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[dd20century]

Mary Quant Designer of 1960s Iconic Mini-skirt Dies

Last month the fashion industry lost another legendary designer; Mary Quant died at her home in Surrey, England on April 13, 2023. Ms. Quant was often referred to as "the mother of the mini-skirt." Her fashions were marketed at the new youth culture, breaking with Dior's "New Look" of the earlier decade. It's been debated, however, whether Quant really did invent the mini-skirt, as short dresses for women had been introduced in the 1920s by designers like Coco Chanel. What Quant did was raise hemline heights to shorter lengths and in the process become the garment that defined the 1960s.

In 2019 the V&A Museum in London held a perspective of her work "Introducing Mary Quant." Filmmaker Sadie Frost produced a documentary "Quant" about the designer in 2021. View film's the trailer.

Mary Quant, Turtleneck Sweater and mini-dress, (1965). Image source.

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Understanding the Types of Fashion | Trends and Styles

Fashion is an ever-evolving domain that reflects cultural, social, and historical contexts. It encapsulates a broad spectrum of styles and trends that vary across regions and eras. From haute couture to streetwear, the diversity in fashion styles showcases creativity, individuality, and the human penchant for self-expression. In this blog, we will delve into various types of fashion, exploring their origins, characteristics, and influences.

Haute Couture

Haute couture, translating to "high sewing" or "high dressmaking," is the epitome of luxury fashion. Originating from Paris, it refers to the creation of exclusive, custom-fitted clothing made from the finest materials and with meticulous attention to detail. Designers like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Jean-Paul Gaultier have set the standards for haute couture. Each piece is a work of art, often requiring hundreds of hours of labor. Haute couture is not just about the garment but also about the craftsmanship and the heritage of the fashion house.

Ready-to-Wear (Prêt-à-Porter)

Ready-to-wear fashion bridges the gap between haute couture and mass production. Unlike haute couture, which is made for individual clients, ready-to-wear clothing is produced in standard sizes and available in retail outlets. These collections are often showcased during fashion weeks in major cities like New York, Paris, Milan, and London. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent popularized this type of fashion, making high-quality, stylish clothes accessible to a broader audience.

Streetwear

Streetwear emerged from the urban youth culture of the 1980s and 1990s, heavily influenced by skateboarding, hip-hop, and punk. Characterized by casual, comfortable pieces such as hoodies, sneakers, and graphic T-shirts, streetwear blurs the lines between fashion and everyday wear. Brands like Supreme, Off-White, and A Bathing Ape (BAPE) are iconic in this genre. Streetwear often involves limited edition releases and collaborations with artists and other brands, creating a sense of exclusivity and community.

Vintage and Retro

Vintage fashion refers to clothing and accessories from previous decades, often considered timeless and of high quality. Retro fashion, on the other hand, involves contemporary clothing designed to mimic the style of a previous era. Both styles celebrate nostalgia and the cyclical nature of fashion trends. Vintage shops and thrift stores are treasure troves for unique pieces that tell a story. Designers like Vivienne Westwood have incorporated vintage elements into their collections, blending old and new.

Bohemian (Boho) Fashion

Bohemian fashion, often shortened to "boho," draws inspiration from the free-spirited lifestyle of the 1960s and 1970s hippie movement. Characterized by flowing fabrics, earthy tones, and eclectic patterns, boho fashion exudes a relaxed, unconventional vibe. Key elements include maxi dresses, fringe, embroidery, and ethnic prints. Brands like Free People and Anthropologie have popularized this style, making it a staple for music festivals and casual wear.

Preppy

Preppy fashion is inspired by the traditional clothing styles of American prep schools and Ivy League universities. It is characterized by clean, classic, and polished looks. Key pieces include polo shirts, khaki pants, blazers, and loafers. The style emphasizes quality and timelessness, with brands like Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Lacoste being quintessential preppy labels. Preppy fashion embodies an understated elegance and a sense of tradition.

Grunge

Grunge fashion originated in the early 1990s, inspired by the Seattle music scene and bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam. It is characterized by an unkempt, "thrown-together" look, often featuring flannel shirts, ripped jeans, combat boots, and oversized sweaters. The grunge aesthetic is anti-establishment and rejects the polished, mainstream fashion norms. Designers like Marc Jacobs have brought grunge elements to high fashion, blending rebellion with style.

Minimalist

Minimalist fashion focuses on simplicity, clean lines, and a limited color palette. It emphasizes quality over quantity, with a preference for timeless, versatile pieces. Key elements include monochrome outfits, tailored cuts, and understated accessories. Brands like COS, The Row, and Jil Sander exemplify minimalist fashion. The minimalist approach advocates for a more sustainable wardrobe, encouraging thoughtful consumption and investment in enduring pieces.

Avant-Garde

Avant-garde fashion pushes the boundaries of conventional design, embracing innovation, experimentation, and artistic expression. It often features unconventional materials, asymmetrical cuts, and dramatic silhouettes. Avant-garde designers like Alexander McQueen, Rei Kawakubo (of Comme des Garçons), and Issey Miyake create pieces that challenge the norms and provoke thought. This type of fashion is not always about wearability but rather about making a statement and exploring new frontiers.

Athleisure

Athleisure combines athletic and leisurewear, creating a style that is both comfortable and fashionable. It includes items like yoga pants, leggings, sports bras, and sneakers that can be worn for both exercise and everyday activities. This trend reflects the growing emphasis on health, wellness, and the casualization of dress codes. Brands like Lululemon, Nike, and Athleta are pioneers in athleisure, offering functional yet stylish options for the modern, active lifestyle.

Gothic

Gothic fashion draws inspiration from the dark, mysterious aesthetics of gothic literature, architecture, and music. It often features black clothing, lace, velvet, corsets, and Victorian-inspired accessories. The style can range from romantic and elaborate to punk-influenced and industrial. Designers like Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens have incorporated gothic elements into their collections, blending darkness with high fashion.

Punk

Punk fashion emerged in the 1970s as a rebellious statement against the mainstream. It is characterized by DIY elements, distressed fabrics, safety pins, leather jackets, and bold hairstyles like mohawks. Punk fashion is inherently anti-establishment and often incorporates political messages. Designers like Vivienne Westwood played a crucial role in bringing punk aesthetics to the fashion world, merging subculture with haute couture.

Ethnic and Traditional

Ethnic and traditional fashion celebrates cultural heritage and craftsmanship from around the world. It includes clothing and accessories that are specific to a culture or region, such as Indian saris, Japanese kimonos, African Ankara prints, and Native American beadwork. This type of fashion preserves and honors cultural identity while often inspiring contemporary designers to incorporate traditional elements into modern designs.

Business and Formal

Business and formal fashion revolves around professional and sophisticated attire suitable for work environments and formal occasions. Key pieces include tailored suits, blazers, dress shirts, pencil skirts, and formal dresses. Brands like Hugo Boss, Armani, and Brooks Brothers are renowned for their business attire. This type of fashion emphasizes professionalism, confidence, and elegance.

Casual and Everyday

Casual fashion encompasses comfortable and practical clothing for everyday wear. It includes items like jeans, T-shirts, sneakers, and casual dresses. This style prioritizes comfort and ease, making it versatile for various activities. Brands like Levi's, Gap, and Uniqlo are staples in casual fashion, offering timeless pieces that can be dressed up or down.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion focuses on environmental and ethical responsibility. It involves using eco-friendly materials, fair trade practices, and promoting slow fashion over fast fashion. Sustainable fashion aims to reduce the negative impact on the planet and improve working conditions in the fashion industry. Brands like Patagonia, Stella McCartney, and Eileen Fisher are leaders in this movement, advocating for a more mindful approach to fashion consumption.

Conclusion

The world of fashion is vast and varied, encompassing a multitude of styles that cater to different tastes, cultures, and occasions. From the opulence of haute couture to the practicality of casual wear, each type of fashion tells a unique story and serves a distinct purpose. Understanding the diversity in fashion not only broadens our sartorial horizons but also deepens our appreciation for the creativity and craftsmanship that define this ever-evolving industry. Whether you gravitate towards the timeless elegance of preppy fashion or the bold statements of avant-garde, there is a style for everyone in the tapestry of fashion.

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[theluxuryclosetusa]

These Coats Will Bring You All the Winter Warmness This Season

It is soon going to be December! So, winter is officially here. The temperature will dribble down, and the winds will get chilly. ‘Tis the season when we go past the sweater weather and add an extra layer to our ensembles—designer winter coats that bring style, warmth, and comfort in abundance. Beyond being a cold-weather essential that is fashion-eternal, designer winter coats offer maximum versatility. Pair it with a cozy sweatsuit on the weekends for a casual moment, or team it up with a little black dress for a sophisticated ensemble. You can take the utilitarian chic route with an oversized hoodie coat or show some cozy glam with the iconic Max Mara Teddy coat, designer winter coats are for everyone!

We have rounded up some best designer winter coats for women to flatter your personality, style and to stick with you by the thick of winter. From Chanel tweed to Burberry Trench, our list is fully packed with creations you can envision in your wardrobe.

Top Picks of Best Designer Winter Coats

Christian Dior Embroidered Sleeveless Coat

This Dior coat might come across as basic blue outerwear, but the details are in the beauty of its tailoring. Starting from the deep neckline and the double-breasted style to the cinch on the waist and the slight flare from there on. Equal parts feminine and sophisticated, the cuts, structure, and detailed bloom embroidery set this one apart.

Louis Vuitton Monogram Wrap Coat

We love a reversible coat as it brings multiple styling choices. And here we witness the most beloved LV Monogram for the logo-laden look on one side and a black one for another for the classic plain-jane effect. Both can be cinched at the waist for a defined fit, and the hood at the back adds an edge.

Max Mara Double Breasted Rebus Coat

This white Max Mara coat is all things refined! With structured shoulders, classic lapels, and velvety wool made for the winter season, this double-breasted coat can be fluently dressed up or down.

Burberry Prorsum Beige Trench Coat

No more rain checks with the Burberry Prorsum trench coat! Updated with a graceful crochet overlay, it has all the classic elements with a tinge of femininity that hits the right notes of British fashion.

Celine Blue Wool Open Front Coat M

You could not find a better coat for those black-tie events. All the fundamentals of designer winter coats entail into this creation—wool to keep you warm, the dark blue hue for the cold season, and notch lapels with collars for that added finesse. This Celine coat expresses the brand’s clean and minimal appeal. If building a sustainable wardrobe is in your mind, this woolen coat will be an investment-worthy pick.

Chanel Vintage Open Front Fringed Coat

This vintage Chanel coat is your road to donning a Parisian chic outfit. Match it with black suede boots, a Chanel Flap bag, and gold-tone jewelry. With an open front detail, you can flaunt a mini dress inside.

Dolce & Gabbana Floral Jewel Embellished Coat

Everyone’s currently binge-watching Netflix’s The Crown, and we could not help but be inspired by the fashion on the show. One recurring silhouette that caught our attention is the well-shaped coats worn by the queen adorned with florals. Hence, we bring you this Dolce & Gabanna coat decked with statement jewel buttons and blooms—as royal as it can get!

Moschino Black Gold Button Detail Trench Coat

A timeless designer black coat brings simple style pleasures. This Moschino one is lightweight with a flared hem and bedizened with gold-hued buttons. Wear it over jeans, a tee, and a pair of sneakers for a casual route, or put it on your shoulders over a midi dress for a more tasteful touch.

Hermès Leather Double Breasted Belted Coat

Fashion experts are well-aware that no brand produces exquisite leather goods like Hermès, so we had to add one to our list of designer winter coats for women. Tinted in a versatile brown shade and tailored using lambskin leather that ages beautifully, this Hermès coat gives a suave and rich impression from every bit.

Missoni Alpaca Wool Crochet Trimmed Coat

For relaxed days when you want to stay indoors and enjoy the freezing weather, this Missoni coat made from soft alpaca wool will provide you with all the warmness you need. It has a floor length so that you will stay snug from top to bottom!

How to Wear Your Coat This Winter—Style Inspiration From the Streets

[americassteestore]

Pass the gabagool tacky ugly Christmas sweater

Buy this shirt:  Click here to buy this Pass the gabagool tacky ugly Christmas sweater

Americastee is a Startup Merchant that gives everyone the power to offer print-on-demand for their images on their own products. Our print-on-demand brand offers to print on apparel and sends them all over the world. We are specialized in short run printing, so it is possible for the customer of the platform to make an order easily and quickly. Our print facilities only print professional products and all of the high-quality products. We offer both screen and digital printing and have a good price for clients. Furthermore, we also own a professional design team to offer pretty designs for the customer with no worry.

Pass the gabagool tacky ugly Christmas sweater meaning:

In later years, Williams went on to form the Pass the gabagool tacky ugly Christmas sweater it is in the first place but band NERD and establish himself as not only a strong producer but also a singer and rapper in his own right. He has recorded some of the most successful singles of the new millennium, including the groove-infused Daft Punk collaboration “Get Lucky” and the international hit “Happy.” Add to that a deep and years-long relationship with Chanel, a shoe and apparel line with Adidas, and a skin and body care line, and it’s clear that Williams has more than proven himself—hence, his sense of detachment from the diamond-encrusted gems of yesteryear.

Home:  https://americastee.com/

[fashionbooksmilano]

Shocking

The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli

Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, Johannes Huth, Olivier Gabet, Dilys Blum, Emanuelle de l'Écotais

Thames & Hudson, London 2022, 288 pages, 25 x 31,5 cm., ISBN  978-0500025949

euro 65,00

email if you want to buy :booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

Published to accompany the major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris

The couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) was a key figure in Paris fashion between the two World Wars. Following in the footsteps of her mentor Paul Poiret, she designed her first knitwear collection in January 1927 announcing the arrival of a major new designer. Decorated with trompe-l’oeil motifs in black and white, her sweaters were an immediate success in both France and the US. In 1935, the Maison Schiaparelli opened on the Place Vendôme in Paris, selling collections designed for sports, city, and evening wear.

Like her arch-rival Gabrielle Chanel, Schiaparelli also worked closely with artists, including Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí, with whom she created her now-iconic lobster dress. Taking a cue from Surrealism, her creations were hugely imaginative and made use of innovative new materials. The “Schiap” style continued to develop through the 1930s and her designs were renowned for their originality and creativity. Her most famous collections addressed themes including the circus (Summer 1938) and astrology (Fall/Winter 1938-39). In 1937, Schiaparelli launched the fragrance “Shocking,” named after shocking pink, which had become her signature color.

Alongside vintage photographs, sketches, and contemporary features from Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, this volume presents specially photographed masterpieces from the collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Destined to be the definitive volume on the great designer, this lavishly produced and illustrated book brings to life the work of this influential figure in the history of fashion.

19/09/22

orders to:     booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

ordini a:        booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

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[emerald-studies]

Racist Clothing Brands + Black Brands to Buy From Instead:

                                         Racist Brands

Chanel

Chanel has been repeatedly accused of racially profiling Black customers and last year they hired a white woman as head of their "diversity and inclusion" department.

Gucci

Gucci has a complicated history with the Black community, stemming from them all but trying to destroy Dapper Dan's business only to hire him two decades later. Most recently they came under fire for releasing a sweater that had suspiciously Blackface elements and stealing designs from Black designers.

Prada

Prada has a similar history and they recently had to apologize after releasing a collection of monkey key chains.

Dior

Dior's most recent fragrance campaign came under fire for racist undertones but a Black Hollywood stylist also gave BET.com an account of an incident that she had with a brand. The stylist requests to remain anonymous says, "they compromised our creative relationship by not following through on requests and instead loaning looks that were promised to me to white actors instead."

Celine

Celine's branding is notoriously extremely thin and extremely white. A quick scroll of their social media will reveal exactly their opinion on Black lives.

Barney’s 

Before going bankrupt, Barney's had to pay out a settlement in a racial discrimination case of $525k to two plantiffs. 

Moda Operandi

A former employee of the company released this thread on Moda Operandi, citing several micro aggressions she suffered there. 

Burberry

Burberry issued an apology after releasing a sweater featuring a noose motif.

Tommy Hilfiger

In 1996, Tommy Hilfiger famously made comments against the Black community and has since clarified what he meant, but the hurt in the community lingers. 

Moschino 

Managers discriminated against black customers who did not appear to be rich or famous.

“If a potential black client was not a celebrity and did not have an outward appearance of money via diamonds or name brands, defendant [Ranna] Selbak called them a ‘Serena’ to other sales associates and wanted the ‘Serena’ to be closely watched,” according to the complaint.

Versace

A former male Versace employee sued Versace for allegedly firing him after his manager realized he was Black.

Zara

Zara was accused of using racial code words for black and Latinx customers. The Center for Popular Democracy surveyed 251 Zara employees in New York City about the retailer’s practices. Poll respondents said that when the term “special order” was used at the store, employees were to find the location of the shoppers in question and follow them around. Black customers were most often described as “special orders,” according to the survey results.

Reformation 

They were criticised for their internal practices by a black former employee, Elle Santiago. Santiago said she was denied work promotions in favor of white colleagues, as well as being ignored by the company founder, Yael Aflalo, because of her race.

“Being overlooked and undervalued as a woman of color who worked and managed their flagship store for three years was the hardest,” Santiago wrote in an Instagram post picked up by industry watchdog Diet Prada. “I cried many times knowing [that] the color of my skin would get me nowhere in the company.” 

Urban Outfitters

“As one of very few PoC [people of color] I quickly noticed the toxic environment I’d joined,” says the former employee, who wishes to remain anonymous. “Within my first month my manager made a flippant racist comment in regards to an Uber I’d called; the driver’s name was Muhammad. Her comment was, ‘You would get a Muhammad’ – in what I can only take as a comment made because of my heritage.

“There’s no PoC in the executive team and very little representation of PoC in head office, on the website, marketing campaigns and within the retail management teams.”

The company has a history of producing offensive items of clothing, including a seemingly blood-spattered T-shirt seen as a reference to the 1970 Kent State shootings; a T-shirt in a color named “Obama/Black”; another featuring a six-pointed badge, which seemed to allude to the Star of David badge that Jewish people were forced to wear during the Holocaust; and a racially insensitive Navajo line which used the Navajo nation name illegally.

Dolce & Gabbana

Ads, featured a Chinese woman struggling to eat spaghetti and pizza with chopsticks.

Comme des Garçons

White models wore wigs of traditional Black people’s hairstyles during its men’s autumn/winter 2020 show.

                                             BLACK BRANDS

ASATA MAISE

This designer transforms vintage fabrics into unique pieces that are made to be photographed. I mean, this whole slideshow of looks is A-R-T. Of course, being a one-person business can be overwhelming, so if you have the means, you can donate to Asata's GoFundMe which will provide her with equipment to keep up with demand.

Website: asatamaise.com

MIE

If dreamy, flowy dresses are up your alley, you definitely want to give this brand a follow. All the pretty pieces, including this stunning red puff-sleeve number, are made by local seamstresses and artisans in Lagos, Nigeria where it's based.

Website: mie.ng

JBD Apparel

Kim Kardashian recently gave this brand a shoutout, and it's easy to see why she's a fan of these body-hugging knit sets. All the pieces are handmade to order.

Website: jbdapparel.com

PHLEMUNS

Another celeb fave is this gender-neutral brand designed by James Flemons and based out in Los Angeles. Solange Knowles, Lizzo, Billie Eilish, Clairo, Lil Nas X, Miley Cyrus, and Bella Hadid have all worn its designs.

Website: phlemuns.com

RIOT SWIM

Looking for a truly standout swimwear piece to add to your summer wardrobe? Check out this label designed by Monti Landers featuring minimalistic silhouettes and shades that blend in seamlessly with darker skin tones.

Website: riotswim.com

COME BACK AS A FLOWER 

Specializing in hand-dyed garments, the pieces are ethically made using 100 percent recycled cotton. It also does drops of cool vintage tees, and stars like ASAP Rocky and Big Sean have worn its clothes.

Website: cbaaf.org

HUMANS BEFORE HANDLES 

This jewelry label has some of the cutest accessories for summer (eyeing these seashell ones, wow), and most impressive is the fact that everything is under $50.

Website: humansbeforehandles.com

LAQUAN SMITH

Here’s a real celeb fave (Rihanna, Beyoncé, and sooo many more have worn his pieces). Go to LaQuan Smith for any of your glam/sexy outfit needs, please! 

Website: laquansmith.com

BROTHER VELLIES

Founder Aurora James creates truly one-of-a-kind shoes (please look at this pair of mesh boots topped with feathers) and small leather goods that are handmade by artisans around the world.

Website: brothervellies.com

CUSHNIE

Designer Carly Cushnie’s sleek styles have been worn by the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Ashley Graham, and Lupita Nyong’o, btw.

Website: cushnie.com

JADE SWIM

Need a swimsuit? You’re going to want one of these pretty, minimal designs by former fashion editor and stylist Brittany Kozerski.

Website: jadeswim.com

CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS

The 26-year-old designer from Louisiana was one of the hottest tickets at New York Fashion Week in February 2020, and high-profile ladies like Michelle Obama and Cardi B. have worn his unique, colorful pieces. Find his clothing exclusively at Net-a-Porter online.

Website: christopherjohnrogers.com

MATEO NEW YORK

Matthew Harris of Mateo New York is a self-taught jewelry designer hailing from Montego Bay, Jamaica, and living in NYC. Shop here for beautifully minimal 14k-gold fine jewelry.

Website: mateonewyork.com

TELFAR

Looking for something truly magical and out there? Consider designer Telfar Clemens, whose hybrid pieces (hello, “sweatpant jeans” and “scarf-collar shirt”) really stand out.

Website: telfar.net

FENTY

DUH.

Website: fenty.com

PYER MOSS

Founded by designer Kerby Jean-Raymond in 2013, Pyer Moss uses its platform for social change, storytelling, and activism as well as art and design. For shopping, come for the bright, matching suits, glam, and pleated gowns and stay for comfy sweats and jeans.

Website: pyermoss.com

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