Emily Blunt as Cornelia Locke in “The English” (TV Mini-Series, 2022).
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“I worked quite closely with Emily over two or three months in London, and she came up with the idea of having the traveling outfit be the color of a bruise—which is unusual, because riding outfits of the period were usually dark green or sometimes blue. Hers is purple, with a saffron-colored lining, which works for subliminal, symbolic reasons but also because it makes her stand out.” Multiple iterations of the corseted 1890s style were made, then distressed to differing degrees. “She’s got these amazing puffy sleeves,” De Gaye says with a laugh, “and the more time she spends in the saddle, the more deflated they get.” Cornelia’s only other fashion constant? A necklace containing a lock of her son’s hair along with his photograph, a common practice amongst Victorians in mourning.
— Phoebe De Gaye, costume designer for The English
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Three BAFTA TV Craft nominations for 'The Essex Serpent'
Costume Design Sponsored by Screenskills High-End Television Skills Fund
Amy Roberts – “The Crown” – Left Bank Pictures, Sony Pictures Television / Netflix
Becky Sloan, Joe Pelling – “Don’t Hug Me I’m Scared” – Blink Industries / All 4
Jane Petrie – “The Essex Serpent” – See-Saw Films / Apple TV+
Phoebe de Gaye – “The English” – Drama Republic, Eight Rooks / BBC Two
Production Design Sponsored by Microsoft
Alice Normington – “The Essex Serpent” – See-Saw Productions/ Apple TV+
Becky Sloan, Joe Pelling – “Don’t Hug Me I’m Scared” – Blink Industries / All 4
Chris Roope – “The English” – Drama Republic, Eight Rooks / BBC Two
Kave Quinn, Tim Blake, Stella Fox, Penny Crawford, Emily Norris – “Pistol” – FX, wiip / Disney+
Titles & Graphic Identity
Balázs Simon, BBC Creative, Gas Music – “Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics” – BBC Sport, Blink Ink, Gas Music / BBC Two
Peter Anderson Studio – “Bad Sisters” – Merman, Abc Signature/ Apple TV+
Tom Hingston, Markus Lehtonen, Sam Norris – “Life After Life” – House Productions / BBC One
Yu+Co – “The Essex Serpent” – See-Saw Productions/ Apple TV+
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A nice article in Vogue about the costume design for “The English”.
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About
Hi there! I started this blog because I adore this series, first and foremost, but also because I fall more and more in love with what Phoebe de Gaye created for seasons one and two each time I rewatch. Which is quite often given this is my top #1 comfort show. Yes, the brainrot is real.
That being said, please keep in mind that all the analysis over the costumes and all the meta written here are my own opinions on the matter, and while those might be informed by my academic and on-the-field background in both costume and fashion design, you don't have to agree with what I say. You might have reached different conclusions, which are as valid as mine.
I would love to say I will update the blog on a weekly basis, but posts will come in as regularly as I can manage. You know: work, life, capitalism hell, etc, but your input via ask is always welcome. Do you want me to talk about a particular dress or have noticed something while watching? Are you writing fanfic and are struggling with clothes and their descriptions? Hit me up! I might not respond immediately, but will be delighted to help you out.
Note that unless stated otherwise or the sources are mentioned in their respective posts, all screencaps, photo editions and GIFs have been made by me. Note, too, that no copyright infringement is intended, and that images are used only for educative purposes.
If you were wondering about season 3 because it is not mentioned above, I regret to inform you I won't be covering it in this blog. Why? It is quite simple, really: I didn't enjoy it at all. To write about its costumes I would have to watch it all over again, several times, and that is not going to happen. Moreover, I disliked pretty much all the costume choices for that season, among many other things, and I don't like to dogpile on content just for the sake of it, specially not when I know there are fans in this fandom that genuinely enjoyed the last season. So, in short: I won't spew senseless vitriol about something I don't like, and you won't have to suffer through an endless rant about something you might enjoy. It's a win-win.
Note that this is a sideblog, and thus I cannot follow from here; you can reach me through my main blog at @montalais.
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Emily Blunt as Cornelia Locke & Chaske Spencer as Eli Whipp in The English (TV Mini-Series, 2022).
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Jacket inspired by The Jackobean Waistcoat, The Musketeers, 2014
Portrait of Margaret Layton, c.1620 by Marcus Gheeraerts The Younger
Margaret Layton's waistcoat (as seen in portrait), made 1610-1615, altered 1620
Jacket worn by Alice Sanders in The Musketeers series 1, she played the working class character Fleur Boudin who is being educated in secret, although it is not a garment that was worn by the lower classes at this time it suits the character. It was also worn by Marianne Oldman in series 2 more historically accurately as the aristocrat Catherine. Costume design by Phoebe De Gaye
Jacobean Waistcoats were heavily embroidered and can be seen in portraits of the era, many waistcoats still exist today and are a great reference to the materials and techniques used in embroidery of the 17th Century. Margaret Layton’s linen waistcoat is embroidered with coloured silk threads, gilt-silk threads and spangles, it uses the stitches: detached buttonhole, stem, plaited braid, chain, couching, dot stitches, knots and speckling.
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