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qocsuing · 2 years ago

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How to Crimp JST Connectors for 3D Printers

When I first started down the rabbit hole of 3D Printer upgrades, one of my earliest projects was installing a V6 hotend on the Anet A8. It came with a small, 30mm cooling fan and plenty of wiring length was included, but it didn’t have a plug for the board. This conundrum introduced me to the art of crimping my own JST Connectors.Get more news about jst connector production,you can vist our website!

Sure, there were perhaps better options on the table that would cost less upfront. I could just splice the new fan to the original fan’s wiring, or solder the wires to the board, but I prefer to keep my setup clean and professional.

After some Google research, it turned out almost every 3D Printer board uses JST Connectors, the XH series to be exact. Better yet, they are easy enough to make on demand. For a one off weekend project, this probably isn’t worth the expense of parts and tools. But for hobbyists doing frequent upgrades or those running home based printer farms, we can certainly benefit from crimping our own JST connectors as needed. What are JST Connectors? JST Connectors (Japanese Solderless Terminal) are an extensive family of electrical connectors, often used in hobbyist and consumer products. There are about 500 different types, and they are found in battery packs, RC electronics and in our case, 3D Printer circuit boards. The most confusing aspect is their naming conventions, which have a range of suffixes like SH, VH and XH just to name a few. Each type has a different shape and spacing between pins, but they are also designed for use with different applications, intended for a specific wiring gauge, current and voltage.

JST-XH Connectors The XH series of JST Connectors are a small, versatile crimp style connector that is rated for use up to 3 Amps on 22 AWG wiring. They are specifically made for wire to board connections, found on our cooling fans, stepper motors, endstops and so on.

This particular type is visually distinguished by (2) arrow looking prongs on the backside, which help secure it when plugged in. That helps maintain a good electrical connection during use, without any concern of loose plugs falling out. 1. Strip the Wire If you’ve ever worked with wiring before, you’re probably already familiar with how to strip it. For those doing this for the first time, we’ll take a brief look at how to do it. Since our wiring is insulated, we need to strip a bit off the end to expose the metal strands inside. These will be crimped inside of the JST connector, and when plugged in to the board, the metal to metal contact makes an electrical connection, providing power, ground or signal.

Using the wire strippers, insert about 3mm of wire in the teeth marked 22 AWG. Squeeze the handle grips together and then twist back and fourth, which helps cut through the insulation material. Pull back on the wire and this should strip away the coating, leaving you with bare wire strands to use. 2. Crimp Terminals JST Connectors use a small metal crimp terminal for stranded wire, with 2 sets of wings that wrap around and grip it in place. When you buy a JST Connector Kit, these come as strips, designed to feed in to an industrial machine. For DIY purposes, we will just snap them off and crimp by hand.

When I first started out, I was using needle nose pliers to bend each wing in to place. In theory it’s doable, I even managed to make a few decent ones, but the sheer frustration of trying to fold tiny metal prongs around small AWG wiring left me beyond frustrated. This is one of those situations where it’s absolutely worth it to use the right tool for the job. 3. Connect Plugs With our wiring crimped and ready to use, all we have left to do now is insert it into the JST connector plug.

JST Connectors Terminal Example JST Connectors Assembled Now, the back of our Crimp Terminal has a flared metal wing sticking out, this is what holds it in the JST Connector housing. The white female connector shell has slot openings on one side, and when inserted, the wing pops through and locks the wire in position.

Make sure to line up that flared wing with the slot, then go ahead and push it inside. As long as the Crimp Connector shape wasn’t damaged in the previous step, it should slide right in and sit securely in place. Gently tug on the wire to check that it’s snug, then repeat the process until your JST Connectors are finished.

#jst connector production

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equiptest · 3 years ago

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What’s Spring-Loaded Contact Probe and What are They For?

What is a Spring Loaded Contact Test Probe?

Spring-loaded contact test probes are also referred to as Pogopins, Contact pins, fixture pins, spring pins, test pins, and bed of nails.

To make contact with various test points on Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs), components, and wiring fields, spring contact test probes are used. The probes may test connector-cable systems when they are used in specialized test modules. The test probes can also be used as a charging contact or in control engineering units.

A tubular barrel, a spring, and a plunger are the components of a spring-loaded contact test probe. Different tip styles and spring tensions are available for plunger tip styles. The test surface is best-contact guaranteed.

Additionally, probes can be fixed inside housing units (receptacles) where an electrical connection is made. Also, makes it simple to remove the test probes for repair or replacement.

There are several applications for contact probes. Here’s a summary:

ICT/FCT series - Probes for fixtures. Standard ATE probes for different centers

Short Travel Probes/Battery contact series - Limited travel compact probes. Frequently used as a battery contact

Interface Probes - Interface between the fixture and test system are usually realized by this option

Pneumatic Probes - For the limited access, selective contacting of a single test point

Threaded Probes (screw-in) - Threaded to provide a secure fit. Used to test wire harnessing in modules.

High Current Probes - Used for applications requiring a high current.

Switch Probes - Special probes with integrated switch elements are mainly used for presence tests.

Push Back Probes - During the pushback of connectors, the tight seat of the connector elements is verified.

Because of their numerous benefits, spring-loaded contacts have grown to be a favorite among engineers. And they could be benefiting you.

Advantages of Spring-Loaded Contact

Solderless inter-connections

Easy integration into systems

Designed for durability

Misalignment accommodation

Consistent contacts

High Vibration Tolerance

Easy mating with other components

Perfect for blind mating

Self-cleaning components

Excellent contact for cable termination

Diversity of designs

Just Leave it to us, we have it covered!

Every design has unique specifications, and we are able to create the spring-loaded contacts you need to bring your idea to life.

We specialize in precision machined components, thus we are the experts in the industry when it comes to spring-loaded connections. We give you the products you want for your unique design needs.

Get your every component as per your need at https://equip-test.com/

#Spring-loaded contact test probes

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ewcswires · 3 years ago

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What Makes Marine Battery Cables and Terminals So Special?

Owning a boat requires a lot of work if you want to keep it in top shape for the next outing. Washing and waxing the fiberglass hull, cleaning up the bilge so you can spot leaking fluids, lubricating where needed, flushing your engine…

However, one of the most important things to be concerned about is making sure your electrical system works properly. You really don't want to have a power outage when you're away from the shore. Your electrical system not only keeps the lights on in your boat but also pumps life into your engines and powers vital instruments like your navigation and comms equipment.

These systems are relatively easy to maintain on land. However, the marine environment puts tremendous amounts of pressure on your electrical systems in the form of humidity, corrosion, constant vibration, and exceptionally common instances of “Murphy's Law” at play.

Being aware that anything that can go wrong will go wrong, boat owners are forced to be proactive and make sure they solve problems before they happen. So, installing dedicated marine battery cables and terminals is essential if you want your electrical systems to work regardless of what the open sea throws at it.

But, what's the difference between regular wire and marine battery cables and terminals?

In general, wires and cables should be able to carry a current load around an electrical circuit. The best material for this is copper as this material is a highly efficient conductor. However, copper is highly vulnerable to corrosion, meaning that any exposure to the marine environment will chew it up faster than you can say “ready to set sail”. Moreover, copper wires are usually too rigid, which means that the constant rocking of a boat can progressively loosen soldered connectors and terminals.

Marine battery cables and terminals are specifically made to withstand all these conditions and still be easier to install and maintain. Marine-grade wire has a higher strand count, which means that it is extremely flexible and can be driven through narrow and constrained environments usually found on boats. They are also more stable, even under constant vibration and movement. Each strand inside marine battery cables is individually tinned for maximum corrosion resistance, which gives them their typical silvery look.

On the other hand, marine battery terminals are solderless, reducing the amount of labor required to install or replace the wiring. You won't find the usual plastic or PVC sleeves found in automotive-grade terminals. These are replaced by nylon sleeves that provide increased crack, puncture, and corrosion resistance. Their conductors are not made of bare copper but from tin-plated electrolytic copper which reduces power loss, and increases corrosion resistance. They also provide unmatched mechanical connectivity through a tightly insulated wire crimp.

As you can see, there are important differences between automotive-grade wiring and marine battery cables and terminals. If you want to find marine-grade electrical supplies, we recommend EWCS Wire. They have everything you need for your next marine electrical project in one place. If you want to know more about their high-grade marine battery cables and terminals, call them at 800-262-1598 for further assistance.

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bdelectronics · 3 years ago

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JST | BD Electronics

JST is dedicated to excellence in connection technology and has been a global manufacturer of high-quality (ISO-9001/QS-9000) subminiature connectors since 1957. Its product offerings consist of Wire-to-Wire, Wire-to-Board, Board-to-Board, Flex/Flat Cable, Memory connectors, Solderless terminals, chain terminals, shunts & application tooling.

JST has dedicated engineering centers that offer different services such as design & development, prototype & pre-production manufacturing, and electrical & environmental testing capabilities. All of these have contributed to the growth of rewarding partnerships with its valued customers.

Its reputation for innovation and excellence has kept its position as one of the top ten connector manufacturers in the world with annual sales of approximately 100 billion.

JST’s connectors have often enabled these dramatic improvements in size and function. The company has cultivated its growth and rewarding partnerships through production flexibility, innovative product development, production engineering, quality assurance, value-added solutions, and responsiveness to customer needs.

The following are the applications of JST products:

JST connectors are indispensable in various types of products. Electronics hobbyists and consumer products commonly use these conductors for rechargeable battery packs, battery balancers, battery eliminator circuits, 3D printers, and radio-controlled servos.

Where to buy JST connectors and interconnects:

The website of JST shows a number of sales representatives in the US, Europe, and Asia. Customers can also source JST connectors, interconnects, and cables with reliable electronic distributors such as BD Electronics.

for more information, you may visit: https://bde-ltd.com/manufacturers/jst/

#electronic componenets #JST connectors #european quality connector #electronic parts #JST distributor

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grassroutes · 5 years ago

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Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console

Our verdict of the Retroflag GPi Case: This straightforward retro-style portable gaming case for the Raspberry Pi is easy to assemble, with a collection of retro gaming platforms and extra buttons on the back, useful power switching avoids unplanned shutdowns. It's the best Gameboy-like Raspberry Pi gaming project around.910

With the explosion of retro gaming, many gamers looking for a shot of nostalgia have turned to the Raspberry Pi. Compatible with most emulation systems, it is as ideal for playing Nintendo 64 games as it is with Atari 2600 titles.

But it lacks portability, which is where the Raspberry Pi Zero comes in. Half the size of the standard Raspberry Pi boards, the Zero is the hub of many portable retro kits, mostly based on the Nintendo Gameboy.

We’re looking at one such kit, the Retroflag GPi Case from AKNES. How does it improve over similar kits and 3D printed DIY builds?

What You Get in the Retroflag GPi Case

Cracking open the box, you’ll find a GPi Case, the Gameboy-like handheld console with a built-in display.

There’s also a tote bag, heatsink, USB power cable, a screwdriver with reversible heads, and two sets of four screws. A larger case is also included for carrying the GPi Case and any additional bits and pieces. Oh, and there’s a free GPi Case-keyring, and detailed instructions.

Note that this kit ships without a Raspberry Pi Zero. You’ll need to provide your own.

Raspberry Pi Zero and Zero W Case, Retroflag GPi CASE with Retro Handheld Game Console and Safe Shutdown - with Carring Bag, a Keychain Piece, Heatsink Raspberry Pi Zero and Zero W Case, Retroflag GPi CASE with Retro Handheld Game Console and Safe Shutdown - with Carring Bag, a Keychain Piece, Heatsink Buy Now On Amazon $69.99

The GPi Case itself features a D-pad, ABXY buttons, and Select and Start. Two additional buttons have been added to the back of the case. A headphone port is found at the bottom of the console, while an Off/On switch is at the top. A volume wheel is on the right side; the power jack plugs in on the left, alongside the brightness wheel.

Around the back, the GPi Case has a battery hatch, supporting 3xAA batteries. Hidden in here is a Safe Shutdown switch; above this, a micro-USB port for firmware upgrades.

Finally, you’ll find a removable “cartridge” on the back of the GPi Case. Not quite as big as a Gameboy cartridge, this device holds your Pi Zero. An operating system can be installed on a microSD card. A small door covers the card slot on your Raspberry Pi Zero, devised to prevent the card getting lost.

While powered by a Raspberry Pi Zero, the GPi Case has its own hardware inside. Weighing 183g and measuring 135x81x32mm, the GPi Case also includes a 2.8-inch color IPS display.

Assembly is solderless, and supposedly simple—all you need to do is insert a Raspberry Pi Zero.

You’ll Need Your Own Raspberry Pi Zero—But Which One?

Several versions of the Raspberry Pi Zero have been released. The Zero is a slimline Raspberry Pi, half the size of the main version, with a 32-bit 1Ghz CPU and 512MB of memory. Along with a micro-USB power input, the card features a micro-USB port and microSD slot for booting an operating system.

The original version launched for just $5, although later versions are twice this much. Since first launching in November 2015, three main iterations have been issued:

Raspberry Pi Zero 1.2: the basic model, with only USB connectivity. A 1.3 revision appeared in May 2016.

Raspberry Pi Zero W: released February 2017 with an MPI camera interface, Bluetooth 4.1 BLE, and b/g/n single band 2.4GHz Wi-Fi.

Raspberry Pi Zero WH: another wireless version, this time with GPIO pins.

Sadly, the Raspberry Pi Zero WH isn’t compatible with the GPi Case. However, the original Pi Zero models and the main W board will all fit.

A Choice of Retro Gaming Platforms

The build starts by flashing your preferred retro gaming platform to the Pi Zero’s microSD card. Four systems have been prepared for the GPi Case:

Recalbox: perhaps the most popular retro gaming platform for Raspberry Pi.

Lakka: basic retro gaming front end that can be customized with themes.

Batocera: popular Linux retro gaming platform.

Supreme Retro Gaming: a vast bundle of front ends (EmulationStation, AttractMode, Pegasus), support for 101 systems, 96 game collections, 42 system tweaks, and 27 display themes. Use this if you just want a quick start with games already provided.

These are dedicated builds available from download.retroflag.com/.

Some customization scripts are also available from the same source.

GPi Case Patch: routes display output through GPIO for Recalbox

Safe Shutdown and Safe Reset: this script can be used in conjunction with the Safe Shutdown switch

Assembling the GPi Case With a Raspberry Pi Zero

Putting the GPi together is stunningly straightforward and quick. Everything is perfectly designed so that you can effectively slot in a Pi Zero, boot up, and play.

Most of the GPi case comes ready-assembled. However, you’ll need to insert your Raspberry Pi Zero. This is housed in the removable “cartridge” which is fitted with an adaptor board. A micro-USB power connector is attached to the adaptor, along with a row of 40 GPIO pogo pins. These contact the Pi Zero’s GPIO array, for full power and integration with the main GPi Case.

Installing the Pi Zero requires first opening the cartridge section, flipping the adaptor board out of the way, and plugging the micro-USB power connector into the PCB. After placing the heatsink on the Pi’s SoC, place the Pi in the cartridge. As a guide, the microSD slot lines up with the door in the side of the cartridge.

Four screws secure the Pi Zero. Once fastened, flip the adaptor board over, lining up the holes with the mounting points. The back of the cartridge can then be attached—this snaps into place with some well-situated catches.

Finish by screwing the back onto the cartridge, then insert it into the GPi Case. You’re ready to power up and start gaming. Note that when the power is switched to “On”, the cartridge is locked in place. This precaution prevents the Pi Zero being removed while the GPi is powered up, protecting the PCB and microSD card.

Powering the GPi

With the case assembled, it’s a good idea to stick some batteries in. You can use the DC power input, although the USB-to-DC cable is short so motion is restricted. Note that the DC in is not connected to the battery compartment; rechargeable batteries won’t be charged in this device, although you can still use them.

Just be sure to stick to batteries with lower voltages as per standard shop bought R6 AA batteries. The device requires 5V so don’t exceed this.

Retro Gaming With the GPi Case

Most of our testing was with Lakka. While it offers a more basic, menu-driven experience, Lakka is tried and tested, and gives good results with this setup.

We also tried the Supreme Retro Gaming bundle, which perhaps offered too much choice. Presentation is slick, however, offering a modern console-like experience—quite a contrast to Lakka, While SRG is easier to use, it’s a large download requiring at least a 16GB microSD card to be usable.

With games up and running, you’re reliant on the D-pad and ABXY controls. R and L trigger buttons are also provided for extra control.

Regardless of which platform you choose, there is a more satisfying experience with console games than those intended for computers. Nintendo Gameboy and Gameboy Advance (GBA) titles in particular play really well—hardly a surprise.

There is some advantage to using the Pi Zero W, namely in easily copying new game ROMs to the device. Just make sure it’s connected to your wireless network and there’s no need to remove the SD card.

Setting up a secure SSH FTP connection (SFTP) in a tool like FileZilla lets you easily add and remote ROMs. You just need to be sure you’re using the right username and password for the retro platform of choice. SSH can be enabled within the software settings.

Unless you’re reinstalling or installing a different OS, you shouldn’t need to eject the microSD card.

The GPi Is Moddable, Too

Since its release several cool modifications have been released for the GPi.

For example, you can find hacks online that add built-in battery charging to the GPi. Meanwhile, a particularly impressive addition to the GPi is the GPiMate. Rather than use a Raspberry Pi Zero for your GPi, this module is designed to house a Raspberry Pi Compute 3+. Slightly larger than a Pi Zero (the cartridge is correspondingly large), this brings quad-core processing to the console.

The Best Gameboy-Like Raspberry Pi Case Available

We’ve seen a few portable retro gaming systems based on or inspired by the Raspberry Pi. The Retroflag GPi Case stands out in the way it relies on the popular board. Plenty of devices start off with a Pi as proof off concept, then move onto dedicated boards.

The GPi Case retains the Pi Zero as an integral part of the design and build. Meanwhile, the assembly is simple enough that anyone from around 11 and above could build it.

While there is an argument for a better power solution, the same could be said of the original Gameboy. Fortunately, the power scripts and hidden switch make power issues manageable, avoiding the data loss and corruption seen with other portable Raspberry Pi projects.

The display is surprisingly clear and crisp for its size, the buttons responsive, and the select of retro gaming platforms encouraging. If you’re looking for a Raspberry Pi-based retro gaming kit you can take anywhere, start with the Retroflag GPi Case.

Enter the Competition!

Retroflag GPi Case for Raspberry Pi Zero

Read the full article: Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console

Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console posted first on grassroutespage.blogspot.com

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droneseco · 5 years ago

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Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console

We’re looking at one such kit, the Retroflag GPi Case from AKNES. How does it improve over similar kits and 3D printed DIY builds?

What You Get in the Retroflag GPi Case

Cracking open the box, you’ll find a GPi Case, the Gameboy-like handheld console with a built-in display.

Note that this kit ships without a Raspberry Pi Zero. You’ll need to provide your own.

Around the back, the GPi Case has a battery hatch, supporting 3xAA batteries. Hidden in here is a Safe Shutdown switch; above this, a micro-USB port for firmware upgrades.

While powered by a Raspberry Pi Zero, the GPi Case has its own hardware inside. Weighing 183g and measuring 135x81x32mm, the GPi Case also includes a 2.8-inch color IPS display.

Assembly is solderless, and supposedly simple—all you need to do is insert a Raspberry Pi Zero.

You’ll Need Your Own Raspberry Pi Zero—But Which One?

The original version launched for just $5, although later versions are twice this much. Since first launching in November 2015, three main iterations have been issued:

Raspberry Pi Zero 1.2: the basic model, with only USB connectivity. A 1.3 revision appeared in May 2016.

Raspberry Pi Zero W: released February 2017 with an MPI camera interface, Bluetooth 4.1 BLE, and b/g/n single band 2.4GHz Wi-Fi.

Raspberry Pi Zero WH: another wireless version, this time with GPIO pins.

Sadly, the Raspberry Pi Zero WH isn’t compatible with the GPi Case. However, the original Pi Zero models and the main W board will all fit.

A Choice of Retro Gaming Platforms

The build starts by flashing your preferred retro gaming platform to the Pi Zero’s microSD card. Four systems have been prepared for the GPi Case:

Recalbox: perhaps the most popular retro gaming platform for Raspberry Pi.

Lakka: basic retro gaming front end that can be customized with themes.

Batocera: popular Linux retro gaming platform.

These are dedicated builds available from download.retroflag.com/.

Some customization scripts are also available from the same source.

GPi Case Patch: routes display output through GPIO for Recalbox

Safe Shutdown and Safe Reset: this script can be used in conjunction with the Safe Shutdown switch

Assembling the GPi Case With a Raspberry Pi Zero

Putting the GPi together is stunningly straightforward and quick. Everything is perfectly designed so that you can effectively slot in a Pi Zero, boot up, and play.

Powering the GPi

Just be sure to stick to batteries with lower voltages as per standard shop bought R6 AA batteries. The device requires 5V so don’t exceed this.

Retro Gaming With the GPi Case

Most of our testing was with Lakka. While it offers a more basic, menu-driven experience, Lakka is tried and tested, and gives good results with this setup.

With games up and running, you’re reliant on the D-pad and ABXY controls. R and L trigger buttons are also provided for extra control.

Unless you’re reinstalling or installing a different OS, you shouldn’t need to eject the microSD card.

The GPi Is Moddable, Too

Since its release several cool modifications have been released for the GPi.

The Best Gameboy-Like Raspberry Pi Case Available

The GPi Case retains the Pi Zero as an integral part of the design and build. Meanwhile, the assembly is simple enough that anyone from around 11 and above could build it.

Enter the Competition!

Retroflag GPi Case for Raspberry Pi Zero

Read the full article: Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console

Retroflag GPi is the Ultimate Portable Retro Gaming Console published first on http://droneseco.tumblr.com/

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enrgtechltd · 5 years ago

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Keystone Electronics Relevance

Keystone Electronics has manufactured precision electronic interconnection modules and hardware for over sixty years, providing high-quality products worldwide at competitively priced to the industry and is still relevant up to date.

Battery Clips, Contacts, Holders, and Retainers: Advancements in portable electronics, as well as Lithium-Ion battery technology, require stable connections to the device. Keystone is leading the way with a wide range of consistent, high-quality, cost-effective items for most battery types.

PCB Test Points & UL Approved Terminals

Low profile as well as limited space drive of contemporary PCB connectivity designs. Keystone is the perfect fit for Solder as well as Solderless PCB Quick-Fit, Snap-on, Snap-Fit, and Screw-on Terminals as well as Color-Coded Screw Terminals & THM and SMT Test Points and more.

Pins, Plugs, Jacks & Sockets, and Industry's Most Diverse Group: Keystone's USB 2.0, 3.0 & 3.1 Jacks & Plugs, Micro Pins / Jacks, Banana, and Phono Plugs & Jacks are developed for use with the new Mobile & Computer Electronics, Home Theater, Test Gear and Industrial Interconnects.

Space-Saving Fuse Clips & Holders like Fuse clips as well as holders for Electrical, Datacom, Telecom, Automotive, and Solar applications. Keystone meets your needs with SMT, Thru-Hole, and Rivet Mount products.

Spacers, Standoffs/Supports

Metallic & Non-Metallic: Various insulated, as well as non-insulated spacers and standoffs, are accessible in a wide variety of lengths, thread measurements, hole sizes, mounting types, and materials. Choose from commodities of either English or Metric for your PCB, panel as well as mounting applications.

Panel Hardware, Handles, Screws & LED Spacers

Keystone has value-added goods, namely Fan Filters & Guards, LED Lens Caps, Holders & Spacer Mounts, Jack Screws, and Connector Hardware, Instrumentation Handles, Cable Clamps, Knobs and more.

Quality Interconnect Components and Electronic Hardware:

Since 1950 Keystone's output has been characterized by leading-edge technology and precision production. This tradition is mirrored in their new M65 catalog.

Keystone staff is proud to comply efficiently and promptly with all requirements. We were made an industry leader by trained and committed technical staff, experienced staff in manufacturing and customer service.

Each Keystone device is integrated fully with 3D / CAD modeling and precision and die-operations CAD / CAM software. Progressive dies, four-slide, wire formation, in-speed tapping, and automated machining for tight tolerance standards, as well as custom products, are utilized by application and engineering experts. Applications and engineering specialists. Tapping, drilling, assembly, and finishing are secondary operations.

For product changes or special design specifications, application engineering services are available. Keystone is a certified company ISO-9001:2015 and complies with the directives RoHS and REACH.

Product categories

Product categories include: Battery & Coin Cell Holders, Contacts & Clips,

Fuse Clips & Fuse Holders, 2AG thru 8AG, SPF, 9/32, 13/32, 5mm, Auto blade fuse clips and holders, Terminals & Test Points, THM and SMT test points for PCB use; Solder and Solderless Terminals and lugs and military and commercial turret and screw terminal boards, "Quick-Fit" Terminals, Screw Terminals & Terminal Blocks, UL recognized PCB Quick-Fit, Terminals (.110” to .312”) tabs for Vertical/Horizontal Mounting Designs, PC mountable single and multiple position blocks, strips and terminals, Spacers & Standoffs, Male-Female, PC104, Threaded and Clear Hole, swage, force-fit and hinged configurations in metallic and other materials, TO-3, TO-5 and TO-100 Sockets, Cases and Mounting Kits, Handles for Instrumentation, Round, Oval and Strap style handles in Brass, Aluminum and other materials.

USB 2.0 and 3.0, IEEE1394, Phono, Audio, Banana plugs and jacks, micro pins and jacks, PTFE insulated terminals and jacks, LED Spacers Mounts & Lens Caps, T1 and T1-3/4 spacer mounts, lens caps and holders, Plugs, Pins, Jacks & Sockets, Bumpers, bushings, cases, eyelets, grommets, hole plugs, and washers, Brackets (Computer & Mounting), Transistor Hardware, and Brackets for all PC computers in standard & custom configurations.

#TO-100 Sockets #Keystone #Keystone devices #Keystone Electronic

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ntrending · 7 years ago

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Five science tricks to scare up a better Halloween costume

New Post has been published on https://nexcraft.co/five-science-tricks-to-scare-up-a-better-halloween-costume/

Five science tricks to scare up a better Halloween costume

Halloween is coming, which means the race for the most awesome costume is on. Fortunately, a little science can add some serious fright to your get-up. These tricks only require a little advance preparation, but your friends will remember the result for years to come.

Apply makeup that only appears under ultraviolet LEDs

Want to play Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde? You can paint your skin with glowing scars, creepy eye makeup, and veiny hands…that only appear under ultraviolet light. Add some UV LEDs to your costume, and you’ll be able to turn this makeup on and off with a switch. Alternatively, amp up your vampire look with similar UV-reactive makeup that does appear under normal light but produces fluorescesce in the presence of a blacklight.

To put this look together, you’ll need specially-formulated face paint that reacts to ultraviolet light. Brands like Moon Glow and PaintGlow specialize entirely in this type of UV-reactive makeup. For hair products that glow, look for gel from Manic Panic.

Once you have your face paint, you’ll need some wearable LEDs. Look for UV-emitting strip lights, sometimes called “blacklight” strips, which are widely available at hardware stores and online. Choose lights that you can cut and that come wired to a connector, preferably a DC receptacle. If you can’t find a strip with a DC power source, get one with a solderless connector, buy a separate DC receptacle at an electric supply store, and attach the two in seconds—no tools required. In the long haul, this setup is not the sturdiest, but you only need it for a night.

For power, you have a couple options. A battery holder with a DC plug can attach directly to your light strip. Or grab a power bank like the one you use to charge your phone, attach it to a USB-to-DC converter, and connect that to your LEDs. However, before you plug in the power bank, check its maximum instantaneous amperage limit, usually found in the user’s manual. Compare that to the overall amperage the LED strip will pull, which you’ll find in the specifications sheet. If the light strip draws more amps than the battery can provide, the power will drain too quickly, potentially destroying the power bank.

This video demonstrates how to connect a power source to LED strips. Although the focus is on lights that go under your clothes, rather than illuminating your face and hands as we want to do, the principle is the same.

Now that you have your materials in hand, use fabric glue or pins to attach the light strip to your clothing. Put on your UV-enabled costume, apply your UV-reactive makeup, and then test the range of the lights in total darkness. This should show you how the effect is working and whether you need to tweak the setup.

Expel smoke from your fingers

If you’re playing a wizard, or perhaps Old Scratch himself, use some classic stage magic to add that extra frisson of brimstone. All you’ll need is a matchbox, scissors, a lighter, and a metal container small enough to tuck into your pocket, like a mint tin.

First stick your container in the freezer to make it as cold as you can. Leave the container to chill for at least half an hour. While it chills, cut the striker off a matchbox—the fresher the better—and fold it in half lengthwise with the striking sides against each other. Remove any cardboard stuck to the striker. After the metal has cooled, take it out and place the folded striker on top.

In a well-ventilated space, use the lighter to burn the striker at both ends, running it up and down the striker to ensure it ignites evenly. The striker will eventually go out on its own, after a minute to a minute and a half, leaving a brown residue behind in the metal. That’s the phosphorus that ensures a match goes up. Once you’ve got it on the metal, you can throw the charred remains of the striker away. Put the container back in the freezer until it’s party time. You won’t need to keep it chilled at the party, but this is a good way to keep the phosphorus dormant until you need it.

When you head to your Halloween party, bring the metal with you. To perform the trick, just run your thumb and forefinger through the phosphorus (discreetly, of course) and then rub them together. Smoke (really evaporated phosphorus, set off by the friction) will roll off your fingers. The phosphorus on your fingers will glow in the dark, and so will the “smoke.”

One note: Phosphorus can be very dangerous. Although this effect only provides an extremely low dose, maybe don’t do this trick daily. And if somebody shows up to the party as a match girl with phossy jaw, consider shelving your smoking-fingers device for another day.

Yank pins out of your skin

If you’re planning to dress as a zombie or a certain Cenobite of ‘80s horror fame, add a little interactive element to your costume by inserting a few blood-spattered pins into your arm or face, then letting people can yank them out. Of course, you’re not really going to stab yourself with pins—but some stage blood and makeup glue will give guests the illusion that you did.

A quick warning: If you’re allergic to latex, check the makeup glue ingredients carefully. Many of them use latex, and anaphylactic shock is not a fun costume trick!

First, find a spot on your body where your skin is relatively loose. To test it, lay a long pin flat on the surface and pinch two ridges of flesh together around the metal. Choose a pin that’s relatively long and has an elaborate head so it will be easily visible.

Once you’ve picked a good spot, apply the makeup glue to that area, put the pin in the middle, and pinch your skin together lightly, just enough to cover the middle of the pin and keep it in place. To ensure that nobody notices you’ve glued yourself together, you might want to fill in the pinched area with a little foundation. Complete the effect with a little fake gore.

At your soiree, just ask somebody to grab the pin head and pull. Make sure to yell in pain, or perhaps issue a ghoulish chuckle, as the pin slides right out.

Pull a scarf through your neck

Want to really sell your ghost costume? Have somebody grab your tie or scarf, give it a tug, and watch them gape in shock as it seems to pop through your incorporeal neck. What you’re really doing is creating a loose knot that easily pops off (and isn’t visible from the front). For this trick, you’ll need a scarf or tie about four or five feet long, and some time to practice and really get the hang of the knot.

Here’s how it works: Put the scarf around your neck, take the ends in your hands, and pull gently until the left-hand side hangs longer than the right. Cross your arms, right over left, with your right hand holding the scarf a little higher than your left. Pull your right hand across, forming a u-bend. Wrap the part of your scarf held by your left hand around your neck, over the bend, and follow with your right, gently resting the loop on the back of your neck. This is a little tough to visualize, so check out the video below for more details.

Knot enthusiasts might find these steps familiar. That’s because the method mimics the first two steps in a basic quick-release hitch. For novice tie-ers, this trick may take a little practice.

Finally, ask someone to tug on the left-hand end, and the scarf will seem to fall “through” your body. Once you’ve got the knot down, you can re-tie your neck gear and endlessly repeat the performance.

Play undead with no pulse and endless guts.

If you’re going to be one of the legion of Halloween zombies, you should give your costume a couple touches that make it stand out.

The first trick just requires a rubber ball. Hide it in your armpit, ask someone to take your pulse from your wrist, and then squeeze the ball. This will temporarily block your radial artery, which delivers pulsing blood to your wrist. Search as they might, your friend won’t detect the tell-tale sign of life.

If that’s too subtle, try a new take on the old endless hanky gag. Get some red “silks,” available at magic shops (you can also make your own with bolts of fabric), and knot them together end to end with a simple square knot. Then fold your ties to form a stack and twist them until they fit in something small and portable, like a cardboard tube.

Stick the tube in your shirt, leaving the end sticking out, and ask somebody to play pull-the-intestine. For bonus points, tie something gross, like a rubber heart, to the last tie. This is particularly great if you really ham it up; shriek, make gagging sounds, or hide a handy fake blood capsule so it sprays over your audience.

Written By Dan Seitz

#DIY

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falconerelectronics · 7 years ago

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Wire Harness Manufacturing Terms, Tools, and Tips of the Trade

Steps for Wire Harness Manufacturing Success

Superior Quality

Maintaining Impeccable Customer Scorecards

Fast Turnaround Times

Also, Competitive Prices

Highly Skilled and Seasoned Staff

FREE Estimates (click here)

High Productivity

Agility and Flexibility

Company Culture Dedicated to Customer Satisfaction

Lastly, a Commitment to Safety

Helpful Guide of Wire Harness Manufacturing Terms, Tools and Tips

Are you new to the Wire Harness process? Our team created a helpful guide below.

The Wire Harness Manufacturing Guide includes:

Wire Harness Terms

Tools

Tips of the Trade

Additionally, the list below includes a number of Wire Harness Manufacturing Terms and definitions.

Wire Harness Manufacturing IPC/WHMA-A-620 Standard

All of the Wire Harness Manufacturing Terms below are from the IPC/WHMA-A-620. This serves as an industry standard. Therefore, providing criteria for commonly used wire harness assemblies. Consequently, the standard sets a “collection of visual Quality Acceptability Requirements for Cable, Wire and Harness Assemblies.”

To learn more about the IPC/WHMA-A-620, click here.

A standard system for designating wire diameter. Primarily used in the U.S.

The raised portion at the front and/or back of the wire barrel crimp that provides a gradual entrance and exit for the wire strands without causing damage.

Wire Strands that have separated from the normal lay of the wire.

Woven bare metallic or tinned copper wire used as shielding for wires and cables and as ground wire for batteries or heavy industrial equipment. Also, a woven fibrous protective outer covering over a conductor or cable.

A group of individually insulated conductors in the twisted or parallel configuration under a common sheath.

A cable with plugs or connectors attached.

An uninsulated wire or the conductor of an insulated wire suitable for carrying electrical current.

A tube in which insulated wires and cables are passed.

A device used to physically and electrically join two or more conductors.

The conducting part of a connector that acts with another such part to complete or break a circuit.

A continuous path for the flow of current in an electrical circuit.

Final configuration of a terminal barrel formed by the compression of terminal barrel and wire.

The measurement of the overall wire barrel height after crimping the terminal.

Total current is the combination of resistive and capacitive currents. Resistive current is present in both AC and DC DWV tests. Additionally, the capacitive current is present only with fluctuations in applied voltage (Ex: AC testing).

Any insulating medium that intervenes between two conductors.

The process of two or more mechanical crimping operations on the same location in a single terminal.

A short tube. Used to make solderless connections to shielded or coaxial cable. Also, a terminal crimped onto the stranded wire to allow insertion into terminal blocks.

A rubber seal used on the cable side of multiple contact connector to seal the connector against moisture, dirt or air.

A group of wire and cables, usually made with breakouts. Furthermore, with a rubber or plastic sheath tie them together. A harness also provides interconnection of an electric circuit.

A material that offers high electrical resistance making it suitable for covering components, terminals, and wires. This material also helps to prevent the possible future contact of adjacent conductors and a resulting short circuit.

Area of a terminal, splice or contact formed around the insulation of the wire.

An outer covering, usually nonmetallic, mainly used for protection against the environment.

A device attached to certain connectors that permit uncoupling and separation of connector halves by a pull on a wire or cable.

A combination of two or more conductors cabled together and insulated from one another and from sheath or armor where used.

A mechanical arrangement of inserts and/or shell configuration that prohibits the mating of mismatched plugs and receptacles.

Connector used for connecting or terminating coaxial cable.

A flat cable of individually insulated conductors lying parallel and held together by means of adhesive film laminate.

A technique or item which reduces the transmission of mechanical stresses to the conductor termination.

A predetermined amount of slack to relieve tension in component or lead wires.

A device designed to terminate a conductor that is to be affixed to a post, stud, chassis, another conductor, etc., to establish an electrical connection. Some types of terminals include ring, tongue, spade, flag, hook, blade, quick-connect, offset and flagged.

A tube of extruded non-supported plastic or metallic material.

Slender rod or filament of drawn metal.

The overall conductor plus insulation thickness.

Types of Wire Terminals

The definition of a terminal is:

A device designed to terminate a conductor that is to be affixed to a post, stud, chassis, another tongue, etc., to establish an electrical connection.

Wire Terminals come in many different shapes and sizes. This is due to the size of the wire and screw. Also, there are several types of terminals.

Wire Harness Manufacturing Terminals Include:

Ring

Spade

Hook

Quick-disconnect

Bullet

Butt terminals

Flagged

Wire terminals are available in insulated and non-insulated. The insulation provides a protective cover. Therefore, serving as a non-conductor. Furthermore, the type of project that is being done will determine if you need insulated or non-insulated terminals.

The insulation spares the wire from water and moisture as well. Also, it protects against extreme heat or cold. Wire insulation is typically available in vinyl, nylon and heat shrink. ��Non-insulated terminals provide much more economic value with its low cost. Also, they are commonly used when extra protection is unnecessary.

When purchasing various Types of Wire Terminals, make sure that your purchase meets industry standards as well as project requirements.

Wire Terminals

A ring terminal is a round-ended terminal that easily allows a screw or stud to be attached. Ring terminals also called ring connectors, come in various sizes. It is crucial that the ring terminal is compatible with the wire gauge and stud size. Ring Terminals are either crimped or soldered to the wire. Available in insulated or non-insulated.

Spade Terminals are also called spade connectors or fork terminals due to the shape of the terminal. A spade terminal is available in various sizes depending on the gauge of the wire and stud size. Additionally, the open-ended spade terminal is convenient to use allowing easy attachment or removal from the screw. Especially for wire harness projects that are tight on space for installation. They are also available in insulated or non-insulated.

Similar to the Spade Terminal, Hook Terminals are convenient to use with an open end (imagine a tiny version of Captain Hook). These terminals are produced as insulated or non-insulated. Hook Terminals offer a simplistic yet durable connection for a variety of projects.

A quick-disconnect terminal provides convenient and reliable usage while also offering an easy connect and disconnect between two wires. They are commonly found in auto, industrial and consumer products. Products can be insulated or non-insulated. Quick-Disconnect Terminals additionally deliver a stable and durable connection.

Bullet Terminals (also called bullet terminals) make an easy, reliable and secure connection. It is simple to disconnect as well. Bullet terminals also connect with the male and open-ended round female connectors creating a high-quality connection. Therefore, the connection with bullet terminals helps prevent corrosion and other potentially harmful materials from entering a wire harness.

A Butt Terminal connects or terminates single or multiple wires. Butt Terminals help prevent abrasion and cutting. Additionally, this extra protection helps keep out moisture, corrosion, and other negative elements. Butt Terminals serve as a simple solution to extend wires due to the ability to mate and connect wires. Simply install each wire on the open end of the connector, then crimp both ends of the terminal to secure the connection.

Flag Terminals also called flag connectors to offer a convenient and secure connection. Flag terminals work well in tight spaces as well as when a quick-disconnect is too large. Provides a quick and easy connection and disconnect. Also available in insulated and non-insulated.

Wire Insulation

Wires can be found… seems like… everywhere. Any electrical product that demands a current flowing will typically require a wire (or cable). Even when you hear something is “wireless”. In this instance wires power the device sending a signal. Electricity traveling through wires bring each of us tremendous joy and pleasure.

Examples of electronics containing wires:

Computers

Internet routers

Also, music players (MP3 and iPods)

Communication devices (Cell Phones)

Vehicles

Appliances

Actually, can you imagine surviving a single day without electricity? Well, in the early stages, electricity did not travel so safely through wires. Thankfully electricity travels safe and sound through wires protected with wire insulation.

The explosive growth of electrical products well over a century ago drastically increased the use of wires carrying electricity. Unfortunately, uncovered or exposed wires were responsible for dangerous situations.

Furthermore, exposed wires led to electrical shocks or fire. However, the addition of a non-conductive cover was a brilliant move to protect and strengthen wires. The application of Wire Insulation protects wires greatly reducing potential hazards and threats.

You can take a look at wire insulation in the 19th century.

Check out this cool video on porcelain insulators. Thanks to Thomas Edison Tech Center.

https://youtu.be/x8ekfxijhuA

Wire Insulation Evolution

Due to increasing demand, electrical products require a solution to protect wires. The solution is affordable and efficient. Also, with the early growth in popularity, wire harness assembly has become necessary. It is much more efficient in harnessing loose wires. This is opposed to a "free for all". Especially for electrical consumer goods and the auto industry. Both of which have exploded since the early 20th century.

Insulation serves as a non-conductor. The Insulation also separates and protects wires within a wire harness assembly. Especially since it is a nasty world out there with many detrimental elements that can cause harm to non-insulted wires.

To save the day, an insulated jacket protects each wire from the elements keeping the wire cozy and safe. Like insulated terminals, wire insulation also protects from moisture and extreme temperatures.

Thankfully wire insulation today is much more efficient. It is also, effective and affordable. For example, thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire (THHN wire) is low in cost. It is also lightweight. Due to these factors, it is an extremely popular wire insulation option.

Now that you know all about terminals and wires you need to know how they come together to create a wire harness.

Crimping Tools

We have over 30 years of wire harness manufacturing experience. Also, we here at Falconer Electronics have accumulated an impressive arsenal of crimping tools. When crimping wires and cables for our customers we have to utilize the proper tools. These allow our team to execute jobs with accuracy and efficiency. As well as, in a safe manner.

Many projects require crimping wires by hand. When producing wire assemblies for prototypes and small volume runs, handheld crimping tools sure come in…well... handy.

It is extremely important to look over the entire assembly when selecting the proper tool. For example, a basic pliers-style crimp tool can fit various wires, connectors, and terminals. Also, matching the right size tool is imperative when terminating wires.

A great brand is Molex. They are a global leader in the manufacturing of high-quality electrical tools. They are also a leader in components and other equipment. Falconer Electronics hax relied on Molex for many years. We trust their products.

The team at Molex declares they solve challenges “through our collaborative process, we take a multi-dimensional approach that brings together engineers, product designers, and manufacturers to ensure the design cycle is smooth and seamless.”

Below is one of the “Bad Boys” from Molex that our team loves to use when tackling tough projects:

Pneumatic Crimping Tool

Not interested in crimping wires by hand? Or do you have a large amount to crimp? No problem. Pneumatic crimping tools are extremely beneficial and efficient. Additionally, a pneumatic tool allows you to work hands-free due to air power. These tools are also fast and accurate. All qualities that will drastically increase your production.

We recently welcomed a new addition to our team. The Pneumatic Crimping Press pictured below. The “Plug’n Play” Pneumatic Press looks fierce, doesn’t it? It is ready and raring to CRIMP!! Especially ideal for wires requiring interchangeable crimping dies:

Tips for Successful Wire Harness Manufacturing

The crimp does not break the insulation.

Also, the crimp fully wraps around and supports insulation (also cannot expose an opening greater than 45 degrees).

Insulation does not have puncturing to the point where tabs penetrate the wires.

Crimp tabs are in contact with the top of the insulation.

Insulation is flush with the crimped wire.

Additionally, identifying damaged insulation that reveals wires.

The wire, connector, assembly process, as well as insulation, are all compatible.

Wire Harness Manufacturing: Crimping Wires Do’s & Don’ts

The IPC/WHMA-A-620 standard provides the necessary guidance on crimping wires. Consequently, this standard shows what is acceptable along with what is considered defective. Here are a few examples of Do’s and Don’ts:

Do’s

Insulation crimp tabs fully wrap and support insulation

Additionally, the insulation fully enters and extends past the insulation crimp tabs

Wires must be in solid working condition – also cannot have scrapes, nicks, severing or other damages

The connector retains the wires

Center the crimp indent

Insulation crimp must provide a minimum side report of 180 degrees

Don’ts

Wires should not have deformities- Flattening untwisting, buckling, or kinking

Insulation should not show any signs of pinching, pulling, fraying, discoloration, or charring

Also, the insulation crimp needs to fully support and wrap insulation without causing any damage or breaking the insulation

No broken insulation- This can expose wires causing safety issues and potential hazards

Wire not secured by crimp

Contact has visible cracks and fractures

Also, no Birdcaging – Wire Separation

These are just a handful of the requirements.

To learn more about the Wire Harness Manufacturer’s Association and A-620 Standards, please click here.

Wire Harness Manufacturing Quality Control

Wire Harness Quality Control is paramount at Falconer Electronics. We perform testing on cables and wire harness assemblies for every order. Therefore, quality control strongly impacts the bottom line with the wire harness assembly process. Also, our well-guided wire harness quality control and a solid test system prevents unnecessary errors, stress and lost profits.

High accuracy during the assembly process is the key to maintaining competitive pricing and reliability. We take every step to ensure accuracy at the time of assembling and producing the wires. Instituting a strict wire harness quality control system during production brings significant benefits to our customers.

Wire Harness Manufacturing Testing Check List

Safety First! Wire Harness Testing requires extreme caution. This is due to it involving live wires. Unfortunately, electric shock and burns can turn a great day into a really bad day quickly. It is mandatory to use personal protective equipment on the job such as safety glasses when testing a wire assembly.

When performing Wire Harness Testing, our quality control department strictly follows the IPC/WHMA-A-620 Standard. This standard is a collection of visual Quality Acceptability Requirements for Cable as well as Wire and Harness Assemblies.

Wire Harness Manufacturing Checklist for Testing Wires:

Accurate Labeling

Check for Damaged Insulation or Defective Wires

Continuity

Correct Wire Gauge

Also, Check for Proper Crimps

Free of Moisture and Corrosion

Optimum Wire Placement Within Connectors

Pull Test

Test for Broken Wires

Finally, Test for Shorts

Deming Values for Continual Improvement

Going old school, we are big fans of 20th-century management guru Dr. Deming. Dr. W. Edwards Deming created 14 points for management with a quest for continual improvement. We give credit to Dr. Deming for being the master of quality improvement. Particularly with his work in Japan during the 1950’s.

The Deming Institute continues the incredible legacy of Dr. Deming.

Furthermore, one of the core values at the Deming Institute states:

We are dedicated to the Deming philosophy and the belief that working together, with humility, we can make a difference in the quality of life for everyone.

This is a truly inspiring message!

According to Dr. Deming, implementing the 14 points is a philosophical way of conducting business with an unwavering quest for continual improvement. In addition, new tactics and behaviors become habits. Furthermore, those habits eventually form into the core beliefs and culture of a company.

Two particular interesting points from Dr. Deming's 14 points that help drive our wire harness quality control:

1. Create constancy of purpose toward improvement of product and service, with the aim to become competitive and to stay in business, and as a result to provide jobs.

5. Improve constantly and forever the system of production and service, to improve quality and productivity, and thus constantly decrease costs.

Consequences when continual improvement and quality are NOT the top priority:

High defect rates

Underutilized equipment

Poor productivity

Poor inventory management

Safety concerns

Finally, low morale with employees

Wrapping it Up

Thank you for reading our post on Wire Harness Manufacturing Terms, Tools, and Tips of the Trade.

Also, for more information on Wire Harness Manufacturing, click here:

For additional information click on the links below:

Build Your Business Tips: Selecting a Wire Harness Manufacturer

Ground Straps: What Are They And What Are They Used For?

Wire Harness Estimator

Ground Strap Express

#wireharness

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