#callotsoeurs

[professorpski]

Threads, Fall 2023

Threads is a magazine that specializes in teaching fine sewing techniques, everything from fabrics choices to fitting garments. It also has made an effort lately to offer one basics article per issue for newer dressmakers and tailors, which I find usually has something to teach me despite my years of sewing. This issue has the color forecasts for the coming cooler seasons along with suggestions for some patterns to match. 

The cover offers an example one of the hand details articles which are featured. the jacket is made of wool double-cloth when two separate fabrics are woven and then attached to one another. It allows for a warmer, thicker more luxurious feeling fabric and a variety of edge finishes. Debby Spence explains the care needed to work with such fabric, and I would second the need to experiment with edge seams before you even think about cutting. The one time I worked with such a cloth, I intended to separate the layers at the front edges and fold them in and hand finished. But then the edges the stretched out alarmingly after separated; I changed course and covered the edges instead with a contrasting, knitted wool binding. 

Technical articles explain the methods for more hand-made details. You  see here also from Youngmin Lee’s article on bojagi a textile for wrapping gifts from Korea that can be quilted or embroidered. Then, simple hand embroidery on a black knit shirt is part of an article on the basics of developing, transferring and embroidering designs on knits by Alex Woodbury. 

Fitting in nicely with this attention to detail is Maggie Raywood’s interesting account of copying gowns created by the Callot Sisters of Paris which are held in the Acton collection which belongs to NYU Florence. You see here the portrait of Hortense Mitchell Acton, a devoted buyer of the sisters’ work, and the gown she wears in it, both of which are on display at Villa La Pietra, Florence.  

There are more articles, on types of interfacings (the basics article), how people who are left handed can find ways to make sewing easier for them, and on making a vintage pocket feature. 

Find the issue at your local fabric store, bookstore, or online here: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/

[mscoyditch]

Fashion Museum Bath.

"Friday Treat Time and we’re dreaming of 1920s Paris with this beautiful black silk and cream Raschel lace evening dress by #CallotSoeurs. Dating to about 1926, it features a fashionable dropped waistline elegantly embellished with a wide swathe of black satin and pink and peach silk roses 🌹

Parisian fashion house Callot Soeurs was founded in 1895 by the four Callot sisters – Marie, Marthe, Régine and Joséphine. One of the most influential and successful couture houses of the early twentieth century, Callot Soeurs was renowned for its exquisite lacework and gorgeous trims".

[defunctfashion]

Callot Sœurs | c. 1925 • • • With the weight of the dress completely shifted to the shoulders this shift dress exemplifies evening wear of the 1920s. The sister’s of the Callot Sœurs design house were always en vogue. They were not afraid to push the envelope when it came to the ever changing silhouette of fashion during the first three decades of the 20th century. Few of their creations survive compared to their contemporaries Worth and Poiret. This is an exquisite surviving example of their prowess. • • • #whattheywore #historicalfashion #fashion #fashiondesign #fashionhistory #historyoffashion #vintagefashion #art #vintage #historicfashion #defunctfashion #historicalfashion #costume #costumedesign #couture #costumehistory #callotsoeurs #eveningdress #velvet #indianapolismuseumofart

[insidethemood]

FROM FASHION: Callot, 1940 || Carven by Guillaume Henry, Fall 2014 ___ Callot Soeurs was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s. In 1928, Pierre Gerber, Marie Callot Gerber’s son, took over the business but could not survive in the highly competitive market and, in 1937, the House of Callot Soeurs closed and was absorbed into the House of Calvet (Marie-Louise Calvet) under the Callot label. However, World War II made matters difficult in France. Similarly to what happened with the House of Vionnet in 1939, Calvet and the Callot label finally closed in 1952. #callotsoeurs #callot #carven #yellow #suit #animalier #fauxfur #fashioninspiration #fashionhistory #inspiration #insidethemood #guillamehenry https://www.instagram.com/p/BnWeYz9l7Vz/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=56nvnge0llu1

[veronicaprida]

Inspired by the extraordinary design house of Callot Soeurs, it’s the perfect fit for @mollie.rochelle #beadedgown #sequins #crystals #embroidery #duchess #orderofthealamo #sanantoniofiesta #veronicaprida #callotsoeurs #lookoftheday (at San Antonio, Texas) https://www.instagram.com/p/CT5Sah_FhpM/?utm_medium=tumblr

[the-met-art]

Evening dress by Callot Soeurs, Costume Institute

Medium: silk

Gift of Mrs. Russell W. Davenport, 1963 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86019

[walkinvintage]

The most amazing 1920s dress I have ever owned! Thank you Nadia for being my model today @feminist_fatale, Rare 1918 black silk evening dress with beaded bird of paradise design, ankle length with peplum back, presumed to be Made by the Callot sisters, no tags of any kind, size S/XS loose fit, #callotsoeurs, #frenchfashion, #20sfashion, #20sdress, #downtonabbey, #antiquedress, #shopvintage, #walkinvintage

[officialrunwaymagazine]

@runwaymagazines || @documentingfashion_courtauld From #francoiskollar's beautiful series of photographs of workers in #coutureatelier of 1931, this image of a woman holding up a bejewelled decoration to inspect its suitability as a final touch on a pale evening gown at #callotsoeurs. Kollar shows us the contrast between the dress materials and the woman's knitted sweater, cropping the photograph tight as she lifts the jewel into place. #1930sfashion #parisfashion #hautecouture #behindthescenes #dresshistory #fashionhistory #fashionstudies #vintagefashion #bibliothequeforney #officialrunwaymagazine #eleonoradegray #editorinchief #parisnewyorklosangeles #runwaymagazine

[french-born-chinese]

👘 . . . #kimono #exhibition #kimonoaubonheurdesdames #muséeguimet #paris #matsuzakaya #japanesefashion #clothing #callotsoeurs (at Musée national des arts asiatiques - Guimet)

[professorpski]

'I say, when you come to us, you couldn't possibly wear that ripping white trailing dress, could you?' 'The Callot or the Schiaparelli?' asked Mrs. Dean, interested. .... 'Oh, that tea-gown. It was very sweet of you to like it, Richard, but I must dress up a little more when I am having my first dinner with your parents.'

This exchange is a hoot for a few reasons. First, that the young man Richard describes the dress as “ripping” by which he means wonderful; second, that he doesn’t know that a tea-gown which was a casual form of dress reserved to be worn around the house even if in the presence of family friends; and third, that Mrs. Dean is so well-off that she has to think, hmmmm... which white trailing haute couture dress does he mean? Ah, to have such a puzzle to solve. Apparently, she has one by Callot Soeurs, a Parisian house which shut one year after this book, August Folly, was published in 1936. And she has another one by Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian designer, who also set up shop in Paris.

Poor Richard has a terrible crush on the older, married Mrs. Dean, one of the common sub-plots of Angela Thirkell’s novels. The older woman always thinks the young man is a bit of a goose, and nothing comes of it. Thirkell wrote novels set in the English countryside among people with plenty of money and fashion shows up in numerous ways in their pages.

Virago Books has republished them and you can find them here: https://www.virago.co.uk/contributor/angela-thirkell/

[swarnimanath]

Classic Before Vogue, there was Gazette du Bon Ton, the high society magazine of the roaring twenties. Here, Leon Bakst captures one of the four Callot sisters who owned a couture fashion house in 1920's. Everything about this illustration is classic and chic, Marthe's haircut, hat, dress! These earrings would shine on the promenade with a straw yellow summer dress and espadrille wedges. _ _ _ #artdecoobsessed #leonbakst #swaronnahjewellery #roaring20s #gazettedubonton #callotsoeurs #fashionillustration #bluezircon #rosecut #sterlingsilverjewelry #alwaysstylish #jewelrydesigner #vancitygirl

[defunctfashion]

Callot Sœurs | Pyjamas | c. 1913 • • • #whattheywore #historicalfashion #fashion #fashiondesign #fashionhistory #historyoffashion #vintagefashion #art #vintage #historicfashion #defunctfashion #historicalfashion #costume #costumedesign #couture #costumehistory #pyjamas #pajamas #callotsœurs #callotsoeurs #edwardian #edwardianfashion #lacma

[hiddengardener]

The Roaring Twenties and beyondPage Liked · 21 hrs · 1920s Evening dress. French. Callot Soeurs. Silk velvet, silver metallic embroidery thread, faux pearls (coated hollow glass beads). IMA. fiveminutehistory.com/CallotSoeurs

[onlyartshop]

Callot Sœurs. Robe de soirée Callot Sœurs. Evening dress Сестры Калло. Вечернее платье 1914 ian

[the-met-art]

Evening dress by Callot Soeurs, Costume Institute

Medium: silk

Gift of Mrs. William M. Haupt, 1966 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86031

[walkinvintage]

View from the back, Rare 1918 black silk evening dress with beaded bird of paradise design, ankle length with peplum back, presumed to be Made by the Callot sisters, no tags of any kind, size S/XS loose fit, #callotsoeurs, #frenchfashion, #20sfashion, #20sdress, #downtonabbey, #antiquedress, #shopvintage, #walkinvintage (at Walk in Vintage)