps more closely scrutinized with stroker engines. Also shown here is the factory set of Manley forged H-beam connecting rods, which are being reused.

3. The basis for many modular engine builds is the legendary Cobra forged steel 8-bolt crankshaft. MPR polished the journals on our Cobra crank and balanced it to make sure it was good as new.

4. To keep our engine bolted together we chose ARP main studs, head studs, camshaft bolts, and rod bolts. MPR’s Tyler Eichhorn already has our engine’s main caps lined up and ready for installation.

5. Tyler started off the build by installing new Clevite main bearings, ARP main studs, and main caps. The ARP main studs were coated with ARP’s Ultra-Torque assembly lube to provide a more accurate torque reading.

6. Tyler holds the bearings while he taps the caps into place on the block. He’ll tighten the caps without the crankshaft in the block, and then measure to make sure everything is perfectly round. First torque sequence in 20 ft-lb on the mains, and then a final torque to 65 ft-lb. The sides will be torqued to 30 ft-lb with ARP assembly lube.

7. The side bolt adjusters are torqued to 8 ft-lb of torque before installing the ARP side bolts. The initial torque on the side bolts is 8 ft-lb, but then a final torque rating is made to 30 ft-lb.

8. Then Tyler mics the crank journals to check tolerances.

9. Tyler went over the clearances with his dad Tim to make sure everything looks good before assembling the short-block. From there, Tyler gets to take it apart and put it all back together; at this time, Tyler removed the bearings, debur them, and placed them in the hot tank (“Basically a huge dishwasher, Tyler says.”) before putting them back in with the crank. He will also number the bearings to make sure they go back in the same spot.

10. Checking the thrust, Tyler is happy the crank comes in at .006-inch.

11. Tyler uses assembly oil on the factory ARP studs and arrives at 50 ft-lb of torque. Tyler numbered the connecting rods when he removed them from the engine. He also makes sure to keep the bolts with the corresponding connecting rod, as well. He then measures bearing clearance with a Sunnen micrometer. Tyler engraves the cylinder number into each connecting rod, as well.

12. Tyler checks the piston pin for any burrs and uses assembly lube to insert the pin into the rod. He then inserts the pin halfway to get assembly lube on the connecting rod and pin before putting together the piston and connecting rod assembly. To finish up the assembly, Tyler uses the C-clip to join them together.

13. Tyler gets a little help from dad Tim inserting the C-clips, then putting the piston and rod together, and finally inserting the C-slip on the opposite side.

14. Tyler makes sure the oil ring is the correct spec; any gap with the oil ring would lead to excessive blow-by. He places the piston ring into the bore using an ABS Products piston ring squaring tool, then checks the gap.

15. To check oil ring tension, Tyler starts with #1 cylinder, cleaning each piston ring of any residue from shipping or during the trimming process. Tyler installs the piston rings with the gaps offset from each other. That is done to make sure the engine has adequate compression on start up before the rings have fully seated. For our boost level, Tyler has set ring gap at .022-inch on the top ring, and .024-inch on the 2nd ring. He then uses a fish scale to check oil ring tension. Yes, we said a fish scale. In a nutshell, Tyler is using the fish scale to measure resistance. Ours came in at 14 pounds, which is ideal for our boost level of between 15-20 psi. A higher boost level Tyler would like to see a higher number, but for our combination, 14 pounds on the oil ring tension is perfect.

16. Before inserting the piston/connecting rod for the last time, Tyler cleans each cylinder with lacquer thinner on a paper towel. Tyler makes a couple passes in each cylinder until the paper towel is basically free of residue. Then he’ll follow up with WD-40 on the same type of paper towel, which cleans each cylinder further, and also to help with corrosion. He’ll let each cylinder dry while he loosens the connecting rod bolts to ready the piston and connecting rod assembly for installation.

17. Prior to installing the pistons and connecting rods, Tyler makes sure #1 and #5 crank journal is pointing straight down, then spreads Total Seal assembly lube throughout each cylinder. He coats the connecting rod bearings with assembly lube prior to placing each assembly down the cylinder.

18. Tyler then tightens the ARP bolts to 50 ft-lb of torque. Then he moves to cylinders #2 and #5 and repeats the process. Tyler had a problem with something getting on the #6 connecting rod bearing so he took that one apart to remove a small piece of aluminum that had gotten on it, which caused it to bind on the crank journal. Tyler was able to remove the piece of aluminum and get everything back together properly. Tyler stresses the importance of keeping your engine build area clean to prevent this from happening, but as you can see, that stuff even happens to the best.

19. With the connecting rod/pistons installed, Tyler will check the side clearance on each, and piston-to-deck height on each cylinder. Each cylinder was between .009-inch to .010-inch negative deck height, which is good so we won’t have to run a thick head gasket.

20. With that, the short-block is done, and it looks amazing. It’s almost a shame to cover up this masterpiece, but in order for it to run, it still needs the heads, intake, exhaust and supercharger installed. During the next installment we will cover the rest of the engine build and its installation in the car. Stay tuned.

The post MPR Racing Engines breathes new life in our Terminator Swapped 1994 Cobra appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mpr-racing-engines-breathes-new-life-terminator-swapped-1994-cobra/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes

itsworn · 8 years ago

Text

How to Build A Bullet-Proof Coyote Engine For 1000-Plus Horsepower

With the release of the Coyote, Ford perfected the modular engine platform. Available for the past seven years, enthusiasts have done virtually everything there is to do with the powerplant. It has run 6s in the quarter-mile, won numerous road racing championships, and piloted drifters to podium finishes.

In earlier segments, we covered the block prep needed to reliably make more than 1,000 horsepower in a Ford Coyote engine. That was but a sneak peek of the intentions for this engine. Now, HOT ROD’s first Coyote engine build is ready to be assembled.

A final hone gets the block to the proper piston-to-wall clearance.

We turned to longtime Mustang engine builder, Tim Eichhorn, of MPR Racing Engines in Boynton Beach, FL, who has a successful history building big-power Coyote.

Machining

Tim balanced the brand-new, Ford Performance Boss 302 crank for the rotating assembly. There are currently no affordable aftermarket cranks for the Coyote because the factory 4340 forged steel stocker is plenty strong. Tim mentioned that even the old crank would be fine, but there is peace of mind in a zero-mile unit.

MPR swaps out the stock valve guides for a proprietary, bull-nosed, bronze guide.

MPR is segregated into three shops under one complex. One shop is reserved for disassembly and hot tanking, another for machine work, and the third for final assembly. Both the machining center and assembly room are climate-controlled to hold everything to tolerance. Ari Birchfield handled the finish hone on the sleeved block to assure the piston-to-wall clearance would come in at the required .005-inch. Next, the crank was placed on the lathe to get a second keyway cut.

The final block-machining operation was to clean up the mains with an align hone. Once the hone was completed, Tim spent a good 30 minutes deburring the block. “There’s a ton of sharp edges on the Coyote block and we make sure to knock them all down,” he explained. “We even find casting flash in the oil galleys and make sure they are all cleaned out.” After deburring, the block was hot tanked, installed on an engine stand, and rolled to the assembly side of the shop.

Tyler works on hand-honing the bronze guides to fit our Ferrea valves.

Tim’s son, Tyler Eichhorn, prepped the GT350 heads, pounding the factory valve guides out and installing proprietary, bronze valve guides along with Ferrea 1.470-inch, stainless intake valves and 1.250-inch exhaust valves. Next, he installed the COMP Cams valvesprings and lightweight tool steel retainers. Tool steel retainers have an increased fatigue life over titanium variants, and since the retainers are small on this overhead cam configuration, there were minimal weight savings to be had.

Assembly

With the cylinder heads complete and the block cooled down to room temperature, the short-block could be assembled. First, Tim assembled the main caps with the ARP main studs and standard Clevite MS-2292H bearings to check main bearing tolerances. Since this was a brand-new crank and only a slight cleanup was required on the block’s main journals, the standard diameter bearings fit perfectly.

Our new, stock Coyote crank with a second key added.

Now it was time to file fit the JE Pro Seal 1.0/1.2/2.8mm ring pack. While a 1.0mm ring might seem small for a big power build, the ultra-strong, carbon-steel ring will be durable and reduce engine friction. After fitting, the rings were mated to a set of JE custom pistons with a 10:1 compression ratio and some additional material engineered into the symmetrical skirt, FSR (forged side relief) due to the quadruple digit power goals.

Additional options included JE Pistons’ Tuff Skirt coating and Electroless Nickel (EN) coating, which hardens the piston, reflects heat like a thermal barrier, and helps prevent micro welding in the ring grooves if detonation occurs. A thicker-wall wrist pin with a DLC-coating was used for even more strength.

The pistons were hung on Wiseco BoostLine connecting rods––the first set of the new line of boost-ready 5.933-inch modular rods to leave the factory. The rods are not an H- or I-beam design but rather a new, three-pocket design that offers a claimed 60 percent increase in bending strength over an H-beam. As the name implies their application is big-horsepower, power-adder engines. Clevite CB-1442HXNK coated bearings, with plus .001 extra clearance were installed, and 75 ft-lb of torque provided the correct .052-inch of rod bolt stretch. MPR’s oil squirter block-off plates rounded out our short-block assembly.

Before continuing to the cylinder head work, there were a few bits needed for the front of the engine. The F-150 oil pump assembly is different from the Mustangs and needed changing. Both pumps come from the factory with powdered-metal gears that are prone to fail under a variety of conditions. To alleviate this problem, Livernois Motorsports supplied a set of billet gears. Another component that has been known to fail in high horsepower (primarily supercharged) applications is the main timing gear that drives both the left- and right-side bank’s timing gears. MPR has its own billet version that is a direct swap for the weak, stock part.

Tyler cuts the CNC’d Coyote heads for the larger diameter Ferrea valves. Each chamber is inspected to ensure the valves seal properly.

Proceeding to the deck of the block, Tim installed 11mm, ARP head studs. This engine was from a 2013 F-150 where Ford reduced the size of the head studs from 12mm to 11mm for that model year. They have since gone back to the 12mm variants. The heads were installed with JE Pro Seal MLS head gaskets. Because the block and heads had been decked, final compression calculated in at 10.68:1

COMP Cams supplied CR-series, stage-three blower cams that are plenty aggressive by mod-motor means. The CR-series requires the use of stiffer valve springs and uses a lobe design similar to 2015 and newer Mustangs. On naturally aspirated engines we’ve seen the CR-series cams pick up over 50 horsepower at the crank over factory Mustang cams!

New or old, MPR decks every head to assure they are completely flat.

Under the cams are a host of kits from Ford Performance. Previously, buying components for the Coyote was a pain. Now, Ford Performance has come out with a variety of kits designed for new and rebuilt Coyote engines. One includes all 32 rockers; another, all 32 lash adjusters; even a front drive kit includes everything from cam gears and chains to guides.

An MPR lock-out plate was used to remove all the unnecessary components from the VCT gears. All in all, a reduction of about four pounds was removed from the valvetrain! The cams were locked out at a 110-degree intake centerline and a 113-degree exhaust centerline. This will ensure the engine remains streetable. Livernois Motorsports supplied a set of billet aluminum primary chain guides as the stock, plastic guides can deflect and cause over a 10-degree variation in cam timing.

The zebra has mostly been skinned. The permanent marker clearly shows how much more the heads need to be decked.

The Final Bits

After degreeing the cams, Tim removed the soft, checking springs and install COMP Cams valve springs and cams. New, Boss 302 timing tensioners were installed, and the front of the engine was sealed up with a Ford Performance Mustang front cover. An ATI damper, already cut for two keys, was installed on the crank snout. It features a 20-percent overdrive and 10-rib configuration that will spin accessories faster than stock. Finally, a Ford Performance oil pan installation kit, and a Moroso increased-capacity, fabricated-aluminum oil pan, closed off the bottom end.

With the engine complete, it will soon be time to head to Westech Performance’s engine dyno to see how much power it can make!

Tim checks the main journals for adequate clearance.

Most MPR Coyote builds have factory oil squirters deleted; they are typically only left in for road race builds.

The gold standard: Coyote ARP main studs.

Hold that pose! Every engine builder’s nightmare when it comes to shooting the photo of the crank being dropped down in the block.

Tim step torques the ARP main studs and side bolts to a final torque value of 60 ft-lbs.

Tyler works on installing oversized stainless Ferrea valves.

COMP Cams provided an 26125CTS-KIT, which included valvesprings with 120 pounds of seat pressure, lightweight tool steel retainers, locks, and valvespring seats.

The MPR CNC’d Coyote heads are fully assembled and ready for installation.

Wiseco’s first set of 5.933-inch modular BoostLine connecting rods will take the big power planned for this engine.

JE Pro Seal piston rings are file fitted and deburred. They feature a carbon steel 1.00mm top ring.

These custom, JE Pistons featured an Electroless Nickel coating added material for strength, and a thick-wall, DLC-coated pin.

The pistons and rods are connected to the crankshaft via ARP 2000 rod bolts and torqued to 75 ft-lbs.

The completed short-block is Tim’s favorite part of the engine build because most of the hard work is completed.

The JE Pro Seal head gasket is slid over the 11mm ARP head studs. With the heads installed, the nuts are step-torqued to a final value of 85 ft-lbs.

Livernois Motorsports supplied a set of billet oil pump gears to replace the weak stockers. A new, Mustang oil pump is required on an F-150 engine.

In front of the oil pump is another gear that often fails, the powdered metal chain drive. MPR offers a billet steel version for this.

When making a lot of power with a lot of cylinder pressure, the majority of Coyotes will have the cams locked in place. MPR designed a lockout plate that gets rid of the unnecessary bits of the VCT system, saving around four pounds of steel in total. When running valvesprings with high seat pressures, upgraded secondary chains add another level of insurance.

Tim uses checking springs on the front two valves to degree in the Comp Cams CR-Series camshafts. These cams feature 239/245 degrees of duration at .050-inch with .516 intake and .514 exhaust lift. They installed at a 110-degree intake centerline and 113-degree exhaust centerline.

Once the cams are degreed they are removed and the four checking springs are swapped out. The Ford Performance lash adjusters and rockers are installed. Tim reinstalls the Comp camshafts and torques down the ARP cam cap fasteners.

Livernois billet chain guides eliminates deflection normally found in the stock guides. With deflection comes a change in cam timing. Ford Performance Boss 302 primary and secondary tensioners are used as they are stiffer than the standard Mustang/F-150 versions.

With the pick-up tube clearance checked, the Moroso fabricated-aluminum oil pan is installed. The pan is designed to hold two more quarts than stock, while also being able to fit into Fox body and S197 chassis Mustangs.

The Mustang front cover is installed first, followed by a 20 percent overdrive ATI damper. This piece comes with a second keyway cut into the hub and is standard issue on the Cobra Jet Mustang drag cars.

Tim poses with our completed Coyote. Next stop? Westech’s engine dyno!

Boost To Come

Wait, what? Yep, there will be a CSU blow-through carb atop this Coyote. And, to help support our 1,000hp plus power goals, a Vortech YSI-B will add copious amounts of boost.

Specs:

Short-Block

F-150 used block

Darton sleeves by Race Engine Development

Ford Performance Boss 302 crankshaft

Wiseco 5.933-inch length BoostLine connecting rods

Custom JE pistons with EN coating, skirt coating, and DLC pin

MPR Engines oil squirter block off plates

Livernois Motorsports billet oil pump gears

MPR Engines billet chain drive gear

ARP main studs and damper bolt

Clevite main and rod bearings

Moroso fabricated aluminum oil pan

ATI Cobra Jet 20 percent OD damper

Long-Block

JE Pro Seal head gaskets

MPR Racing CNC’d cylinder heads – factory F-150

Comp Cams valve spring kit with tool steel retainers

Comp Cams Stage III CR-Series blower cams

Ferrea oversized stainless intake and exhaust valves

ARP 11mm head studs and cam tower bolts

Ford Performance lash adjusters, rockers, chains, tensioners, and front cover

MPR Engines camshaft lockout plates

MPR Engines heavy-duty secondary timing chains

Livernois Motorsports primary chain guides

Sources:

MPR Engines Mprracingengines.webs.com 561-588-0188

JE Pistons Jepistons.com 714898-9763

Wiseco Wiseco.com 440-951-6600

Ford Performance Fordperformance.com

COMP Cams Compcams.com 901-795-2400

ARP Products Arp-bolts.com 805-339-2200

Livernois Motorsports Livernoismotorsports.com 313-561-5500

Ferrea Valves Ferrea.com 888-733-2505

Moroso Moroso.com 203-453-6571

ATI Performance Products Atiracing.com 877-298-5039

Mahle Clevite www.mahle-aftermarket.com 248-347-9700

The post How to Build A Bullet-Proof Coyote Engine For 1000-Plus Horsepower appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-bullet-proof-coyote-engine-1000-plus-horsepower/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes