#chandrokhani

[craftfurnish-blog]

THE COVETED BANDHINI ART

What comes to your mind when the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat are mentioned? The vast stretches of Thar Desert… The mighty Aravali range… Sabarmati River flowing peacefully… Majestic forts and palaces… The energetic dandiya raas… Sumptuous vegetarian thalis… And the vivacious Bandhani or Bandhej sari.

The word ‘Bandhani’ comes from the Sanskrit word ‘Bandhan’ which means ‘to tie’. It is the traditional Indian ‘tie and dye‘ art (resist-dyeing technique) that results in colourful and interesting patterns on the cloth. The first Bandhani sari was perhaps worn at the time of Bana Bhatt`s Harshacharita for the occasion of a royal wedding. The patterns of this art form were also seen in the 6th century paintings in Ajanta. Bandhani work was started by the Khatri community of Gujarat. The major cities in Rajasthan like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Gujarat are well known producers of Bandhej saris, dupattas, odhnis and pagdis.

Earlier, dyes were extracted from natural plant sources like roots, flowers, leaves, and fruits. But today, besides these natural dyes, easy to use and permanent synthetic colours are also used in tying and dyeing process.  

The process involved in this art is completely design oriented. The fabric to be tied and dyed is cleaned thoroughly and then bleached. Bleaching ensures that the fabric is free from any residual colour and picks the new colour instantly. After the cloth is dried, a very small portion of the material is raised and tied into knots using a cotton thread. The knotted material is then dyed in a light colour. The knotted parts retain the original colour, and the rest of the fabric gets dyed. Then these lighter dyed portions are knotted, and the material is soaked again in another dye. This process is repeated for different colours.

Elaborate motifs and designs like flowers, jaals, bells and creepers are made using this tie and dye technique. The knots are placed in clusters each having a different name:

• Ekdali: single dot

• Tikunthi: three dots that make circles and squares

• Chaubundi: four dots

• Satbandi: dots in groups of seven

• Boond: small dot with a dark center

• Kodi: tear or drop-shaped pattern

• Dungar Shahi or Shikargah: a mountain-like pattern

• Jaaldar: web-like pattern

• Beldaar: vine-like pattern

• Laddu Jalebi: swirling pattern

• Leheriya: wave-like pattern

DIFFERENT TYPES OF BANDHANI SARIS:

GHARCHOLA

The most popular and finest of Bandhani from Gujarat is the Gharchola. Golden threads are woven into the fabric that needs to be used for tie and dye. Considered auspicious, gharcholas are exclusively designed for brides making it the most important addition to her wedding trousseau. Gharcholas were earlier made with cotton fabric but with changing times, silk has successfully taken over the humble cotton. They are mostly designed in bright colours like orange, red and green.

AMBADAAL

Another common pattern seen in bandhej is the Ambadaal or the mango branch wherein the fabric is designed entirely in a jaal-like pattern.

BAVANBAGH

Bavanbagh means 52 gardens wherein the fabric is designed in 52 segments each with a small bandhani pattern.

RASMANDALAS

It is a circular pattern showcasing the rasleela or the dancing gopis, done intricately using a tie and dye method.

CHANDROKHANI

The word chandrokhani means figures of moon. An attire for a newlywed bride, this bandhej sari in dark base and circular moon pattern symbolizes a comparison between the moon and the bride.  

Over the years bandhej patterns and garments have evolved tremendously. Earlier only saris, dupattas and traditional clothing were made using this method. But to meet the modern demands, items of home décor like pillow and cushion covers, napkins, tablecloths, bed sheets, etc are also made with this technique. Recognising the exclusive tie and dye bandhani art, Jamnagari bandhej was included in the Geographical Indication (G.I.) registry in the year 2016.

Indian handicrafts online

[kalabandhej]

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[agaatiofficial]

This Bandhani dupatta is called “Chandrukhani”, meaning, “full moon in the night sky”is a  creation by Abdullah Khatri. The design of the dupatta (stole) has a centre circle resembling the moon. This centre circle  is surrounded by a myriad of very fine dots resembling the stars in the sky.

The tradition of Chandrokhani is at least 300 years old. It’s one of themost intricate designs in Bandhani and holds a special place in every Khatri’s household. The mother-in-law welcomes the bride into their household, by offering this intricate piece of bandhani to the bride. As a gesture to welcome the bride with gratitude and happiness. But the tradition and the design saw a rapid decline in its usage and also in the intricate detail of the tie-dye quality.

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[bandhaniexclusive]

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[voolkaofficial]

Bandhani (बांधानी) is a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design.The term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root bandh ("to bind, to tie").Today, most Bandhani making centers are situated in Gujarat,Rajasthan,Sindh, Punjab region and in Tamil Nadu where it is known as Sungudi Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to Indus Valley Civilization where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave 1 at Ajanta. Bandhani is also known as Bandhej Saree, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi in Tamil and regional dialects. Other tying techniques include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The final products are known with various names including Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and Chandrokhani. . . . . . . #textilesofindia #indianheritage #chanderifabric #chanderi #heritagefashion #voolka #lugdu #sutivastra #vsaree #kurti #surat #ethnic #ethnicindianwear #indianstyle #chanderikurtas #zariwork #traditionstransformed #traditionaltextiles #colorsofindia #indiancolors #vibranttextiles #indiantextileheritage #jayporestyle #mahjabeen #bandhani #bandhanisaree #jetpur #kachi #fashionbloger #blogerindia (at Jetpur Guj) https://www.instagram.com/p/B8O2CBmD3vD/?igshid=7vkrx2fe2kf0

[myluxurionworld]

Bandhani- The Indian Tie-dye

The term “Bandhani”, also known as Bandhej, is derived from the Sanskrit word bandh which means “to bind” or “to tie”. As the name suggests, Bandhani is a technique of dyeing fabric by tightly tying threads in a pattern of the design.

Bandhani is one of the oldest art forms, found even in the Indus Valley Civilization. The walls of Ajanta are adorned with paintings depicting the life of Gautam Buddha, wearing dotted Bandhani.

In today’s time, Bandhani is produced in Punjab, Sindh, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, and Gujarat. Mothra, Shikari and Ekdali are techniques of tying the fabric. The results are called Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and Chandrokhani and much more.

Every region is popular for its own style of Bandhani. The Khatri community from Saurashtra and Kutch introduced the art of Bandhani to us. Tiny knots called Bheendi are tied on the cloth forming the desired design.  This cloth is then dyed in bright colors and left to dry. The time taken for drying is depended on the weather conditions, being less in summers and more in winters and rainy seasons. Because of the knots, the cloth is dyed completely except for the knotted parts. Bandhani designs are worn as salwar kameez and turbans, alike.

To make sure your bandhani retains its newness, it is advisable to dry clean it and use a low heat setting when ironing.

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[kalabandhej]

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[voolkaofficial]

#Bandhani (Hindi: बांधानी) is a type of tie-dye #textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design.The term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root bandh ("to bind, to tie").Today most Bandhini making centers are situated in #Gujarat,#Rajasthan,#Sindh, #Punjab regionand in TamilNadu where it's known as Sungudi.Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to Indus Valley Civilization where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at #Ajanta.Bandhani is also known as Bandhej Saree, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi in Tamil and regional dialects. Other tying techniques include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The final products are known with various names including Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and Chandrokhani # #vintage #cool #fashion #shopping #vintagestyle #handmade #summer #colorful #summerdays #bohogirl #fashion #outfitoftheday #fashionnista #bibilondon #redlengha #designer #shyamalbhumika #couture #bridallengha #brides #indianbride #indiandesigner#voolka #myprettysecrets (at India)